The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: ninjasquirrel on March 28, 2010, 01:03:48 am
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Hey guys, I've been browsing for awhile now, keeping a low profile but soaking up all I can. Extreme amount of knowledge and talent here and I thought I'd give my hand a try at a build. First off I'm a artist/woodworking by trade and love the 'how to' aspect of all this stuff. I've always been a gamer and who doesn't want their own arcade machine so without further adieu lets get this adventure started...
Ok so I wanted a portable unit so I can could tote the thing around to friends and family outings so a full size was out of the question. It will be a 2-player bartop with a modern twist to it. I prefer to break the mold some and not construct your typical bartop, or at least that's the plan. I've got a rough sketch and idea of what I am wanting but more on that later. As opposed to beginning the build topic with cabinet pictures etc, I've got detail pics to begin with. I have ordered almost all of my parts which include:
2 competition joysticks
competition pushbuttons
standard concave pushbuttons (misc coin etc)
i-pac 2
ledwiz
a whole bunch of misc stuff I won't bore you with...
My first problem I encountered was (I know problem already : ) ) was that I couldn't make the control panel without the artwork being close to finished. This is because I'm going to have button surrounds and curves etc and I am going to use a black and white print out as a template to cut parts out with. So while I scratch my head on the big picture, I thought about beginning with something small, the illuminated pushbuttons. I wanted them lit but not the entire button like the translucent ones offered many places. I wanted just a 'ring' of light and with many thanks to Ond's retro build thread (thanks for the idea!) and a little thought I came up with this...(p.s. I used some scrap light sensitive plexi to achieve the glow more efficiently and one white led to light it)
So I did replicate the process Ond used to make my first button and let me tell you it was a pain in the buttox! Hats off to ya man!! Heres what it came out looking like after 3ish hours!!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144665;image)
So then I thought about a different way to cut the disks out besides by hand...and found an local engraving shop that has a laser cutter! Now here's what I had after they did their magic...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144661;image)
After the disks were cut out, I had to come up with a good way to cut my competition buttons at just the right place to maximize the glow effect and so you could see the plexi (so it wouldn't be totally hidden below the holder part) I have a table saw and came up with this simple little jig to hold the button in place while I cut it-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144657;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144655;image)
After the buttons were cut I then used sandpaper and a fat surface to smooth out the saw marks and scuff up the plexi disks so the glue would stick to them. Then I used super glue and my fingers to line up the 3 pieces and glue them. After glue up I'm left with-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144649;image)
No matter how 'perfect' the laser cutter may be (which the disks are close to perfect but had a slight slant on the cut edge) after glue up I thought they needed to be filed and sanded to flush up the 3 sections-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144653;image)
After filing I was left with this-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144643;image)
Then by hand I sanded them using 220 grit sandpaper, then 400 grit, 600 grit, and after that I buffed with some compound and came up with-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144651;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144647;image)
That took awhile now all I have left to do is-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144645;image)
Oh well
Well here is one button filed, sanded, polished and lit up in daylight-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144659;image)
Oh and in case any wanted to know, that dowel REALLY helps when trying to sand these things by hand. It's just a 5/8" dowel that I wet on the end to make it swell so it would fit snug in the button bottom.
Does anyone know of a good cheap plastic polish, I just can't get the original glossy shine the buttons used to have on the top. It's close but I know I can get it better
This is my first real post so I hope I did all the image attachments correct. let me know if I need to fix anything to make it easier to read or see.
So that's my first post hope it gives you guys some ideas and stay tuned for more!
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Anyone know why are some of my pics small and some large? I saved all my pics at 600 x 450 and posted them on the correct thread to link to...hmmm....
edit: ok i linked to image not linked to link if that makes sense, it worked!
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Nice work. Those buttons look awesome :applaud:
I thought about beginning with something small, the illuminated pushbuttons
heh heh,sure.(If that's small, looking forward to seeing all the detail in the rest of the project).
It looks like you're one of the few who prefer the convex competition buttons. Anything in particular that draws you to them?
Does anyone know of a good cheap plastic polish
Have you tried Novus?
Anyone know why are some of my pics small and some large?
:dunno but the small ones appear to be png's; the large jpg's. :dunno
First off I'm a artist/woodworking by trade
2-player bartop with a modern twist to it
Looking forward to seeing what you come up with. :cheers:
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Nice job. I love the look of those ring illuminated buttons. Not a huge fan of the translucent buttons where the whole thing lights up. To me, that's just a little too much.
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ewj- thanks for the compliments! I like the 'quick' movement feel over the convex buttons. Fighters seem easier where you can slide your fingers over them quicker and I seem to have less friction when depressing them. Just personal reasons I guess :) Don't get me wrong, I really like the concave for the old school games but prefer the comps for general all around play (I can't be too judgmental, this is my first build, so who knows what I TRULY like ;D) I haven't tried novus but have heard comments about it before. I think I might try to get some of it. Thanks for the suggestion
Dr Venture- Thanks, I think you were the first to suggest this method to Ond according to his thread so I should be thanking you!! Yeah and I really don't care for the whole button to be lit...just a little finesse is all it takes
On a second note, I have all but 4 buttons finished so I can see the light! Fingers started cramping last night so I threw in the towel.
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solid work, love the pictures! will be following this project.....thanks
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Thanks shortbus, I hope to have a lot of pictures as I travel through this build.
Ok so as of today the buttons are pretty much completed, except for the final polishing with Novus once I get some, and the sketching is coming along, although slowly. I think what I might do is get a general idea of what I'm after and work out the details as I build. I usually don't work like that, but sometimes it's the only choice when it comes to working in 3-dimensional. It also helps me in the design aspect when I can see ratios of parts to one another etc.
Since I do not have any build pics today, I thought I would give you something to look at to keep your interest.
My theme for this build is going to be centered around either World War II or possibly a modern military montage. My grandfather was in WWII in the Pacific theater and drove some pretty high ranking men around in his jeep. His 90th birthday was recently and I made him a model depicting his tour in the war...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144795;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144797;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144799;image)
So I might try to give the bartop an old, industrial look and feel to it, maybe throw in some war propaganda etc. Could be alot of fun depending on how it is accomplished...maybe even have a vs. theme against Hitler etc..
Before I forget this is the computer I have gutted and stole parts from-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144801;image)
It works out really nice with the cable attachment for the monitor and all. I think it is a P4 2-3ish ghz, so it should be more than fine to run most games. I have 2 hard drives that are 80gig, hopefully that is enough space! A wireless keyboard with built in mouse for admin when needed.
I'll try to get the sketches done and uploaded this week for critique. At least the buttons are done though, it wasn't a total bust this past weekend!
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That model is awesome. :cheers:
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bigpete- thnx man, I had a lot of fun making that thing. It's funny how you don't appreciate your elders, and what they did, until you grow up a little and realize how important those sacrifices were !
Well I am very close to deciding roughly where I want to go with this cabinet. I'm leaning toward the smooth lines and compact look of a hybrid candy cab...but with 'my' twist to it. Those viewlix cabs have a nice sleek look and don't seem to take up too much visual space. Oh well I'll get back to scratching my head, geez...I'll eventually have a worthwhile pic.
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Nice work on the buttons :), I especially like the black / yellow glow ring combination. To get plastic back to its original shine I use automotive cutting compound and a soft rag followed by light buffing with a dremel polishing disk. If you have used fairly coarse sand papers etc to shape something you may find after sanding and polishing you're still left with fine scratch lines. The only way to get rid of them is to work back through those very fine grades of sandpaper (800 - 1500 grit) and re-polish. I look forward to seeing the cab design.
:cheers:
Ond
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(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144665;image)
I'd give my left nut for a set of them buttons! Really nice job!! :applaud:
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ond- thnx for the comments and suggestions...I was afraid of the inevitable. That's actually what I got, the paste polish stuff for cars, I knew I might have to go back and resand, I'll take a little break and come back to them once the cab is under way.
nacimroc- hehe...the hardest part was making the discs but once I found the engraver to cut them they weren't bad at all. Just a little time consuming. Looking at your thread (nice job by the way!) you shouldn't have much trouble with them. After I'm done with the whole project, let me see how many I have left (disks), I might be able to hook you up with some if you are still interested.
I'm going to post a sketch tomorrow of the cab design...very rough but it gets the point across. Of course we all know it will probably change while I make the thing but it's a start ;)
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That diorama is awsome!! :applaud: :applaud: I used to do a lot of that and I know how difficult and time consuming it is. Good luck with the build.
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appreciate the compliment spacehedgehog...it kind of consumes you once you start!
Well after many revisions and thrown away paper, I have decided to simplify the bartop design. Once I get going on the build, I will make improvements and revisions but here is a very quick sketch of my latest idea...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145077;image)
There will be a smooth curve from the transition between the cp and screen and also between the screen and marquee. Speakers will be placed in the curve between the cp and screen. Player 1 & 2 will also be in the curve with the light sensitive plexi on either side (the plexi will light when player 1 & 2 buttons need to be pressed. The coin inserts will be in the front on a slanted platform with usb breakouts below them (if I can fit them in there). Pretty simple I know but it's all about learning the first time around.
Next I quickly 'smashed' it down in autocad to give myself a template to work from and made a simply side view-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145075;image)
My button layout is a mix between what I found on slagcoin, a little of t3design's project, and my personal feel-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145073;image)
So my biggest problem will be trying to shove all my guts into this thing. Quick question...can I mount hardrives any orientation (besides horizontal-standard, or vertical)? I mean will it mess up the needle writing over time?
Any comments or suggestions welcomed. I should start this bad boy saturday!
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You should be fine with the hard drives, current drives read/write head do not touch the media and weird orientations do not affect them.
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The hardest part is going to be mointing the powersupply. I had half an inch to spare on mine, hopefully they make a small one you can use. :cheers:
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That's good news about the hard drives, I was thinking it would be ok but thanks for the reassurance. And as far as the power supply...good and bad news there. It's a brick power supply much like the xbox 360 one, so it will be outside of the cab all together. Nice as far as space goes, but bad to have to lug that thing around. I guess it won't be so bad though...and just in case, I might be able to find one of those mini power supplies and figure a way to 'rig' it and place it inside somewhere.
Here is a pic of the behemoth brick-
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After a short vacation out of town it's time to get back to work.
I almost have the first part of the cp completely done. The first step was to transfer my cad drawing to the mdf I used for my cp. To do this I printed it out at 1:1 scale with a grid pattern overlayed on top the drawing. By doing this I was able to hold each sheet up to a window, put the next one on top of it, line up the grid and tape the two together. After doing this for the whole drawing I came up with this-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145611;image)
I marked the centers of all the radius and transferred them to the mdf, after taping the whole picture down to the wood, with a drill bit-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145613;image)
By marking the centers of all radius, it was easy to use my router with a simple circle template jig to transfer all the curves to the mdf-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145617;image)
After all the curves had been rough cut with a jig saw and final cut with my router, I then used my 1 1/8" forstner bit to drill out the pushbutton holes and came out with this-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145619;image)
The next step was to make a template guide to cut out the joystick holes. I simply attached some 1/2" scrap ply to a piece of 1/4" ply the exact size of the joys base.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145621;image)
Then I transferred the template to the correct location on the cp. By rough cutting this hole with a jig saw and screwing the template down, I then used my router with a pattern bit and final cut the hole out.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145623;image)
After the final rout I came out with a nice tight fit-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145625;image)
I'm using 1/2" mdf because it's what I had already in the garage, and because I will doubling it up in many places to create a 1" cp area.
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So after the cp had been roughed out, the next step was to laminate it. I am laminating the cp so that I can curve the sections that need a tight radius by kerf cutting the mdf all the way through to the laminate. I tried to kerf cut without laminate on a test piece and it kept breaking no matter how deep the kerf was. I hope that makes sense! Here is the small materials list needed to get the job done-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145627;image)
I had a piece of scrap laminate with a nice earth tone texture on it and it was a perfect size for the cp-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145629;image)
It was easy enough to laminate the piece after turning it upside down and jumping on it to secure the pieces together ;) Here's where I'm at right now, it still needs to be kerf cut but it's pretty close!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145631;image)
I went ahead and printed the side view out to scale like the cp and will begin cutting those two pieces out this weekend. Then after kerf cutting the cp it will be bent and attached to the side parts.
There will be many steps in this little bartop, and alot of head scratching ;D I'm already not looking forward to the transition between the side panels and the curve of the speakers! I might have to get the fiber glass out...geeeeze what a mess...
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I like this project but I'm a little confused
Are you going to bend that piece of laminated mdf somehow so it's like your sketches, and how on earth are you going to do that?
*scratches head*
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He's going to "kerf" cut it. Cut slots in the MDF from the back side all the way through, so technically, only the laminate will have to bend (at least I think that's your plan). Great work so far, love the design.
Keep up the good work!
Hewskie
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bender- hey, yeah it's exactly what hewskie said, I kerf cut the mdf all the way to the laminate. In this way only the laminate will have to bend
Hewskie- thnx for following and helping explain, you are dead on
Well I was able to get a little done today. So after I had the cp laminated, the next step was to attach the second piece of 1/2" mdf to the bottom of the cp to give extra strength to the controls area. It also allowed me to use the straight edge on the bottom to make my kerf cuts. So here is the first pic of the attached extra piece-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145681;image)
And like Hewskie was explaining, here is the kerf cutting I was describing, I did this both behind the speaker section and at the top between the screen and marquee-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145687;image)
A close up of the kerfing-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145683;image)
Just to see what kind of radius I could achieve, I gave the laminate a little bend-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145685;image)
I was scared to push it too far because I knew it wouldn't give me the exact curve I needed, so next I got the torch out and heated the laminate from the front. By warming the laminate it makes it more pliable and I was able to get the 4" radius needed to match my sketch. No picture of this but you'll see it soon enough attached to the side pieces...speaking of which here is a glimpse of one of them-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145689;image)
Next on the list of things to do is to rout out for the screen, marquee, etc while it is still flat. As soon as it is bent I won't be able use my router effectively on it because of the curves. I'm going to have a little problem with the location of the buttons and how they interfere with the side pieces that rest directly under the cp panel. I should be able to relieve cut the side pieces to allow the pushbutton nuts and switches clearance, I'll just have to work that part out as I go along. More to come...
