Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: orchidius on August 03, 2010, 03:01:48 pm
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Hey guys,
I'm ordering the last stuff to get started on my cabinet. I want to order some electrical... things... to attach my wires to my microswitches. I've seen them PLENTY of times before, I've used them before in other projects (only needed a couple on those projects and had them lying around), but I just can't find the name... It's on the tip of my tongue, but it won't come out... And since you need a product's name to search for it online I'm kinda stuck here :-[
Could somebody help me out of my misery?
Thanks!!
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female quick connect or quick disconnect
Second item on here
http://www.lizardlick.com/pages/electrical.shtml (http://www.lizardlick.com/pages/electrical.shtml)
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For connecting to microswitches (without soldering), you would want 1/4" (.25) female quick disconnects.
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for those, do you actually need a crimping tool? you can't crimp it with pliers can you?
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Yep, pliers work fine for crimping.
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Yep, pliers work fine for crimping.
;D
thanks man!
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Yep, pliers work fine for crimping.
More often than not, no, they don't. I would use a crimping tool.
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Yep, pliers work fine for crimping.
More often than not, no, they don't. I would use a crimping tool.
+1. They are only a couple of ££/$$ and are worth their weight in gold.
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:cheers:
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For connecting to microswitches (without soldering), you would want 1/4" (.25) female quick disconnects.
You should verify what size the microswitch has FIRST.
Some versions have .187 terminals.
You also want to know what "guage" of wire it is you will be using in order to get the correct ones.
And I agree..... crimp.
Yes, it can be done with pliers, but it doesn't give quite as secure of a "pinch" on the wire or casing. Pliers tend to just "flatten" the connector.
I also recommend stripping the end of the wire, folding it back over it's casing and THEN crimping.
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Get a good set of crimping pliers it really makes a difference I started with some cheap-o crimpers and they would bend and darn handles hurt.
I got some of these here
http://www.amazon.com/GB-Electrical-563250-Crimping-Pliers/dp/B001AH7ID4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1280870895&sr=8-4 (http://www.amazon.com/GB-Electrical-563250-Crimping-Pliers/dp/B001AH7ID4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1280870895&sr=8-4)
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61RTixSUzlL._SL500_AA300_.gif)
and one of these style for the stripping
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31KBJ02N51L._SL500_AA300_.jpg)
I know you can crimp with the bottom one also but I don't like having the crimp part in the center its easier at the tip.
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IMO, needle nose pliers crimp just as well as an official crimping tool. But do whatever you like.
Also, using .25 female quick disconnects will not only fit .25 microswitch spades, they also fit .187 microswitch spades. They hold tight even with a little give.
My microswitches unfortunately are a mix of .25 and .187. The disconnects I bought were .187 (bag of 100). I ended up having to buy a bag of .25 to fit the rest, and wish I just bought the bag of 100 of those.
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I also want to add some support for fully insulated connectors, instead of the ones linked to in this thread. Yes, for pushbuttons it's not that critical, but it's one of those "good idea" things that prevent problems if a wire should vibrate off of a switch terminal. Depending on where it lands, it could save the cost of an interface board, or something even more valuable. Any wires carrying any real amount of power should absolutely use fully insulated crimp terminals. Any pushbuttons with lighting should use fully insulated terminals for all connections, as the risk of damaging something, or even causing a fire, is much greater.
As for the crimpers, if this is likely to be the only thing you ever do, then do what you can to get by and be happy with your sore hand. The sense of accomplishment will dull the pain :). But if you are the "handyman" type who collects tools to amass a "fixit arsenal" so as to face, head-on, any future repair challenges life may throw your way, don't be afraid to invest $30 on a cheap set of ratcheting crimpers. You'll be surprised at how handy they can be to have around and how much better your hand will feel after using them compared to the cheaper options. I used mine this weekend to get my RV running that had been "dead" for over two years (stupid corroded electric fuel pump connection...grrrr)
RandyT
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The link I mentioned was just to see if that was what he was talking about. It was the first place to pop in my head. Insulated connectors are definitely recommended. :)
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I get most of my stuff here:
http://sherco-auto.com/wiring (http://sherco-auto.com/wiring)
The prices are cheap and they had what I needed.
* Ratcheting Crimper (Part #: RIC1) A must have in my opinion... Ratchet function) $24.95
(http://www.sherco-auto.com/ric1.gif)
* 18-22ga .187" Female Quick Connect (Part #: FDV1-187) $3.50 per 100/pack - For Cherry™ Brand Microswitches or Groovy Game Gear's Versa Micro switch
(http://www.sherco-auto.com/wiring2.jpg)
* 8-22ga .110" Female Quick Connect (part #: FDV1-110 ) $2.95 per 100/pack - For smaller microswitch connectors such as those on Groovy Game Gear's "Microleaf" switches.
(http://www.sherco-auto.com/wiring1.jpg)
* 18-22 ga. 1/4" Fully Insulated Female Quick Connect (part #: FDFV1-110) $4.00 per 100/pack - For larger microswitch connectors such as those on Groovy Game Gear's new E-Switch™ brand microswitches.
(http://www.sherco-auto.com/Resources/fdfv1-2.gif)
Shown below: Cherry™ (same size as Versa Micro), E-Switch™, Microleaf
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=99770.0;attach=141377;image)
DeLuSioNaL29
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Thanks for all the response!! Just ordered some (damn those things are expensive!)
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In my country there called "lugs"
just to throw that out there for common general knowledge :D
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Just buy a wiring harnass. Much easier! Damn I hurt my hands with manual crimping.
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In my country there called "lugs"
just to throw that out there for common general knowledge :D
In my neck of the woods, this is a "lug".