Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: unclet on August 26, 2003, 05:01:47 pm
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If I have to disconnect my driving control panel assembly from being mounted on my cabinet, then I want to be able to simply disconnect a "connector" and take the assembly off. Basically, I want to be able to disconnect all the wiring running to my gamepad hacks by simply unplugging a connector.
What are these things officially called and where can I get them? I would like to be able to fit a lot of wires into one connector so the bigger the better....thanks
UncleT
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50pin scsi cable and port works well--you can hide it under the controls while they're on the panel--its also tidy looking.
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search for molex connectors...
there should be quite a few threads about this....
printer cable holds a lot... (I think a kind of it is called centronix.... the centronix cables has no pins... so, no mess up....)
some other people uses those IDE cables....
I myself uses cat5.... (only 8 wires....) but uses a bunch....
(also fool proof.... and I have it lying around... free for me...)
I remember there is even a thread when people are going all the way.... for swappable panels....
where the panel doesn't need to be plugged in....
just lay the panel, click it in, and its automatically connected..
you know.... those like you rest your cell phone on those better table charger (no need to plug) and it make the connection.....
but its a few old threads.... I'll try a search......
will post if I find something.....
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You could also use Parallel extension cables... 25 wires...
Cut it in half & the plug ends will plug into each other...
If you want up to 36 you could use something like the one at the bottom of this page (http://www.amabilidade2002.com/computer4.htm)...
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I've never understood why you guys don't use jamma+ connectors? Is there a problem with doing this?
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I've never understood why you guys don't use jamma+ connectors? Is there a problem with doing this?
The fingerboard. The harness is easy, the fingerboard NOT attached to a pcb is a little tougher to find.
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http://www.arcadeshop.com/pics/jamma-finger-a.jpg
Doesn't seem very hard to me?
And pretty cheap to at $2.
This has got to be the best way to connect a control panel if you are looking at swapping.
http://www.arcadeshop.com/parts.htm
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http://www.arcadeshop.com/pics/jamma-finger-a.jpg
Doesn't seem very hard to me?
And pretty cheap to at $2.
This has got to be the best way to connect a control panel if you are looking at swapping.
http://www.arcadeshop.com/parts.htm
I would prefer Molex connectors I think - they are widely used on real arcade control panels too :)
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I forgot: www.molex.com
Good luck finding what you want!
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http://www.arcadeshop.com/pics/jamma-finger-a.jpg
Doesn't seem very hard to me?
And pretty cheap to at $2.
This has got to be the best way to connect a control panel if you are looking at swapping.
http://www.arcadeshop.com/parts.htm
Ok, got me there. But now, you know wireing that is a pain, especially for the people who can't hold a steady solder gun. many molex and db25 connectors are crimpons.
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Yes true, it is a soldering nightmare ( it's a swimming goggles and gas mask job lol )
IMHO it is still the best way to set up swappable panels and once it's done you will be an expert solderer ;)
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I still like my db25. one, it is small! To take my control panel off all I need to do is unhook the db25, the usb trackball, the usb spinner, and the db9 for the trackball buttons and relay. I don't need the db9 unless I want mouse buttons.
If you can make the driving controls USB (with a dual strike or joystick hack) that would be great. Then it's just unplugging a usb connector. That's part of the reason for the usb connectors on my control panel. When I get around to making 360 steering wheels they will just plug in there.
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I am going to use IDE. IDE cable comes from the control panel and then plugs into an ide socket. Pulled the socket off an old raid card. Was the best choice for me based solely on the number of wires, 40 as opposed to like 8 with cat 5. Plus, I had plenty of these lying around. Although the soldering was hell.
- Cobelli
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Go for the smaller variety of Molex plugs. My large-pin ones are kinda tough to use. hey, maybe they'll break in a lil' bit after I've plugged them a few times.
(if you want specifics - there's not much holding the male pins in their places. They can bend sideways, and make it impossible to insert the connector into a female plug, until you've taken a flathead screwdriver to it and tried to get the male plugs where they should be. This might have been caused by my amateur crimping bending the pins though.)
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I don't get it. My cab came with Molex connectors but they can't be unhooked without breaking them by the looks of things. Can you get Molex connectors that just slide apart?
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Unclet,
Are all your hacks USB (asking because that's what I'm currently doing)? If they are you could just use hubs in the panel assembly and run one plug out...even hot swappable.
Just a thought. ;)
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I am not really doing a swappable panel cabinet, but rather I have six separate panels which rotate into place to allow a person to play. Anyway, each panel has it's own Dual Strike USB controller hack which will plug into a USB Hub. However, if I need to remove a panel (for fixing, etc...) I would rather not have to remove the Dual Strike PCB hack with wires.
I believe I have decided to connect the wires from the controls (buttons, joysticks, yoke, etc...) into 25pin IDE printer cables, then have the other end of the printer cable be connected to the wires coming from the Dual Strike PCB. Basically, I would then only need to disconnect the printer cable IDE connector to remove my assembly, but the Dual Strike PCB hack and all wires coming from it (even the USB cable to the hub) can remain connected.
My thoughts were the more I move the Dual Strike PCB around, the better chance it would break or get damaged. I would like to keep all the hacks inside my rotating design "shell" and not worry about them anymore.
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Now, I see! I knew your design didn't have swappable panels (I've seen pics and OMG it's cool)...I was just thinking out loud. What I didn't know was that you wanted to remove controls without removing hack...now it all makes sense. And parallel cable sounds like a very good solution.
Good luck and post more pics...I love that thing! ;D
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I don't get it. My cab came with Molex connectors but they can't be unhooked without breaking them by the looks of things. Can you get Molex connectors that just slide apart?
I'd have to see a pic to be sure, but usually there are just little tabs holding the two together. You have to more or less balance pressure and pulling to get them apart.
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I don't get it. My cab came with Molex connectors but they can't be unhooked without breaking them by the looks of things. Can you get Molex connectors that just slide apart?
Yeah, they could just be a bit tough. My Galaga tabletop was also very tricky to get the Molex connectors apart. 20 years fixed together doesn't help :D