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Very cool! Any time you introduce curves into a design it just looks so much more professional. Keep those pics coming you ninja!
Hewskie
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Damn you really are a ninja. Looking awesome. Did you just use the tablesaw to make the kerf cuts? They look very accurate. :cheers:
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thnx guys...yeah javeryh I just simply used the tablesaw. Tricky part was supporting the piece, the further I cut it, the more flimsy it became because all that was holding it was the laminate. Easy solution though, I just put a dummy 1/2" piece of mdf on the left of the saw blade under the cp and pushed it along with the entire cp assembly as I cut.
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:notworthy:
Stunning work!
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wow! that is original and very cool, I never thought of that, thats why this site is the best, just when you think you've seen it all, poof....
thanks for sharing, following with envy! great work!
:applaud:
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WOW! :cheers: :cheers:
That's sweet, I would never have thought of laminating THEN bending, great solution!
I've done some bending of laminate but always over a piece that was already curved and I can tell you it is extremely difficult and a pain in the :censored:
This opens up some more design possibilities for me
Thanks!
EDIT: come to think of it Mountain's production Jukeboxes use the same principle, and I still didn't put the concept together till I saw this
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Glad you guys are following...it keeps the fire alive!
Well, I had a little issue withe the area between the marquee and screen today. I started putting a chamfer (45 degree bevel) on the front side of the cp including the screen area and the marquee and that went well, but once I started to rout out the back side for the screen, the kerfing began to blow out and it chewed up some of the mdf. Here's a pic-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145722;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145724;image)
Although the picture doesn't make it look too bad, it did distort the chamfer on the front side and definitely wouldn't work.
After considering my options, I came up with a fairly easy solution. I used my router and cleaned out all of the kerfing in that section down to the laminate. Then by doing some tricky measuring, I found where the laminate needed to be bent to create the angle I needed. Next I made a poplar 'spacer' that had the correct angle transferred to it.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145726;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145728;image)
So by making that wood spacer, it forces the laminate to bend so that the spacer would fit into the opening. I had to heat the laminate again with a torch so that it wouldn't snap during the sharp bend. Then I got out my 2-ton epoxy, smeared it all over the place, and clamped the heck out of it.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145730;image)
After the glue set and I removed it from the clamps, I was left with this (you can also the 45 degree bevel on the front in this pic)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145732;image)
I have some cleaning and touch ups to do but you get the point. The valley where the bend is came out pretty good...it has a little unevenness to it but I'm happy with it. The entire laminate section will be covered in a graphic so any small adjustments can be made with bondo etc without too much stress.
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:applaud: :applaud:
This is absolutely amazing! Can't wait for the next step. Just remember to take plenty of pics.
Great job
:cheers:
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Looking good. I love the curves. How are you going to transition from the front panel to the sides?
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Well mountain that is where it gets a little fuzzy ;D
The 2 sides will be flush with the outside of the cp near the marquee (see red line depicting side panel below)
The bottom piece of mdf that creates the 1" area will have a rabbet in it to accept wacky wood, that will bend all the way around the lower part of the cp and up to the speaker section. The problem occurs when trying to transition from the wacky wood to the side panels. I'll have to figure that part as I go along...might have to do some fiberglassing or some other crazy mess.
On another note I'm hoping that the radius between the control area and screen goes ok. I'm thinking that I'll have to screw through the front (through the laminate etc) and into the side panels to secure them. But when it comes to the curve section, (because there really isn't anything solid there because of the kerfs) I'm guessing I'll have to get some pvc pipe with a close enough radius and use it to help bend the laminate into the correct shape. So the order of the sandwich will be side panel, kerfed cp, then the pvc to hold it against the sides. And before I take the pvc away, I'll have to fill in the kerfs with something to eliminate spring back and to strengthen it. Bondo or resin would probably work ok, any suggestions? I hope this all makes sense, it's hard to describe what's floating in my head on this project :banghead:
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Nice build, have just bookmarked it so i can keep an eye on your progress.
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Alright small but promising update.
Tonight I built the second side panel, finished routing out the bottom piece of 1/2" mdf to match the top (minus a 3/8" rabbet allowance for the wacky wood), and dry fit the front panel to the sides to see if I could get the tight bend to curve for me...it did, good news. I had a small tear in the mdf near the screen area but I have already patched that so things are looking promising. Sorry no pics tonight, it got to late and too dark but I'll post them tomorrow with more updates hopefully!
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Well I made some progress today...I finally have 3-dimensional bartop. The front control panel is attached to the sides! So let's start with the two side panels that have relief cuts for button clearance, and are attached together with a piece of poplar (this also helps support the curve in that area)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145912;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145910;image)
Before I attached the front to the sides I realized that I hadn't routed out clearance for the screen in the new hardwood piece so I quickly jigged that up and routed down to the correct depth.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145904;image)
I also needed to rabbet out the bottom of the cp for the wacky wood so I made it 1/2" deep and 3/8" wide (the thickness of the wacky)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145914;image)
So finally I was able to get this thing together. But as I was attaching the front to the sides, the thin area at the bottom of the screen area began to 'bow' in and created 2 little cracks in the mdf. The pic shows the bow and if you look close at both sides of the screen area you can see the cracks. The clamps are loosely tightened to keep the crack from growing.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145908;image)
And here is a pic with the clamps tightened, and 2 dummy boards just to keep the laminated straight for the time being.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145906;image)
I think if I make a temporary hardwood backer to help support the tension and then fix and sand the imperfections I should be ok. Then once the lcd screen is in it will hold the bow straight...hopefully :P
I wonder if rot resist would harden the mdf enough to help support it, or just make it more fragile causing somewhere else to crack...suggestion? Hindsight, I should have made a hardwood piece here too, like in the marquee area. Oh well, I'll fix it up
And here are a couple pics of where I'm at right now
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145900;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145902;image)
I'm still actually scratching my head on the transition between the wacky wood and the side panels...
How quick are any of you guys at sketchup >:D I might need a little help with that when the time comes. I tried it awhile back, but it's been forever and I know it would take me forever to draw that up.
So next will be the wacky wood and the very bottom panel of the bartop where everything is mounted to.
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Nice work ninja. Top notch!
Is it just me, or is this build starting to look a little phallic? A bit like a nut sack?
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Nice work ninja. Top notch!
Is it just me, or is this build starting to look a little phallic? A bit like a nut sack?
Looked like a guitar body to me at first glance this morning :) Or a giant dog cookie!
Looks really good. Love the curves.
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Well, squirrels do like nuts. Not sure about ninjas though.
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I don't care what you say, this thing is the nuts! :afro: :applaud:
Seriously... awseome... shizzle.
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LOL... :laugh2:
Well I did have some inspiration...
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Really nice. :applaud:
The left joystick currently has no enclosure (the bottom of the panel) from what I understand from your pictures, what are your plans?
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Emphatic- as far as the left joystick goes, if you look at the first very rough picture I sketched in reply 13 (which doesn't explain much ;D), the entire cp area will be wrapped in wood and connect with the side panels. The connection there will be rough to make it look nice, we'll see how it goes. I hope that's what you were asking...I should get some time this weekend to work on this beast and post some more progress, hopefully that will explain it better. thnx
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Over the weekend I was able to squeeze some hours into the beast.
First I started on the base, it needed to be applied before any other work could be done on the sides or back. Before I started bending and applying the cp to the sides, I traced the generic outline of the rabbeted area of the cp to a piece of 1/2" mdf. By doing this it lines up with the side fronts and the top cp area rabbet cut out:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146129;image)
I only needed a border which I made 1.5" so that I could make a hinged door to gain access to the entire bottom for wiring, motherboard, harddrives, etc. In this pic I'm using my circle template guide again to rout out the inside portion of the border:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146131;image)
And this is after alot of straight line routing and sawdust:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146133;image)
After the bottom border was created I lined it up with the sides and cp area and attached it:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146137;image)
Here is a closeup bottom view with the 3 pieces lined up. You can see how with the rabbet, this will allow the 3/8" wacky wood to wrap around the entire piece and attach to the bottom border I created.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146135;image)
After the bottom was made the next step was confronting the infamous transition area near the speakers. I think I've come up with a decent way to finish out this area by making numerous pieces similar to the one pictured and creating an array of them around a given point. More on that later but here is where I'm at right now:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146141;image)
I also created a backup piece for the laminate under the speaker area since it was unsupported and it gave an area for the wacky wood to attach to near this crazy area:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146139;image)
Here is the 2.1 computer speaker system that I'll be using. On the far right you can see what the decased speaker looks like:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146143;image)
Question-Will the magnets on my sub speaker effect the lcd screen or motherboard/harddrives? They will be pretty close inside the bartop, but all that I've read up on says that magnets don't really effect lcds but what about the motherboard? Anything I could put in between to use as a shield if so?
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:applaud: nice work. Is that PC 2.1 system already shielded (I can't see from the pics)? Most PC speaker systems are already shielded. Unshielded magnets probably won't affect your motherboard or LCD monitor but they shouldn't be placed too near a hard drive. A strong magnetic field (especially a changing one) could result in corrupted data. Years a ago in another job and life we used strong magnetic fields to bulk erase video tapes. keep em separated or shield from one another. To shield a big ass magnet you can try the following, take a (big!) soup/olive oil/etc tin, cut it down so that it fits around the magnet and attach to speaker chassis to hold in place. To see the difference for yourself place the assembly under a sheet of card and sprinkle a few iron filings onto the card - should be less defined magnetic lines than without the shield in place.
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The hardest part is going to be mointing the powersupply. I had half an inch to spare on mine, hopefully they make a small one you can use. :cheers:
You could just remove the inner parts of a power supply and ditch the outside so you don't have a big aluminum box. I did this with the cocktail cabinet I made, saved me a little bit of space.
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Ond- Below are close up pics of the speakers. As far as I know because there are secondary magnets glued to the back of each speaker, they are shielded. It's good to get reassurance on this stuff though ;D I should be able to place the harddrives at least @6" away too so hopefully that'll be enough.
spacegoogie- I suppose I'm just going to use my external brick power supply, in this way it is totally separate from the bartop all together. Down the line if I update the motherboard and supply I'll probably have to do what your saying.
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Just decase it. There's lots of warnings, but I've never shocked myself with one, and I've done some pretty stupid things with them.
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Just decase it. There's lots of warnings, but I've never shocked myself with one, and I've done some pretty stupid things with them.
Nice! Just don'y touch anything. THey hold a charge like a TV ;D :cheers:
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You are a woodwork specialist!!!!!!! :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
Excellent job!!
Cant wait to see the final result.
In my bookmarks for sure.
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xcvg- I'm still trying to decide my next move with the ps. That is definitely an option if there's room though
dkssprs-thanks for following! I checked your bartop out...it looks great!
Small update, the laminate supports under the speaker area are epoxied in and the boards used to house the speakers are cut and in. I'll take some pics tomorrow and hopefully have a much larger update. The next few steps include the rest of the speaker surround and the wacky wood application...it gets 'interesting' now ;)
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Are you using a standard ATX power supply? You can get micro ATX power supply for about 25-50 dollars and save a bit of space.
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teknyne- It's actually an external supply, look at post #16 on the first page. I've looked at the shell and I can decase it (it has the anti-tamper star screws) but I'll have to hack it up or buy one of the security star drives. I guess I could buy a micro ATX supply if I can rig the adapter to work with it. I'll take a pic tomorrow of the connector to see what you think.
So I do have an update today :)
First let's start with the pics from yesterday which show the speaker boards installed.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146299;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146301;image)
After the speaker boards were installed, I began on the surround for the speaker area. To accomplish this I built up this section with multiple cut outs like lincoln logs. Every other level is simply scrap that I've rough cut and will smooth in by sanding later.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146303;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146305;image)
Near the top the angles got a little tricky but they came out ok.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146307;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146309;image)
In the dead space between the sections at the top I'm thinking about using expanding foam which sets up hard after dry. After the foam dries I'll form it by rasping and sanding and feather everything together to make it fairly consistent. After this, I'm thinking about putting a layer or two of fiberglass over it to harden all the foam etc and give something for the bondo to stick to. It's all a little rough but half will be covered in wacky wood and the other will be smothered in bondo and paint ;D
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The overall look of this is going to be super nice :applaud: With the stack of wood at the sides, it's starting to look like another alien themed cab! It'd be great if you could add some sort of venting to it on these ares as it'd give a really interesting look. Are you thinking about creating a stand for it at all?
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Freaking unbelievable, after seeing your original design i thought there was no way your going to be able to pull that off, well i have been proven wrong.
Cant wait to see this come together, well done :applaud:
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Thanks guys! ...I still have alot of touchy parts to complete so I can't get too excited about the progress yet!
Spacehedgehog- I haven't really thought about a stand at all really. I was planning on putting rubber feet on the bottom of it and simply using it as a portable bartop, something to think about though, especially for here at the house. The venting would be pretty slick, but probably mostly aesthetic because of where the side panels block airflow to the center of the cab (where the motherboard etc will be kept)
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Some progress today...
I managed to apply the wacky wood today that wraps around the outside of the bartop. For those who don't know wacky wood is a type of bending plywood usually measuring 3/8" thick made from luan and is able to be bent into a pretty tight radius.
The first step was to cut a generic piece of wacky and hold it up to the side of the cabinet. By clamping it on one side and bending it by hand around the radius, I was able to trace the line of the cabinet top-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146368;image)
After tracing the top onto the wood, I then had to add 1/2" where needed to adjust for the 1/2" top so that it would slip into the rabbeted area (except in the area of the speakers where it simply was laminate no rabbet in that area)-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146370;image)
Next I clamped and bent the piece around the outside again, this time marking where the speaker wood stack ended and where the piece should be cut near the front, unclamped it, cut where it needed, then started attaching it with wood glue and brads-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146372;image)
Once the wacky wood was permanently secured, I gave it a quick sand to show how the whole thing will feather together into one smooth transition.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146374;image)
And here is where I'm at right now. Both sides have been applied and the glue is setting up tonight.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146376;image)
Once everything is dry, I'll start applying the foam and smoothing out the speaker area. I'll also be working on the front where the 2 coin insert buttons (just normal concave happ push buttons with a red glow) will be.
