Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: Daver4676 on August 05, 2003, 02:07:12 am
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I designed a control panel that partially rotates in the center based on plans from the Rebirth cab. Although that cab was able to rotate freely without opening any doors, I designed mine so that you need to open at least a front panel. I did this to (a) help keep the panel steady (though a more helpful bolt will be added) and (b) prevent a nasty pinching. I may have a two inch part in the back flip up in the back for more clearance.
My question is: since the movable parts means that the plexiglass (or lexan) will be split into 4 or 5 parts, will that make it look utterly ridiculous? It sounds like a dumb question as I'm writing this but I don't want people thinking the plexiglass is cracked (albeit very neatly cracked). I'd like some opinions on that. Let me know. :)
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Then just don't use plexiglass or lexan. I know most everyone here uses it. But most games don't ship with it. It is about as authentic as one of those security bars over the coin door*. Operators tended to add it when doing conversions because it kept people from sticking their fingers through the old holes left in the panel from the last game.
* Few games shipped with either plexiglass or security bars. Most ops added security bars themselves. While plexiglass was solely the realm of the conversion game, with very few exceptions (Only game I ever encounted with factory plexi was an Artic King & Balloon).
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I designed a control panel that partially rotates in the center based on plans from the Rebirth cab. Although that cab was able to rotate freely without opening any doors, I designed mine so that you need to open at least a front panel. I did this to (a) help keep the panel steady (though a more helpful bolt will be added) and (b) prevent a nasty pinching. I may have a two inch part in the back flip up in the back for more clearance.
My question is: since the movable parts means that the plexiglass (or lexan) will be split into 4 or 5 parts, will that make it look utterly ridiculous? It sounds like a dumb question as I'm writing this but I don't want people thinking the plexiglass is cracked (albeit very neatly cracked). I'd like some opinions on that. Let me know. :)
Hey Dave, I've sent an email to you. It's hard to picture what you are proposing. I like the look (and feel) of plexi/lexan myself and think you should do it if you can. Respond to my email when you get a chance.
Doug
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Hey Doug -- I have crude mock-ups of how I'm laying it out on graph paper -- I'll have it to you by tonight. :)
As fo the plexiglass -- it's sort of necessary for me because I definately want to protect the artwork I having printed out.
Thanks
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Hey Paige, didn't the Nintendo cabs have either acrylic or polycarbonate covered cp's ? I could swear they did and they weren't conversions either. I could be wrong as its been a while but I don't think so.
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Most newer games have their own plexi covering.
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Hey Paige, didn't the Nintendo cabs have either acrylic or polycarbonate covered cp's ? I could swear they did and they weren't conversions either. I could be wrong as its been a while but I don't think so.
I am unsure of what the Kong series had. But I know the Vs. Unisystem didn't.
Most newer games have their own plexi covering.
Most newer games are conversions. I know the namco reunion machine doesn't ship with plexi, and neither does the Centiped/Millipede/Missile Command combo. Those are the only "proper" newer dedicated machines I have seen lately. Everything else doesn't really have a control panel (cockpit driving games, dance machines, etc).
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All of the Naomi cabinets I've seen use Plexiglass. I agree that the control panel overlays on older machines had a much nicer feel but if you wish to design your own artwork then Plexi or Lexan is a far cheaper solution.
Unfortunately getting artwork printed onto durable laminated material is seriously expensive. If you cover your artwork with plexigrass then you can get it printed on an ordinary inkjet printer which is much cheaper. You can even do it on a home printer if you panel is less than A4 height.
With regards to the original question, perhaps you could put some thin strips of wood between the various bits of plexiglass. Then people looking at the panel will realise that the panel has not been accidentally cracked.
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Most newer games have their own plexi covering.
Most newer games are conversions. I know the namco reunion machine doesn't ship with plexi, and neither does the Centiped/Millipede/Missile Command combo. Those are the only "proper" newer dedicated machines I have seen lately. Everything else doesn't really have a control panel (cockpit driving games, dance machines, etc).
Newer Midway games like my dedicated KI2 have plexi. The overlay underneath is just a plastic sheet. I don't even think it's glued down. It's just set in place.
Golgen Tee wouldn't survive one month in a bar without a proper covering (which comes with the machine).
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Hiya,
For my rotating design... which I havnt yet finished... I designed a part that acts as a hand rest as well as a corner hide'r.
How so? I used 2 long thin pieces of wood and glued a thin long piece of foam to it with hot glue. The wood pieces were about 2 inches appart i think. Then, covered the whole thing with a fake leather material i got from a fabric store.
You have a few choices now. My first idea I pre-drilled holes into the control panel edges, and matching holes into the wood strips (before assemblying them)... I would then use string to tie the strips to the panels.
However... ive though about it more... and think maybe industrial velcro may be a better route.
The pad then sits on the bottom/ top of each control panel... and while covering the space between... it also makes a nice wrist rest. : )
My panel is completely uncoverd however... so for covered designs that foam may get in the way. Then intead... just use a heavy fabrick, flexible plastic, film or something simular that is flat and durable.