Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: crashwg on April 24, 2011, 11:09:04 am
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I've got a couple small projects in the planning stages that won't have much room under the control panel so I was wondering what joysticks require the least amount of space. Any information is appreciated even for joys that are out of production.
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I've got a couple small projects in the planning stages that won't have much room under the control panel so I was wondering what joysticks require the least amount of space. Any information is appreciated even for joys that are out of production.
Shallowest depth, smallest footprint or both? All around smallest I have seen is our "Spitfire" stick. (http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=370)
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This is what I did for a flightstick
http://www.willcoxonline.com/mame/controlpanel/controlpanel.htm (http://www.willcoxonline.com/mame/controlpanel/controlpanel.htm)
The joystick takes up about a halfdollar sized hole on your panel
If you really meant joystick a normal arcade one doesnt take up much does it?
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When you say taking up the smallest space, what exactly do you mean? Are you talking about the depth under the control panel... or the footprint the joystick plate takes up? The footprint can be awkward if you want to put button(s) very close to the stick. (For example Reverse button for Defender)
Seimitsu LS33 is quite small certainly for the mounting plate.
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What I'm looking for is shortest depth under the CP not the footprint. Sorry for the confusion. The size of the mounting plate is not something I'm worried about.
All around smallest I have seen is our "Spitfire" stick. (http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=370)
That looks like a great option, I especially like the "Ruby Gemstone" ball option!
Could you provide the dimensions in this picture? It would help my designing process.
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@Smeghead
Nice panel! I also went by the supercade project, but yours has a bit more thought in it that mine (for instance, my top isn't hinged, ugh!)
I like the way that joystick mounted
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Shown here are, from left to right,
JLF (http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/12-sanwa-jlf-tp-8yt-joystick.html)(a/b=1.42"/1.12"), Fight Stick 1(AKA Spitfire) (http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/18-fight-stick-with-187-tab-connectors-8-way.html)(1.42"/1.10"), Seimitsu LS-56 (http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/241-seimetsu-ls-32.html)(1.52"/1.11", smallest foot print by far), Sanwa JLW (http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/104-sanwa-jlw-tm-8-joystick.html)(1.48"/1.25") (If you can afford the extra 1/16" space this joystick is awsesome bat or ball top), Seimitsu LS-40 (http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/343-seimitsu-ls-40-01-arcade-joystick-black.html)(1.62"/1.41"), and the Zippyy (http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/45-classic-arcade-stick-zippy-long.html)(same dims as an LS-32 (http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/5-seimetsu-ls-32.html))(1.64"/1.30")
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_MNpQcmrqXBk/TbTMVuM0y1I/AAAAAAAABEQ/q44BCkkFPHs/s720/IMG_6466.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_MNpQcmrqXBk/TbTMbsxwMoI/AAAAAAAABEY/BYtiorJZ0do/s1280/IMG_6467.JPG)
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What I'm looking for is shortest depth under the CP not the footprint. Sorry for the confusion. The size of the mounting plate is not something I'm worried about.
All around smallest I have seen is our "Spitfire" stick. (http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=370)
That looks like a great option, I especially like the "Ruby Gemstone" ball option!
Could you provide the dimensions in this picture? It would help my designing process.
Ignoring the other incorrect measurement of our Spitfire™ stick in this thread, the "A" dimension is 1.4" and the "B" dimension is 1.32". The two dimensions are so close on this model due to the protrusions on the restrictor plate, apparently there to ensure that there is no interference with the shaft when in operation. These posts can be ground down, but the restrictor retainers are just about as tall. Realistically, the "B" dimension doesn't have much importance, as the shaft needs to have clearance to move freely, and there are often other parts and protrusions which make up the body of the joystick below the switch level.
I think the biggest question in my mind is whether you will be mounting in a wood or on a metal panel. Few of the "Japanese-style" sticks are well suited to below panel installation in wood, and as a result, can get much smaller based on the way they are usually mounted. They all get a lot shorter if they end up embedded in the wood, which is pretty much a necessity with this style.
The shallowest stick we sell is the Leaf-Pro™, which has an "A" dimension of 1.285", a "B" of 1.1", and it's a very good leaf switch stick. Again, in wood, this should be mounted recessed from the underside to provide a reasonable shaft length, which would leave no more than ~ 3/4" below the underside of the panel.
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@Armi0024, thanks for your joystick comparisons. It's really helped me decide ona small stick for my project (Seimitsu LS-56)
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@corbo, no problem, and the LS-56 does have octagon gates available.
Personally for undermount quality, feel, flexibility and minimal depth I would go with the JLW, for a few extra dollars you are getting 10x the stick.
If you are going to recess, I would go with an LS-32-01, they come with a plate that is very well designed for a 1/4 recess while providing a flange so you can undermount into 3/4 wood.
However, form factors are important, let me know if you need any more dimensions and I'll be happy to measure them for you.
