Skeeball - what an awesome idea! Don't know why I've never thought of that one. Will put it on my list, right under shuffleboard table.
That Popular Mechanics link was an interesting read, but the story photo on second glance looks a bit sinister. It's as though dad's been playing too hard and has had a stabbing pain in his chest, lets go of his goalie mallet and drops his hand to his knee as he bends over. Meanwhile blond daughter is calling out in horror and mom looks on thinking "where's that life insurance policy?"
Or am I reading too much into it?
That Popular Mechanics link was an interesting read, but the story photo on second glance looks a bit sinister. It's as though dad's been playing too hard and has had a stabbing pain in his chest, lets go of his goalie mallet and drops his hand to his knee as he bends over. Meanwhile blond daughter is calling out in horror and mom looks on thinking "where's that life insurance policy?"
Or am I reading too much into it?
tho I can't wait to complete things, I also need a place for them, another reason for delays. Like most of you, I'm NOT living in a 40,000sq ft mansion. Need to negotiate with the CFO, CEO, move stuff around, beg, plead, etc.That's why I've change to building "minis". Have you thought of a mini or bartop Air Hockey?
That's why I've change to building "minis". Have you thought of a mini or bartop Air Hockey?
Saw the mini's, very impressed (following the pinball (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=102319.msg1088868) lately), great work, but...mini air hockey...not sure about that.
I like the idea of a homebuilt full size one, will be interested to see the results.X2
It's definitely well thought out.yeah, "well thought out" - it's that apparent? :-[ Don't even know where to begin...well, begin with sheet goods, then... ???
If you use metal rebar or angle that thing will weigh a ton. Why not just use a 3/4" x 2" boards laid out in a grid. All the strength you need to support it and you don't have to be Superman to move it. Just my 2 cents. :)
| Qty | Size | Desc |
| 1 | 4x8 | white laminate |
| 1 | 3/4x4x8 | sheet wood (MDF, particle board, OSD, one-side-good ply, etc, to support laminate) |
| 1 | 3/4x4x8 | sheet wood (bottom of plenum) |
| 3 | 1x3x4 | straight edge wood (MDF or other, support playing surface) |
| 1 | 3/4"x4'x8' | plenum sides |
| 1 | 4x8 | Peg Board (drilling guide) - not shown |
| 3 | 2x4x4 | support plenum from underneath |
| 3 | 1x8 | angle aluminum (playfield vertical edges) - not shown |
| 1 | 1x8 | angle aluminum (outside vertical box corners) - not shown |
| 2 | 1x8 | angle aluminum (leg outside corners) - not shown |
| Qty | Unit Price | Total Price | Size | Description |
| 1 | 60 | 60 | 4x8 | white laminate |
| 1 | 6 | 6 | ? | Epoxy (hold laminate down) |
| 1 | 35 | 35 | 3/4x4x8 | sheet wood, OSG, playing surface, covered w/ laminate |
| 1 | 35 | 35 | 3/4x4x8 | sheet wood, OSG, visible sides (skirt) |
| 1 | 25 | 25 | 3/4x4x8 | sheet wood (bottom of plenum) |
| 1 | 25 | 25 | 3/4x4x8 | sheet wood, cut supports from this |
| 1 | 15 | 15 | 4x8 | Peg Board (used only as a drilling guide) |
| 1 | 8 | 8 | 6 4x4 | Legs, 4 @ ~15ea |
| 2 | 0 | 15x41/4 | Steel, goal tops | |
| 2 | 0 | ? | sheet metal, to be rounded, encourage puck down in goal, rather than bounce out | |
| 3 | 8 | 24 | 3/4x8 | angle aluminum (playfield edge) |
| 1 | 5 | 5 | -- | J-Roller, for applying laminate |
| 4 | 12 | 48 | ? | Leg Levellers (optional) |
| 1 | 0.45 | 0.45 | 4 x 1/4diam | dowel, drive drill bit thru centre, helps drill many holes |
| 3 | 5 | 15 | 1/16 | drill bits, expecting to break a lot of these |
| 1 | 350 | 350 | 300+ CFM | Blower |
| 2 | 4 | 8 | Mallets | |
| 2 | 2 | 4 | 3 1/4 | Pucks |
Those 1/4" holes are way too big... You are going to need huge blowers to float the puck.
The last is drilling the final, small (1/16 or 1/32) holes into the final surface material (future benefit, i hope).
I have a Dynamo arcade air hockey table. I found some measurements pictures which might help you out.
Notice how the "air chamber" cavity gets smaller the father is gets away from the blower position. I think this is how it makes sure the little holes on the outer edges have enough pressure.
I do not even remembering making these measurements so it must have been a very long time ago. I do not even know where the keys are to access the table anymore either :dizzy:
I have a Dynamo arcade air hockey table...
fwiw, found this "breakdown" pic to be interesting as well: http://www.valley-dynamoparts.com/docs/AH_2010_Breakdown.pdf (http://www.valley-dynamoparts.com/docs/AH_2010_Breakdown.pdf)based on this picture the Dynamo table does not look to have the same angled shape "air chamber" as my diagram I provided. The image you provided show middle wood supports. Anyway, although I believe my measurements in my image to be correct, I am now wondering if the inside (air chamber and blower) was a quick sketch I did of the inside of my older "Brunswick Blue Air hockey table" I owned prior to upgrading to the Dynamo I currently have. This does make more sense since I cannot find the keys to my Dynamo. Perhaps I never had keys to my Dynamo and just ever looked inside of this older Brunswick table only. Sorry, it has been a very long time. Anyway, perhaps the angled air chamber sketch I provided will give you an idea to mull over but perhaps you want middle supports like the Dynamo image you provided shows.
I was wondering if you have any info about the angle of the "air chamber" bottom - even a wild-ass estimateSorry, no way to get into my Dynamo without me drilling the locks out and/or removing the complete table top.
I wouldn't have been able to build my Skeeball machine at all if you hadn't taken the time to measure your machineThanks for the appreciation, however, keep in mind, I just sold the Skeeball machine, so hopefully all the measurements I have provided in the past will suffice into the future.
The top is a single flute the bottom is a twin. The single flute is more suited to drilling as it goes to a point but the twin flute and triple flute cutters are more suited to cutting in a sideways direction because of the multiple cutting edges.
The top is a single flute the bottom is a twin. The single flute is more suited to drilling as it goes to a point but the twin flute and triple flute cutters are more suited to cutting in a sideways direction because of the multiple cutting edges.
No... single flute bits don't always start with the tip in the center (like your bit) so drilling with those would be problematic. Also in your pic the 2 flute is on the top and the single is on the bottom.
One of many ways to attempt to drill dead-centre within pegboard holes:
(http://ids.ca/~steve/mame/images/ah/paper_tn.jpg)