Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: SammyWI on November 27, 2010, 05:12:21 pm
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Has anyone ever made a countersunk ball top for their joystick? I was messing around with this as a quick way to switch joystick heights on a multiple use CP with a U360.
First, I started drilling out the countersunk hole, slightly larger than the shaft diameter (10mm) to about 1/4" deep. Then I was able to pull out the brass threaded insert with a 6mm bolt and a big lever. Then I drilled the counter sunk hole deeper (maybe 7/16" or so total). Then I drilled the hole for the insert in the bottom of the countersunk hole and pressed the insert back in.
(http://i801.photobucket.com/albums/yy299/SammyWI/IMG_0401.jpg)
You can see the difference between the countersunk ball top and the standard one.
(http://i801.photobucket.com/albums/yy299/SammyWI/IMG_0396.jpg)
VS
(http://i801.photobucket.com/albums/yy299/SammyWI/IMG_0395.jpg)
The red ball was kind of an experiment to see if this would work. I think most of the short joysticks like Joust or Defender used a smaller than usual ball - maybe a 30mm? Can anybody confirm that?
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That's a neat idea. I was just working out how my Defender panel when i saw this thread. I know that Defender had the ball top set really low down so that the gameplay was comfy when using reverse. You didn't have to reach out for it with your thumb.
I just thought the joystick would have been mounted lower beneath the panel. Your method looks good but I would be worried about breaking or cracking the ball top. I just bought a hollow shaft for an LS32 which I plan to put a top fire on. I have to drill into the top of the ball top for that and through the end of the brass insert.
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You can certainly just mount the joystick lower beneath the panel if you're doing a dedicated panel. But countersinking the ball should end up feeling the same as a shorter shaft.
Actually drilling the ball was pretty easy once I got it set up in a drill press. Slow drill speed and very light pressure was all that was needed. When I was pulling the threaded insert out of the ball and when I had to press it back in, I had to apply a LOT of force. If that didn't crack the ball, I'm not worried about any problems in use. And most ball tops are fairly cheap, if you do break one. ;)
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Thats a really cool idea. When I made my Defender bartop, I actually shimmed the entire stick down to get the proper height. Your solution didn't really occur to me, but I love it. :applaud:
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only on BYOAC can we talk about balls, joysticks and nuts and no one goes for the easy jokes.
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Yeah, I'm surprised there were no 'short shaft' or 'ball size' jokes. :angel:
So, no one knows the ball top size for Defender or Joust?
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Well, here's a cautionary tale. I found a 30mm ball top I had lying around. Thought I would just put a quick countersink in it and give it a try on my CP. I carefully lined up the ball on my drill press, centered and level. I start drilling and the ball gets caught on the drill bit and starts spinning in the fixture. No big deal, right? I hit the stop button and check things out. Well, it is a big deal when the ball spins against the clamping fixture and MELTS A NICE GOUGE AROUND THE BALL! I was concerned about cranking down on the ball too tight and marring it. Next time, I'll tighten things down more carefully. Looks like I'll be placing an order at LizardLick soon. :dizzy:
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From the pics I've seen of Defender it looks to me to be a standard ball size. Maybe the same sticks as Robotron? 30mm seems quite small and is probably the same as Donkey Kong. I really don't think Defender had a small ball top like that, but I could be wrong.
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A little update: I got some 30mm balltops from Lizardlick. Put a 1/4" countersink in one today. This lowers the top of the ball about 1/2'' from a standard 35mm balltop. I did try to pull out the insert again and this one did not want to budge. I thought I was going to break my workbench. If I want to countersink deeper, I may have to buy a new insert and just completely drill out the balltop insert.
Drilling is still a pain. The bit really wants to grab and either pull the bit deeper or twist the balltop in the clamping fixture. Have to be very careful!