Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: rackoon on May 29, 2011, 04:42:58 pm
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What the deal! ???
I'm building my third cab and its going to be a dedicated stargate cab. Why? because its the only game I cant master, this drives me insane!
Whats the deal with getting a proper joystick? I cant find a full unit, just parts for sale. I'm OK with this but they are wicked expensive. :dunno
Yes, I did a forum search, goggle search, and eBay search, and came up short. :angry:
Are they rare because I'm the only guy on the planet that's intrigued by the challenge and difficulty of this game? Am I the only guy on the planet that, as a kid, watched with a crowed in amazement, some guy in a smokey bowling ally just kick ass at this game like a ninja? I always thought that someday, when I get enough quarters, I too will be a stargate ninja. Well the eighties are gone, but now I got all the quarters I need, what the hell! :soapbox:
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I almost want to tell you "Do a search noob!", but that doesn't fit for you (nice to see you -- haven't seen you post in a while!).
So, here ...
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=111354.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=111354.0)
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So, I guess I'm not alone ;D
Thanks for the heads up cheffojeffo, I guess I didnt search in the right area. I didnt see that theread in the results. I PM the seller, maybe he has some left. :applaud:
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Arcadeshop....yes expensive....but you only live once!
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So, I guess I'm not alone ;D
Thanks for the heads up cheffojeffo, I guess I didnt search in the right area. I didnt see that theread in the results. I PM the seller, maybe he has some left. :applaud:
I have about a dozen of them I collected over the years and came up with an idea on how to correct the slop that develops in them over time using special inserts I designed.
But here is a cool looking repro I know nothing about:
http://www.arcadeshop.de/Joysticks-2-Way-Williams-Reprostick_1034.html (http://www.arcadeshop.de/Joysticks-2-Way-Williams-Reprostick_1034.html)
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
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I have read a lot about the slop that develops in these things, but just look at them, they are made of metal. What goes bad? :dunno
Is it that the metal dents or wares down? :P
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Is it that the metal dents or wares wears down? :P
Yes.
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I have read a lot about the slop that develops in these things, but just look at them, they are made of metal. What goes bad? :dunno
Is it that the metal dents or wares down? :P
The top pic shows the difference between a decent and a worn stick assembly.
And the hole at the top where the joystick goes through can also become worn as well.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
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Wow nice pics. :o
Thanks I get it now. They simply file themselves down from rubbing together.
Does anyone know why they went through the trouble to make such beast of a stick. Seems like they could have just used a four or eight way and put a restrict or on it. :dunno
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Wow nice pics. :o
Thanks I get it now. They simply file themselves down from rubbing together.
Does anyone know why they went through the trouble to make such beast of a stick. Seems like they could have just used a four or eight way and put a restrict or on it. :dunno
Perhaps because the sticks need to be lower than what was normal so one could easily manipulate the reverse button. Also since the reverse button needed to be very close to the stick the base on the under side of the CP needed to be small so as not to get in the way.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
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I've used the repro stick linked to above from Arcadeshop.de in my Defender bartop. Yes it's expensive... but it's all steel and it plays great. The balltop is a 6mm standard thread so you can put on any other standard type. If anyone does buy this be warned that the standard issue ball top is quite small (30mm) and a matt red. I luckily ordered a Sanwa 35mm balltop to match the buttons I was using and it turned out to be a good idea.
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For real worn pivots like that you could always source some bronze sleeve bearings that fit the center shaft and enlarge the hole in the frame to fit the OD of the bearing.
20 Years ago I did that as well as shimmed the shaft so there was no slop in the square block it goes into. I also used a flat spring steel centering spring to return it to exact center (it rode against the square part). It felt really nice....