Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: Jefferson on April 27, 2011, 09:55:24 pm
-
I'm thinking of starting my 2nd cab, a cocktail this time. I'm tempted to order the metal control panels at the same time to consolidate shipping charges, but I dont know how I'd drill them myself. I assume a forstner bit won't do the job? They do offer to drill it up, but I want to order without deciding what the CP will look like at this point! Do they make bits to drill 1 1/8 holes in metal with a power drill? I'd like to not buy a bunch of new tools this time around...
the CP in question:
http://www.arcadedepot.com/HTML/control_panels.html (http://www.arcadedepot.com/HTML/control_panels.html)
-
You could use a hole saw to drill your holes. But if I were you, I would figure out your layout and just have them cut the holes.
-
Don't take this the wrong way, but if you're asking this question, consider Nephasths good advice and have them punch the holes, or take it to a local sheet metal shop. They will probably punch all you want for $15 or so while you wait. If you use a hole saw get a good one and make sure it's sharp.
-
Hm alright, thanks for the advice. I know the basic layout.
Do people generally figure out the art first or second? I figure its cheaper to do multiple drafts of the art overlay. I just need to learn a bit of illustrator to come up with something like this guys custom ms pac graphics... beautiful:
http://www.youtube.com/user/basicmicro#p/u/5/esQJD903oyo (http://www.youtube.com/user/basicmicro#p/u/5/esQJD903oyo)
-
I drilled mine a little while ago using a 1 1/8 bi-metal hole saw. It was easy just really time consuming. What I did was lay out my design on a piece of mdf and then drilled some tiny pilot holes. I then clamped the mdf to the metal and then drilled the pilot holes through the metal. And finally, from the back side of the control panel [in case the drill slipped and I scratched anything], I drilled through using the hole saw. I still have to drill my trackball hole but it's looking pretty good.
(http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/179864_10150387110240246_895055245_17183888_6599132_n.jpg)
-
I used a bi-metal hole saw on my aluminum panel. Worked awesome. I used a center punch first though to make drilling the pilot holes easy.
-
Design your layout, then design art around that. Visuals are secondary to function.
Regarding the cutting metal, I plan on using a step drill bit (http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW1789-8-Inch-2-Inch-Conduit/dp/accessories/B0001LQYYY (http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW1789-8-Inch-2-Inch-Conduit/dp/accessories/B0001LQYYY)) and bi-metal hole saw to make the holes in mine once I get my art and layouts finalized (need to finalize actual placements so it's physically possible - with mounting plates and button nuts, to get things into the CP).
Oh - big thing - I'm using a drill press for ALL of the hole cutting.
-
Harbor Freight has a step bit pretty cheap.
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-titanium-nitride-coated-high-speed-steel-step-drills-96275.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-titanium-nitride-coated-high-speed-steel-step-drills-96275.html)
$15 gets you 2 different sizes.
I've used it drilling a metal CP for a Rally X cocktail and even brought it to work. I drilled through an industrial roof top unit with no problem. Much thicker steel than you would ever find in an arcade cab. I'm sure the dewalt will last much longer (Greenlee also has a nice one) but if you are only drilling one control panel I'd buy the Harbor Freight one.
Wear gloves and glasses. I got a nasty infection once from a metal splinter that landed me in the ER.
Here is a nice tool to mark your holes.
http://www.harborfreight.com/spring-loaded-center-punch-621.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/spring-loaded-center-punch-621.html)
Good luck!
-
Bob Roberts swears by step drills and said that that is all he's ever used to drill holes in control panels since the classic game area.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
-
Holesaw will do the trick, just dont rush it or push hard, take your time and let it cut slowly
Im about to mame my new cocktail cab, looking forward to it when I stop crying about gutting a classic piece of arcade history
-
+1 for Harbor Freight step bits. They don't last very long, but they're cheap, and they cut through sheet metal nicely. Plus they don't wobble around like a regular bit, they act much more like a milling bit.
Just run your drill press a little slower.
-
Question on this I was thinking about yesterday - the 1-1/8" hole saws, the dimension is outer diameter, right? (i.e., including the saw's width itself)
-
Correct, and with a hole saw its easier to hog it out to a slightly larger dimension, it will not be smaller however.
-
I have cut metal with a bi metal hole saw on a cordless drill before and used cutting oil to help with the process. Makes a big difference with the oil. I noticed no one mentioned the cutting oil so i figured i would throw in my two cents. I hope it helps.
I am also building a cocktail table too but i ordered my control panel pre done. They are made out of metal seeing I know my kids will be beating them to hell so I didn't want to make the CP out of wood.
I am going to make a build page one of these days if I can get around to it.
I didn't know Arcade Depot was still in biz. I emailed them a few times to order the kit from them but they never got back to me. I know they are in NJ and was asking them if I could pick up to save on shipping. Maybe they knew who i am didn't want me near their place of biz :laugh2: