Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Consoles => Topic started by: RonnieC312 on October 26, 2010, 11:36:55 am
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Ring of death last night.... 2nd time this has happen. I dont even play that much that is what is crazy about it.
:banghead:
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Oh well. Things like electronic game consoles do not last forever, and you have chance to buy the new 4GB Xbox with Kinect.
All my console are still working including my original Dreamcast. I keep all my console free from dust, on a shelf, and routinely played with.
RROD is something to do with heat build-up right? Do you have it on the floor, near the carpet? Leave it on for 8 hours or more per session?
This crude fellow fixed a Xbox by wrapping it in a towel until it resets or something.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=avWs4-wD15w&feature=related
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time to buy a mint halo3 jtagged from me..WITH WARRANTY :cheers:
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DONT "towel trick" it, you'll kill the caps. find someone nearby to do a red ring kit or try it yourself.
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DONT "towel trick" it, you'll kill the caps. find someone nearby to do a red ring kit or try it yourself.
+1
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Shouldn't this be "Microsoft SUCK RRoD"?
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My son's 360 got RROD. I got the fix-it kit and it improves but it still goes to two LEDs after a half-hour or so. Dunno what I did wrong.
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My son's 360 got RROD. I got the fix-it kit and it improves but it still goes to two LEDs after a half-hour or so. Dunno what I did wrong.
It's still overheating. Did you reapply thermal paste to the heatsinks?
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I'm kinda disturbed how 'Exercise your warrenty which gets you a new or repaired Xbox in less than a month with free shipping' is NOT the first suggestion here. |:
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I'm kinda disturbed how 'Exercise your warrenty which gets you a new or repaired Xbox in less than a month with free shipping' is NOT the first suggestion here. |:
so you want to prolong the problem not fix it?
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so you want to prolong the problem not fix it?
Considdering that Microsoft is prone to replacing many machines rather than replacing them, and often replacing them with Jaspers... Uhh... Yeah?
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Considdering that Microsoft is prone to replacing many machines rather than replacing them, and often replacing them with Jaspers... Uhh... Yeah?
I think you mistyped something up there, but the way it works is microcoft gets a console and rather then fixing it and send it back to the original owner they send a fixed one to cut down on the wait time. Microsofts fix is usually upgrading the heat sink but they still use the cheap thermal paste and the terrible Xclamp design. So you'd rather have a jasper that red rings then a non-jasper that wont?
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So you'd rather have a jasper that red rings then a non-jasper that wont?
I'd rather have a Jasper under warrenty which doesn't red ring very often because the Jaspers are fairly reliable. :)
Especially when MS is known to issue NEW jaspers are replacements. I had friends, old Xenon died a few months before it's 3 year warrent expired. They got sent a brand new Jasper that was manufactured only a month before. I'd much rather have that rather than trying to beat a flawed Xenon into working order.
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I kitted a launch console that runs fine to this day. the cooling system is flawed and unless you replace the thermal compound and X clamps, every generation (except maybe the super new piano finish 360s) has the potential to red ring and thats coming from an alleged 360 fanboy =)
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Ok... RROD is fixed now... took it to a Hacker friend of mine. I guess its time to Mod my PS3 and just take my Xbox and burn it.
Im having a Halloween party and I need my Rock Band going for it LOL
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took it to a Hacker friend of mine.
Wow, how did you go back in time to the 90s?
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took it to a Hacker friend of mine.
Wow, how did you go back in time to the 90s?
Through a back door in the system's mainframe, duh.
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(http://i610.photobucket.com/albums/tt186/newkillergenius/time-travel-want-advert.jpg)
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took it to a Hacker friend of mine.
Wow, how did you go back in time to the 90s?
Through a back door in the system's mainframe, duh.
OMG LOL HACKERS is one of the best movies of all time
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neuuuuuwwwwww, no it isn't. :lol
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Ok... RROD is fixed now... took it to a Hacker friend of mine.
Did he triple the RAM?
HAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHA I wanted to get a cool Racing jacket like them haha
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I know it's already fixed but I would like to second the suggestion to send broken xboxes back to microsoft. Why? Well let me count the ways:
1. It's free.
2. When you send in your 360 they replace it with a new one. This is ALWAYS better than a shoddy consumer-level repair job.
3. When you get your 360 repaired they extend your warranty.
4. Now that your warranty is extended, when/if it RROD again you send it in and get another new xbox.
5. You can repeat this cycle until the next xbox is released or when they start replacing it with the new black one.
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My son's 360 got RROD. I got the fix-it kit and it improves but it still goes to two LEDs after a half-hour or so. Dunno what I did wrong.
It's still overheating. Did you reapply thermal paste to the heatsinks?
Yeah, but maybe I didn't apply enough. Everyone says to make sure you don't apply too much. I tend to err on the side of too little.
I may have some time this weekend to re-apply paste.
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I know it's already fixed but I would like to second the suggestion to send broken xboxes back to microsoft. Why? Well let me count the ways:
1. It's free.
2. When you send in your 360 they replace it with a new one. This is ALWAYS better than a shoddy consumer-level repair job.
3. When you get your 360 repaired they extend your warranty.
4. Now that your warranty is extended, when/if it RROD again you send it in and get another new xbox.
5. You can repeat this cycle until the next xbox is released or when they start replacing it with the new black one.
allow me to counterpoint:
1) RRoD kit costs about $4, a little more if you use really good thermal paste
2) No, they dont. They replace it with a refurbished one. My repair is superior to M$s
3) No, they dont. The RRoD warranty is from manufacterer date on console, and you still dont get a NEW 360
5) No, you cant. If the RRoD warranty is up because they sent you an old console you'll have to try a "shoddy consumer level fix" or talk to inda for 3 hours trying to get a different console (been there, done that)
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I finally broke down and cracked open a 360 and did the heat gun thing.... a week before they extended the warranty to E72 consoles.
:blowup:
Oh well, it was an excuse to buy a heat gun. It was $10 on sale at Micheal's and a lovely hot pink.
Hot pink HAHAHAHAHHAHA You have to do what you have to do :blah:
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It was $10 on sale at Micheal's and a lovely hot pink.
Sounds like the same one I have (got it at Goodwill for a buck).
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1. It's free.
2. When you send in your 360 they replace it with a new one. This is ALWAYS better than a shoddy consumer-level repair job.
3. When you get your 360 repaired they extend your warranty.
4. Now that your warranty is extended, when/if it RROD again you send it in and get another new xbox.
5. You can repeat this cycle until the next xbox is released or when they start replacing it with the new black one.
Not to mention, if you screw up your repair and damage something you're SOL. If MS screws up... They throw it out and get a new one.
I'd only considder homebrew repair once a warrenty was expired.
allow me to counterpoint:
1) RRoD kit costs about $4, a little more if you use really good thermal paste
That's not including costs of tools. Not everyone has a Torx 8 Security driver hanging around in their tool box afterall.
2) No, they dont. They replace it with a refurbished one. My repair is superior to M$s
Well, no. Sometimes they send out refurbs and other times they send out brand new machines. Plenty of people have reported sending in Xenons and Falcons and getting back brand spanking new Jaspers three weeks later.
3) No, they dont. The RRoD warranty is from manufacterer date on console, and you still dont get a NEW 360
No, refurbed and new units sent out as repairs come with brand new warranties. You have 1-3 years of fresh new warrenty when Microsoft replaces your console.
5) No, you cant. If the RRoD warranty is up because they sent you an old console you'll have to try a "shoddy consumer level fix" or talk to inda for 3 hours trying to get a different console (been there, done that)
Since 3 is false, so is 5 here. :)
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allow me to counterpoint:
1) RRoD kit costs about $4, a little more if you use really good thermal paste
That's not including costs of tools. Not everyone has a Torx 8 Security driver hanging around in their tool box afterall.
For shame! Buying my set of security torx bits is one of the best things I have purchased. They come in handy on a variety of things that I would never have thought I would need to use them on. Everyone should pick up a set. :applaud:
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allow me to counterpoint:
1) RRoD kit costs about $4, a little more if you use really good thermal paste
That's not including costs of tools. Not everyone has a Torx 8 Security driver hanging around in their tool box afterall.