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:notworthy:
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Very cool!
Keep it up
Hewskie
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The skill and above all...Patience from the members on this board never cease to amaze me. Great job so far. Patience was always a problem for me...even as far back as model building...never wanted to wait until the glue was dry before moving on...which led to glue fingerprints on windshields....wheels that wouldn't roll...etc. Reminds me of this classic "Calvin and Hobbes."
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Looking AWESOME! :cheers: :cheers:
Nice work, and really unique design
Can't wait to see this done
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Woah. :applaud:
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Looks great. How's the weight with all that MDF in the corners? You are making great progress! :cheers:
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Thanks for the compliments everyone!
javeryh- surprisingly the weight isn't bad at all yet! Since the corners are made with 1 1/2" 'frame' strips of mdf it didn't weigh it down too much.
I've got my fingers crossed that when I buy the expanding foam and use it to fill in the empty corners around the speakers, that it won't push and deform the mdf parts around it ???
I know that they make different strengths of the foam, as far as how much it will expand...I'll just have get the weakest one I guess. Anyone have a better idea of how to feel those corners if I don't use the foam?
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Anyone have a better idea of how to feel those corners if I don't use the foam?
Bondo! It is really light, dries fast and dries hard as a rock yet sands easily. Best of all - it doesn't expand so no worries in that area. It also sticks to itself so if you sand too much or want to reshape it you can just add mor bondo , wait for it to dry and resand! :cheers:
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yeah I was going to use bondo definitely, just after I fill in the open areas. I would have to dam the bottoms of the openings so the bondo wouldn't ooze out if I filled it with only bondo, and that would be a bunch of bondo! I was hoping to fill them with something light and layer some fiberglass resin on top just to harden everything up and keep the different woods etc from moving and showing through the paint. After the resin I was going to skim it with the bondo to make everything all pretty ;D
I guess I could always cut some wedges out of styrofoam, glue them in, and continue over top of that :dunno
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Anyone have a better idea of how to feel those corners if I don't use the foam?
Bondo! It is really light, dries fast and dries hard as a rock yet sands easily. Best of all - it doesn't expand so no worries in that area. It also sticks to itself so if you sand too much or want to reshape it you can just add mor bondo , wait for it to dry and resand! :cheers:
+1
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:applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
This build looks amazing and can't wait to see the end result. Definitely learning a lot about the woodworking craftsmanship through this post.
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Just a quick post on progress made tonight...
I made the coin insert area in the front tonight and threw some bondo on it to fill in the cracks and brad nail holes. You can also see the some of the screw holes filled on the cp area with bondo. (see below)
I went ahead and used the expanding foam, called great stuff (the weakest expansion I could find), to fill in the speaker area. It worked great and I was able to take a hacksaw blade and carve off the excess. Then after a quick sand all around the speakers I put some resin and fiber glass cloth down to create a stable area that the bondo could stick to (see below)
I guess the next couple days will involve maybe another layer of fiber glass and then a bunch o' bondo and sanding...
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Damn dude thats awesome
Some of you people here make me want to delete my profile when you build such nice arcades.
Anyway, as you were...back to work :cheers:
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Wow - real nice! :cheers:
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Ninja: Great craftsmanship and attention to detail. I think you've given a lot of people inspiration, especially on how easy kerf cutting and forming can be. Entertaining build! Good Luck.
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So there hasn't been alot going on around here for a good reason...
I thought it was some sketchy Chinese I ate...but since my wife, and father-in-law got it too, looks like it was a lovely 2 day virus!! :angry: Let me tell yeah, that stuff sux...
Anyway after watching my little girl all day today, I was able to get an hour or 2 in tonight to work a little on the bartop. After a quick sand over the glassed area and around the coin buttons, it looks like this right now-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146664;image)
The next step I wanted to get done was focusing on the top of the cabinet around the marquee area. I made a template of the curve I needed then rough cut 3 more pieces out of the 1/2" mdf. Next I glued and nailed 2 together using the first to flush rout the attached one, attached another, flush routed, etc....Once I had them stacked up, they were about a 1/16" too big as far as thickness, I didn't want to try and sand that off after it was attached, so I sunk the brad nails, put it against my tablesaw fence and trimmed it a little. Here is what it looks like right now-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146670;image)
Here is a pic from the backside-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146666;image)
And here is a close up of the top-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146668;image)
Well I wish it were a larger update but let's see if I can get more done tomorrow, my fingers are crossed :dunno
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Wow, hadn't been back to this thread in a while.
Jeez, dude!
I thought the buttons were cool. You guys with your bendy, twisty, curvy, kerf cuttin' builds are f'in with my mind ;)
Nice stuff!
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This thing is awesome!
I have one more question, how are you planning on finishing the laminate?
Paint doesn't stick so well to that stuff
I could see a full CPO done with ploycarb over the whole front, man that would look slick
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:applaud: I see a Mamey in the making! :cheers:
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Thanks fellas' !!
Bender- Exactly...that's what I have planned, they make the overlay with the polycarb built into itself I think ??? Full overlay on the entire front, then I'll paint the sides, back, etc. I thought about trying to find some small (maybe 1/4" or so) corner molding that's flexible enough to bend around the sharp corners all around the edge between the CPO and the sides. It would have to be sticky back too probably...Still haven't worked it out exactly but I think it will need something on the edge.
I'm also thinking about using a piece of aluminum on the back to make the entire thing removable to access the marquee, screen, and speaker, etc
I could bend it to the curves fairly easily, so this might be my best bet. It'll be reasonably light also, so that helps as far as portability.
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Just need to tell you that I'm loving every second of this thread. :applaud:
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I thought about trying to find some small (maybe 1/4" or so) corner molding that's flexible enough to bend around the sharp corners all around the edge between the CPO and the sides. It would have to be sticky back too probably...Still haven't worked it out exactly but I think it will need something on the edge.
What about good old t-Molding around the whole thing?
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146716;image)
that area is the only area you couldn't get a slot cutter into, could probably do that little section with a drummel
wouldn't even have to be perfect cause the areas around will hold the t-molding in pretty well
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Bender- I thought about that, it wouldn't be normal t molding, I found some that wraps around the edge to create a little round over on the top, and it's adhesive backed too. Still considering what to do there though...keep coming with the ideas!
I was able to get a little done yesterday.
After applying the top and thinking about it for awhile, I decided to fiberglass all around this thing. In the past like I said on other projects, even with bondo skimmed over a project, I've had the seams of wood show through the paint. So hopefully by applying fiberglass to the whole project where there are seams, I hope to eliminate this.
The first couple of pics show the fiberglassed cab before any sanding has begun-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146762;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146766;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146764;image)
And here is a pic after sanding the glass a little bit. Hopefully with the build up of resin I won't have to bondo too much to get everything smooth and level.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146768;image)
I was also able to flip the cab upside down and apply bondo to the grooves in between the kerfing to make that whole area solid so it wouldn't flex at all. You can also see the holes that I drilled for player 1 and 2.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146770;image)
Player 1 and 2 from the top view-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146772;image)
So I'm still working on sanding down everything and getting ready for the bondo and primer-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146774;image)
I don't really care for finish work, but it's the nature of the beast so on we go...
I need to figure out exactly what I want to do as far as colors and CPO very soon also. The painting is coming up very shortly and I don't want that to slow me down! I'm still toying around with the military theme, so maybe blacks and dark olive green...hmmm....more on that later
Oh and here is all that I have to fit inside the guts of the bartop...lets hope it all fits!! >:D
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146776;image)
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Probably too late...but perhaps rather than molding, run a round over bit along the edges, especially since your glassing this in anyway. You've got your own vision of course, but I think the edges of any molding would detract from the curvaceous nature of this build.
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gryhnd- yeah that's what I'm thinking. I don't think it really needs any molding unless it were very small. Just something to 'break' the edge. I wonder about the adhesive back trim you see on car door edges. I don't know if it's a right angle or u-channel trim, I'll have to look into it. The easiest solution is sometimes the best, so I might just leave it as is.
The round over would work, it would just be extremely difficult to achieve with all the curves on the cab...most of it would have to be done by hand. The transition between the CP overlay and round over might be strange too.
Keep the suggestions coming!
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Really great workmanship and it is nice to see brand new ideas. Your cab looks like it is going to be a MAMEY winner for sure.
:applaud: :applaud:
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Thanks BobA!
Small amount of progress lately. I've been working on the bondo and sanding...slow progress, and I can't seem to get much time to work on it. Lets start off with a couple tools of the trade I've been using-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146881;image)
If you notice on the right hand side of the picture, I have a homemade bondo spreader. It's just a scrap piece of laminate that I've semi-rounded the edge over on and it works surprisingly well for spreading bondo. Good news is that if it gets too messy or breaks, you can easily make another!
I started with a pretty thick coat of bondo all around the speaker area. After a quick sand over, I then began to skim the entire area around the cab with a second coat.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146869;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146871;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146873;image)
After quite a bit of sanding, including electric random orbital, and hand sanding, this is what it looks like.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146875;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146877;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146879;image)
I think that last pic might have been after 3 coats, can't remember, it all kind of blurs together :dizzy:
I guess this weekend will involve buying some glazing putty and filling all the small imperfections including air pocket holes, cracks, etc. To make sure I know where all these spots are at, I made some pencil marks around the bartop.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146883;image)
This weekend will also involve working on the color scheme and artwork...wish me luck on that one!
Question: Does anyone know the easiest way to import an autocad drawing into gimp? I use the primitave method of saving as a bitmap, importing that as a layer, draw a circle at 1 1/8" in gimp, scale the imported layer to match the button circle to this 'gimp' exact circle. (If that makes any sense at all) Not very accurate and frustrating...suggestions?
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:o :o
This project delivers.
I love the custom design. I love the techniques and craftsmanship. I love this project! :notworthy:
Great job so far, truly an original design.
As for your question, you might be able to find some dxf plugins for The GIMP out there. I only did a quick google search, but I saw a few links that mention addons for importing dxf and dwg files. There might be an avenue there.
edit: another thing I'm seeing is converting an autocad file to pdf, then opening the pdf in GIMP. You could try looking into that.
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That's some nice work ninjasquirrel!
This project starts out awesome and just keeps getting better.
It's so bendy and curvy and smooth...can't wait to see the next update.
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I love this, it's a very nice build and you sir are very good at this :applaud:
When I have looked at this build I had this nagging feeling I have seen this lines before and now I have found it..
Maybe I am the only one to think they have similarities.
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I'm glad you guys are following the thread! Because from here on out, I might be needing the help/suggestions that this forum is great at delivering ;D
filuren33- Nice find! It's crazy how extremely close my cab's lines are to that pc! It even has the angled front similar to the coin area on mine :o I've never seen your pic before...well I guess there are no original ideas left ;D
This past weekend was fairly slow, spent time on the honey-do list and enjoyed the family on mother's day. But I did manage to find some 2 part glazing putty (catalyzed) and some heavy weight automotive primer to continue the finishing process. I was also able to transfer my autocad drawing into Gimp and things are slowly coming along on that front. This week will involve continuing to work on the CP overlay, marquee, and prepping for the paint. In the midst of that, I'm going to try and figure out a good way to make my speaker grills, make flush mount covers for the joysticks, make the metal back for the cab, and ramming all the goodies inside... :dizzy: little overwhelming but it will get there.
I know some of you guys are in the graphic arts from reading your own builds like opt2not etc, and I know all of you have a good eye for design, so I might need some critiquing/suggestions when I post some artwork later this week, so be prepared...lol.
p.s.- If anyone wants to know how I transferred the drawing into gimp...I simply went into autocad, pulled my drawing up in a viewport, went to plot under file, under plot I selected a plotter that actually 'printed' (saved really) onto the hard drive as a jpeg (a very large jpeg) and pulled it into gimp as an image-new layer. I knew how wide the cp was thanks to autocad, 26", so when I created a new page in gimp, I made it 26" wide. When the image was pasted into gimp, I simply locked the scale, and scaled it to the width of the page 26"...that way everything kept it's original scale etc. If this makes sense great, if not and you need more understanding, just ask!
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I know some of you guys are in the graphic arts from reading your own builds like opt2not etc, and I know all of you have a good eye for design, so I might need some critiquing/suggestions when I post some artwork later this week, so be prepared...lol.
You betcha. I'll definitely give you some critiques on the artwork, I'm looking forward to it! Your construction design is great already, putting some equally awesome artwork to it will make this project godly. ;)
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I really like this build as well. It has my creative energy going for another future portable bartop build. Can't wait to see this one done! :cheers:
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Those curves are great - I don't think you will need any molding around the edge... :cheers:
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Well after alot of head scratching and numerous start overs, I came up with a first draft of what I'm thinking about for my graphic overlay. I went with the military'ish theme and kept the overall look in shadows. The top section is trying to replicate a scratched, grungy looking metal, and as you go down to the controls area, I put a carbon fiber in the background faintly and added all the rest on top. This is my first real project using gimp so it took a little time to learn and I'm sure things could look better so please critique away.
First pic shows what will be printed-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=147278;image)
Second shows what it would look like with the cutouts-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=147280;image)
This was a learning experience with the ol' gimp and I like the way it looks, but I'm not dead-set on this as being my final version. I'm thinking about painting the cab with a pearlescent black maybe to go along with the darker theme.
Edit: ok so I've thought about it and I think that instead of a standard shiny looking black finish, I think I'm leaning toward a satin/matte finish much like what is on this car...I'm thinking about a brand called Hot Rod Flatz
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=147276;image)
As far as marquees go...nothing yet ;D
I'll focus on the overlay before I get too deep into the marquee.