I will clarify a few things:
Ignoring the other incorrect measurement of our Spitfire™ stick in this thread,
"our Spitfire™" joystick is one that has been offered by at least 4 other vendors for over a year. The Fight Stick 1 and Fight stick 2 are the same stick with a PCB for micros that we have been selling since March of last year. The name is really cool, but this is a generic stick.
The two dimensions are so close on this model due to the protrusions on the restrictor plate, apparently there to ensure that there is no interference with the shaft when in operation. These posts can be ground down, but the restrictor retainers are just about as tall. Realistically, the "B" dimension doesn't have much importance, as the shaft needs to have clearance to move freely, and there are often other parts and protrusions which make up the body of the joystick below the switch level.
This is an interesting theory, however if you look at the Sanwa stick (a stick we also carry), which this is a copy off, the tabs near are used a retainer for the 4/8 way restrictor ring, to lock it in and allow you to turn it. While they may serve a dual purpose, my guess is that they are probably just trying to imitate the original for cheap. Some people tried to sell these sticks early on as Sanwa's and as 4/8 way switchable, but they are are neither. These aren't bad little sticks, and actually these sticks with an octogate restrictor is a great solution to have 8 way and 4 way games play really well without changing the restrictor.
I think the biggest question in my mind is whether you will be mounting in a wood or on a metal panel. Few of the "Japanese-style" sticks are well suited to below panel installation in wood, and as a result, can get much smaller based on the way they are usually mounted. They all get a lot shorter if they end up embedded in the wood, which is pretty much a necessity with this style.
This is a great point and actually the Seimtsu SS mounting plate allows you to do this while providing a flange so your mounting bolts can go into 3/4 wood. This is nice if you want to avoid through holes and doesn't bolt into the thinner and weaker recessed section. These mounting plates can be put onto Zippyy or Seimitsu brand joysticks, both of which will take 6mm threading.
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The name is really cool, but this is a generic stick.
By time it's mated with our own switches, dust washers, knobs, and likely in the future, shafts, as well as being modified for the option of the octagonal restrictor, it's no longer "generic". If you want to reference your own products, feel free. Your assistance with ours is not necessary. Thanks anyway.
This is an interesting theory, however if you look at the Sanwa stick (a stick we also carry), which this is a copy off, the tabs near are used a retainer for the 4/8 way restrictor ring, to lock it in and allow you to turn it. While they may serve a dual purpose, my guess is that they are probably just trying to imitate the original for cheap. Some people tried to sell these sticks early on as Sanwa's and as 4/8 way switchable, but they are are neither. These aren't bad little sticks, and actually these sticks with an octogate restrictor is a great solution to have 8 way and 4 way games play really well without changing the restrictor.
Which explains my use of the word "apparently", since these do not have a removable, nor rotatable restrictor, leaving no other explanation for the posts which are there. I was not referring to the Sanwa. And those posts do in fact perform the function I mentioned, whether intended or not, and they add to the depth of the base. Another important fact about these bases is that the octagonal Sanwa restrictors will not go on without modification to the retainers (see above).
RandyT
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I apologize for sidetracking this thread, but let me just make sure we are in complete understanding here:
@Randy: if I take measurements of a stick, I have been selling for a year that is identical to the one you are selling, you don't like that.
However, you thought it was appropriate to jump in a thread asking about a product bought from me specifically that you didn't offer yet, and give them misinformation about the product?
Seriously, let's play nice, this is silly, I gave measurements on a number of products, that's it.
Here is the bottom line, crashwg asked a question about measurements. I answered it and gave a range of options. If anyone else has any questions, please let me know.
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I apologize for sidetracking this thread, but let me just make sure we are in complete understanding here:
@Randy: if I take measurements of a stick, I have been selling for a year that is identical to the one you are selling, you don't like that.
Not when the info you offer is inaccurate, as it was.
However, you thought it was appropriate to jump in a thread asking about a product bought from me specifically that you didn't offer yet, and give them misinformation about the product?
I think you will find upon re-examination that you are remembering the instance incorrectly.
Seriously, let's play nice, this is silly, I gave measurements on a number of products, that's it.
At the same time finding it necessary to mention one of my products by name, while providing incorrect information. Frankly, it's odd that you should expect a different response to doing that.
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Again, measurements were given for a number of joysticks. If anyone has any questions let me know.
I stand by the accuracy of my statements and measurements.
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(http://www.groovygamegear.com/Store_Images/Spitfire Base Depth.jpg)
:dunno
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To clarify the measurements:
So the edge of the plate, B is 1.12, the little tabs that stick up to retain the restrictor plate are 1.25, the arbitrary tabs next to the joystick shaft are 1.32, and the little raised sections in between the two are 1.15, Oh yeah and A is still 1.4
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_MNpQcmrqXBk/TbXjrvbkWcI/AAAAAAAABE4/tjoipoe7c5I/Spitfire%20Base%20Depth.jpg)
The Fight Stick aka Spitfire aka Mr Joystick 8 way aka Taiwan 8 way Joystick aka... Is available in many different places, only one store has tried to label this as unique joystick. As someone once said here if you want to call a generic product "one of "your products" based on the fact that it was purchased from you, then that is your prerogative. But that's not really very accurate either."-RandyT
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Only one of the dimensions was important in the context of the question. Glad to see that you figured out which one it was with the aid of my photo. :cheers:
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Only one of the dimensions was important in the context of the question. Glad to see that you figured out which one it was with the aid of my photo. :cheers:
Only one was important?
