Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Woodworking => Topic started by: emb on May 01, 2011, 11:32:33 pm
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After discussing my hobby with my wife, I got pushed into doing an oak mame cabinet.
Has anyone built an oak (or any other type of hardwood) mame cabinet without using screws to hold it together while the glue dries? I don't want to ugly up the side panels with filler from screws. I do have a router, although I do not want to go and buy a biscuit cutter...the wife gave me a budget.
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i'd use pocket screws and very little, if any, glue. the kreg pocket screw kit is a handy little tool to have on hand. stain the project prior to assembly as glue can leave ugly discoloration if you're not too careful.
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I agree with the kreg jig. I was a doubter at first because I am using laminated particle board for my build. However once you get the depth and everything on the Kreg set, it's just an awesome tool to use.
One thing I would caution however is that you use a scrap piece to set the width of the larger panels and clamp it while screwing. I have found if I just hold a piece and screw it in, it will drift about 1/16" in the direction of the pocket. Since you won't be doing a dado on the longer pieces, you have to make sure you set these evenly to keep the box square and/or from warping.
A few folks have made very nice cabinets out of 3/4" plywood with Birchwood facing. You can stain this pretty nice if you know what you're doing.
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You could look and see how Wilno45 is doing his. Very nice.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=97914.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=97914.0)
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You could look and see how Wilno45 is doing his. Very nice.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=97914.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=97914.0)
Whew! That looks like a lot of work!
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Are you asking about a 90o corner joint or a flat jointing of 2 boards to form a wider board? Ie for the sides of the cab? You don't need screws anywhere for anything if you are using all hardwood.
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You could look and see how Wilno45 is doing his. Very nice.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=97914.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=97914.0)
Whew! That looks like a lot of work!
Make sure you read up on why grain direction is an important consideration when joining hardwood. As well as average humidity levels where you are. Especially if your hardwood source is out of your area.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
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It can certainly be done, If you really want to go furniture grade, I'd start looking into joinery techniques. Biscuits, sure, but there's mortise-tenon, rabbits, daddos, dovetails, pins, etc etc.
Look for some contrasting wood types to accentuate the joins instead of hiding them.
And finally, if you're going for a full size, traditional looking arcade cab, I'd consider some sort of cabinet panel treatment for the sides and front. Going straight flat panels is fine for all black arcade cabs (or those with lots of artwork on them), but to me, that just seems like a little too much woodgrain without something to break it up. (that's why I like Wilno's cab +alot+!)
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Are you asking about a 90o corner joint or a flat jointing of 2 boards to form a wider board? Ie for the sides of the cab? You don't need screws anywhere for anything if you are using all hardwood.
I was initially thinking that i would join the corners of each panel together with some 2x2 boards.
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For the corners there are a number of joinery techniques you can use but really just glue and clamping is sufficient. When the glue dries it will be stronger than the wood so there's no need for screws at all. You could use some cleats along the joint, 2x2 is overkill, 1x1 is more than enough, even just 1/2x1/2 would be fine, you're just looking for something to help you clamp and keep the joint square while it dries. You'll need a lot of really long clamps for this one. :)
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Glue and clamps, glue and clamps!
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you're just looking for something to help you clamp and keep the joint square while it dries. You'll need a lot of really long clamps for this one. :)
That's why I suggested the Kreg pocket jig. Unless you have another use for the 10 or so clamps you'll be buying at $10-$20 a piece, it just isn't worth the cost when you can pick up a Kreg mini for ~$20.
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you're just looking for something to help you clamp and keep the joint square while it dries. You'll need a lot of really long clamps for this one. :)
That's why I suggested the Kreg pocket jig. Unless you have another use for the 10 or so clamps you'll be buying at $10-$20 a piece, it just isn't worth the cost when you can pick up a Kreg mini for ~$20.
That makes a lot of sense. I think i might go the kreg jig route. Thanks DNA Dan!
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That's why I suggested the Kreg pocket jig. Unless you have another use for the 10 or so clamps you'll be buying at $10-$20 a piece, it just isn't worth the cost when you can pick up a Kreg mini for ~$20.
Kreg mini doesn't include any screws so its not only $20. Get clamps from harbor freight, you can get a 24" bar clamp for $5 regular price. If you need longer you can get them as well. Clamps will be cheaper in the long run.
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That's why I suggested the Kreg pocket jig. Unless you have another use for the 10 or so clamps you'll be buying at $10-$20 a piece, it just isn't worth the cost when you can pick up a Kreg mini for ~$20.
Kreg mini doesn't include any screws so its not only $20. Get clamps from harbor freight, you can get a 24" bar clamp for $5 regular price. If you need longer you can get them as well. Clamps will be cheaper in the long run.
Wow, that is cheap. If I am to use clamps I'll need the 30 inch clamps for 8 bucks. I'm guessing I'd need 3 clamps?
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Depends how long your glue ups are. You want as many as you can get on there. The Kreg really might be cheaper if you have no clamps at all. Personally I don't like screw holes so I try to do without whenever possible.
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Ahh yes the screws... Looking over receipts of what I paid, I think it came to about $40 with the mini and some screws. You can use a regular vice grip clamp to hold it. The thing I like about the kreg mini is it's a very versatile tool. So is a clamp however, so you need to think about the kinds of things you do around the house and/or work on.
The deal with clamps is this, while you're tightening them down if you only bought three of them then the panel seems to be not seated in a certain spot, you're going to want to reach for another one. If you did not anticipate having enough on hand to begin with, then you have to stop and drive to a store. With the kreg, if it's not seated, you just take it apart and drill another screw there. Basically you have 500 little clamps in the box called screws. Don't get me wrong, I like clamps and used them on some parts of my project as well. I actually used both methods, but you need to have enough clamps on hand to do the job, especially if you have no "plan B" in your shop". Glue can set up fairly fast. For the larger side panels, I wouldn't go with anything less than ~5 clamps.