Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: MB on July 10, 2010, 05:46:31 pm
-
I'm getting close to the point that I can put the laminate on the sides of my MDF cabinet.
I already bought some glue in a can that I have to brush on and let dry for 45 minutes. It's sounds
a bit fiddly to me and I'm terrified that I will mess everything up at this stage of construction.
Can anyone recommend an easier glue to use for this???
Thanks a lot!
-
http://www.selffit-worktops.co.uk/products/Evo-Stick-528-Contact-Adhesive-750ml.html# (http://www.selffit-worktops.co.uk/products/Evo-Stick-528-Contact-Adhesive-750ml.html#)
This is the contact adhesive I used. It has to be the proper stuff. Cheaper adhesives dont work well over time. Be very careful though, as once it touches, it is NOT coming apart. I got the fast setting stuff that you brush onto both sides, wait 5 mins until its just about not tacky anymore, then press together working one side to the other.
-
If you are doing a large area the suggested way is to place your laminate on dowels or other bits of thin wood that will allow you to position the piece before you pull out the dowels and let the glue contact. The recommended roller is a hard rubber job called a J roller due to the shape of the handle. This is also recommended to get proper contact.
-
Nacimroc:
I already have glue like that but would like some glue that would allow me to slide things around a bit before "gripping". If it exists, that is.
Boba:
But what would keep the dowels from getting stuck in the glue? ???
-
Dowels do not stick as the glue is almost dry and the dowels do not have contact cement on them. To stick you must have glue on both surfaces like the laminate and the mdf. When the laminate and mdf contact then there is a permanent bond and you cannot move it around. There is not glue for this application that allows you to move the laminate after contact.
Here is a link (http://alsnetbiz.com/homeimprovement/formica.html)
They say that epoxy glue can be used but it is NOT RECOMMENDED. Why this is they do not elaborate. This would give longer setup.
-
If you are worried about lining it up properly before it sticks, then just use plenty of dowels as bob suggests. I put my cab on its side, with sticks/dowels every 6-8 inches. Line it up so its exactly where you want it, then remove the first dowel and work your way along it. There is is no way the dowels would stick as it must be on both sides to adhere. When done, I ran around the edge with a flush trim bit and it turned out perfect.
As a side note: To remove large pieces of laminate without it cracking from a blade or scissors, I used an angle grinder. I know it sounds wrong, but it cuts it like butter due to RPM's and there is no risk of it cracking. Handy if you need to cut out holes etc in the middle of the cab.
-
I used an angle grinder. I know it sounds wrong, but it cuts it like butter due to RPM's and there is no risk of it cracking. Handy if you need to cut out holes etc in the middle of the cab.
+1
I did this too with an ultra-thin cutting disc. Works like a hot knife through butter.
-
I used a thin layer of wood glue to adhere my laminate to either MDF or particle board for all of my cabinets. It has worked like a champ each time. Due to the nature of wood glue, you can slide around the laminate on the wood to align it properly once you set it on the wood. The key is to get a thin and even coat over the entire piece of wood. I have done small panels, large panels, control panels, etc.
I know there are special laminate glues, but good old Elmer's wood glue has worked perfectly for me. :dunno
-
The dowel trick works -- or pull apart an old cheapo venetian blind and use the little curved plastic slats.
-
Aha, like that! I never used that kind of glue before. Better practice on a piece of scrapwood.
So I would need to get a bunch of long sticks to put in between first.
I don't have an angle grinder though. Could I use a Dremel with a small cutting disk or a jigsaw instead?
-
Don't use a jigsaw, it'll crack the hell out of the laminate. Never used a Dremel myself, but I would be surprised if it were up to the job.
-
I found a video that explains how to glue laminate to a cabinet.
Cleared it all up for me finally! :applaud:
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0,,1639675,00.html (http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0,,1639675,00.html)
-
Its not as hard as you may think, and the wood dowels are definitely the way to go, if you can lay your cab down so that you are working on a horizontal surface.
You can buy the dowels at walmart or Hobby Lobby, look in crafts section.
-
Are the dowels not "just sticks"? ???
-
Yep! Anything at all that will hold the two items apart that can be removed easily! Shoes, bars, welcome mats! Anything! doesn't matter
-
Here, this should explain everything :)
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0,,1639675,00.html (http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0,,1639675,00.html)
-
Will two cats work? ;D
-
Will two cats work? ;D
Depends. If they get along with each other they might just lay there happily. If they don't get along, a fight will ensue and they will leave. Now if their nails penetrate the tacky glue I don't know if they would stick or not. If they do stick you will have a difficult time of squeezing the cats flat when you apply the laminate. :puke
-
Will two cats work? ;D
Depends. If they get along with each other they might just lay there happily. If they don't get along, a fight will ensue and they will leave. Now if their nails penetrate the tacky glue I don't know if they would stick or not. If they do stick you will have a difficult time of squeezing the cats flat when you apply the laminate. :puke
:laugh2: :laugh2:
Hey be sure to also use that stuff in a WELL ventilated area (duh) if you don't the whole house will wreak and did I mention contact high? :dizzy: That stuffs a trip! :afro: I had my garage door open and still got a bit dazed and confused. :dizzy: Didn't use it on a cab but on my mini bar. Best of luck. :cheers:
Oh lastly don't dilly dally with the glue either, I remember by the time I had the counter top coated, the laminate was already getting too dry. You've gotta move fast.
-
I recall reading that Knievel used a water-based adhesive that was low on the fumes. Rolled on in a color (white?). Don't believe he ever gave a name.
EDIT:
Found it in his Twin Taito thread:
"Take note of my glue advise below."
"I used to dread working with it [laminate] because of the contact cement, which is always a horror show. Recently I tried water-based contact cement and that changed everything. Looks and goes on like white latex paint, no smell/mess and easy cleanup."
"The water-based contact cement goes on white and turns clear when it's ready, one more great thing about it."
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=65678.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=65678.0)