At the bottom are much larger pics to show the details if you wanted to see them, and the carbon fiber is a little messed up at the bottom on the bigger ones at the bottom, just ignore that part.
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Looks awesome!!!! Like what you did on the graphic!
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I think it is perfect, nice simple and clean graphic. It will work well with this, as the art is not the focus of the Bartop. The great curves and originality of the Bartop are the focus.
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Nicely done! :applaud: I like the tarnished/scratched metal look for the top, and I really REALLY like the joystick cross heirs. Especially the way the colours work together, the light green with the teal/blue really works well, and I kinda wish there was more of that colour-mix in the button outlines. Perhaps sprucing those lines up inserting a teal/blue line could be cool looking. Or, perhaps parts of the green lines could fade in-and-out of the teal/blue.
Another comment is the tarnished/scratched metal, how do you feel about tinting it towards green more to go with the green coverage you have in the CP area? It looks like the metal part has a warm hue, going more towards brown...whereas the bottom has more cooler tones. Perhaps play with the tint a bit to get to a cooler tone would work nice.
I'm not too crazy about the dude's face, mostly 'cause I don't know who he is, and if he's just a generic soldier guy I would have gone with a masked dude, or with camouflaged face paint -- like someone in the special forces. This is probably more of a personal feeling, but I would've gone with an unrecognizable face, so that people wouldn't come up to my cabinet and ask, "oh where's that guy from?"...if he had unrecognizable features the viewer wouldn't try to associate him with anyone.
This is an awesome first draft though, and most of my comments are just being nit-picky. Overall, great job man.
btw, how do you feel about faded thin-green grid lines...perhaps under the buttons, and creeping up towards the top?
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That paint choice (like the car) is very cool, and I'm sure that you can pull it off. :cheers: I'd go for a more generic graphic on the CPO though. That soldier makes the cabinet look semi-dedicated, and it's a bit distracting I think.
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Ok so I've got the second draft ready for your enjoyment.
Taking into consideration opt2not's and emphatic's suggestions and a little surfing on the web, I was able to replace the soldier with a spec ops soldier covered with a mask so hopefully no one recognizes him now ;D I did agree with what you guys were saying about the dedication look of it after I took a break from staring at it and came back later. Great suggestions!
I still don't know if the metal at the top looks quite right...something seems off a little :dunno
maybe it's just me, but what do you guys think? I did tint it more green, hopefully not too much.
I tried to find a nice illustration of a tank or plane to place where the soldier is, but after over an hour I couldn't find the one with just the 'right' look and was big enough.
Anyway keep the comments coming, I still have time and room for additional drafts :)
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That's much better! :applaud: You should really consider using transparent dustwashers for your joysticks and as well as artwork packed Seimitsu buttons that let's you preserve that mesh pattern you have in the "button area". Or do you already have a button color theme chosen?
How about these planes:
http://integrator.hanscom.af.mil/2008/September/09112008/Link16.jpg (http://integrator.hanscom.af.mil/2008/September/09112008/Link16.jpg)
http://www.defenselink.mil/dodcmsshare/homepagephoto/2009-03/hires_090309-F-6911G-207a.jpg (http://www.defenselink.mil/dodcmsshare/homepagephoto/2009-03/hires_090309-F-6911G-207a.jpg)
http://bbccupholder.files.wordpress.com/2008/11/two_f-22a_raptor_in_column_flight_-_noise_reduced.jpg (http://bbccupholder.files.wordpress.com/2008/11/two_f-22a_raptor_in_column_flight_-_noise_reduced.jpg)
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yeah, much better, but I'd ditch the soldier all together
Simple and clean, with just that smoke and your awesome joystick and button layouts would really rock!
oh and the top bit I feel could be a little more toward the green side it looks more toward the yellowish side at least on my screen, I don't think the color should be any stronger just a little hue shift toward green but still really muted
Also Mountain, tuned me on to this stuff which I think would just be amazing for your build, a matt soft feeling coating, would just be sick!
http://alsacorp.com/products/softtouch/softtouch.htm (http://alsacorp.com/products/softtouch/softtouch.htm)
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+1 on ditching the headshot altogether. I will admit that I'm not the best judge of art when it isn't done in a cartoony/arcade/retro style though which is what I think all cabs should have in my warped little brain.
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emphatic- I think I'll definitely be using transparent dustwashers, and as far as the buttons go, glance back at the my first page again. They will be the competition buttons with the green plexi inserts with a glow effect. That's where the green theme first started from. Thanks for the plane pics, still trying to decide what to do in that area but I could do alot with them!
Bender- that paint is VERY nice!!!! :cheers: But really $$$$ for even a quart. Haven't seen that brand before so thanks for the link...really considering this as an option now!
javeryh- I'm still considering leaving that section blank like you said...didn't feel too good about the new soldier when I looked at it for awhile.
I was out of town this weekend but I'm back at it starting this week. Hopefully I can get another version up and see what you guys thank. If anyone has anymore ideas, no matter what they are please suggest them. This is how revisions and tweaks work...I love peer judgment, even when it's my final say so, bouncing ideas around helps out alot!! I really am enjoying where this is going with all of your input! :cheers:
I was even thinking about making it more cartoony/illustrative like javeryh was saying so lets try to get that thought flowing also...
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as far as the buttons go, glance back at the my first page again. They will be the competition buttons with the green plexi inserts with a glow effect.
Doh! I knew I was forgetting something. :banghead: Those will of course look even better.
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After taking a break from the graphic area of the cab (it's giving me a headache!!), I started work back on the finishing of the bartop.
Small problem when I went out into the garage tonight. We've had alot of rain lately and after forgetting that my garage door leaks a little in the corner, and leaving my mdf bottom of the cab on the ground...well you know what happened-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=147427;image)
The edge swelled and I had to recut the piece. I was out of mdf and so opted for 1/2" ply which works better in the long run for attaching everything to it-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=147417;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=147419;image)
After that small mishap, I was able to focus on the priming. After 2 coats of primer I was left with-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=147421;image)
After those two coats were applied, there were still many pin holes from air bubbles in the bondo, so I sanded it back down in those places. I won't spray it again until most of the internals are worked out, just in case I scratch or nick it in the process of fitting things in it-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=147423;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=147425;image)
I was also able to snag a piece of 1/16" aluminum from my brother-in-law this past weekend. I'm going to use this as the back of the cabinet...hopefully! It is surprisingly stiff for being so thin, so it will be an interesting time trying to bend the 'S' of the back into it! I'm toying with the idea of creating a graphic for the back also, since it will be seen. More on that when I get there.
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Comes up a treat after the spray hey? I have a way of dealing with the pinholes. You can end up spraying coat after coat of filler or putty and still have pinholes, I reapply a thin smear of bondo where pinholes are the worst, sand back, and then spray with putty, reinspect and repeat if necessary. It's time consuming but you'll get rid of every last pinhole that way. I'm getting near to my own curved surface challenge, I'm using a slightly different method to your shaped MDF ribs but the results should be similar.
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Ond- Yeah it's a slap in the face after you think it's ready for final coat! Good luck with the curved surface, I'm excited to see what you come up with...I'm sure it will be fantastic much like the rest of your build :cheers:
Not much progress for quite awhile now because of life and new job transitions, but tonight I was able to tinker a little. I went ahead and routed out a circle in the bottom ply piece for the computer sub. The entire cab will be on rubber feet so I'm hoping it will sound decent pointed down close to the front. The pic shows the hole from the inside of the cab. It has a small rabbet in it to accept the rubber gasket around the sub.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=147742;image)
And here it is from outside the cab looking at it-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=147744;image)
I'm still deciding on what type of speaker grill to use to cover this sub and the smaller ones in the curved area, maybe the perforated metal many have suggested in the past...I just need to look around the hardware store to see what I can find.
Next challenge was to begin the bending and forming of the aluminum back for the bartop. It's a little over 1/16" thick so it doesn't like to cooperate when trying to bend, but I was able to use a 3.5" pvc pipe, a 2x4, a workbench, and some clamps to get the job done. It's taken over an hour to get to this point, but it's getting there, the hardest part is keeping the bends parallel with each other and the bends smooth.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=147738;image)
Here is a close up, the clamp is lightly holding the aluminum against the cab side-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=147740;image)
I'm hoping that when I get to the curved top of the cab, my router bit won't have trouble cutting through the aluminum.
On another note I'm struggling to decide if I should update my pc specs before I go any further. The dilemma right away is the monitor connection though. The original connection seems to be labeled as LVDS and it looks like this-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=147746;image)
It connects to the motherboard close to the video card shown here in the pic-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=147748;image)
After doing a little research, I think that there is a LVDS to DVI converter but I'm lost in all of this so I could use some input from you guys. Is it worth it to go this route?
Also, I've been out of the loop when it comes to pc parts and combos...can anyone suggest a reliable build that would include a micro atx motherboard, low profile video card, micro power supply and RAM etc. Main thing is for the parts to be small enough to fit into the cab with it's limited space and to keep the price down (hopefully under $300), the video card and processor don't have to be top notch, just enough to future proof. (core 2 duo or equivalent) I get lost when I go to Newegg to look around so anything you can suggest will be helpful. Something low wattage to keep heat down also would be nice...use your best discretion ;)
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(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=147421;image)
That is sexy!!!!!
great work!!!!! :cheers:
how are you attaching the aluminum?
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Thanks Bender! Hopefully it'll pop even more once the paint goes on!
As far as the aluminum, I'm still contemplating that. Possibly using inserts in the side panels and allen head bolts through the aluminum with a possible piano hinge riveted onto the bottom...I was also thinking about jb welding cam lock handles on the inside of the aluminum, in this way I could access them from the bottom of the cab and it is seamless on the outside of the aluminum. I'm thinking about wrapping the edge of the aluminum with rubber c-channel to finish it off too.
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I've been taking a little break from the build due to life etc but I haven't been completely unproductive. During the break I've ordered a new sata 500gig hard drive, some perforated aluminum metal for the speaker grills etc, and other misc pieces to help complete the build.
One of these extra goodies was a type of carbon fiber vinyl that 3m makes that's suppose to be an outside/inside vinyl that has an actual texture to it to make it look like dry carbon fiber. I received my piece in the mail today-
The piece sent to me-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=148413;image)
A better picture of what the stuff looks like-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=148409;image)
I'm going to use the carbon fiber on the aluminum back once it has all the necessary cutouts and buttons applied.
So I decided to use threaded inserts to attach the back. In this way it will handle all the abuse of taking the panel off and on multiple times since they accept a machine screw. Putting them in was a pain in the rear end because of how close they needed to be to the edge of the plywood, but a clamped a scrap piece of wood on the inside of the cab during that process and it worked fine.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=148421;image)
I decided to use stainless steel screws for their hardness and because they just look nice ;D
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=148419;image)
After working my way around the back by placing the aluminum on the cab and pilot drilling through both, screwing in the insert, attaching the aluminum with that screw, and going to the next one...i ended up with this-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=148417;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=148415;image)
I still need to rout the top of the aluminum back to match the cab but it's close to the rough shape.
I also went to autozone and picked up the door c-channel molding to go around the aluminum back. It will go on at the end after the carbon fiber has been attached etc.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=148411;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=148407;image)
Still contemplating on the paint finish. The satin/flat black would still look good but I'm also considering getting some dupli color out of a can and trying that...we'll see. I still need to get a fan or two for the back so I can cut out the area, and also the power supply attachment section and power button...
Seems like the little purchases will kill you over time!! It's a never ending list of things to buy because you forgot to get them the time before.
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Been following the project but i must Speak and say the work you put into this is phenomenal ty for sharing your extreme Craftsmanship :notworthy:
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Nice idea with the carbon look on the backside.
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I love the panel on the back but I don't love the joint. Is there a way to trim it down so the edges are flush and you don't have to use the c-channel molding? I actually like your beveled tabletop much better. :dunno :cheers:
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crip102468- Thanks for the nice compliment! There are many around that have inspired me and I'm just hoping to give some of the same inspiration back.
emphatic- thnx, it's a little more than paint would have been but it is suppose to be really durable and looks pretty neat in person!
javeryh- I'm thinking of using the channel for a couple reasons. I'm having a hard time matching the aluminum exactly to the side panels, so once the screws are tightened, the channel will fill in the open areas to make it look nice and tight. Another is to keep the vinyl carbon fiber from pealing on the edge in the future. And the last is a vibration insulator to keep the back from rattling when the sub starts bumping etc. These aside, I could maybe look into a nice foam tape to mount on the side panel to accomplish the same thing. The back is nice and flush with the sides so I could just simply wrap the carbon fiber over the edge...
Any suggestions on the joint?
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In the name of god PLEASE stop killing us with every pic you upload.
THIS IS BY FAR THE BEST BARTOP EVER CONSTRUCTED IN OUR GALAXY.
My friend you have talent.
I am looking forward for the final result.
:applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
:applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: X 100000000000000
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javeryh- I'm thinking of using the channel for a couple reasons. I'm having a hard time matching the aluminum exactly to the side panels, so once the screws are tightened, the channel will fill in the open areas to make it look nice and tight. Another is to keep the vinyl carbon fiber from pealing on the edge in the future. And the last is a vibration insulator to keep the back from rattling when the sub starts bumping etc. These aside, I could maybe look into a nice foam tape to mount on the side panel to accomplish the same thing. The back is nice and flush with the sides so I could just simply wrap the carbon fiber over the edge...
Any suggestions on the joint?
This is probably more work than it'd be worth, but when I saw it, my thought was to run a couple layers of fiberglass around that outer edge and then trim it flush with the aluminum. That way the rear panel would be recessed/flush mounted. But after all the sanding and prep work you already did, it may be better at this point to go the route you're already looking at.
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dkssprs- ;D thanks! Stay alive for the final result at least!
joezero- yeah a recessed back sounds nice about now...hindsight stinks sometimes. I'll come back to the panel later, more than likely it'll be something similar to what I have worked up for the ease of finishing.
