Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Woodworking => Topic started by: saloonstudios on September 28, 2010, 01:39:42 pm
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I've begun assembling my upright cabinet and the plan is to finish the cab, then figure how how to build and attach the CP. My reasoning being that I have very tight doors that I need to fit through, so a detachable CP is a must, but I also plan on using the detached CP with consoles so it needs to have a finished look on it's own. How can I make this look nice but still easily attachable/detachable?
I was thinking of some sort of L-bracket mounted on the cab with the leg sticking out horizontally, which would slip into slots on the CP. I'd need to lock them into place somehow, but I'm also worried about stability once attached.
I realize this is a rather vague description, but honestly at this point my whole plan is pretty vague so I'm open to any/all ideas.
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I suppose another option would be to have some aluminum braces acting as a shelf and have recessed threaded inserts in the bottom of the CP. I'm not sure where to find the exact metal braces I need though as the lengths would be pretty specific.
Would big metal brackets like this be strong enough to support the weight of the CP and gameplay action?
I suppose a pair of these would support a CP okay?
(http://www.surplussales.com/Images/Cabinets-Racks/Brackets/hwx-2z1250129.jpg)
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Other possible ideas, Go with two lift off hinges on the upper rear of the CP so they can just slide off and one or two hinges or brackets on the lower side to prevent the CP from being lifted while playing? Secured with some thumb screws for easy removal. Secure enough?
(http://www.frame-world.com/secC/images/ef-21rh.gif)
Or somehow find some locking shafts (like the end of padlock) with a quick release... eh-
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How easily-removable from the full cabinet does it have to be?
I'd use short recessed guides (like drawer slides) on the bottom of the control box with some kind of separate release that locks the control box when fully inserted. The release could be spring-loaded or such. Add to that matching connections in the back (a single USB perhaps) and it would work like a laptop docking station: line it up and slide it back until it locks and mates with the USB port.
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Been thinking about this myself.
For the CP to the CP Box I was thinking Connector Bolts one on each side hidden beneath my hangover.
(http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/31831-03-200.jpg)
Or maybe Cotter Pins hidden the same way as the connector bolts.
The CP to the Cab.
Im thinking about adding a piece of wood just above my keyboard on my cab then another piece of wood beneath the CP Box.
They will align up with one another then use simple slide bolt from underneath..the bolt can be easily gotten to from the keyboard slide out.
(http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/30930-11-80.jpg)
:dunno
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Been thinking about this myself. For the CP to the CP Box I was thinking Connector Bolts one on each side hidden beneath my hangover.
(http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/31831-03-200.jpg)
This is what I'm going with. While my CP doesn't need to be removed, once it's in place, it will need the ability to be removed if I ever move the cabinet. My doorways are 30" wide maximum, and with the CP installed, I believe I'll be over by an inch or two.
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Why not use clamped latches?
For example,
http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=70&products_id=204 (http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=70&products_id=204)
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You might want to check out this site. He uses the following to secure the CP:
(http://rdowney.com/arcadeodyssey/cabinet/images/IMG_5483.JPG)
Here you can see the threaded insert and L bracket combo where he screws in the threaded knobs
(http://rdowney.com/arcadeodyssey/cabinet/images/IMG_5468.JPG)
There's lots more pictures located here, about halfway down he details how to connect his CP:
http://rdowney.com/arcadeodyssey/cabinet/index.html (http://rdowney.com/arcadeodyssey/cabinet/index.html)
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Yeah that's pretty much exactly what I'm thinking. The only difference is that I don't have a wooden "shelf" on the cabinet sides. So I'd have to support all of the weight of the CP with the metal brackets. I think I'm going to change that though and recut some sides to provide some sort of shelf support.