Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: Rolpa on March 05, 2011, 04:02:02 pm
-
Hello!
I originally had a large cabinet with a Street Fighter style control setup, but it was too large to put in our house. So I traded it for a Vs. Dr. Mario housed in an old Donkey Kong cabinet.
The game worked, albeit without sound, due to a broken amp. The cabinet itself needs work, including a full treatment of Bondo (which I purchased yesterday). The monitor is in fantastic shape though, with virtually no screen burn to speak of. The orientation needs to be changed, and that's about it. The plan is to put a an old computer with MAME on it inside, so I can amuse myself for hours on end. :)
I've already had a Donkey Kong marquee printed at a local printer and inserted it in the cabinet. Next up is to remove the PCB. I'm willing to trade/sell it, along with the marquee, to anyone who is interested.
Overall, it will take quite a bit of work, but it should be a fun project. :)
P.S: I obviously am in no need of the Dr. Mario stuff, so head over to my thread (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=110203.msg1167364#msg1167364) in Buy/Sell/Trade if you want part or all of it.
-
nice project :cheers:
are you gonna change the control panel to add more buttons?
-
Please do not destroy that control panel! I will take it if you do not want it.
-
Pull all the original stuff out of it and just toss it. Then cut up the front of it so you can fit something like this on it. These cabs are a dime a dozen ::)
-
Pull all the original stuff out of it and just toss it. Then cut up the front of it so you can fit something like this on it. These cabs are a dime a dozen ::)
+1!
-
:laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
-
Please do not destroy that control panel! I will take it if you do not want it.
I'll trade it for a DK control panel. :)
-
Good trade!
-
If only I had a spare... :(
-
Nice project! I've done a few of these. Some of the things I've done:
Get rid of the monitor bracket bolts. I usually just move these to inside the cabinet and add a few extra support blocks.
Put a button under the control panel (on player2's side) to easily add credits
Originally I tried to hide the control panel latch bolts. I've since decided to keep them exposed. It was too much trouble.
Keep all the wireties/screw things nintendo uses. They come in handy later
Route the t-mold slot all the way around - currently it stops a little too short. If you do this, you will need a bit more than 20 feet
I can't tell from the pic, but do you have the bottom bezel retainer? If not, you'll need one.
Have fun
-
Nice project! I've done a few of these. Some of the things I've done:
Get rid of the monitor bracket bolts. I usually just move these to inside the cabinet and add a few extra support blocks.
Put a button under the control panel (on player2's side) to easily add credits
Originally I tried to hide the control panel latch bolts. I've since decided to keep them exposed. It was too much trouble.
Keep all the wireties/screw things nintendo uses. They come in handy later
Route the t-mold slot all the way around - currently it stops a little too short. If you do this, you will need a bit more than 20 feet
I can't tell from the pic, but do you have the bottom bezel retainer? If not, you'll need one.
Have fun
Sounds like some good advice. What do you mean by a bottom bezel retainer?
-
Nice project! I've done a few of these. Some of the things I've done:
Get rid of the monitor bracket bolts. I usually just move these to inside the cabinet and add a few extra support blocks.
Put a button under the control panel (on player2's side) to easily add credits
Originally I tried to hide the control panel latch bolts. I've since decided to keep them exposed. It was too much trouble.
Keep all the wireties/screw things nintendo uses. They come in handy later
Route the t-mold slot all the way around - currently it stops a little too short. If you do this, you will need a bit more than 20 feet
I can't tell from the pic, but do you have the bottom bezel retainer? If not, you'll need one.
Have fun
Sounds like some good advice. What do you mean by a bottom bezel retainer?
Here is a pic of it:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=77003.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=77003.0)
I did a quick search and couldn't find it. Your bezel sits inside this bracket and the bracket fits in the groove in the wood above your CP.
-
I also did one of these back in 2009. I converted an old Nintendo cab back to a DK running MAME. It was a very fun project and the results were exactly what I wanted - the cab is still in my dining room and I play it quite often! I second lew's ideas...
Get rid of the bolts on the side of the cabinet - they are ugly, IMO, and aren't really needed. Plus, who wants to damage the side art?
Hide your "admin" buttons under the lip of the control panel (countersink them). I have a coin button and a pause button on the right side and an "exit" button on the left. Works great and there is no way to tell that they are there unless you are specifically looking for them.
-
I also did one of these back in 2009. I converted an old Nintendo cab back to a DK running MAME. It was a very fun project and the results were exactly what I wanted - the cab is still in my dining room and I play it quite often! I second lew's ideas...
Get rid of the bolts on the side of the cabinet - they are ugly, IMO, and aren't really needed. Plus, who wants to damage the side art?
Hide your "admin" buttons under the lip of the control panel (countersink them). I have a coin button and a pause button on the right side and an "exit" button on the left. Works great and there is no way to tell that they are there unless you are specifically looking for them.