Not a big update but I worked on the bottom a little this afternoon. I ordered some perforated aluminum (about 1/16" thick 5/32" holes) and will use it for the speaker grills and pc fan covers.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=148514;image)
Then I used my router to make 2 holes near the speaker sub cutout to allow 2 air inlet fans to circulate fresh air.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=148516;image)
The reason I rabbeted out around the bottom of the holes was to allow the screen to set flush with the bottom. I am going to laminate the bottom instead of just painting it to give it more strength and better wear resistance.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=148518;image)
Here is a quick view from the bottom.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=148520;image)
Next step is to work on the back panel again, placing the power button, power connector, fans, etc in their spots.
:banghead: Time to order more stuff online again!
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In case anyone was wondering, I haven't given up on my project, life is starting to get a little crazy. I'm working 3rd shift now and 7 days a week sooo needless to say I've been preoccupied ;D
I have made some small progress though, mainly on the rear panel. The fan holes, power input hole, etc have been cut out and many of the internal components have arrived. I'm still trying to decide on the exact theme of this beast...
Once things settle down at work, I should be right back into the midst of building again.
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good to hear, I was getting a little worried
:pics :pics
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:notworthy: What a great work man, i'm really waiting for the final result !!!! Hope it will be soon !!!! :applaud:
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Fantastic looking project...I cannot believe I haven't seen this before thanks for the link ninja. What size hole did you use for the button jig? 7/8"? 22mm? Do the buttons fit in tight so there's no movement or do you clamp them in place while running through the saw? I would imagine the saw puts quite a bit of force on them.
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I second 'Nuff's comment! I know what it's like to work the 3rd shift as a meteorologist, but in the name of everything holy, finish this thing :) I cannot wait to see those illuminated buttons on this incredible bartop!
:applaud: :notworthy:
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How the heck did I miss this project until now? Looks amazing, another landmark project!
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You know what I hate about this build? The same thing I hate about Ond's build. You guys are CONSISTENTLY raising the bar! How do you expect ANYONE else to compete, when you bring builds like THIS to the table?! Seriously. I hate you guys and your (superior) quality workmanship. Seriously.
/me wrings his hands in angry anticipation of his own build, which will undoubtedly have to become a lot more work to attempt to live up to the enviable heights the bar has now been raised to.
;)
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Good thing we're not in a competition. :)
To reply to my own question, I am guessing you used a 3/4" hole for the jig. That's a tight fit for me for the current happ buttons, I have a bunch of older happ's that are slightly bigger so measurements are slightly off for me sometimes.
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You know what I hate about this build? The same thing I hate about Ond's build. You guys are CONSISTENTLY raising the bar! How do you expect ANYONE else to compete, when you bring builds like THIS to the table?! Seriously. I hate you guys and your (superior) quality workmanship. Seriously.
We are not in 2003 anymore, that's for sure... back then it was all boxy black cabs. I can't wait for when someone posts about their hovering-holo-mame machine in 2015.
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Good thing we're not in a competition. :)
+1. (Hopefully everybody recognizes the winky in my post. Don't take any of my post seriously - I LOVE this build. Besides, it gives a LOT of direction that I'll need for my cab.)
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OMG, this is sooooo AWESOME!!! I love your work :applaud: :cheers:
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Hey ninja, after re-reading through the thread again, I was looking at that feedback I gave you for the artwork and was thinking, how would you feel about removing the soldier guy's head completely?
...and instead, putting an outlined silhouette of 1-3 soldiers striking a pose?
Just brain-stormin' here, but I messed around in photoshop for 5 mins with your art concepts. I figured something more simple might work really well. Anyways, just some more feedback to think about is all...
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Evilnuff-Yeah I pretty sure I used a 3/4" forstner bit for the jig hole, but like you said I think I must have reemed it out a little. I think the actually measurement for the hole should be @ 0.78"+ Then I cut a small piece of dowel to place in the bottom of the button (if it's too loose place the dowel into water for awhile it will swell the end making it tighter) once it was placed in the jig. Don't push the dowel in too far or the blade will hit it while it cuts through the button top (it won't hurt anything, just makes it harder to cut through) I actually had enough room to hold onto the button "legs" while i pushed it through the cut *warning-do at own risk* ;D Hopefully that makes since, if not tell me and I'll make it more clear with pics. As long as you have a sharp blade it cuts through quite easily and I'm sure that with a negative tooth saw blade it would be even easier.
wxforecaster-Thnx! I've concluded it is impossible to get used to this 3rd shift zombie feeling I can't shrug off :dizzy:
Santoro-So many great projects on here I it's easy to overlook anything
Rick-hehe, it helps to have an art and woodworking background! Your project looks VERY promising...very original idea, can't wait to see where it will go!
chris77-thanks! stay tuned in
opt2not-Great idea with the silhouette! I've taken a step back from the artwork but now you've got my head spinning again. I definitely like the simplistic look, I'm considering changing the top section also. Getting rid of the the scratchy look, maybe blacking it out and placing a glowing green silhouette of a map (much like something you would see in a call of duty game cut scene) throughout the whole thing. Keep those ideas coming! I think I might go with a ' Black Ops ' look
Ok so not much of an update again but it's something at least. I'm seriously considering going with the paint that Bender suggested:
http://alsacorp.com/products/softtouch/softtouch.htm (http://alsacorp.com/products/softtouch/softtouch.htm)
It's pricey but I haven't found anything else that I like better, and it would go perfect with the look I'm going for, a rubberlike, flat black finish. I went ahead and applied fiberglass resin on the areas around the screen and marquee to seal and smooth out the mdf edges. Next I began to work on the bottom of the cab. After bondo-ing the edges of the plywood to get rid of the fuzz and shooting some primer and paint on them, I came out with something like this:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=153307;image)
I just laid the screens in there to show how the thing would look. Next I found a piece of scrap laminate that looked nice (burl wood grain) rough cut it, and placed it on top the bottom with the screens...it's all still loose at this point.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=153309;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=153311;image)
Next my attention was focused on getting juice to the motherboard, so I rigged up something to hold my extension cable to the aluminum back I had made. It is simply a piece of ply that I cut out and epoxied the cable onto. Then I countersunk some screws and attached it with lock nuts on the back.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=153313;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=153315;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=153317;image)
That's pretty much it for now. The next few updates will probably be small but at least the ball is rolling again. Attaching all the fans and creating the screens for them will be my next step. I'll try to get a little done this weekend and update it.
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Those screens turned out really nice! I love how you embedded them under the laminate!
Looking sweeeet!
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My calipers measure it at .778" heh so yeah 3/4" plus some sandpaper should be perfect. I never thought about a hole for the smaller diameter piece. I am planning to go with my miter saw which has a negative tooth blade on it. Any suggestions for how to find a place to cut the acrylic? I'm betting thats cheaper than the washers I found. Not sure what to look for though.
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Finally had a couple minutes to work on the beast. Sorry I haven't been more involved lately but still crunching those 7 days a week at work and after family time the glass is empty for hobbies :cry:
Ok so directly in line with OND's amazing finish work on the Astro, I too am in the painting process. Since the last update I've placed a piece of laminate on the bottom of the bartop, bondoed the seam between the laminate and side, sanded and primed, which left me with:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=157680;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=157682;image)
Don't mind the last pic it shows after painting.
After sanding, and sanding, and some more sanding...and after going through a couple cans of primer I was left with a decent surface to paint on.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=157668;image)
A while back I bought a SATA minijet HVLP gun which came in handy during the next process of painting. A quick trip to the local NAPA store to buy some black paint, sandpaper, lacquer thinner, and scotch bright pads. This is the gun and paint I'm using:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=157670;image)
So after applying either the first or second coat, can't remember they all blend together, and sanding down with 400 grit I was left with a couple imperfections. These only showed up after the shiny paint was applied...yay me!
So sanded back down to get rid of most.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=157672;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=157674;image)
After applying another coat, I wet sanded with 600 grit paper, cleaned off and shot I think the 3rd coat. And this is where I am at right now, after 3 coats and alot of patience.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=157676;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=157678;image)
This was immediately after shooting the bartop so it looks a little orange peeled. It has since flattened out quite a bit and doesn't look too bad. I'll probably put one more coat of paint on and then get onto the good stuff...in case I haven't said anything about it yet, I bit the bullet and bought the soft feel clear coat from Alsa corp that I was mentioning earlier in my posts. I'm pretty excited to see what this stuff looks and feels like. I should get a chance to shoot the clear withing the next couple of days. So for now that's it, gotta get ready for work...boy it always gets in the way of our fun doesn't it?!?! :)
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Just wanna say this project is awesome. :applaud: Great attention to detail.
The finish looks great as is without the clearcoat. The end result should look fantastic!
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Great to see you back on this! :applaud:
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man, i may as well throw the towel in. how am i suppose to even come close to the creativity on this forum. sigh if i was not so far in my cab i would stop. laughs. but its good to have the bar set so high.. its motivation in the end.. thanks for sharing.
chris.
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Man this is some fine work here.
Dont feel too bad Jipp, just take a look at some of my projects, Im sure that will make you feel much better about your work. LOL
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looking great!
Can't wait to see the soft feel
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Good and bad news...I was able to decide on how to bake the rubber cleat coat on. I grabbed some 3/4" insulating foam from the local hardware store, lined it with aluminum foil, and seamed it with aluminum tape. When trying to decide on the heat source, I happened to think of how I heat my actual garage. So I turned my ready heater toward the rigged oven and took a feel at how hot it could get inside:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=158220;image)
The next step in the painting process was to shoot two coats of the clear on bartop and place it into the oven to dry:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=158222;image)
Ok so here is where it gets rough...in the beginning of the 'baking' I had the heater a good distance away and all was going well. After moving the heater back and forth to circulate the heat around the arcade, I was running out of time and had to go to work soon, so...I moved it a little closer to quicken the process. This stuff takes a long time to flash off and dry to the touch. That's when the bad news hit, of course, anytime you get in a hurry! The back right hand corner of the bartop, the area where the curve was made with expanding foam, fiberglass, and bondo, pushed out and expanded, from the added heat:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=158228;image)
The rest of the finish looks pretty good:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=158224;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=158226;image)
The finish itself is really nice! It gives a matte finish and does feel rubber like their website said. I think I'm going to scuff it and give it one more coat, given the fact that once I saw the mistake, I touched the area near it and smudged the heated paint :banghead:
As far as the puckering is concerned, I might come up with an external solution, something to place on both sides to camouflage the spot. Suggestions are welcome ;D More on that to come. Next step is to work on the back panel again!
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You did what, and that's a what?!? :o
I swear, i'm envious of you guys and your space. You have the room to do the cool ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---. ;D ;D
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Wow dude. Unreal. That is one of the nicest finishes I've seen. I can't even tell that there is an imperfection or anything either. I love this thing.
When sanding the curved area how did you guide the sander? Is it all just by eye or is there some sort of trick to getting it so perfect? You've got skills. :cheers:
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Man that looks awesome!
What do the directions say about the baking process?
I have a project down the line I'd like to use this on, I think mine is small enough to fit my oven
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opt2not- I wish I did have proper space ;D I'm in a one car garage with a table saw (with extensions of course), a jointer/planer, dust collector, air compressor, shop vac, router table, tools, my old dining room table (used as a work top), misc holiday decor, scrap wood...well you get the picture :dizzy: In the picture you can see the small isle I made through the mess to dry the bartop. I actually shot finish on the piece on top of the table saw! I guess like everyone else I want 'more'
javeryh-thnx! As with most flat paints, because of no reflection and shine, it shows every little thing. That finish is far from perfect, especially with the expanded area where it is puckering now, but it's good enough for the abuse this thing will get from friends and family ;D
As far as sanding the curve, I started out with an electric random orbital sander to get the rough sanding done. Next I simply hand sanded with rough grit and worked my way down to about 120 grit. It is all accomplished by eye and feel. When using a sander on a curve, the main key is to keep the thing moving. 'Never' stop moving it or a flat spot will be created...also don't push on the sander much. Let it do all of the work, you are simply steering the sander.
Bender-I called alsa corp to ask about the whole baking process and if it was needed. The tech guy said I could get away without baking it, but it would probably take up to 10 days to be dry to the touch. Since I'm working in an unheated garage I had to flash it off quick so dust etc would not land in the finish. I think the recommended drying temp is 150 degrees for about 40 min. Take a look near the bottom at the specs on the resin
http://alsacorp.com/products/softtouch/softtouch.htm (http://alsacorp.com/products/softtouch/softtouch.htm)
Is your oven the same you use for food? If it is I would think twice about that...this stuff is super strong smelling when curing like most catalyzed finishes! Might not be too healthy for the house if ya know what I mean >:D
I did give it another two light coats of finish to get rid of the finger smears, and I'm happy with it for now. That finish is strange stuff. Almost impossible to scuff sand because it balls up like sanding a rubber band! The next hard part of the work is attaching the exhaust fans to the back panel. I've come up with an idea to use 3.5" pvs pipe to make the transition but more on that later ;D
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Ninja,
Thanks so much for the info, and for being my guinea pig on this >:D
does the finish seem pretty scuff/scratch resitant?
I cook all types of non-food things in the oven then just run the self clean cycle afterwards and leave the house for a bit
it all makes the bacon tastier ;D
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Bender-so far the finish seems to be pretty tough. On the backside, where there is overspray, I took my fingernail across it. It probably needs to cure some more but it left just a slight scuff mark. I rubbed it once or twice with my finger and it disappeared. This stuff is pretty weird. Next time I post pics I'll show you one of this stuff after it set up in a scrap container. It's about .5" thick and you can't tear it apart...it's flexy but won't tear or break, promising!! I'll keep ya updated on how resistant it is when it's fully cured.
p.s. I was wondering where your third eye was coming from?! :laugh:
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I come in late, ut you can quite easily make a oven of big size using some spare parts.
an old metalic box, thermal gun, thermometer and some other parts.
see pics for details http://id19p.over-blog.com/article-12820140-6.html (http://id19p.over-blog.com/article-12820140-6.html) (french text, but pics are self explanatories)
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zorg-thnx for the link, looks interesting!