For shame! Buying my set of security torx bits is one of the best things I have purchased. They come in handy on a variety of things that I would never have thought I would need to use them on. Everyone should pick up a set. :applaud:
Only thing on the 360 requiring security torx is the controllers, and you don't need even need one for those. You can snap the pin off in those screws with a flat head using very minimal force.
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:blah: :blah: :blah: :blah:
you are wrong, call microsoft. In addition to that, they never send out a new console. You might get a newER console but not new. The fact you think the 360 uses a security torx bit is enough proof you dont know anything/enough about the 360. And, I was including the cost of tools. you can get a cheapie torx for 99 cents or a pretty good set of 8 for about $10
how about #6?
6) You dont have to wait a month to play 360
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you are wrong, call microsoft. In addition to that, they never send out a new console. You might get a newER console but not new.
They do. They send out plenty of remanufactured refurbs but people also get new units as well. I even have friends who got a brand new Jasper. People getting brand new machines is fairly well documented. Go look it up.
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you are wrong, call microsoft. In addition to that, they never send out a new console. You might get a newER console but not new.
They do. They send out plenty of remanufactured refurbs but people also get new units as well. I even have friends who got a brand new Jasper. People getting brand new machines is fairly well documented. Go look it up.
I looked, couldn't find anything. called M$ despite the THICK accent I'm pretty sure the guy says they would send me back a refurbished console.
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I looked, couldn't find anything. called M$ despite the THICK accent I'm pretty sure the guy says they would send me back a refurbished console.
I've seen plenty of people online report getting new jaspers. Granted plenty more get refurbs still, but MS has been leaning a lot more towards shipping out replacement Jaspers these days if it's an older unit that was sent in.
As for your claim that you're stuck with the warranty from when your refurb was originally purchased...
http://support.xbox.com/en-us/pages/xbox-360/troubleshoot/warranty/xbox-360-refurb-warranty.aspx (http://support.xbox.com/en-us/pages/xbox-360/troubleshoot/warranty/xbox-360-refurb-warranty.aspx)
"One Year Express Warranty on Console."
Though it is worth noting that while you get one year on your refurb from when it's sent to you, you don't get the three years on RROD.
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"One Year Express Warranty on Console."
Though it is worth noting that while you get one year on your refurb from when it's sent to you, you don't get the three years on RROD.
I was saying you dont get 3 years on the console you get from them. I thought I had read it was 6 months express warranty, good to know its a year. It doesnt deter from the fact their fix sucks. Its just the same thermal compound and they upgrade heat sinks using the flawed X clamps, so even though I can admit the newer consoles are BETTER then the old ones, its still a dice roll. I just RRoD kitted a buddy at works 360. took about 20 minutes and $2 worth of screws and plastic spacers and I already had a tube of thermal paste.
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:soapbox:
---fudgesicle--- these machines. They are poorly constructed using poor materials, and rushed out to consumers.
I have held my tongue up to this point but I have to say- if you can find your title on PS3 you are better served to do so.
If you do not have a warranty, you ARE ---fouled up beyond all recognition---. Don't try to convince anyone otherwise. You waste breath doing so.
I have been through 3 of these worthless, shoddy, hunks of ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- in the last 7 months.
In fact, I am YET to purchase one that will even play SF4 without tearing and freezing up.
(And one thing for sure- I am NOT purchasing another one)
XBOX 360 = Enormous piece of ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUBV--q6zAc#)
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"Gonna let it cool off and let that solder reflow."
...
:banghead:
:soapbox:
---fudgesicle--- these machines. They are poorly constructed using poor materials, and rushed out to consumers.
I have held my tongue up to this point but I have to say- if you can find your title on PS3 you are better served to do so.
If you do not have a warranty, you ARE ---fouled up beyond all recognition---. Don't try to convince anyone otherwise. You waste breath doing so.
I have been through 3 of these worthless, shoddy, hunks of ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- in the last 7 months.