I'm definitely getting rid of the bolts on the side, as I have to change the orientation anyway. For the admin buttons, since I am just going to use a gamepad hack anyway, I was going to use a program called xpadder. It allows "shift" functions, so to speak. Using this, holding the P1 Button and pressing jump will add a credit, and holding P2 and pressing jump will exit to Mame.
-
I also did one of these back in 2009. I converted an old Nintendo cab back to a DK running MAME. It was a very fun project and the results were exactly what I wanted - the cab is still in my dining room and I play it quite often! I second lew's ideas...
Get rid of the bolts on the side of the cabinet - they are ugly, IMO, and aren't really needed. Plus, who wants to damage the side art?
Hide your "admin" buttons under the lip of the control panel (countersink them). I have a coin button and a pause button on the right side and an "exit" button on the left. Works great and there is no way to tell that they are there unless you are specifically looking for them.
I'm definitely getting rid of the bolts on the side, as I have to change the orientation anyway. For the admin buttons, since I am just going to use a gamepad hack anyway, I was going to use a program called xpadder. It allows "shift" functions, so to speak. Using this, holding the P1 Button and pressing jump will add a credit, and holding P2 and pressing jump will exit to Mame.
I've run into problems before using shifted commands - especially for "exit". If you have kids or stupid friends who will be playing on this cab someone will accidentally exit out of a game when they least expect to.
-
stupid friends who will be playing on this cab someone will accidentally exit out of a game when they least expect to.
I told you it was an accident. I didn't mean to exit the game.
-
I also did one of these back in 2009. I converted an old Nintendo cab back to a DK running MAME. It was a very fun project and the results were exactly what I wanted - the cab is still in my dining room and I play it quite often! I second lew's ideas...
Get rid of the bolts on the side of the cabinet - they are ugly, IMO, and aren't really needed. Plus, who wants to damage the side art?
Hide your "admin" buttons under the lip of the control panel (countersink them). I have a coin button and a pause button on the right side and an "exit" button on the left. Works great and there is no way to tell that they are there unless you are specifically looking for them.
I'm definitely getting rid of the bolts on the side, as I have to change the orientation anyway. For the admin buttons, since I am just going to use a gamepad hack anyway, I was going to use a program called xpadder. It allows "shift" functions, so to speak. Using this, holding the P1 Button and pressing jump will add a credit, and holding P2 and pressing jump will exit to Mame.
I've run into problems before using shifted commands - especially for "exit". If you have kids or stupid friends who will be playing on this cab someone will accidentally exit out of a game when they least expect to.
On my previous Street Fighter cabinet, I used shift keys without a problem. On a separate note, I am looking at your thread for your DK restoration. Do you have any measurements/diagrams for your control panel that you would be willing to share? If I can't get my hands on original, I'll have to build my own, and it would be a lot easier if I had something to go by...
-
stupid friends who will be playing on this cab someone will accidentally exit out of a game when they least expect to.
I told you it was an accident. I didn't mean to exit the game.
I'd believe it if it only happened once - but 5 times all right when I was about to beat your high score?
-
On a separate note, I am looking at your thread for your DK restoration. Do you have any measurements/diagrams for your control panel that you would be willing to share? If I can't get my hands on original, I'll have to build my own, and it would be a lot easier if I had something to go by...
Oops - I missed this one... unfortunately I do not have any dimensions for the CP. Bender mailed me his and I made a copy with the router - no measuring at all! If you order all of the parts (CPO, buttons, stickers, bolts, etc. it actually shouldn't be too hard to figure out even without the exact measurements although I'm sure someone here has them. :cheers:
-
On a separate note, I am looking at your thread for your DK restoration. Do you have any measurements/diagrams for your control panel that you would be willing to share? If I can't get my hands on original, I'll have to build my own, and it would be a lot easier if I had something to go by...
Oops - I missed this one... unfortunately I do not have any dimensions for the CP. Bender mailed me his and I made a copy with the router - no measuring at all! If you order all of the parts (CPO, buttons, stickers, bolts, etc. it actually shouldn't be too hard to figure out even without the exact measurements although I'm sure someone here has them. :cheers:
Lucky me, someone over at the KLOV forums has made an offer to trade me a DK control panel for the the Vs. Dr. Mario board. So I may be in luck. :) Unfortunately my cab got caught in a bit of rain today, it should be fine as I quickly wheeled it into the garage, and I was going to repaint it anyway, but some of the ink on my marquee washed off. :banghead: Oh well, due to errors on my part, there were small discrepancies compared to the original anyway, so I suppose I have a chance to fix these when I get a new one printed... :-\
-
I got a Gutted Donkey Kong Cabinet 2 year's ago that went through 2 conversion's Donkey Kong 3 then Playchoice and now Mamed
I didn't cut into the cabinet when I built my Cp just due to respect that it is a classic and now I am in the process of doing bondo work to it
If and when I do get another Cab I'll restore the cab as close to Original usally see cab's come and go on craigslist freebies
(http://[img])[/img]
-
That cab look's to be in real good shape how's the left side I see maybe a little work that need's to be done on the front bottom
What kind of monitor is in the cab hope it's a Sanyo ezv
-
I honestly don't know what exact model of monitor it is, but I'll check next time I wheel it out of the garage.
