Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: wp34 on July 09, 2010, 11:17:58 pm
-
I've watched several videos on how to discharge your monitor. Most of them describe creating a tool using a screwdriver, banana clip and heavy gauge wire. A couple of the videos mention using an insulated screwdriver but the in the videos it looks like they are using a regular screwdriver. The insulated screwdrivers I have seen have protection on the shaft as well as the handle.
To those who have done this I'm wondering if you need an insulated screwdriver or if a regular screwdriver will work?
-
a screw driver that has the metal shaft formed into a plastic molded handle.. in other words something thats not going to send the voltage from the tube right down your arm....
-
Bob Roberts sells them on his site. If you are going to be in this hobby and plan on working on monitors I would suggest picking one up.
-
I ended up building one following Bob's directions.
http://www.therealbobroberts.net/sb.html (http://www.therealbobroberts.net/sb.html)
Worked like a charm. I used a standard screwdriver. Actually had the exact one in his example except mine was a phillips. Five minutes on the grinder and it became a flathead.
Thanks for the help.
-
I have a few high voltage probes that are rated for up to 50k volts. They cost about $1000 each new, but I picked them up from a bankruptcy auction for pennies on the dollar. Before I had those, I used a flat head screwdriver with an alligator clip test jumper wire. I'm still here, so that method didn't kill me. :dizzy: You should be fine using the "old fashioned" method. The kit that Bob Roberts sells permanently attaches the wire to the screwdriver, so that's probably safer.
-
I have a few high voltage probes that are rated for up to 50k volts. They cost about $1000 each new, but I picked them up from a bankruptcy auction for pennies on the dollar. Before I had those, I used a flat head screwdriver with an alligator clip test jumper wire. I'm still here, so that method didn't kill me. :dizzy: You should be fine using the "old fashioned" method. The kit that Bob Roberts sells permanently attaches the wire to the screwdriver, so that's probably safer.
I looked for one of those probes a while back. Seemed like a better way to go but I could not find as good a deal as you found. Congratulations on your score. :cheers:
I'm really glad I was pointed to the Bob Roberts tutorial. I never thought to drill through the screwdriver and feel better knowing the wire will not come loose.
-
::) a reasonably priced hv probe here :
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/72-6530&mybuyscid=12399594715 (http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/72-6530&mybuyscid=12399594715)
-
::) a reasonably priced hv probe here :
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/72-6530&mybuyscid=12399594715 (http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/72-6530&mybuyscid=12399594715)
Ok...but I paid less than that for all 3 that I own combined. I also got 2x 4 channel digital oscilloscopes for $100 each from that auction.
-
Once you have successfully discharge the monitor, multiple times in 5 min intervals
you remove the anode cap
work on the monitor
then replace the cap with your fingers?
Ive never done this, but will need to soon - im getting a jamma cab with monitor tomorrow and could do without any surprises!
-
Once you have successfully discharge the monitor, multiple times in 5 min intervals
you remove the anode cap
work on the monitor
then replace the cap with your fingers?
Ive never done this, but will need to soon - im getting a jamma cab with monitor tomorrow and could do without any surprises!
Use the screwdriver to push out one of the prongs under the cap, then pull the cap out. When you go to put the cap back on, discharge again in case any residual charge built up, place one prong in, then use the screwdriver to push in the other prong.
I don't do the "interval thing"...once is good enough to remove the cap...when the chassis is unhooked, there is no power in the high voltage circuit, so while the cap is removed, you don't need to worry. Just make sure to discharge the tube before reattaching the anode cap. Be careful when touching the underside of a chassis that was recently powered on...the large filter capacitors hold a charge for a long time.