Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: Xiaou2 on March 09, 2011, 05:18:05 pm
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If you are into fighters, you probably like both Mortal Kombat and Street Fighter.
But when laying out buttons, you usually have to default to a SF layout.
Heres a simple idea, of using a sliding metal plate with a bezel cover, to attain both
layouts. Ive yet to complete the mechanics and locking mechanism, however, it
shouldnt be too much trouble to do so, nor for anyone to figure out. When I get around to
it, Ill post an update.
Shown are two versions. The bottom version, has a leaf switch on the 1st (red) button.
(which can double as a new-geo layout as well)
My designs are not to be used for commercial purposes without my express written permission.
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Why not just use the first layout? It looks like a slightly exaggerated Japanese layout, it would be perfectly fine for street fighter.
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This is crazy, but I thinking about this EXACT thing today. A button that you could slide along a rail of some sort and then tighten up when in place. Perfect for more customized layouts.
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Tell you what, man. If you really want to get crazy you could attach a servo with a rack and pinion to that design, then control it with the "MRotate" software every time you play either of these games. Then your buttons would "automagically" align when you select that game. :)
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Why not just use the first layout? It looks like a slightly exaggerated Japanese layout, it would be perfectly fine for street fighter.
Because I "Hate" those curved button setups. I always end up hitting button edges instead of the center of the button.
For the longest time, all 6 button games were aligned perfectly. (just like your keyboard)
I have a feeling that button layouts curved only due to looks, and saving space.
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It's a novel idea. :dunno
A toothed rail with a simple locking pin might be the easiest way to go. I can't, for the life of me remember where I saw a toothed rail that can be cannibalised though.
Next best might be a simple stiff piece of metal with holes or notches in the correct location and a pin to hold it in place.
A large rotating ring might work, except diameter might be too large for a typical CP. It would certainly solve the need to find a way to fill in that gap.
Yeah, I fiddled with those Japanese curves for some time. I don't like them either. I can deal with straight layouts even if they're not parallel with the CP edge. Curved layouts may be ergornomically "correct" but there's virtually no reference should your fingers get "lost".