In fact, I am YET to purchase one that will even play SF4 without tearing and freezing up.
(And one thing for sure- I am NOT purchasing another one)
If you're not using it, I'll take it off your hands for you. ;D
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the funny thing is- I'm not using it. :lol All I really want a 360 for was GH and SF4/SSF4. It can't accomplish that.
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I could fix that in like 10 min
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I was wondering when Justin would come in here bitchin' :lol
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Here are my main concerns. Firstly, not everyone has the skill to disassemble and do a repair on a 360, this includes myself. This means you need to get 'some guy' to do it and I'd rather not void my warrenty in hopes that some guy' fixes it.
More over, even a refurbed 360 can be superior to a self-repaired 360. The Opus is a Xenos mobo that was remanufactured with it's GPU removed and a 65mn Jasper GPU installed. So the entire GPU is replaced with something that is a lot cooler and the cooling is upgraded as well. That's a lot better than clamping back in the Xenos GPU that it shipped with.
People certianly do get new machines. I had friends who sent in a Xenos like 2 months beforeRRoD warrenty would expire and they got a Jasper in return. Not only is the machine new, but it also means the 'Jet engine' optical drive is replaced with something a lot quieter and your statistically less likely to get a failure.
Not to mention that as MS does sometimes issue NEW machines it is possible that they will start to issue new 360 S machines as replacements. If only for cost effectiveness. There are people who report being on their 5th Xbox, all five covered by the same related set of warranties. It could very well be cheaper to just replace the unit with a 360 S.
That said, when out of warrany I wouldn't discourage such repairs. If it's dead it's dead why not try? But if it can be on MS's dime I'd like to keep it on MS's dme.
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I could fix that in like 10 min
Well if you need anything as well, PM me an address if you're up to trying to fix it. My copy of SF4 has been opened once. Wouldn't mind trying again.
I was wondering when Justin would come in here bitchin' :lol
Seriously dude. These things can blow me. :lol :cheers:
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So far, so good on my new slim 250 GB. Hopefully it will continue this way.
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So far, so good on my new slim 250 GB. Hopefully it will continue this way.
Hope so man. You might have to stop by with it and play a few rounds.
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I revisited my 360 repair from last month. I did indeed have too little thermal paste. I cleaned and reapplied paste and all looks well now. The fan seems to run loud though. Too much paste=bad, too little paste=bad, right amount of paste=just right.
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right amount of paste=just right.
OK, Goldilocks... :P
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its better to have more then less, but this doesnt mean you should slather it on like shaving cream, lol
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its better to have more then less...
Generally, but there actually is a "just right" amount of thermal compound. The compound is nothing more than a thermal "gasket" which ensures proper transference of heat from the processor to the heat sink. The heatsink is what gets rid of the heat, and the goop doesn't conduct heat as well as the heatsink does. So even a little too much goop starts to drop the transfer efficiency, as it starts to act as an insulator.
If you have enough to create a good, gap-less seal between the processor and the heatsink, you have plenty.
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oh I completely agree its better to have the right amount. but with 360s its better to err on the side of caution; I've fixed well over 100 xbox 360s.
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oh I completely agree its better to have the right amount. but with 360s its better to err on the side of caution; I've fixed well over 100 xbox 360s.
I hope you aren't doing it for a living, or at least have good tools for getting that %$&*& case apart. As luck would have it, and probably as a direct result of me posting in this thread, my son-in-law's 3-year old unit RROD'd on him. Being the family "electronics fixit guy" I ended up with the job. It was time consuming, as I didn't have the proper tools and hardware on hand and had to find my security bit set in the middle of the teardown, as it was the only set to have a T8 in it. The case slowed me down big time.
To anyone considering fixing your own, it's not that bad. If you can fix an overheating PC, you can fix an RROD'd 360. Here's some notes that will hopefully save some folks some of the problems I ran into;
1: Get the kit. The real one with the unlock tool. You can get by without it, but your case will never be the same unless you have 4 small flatheads and an extra set of hands.
2: Watch this video (http://www.metacafe.com/watch/1271373/360_three_rings_of_death_fix_real/) a few times.
