Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: laggerific on June 13, 2010, 03:23:29 am
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I have a couple of JLW-TM sticks that I plan on moving to a new Quad CP I'm putting together out of MDO. I'm now trying to find extended shafts to use here, as well as in the J-Stik I'm getting for this CP. I'm also using those invisible joystick mounts, so I don't want to route into the wood, if I can help it. Anybody try these?
http://www.arcadeshop.de/Own-Label-Shaft-Extender-JLW-TM_853.html (http://www.arcadeshop.de/Own-Label-Shaft-Extender-JLW-TM_853.html)
Would something like this be compatible with the JLW?
http://www.etokki.com/LS-32%20Shaft%20Extender (http://www.etokki.com/LS-32%20Shaft%20Extender)
How long is the stock JLW-TM shaft?
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Why don't you want to route in the wood? It's more than shaft length. The play becomes different if the shaft is very long. And even without routing, you can always use 2 layers of wood with different holes in it that combine to 18mm or so.
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The CP face is 3/4" and the invisible mounts require .4", and with my plexigless eating 1/8" from the CP, It leaves me with .6" left of wood. I can only route maybe .15" comfortably, and I'm not sure that's going to be enough.
I can't find any info on the length of the Sanwa JLW-TM stock shaft...any pointers would be appreciated.
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The U360 is based of a JLW stick. divemaster sells the longer shaft here in his B/S/T thread and on his website. The shaft is 10mm longer than the stock shaft.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=47066.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=47066.0)
http://arcadeemulator.net/ (http://arcadeemulator.net/)
Encryptor
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Just FYI, IIRC the upper shaft diameter of the extended shafts is larger than the stock ones so your dustwashers will not fit without making the bore larger.
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How long is the stock JLW-TM shaft?
The stock shaft (without thread) is 27 mm ~ 1.063 inch.
Just FYI, IIRC the upper shaft diameter of the extended shafts is larger than the stock ones so your dustwashers will not fit without making the bore larger.
What extender? Mine is 9 mm in diameter, the same like the stock ones.
Edit: BTW please note the JLW-TM-8 is discontinued (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=101621.0). If you bought any recently, it could be an unauthorised copy. Then I cannot guarantee that measures are the same.
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Haven't seen it asked yet so I will, why not top mount these on your wood?
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How long is the stock JLW-TM shaft?
The stock shaft (without thread) is 27 mm ~ 1.063 inch.
Just FYI, IIRC the upper shaft diameter of the extended shafts is larger than the stock ones so your dustwashers will not fit without making the bore larger.
What extender? Mine is 9 mm in diameter, the same like the stock ones.
Edit: BTW please note the JLW-TM-8 is discontinued (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=101621.0). If you bought any recently, it could be an unauthorised copy. Then I cannot guarantee that measures are the same.
Another BYOAC user and friend of mine Jimbo bought some U360s with extended shafts. The diameter of the shafts he bought was larger than the stock ones and I had to make him some new dustwashers to suit. I suppose it depends where the shafts came from.
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Haven't seen it asked yet so I will, why not top mount these on your wood?
This is a possibility...I've been spending some time at slagcoin.com this morning studying their mounting designs, and it may be the correct route for me. I might go the route of the JLF with the s-plate to keep the screws out of sight completely, while still providing a flat surface for the artwork to rest on. I just don't want my artwork to warp between the wood and the plexi of the CP face. That said, slagcoin mentions that I should attach to no less than 1/2" wood. Does anyone know the dimensions of the s-plate? I'm curious how deep it is. Also, with an MDO CP, could I go slightly thinner and still have the structural integrity to support the abuse this will likely get?
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This is a possibility...I've been spending some time at slagcoin.com this morning studying their mounting designs, and it may be the correct route for me. I might go the route of the JLF with the s-plate to keep the screws out of sight completely, while still providing a flat surface for the artwork to rest on. I just don't want my artwork to warp between the wood and the plexi of the CP face. That said, slagcoin mentions that I should attach to no less than 1/2" wood. Does anyone know the dimensions of the s-plate? I'm curious how deep it is. Also, with an MDO CP, could I go slightly thinner and still have the structural integrity to support the abuse this will likely get?
I mounted the JLW version of these sticks on the top without any screws at all showing, nor would you with artwork. I used FrancoB's excellent top mounting tutorial. I used laminate on my Aliens cab instead of art/plexi but you will get the idea...nothing shows and take a look at how much shaft I have left over the laminate...
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That looks sharp, Epyx. I'm thinking I'll just go with the normal mounting plates, upon further consideration, and your example definitely helps me feel confident in that decision.
Now, I need to read up on how best to drill holes to mount Sanwa OBSN's.
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Thanks for the props Epyx :) The guide is [here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=90467.0)] if it helps.
I did a panel for a customer with JLWs and OBSN-30s. There are some pictures in [this (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=95077.0)] thread.
As you can see the JLWs are easier to mount than the JLFs in that guide as you just need to route a rectangular through hole and a rectangular recess.