Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: honkey on January 04, 2012, 12:57:00 am
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I am getting really tired of trying to figure out why my arcade monitor isn't working with my computer. I am not sure at this point if I actually managed to break it, I do know that I blew a fuse, and I do own a 27" CRT TV with component input that is collecting dust that I am considering putting in my cabinet. What do you guys think, is an arcade monitor really that much better than a CRT TV that I should keep up with the frustration until I can get some help?
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Never mind... I am just going to use the TV. I re-looked over Malenko's KI2 and was impressed enough. I guess I need to decase the TV and mount it.
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A CRT TV through component hookup is about the closest thing to an original arcade monitor as you can get.
I can't even imagine going for an arcade monitor unless I could get it for dirt cheap. I know there are some hardcore guys with money to blow that get very picky about the scanlines, but I can't remember what they were like.
Unless you have an original factory built arcade next to your new one, I doubt anyone could tell the difference between a CRT tv through component and an arcade monitor.
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Well, a standard TV and an arcade (15kHz) monitor is basically the same.
The big difference is the electronics (chassis board). The arcade chassis obviously is lacking a tuner and audio options etc. and a lot of other different connectors and so on and you must feed it with a specific signal (RGB+sync). Yes, I know that there can be some difference in quality in the tubes, but there are TV tubes that are as good as the arcade models.
I’m still talking about 15kHz tubes/chassis. Going up is another story, and will not be in my scoop here.
The arcade chassis usually also has a lot more possibilities to conveniently alter the picture geometry with potentiometers for almost anything. That is almost a must, since arcade games has so many different resolutions and frequencies. Changing game will put you in a situation were you need to alter these settings, assuming you want the picture to be fully visible or cover the whole screen.
On a standard TV chassis you are limited and might end up in a situation were your picture is off screen in some parts.
If you are lucky, you might find the way to access the service mode, and these settings can be set in the menus.
I have successfully replaced some arcade monitors in my games with standard TV’s. If you got the right model and to it right nobody would tell the difference.
Having access to the service menus gives me the opportunity to tweak as I want, and I only choose models with RGB SCART connectors. Then the signal can be used unconverted as is (except for lowering the voltages with some resistors). I also put power to one of the SCART pins, that makes the TV start automatically in A/V mode so I don’t have to do anything manually. Just power on and there is picture.
And maybe the biggest advantage of all – the colors will be perfectly tuned from start. Trying to set the RGB signals individually for a perfect match on an arcade chassis board can be a real PITA. Some models are really good, but most sucks IMHO.
So, try to find a SCART TV and just drive it with the VGA (RGB) signal to get a perfect picture. There are, as said before, many examples of people having a good picture with component and S-VHS signals as well. But then it really depends on the quality of hardware involved.
But hey, I’m nearly 40 and would probably not see the difference in that many cases…
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SCART doesnt really exist in the USA. TV with component input look good enough for me
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Well, a standard TV and an arcade (15kHz) monitor is basically the same.
The big difference is the electronics (chassis board). The arcade chassis obviously is lacking a tuner and audio options etc. and a lot of other different connectors and so on and you must feed it with a specific signal (RGB+sync). Yes, I know that there can be some difference in quality in the tubes, but there are TV tubes that are as good as the arcade models.
I’m still talking about 15kHz tubes/chassis. Going up is another story, and will not be in my scoop here.
The arcade chassis usually also has a lot more possibilities to conveniently alter the picture geometry with potentiometers for almost anything. That is almost a must, since arcade games has so many different resolutions and frequencies. Changing game will put you in a situation were you need to alter these settings, assuming you want the picture to be fully visible or cover the whole screen.
On a standard TV chassis you are limited and might end up in a situation were your picture is off screen in some parts.
If you are lucky, you might find the way to access the service mode, and these settings can be set in the menus.
I have successfully replaced some arcade monitors in my games with standard TV’s. If you got the right model and to it right nobody would tell the difference.
Having access to the service menus gives me the opportunity to tweak as I want, and I only choose models with RGB SCART connectors. Then the signal can be used unconverted as is (except for lowering the voltages with some resistors). I also put power to one of the SCART pins, that makes the TV start automatically in A/V mode so I don’t have to do anything manually. Just power on and there is picture.
And maybe the biggest advantage of all – the colors will be perfectly tuned from start. Trying to set the RGB signals individually for a perfect match on an arcade chassis board can be a real PITA. Some models are really good, but most sucks IMHO.
So, try to find a SCART TV and just drive it with the VGA (RGB) signal to get a perfect picture. There are, as said before, many examples of people having a good picture with component and S-VHS signals as well. But then it really depends on the quality of hardware involved.
But hey, I’m nearly 40 and would probably not see the difference in that many cases…
Useful info, are you UK based then?
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I'm using TVs too. I just picked up 2x25" TVs for $15 (total) from Good Will last night. I went there armed with a tape measure and my IPod video with the video cable to test the pictures. It was a fun time.
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I made a trade with a guy in the area. He took the 25 inch monitor and in return he helped me mount the TV last night. Sounds like he put the monitor into an Ultimate MK3 and was pleased with it. My 27 inch tv looks great in the cab. Now I need a video card and my cab is done. :cheers:
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Useful info, are you UK based then?
Thanks. No, I'm in Sweden.