Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: ids on August 16, 2011, 05:14:15 pm
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I did the "top mount joystick" search, read a pile of threads, and not happy with what I've found so far - not that the solutions are bad (some are really quite good), I'm just looking for something else.
The issue, as I see it, is after routing and mounting, you are going to have to deal with either bolt heads or some other reason to apply bondo, or throw another layer of wood over it all; for example:
(http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/mounting_layering/s_top_double_routed.png)
In the above image, you could forgo the top layer and just bondo the gaps. Either way, I have yet to find a solution that speaks to me.
So I got to thinking (that's the smoke you smell)...
what if you were to thread the holes in the joystick mounting plate, then using a bolt with head removed (or threaded rod, etc) and some J-B Weld (or similar), inserting said bolt so it sits flush with the top of the mounting plate and is "glued" in solid. Seems at this point you could drive a few holes into the CP and use nuts to hold it all down. It would be perfectly flush (ok, maybe not 100% perfect, and maybe a little bit of the bondo to tidy things up, but that's still ok w/ me)
iirc, I think I saw here someone weld such a thing. This kind of solution speaks to me. I can't weld, and imagine getting it done would be cost prohibitive. But cutting the head off a bolt and threading some holes, that sounds more affordable and in my naive world view should do the trick just fine.
Advice? Mockery? Links to existing products which make all this unnecessary?
thx
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Something like Pixelhugger's use on Mission Control (post in the 1500's) for his rocket medallions?
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I used a countersink bit like this (http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202070838/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053 (http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202070838/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053)) on my u360 mounting plates which let my wood screws sit perfectly flush with the mounting plate. Just go slowly so that you dont wind up making the hole too big.
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Or the kit available from ultimarc? I ordered them then found my control panel predrilled including bolts for joystick!
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I used a countersink bit like this (http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202070838/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053 (http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202070838/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053)) on my u360 mounting plates which let my wood screws sit perfectly flush with the mounting plate. Just go slowly so that you dont wind up making the hole too big.
Yup, I did the same thing, worked perfect, and that way you have no bolt or screw heads sticking up above the mounting plate.
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^^^^ this. You probably would still want a wood overlay though do that your Stuka don't sit too high if you have sticks meant for wood panels. Plus you would want to cover the joystick plates. They are ugly
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afaik, the Ultimarc kit is for bottom mounting - a good solution in that regard. The round bolt-heads are something I'd prefer not to have sticking above my CP.
The countersink option I had seen, but was concerned about the precision needed. Sounds like a good option, however, and I think I will try it with at least one stick to see how it goes. Routing a recess for the plate itself also requires a degree of precision, so the countersink can't be much more difficult (famous last words?)
As for overlay - yes, something is needed. I'd prefer something from Game on Graphics, but a thin piece of hardboard, veneer, laminate, etc would also work. If the stick is high and meant for undermounting, then undermounting is probably the best thing to do. I've tried mine both ways in test CP's and am leaning towards top-mount. (These are U360's with standard length shaft)
thx for all the feedback