Ok not much going on over the holidays with all the chaos and all but I had a chance to work a little more on the artwork for the cpo. I need some feedback on the new design before I move on to the marquee art.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=159105;image)
On a side note, the finish has cured fully and it is still impressing me. It is quite scratch and mar resistant. I would definitely recommend it.
Hopefully construction will resume soon this week on the back panel.
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Well it's been awhile but don't worry I haven't given up on this beast yet...life and work are still just slowing me down. It's my little girls birthday this weekend and I was hoping to get it into a playable condition but...of course I ran out of time. I did want to update you guys with some pics on the progress.
After drilling and counter sinking the back for the misc fan attachments, button, power module etc, I used lock nuts to attach everything so they shouldn't slip down the road and I bondoed over the screw heads:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=162808;image)
When thinking about how to attach the outlet fans to the alum. back, I decided to make some plywood blocks and secure the fans to these. By drilling out the center of the plywood to the same diameter as the back, I was able to find a piece of PVC the perfect size to epoxy into the ply. After screwing the plywood to the alum and letting the PVC stick out a little on the front side of the alum back, I simply sanded the PVC down to make it nice and flush to the curve of the back and bondoed it. Soon after this I used my router to round over the back side on the PVC transition and painted it black.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=162810;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=162812;image)
On the coin insert area, I bought some Neutrik usb ports, predrilled the holes for them, chiseled out the correct depth to make them flush to the plywood, attached them and used some bondo to cover the screw heads etc, sanded the bondo, applied the carbon fiber decal, and superglued 2 o-rings to finish off the over all look of the front:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=162814;image)
Focusing on the bottom- I placed the grills in, attached the sub and fans with screws, contact glued the laminate in place over the screw heads etc, and routed the edge.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=162816;image)
Moving back to the rear panel-After scuff sanding the whole panel and cleaning it off with lacquer thinner, I began to stick the carbon fiber in place. Once the sticker was down, I trimmed it, placed the power button in where it belonged, and very slightly sanded the edges around both fan holes. By sanding the edge, some of the white PVC began to show through and surprisingly enough I really like the way it looked and how it tied the white fan blades into the whole piece so I kept it instead of trying to paint it:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=162818;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=162820;image)
Like I said, sorry I haven't been updating, but like everyone else, life has been hectic. I hope to have the building aspect done within the next week or 2 and then begins the wiring, software, etc. I better get the Advil ready because I know it will be a headache from here out :dizzy:
More to come
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:applaud: That looks great!
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How did I miss this project? This is AWESOME. I'm working on a cabinet right now (I haven't posted about it) and boy does this make me feel like even more of an amateur than I already do.
Great work!
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Any updates? It'd be a shame to not see this thing get finished. Great work!
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I know, it's been TOO long since the last update. Work has been crazy with working the whole 7 days a week thing and the off shift...but I have had a little bit of time to tinker on it. I'm hoping to find a new position of employment soon and that will allow more meee time hopefully for the things that are important like family and hobbies! Regardless, the graphics have been finished, ordered, and have arrived. Some of the internal wiring has been started, etc and I'll hopefully return to posting on the forum very shortly. I want to have the entire bartop completed by the end of the year. Don't give up on it yet!! And thanks for reigniting the interest in the project :cheers: Updates to come soon...
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Can't wait to see!!!
Glad your back at it, even if it's just a little at a time
I've been missing the updates on this!
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Wow, thats a sick(in a good way) cab, outstanding work, awesome, absolutely awesome!
thank you!
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just caught this for the first time after poking around here for fourteen months. Being a slave to the rectilinear, I am totally impressed with the laminate and painting techniques - can't wait for more on this.
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Um wow! Incredible work! Do you have any pics of those nifty buttons of yours lit up at night?
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Sorry about no updates for multiple months guys...man I hate 3rd shift :banghead:
Bender- so have I man, it's been eating me from the inside out not being able to contribute anything to this project for so long.
Shortbus and topjimmycooks- thanks for following the thread and stay tuned
TheShaner-I don't have any pics of the lit buttons yet but I'll be working on those puppies soon enough and will definitely get those night pics when I do
But good news, hopefully I will be able to slowly work on this beast from here out, regardless of how long it takes and how slow I go...progress is better than nothing. So over the long break off, I was able to get the graphics printed out, which included the cp overlay, the marquee, and the joy surrounds (that are actually marquee material, more on that later).
As far as construction, I made a jig for my router and recessed a 1/4" section around the joysticks to make a top plate. This top plate also houses a few LEDs that will mark the standard up-down-left-right positions and will light up the joystick surrounds which have graphics that correspond to these positions. So without further adieu...pic time.
This pic shows the routed recess around the sunken joystick housing that will accept the top plate:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=180230;image)
Next is what the top plates look like from the bottom, where the LEDs are glued and press fit into the plywood. I soldiered extensions wires to the LED leads to give me more room to play with underneath the cab during wiring up:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=180228;image)
This is a pic of the top plate screwed down to the CP and sanded flush with the surrounding area. I still need to bondo the countersinks etc and give it a once over sanding:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=180226;image)
A shot from below the CP and a quick hookup to see if everything still works...it did thankfully. The LEDs are rated at about 3v each, are wired in series with a small resistor and give off about a 1.5v output. I didn't want to push them, I needed to keep the heat down (if any) and didn't need the brightness they gave off at 3v. The power source will be a 12v line:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=180220;image)
Image of the LEDs on and the graphic surround next to it:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=180232;image)
Picture of CP as of now with the surround taped down and lit up with the LEDs:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=180222;image)
Surround being lit up in the dark showing how the graphic matches the light sources coming from the LEDs:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=180224;image)
Ok so like I said I apologize for no updates for so long but I'll try and keep it going, even if slowly, from here out. Next step will be to finish the top plate surrounds, sand the CP smooth and stick the CP overlay on. It feels good to be back in the hobby again :applaud:
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Good god almighty, another one of these professional wood workers is back and building again.
Damn!!!!!
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Very nice work
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Good god almighty, another one of these professional wood workers is back and building again.
There are so many cabinets on here where the craftsmanship is awe inspiring. One thing I have decided is that after my current build (which is hopefully only a few weeks out from being complete), I will definitely be purchasing better tools and aspiring to learn to use them all better.
Keep up the good work, Mr. Squirrel. We are all watching!
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:applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
Welcome back ninjasquirrel. We've been waiting patiently :banghead: :cry: :angry:
Keep us update when possible
:notworthy:
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Innovative as usual, glad to see you're back with it! :applaud:
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So Ninjasquirrel is already calling his 2012 BYOAC award, huh? :applaud:
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I like this project. Good work going on.
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Love the embedded joystick LEDs! Will they be individually controlled? I.E. only P1's joystick LEDs will light up for single player or alternating player games, and only two LEDs light up for 2-way games? Glad to see you're back on this!
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That's a great idea, to align LEDs underneath the artwork. Good to see you back. :cheers:
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Yay, welcome back! :applaud:
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Thanks for all the comments fellas!
As far as the joystick lights go, I haven't decided yet about whether they will be individually controlled. The way they are currently wired in series I would have to do some re-configuring to get them to work properly.
Over the weekend I was able to get the top plates attached, bondoed, sanded, and applied the CP overlay too! Boy that vinyl material is rough once you get some bubbles/wrinkles in it! I actually had to use my wife's hair drier, a piece of wood, and some wood clamps to flatten them out. Then I used a utility knife to cut off the excess, filed the edges smooth and used a sharpie to hide the white edge.
I'll upload some pictures tomorrow once I take some that show the semi-final CP overlay. I still need to trim the inside edges around the marquee and screen, and I think I've come up with a solution on how to hide the chamfered edge around each of these. I think I'm going to try and flock around both of them with some black flocking. The next couple of steps involve deciding on how to make the speaker grills (because they are curved, etc) installing the buttons, making the plexi marquee cover, yada, yada, yada... :dizzy: still a lot to do!
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Here are those pics that I was suppose to post 'tomorrow' ;D
I was pretty happy with the black color match of the overlay and the matte finish of the paint. I'm still trying to find the black flock to surround the marquee and screen.
I've tried to read up on the best adhesive to use for flocking and it seems that simple white glue (PVA) that's thinned down works pretty well. Anyone use the stuff or know what's preferred in that instance?
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=181444;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=181446;image)
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Had the weekend off and I was trying to decide how to approach attaching the joystick surrounds to the cp overlay. I knew I would have to cut out circles in the cp overlay so the LED's would shine through to the joystick surrounds, so my options were to stick a vinyl overlay on top an overlay, cut out a perfect circle in the cp overlay to fit the joystick surround 'in', or come up with a good transition to meld the two. I had some of the light sensitive plexi left over from my buttons so I came up with this:
The first thing I did was use my router to cut out a 4" circle out of 1/2" mdf. Next I cut two blanks out of the green plexi just slightly oversized above 4".
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=181839;image)
Next I marked the center of the plexi, drilled a small hole, attached to the side of my work table with a nail, and used my coping saw (which I use for silversmithing- it has a TINY tooth blade on it and it was melting the plexi right behind itself which made it a pain in the butt to cut out!) to get the generic circles cut out that are also a little oversized:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=181841;image)
I attached these circle blanks to the mdf wood circle and used two screws to keep the plexi from spinning when under force of the router blade:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=181843;image)
This pic shows the generic idea of what I'm trying to accomplish by routing the plexi with the flush trim bit and the template. * Notice before I actually routed the plexi, I attached a larger piece of wood to the top of the mdf to use as a 'handle' to help control the small 4" wood template and keep my fingers away from the bit.*
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=181845;image)
I don't have pics of the following steps, I was getting in a hurry and excited to see if it would work ;D but after the plexi was cut to a perfect circle I put a small 45 degree chamfer on one edge, sanded the edge with progressive sandpaper from 220 to 600, and buffed the sanded chamfer edge with compound to accomplish this:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=181847;image)
It's not the greatest pic, I'll post another later to show the smooth edge, the plexi is extremely light sensitive and glows on edge when the light comes in from the flat top and bottom. This blurred the focus so I'll try again later.
So the whole idea is to stick the joystick surround on top of the plexi and the plexi on top of the cp overlay. The LED's will shine into and through the plexi to light both the edge of the plexi and hopefully go all the way through to the joystick surround image to light the directionals like I talked about before...let's hope so at least! :dunno
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:applaud: Very Awesome result! I need to find a reason to do that on my cab. :P
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Little more done today and hopefully more by the end of the weekend. When trying to find a way to attach the plexi joy surrounds, I decided to epoxy screws to the bottom of them and bolt them into place, at least that was the idea...
I had to find a way to keep them separated from the cp until after the vinyl was attached because I knew that after cutting the sticker out, I would have to clean the edge, sand, buff etc. Well in theory I thought it would work and it did until I tried to bolt it down using lock washers. With just a little force put on the bolt it pulled right off the plexi. But here's what it looked like until then.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=182187;image)
Here's an example of what the plexi looked like after the graphic was attached excess trimmed, filed, sanded, buffed.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=182191;image)
After that little escapade, I decided to use the single bolt left attached to help line the plexi up and simply glued the whole piece down to the top of the CP overlay. I put a heavy piece of steel on top of the joy surround to keep it tight and flush to the cp while it dried. Once those dried, I began to work on the graphic button surrounds.
Here is a quick mock up of what everything will look like.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=182193;image)
A quick night pic of what the joy surrounds look like with the LED's on:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=182197;image)
What they look like in a dim surrounding lit up:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=182199;image)
Going back to the button surrounds...I'm please with how they look, they tie many of the colors of the CP overlay together etc, but I guess when drawing them up, I must have slipped up a little on the last 2 button spacings. On the far right the buttons are slightly off center compared to the graphics...ughh :banghead: my wife just rolls her eyes and said it's not noticeable but I can definitely tell.
As of right now I'm working on wiring the internals including the buttons etc. Slow go from here out.
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Cool stuff! :cheers:
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The joy surrounds are amazing! Well worth the effort! :applaud:
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PICTURE TIME! :)
Today I was able to work quite a bit on some of the nagging issues I still have left on the bartop. I painted the chamfered areas around the marquee and screen as opposed to flocking them like I thought of earlier. Just picked up a spray can of black/grey metallic paint that had a fairly thick texture and used this to finish it off.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=182577;image)
Next came the marquee. After dry fitting the marquee and seeing how the Nova Matrix LEDs look behind the graphic, it seemed to have some 'hotspots' that I didn't care for. So I began to rearrange them to diffuse the light a little better. I also heavy sanded the back piece of plexi, the one the graphic is adhered to, so it became frosted and better at diffusing.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=182569;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=182571;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=182575;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=182573;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=182593;image)
After completing the marquee, I thought about rewiring the one set of buttons I had started..long story, but the short of it is that I daisy chained all the negatives of the LEDs together to run back to the ledwiz and realized that it actually uses a common positive soooo I'm going to have to scrap the first set and rewire them I guess.
Instead of that headache I decided to take a crack at the volume control.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=182579;image)
I wanted the control knob to have the same glow look as the buttons and joysticks so I drilled a 7/8" through hole at the correct spot and epoxied a red piece the reflective plexi into it. I rounded over the edge of the disc and buffed it nice and smooth so it would give the correct effect.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=182581;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=182583;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=182585;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=182591;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=182587;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=182589;image)
I'm not sold on the volume knob. I think it's a little two wide and deep. I might try to find/make a new one so that it doesn't hide as much of the plexi disc and doesn't stick out as far as the one I have on right now.
I suppose at some time I need to think about how the speaker grills will look and how I need to fabricate them. That will be interesting...but for now I guess my next step is to start the wiring...again!
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Good stuff :applaud:, I like the lighted plexi under the volume nob, I can see using that technique under a spinner as well.
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I think that the subtlety of the red glow look very high end consumerish and beautiful. :applaud: Might be the photo though.
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:applaud:
wow... glad to see this project is still alive! i was following this one so long ago.