-
Ok I got tired looking at a white Pc Monitor
I got some Plexi Glass and Cut it with a Dremel to fit in the Monitor area next I taped it around the monitor edge's then taped some paper in the middle spray painted the plexi.
Next I drilled some holes in the speaker cab with a couple of 1x1 in the speaker cab to hold the plexi on top then used a black sharpie on the edge of the monitor to get rid of the edge white here's the result.
The Marquee is lit by a 12v 12 Led that I got on ebay
My son is sure having a blast ;D
-
Look what I Scored today on Craigslist ;D
-
Can Anybody Tell Me What Video Games Are Compatable With Donkey Kong? I Was Considering My Ms Pacman, But Found Out Not Really Compatable. I Have A Wonder Boy Game, But Have Been Told I Need A Hor /Vert Board For It.
-
Did some wet sanding and polishing on the Control Panel Inlay had some cigarette burns but look's good now also got the Bezel up
also got about 10 feet of white t-molding on the left side
Question Anyone know the Donkey Kong Control Panel Measurement's ?
-
I will be shocked if you find the actual measurements for the DK cp. For some reason nobody has these posted and dont want to give them up. :dunno
But please somebody prove me wrong.....
-
Can Anybody Tell Me What Video Games Are Compatable With Donkey Kong? I Was Considering My Ms Pacman, But Found Out Not Really Compatable. I Have A Wonder Boy Game, But Have Been Told I Need A Hor /Vert Board For It.
The only other game boards that you can drop in a Donkey Kong are Radarscope, Donkey Kong Jr. & Donkey Kong 3. (Or Mario Bros if you rotate the monitor 90 degrees) Nintendo has a strange inverter for their monitor hookup as well as some audio board things that are unusual. Because of this, if you want to use a different monitor than the standard Sanyo 20EZ monitor in a Nintendo arcade machine, you have to buy an adapter to invert the video and deal with the audio situation. Mike's Arcade sells these:
http://mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=NIN2JAMMA (http://mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=NIN2JAMMA)
I have a Donkey Kong cabinet that was converted to a Vs. machine at some point. I am going to stick in a Vs. Dr. Mario board. My cabinet needs a LOT of work though! :)
-
Did some wet sanding and polishing on the Control Panel Inlay had some cigarette burns but look's good now also got the Bezel up
also got about 10 feet of white t-molding on the left side
Question Anyone know the Donkey Kong Control Panel Measurement's ?
I can measure my DK control panel for you on Monday. Do you just need the outside dimensions?
-
Yes please width and length also on the back there's a cut grove that slides into the cab also how far is the inlay on the board a bottom measurement should make it close
Thank You Nimbus
-
The Donkey Kong control panel is roughly 22 3/8 x 8 1/4. Those dimensions are not including the piece of T-molding on the edge of the panel. The slot cut into the bottom back of the panel that allows it to slide into the machine is ~1/8 inch deep and 31/32 wide.
Hope that helps!
-
Nimbus you are awesome
Thank You :cheers:
-
Went to Home Depot and got some 5/8" particleboard closes thing to 9/16" had a piece of T-Molding with me
Plus it was also cut at Home Depot ;D
Got Home and found out it was a little to wide so I had to trim an 1/8"
PLus Used a Skill Saw to cut the notch out
Couple coats of primer with First Coat of black Paint on will do another coat tommorow
Here's what it look's like :cheers:
-
I'm confused. Who's project thread is this? Rolpa's or astroone's?
-
I'm confused. Who's project thread is this? Rolpa's or astroone's?
LOL I was thinking the same thing.
astroone - are you going to refinish the cabinet? It looks like it could use some bondo and a fresh coat of paint all over the place.
-
Where are the tabs of LSD dispensed from?
-
Went to Home Depot and got some 5/8" particleboard closes thing to 9/16" had a piece of T-Molding with me
Plus it was also cut at Home Depot ;D
Got Home and found out it was a little to wide so I had to trim an 1/8"
PLus Used a Skill Saw to cut the notch out
Couple coats of primer with First Coat of black Paint on will do another coat tommorow
Here's what it look's like :cheers:
COOL!! Looks very nice! Glad the measurements worked for you! :applaud: (I was worried that I would measure them wrong...)
You gotta love Donkey Kong/Nintendo control panels. You can just cut some wood and you are good to go. Not quite the same thing with most machines that use metal CP's.
-
I'm confused. Who's project thread is this? Rolpa's or astroone's?
Ok I opened up a New Thread didn't mean to take over your thread Rolpa
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=110918.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=110918.0)
-
I'm confused. Who's project thread is this? Rolpa's or astroone's?
LOL I was thinking the same thing.
astroone - are you going to refinish the cabinet? It looks like it could use some bondo and a fresh coat of paint all over the place.
Yes I am got some bondo but I need to get more paint See new thread that I put up