3: Use the right hardware. If you have the real kit, then you should have it already. I didn't and needed to modify the fins on the big heatsink to accommodate the extra length of the screws I had on hand (joystick mounting kit screws fit the threads on the heatsinks. ;D ) I also needed to drill out the only nylon washers I had that were close to the correct size.
4: BE CAREFUL PRYING OFF THE X-CLAMPS!!! If you slip and gouge the board, U R SCREWED! Take your time!
5: Make sure the top surface of the chip and the associated area on the heatsink are spotless. The paste used by MS gets to be the consistency of baked on chewing gum, and it's hard to get off. If the kit you buy comes with cleaner that works well, so much the better. But I ended up using brake cleaner, after alcohol, contact cleaner and acetone failed to cut it.
6: Don't even think about starting the job without that T8 bit. Big Lots sells a security bit set for $3. Get one.
7: Take your time and make sure you have plenty of room to work. I don't usually work on these types of things and had XBOX 360 all over the place :).
8: Make sure you remember to plug in the DVD unit at the testing phase. I think they left that out of the video and it fooled me into thinking that the repair had failed.
9: Don't even think about re-using the "X-clamp" thing. You went through all the work of getting to the board, just fix it properly while you are there.
When I was done, I played a CODWAW demo for about a half hour and it was pumping some serious heat and never glitched, nor do I think it ever will again. All in all, it's not difficult if you have the right materials and it's better than buying a new one or waiting a month for a unit that will probably just do it again.
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I use a 3mm flat headed screw driver, not the opening tool. after you've done it a million times the flat head is just as good =) You shouldn't need security bits, just torx head bits (the only screws that should need a security bit are the ones in the controller). I have a torx bit that fits both the long silver screws and the tiny blacks ones; its nice to not worry about changing them mid job. As for getting the Xclamps off, I turn a screw driver in between the part of the X clamp that hooks back and the metal stud. I was SUPER nervous about gauging the motherboard but luckily (jinx!) I havent killed one yet.
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I use a 3mm flat headed screw driver, not the opening tool. after you've done it a million times the flat head is just as good =) You shouldn't need security bits, just torx head bits (the only screws that should need a security bit are the ones in the controller). I have a torx bit that fits both the long silver screws and the tiny blacks ones; its nice to not worry about changing them mid job. As for getting the Xclamps off, I turn a screw driver in between the part of the X clamp that hooks back and the metal stud. I was SUPER nervous about gauging the motherboard but luckily (jinx!) I havent killed one yet.
I probably could do it without the tool as well...now. But it really takes seeing one fully disassembled to understand the locking mechanism, and most will only see that once...after they break it apart :)
I only mentioned the security bits because that little bit is not easy to find in others sets. And everyone should have a security bit set. ;) You must have found a T9 or something, because none of the T10's I had were even close to going in that T8 screw head.
And that is definitely the best way to release those clamps. Certainly better than prying from the top.
Lighter fluid will take that old heat sink compound right off, btw. That's the only thing I use to clean circuit boards anymore.
Yeah, Naptha sounds like a good solution. Just didn't have any around.
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I use a 3mm flat headed screw driver, not the opening tool. after you've done it a million times the flat head is just as good =) You shouldn't need security bits, just torx head bits (the only screws that should need a security bit are the ones in the controller). I have a torx bit that fits both the long silver screws and the tiny blacks ones; its nice to not worry about changing them mid job. As for getting the Xclamps off, I turn a screw driver in between the part of the X clamp that hooks back and the metal stud. I was SUPER nervous about gauging the motherboard but luckily (jinx!) I havent killed one yet.
Same here Malenko, I use flatheads and torx to open the case. I don't use a kit, I have a list of the correct sized bolts and washers and it costs a total of $3. I use a flathead to remove the x-clamp as well in the same fashion. I use Goo Gone to clean the crap off the gpu/cpu and follow that with alcohol to clean the Goo Gone (because it leaves an oily residue), and when complete I do the fan mod for good measure because without it they sometimes tend to RRoD again a few months later. I have had nothing but success for the last 2 years using these methods.