Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: MagicManPA on December 22, 2010, 03:45:13 pm
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MDF will obviously look & feel nicer, but I'll be doing everything by hand. Hand saw, cordless drill & dremel.
I know MDF is harder to cut, but just how much harder would it be if I went that route? I want to go MDF, but not if it's going to take forever to cut & be a huge PITA with what I have to work with.
Thanks! :)
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MDF is only slightly harder on your tools sharp edges, not harder to work with. I would go to a lumber yard or hardware store in your area and have the general dimension cut with a good saw, rather than hand-sawing. It will only set you back a few bucks, and if you buy the MDF from them, the cuts might even be free.
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I prefer plywood, its lighter and stronger.
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Get a router. Also, I'd use MDF on the CP - it is easier to get nice and smooth and it won't warp at all unless you get it wet...
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My first CP and minor cabinet mods used MDF and I thought it was difficult to cut well but very easy to finish curves using a sander after only cutting close to my cut lines.
Then I decided to go for the plywood experience on my second cabinet but made the CP out of MDF. IMO cutting/working MDF was a cakewalk compared to plywood, for both holes and cleaning up curves. If you plan on using t-molding on the CP, I also found it easier to attach to MDF than plywood for some reason.
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I used both for my current CP. Overall I would go with MDF over Plywood. Working with Plywood (especially the thinner stuff) can mean coping with it's greater tendency to warp. With sharp router bits you can get nice clean edges with MDF.
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I was hesitant to use a lot of MDF because of the stories I had heard, but I've been happy using it. I just need to buy a fancy respirator because I'd go through too many of the disposable ones.
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I keep on reading about how much warp you have to deal with when you use plywood. And you probably won't get to see the wood grain anyway. I've always found working with MDF very easy; just get the right tools (for example, I've been using a routher that cost 35 Euros on Ebay. You can't expect amazing quality for that price, but for building a cab it's more than enough) and you'll get very good results.
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I must be odd man out; I went with lexan over particle board for the CP. MDF was for the rest of the cab.
Plus, it's tough to load in your pickup.
(Is that even funny anymore?)
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Plywood is tougher on hand tools. (But at least it won't swell up like a balloon when it gets wet).
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
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Don't forget about mdo plywood. You get the paper face of mdf with the lightness of plywood. I have used it for a few projects and it worked really well.
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Don't forget about mdo plywood. You get the paper face of mdf with the lightness of plywood. I have used it for a few projects and it worked really well.
+1
I'm a big fan of MDO, you get the lightness of plywood plus a laminate paper face that is very even and smooth, easy to paint or laminate, except of the edges of course (which are just like plywood), where I use a thin quick coat of bondo then the edges sand better than MDF
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Plus, it's tough to load in your pickup.
(Is that even funny anymore?)
Yes.
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Plus, it's tough to load in your pickup.
(Is that even funny anymore?)
I checked this thread just to make sure who would be first to say it. :lol
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If you go with MDF, I'd recommend a making your curved cuts with a router not a jigsaw, unless you get a blade made for MDF (maybe carbide tipped)?
But if you don't use a router a lot it can be hard to control.
Have you thought of particle board? Most arcades from the 80's were made out of PB. If you get west coast pine, it's pretty strong, plus the dust isn't as bad for you (more wood and glue less other c#$p). If you do opt for PB, don't use sanding sealer, but paint it with a gray primer (I use the 99 cent flat gray paint from Walmart). Paint, sand with a fine sandpaper and repeat. I do three layers then paint it flat black and it looks just like MDF.
I've never used MDO, but regular plywood is a pain. IMHO, stay away from it unless you plan on doing a wood finish. The layers make it really hard to route the sides for t-molding.
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No curved cuts here. I don't have a router or jigsaw. My CP will be a rectangle. I'll sand the exposed edges. When I go to Home Depot to pick up the wood, I'll see if they have MDO as I like that option most.
If you go with MDF, I'd recommend a making your curved cuts with a router not a jigsaw, unless you get a blade made for MDF (maybe carbide tipped)?
But if you don't use a router a lot it can be hard to control.
Have you thought of particle board? Most arcades from the 80's were made out of PB. If you get west coast pine, it's pretty strong, plus the dust isn't as bad for you (more wood and glue less other c#$p). If you do opt for PB, don't use sanding sealer, but paint it with a gray primer (I use the 99 cent flat gray paint from Walmart). Paint, sand with a fine sandpaper and repeat. I do three layers then paint it flat black and it looks just like MDF.
I've never used MDO, but regular plywood is a pain. IMHO, stay away from it unless you plan on doing a wood finish. The layers make it really hard to route the sides for t-molding.
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i prefer using birch, my cabinets are used outside so it more durable
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MDO is the best, but very expensive. It's essentially an outdoor grade plywood with an MDF surface. It comes in good one side or both. Used a lot in the sign business.
MDF is the next best thing. It cuts clean and you can sand it nice and smooth, even if you get a ragged edge. Don't put it outside or get it wet, unless you have sealed it well with a good enamel. Be careful screwing into the edges....it hates that. There are special fasteners that work great with it, but can be a little tricky to install.
Plywood is ok, if you get some good stuff with a hardwood veneer. Also expensive. Cheap stuff with a raw finish is ok if you plan to add a rigid laminate. If you try to use regular plywood, you'll need to do a lot of work to get rid of the grain. It also warps easy.
Particle board works, but you have to be careful. I never thought I would find something heavier than MDF, then I tried dealing with PB. They make the stuff out of glue and sawdust, and an occasional stone and metal filing. Can be rough on tools if you run into stuff that's not supposed to be there. It's also not very durable. What mushes down or peels a corner on MDF, breaks it off with PB. Probably the cheapest option, though.
FWIW.
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I went w/MDF. Should finish drilling out the button holes tonight.
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gman - do you have a website? Your cabs are used outside! How do you protect everything from the elements?
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no website,, i use Dupont Acrylic paint
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whatever you do, do not do what i did and use OSB. i used it cause i was worried about messing up.. and MDF was rather expensive. and OSB at 8.00 a sheet. i could afford to mess up.. well problem is i did not mess up.. and my only complaint with how my cab looks is the dang OSB..
so this goes out to the newbie builders.. just build your project like you have built a dozen of them.. chances are you wont mess up and you will be happier with the end result.
so for the control panel on my cab, i used MDF.. and i like the finish much better.
chris.