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I don't know how I missed this project until now!!! Holy crap that is good work and plenty of attention to detail.
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I applaud your attention to detail for this Bartop the results are simply outstanding. What type of hardware specs are you planning on putting in this machine? Also I agree with you that the volume knob looks a bit too big, maybe better if it were a tad smaller and black instead of silver.
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With USB wires in those USB slots, a knob too small will be of little use.
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a knob too small will be of little use.
That's what she said....
:duckhunt :duckhunt :duckhunt :duckhunt :duckhunt :duckhunt
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darthpaul-thanks, and yes I think it would look very slick under a spinner. I'm still trying to decide whether I want to tie the led for the plexi into the stereo pot somehow to adjust the brightness with the movement of the volume knob.
emphatic-it does have a nice glow, not too bright or over powering, and that's a good point about the USB cables. Good news is that I won't have the cables plugged in very much at all unless multiple people are over wanting to play the old console games.
swaffer, Hi-TEK, Pinball Wizard-thanks for following fellas! I have an older Pentium 3 I'll be putting in there...very seriously considering rethinking this and upgrading the whole brains. Problem will be finding small enough components and finding the correct adapter for my monitor to plug into a new motherboard. Pinball Wiz... :laugh2:
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Watching with pregnant anticipation!!
:applaud:
AJ
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So I've been doing alot of research on hardware components because I'm thinking about upgrading the internals of the bartop. There are a few main concerns when looking for these pieces...size and heat/wattage consumption. First off I have VERY little room inside the arcade given the fact that the thing was made around a given set of components. I had to look at mini-itx motherboards, low profile video cards, and worst off the PSU :banghead: It was extremely hard trying to find one that will fit and still output a decent amount of wattage to power the processor and newer video card. So I think I've come up with a combo of parts that could work nicely in this build and give me power to run anything I would need including the newer fighters etc. (Street Fighter 4 vs...) and just in case I want to, later create an HTPC out of these parts!
See what you guys think and please give me any input you can on improvements for low wattage/size/price/performance...
Motherboard - ASRock H77M-ITX LGA 1155 Intel H77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Mini ITX Intel Motherboard
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=183460;image)
Processor - Intel Core i3-2100 Sandy Bridge 3.1GHz LGA 1155 65W (would like to have more here but this thing only pulls 65w verses the i5 95w)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=183462;image)
Power Supply - SILVERSTONE ST45SF 450W SFX12V (I was also considering the Athena 550w but I'm not sure of the brand and I like that this one has a single 36A 12V rail, should be plenty for what I need)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=183468;image)
RAM - G.SKILL Sniper Low Voltage Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=183464;image)
Video Card - PowerColor AX6750 1GBD5-LHG Radeon HD 6750
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=183466;image)
Like I said if anyone has any better ideas and maybe a better cooling system that could possibly fit inside the build please feel free to post. It's been ALONG time since I last built one of these from the ground up and I'm out of the loop with all the chipsets etc now :dizzy:
Over the last week I also designed and had a buddy of mine mill out a solid aluminum volume knob to replace the one I previously pictured, more pics of that later...nothing crazy, just simple and sleek.
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If you're dropping that money into it you might as well water cool. That way you can still have your i5
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wanimal-that's kind of what I was thinking as long as I could find one at the right price and size. I might even give a go at making the water block myself just need to do a little research on it.
Here's another question...I have my LCD screen stripped down and I found a distributor in China that makes an LCD controller board that will turn bare screens into desktop PC monitors (laptop screens, etc) Here's the link to their store on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5451-Audio-LCD-Controller-logic-Board-LVDS-DVI-VGA-DIY-/270962136382?pt=US_Server_Boards&hash=item3f169a153e (http://www.ebay.com/itm/5451-Audio-LCD-Controller-logic-Board-LVDS-DVI-VGA-DIY-/270962136382?pt=US_Server_Boards&hash=item3f169a153e)
The description calls for a 12v 4a power adapter to juice the board. I tried to email them to see if there was an adapter to convert an ATX 6 pin cable to the desired DC input on the board. I'm not sure that they understood because they just gave me a link to the power adapter that they sell.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Adapter-Supply-Especially-our-LCD-controller-boards-US-cord-12V-4A-/270953905792?pt=Laptop_Adapters_Chargers&hash=item3f161c7e80 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Adapter-Supply-Especially-our-LCD-controller-boards-US-cord-12V-4A-/270953905792?pt=Laptop_Adapters_Chargers&hash=item3f161c7e80)
Is there a way that you guys know how I could tap the power coming from an ATX power supply to use to power the controller board? Maybe isolate the 12v and ground wires on one connection of the ATX, cut the end off the appropriate 4mm DC connection and wire them together? :dunno
Any ideas?
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So their power adapter is only $7.50, which is pretty cheap compared to your LCD panel and their controller. Can you pull that from an ATX power supply? It depends on the PS and it's thresholds. For instance this PS on New Egg shows what it's rated at (Output= +3.3V@30A, +5V@30A, +12V@62A, -12V@0.8A, +5VSB@3.0A - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139021&cm_sp=Cat_Power_Supplies-_-Spotlight-_-17-139-021 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139021&cm_sp=Cat_Power_Supplies-_-Spotlight-_-17-139-021))
In that instance, and from my limited PS knowledge the -12V is what you would need, and since it can only provide .8Amps you would be out of luck. The one thing you can look for is Laptop Adapters. They are often 12-20 V and 2-4 Amps.
So in short, I wouldn't recommend pulling that much Amperage through an ATX PS on the 12vdc but if someone with more electrical knowledge trumps me then so be it.
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The board needs +12V at 4 amps so an ITX supply can easily supply the power off of one the the molex disk drive connectors. 12V yellow Gnd Black.
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Thanks for the input kahlid74 and BobA. I was hoping it would be the +12V because there is plenty of amps available from the ITX PSU I was considering buying (from a couple posts up 36A 12V Silverstone) I guess I'll scavenge the 4mm dc plug from the numerous wall warts that I have and solder the yellow 12v and black ground from the ITX drive cable onto it.
The whole purpose of this is to eliminate the wall wart (power adapter) that the company is trying to sell, since there is no extra room inside my bartop.
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Be careful with the controller boards for bare LCDs. There are thousands of bare LCD screens and each one uses a different controller. Double check that your sepecific screen will work with the controller before you buy. Not only the controller but the inverter and cable between the panel are also factors. There should be a screen manufacture and model number on the back. Just double check. I got caught a few years back with cheap panels and expensive controllers that didn't work. I ended up buying an inexpensive PC monitor and decasing it.
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Progress bump?
Your joystick lighting inspired me to do something similar with mine...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=187502)
Thanks for the motivation, can't wait to see your project finished!
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Thanks for giving this one a bump.
Somehow I have been missing this one for the last 2 years.
Great looking project, would love to see completion.
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Yeah it's been way too long with no progress pics :embarassed:
Nice subtle lighting on the CP nephasth, looks good!
Welcome aboard mgb, and don't worry it will be completed before the end of the year no matter what it takes.
Since the last post I've been trying to work on the bartop a little here and there, but I've recently had a second child and still working third shift so like everyone else, hobby takes a back seat to life...but the good news is that it will be completed by Christmas! :applaud: If I can come up with a little extra cash I will be updating the pc hardware inside, probably to what I listed a few posts up.
Right now I'm still working on the speaker surrounds and grill, I want them nice and clean so it's taking a few efforts to get the look I'm going for. It's sooo close to being completed as far as construction goes so I can see the light but this is probably where it slows down. I'll try and post progress in a week or two, thanks for refreshing my motivation in the project!
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Quit whining and get back to work. :angry: :soapbox:
Seriously, though, this thing is turning out awesome!!! I'm always amazed with the creativity on this site.
AJ
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Progress.... :applaud:
Well Christmas came early this year!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=272008;image)
I thought this setup would be plenty strong enough for all that I would need, including newer games like street fighter vs tekken etc, and later I can upgrade what I see fit. Good news is that all this fits nicely with some room to spare actually inside the bartop (at least compared to the old setup)
Finally I was able to come up with an option for my speaker grills that I was happy with. I made a speaker frame surround template out of 1/2" MDF and secured some aluminum to it. After routing and cleaning up the aluminum, I bent/formed it to the exact shape needed to fit on top of the area where the speakers go.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=272004;image)
I was browsing the local hardware store and happened upon a thin aluminum mesh used to patch rusted out sections of autos...it was perfect! I have been scheming on a way to put some form of mesh inside the aluminum frame that I could actually round over the transition inside the frame, much like that seen on cars speakers etc. This patch was ideal, it was thin enough to conform to the shape I wanted, had a sticky back on it already, was meshed for sound...another Christmas gift ;D
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=272006;image)
So after shaping, cutting, and painting the 2 pcs, and deciding to hide the attachment screw countersinks with the carbon fiber sticker I have been using elsewhere, here's what I have:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=272002;image)
And finally after it was installed on the bartop itself:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=272010;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=272012;image)
I'm pretty happy with the way it came out, I just hope someone playing a game after it's finished doesn't get too mad and take it out on the grills, they might not like too much punishment.
I have put the PC together (dry fit) but haven't installed it within the arcade, so the next step is to start the wiring of everything inside. Here's where things slow down. Should be able to get close to finishing construction over the holiday weekend and will post pics of progress as they come.
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This is a really interesting build, great use of different textures, materials and colour. Wasn't sure about a Blops theme but it suits it down to the ground. Nice one :cheers:
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SpaceHedgehog-thnx for the comments, I'm glad the theme fits was kinda worried about it too
Ok so I've started to ram all the guts into this beast and even with the small form factor components it is CRAZY tight. We're talking very few inches anywhere of wasted space.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=272611;image)
First off I needed to find a way to power the 4 pc fans, led marquee, LCD, motherboard parts and speaker system. Because I had 2 fans in the back plate, and two fans on the bottom, I needed a way to quick connect all the 12v power to these pieces. So I went to the local elect store and picked up some RCA phone ends (soldier kind) and decided to use these for a connection for the power. I also had an old molex female connector and used this tap into the power from my new power supply. Everything runs off of 12v so it made it neat and clean, even the monitor! The molex went straight to a barrier strip where it branched into the various RCA ends.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=272613;image)
After hooking everything up and crossing every finger/toe, I decided to give the monster some power....SUCCESS! No sparks/fire yet. I did have one problem right away though. I was getting horrible feedback from my speaker system and I'm trying to trace it back now. Here is how the 1/8 stereo end looks after soldiering it and the stereo pot. I thought everything looked right, but even with the feedback I was able to use the stereo pot knob, only it pushed the sound from the left side to the right. Must be a simple mistake but my brain hurts to figure it out. Does anyone know what could be going on here?
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=272615;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=272617;image)
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I not so good with audio equipment, but static on an amplifier is usually caused by unshielded wires or being close to an AC source\cord. I am sure someone will chime in that has more knowledge on this subject.
I solved a similar issue on my nephews mini cab build by placing the audio input wires on the other side of the cab's panel as it was 1\4 of an inch away from the Power strip as it had to travel down to the PC.
Good Luck! Looking spiffy. What made you choose the black ops theme?
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Yeah. +1. Usually, the interferance is caused by A/C near the audio D/C equipment.
AJ
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CoryDee and mcseforsale- I think you guys are right with the first statement. When I soldered the audio input wires to the 3.5 mm connectors, I used just normal 20 gauge wire for the 3 contacts. They were not shielded (or double shielded would be better) so I think this is where the problem is. I'm in the process right now of finding a good quality 3.5mm to 3.5mm male ends to use.
Wally'world actually has a very nice set of stereo RCA phono cables that look to be possibly double shielded, so another option would be phonos to y split down to 3.5mm on both ends, but this seems overkill, too many physical connections. I just have to see what I can find at Rat Shack today.
As far as the theme goes...I know I could have gone the traditional way of arcade characters etc, but I wanted to go outside the box a little bit and I knew from the start that many of the components I had envisioned (modern tweaks with lights, lit joy surrounds, carbon fiber look, matte finish) and the fact I've always enjoyed playing the call of duty series, FPS's, etc along with the classics, it just kind of made sense to go with the black ops look...
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IMHO, this is one of the nicest bartops I've seen on this site. :applaud: I'll be doing a couple of bartops in the near future and they won't be nearly as ambitious as this. The creativity is awesome and the execution superb. Being a quasi-newb here, I love seeing people using their creativity, along with their experience on these things.
AJ
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This is simply amazing!
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Thanks for the compliments guys, I just wish it hadn't taken me sooo long to get this point!
Well good news, I went and bought a new 3.5m to 3.5m shielded cable from the local electric store, and so far so good. I took the stereo pot out of the equation and just ran the cable from the amp input to the music source (in this case a ipod shuffe) the humming was gone and the volume wasn't too crazy. It was easy enough to use the volume on the player itself to control the overall volume.
Tonight I was also able to solder and wire all of player 2's LEDs, so maybe another free night or two this week and the buttons will all be wired up. Tedious work, but fulfilling once you see sections finished.
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Well good news... I have FINALLY finished the build and am in the process of tweaking the software. I was actually able to finish construction and test run it the weekend of the 15th, I had no choice, that was my family Christmas get-together so we had to entertain the kids somehow ;D
There are a couple small touches that need to be addressed. The volume knob still needs to be wired in line along with the backlight for it, vinyl stickers for the coin insert buttons need to be made and applied, etc. As far as the software goes...let the headache begin. I have hyperspin running on it right now with ledblinky in the background. A couple of issues there but I will address them in the blinky thread I guess. The still snaps, boxart, and wheel art have been downloaded for both SNES and NES console systems but no video snaps as of yet. I had to use Clrmamepro to sync all the artwork with the correct ROM names (interesting trying to figure all that mess out) When it comes to MAME, I used romlister to make a more refined list, renamed the mame.xml file in the databases folder in hyperspin to mame2 and named my newly created list mame.xml. This worked to load the refined .xml as the main list but is there a better way?
Things that I need help with or questions that I haven't answered yet, feel free to comment on your experience-links, posts, pics, etc:
1. wheel art for mame games? don't know if the hyperspin ftp has many of them (haven't checked on their forum yet)
2. need a good tutorial on making themes (last time i played with frontends without a cab i was using mala, liked the freedom of it, but wanted to try hyper for awhile) kind of want a less distracting generic theme to display video snaps etc but without the 'wheel' look
3. anyway to get ledblinky to work in zsnes or nestopia? (again haven't tried the blinky thread yet, just getting a jump start while it's on my mind right now)
And yes, I haven't taken final pics yet, but I will this week before i get stoned for an update without pics >:D
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Can't wait to see the final pics! :applaud:
3. anyway to get ledblinky to work in zsnes or nestopia? (again haven't tried the blinky thread yet, just getting a jump start while it's on my mind right now)
If you are running any non-MAME emulators, click the "Controls Editor" option on the "Tools" menu. This app will allow you to configure the controls, colors, voices, and input codes for the FE or any emulator or game. Unlike MAME, other emulators must be configured manually. If an emulator or game is not configured, no controls will light up. You can also define default colors/intensities and define controls as 'Always On'.
Configuring Other Emulators (not MAME)
This is a manual process. Since there is no way for LEDBlinky to know the control-input mapping (button assignments), or specific controls, or button colors for each emulator or individual game, you must provide the information manually using the LEDBlinky Controls Editor.
LEDBlinky and the Controls Editor provide a number of features to ease the configuration of emulators and games. Each time you play an unknown game (one for which no unique controls are defined), the Emulator and ROM/Game name is stored. From the Controls Editor import menu, you can display the list of unknown games and select which you wish to import. You can then define the controls. Controls for player 1 can be copied to players 2, 3, and 4. If the controls for one game are similar to another, you can copy the entire ROM/Game.
It is not necessary to define the controls for every game - using the Controls Editor you can define a default set of controls for each emulator (or even a default for all emulators).
A full description on how to use the Controls Editor is provided in the Installation and Configuration Guide (pdf).
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1. wheel art for mame games? don't know if the hyperspin ftp has many of them (haven't checked on their forum yet)
Yep they have a lot I think my wheel art count stands at about 6,000+. Get yourself a platinum membership and use HyperSync to pull everything down for your list, it's worth it. Also you can do the same over at EmuMovies with their downloader
2. need a good tutorial on making themes (last time i played with frontends without a cab i was using mala, liked the freedom of it, but wanted to try hyper for awhile) kind of want a less distracting generic theme to display video snaps etc but without the 'wheel' look
There's a little application for making themes in Hyperspin at the web site, it's pretty easy to use, I've made a few here and there although it's been a while so I couldn't write you a how-to, check it out in their downoads section.
3. anyway to get ledblinky to work in zsnes or nestopia? (again haven't tried the blinky thread yet, just getting a jump start while it's on my mind right now)
I just set LED Blinky to use my default template for other emulators, so the buttons just stay lit the colors I chose for my cab layout, didn't bother doing an animation just a static color set.
Also I had to turn of 'button flash' on LEDBlinky as it was lagging the heck out of my games, something to be aware of
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Nephasth and griffindodd-thnx for the help fellas, I'm still working on getting all my emulators to look all fancy with led's and all but I'm definitely pointed in the right direction now.
Ok, sorry it took so long with the holidays and all but here are a couple pics of the fully constructed bartop! I will take some more within the next day or two with the buttons, marquee, joy surrounds, etc lit up and looking all fancy and all ;D If you guys have any questions about the final construction since I kind of skimmed past the progress pics during the last phase, just let me know and I'll clarify the best I can.
I wrapped the aluminum back with automotive door trim and mitered the corners. It closes up any little gap I had between the back and side pieces after screwing it all together...I was quite happy with the way it actually came together.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=274756;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=274758;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=274760;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=274762;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=274764;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=274766;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=274768;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=274770;image)
The last pic shows the bottom with the attached rubber bumper feet, this elevates the whole bartop to allow both airflow in through the two fans and the base speaker to pump it's sound down (gives a nice thud during the low base hits >:D)
Thanks to all for keeping up with the build and keeping me motivated during the on going drawn out process. It's not completely finished, but it's definitely playable...ok so that's all I do now, I won't lie! I should have finished every little thing on it before I made it playable ;D
Like I said I'll post lit up pics this week to show what the thing looks like in all it's glory, so keep checking back!
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Amazing.
Just amazing.
Nominate for mame-y. Any seconds?
AJ
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WOW. Really cool. Nice work! :cheers:
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Amazing.
Just amazing.
Nominate for mame-y. Any seconds?
AJ
Second!
Was worried you weren't going to finish/or post finished pics. Glad you came back. Great job. Looking forward to seeing it fully lit.
:cheers:
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:applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
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Great work. The styling and shape of your bartop are very innovative and really stand out. :applaud: :applaud:
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.
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Thanks to all for keeping up with the build and keeping me motivated during the on going drawn out process. It's not completely finished, but it's definitely playable...ok so that's all I do now, I won't lie! I should have finished every little thing on it before I made it playable ;D
Like I said I'll post lit up pics this week to show what the thing looks like in all it's glory, so keep checking back!
Since this was posted yesterday (1/1/2013), and he specifically said it's not completely finished, it's not eligible for this year's UAC Awards. Next year, though, I expect it to sweep the category.
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Congrats on finishing! I don't think the photos do it justice though. :cheers:
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A most excellent build, well done Sir, I tried to nominate you for the bartop awards but because you've been such a Sally Slackass you'll have to wait until next year now :laugh2: (when you'll get my vote again)
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Somehow I hadn't been following this build- it looks fantastic! Really nice, sleek design. :cheers:
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Really nice work. I particularly like the slimness on the vertical part housing the monitor and way you've presented the marquee and the monitor at the front. I also like the matte finish. Great job all round :cheers:
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Well lookie-here, it's finished! Congrats man, it looks great. :applaud:
Can't wait to see pictures of it fully lit and running!
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Thanks for all the compliments fellas! It took long enough :banghead: but I'm glad I'm just down to the finishing touches...it's almost bitter sweet though too. Once one of these cabs are done and you realize it's possible to bring it to life and everything works, it feels like you need to build another just for fun!! I believe I've definitely been bitten by the bug...
And yes the cab is complete as far as anyone besides me could tell but here is a list of the things I need to complete by THIS WEEKEND (gave myself a deadline so it will get done ;)
1. Wire a mic/headphone jack into the back of the bartop so that the wifey doesn't complain I'm blasting the classics too loud(I have one from an old comp that plugs into the motherboard audio header, gotta see if everything lines up but I should be ok)
2. Wire the volume control/stereo pot inline with the stereo audio cable (and hope the static doesn't come back)
3. Replace the normal coin buttons on the front of the panel with the red illuminated ones (still have to make 1 more)
4. Tap into the 5v rail to light the red plexi that backlights the volume knob
But besides those few tiny things and the never ending tweaking of software, the book is almost closed. Many have said it in the past, but I agree that the journey is as much fun as the destination when it comes to something like this.
I'll get those pics by this weekend and will have those few last issues resolved.
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I hear ya. I just finished a build for a family member, dropped it off for x-mas weekend and now I'm bored. I'm gonna build a weecade and sell it to one of my friends who keeps bugging me. "You know, I'm getting the basement finished and one of these would be excellent.". YEAH RIGHT! Pay Up Sucka! No more working for free.
AJ :angry:
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So awesome to see this finished up
One of my favorite builds
Great work! :cheers: :cheers:
I know I asked awhile ago but I'm curious how the rubber finish holding up now?
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Thanks Bender and the finish is amazing! It is an automotive finish so it's made to resist heat, cold, chemicals, scratches, scuffs, etc. Besides the price, I have no complaints at all. If you've ever painted with a flat paint as opposed to a eggshell or gloss finish, you'll know that it gets 'dirty' easier because of the slight texture but it is simply to give one quick wipe with a damp cloth and all is good. If you're looking for this type of finish, I would definitely recommend this product, I am very pleased. And the best part is it feels like velvet...oooh plush!
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Alright so over the last couple of days I think I've finished my checklist, except for number 2. I think I'm going to try and modify a griffin powermate to make this process cut and dry...sort of.
1. Wire a mic/headphone jack into the back of the bartop so that the wifey doesn't complain I'm blasting the classics too loud(I have one from an old comp that plugs into the motherboard audio header, gotta see if everything lines up but I should be ok)
2. Wire the volume control/stereo pot inline with the stereo audio cable (and hope the static doesn't come back)
3. Replace the normal coin buttons on the front of the panel with the red illuminated ones (still have to make 1 more)
4. Tap into the 5v rail to light the red plexi that backlights the volume knob
Without a long winded explanation, here are the money shots with all the LEDs on and the thing blazing with all it's glory. If you look closely at the first pic in the lower right hand corner you can see the newly installed mic/headphone jack (having a few issues with the jack sensing but easy to bypass manually).
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=275006;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=275022;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=275024;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=275026;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=275028;image)
This pic shows the custom volume knob I made (the o-ring hides the set screw to attach it to the stereo pot shaft)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=275030;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=275016;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=275018;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=275020;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=275012;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=275014;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=275008;image)
After all of the construction is where I want it to be, I've been working hard on the software. So far I have MAME, Snes, Nes setup on hyperspin with game vids, etc. All three have scanlines applied for authenticity, I've eliminated the loading ROM description writing in Nestopia and ZSnes (had to use a .exe editor for Nestopia ! ) and soon will have dreamcast and atari 2600 hopefully up and running. I still need to play with ledblinky for the console emulators but all in due time. If you guys have any questions about anything I've done during the build etc just get with me and I'll do my best to help out. I may keep the thread open for a little while longer until the software is closer to being finished so I can get help from you all.
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Very nice.
:applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
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Those buttons are...they're...sniff...beautiful! :applaud: :notworthy:
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Those buttons are...they're...sniff...beautiful! :applaud: :notworthy:
Hey you, stop wasting time posting on completed builds and get back in that garage and start speederbike welding or it gets the hose again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Oh and BTW Squirrel. Your photos are total arcade cab porn.
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This looks amazing with all the LEDs lit up! :applaud:
My only complaint is the white player start buttons. Black player imprinted buttons given the same treatment as the rest of your buttons (perhaps with white discs instead of green or red) would really polish this thing off.
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lovely :applaud:
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Great looking bartop. One of the best. Have to agree that the white player buttons would look alot better in black with some sort of light treatment. :applaud: :applaud:
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It's funny how during a build many small things can distract you from a larger picture. I agree with you guys 100 percent about the player buttons :banghead: Just kind of overlooked that, worrying about everything else. Going with what Nephasth and BobA were saying, I'm thinking about replacing the white with some extra black concave ones I have...what do you guys think about the lighting? Go with a red disk, green, smoked, clear?? I also had an idea of cutting out a player graphic on the top of the push button and lighting it from behind ( so instead of the white button with a black player character, they would be black with the character physically cut out and lit from behind)
Thoughts?
On the same note, I think I ran out of led outputs on my ledwiz so I might have to keep the player buttons lit all the time if I go that route.
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As far as your LEDWiz dilemma, maybe hook up your player button LEDs to the same outputs respectively as your coin button LEDs?
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Black player imprinted buttons given the same treatment as the rest of your buttons (perhaps with white discs instead of green or red)
Nep nailed it -- use white discs w black imprint buttons.
Lighting through the player imprint will be way more effort and probably not work as well as you'd like, but if you have a spare button to fiddle with . . . :dunno
Scott
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If you can find someone local with a cnc router, have the player silhouette cut out of the button. Then use the craft melt-able clear plastic (or opaque) used for stained glass crafts. Melt it and pour it into the cap of the button and then sand off and polish the tops. Might work... lol
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WOW ! I mean,,,,WOW :notworthy:
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Thought about this build today. Have you gotten a chance to tackle your player buttons?
This is by far, my favorite bartop. :applaud:
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I was following this thread for the longest time, but somehow missed its completion. Thanks to the 2013 BYOAC User Choice Award thread, I saw your nomination and caught up with the final product. VERY impressive. Best of luck in the awards. I'm sure you'll have some stiff competition from quizz_kid's R-Kaid Revelation. I'm honestly torn between the two.
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True that. I think this thing should sweep most categories.
AJ
I was following this thread for the longest time, but somehow missed its completion. Thanks to the 2013 BYOAC User Choice Award thread, I saw your nomination and caught up with the final product. VERY impressive. Best of luck in the awards. I'm sure you'll have some stiff competition from quizz_kid's R-Kaid Revelation. I'm honestly torn between the two.
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Thanks for the recognition guys! I've been out of the game for awhile now, off and on this whole year, but I'm getting the itch pretty bad to start another project so keep a lookout for something coming out this year ;D
swaffer- I hear ya...R-Kaid made a fantastic machine, breaking out of the 'normal' idea of an arcade, I was quite impressed. We'll see how it goes down :dunno
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Thanks to all for keeping up with the build and keeping me motivated during the on going drawn out process. It's not completely finished, but it's definitely playable...ok so that's all I do now, I won't lie! I should have finished every little thing on it before I made it playable ;D
Like I said I'll post lit up pics this week to show what the thing looks like in all it's glory, so keep checking back!
Since this was posted yesterday (1/1/2013), and he specifically said it's not completely finished, it's not eligible for this year's UAC Awards. Next year, though, I expect it to sweep the category.
So close
Would nominate/vote again ;)
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So close
Would nominate/vote again ;)
It's eligible. Make sure you vote for it come February! I know I will.
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Oh and BTW Squirrel. Your photos are total arcade cab porn.
yeah unbelievable work :notworthy:
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This thing is spectacular, very original and unique design. Can't say enough...wow. :notworthy:
BG.
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Incredible workmanship! I love it.
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This is by far the best bartop arcade I've seen. Very impressive. :applaud:
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This is by far the best bartop arcade I've seen. Very impressive. :applaud:
Make sure you go vote for it!