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Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: john_mame on August 30, 2003, 03:45:28 pm

Title: coin door restoration help
Post by: john_mame on August 30, 2003, 03:45:28 pm
Hello Everyone!

I recently started my first cabinet, and have run into a situation I need some help with.

I recently bought a coin door with the hopes of restoring it, but I can't decipher from the Happ site what parts I'll need.

Here are a couple of pictures of the door I'm working on.
WARNING - These pictures are large and hi res so dialup users beware.

Front - www.thenote.com/coin-front.jpg (http://www.thenote.com/coin-front.jpg)
Innards - www.thenote.com/coin-back1.jpg (http://www.thenote.com/coin-back1.jpg)

Basically, the wires are scary brittle and everything else is too bent, broken, or corroded to be useful (including the microswitch), so everything needs to be replaced.

I'm having a hard time figuring out what I need to buy to replace it.
Is there some kind of drop in type assembly I can get, complete with coin return button, coin mech, switch, wiring, etc; or do I need to buy everything piece by piece?

If its piece by piece, would anyone be so kind as to point me in the right direction on which pieces I need to get?

I'm hoping to replace everything except the doors, frame and coin box.

Here are some pictures of my work in progress for anyone whos interested.
Nothing spectacular, just another Lusid plan cabinet.

www.thenote.com/a1.jpg (http://www.thenote.com/a1.jpg)
www.thenote.com/a2.jpg (http://www.thenote.com/a2.jpg)


Thanks!

Title: Re:coin door restoration help
Post by: SirPeale on August 30, 2003, 09:58:14 pm
I've restored a metric ton of coin doors lately, and I can tell you that the door you have is in fine shape.  No, really.

First, remove all the parts you've got, and completely disassemble the door.  This includes the doors from the frame.  Put all the parts into a container of some sort.  

Get yourself some fine grade steel wool.  Start scrubbing all the metal parts to get the corrosion off.  Feel the parts with your fingertips to find the remaining corrosion.

Next, get yourself a scrub brush.  Wash these parts with dish detergent and scrub well.  Then rinse well, make sure to get all the detergent off.

Once the parts are dry, take some gold spray paint and LIGHTLY spray these pieces.  I like to bake them in the oven at 200 degrees for about 1/2 hour.  Let cool, finish off the other sides and repeat.

As for the door itself, get yourself some paint stripper.  I bought a gallon, and it goes a long, long way.  Coat the door liberally with it (depending on the stripper, read the directions) and wait for it to bubble off.  Use a wire brush, and brush the coating off.  You may have to repeat this.

You'll probably want to wash the remover off the door, as it's highly toxic.  I don't know if you have a rotary tool, but using a polishing stone is great for removing rust.  You can also use a wire wheel, or any other mechanical method of removing rust.  You can use Naval Jelly, but I don't recommend it.

After you've removed the rust, scrub the door and frame with your brush and detergent, and wash until all traces of detergent are gone.

If you haven't already done so, get some Rust-oleum texture paint, and some Rust-oleum satin paint.  Paint the backs first with the satin.  LIGHT COATS.  Wait a couple minutes, and give it another LIGHT coat.  In the oven for 1/2 hour.  Wait until cool, then repeat for the front, except use the texture paint.  Do the parts SEPARATELY.  Don't assemble them for a short cut, it'll look like crap.

For the sides of the door, you should also do them with the satin paint.  If you do it with the texture, it'll build up, and you won't be able to open or close your door easily.

I note that your door has silver insert pieces.  These are easy to  do, as all they require are a good cleaning.  You might want to follow up with a polishing wheel to restore shine.

As for the red coin rejects, I can't tell how bad they are as they're still in their housing.  If they're not broken or badly scratched, scrub with an old toothbrush and detergent.  If they are, those are available from Happs.

That's pretty much it; reassemble and you have a nice restored door.

If you have any questions, feel free to post here.
Title: Re:coin door restoration help
Post by: megabyte40000 on September 02, 2003, 03:14:26 pm
This is a Japanese-made Coin Controls coin door. I never liked these things. The red coin return button shafts were always breaking. They made improvements later but that won't help your door any. I would suggest talking to the operators in your area (Operators operate coin-op equipment as a business....look in the yellow pages under amusements). Most operators are notorious packrats and may have either a beter quality door you can use or a coin controls door you can steal parts off of cheap.


-Megabyte
Title: Re:coin door restoration help
Post by: SirPeale on September 02, 2003, 04:48:04 pm
He could do that, but there's nothing wrong with the door he has.  In fact, here's an open invitation.  I'll fix that door, for $25.  It'll look far, far better when you get it back.  Of course, you'll have to pay shipping to and from me, so that'll be pricey, but it'll be sweet looking.
Title: Re:coin door restoration help
Post by: paigeoliver on September 03, 2003, 07:15:05 am
Yeah, nothing wrong with that door at all, that a little cleaning, paint, a pair of mechs (which seem to be missing), and a bit of rewiring and new locks won't fix. I fixed up a much worse one just like that a while back.

Of course I then promptly traded the game it was on off, totally forgetting the fact that I had 3 other games with the same door, all of which were now in worse condition than the one I just traded.
Title: Re:coin door restoration help
Post by: Ken Layton on November 02, 2003, 01:40:52 am
Actually that coin door is an Asahi Seiko brand that was at one time distributed in the USA by Coin Controls. Here is a link to the current version of your door: www.asusainc.com/html/coin_doornadsd.html and it uses the model AD-81P coin selector (acceptor).