Pssst..... you forgot about A, he asked for 2 dimensions, not one.... And the 1.4 is probably a little more important....
My goal was to clarify for anyone else exactly what the dimensions were that were being tossed around. Again as stated, I will stand behind all my statements and measurements. So now that you understand the measurements I'm taking, since I had to diagram them, would you agree with them Randy?
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Only one of the dimensions was important in the context of the question. Glad to see that you figured out which one it was with the aid of my photo. :cheers:
Only one was important?
Pssst..... you forgot about A, he asked for 2 dimensions, not one.... And the 1.4 is probably a little more important....
The question we were discussing...the incorrect "B" dimension you posted attached to our product name. And the "B" dimension can be important, although commonly it is not. With the small amount of travel associated with the bottom of the joystick shaft, in panels where space is very tight, a "button hole" (1 1/8") in the bottom of a panel, centered on the shaft, will allow plenty of clearance for perfect operation. Due to the very small difference in size between the base and the bottom of the shaft on this stick, as I mentioned earlier, this is probably not worth the trouble.
Regardless, I'm glad that it's been cleared up so someone doesn't get disappointed when they go to install their joystick, whether it be a "generic" one or the Spitfire™ from GGG with all of the options and modifications that only we offer.
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If you want the same stick, with options for better microswitches, octagon gates, custom ball tops, custom hollow shafts, 4/8 way switchable gates, and the ability to do a lit ball top.... the only place to get that selection is at Paradise Arcade Shop. (Yeah I know it all falls apart because we don't have a fancy trademarked name or an acryllic dust washer, sorry)
However, as I stated above, this at heart is a knock off stick, it's like buying a Dodge Omni and pimping it out, It's still an Omni.
If foot print doesn't matter, the best stick here and it's close on dimesnions(only 1/16 deeper) is the JLW. It's a great stick and available through us or several other stores. For about 20 you get the JLW with Sanwa micros(very high quality micros), a Sanwa ball top, and a 4/8 way restrictor plate. If you take the "unique" stick offered here add a nicer ball top, micro upgrade, and a different restrictor plate then you are paying the same amount for a cheaper built stick. It's your choice though. We sell both, and I really don't make any more on a JLW than I do on a fight stick, but I would sell a JLW over the Fight Stick any day. I think if you search the forums you will find that opinion reinforced over and over again.
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However, as I stated above, this at heart is a knock off stick, it's like buying a Dodge Omni and pimping it out, It's still an Omni.
Why on earth are you selling these, if you think so poorly of them? Outfitted with a good ball top, some smoother switches and optionally the Sanwa octagonal restrictor, they are a completely different feeling and performing stick from the stock version. But even the stock version is fine for those looking for only the basics.
Any other of your store items you would like to publicly denigrate? :dizzy:
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However, as I stated above, this at heart is a knock off stick, it's like buying a Dodge Omni and pimping it out, It's still an Omni.
It's like selling a SUZO 500 and calling it an Omni-Stik? Oh, wait... :laugh2:
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However, as I stated above, this at heart is a knock off stick, it's like buying a Dodge Omni and pimping it out, It's still an Omni.
It's like selling a SUZO 500 and calling it an Omni-Stik? Oh, wait... :laugh2:
That...was...awesome.....How did I miss that set-up? :) Omni-Stik 2 is coming soon too, but it's based on an existing item and given added functionality targeted especially for this community. So I guess I shouldn't bother.....or maybe it's ok so long as I only call it "Taiwan Joystick Eleventy4™".
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I have not read every word of this thread so I am not sure if these would work for you or not. I found some small joysticks at Digikey. The are not for arcades but they could work and they seem very small. They have pots not swiches but that could be changed if needed.
If you search Joystick and then check the box for instock items only you get about 20 to look at. These are the smallest.
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=254SA103B50A-ND (http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=254SA103B50A-ND)
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=254SA103B50B-ND (http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=254SA103B50B-ND)
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=252A103B60NA-ND (http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=252A103B60NA-ND)
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Stan thanks for recentering.
@Randy it's not even worth the discussion, it's going no where.
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I have not read every word of this thread so I am not sure if these would work for you or not. I found some small joysticks at Digikey. The are not for arcades but they could work and they seem very small. They have pots not swiches but that could be changed if needed.
These are quarter sized PCB mount assemblies. They are intended for gamepad-like applications, and are very similar to the ones used in console thumbstick gaming controls. Neat little devices, but probably not what the OP was looking for.