Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: pmc on September 19, 2003, 12:28:44 am
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I wasn't expecting much complexity in a coin door. I was wrong! I got a Williams door. I'll try to attach a pic of the back. The wires have been cut so I'm not sure how it was originally wired or what each contact is for. Can someone steer me to a wiring diagram? I'd prefer not to accidentally fry my IPAC while experimenting!
I have 3 test buttons (high-score, auto/manual, and advance). Each has six contacts. The auto/manual switch is a two-position switch while the other two are momentary.
Each of the coin drop switches have three contacts (accept, reject, and ground?). I assume that I wire "accept" to the IPAC and code for "5" and "6" and I'm pretty much done. True?
The lights have two contacts.
There appears to be a small magnet on a 1/4" vertical and thin strip of steel. Tilt mechanism? It has two contacts.
The harness appears to be ready for an additional middle coin slot so there are probably unused wires but I'm not certain.
The door has a dead-ended grounding strap.
The harness terminates in a 13-pin (but 15-socket) Molex type connector.
I assume I can wire directly to the IPAC. And I guess I need a power source for the lights (DC?)? I read I can pull that power right from my PC power supply.
I have one plastic mech that seems to want to reject most of the time. I'll have to persuade that one. I have one "CoinMech Inc" metal mech that works really well.
If the attachment didn't work, this link may be valid for a another week or more:
http://www.emscoelectric.com/ebay/0901/defendercoindoorback.jpg (http://www.emscoelectric.com/ebay/0901/defendercoindoorback.jpg)
Thanks for any pointers you may have.
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Skip everything else, and just wire the coin switches to your I-Pac. The exact way you just described.
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Skip everything else, and just wire the coin switches to your I-Pac. The exact way you just described.
Roger that. I can do that quickly and easily. But which contact is which? I haven't looked for embossed labels on the switches yet, but the existing wiring is strange and I can't draw any conclusions from it. I assume I need to ground the switch to the common ground terminal on the IPAC.
Thanks for the quick reply. I'll do some testing tomorrow.
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Just chop out all the existing wires. Lord knows who did what to it in the past.
One of the connections on the coin switches is ground. The other 2 connections on the switch have got to be normally open and normally closed. Normally open is the one that the other wire goes to. If you have a multimeter then you can test it, otherwise you can just check it with the I-Pac, you won't fry anything doing that.