Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: micro571 on July 28, 2003, 01:57:55 pm
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I had an Electrohome GO7 monitor working and everything and it was working out ok with ArcadeOS when the flyback transformer blew.
I looked around and got a 20" computer monitor very cheap to replace it. The monitor casing and everything is too big to fit into the cabinet so I need to make some wires longer so that the chasis part can site at the bottom of the cab.
My question is - Can I cut the flyback transformer wire to make it longer? I'd use heavy duty cord - but I need to know if that would permanently screw the monitor or if it would work.
Any advice would be helpful.
BTW - you can get a cap kit and flyback for the GO7 for $28. The monitor is for sale if anyone's interested.
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I'll go out on a limb here, I don't think you can successfully cut and splice the high voltage wire between the flyback and the CRT.
On the other hand, it might be possible to remove the case and come up with new mounts for the chassis that will fit in the cabinet without cutting anything. Here's an example of doing this for a rotating monitor setup. http://lillypad.4mg.com/lillypad/rotatepad.html (http://lillypad.4mg.com/lillypad/rotatepad.html)
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I had an Electrohome GO7 monitor working and everything and it was working out ok with ArcadeOS when the flyback transformer blew.
I looked around and got a 20" computer monitor very cheap to replace it. The monitor casing and everything is too big to fit into the cabinet so I need to make some wires longer so that the chasis part can site at the bottom of the cab.
My question is - Can I cut the flyback transformer wire to make it longer? I'd use heavy duty cord - but I need to know if that would permanently screw the monitor or if it would work.
Any advice would be helpful.
BTW - you can get a cap kit and flyback for the GO7 for $28. The monitor is for sale if anyone's interested.
You do realize that it is cheaper and easier to replace the flyback than it is to switch over to a PC monitor.
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You cannot splice into a HV lead. Any crack in HV insulation or use of regular wire can lead to arcing of the HV circuit to the nearest ground. HV electricity does not follow the normal rules when it comes to insulation. Since the HV lead is ususally permanently attached to a flyback you cannot replace the whole piece with new HV wiring.
There are products to cover cracks in the insulation of HV circuits but I have never tried them and do not know if they work. These maybe available where they sell chemicals used in TV repair.
BobA
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I used a 20" computer monitor in my cab. Removing the outer casing saved a few inches off the depth but it still sticks out the back a little. Still it seems easier to modify the cab than the monitor.
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Ok. Thanks for the tips. I'll have to try and work something out then. Hopefully I can replace all the non HV wires with longer ones to be able to have the chasis more or less seperate.
I removed the convering as soon as I got the monitor and it'll be quite a challenge getting it into the cabinet.
As for the comment about the price - I got the monitor for $51cdn on ebay and picked it up. With shipping, the flyback would be more expensive than the monitor that I bought. Also, I was having resolution problems with Mame and I'm not 100% sure that the flyback is the only problem. The flyback is oozing black stuff now and I'm not sure if other components would need to be replaced.
I've got an older 14" monitor. I might splice the Flyback and see if it works. If it doesn't, I might be able to see some nice blue arches =) Hopefully nothing will start on fire.
That's what this whole project is all about. Trying new things and being creative. Being creative with 100 000 volts might be fun...or deadly. I'll be careful.
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I'll be careful.
you'll be dead!
(sorry the SW geek in me couldn't pass on the opportunity to say that)
Rampy