Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: nexus446 on November 20, 2010, 04:06:29 am
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Hi, there is possibly a very simple answer for this but I cannot find anything so here goes,
If I was to use 3/4 MDF to build my control panel then apply the artwork and lexan on top of the MDF the front edge would then be thicker than 3/4" so the T moulding would not cover the lexan or artwork overlay, should I raise the slot in the MDF to raise the T moulding and then bevel the visible lower edge MDF or is there an obvious solution that Im missing? :dizzy:
I want it to look authentic but with no edges to catch hands on for potential overlay lift. what to you guys do?
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First of all I would measure the thickness of your MDF panel to make absolutely sure it is exactly 3/4" (19.05 mm). I have had instances in the past where 19mm MDF from B&Q has been nearer to 18mm and same with 12mm ply from Arnold Laver that was more like 11mm. I'd also test on a scrap piece (from the same board the CP was cut from) the actual cutting of the slot. Then you can see for yourself how the T-molding will fit with the plexi alongside it's edge before you cut into the CP itself.
You could just route one side of the panel to make it the correct thickness when plexi is applied over the top. The idea you suggested about bevelling the underside edge would also work of course.
You could use a different thickness of MDF for the CP only if you wanted to. Though that might not be a viable idea. here in the UK MDF is commonly available in 4, 6, 9, 12, 18mm thicknesses. A combination of thicknesses plus plexi might get you to 19mm without having to do any extra work. I have done this before and it's just as strong. Just a bit more expensive buying different MDF sheets.
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you could do what is donw with goldn tee cp's, and bevel the edge of the plexi,
they also mount the trackball directly onto the plexi, and bevel the hole it pokes through, gives a nice smooth transition your not going to catch your hands on, the mounting bolts are countersunk too obviousely,
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I use 1/2" mdf for the top of my control panels. Then .1" plexi on top. The t-molding I put on the front overlaps the seem with the front panel. It also makes undermounted joysticks look better because they are not as short.
Alternatively, make a rabbet around the edges of the top piece as suggested.
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As others have said, I use 12mm MDF for my CP as opposed to the 18mm on the rest of the cab. The artwork sandwich with the MDF, the artwork and the plexi is just about as thick as the T-molding. Then it's just a matter of getting the T-molding slot at the right height and you're good to go :).
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Thanks for the info people, its good to here a few good ideas and that there is different ways to solve it, Im goint to be using under mounted joysticks so will probably go with the thinner MDF and find some Plexi that brings it up to the T molding width as that sounds easiest, thanks again :applaud:
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Previous threads with info and :pics 1 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=86127.0) 2 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=80015.0)
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Previous threads with info and :pics 1 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=86127.0) 2 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=80015.0)
Fantastic, thats cleared it up, bevelled lower edge me thinks on 3/4 T molding with offset groove. That will do me!! :cheers:
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I beveled the plexi because I forgot about this issue. It looks fine and was easy enough to do with a bit of careful sanding. If I had it to do over, I'd probably bevel the bottom and shift the slot up. Or, if I could have found some, I'd have just used slightly thinner MDF and moved the slot up to center on the plexi-MDF combo.
Basically, good job thinking further ahead than I did! Now you won't have to make a last minute recovery. :cheers: