The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Everything Else => Topic started by: yotsuya on November 23, 2017, 09:04:32 pm
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Use this thread to post Arcade-related 3D printed projects, .stl files, and more. Let’s keep the other thread for support questions. This one is strictly for arcade stuff.
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Subbing, thanks
I am excited to see what everyone comes up with.
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Namco guncon (not mine)
(http://www.aipos3d.com/sites/default/files/styles/3d_images_thumb_new/public/3d-models/7008768221024.jpeg?itok=2qWuyU5f)
https://sketchfab.com/models/fb47fae605f64e8f95a49a0ee7a9dcc7
If anyone is interested to finish it to be used with the Aimtrak electronic kit...
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i have no pictures of it, but i did print some replacement arcade button nuts from a thingiverse download.
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Should we post other CNC stuff? I have a bunch of laser files I made for builds.
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Not really arcade, but here's the easy Gameboy style controller sleeve I made for my phone (Blu Life One X2).
The back would need to be resized to fit other phones. If I did it over again, I'd make the bottom flat so it could stand on it's end.
Links to tinkercad files are in this post:http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,152133.msg1596901.html#msg1596901 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,152133.msg1596901.html#msg1596901)
Instructions are on the following posts.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=353846;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=353848;image)
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Anything video game related is cool here.
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I printed a nut shaver with my 3D printer but I cant seem to find the file at the moment...
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I printed a nut shaver with my 3D printer but I cant seem to find the file at the moment...
if it's the one with the serrated blade do everyone a favor and not post it.
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I printed a nut shaver with my 3D printer but I cant seem to find the file at the moment...
Gillete or Braun?
Seriously wtf is a nut shaver??
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I printed a nut shaver with my 3D printer but I cant seem to find the file at the moment...
Hook a brother up. I dont own a razer so i steal my wifes for my bag and ass, then put it back and dont tell her.
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Go fog up the Chuff thread with your nutsack tales. This is for 3D printing.
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I printed a nut shaver with my 3D printer but I cant seem to find the file at the moment...
if it's the one with the serrated blade do everyone a favor and not post it.
My nuts or the razor?
C'mon Yots. The day one thread stays on track Im taking my cleanly shaven joystick and leaving.
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Edge connector keys
Molex/other electrical connectors
Molex pin removal tool
Button hole plugs
Marquee retainers
Monitor neck bubbles (like on Gorf)
Gorf/Tron/SH joystick handles
Custom joystick restrictor plates
Various joystick shaft spacer sleeves
Anycoin mechs
"Next" quarter trays
C-clips
Wire harness clips
Vent grilles
Speaker grilles
Lots of things to print...
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Universal PCB standoffs
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2201781
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Metal control panel button hole fillers
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2010405
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Arcade Coin Holder
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2459092
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Arcade Joystick Dustwasher
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2630367
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JAMMA Edge Cover
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1630827
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Organizer for JDBailey
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1255964
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Metal control panel button hole fillers
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2010405 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2010405)
I need these. Button hole plugs that I have found in the usual places all seem to be the raised plugs. These sit flush, which is dope.
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Metal control panel button hole fillers
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2010405 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2010405)
I need these. Button hole plugs that I have found in the usual places all seem to be the raised plugs. These sit flush, which is dope.
Same here. Great for fixing Swiss cheese
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Organizer for JDBailey
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1255964 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1255964)
Worlds smallest violin for Yots.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2127732 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2127732)
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Organizer for JDBailey
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1255964 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1255964)
Worlds smallest violin for Yots.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2127732 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2127732)
Your ballsack needs attention, dude. Go tend to it while the creative types play.
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Handheld solder aid
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2209034
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Arcade nut wrench
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:688397
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Octagonal Restrictor Plate
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:52225
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Arcade Button Spacer
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18343
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Xin-Mo PCB Case
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:592256
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Sanwa 8-way restrictor plate
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1664744
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3D printable trays for Rhea and Phoebe:
– new design: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2010525 (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2010525)
– old design: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1546926 (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1546926)
3D printable tray for GDEMU (incl. the early v5 design): http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1585333 (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1585333)
These can be bought here: https://bit-district.com (https://bit-district.com)
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3D printable trays for Rhea and Phoebe:
– new design: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2010525 (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2010525)
– old design: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1546926 (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1546926)
3D printable tray for GDEMU (incl. the early v5 design): http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1585333 (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1585333)
These can be bought here: https://bit-district.com (https://bit-district.com)
These are the handy things that it helps to point out. Thanks for sharing!
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This is a fun thread.
I end up with access to a 3D printer again I'll start posting my own designs.
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This is a fun thread.
I end up with access to a 3D printer again I'll start posting my own designs.
Yeah, I want to post the Galaga spacers I made. Nothing too complex, but it’s definitely a time saver.
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What you using design? I have an idea or two kicking around I could knock up.
And, I build one of these Illuminated Arcade Spinner, it was a cool project.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,152868.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,152868.0.html)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2021152 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2021152)
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I’m just playing around in Tinkercad right now. I’ll keep playing with it, then probably move on the Fusion360.
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This thread is just what I was thinking of Yots.
I am going to have my son print up a bunch of those PCB stand offs. He has access to 3D printers at school.
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Any coin mech
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1753227 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1753227)
Simple coin entry slot. (I could have used this on ball buster)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1663883 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1663883)
Atx power supply mount
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2222342 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2222342)
Gun holster
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1360861 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1360861)
Ipac 2 mount
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2201017 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2201017)
Zero delay mount
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2486530 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2486530)
Vextrex controller
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2584312 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2584312)
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I like that ATX power supply mount. That will come in handy.
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I like that ATX power supply mount. That will come in handy.
I thought so too
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I like that ATX power supply mount. That will come in handy.
I thought so too
I need to mount one under a table for my current printer, will probably use that example. Thanks for sharing.
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Link to list of software sorted by free and payed here (https://www.shapeways.com/creator/tools)
I'm giving FreeCad a go.
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Is there a forum member who will make these to order? I really want some of the botton hole covers but do not have access to a 3d printer...
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Is there a forum member who will make these to order? I really want some of the botton hole covers but do not have access to a 3d printer...
I’ll do them for you once I get my machine back up. Gimme a few days. How many do you need?
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Is there a forum member who will make these to order? I really want some of the botton hole covers but do not have access to a 3d printer...
I’ll do them for you once I get my machine back up. Gimme a few days. How many do you need?
PM sent :)
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Is there a forum member who will make these to order? I really want some of the botton hole covers but do not have access to a 3d printer...
I’ll do them for you once I get my machine back up. Gimme a few days. How many do you need?
Don't get Puetz'd...
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Is there a forum member who will make these to order? I really want some of the botton hole covers but do not have access to a 3d printer...
I’ll do them for you once I get my machine back up. Gimme a few days. How many do you need?
Don't get Puetz'd...
Naw, smass is good peeps
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Toppers for the SNES Classic:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=363908;image)
SNES cart dust cover in red:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=363906;image)
SNES cart dust cover in white:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=363910;image)
:cheers:
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Figure out a way to hid a thumb drive in those SNES Mini toppers so that the pirates can stylishly contain their ROMs.
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Smooth out the banding. It looks like ass.
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Banding is part of it unfortunately. I've found a can of filler primer works really well in terms of reducing it.
HaRuMaN, do you have a link to the model file for those snes classic toppers?
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Gonna print a Z-axis stabilizer today, that should help some.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2560225 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2560225)
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Thanks man.
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Smooth out the banding. It looks like ass.
I kind of agree, but these things aren't exactly sizable, you're just used to Haruman potato camera pictures.
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Galaxy S3 ftw! :dizzy:
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That is a quibble I have with 3D printers. They are great for prototyping, but not so great for something meant to be displayed.
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I wouldn’t mind trying sanding and priming one day, I just haven’t made anything that needs that level of detail yet.
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That is a quibble I have with 3D printers. They are great for prototyping, but not so great for something meant to be displayed.
Well that's not quite right either. He could change the print resolution and have it take a redonkulous amount of time and it'd come out better. For its purpose that banding is fine.
Spoiler, those faux carts are for me and I might make em prettier but that zelda cart looks tits as is.
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It just surprised me that people are willing to settle for "okay" on a piece meant for display when it is 3D printed. I am considering the level of craftsmanship and attention to detail that you guys put into your other work. I am not trying to be a jerk. I am trying to figure out how I feel about 3D printers. If you are happy with them then that is all that really matters. Saying they looked like ass was too harsh. It isn't my intent to crap on the work that Haruman does. It is more my thoughts on 3D printers in general.
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I don’t think they look completely like ass, but the expectation is that they’re not injected molded either.
The satisfaction comes from holding something that started out as a concept or computer file in your hands that you made in the comfort of your own home.
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By the way, up until I got a 3-D printer, I felt exactly the way that you did. But being able to design and then physically create something touches a creative nerve in me that I don’t think I realized it would.
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Anyone of these printers can put out a perfect smooth model. And I am sure someone will post something.
In this hobby though I see most people printing parts that visuals dont really matter.
Like Yots said, its more of the craft that gets people going.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171202/c41b631ed3aeab577fa289aea8245b40.jpg)
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Anyone of these printers can put out a perfect smooth model. And I am sure someone will post something.
In this hobby though I see most people printing parts that visuals dont really matter.
Like Yots said, its more of the craft that gets people going.
Yeah but it's mostly a speed vs finish time thing. Usually it's much quicker to print it out at a higher speed and sand or fill the print than to print it smooth.
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My print speed is set to 30. I’m happy with the quality.
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Dang Yots, that bed looks hella flat. The CR10 I just bought has huge bowing in the middle, I ended up buying a Aluminum casting plate from a local metal shop.
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The a8's are a damn fine machine for the price.
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Smass, I got these printed up for you...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171202/dda191baf43aa83468099699d167dfd1.jpg)
The designer (who I know) was genius!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171202/1fa4c9c32a60f13d7ec2b332b07eb71c.jpg)
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The a8's are a damn fine machine for the price.
Oh yeah. Totally. No regrets!
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171202/99676c738f52872fdf667490d7e1a160.jpg)
These were printed to test out the process of drawing something in Illustrator, exporting it into Tinkercad, and then making an .stl to print.
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Dang Yots, that bed looks hella flat. The CR10 I just bought has huge bowing in the middle, I ended up buying a Aluminum casting plate from a local metal shop.
Did you mount that plate on top of the bowing one?
Oh, and to everyone starting out, order the PEI sheet NOW.
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No I will end up drilling holes for the mount and the heated plate. Even when I put the Borosilicate glass it forms to it. Ive never ran into the issue this bad until this printer. That Casa de Yots print would be perfect for dual or triple color.
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No I will end up drilling holes for the mount and the heated plate. Even when I put the Borosilicate glass it forms to it. Ive never ran into the issue this bad until this printer.
I never heat the bed hotter than 60 degrees, so hopefully I won’t see much warping.
That Casa de Yots print would be perfect for dual or triple color.
Yeah, me and some local collector buddies were designing 80s style logos. I’d eventually like to try a filament swap/multi-color print one day.
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Smass, I got these printed up for you...
The designer (who I know) was genius!
Nice! :applaud:
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Yotsuya. You should have someone local with a CNC machine carve that out in wood or MDF. It would look great with a decent paint job.
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Yotsuya. You should have someone local with a CNC machine carve that out in wood or MDF. It would look great with a decent paint job.
To be continued...
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Yotsuya. You should have someone local with a CNC machine carve that out in wood or MDF. It would look great with a decent paint job.
To be continued...
I am cooking up a sign for my arcade room.
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
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Badged!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171205/4c85dab126edb69eb7b960a87a6637f6.jpg)
Actually, I’m just covering two holes that were drilled there. But still....
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It needs paint.
The badge I mean.
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I snapped a tooth off an encoder wheel last night and I'm too impatient to order a new one so I just made one to print out. I just freehanded it in photoshop based upon a scan of the broken wheel, so it might not be precision centered, ect. but I printed it out, put it in my drill and it spins really nice so it can't be THAT off. I've enclosed the source photshop document as well as the finished stl.
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I snapped a tooth off an encoder wheel last night and I'm too impatient to order a new one so I just made one to print out. I just freehanded it in photoshop based upon a scan of the broken wheel, so it might not be precision centered, ect. but I printed it out, put it in my drill and it spins really nice so it can't be THAT off. I've enclosed the source photshop document as well as the finished stl.
Bad ass! I might print one just to test.
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There are encoder wheel generator programs out there.
At least there used to be back when I was tinkering with homemade spinners.
They were meant to be printed on transparencies, but would probably be fairly easy to import to a 3D modeling program.
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The ones that I'm aware of don't print the outer part of the wheel, they just do the teeth. Post a link if you know of one that does that outer ring.
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The ones that I'm aware of don't print the outer part of the wheel, they just do the teeth. Post a link if you know of one that does that outer ring.
Been years, but a quick google search turned up this one:
(https://i.ytimg.com/vi/eyuVBlRnarw/maxresdefault.jpg)
This download link looks legit, but I haven't verified.
http://www.societyofrobots.com/downloads/ (http://www.societyofrobots.com/downloads/)
EDIT: now get on that 3D printed 720° controller with it's unique encoder wheel
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Nice. Yeah that'll work. I'm refining my 10 dollar 360 wheel I did a few years back. I don't think I ever posted the pics of that.... need to do that tomorrow.
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Just made this. It's a replacement back-plate for an OG NES controller that simplifies installing a Pi Zero. It effectively makes your NES controller a Plug-n-Play console. I've got NES and Gameboy/GBC games on it now.
Files at: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1635363 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1635363)
Great walkthrough on construction: https://howchoo.com/g/zdqxnzblmzm/gamepad-zero-a-raspberry-pi-retro-gaming-rig-in-an-nes-controller (https://howchoo.com/g/zdqxnzblmzm/gamepad-zero-a-raspberry-pi-retro-gaming-rig-in-an-nes-controller)
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Just made this. It's a replacement back-plate for an OG NES controller that simplifies installing a Pi Zero. It effectively makes your NES controller a Plug-n-Play console. I've got NES and Gameboy/GBC games on it now.
Files at: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1635363 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1635363)
Great walkthrough on construction: https://howchoo.com/g/zdqxnzblmzm/gamepad-zero-a-raspberry-pi-retro-gaming-rig-in-an-nes-controller (https://howchoo.com/g/zdqxnzblmzm/gamepad-zero-a-raspberry-pi-retro-gaming-rig-in-an-nes-controller)
Thats really cool mate nice work!
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Just made this. It's a replacement back-plate for an OG NES controller that simplifies installing a Pi Zero. It effectively makes your NES controller a Plug-n-Play console. I've got NES and Gameboy/GBC games on it now.
Files at: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1635363 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1635363)
Great walkthrough on construction: https://howchoo.com/g/zdqxnzblmzm/gamepad-zero-a-raspberry-pi-retro-gaming-rig-in-an-nes-controller (https://howchoo.com/g/zdqxnzblmzm/gamepad-zero-a-raspberry-pi-retro-gaming-rig-in-an-nes-controller)
Nice! I kind of want one...
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Cool idea but needing a power supply kills it. I'm surprised that the Pi Zero can't be run off the HDMI port, to be honest.
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I think it would make more sense to do that with a snes controller tbh. Not enough buttons for many games. Clever idea though.
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I think it would make more sense to do that with a snes controller tbh. Not enough buttons for many games. Clever idea though.
Only the entire NES, Gameboy, and Gameboy Color library...
There are similar concept back plates on Thingiverse for SNES controllers as well.
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Yeah but knocking it up to 6 buttons covers everything up to the n64 and most arcade games. If you are happy with it that is all that matters.
Printing out parts to do my entire 360 degree wheel rig from scratch with 3d printed parts. Just drew up the wheel hub.... cura says 2 and a half hours and it usually takes longer than cura estimates. Gotta do both bearing holders as well. Ugh....
Anyway, it's a pretty good design I think. It's for people wanting to shoehorn a 360 degree wheel into their traditional analog racing cabinet. You need a wheel with one of those removable hubs and enough room to drill a 2.25 inch hole in your dash. Except for the wheel itself it's about 10 dollars in parts, and all can be found at your local tractor supply. I been using it during the testing phase of my racing rig an aside from the encoder wheel breaking (it was just hot glued in place) it's worked great.
Assuming I get it working with the newly printed parts I'll post the whole thing as a kit.
Update: Parts are coming along nicely! It took 2 or 3 prototypes for the bearing hubs, but the one I just printed off is perfect. I have to engineer a holder for the optic pcb and then it's done. I've never engineered something this complicated from scratch before and I'm a bit over-excited.
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Just made this. It's a replacement back-plate for an OG NES controller that simplifies installing a Pi Zero. It effectively makes your NES controller a Plug-n-Play console. I've got NES and Gameboy/GBC games on it now.
Files at: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1635363 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1635363)
Great walkthrough on construction: https://howchoo.com/g/zdqxnzblmzm/gamepad-zero-a-raspberry-pi-retro-gaming-rig-in-an-nes-controller (https://howchoo.com/g/zdqxnzblmzm/gamepad-zero-a-raspberry-pi-retro-gaming-rig-in-an-nes-controller)
Was just thinking I needed something like this for the bottom of a sega genesis cartridge as i'm putting an rpi zero in.
gonna have to settle with using my glue gun instead for the usb hub and other connections i want to put in there.
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Cool idea but needing a power supply kills it. I'm surprised that the Pi Zero can't be run off the HDMI port, to be honest.
I think hdmi only has 50ma on the 5v.
not enough to power much.
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Won't it run via the USB port of the tv?
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Won't it run via the USB port of the tv?
Depends on the port, but most supply enough current to do that. My HDMI cord is 15' though, and longest USB cord I've got is only 6', so that plugs into the socket in my couch cup holder.
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You know with fire stick and all these hdmi dongle devices being so popular along with the never ending train of Nintendo classic consoles, you'd think somebody would have made a long hdmi cable with a built in usb cable by now. I thought I read somewhere that the next revision of hdmi is going to have a dc power line.
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You know with fire stick and all these hdmi dongle devices being so popular along with the never ending train of Nintendo classic consoles, you'd think somebody would have made a long hdmi cable with a built in usb cable by now. I thought I read somewhere that the next revision of hdmi is going to have a dc power line.
I haven't searched in a while, but I can't believe nobody has come out with a USB power supply that plugs inline between a standard C13/14 (tower PC style) power cable and inlet. 2 of the 4 TVs in my house use that connector for the cord and the wall warts can be a PITA when the outlet is on the wall behind the TV. It would be a better solution for the streaming sticks. Either that or a USB outlet on the TV with a decent amperage rating.
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Yeah but knocking it up to 6 buttons covers everything up to the n64 and most arcade games. If you are happy with it that is all that matters.
Printing out parts to do my entire 360 degree wheel rig from scratch with 3d printed parts. Just drew up the wheel hub.... cura says 2 and a half hours and it usually takes longer than cura estimates. Gotta do both bearing holders as well. Ugh....
Anyway, it's a pretty good design I think. It's for people wanting to shoehorn a 360 degree wheel into their traditional analog racing cabinet. You need a wheel with one of those removable hubs and enough room to drill a 2.25 inch hole in your dash. Except for the wheel itself it's about 10 dollars in parts, and all can be found at your local tractor supply. I been using it during the testing phase of my racing rig an aside from the encoder wheel breaking (it was just hot glued in place) it's worked great.
Assuming I get it working with the newly printed parts I'll post the whole thing as a kit.
Update: Parts are coming along nicely! It took 2 or 3 prototypes for the bearing hubs, but the one I just printed off is perfect. I have to engineer a holder for the optic pcb and then it's done. I've never engineered something this complicated from scratch before and I'm a bit over-excited.
Pi zero can't really handle snes fx chip games so N64 is right out.
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That encoder generator puts out an image. You can import that into inkscape and turn it into a vector then run it through a small cnc machine. I know this is the 3d printers page but i'm looking at the hobby cnc router/engravers on amazon right now. I tried printing one of those encoders out and sandwiching it between two clear cd inserts for a spinner once. It didn't work out that well. If i had to do it again, cutting out a proper one would be the way to go. can anybody put the paperboy encoder discs on a flatbed scanner and pop the scans my way??
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Yeah... actually that's a good idea. Let's start a repository on here of various encoder images. I have some oddball ones lying around I'll scan.
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if your scanning them, plopping a small 6" metric ruler beside it would be awesome for any minor scaling issues between graphics software.
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6" metric ruler
:bat :whap
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6" metric ruler
:bat :whap
^ what he said....
LOL
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6" metric ruler
:bat :whap
^ what he said....
LOL
A 6" metric ruler makes more sense than a metric yardstick that probably wouldn't have fine enough markings to make an accurate measurement. :duckhunt
Scott
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Do you have to ruin everything?
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ok so the 6" metric comment wasn't well thought out however, i was at work and have one of these on my desk.
https://www.amazon.com/Westcott-Through-6-Inch-Acrylic-10561/dp/B00CHRN0SI (https://www.amazon.com/Westcott-Through-6-Inch-Acrylic-10561/dp/B00CHRN0SI)
mine is blue. :embarassed:
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It really is a 6" long metric ruler.
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Justified
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It's really a 152 1/3 mm imperial ruler... :P
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I've got an omega race optical (I think), an imperial, a wico and maybe a couple of other odd ducks. They are in parts piles somewhere, so it might be some time before I can scan them.
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https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1679204/#files (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1679204/#files)
a scad file for generating optical encoder discs already exists. havn't opened it yet since i have neither the dimensions of the 720 joystick discs, nor an a 720 joystick.
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I just got an MP mini select fro christmas this year--printed two things and went and bought a Anet A8 :cheers: Love these things!
Anyways, I want to try out this project:
https://3dprint.com/81760/raspberry-pi-arcade-cabinet/ (https://3dprint.com/81760/raspberry-pi-arcade-cabinet/)
I haven't done anything with a raspberry pi yet so it will be an adventure.
-
Klaatu42 made a Super Off Road Encoder Wheel. (P/N 25-11007-01)
Hi. Here is a 3d printable replacement for the original steering encoder wheel (not the flat style some machines have) for Ivan Stewart's Super Off-Road cabinets. Print with 100% infill. I used black PLA.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2760779 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2760779)
If you try this and have any feedback or want to request any changes to the model, let me know on Thingiverse in the comments.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=156342.0;attach=365034;image)
Scott
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I printed a Q*bert
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180119/46ccaada0dc8f2c03c820da41d086eb8.jpg)
-
Glad you got the printer up and running. Layer lines look good.
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Glad you got the printer up and running. Layer lines look good.
Yeah ime in full swing now!
Been printing stuff all week lol
I wanted to start over xmas but I was ill
Still tweaking settings but think ime nearly there now!
This is my current project, think ime going to have to reprint the turret though I think I needed to tweak a few setting.
May redo the upper hull to.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180119/e918fcce0327a41ef42538d26ff0118d.jpg)
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Just came across this thread. Some things I've made:
* Tron Recognizer for the top of my Tron
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:25879 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:25879)
(https://i.imgur.com/oVV1nDv.jpg)
* Designed this coin door latch/credit button
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2085416 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2085416)
(https://i.imgur.com/Bs4TZyS.jpg)
* Printed this UFO and "tractor beam" for my Viper Night Drivin' pinball. The beam was printed with glow in the dark filament so it is UV-reactive for the blacklights.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:690084 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:690084)
(https://i.imgur.com/RH73u3L.jpg)
I'm also working on an adapter plate for a hacked Burger Time.
Bonus non-arcade stuff is what I've been doing for my Nintendo Switch:
Portable dock
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2294407 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2294407)
(https://i.imgur.com/HZNxCb4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/80QCSLE.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/qy8xF35.jpg)
Zelda stand printed on wood filament and stained/clearcoated
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2172882 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2172882)
(https://i.imgur.com/psGQi7s.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/qIO02PU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/q6IRSTP.jpg)
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Doesn't anyone bother finishing anything they 3D print? Have some pride in workmanship. The machine does all the work. The least you can do is get out some sandpaper or paint or something. I saw a Pokemon planter somewhere in this forum. It was actually finished. It looked sweet. I get it if the part is not going to be displayed, but most of this stuff is meant for display.
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Well the wood filament that he printed with supposedly loses it's wood look if you sand it. You really don't want anything painted touching the switch anyway.
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Ile be finishing all my prints once my paint arrives lol
Though the tank is still a work in progress, Need to print the tracks and guns then prep it all and paint.
Q*bert will be painted soon as my air brush paint arrives :)
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Doesn't anyone bother finishing anything they 3D print? Have some pride in workmanship. The machine does all the work. The least you can do is get out some sandpaper or paint or something. I saw a Pokemon planter somewhere in this forum. It was actually finished. It looked sweet. I get it if the part is not going to be displayed, but most of this stuff is meant for display.
That Pokemon planter owns. My wife loves it.
:cheers:
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Doesn't anyone bother finishing anything they 3D print? Have some pride in workmanship. The machine does all the work. The least you can do is get out some sandpaper or paint or something. I saw a Pokemon planter somewhere in this forum. It was actually finished. It looked sweet. I get it if the part is not going to be displayed, but most of this stuff is meant for display.
That Pokemon planter owns. My wife loves it.
:cheers:
I enjoyed painting it. Need to get a airbrush kit next. Still waiting on someone to print that pirate though......
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If you can guess what this is, I will print and send you one. First person only!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180309/fe4fed3e40278cb6d9ddff646fe87503.jpg)
Smass, I still owe you the button plugs. Will mail soon.
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Quarter holder?
-
Quarter holder?
Good guess. Nope.
-
Quarter holder?
Good guess. Nope.
Foot protector thing?
-
smass, I still owe you the button plugs. Will mail soon.
I had to read that twice this morning. Man I need some coffee. :laugh2:
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When I skimmed over it I saw the same thing at first.
-
Does that say something about us?
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He knew what he was doing when he posted that.
-
Hey, Yot don’t judge...
-
Here it is in hand. Any more guesses?
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180309/9ec8db23e338e378f4a6dac3ddbde74a.jpg)
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Nobody knows wtf that is.
-
HaRuMaN does
-
Ball shaver.
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The only thing that comes to mind is a tool to aid in the installation of t-molding around corners. But that just raises the question, why wasn't it designed more ergonomically? So I guess that's out.
-
Router guide for cutting rounded corners?
:dunno
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Damn, Jim... Now I'm kind of wanting to buy a 3D printer...
-
It's definitely not a pirate model.......
-
Router guide for cutting rounded corners?
:dunno
Close. Think of the inverse
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Is it a jig to measure rounded corners? I'm actually cutting myself several in different sizes.
-
Is it a jig to measure rounded corners? I'm actually cutting myself several in different sizes.
Very close, brother.
It’s a jig to help me re-Bondo and putty the rounded corners on my Dynamo cab. I’ll apply the putty, then press down on the round part, let it dry, then sand. Beats shaping it by hand.
-
Is it a jig to measure rounded corners?
The name of the tool you're thinking about is a fillet gauge.
There are tons of them on thingiverse.
Here's the OpenSCAD (http://www.openscad.org/) code for a few of them I designed to measure curves on a small octagon.
Small metric 1 - 2.5mm
$fn=360;
//
difference (){
translate([0,0,0]) linear_extrude(height = 2, scale = 1)
polygon(ngon(8,10));
//linear extrude octagon
translate([-10,0,1]) cylinder(4, r=1, center=true); //Left
translate([0,10,1]) cylinder(4, r=1.5, center=true); //Top
translate([10,0,1]) cylinder(4, r=2, center=true); //Right
translate([0,-10,1]) cylinder(4, r=2.5, center=true); //Bottom
}
//
// Module call
LeftNumber("1");
// Module defined
module LeftNumber(letter, size=6) {
translate([-5,0,1]) {
color("black") linear_extrude(height=2, convexity=4)
text(letter,
size=size*22/30,
font="Bitstream Vera Sans",
halign="center",
valign="center");
}
}
//
// Module call
TopNumber("1.5");
// Module defined
module TopNumber(letter, size=6) {
translate([0,5,1]) {
color("black") linear_extrude(height=2, convexity=4)
text(letter,
size=size*22/30,
font="Bitstream Vera Sans",
halign="center",
valign="center");
}
}
//
// Module call
RightNumber("2");
// Module defined
module RightNumber(letter, size=6) {
translate([5,0,1]) {
color("black") linear_extrude(height=2, convexity=4)
text(letter,
size=size*22/30,
font="Bitstream Vera Sans",
halign="center",
valign="center");
}
}
//
// Module call
LowerNumber("2.5");
// Module defined
module LowerNumber(letter, size=6) {
translate([0,-5,1]) {
color("black") linear_extrude(height=2, convexity=4)
text(letter,
size=size*22/30,
font="Bitstream Vera Sans",
halign="center",
valign="center");
}
}
//
// Simple list comprehension for creating N-gon vertices
function ngon(num, r) =
[for (i=[0:num-1], a=i*360/num) [ r*cos(a), r*sin(a) ]];
// "ngon" function from "Polygon areas.scad" example. Written in 2015 by Marius Kintel <marius@kintel.net>
//
X-small metric 0.6-0.9mm
$fn=360;
//
difference (){
translate([0,0,0]) linear_extrude(height = 2, scale = 1)
polygon(ngon(8,10));
//linear extrude octagon
translate([-10,0,1]) cylinder(4, r=.6, center=true); //Left
translate([0,10,1]) cylinder(4, r=.7, center=true); //Top
translate([10,0,1]) cylinder(4, r=.8, center=true); //Right
translate([0,-10,1]) cylinder(4, r=.9, center=true); //Bottom
}
//
// Module call
LeftNumber(".6");
// Module defined
module LeftNumber(letter, size=6) {
translate([-5,0,1]) {
color("black") linear_extrude(height=2, convexity=4)
text(letter,
size=size*22/30,
font="Bitstream Vera Sans",
halign="center",
valign="center");
}
}
//
// Module call
TopNumber(".7");
// Module defined
module TopNumber(letter, size=6) {
translate([0,5,1]) {
color("black") linear_extrude(height=2, convexity=4)
text(letter,
size=size*22/30,
font="Bitstream Vera Sans",
halign="center",
valign="center");
}
}
//
// Module call
RightNumber(".8");
// Module defined
module RightNumber(letter, size=6) {
translate([5,0,1]) {
color("black") linear_extrude(height=2, convexity=4)
text(letter,
size=size*22/30,
font="Bitstream Vera Sans",
halign="center",
valign="center");
}
}
//
// Module call
LowerNumber(".9");
// Module defined
module LowerNumber(letter, size=6) {
translate([0,-5,1]) {
color("black") linear_extrude(height=2, convexity=4)
text(letter,
size=size*22/30,
font="Bitstream Vera Sans",
halign="center",
valign="center");
}
}
//
// Simple list comprehension for creating N-gon vertices
function ngon(num, r) =
[for (i=[0:num-1], a=i*360/num) [ r*cos(a), r*sin(a) ]];
// "ngon" function from "Polygon areas.scad" example. Written in 2015 by Marius Kintel <marius@kintel.net>
//
Scott
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Happ-sized (55mm) dust washer based on the Ikari Warriors joystick surround artwork.
Print the .stl using a 0.4mm nozzle or use the .scad, .dxf, and .svg files to make custom-size washers and/or change the line thicknesses.
Details are in the enclosed Readme file.
Scott
EDIT: On line 20 of the SCAD file, you may need to increase the variable "FineThick" (fine line width) to 0.6 to generate a STL that works with your slicer software and printer.
I tried 0.41 and 0.45, but both resulted in the slicer missing some of the lines. :banghead:
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Is it a jig to measure rounded corners? I'm actually cutting myself several in different sizes.
Very close, brother.
It’s a jig to help me re-Bondo and putty the rounded corners on my Dynamo cab. I’ll apply the putty, then press down on the round part, let it dry, then sand. Beats shaping it by hand.
You expected us to guess THAT!?!
-
Is it a jig to measure rounded corners? I'm actually cutting myself several in different sizes.
Very close, brother.
It’s a jig to help me re-Bondo and putty the rounded corners on my Dynamo cab. I’ll apply the putty, then press down on the round part, let it dry, then sand. Beats shaping it by hand.
You expected us to guess THAT!?!
Put the yayo down and actually LOOK at it.... ;)
-
Is it a jig to measure rounded corners? I'm actually cutting myself several in different sizes.
Very close, brother.
It’s a jig to help me re-Bondo and putty the rounded corners on my Dynamo cab. I’ll apply the putty, then press down on the round part, let it dry, then sand. Beats shaping it by hand.
You expected us to guess THAT!?!
Put the yayo down and actually LOOK at it.... ;)
LOL... Yeah, cuz my guess of it being a tool to press t-molding into a corner is nothing like it being a tool to shape bondo into a corner... ::)
Dude, I stared at that ---smurfing--- thing for far too long.
But kudos on making the 3D printer to the ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- work.
-
Is it a jig to measure rounded corners? I'm actually cutting myself several in different sizes.
Very close, brother.
It’s a jig to help me re-Bondo and putty the rounded corners on my Dynamo cab. I’ll apply the putty, then press down on the round part, let it dry, then sand. Beats shaping it by hand.
You expected us to guess THAT!?!
Put the yayo down and actually LOOK at it.... ;)
LOL... Yeah, cuz my guess of it being a tool to press t-molding into a corner is nothing like it being a tool to shape bondo into a corner... ::)
Dude, I stared at that ---smurfing--- thing for far too long.
But kudos on making the 3D printer to the ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- work.
Yeah, I’m all about printing functional items. No tugboats for me!
-
Is it a jig to measure rounded corners? I'm actually cutting myself several in different sizes.
Very close, brother.
It’s a jig to help me re-Bondo and putty the rounded corners on my Dynamo cab. I’ll apply the putty, then press down on the round part, let it dry, then sand. Beats shaping it by hand.
You expected us to guess THAT!?!
I guessed it. lol
-
Is it a jig to measure rounded corners? I'm actually cutting myself several in different sizes.
Very close, brother.
It’s a jig to help me re-Bondo and putty the rounded corners on my Dynamo cab. I’ll apply the putty, then press down on the round part, let it dry, then sand. Beats shaping it by hand.
You expected us to guess THAT!?!
Put the yayo down and actually LOOK at it.... ;)
LOL... Yeah, cuz my guess of it being a tool to press t-molding into a corner is nothing like it being a tool to shape bondo into a corner... ::)
Dude, I stared at that ---smurfing--- thing for far too long.
But kudos on making the 3D printer to the ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- work.
Yeah, I’m all about printing functional items. No tugboats for me!
See this is why we get along so well... you totally get me man. Work smarter, not harder. :)
-
Is it a jig to measure rounded corners? I'm actually cutting myself several in different sizes.
Very close, brother.
It’s a jig to help me re-Bondo and putty the rounded corners on my Dynamo cab. I’ll apply the putty, then press down on the round part, let it dry, then sand. Beats shaping it by hand.
You expected us to guess THAT!?!
Put the yayo down and actually LOOK at it.... ;)
LOL... Yeah, cuz my guess of it being a tool to press t-molding into a corner is nothing like it being a tool to shape bondo into a corner... ::)
Dude, I stared at that ---smurfing--- thing for far too long.
But kudos on making the 3D printer to the ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- work.
Yeah, I’m all about printing functional items. No tugboats for me!
See this is why we get along so well... you totally get me man. Work smarter, not harder. :)
I still owe you a drink of choice for introducing me to the Anet A8...
-
The ones that I'm aware of don't print the outer part of the wheel, they just do the teeth. Post a link if you know of one that does that outer ring.
Been years, but a quick google search turned up this one:
(https://i.ytimg.com/vi/eyuVBlRnarw/maxresdefault.jpg)
This download link looks legit, but I haven't verified.
http://www.societyofrobots.com/downloads/ (http://www.societyofrobots.com/downloads/)
EDIT: now get on that 3D printed 720° controller with it's unique encoder wheel
If anyone wants to make a custom 720°-style encoder wheel, I've remixed the OpenSCAD Customizable Optical Encoder generator here (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1679204) to include a 6mm (d=6) indexing hole.
Inserted this code just before the last line. (new lines 281 and 282)
translate ([0, outer_diameter/2 - rim_width - slit_length * 2, 0])
cylinder (wheel_height + 1 ,d=6,center=true);
Translate means move, so if you want to move the index hole along the Y-axis, add to or subtract from the Y-axis value.
Current Y-axis location value: "outer_diameter/2 - rim_width - slit_length * 2"
Move 3mm closer to the rim: "outer_diameter/2 - rim_width - slit_length * 2 + 3"
Move 5mm closer to the center: "outer_diameter/2 - rim_width - slit_length * 2 - 5"
Full remix code:
//customizable optical encoder
// James Wickware - 7/18/2016
// preview[view:north east, tilt:top diagonal]
/* [Encoder] */
// the outer diameter of the optical encoder in millimeters.
outer_diameter = 150; //[0:150]
// the height of the encoder wheel in millimeters.
wheel_height = 2; //[0.1:0.1:20]
// the length of the slits in millimeters.
slit_length = 6; //[0:0.5:75]
// the number of slits in the encoder.
slit_count = 72; // [2:100]
// the ratio of the slit opening to the solid section between the slits. (0.5 is equal )
slit_ratio = 0.5; // [0.05:0.05:0.95]
// the distance between the outer diameter and the opening of the slits in millimeters.
rim_width = 1.8; // [0:0.25:25]
/* [Hub] */
// the diameter of the inner hub in millimeters.
hub_diameter = 12; // [0:0.25:25]
// the length that the hub shaft extends from the encoder wheel in millimeters.
hub_height = 4; // [0:0.5:50]
/* [Shaft] */
// the type of shaft 0 for circular shaft, 1 d shaft (circular with 1 flat, 2 double d shaft (circular with 2 flats), 3 for square shaft 4 for hex shaft, 5 for octagonal shaft.
shaft_type =2; //[0:Cylindrical Shaft, 1:D Type Shaft,2:Double D type Shaft,3:Square Shaft, 4:Hexagonal Shaft, 5:Octagonal Shaft]
// the diameter of the hole for the shaft in millimeters.
shaft_diameter = 4.5; //[0:0.1:20]
// Choose whether or not you want the shaft to go all the way through the encoder wheel.
shaft_goes_through_encoder =0 ; // [0:False,1:True]
// the depth of the flat from the outside edge of the shaft in millimeters (for d and double d shaft type only).
shaft_flat_depth = 1; // [0:0.1:10]
/* [Set Screw] */
// choose whether to include a hole for a set screw
set_screw = 1; // [0:False,1:True]
// the size of the set screw in millimeters
set_screw_diameter = 3; // [0:0.5:10]
// choose whether to include a slot for a set screw nut (automatically disabled when there is not enough room for it).
set_screw_nut = 1; // [0:False,1:True]
// the set screw nut diameter in millimeters. (for hex nuts, the distance from one corner to the opposite corner)
set_screw_nut_diameter = 5; // [1:0.25:14]
// the set screw nut thickness in millimeters
set_screw_nut_thickness = 2; //[0.25:0.25:10]
/* [Hidden] */
// the outer radius
outer_radius = max(outer_diameter/2, hub_diameter/2);
// the hub radius.
hub_radius = hub_diameter/2;
shaft_radius = shaft_diameter/2;
// the depth of the hole for the shaft in millimeters.
shaft_depth = hub_height + (wheel_height*shaft_goes_through_encoder);
// calcuate whether or not the set screw and or nut can safely be included.
min_set_screw_nut_diameter = set_screw_diameter + 0.5;
max_set_screw_nut_diameter = (hub_diameter - shaft_diameter) * 0.6; // allow 60% of distance between shaft and hub
max_set_screw_nut_thickness = (hub_radius - shaft_radius) * 0.6; // allow 60% of distance between shaft and hub
can_have_screw = (hub_height-0.99 > set_screw_diameter) ? 1:0 ;
can_have_nut = ((set_screw_diameter > 0) ? 1: 0)
* ((set_screw_diameter < set_screw_nut_diameter) ? 1:0)
* ((set_screw_nut_thickness < max_set_screw_nut_thickness) ? 1:0)
* set_screw_nut
* can_have_screw;
echo(can_have_screw);
echo(can_have_nut);
set_screw_nut_offset = (((shaft_type == 0) ? 1:0) * .95)
+(((shaft_type == 1) ? 1:0) * .85)
+(((shaft_type == 2) ? 1:0) * .85)
+(((shaft_type == 3) ? 1:0) * .925)
+(((shaft_type == 4) ? 1:0) * .925)
+(((shaft_type == 5) ? 1:0) * .925)
+(((shaft_type == 6) ? 1:0) * .925)
+(((shaft_type == 7) ? 1:0) * .925)
+(((shaft_type == 8) ? 1:0) * .925)
;
echo(set_screw_nut_offset);
// fudge factor to prevent coplanar boolean issues
fudge = 0.01;
difference(){
union(){
// Setup variables for wheel
outer_rad = max((outer_radius - rim_width ) + fudge, hub_radius + fudge) ;
inner_rad = max((outer_radius - rim_width - max(slit_length,0)) + fudge , hub_radius + fudge );
step = 360/slit_count;
half_step = step/2;
qtr_step = half_step / 2 ;
echo("step");
echo (step);
ratio_angle = (slit_ratio-0.5) * half_step;
// don't create slits if some touch-hard has made the hub too big
if(outer_rad > inner_rad){
// create the wheel
difference(){
cylinder(r = outer_diameter/2, h= wheel_height, $fn = slit_count * 2, center = true);
if( slit_count%2 == 0){
// create slits
for (i = [0 : step : 360 - fudge ])
{
points = [
[ sin(i +ratio_angle)*outer_rad, cos(i+ratio_angle)*outer_rad , -wheel_height ],
[ sin(i +ratio_angle)*inner_rad, cos(i+ratio_angle)*inner_rad, -wheel_height ],
[ sin(i+half_step - ratio_angle)*inner_rad , cos(i+half_step- ratio_angle)*inner_rad, -wheel_height ],
[ sin(i+half_step - ratio_angle)*outer_rad, cos(i+half_step- ratio_angle)*outer_rad, -wheel_height ],
[ sin(i+ratio_angle)*outer_rad, cos(i+ratio_angle)*outer_rad, wheel_height ],
[ sin(i+ratio_angle)*inner_rad, cos(i+ratio_angle)*inner_rad, wheel_height ],
[ sin(i+half_step - ratio_angle)*inner_rad , cos(i+half_step- ratio_angle)*inner_rad, wheel_height ],
[ sin(i+half_step - ratio_angle)*outer_rad, cos(i+half_step- ratio_angle)*outer_rad, wheel_height ]
];
faces = [
[0,1,2,3],
[4,5,1,0],
[7,6,5,4],
[5,6,2,1],
[6,7,3,2],
[7,4,0,3]];
rotate(0,0,i)
polyhedron( points, faces ) ;
}
}
else{
for (i = [0 : step : 360 - fudge])
{
points = [
[ sin(i-qtr_step)*outer_rad, cos(i-qtr_step)*outer_rad , -wheel_height ],
[ sin(i-qtr_step)*inner_rad, cos(i-qtr_step)*inner_rad, -wheel_height ],
[ sin(i+qtr_step)*inner_rad , cos(i+qtr_step)*inner_rad, -wheel_height ],
[ sin(i+qtr_step)*outer_rad, cos(i+qtr_step)*outer_rad, -wheel_height ],
[ sin(i-qtr_step)*outer_rad, cos(i-qtr_step)*outer_rad, wheel_height ],
[ sin(i-qtr_step)*inner_rad, cos(i-qtr_step)*inner_rad, wheel_height ],
[ sin(i+qtr_step)*inner_rad , cos(i+qtr_step)*inner_rad, wheel_height ],
[ sin(i+qtr_step)*outer_rad, cos(i+qtr_step)*outer_rad, wheel_height ]
];
faces = [
[0,1,2,3],
[4,5,1,0],
[7,6,5,4],
[5,6,2,1],
[6,7,3,2],
[7,4,0,3]];
rotate(0,0,i)
polyhedron( points, faces ) ;
}
}
}
}
// create hub
if(hub_height > 0){
if(set_screw == 1 && set_screw_diameter > 0 && can_have_screw == 1){
difference(){
translate([0,0, ((hub_height/2) + (wheel_height /2))] )
cylinder(r= min(hub_diameter/2, (outer_diameter/2)-fudge ), h = hub_height +(fudge*2), $fn = slit_count *2, center = true);
// set screw hole
translate([0,0, ((hub_height/2) + (wheel_height/2 ))] )
rotate([-90,0,0])
cylinder(r=set_screw_diameter/2, h=hub_diameter, $fn=16);
if(can_have_nut == 1){
// set screw nut
translate([0,(hub_radius - ((hub_radius-shaft_radius)/2))*set_screw_nut_offset, ((hub_height/2) + (wheel_height/2 ))] )
rotate([90,00,00])
cylinder(r=max(min_set_screw_nut_diameter/2,set_screw_nut_diameter/2), h=max(set_screw_nut_thickness,0.25) +fudge, $fn=6, center = true);
translate([0,(hub_radius - ((hub_radius-shaft_radius)/2))*set_screw_nut_offset, ((hub_height/2) + (wheel_height/2 )) +
(((hub_height/2) + (wheel_height/2 )+set_screw_nut_diameter /2 )-fudge) /2] )
cube([max(min_set_screw_nut_diameter ,set_screw_nut_diameter ) ,max(set_screw_nut_thickness,0.25)-fudge,(((hub_height/2) + (wheel_height/2 )+max(min_set_screw_nut_diameter ,set_screw_nut_diameter ) /2 )) ],center=true);
}
}
}
else {
translate([0,0, ((hub_height/2) + (wheel_height /2))] )
cylinder(r= min(hub_diameter/2, (outer_diameter/2)-fudge ), h = hub_height +(fudge*2), $fn = slit_count *2, center = true);
}
}
};
// shaft
// cylindrical shaft
if(shaft_type == 0){
translate([0,0, ((shaft_depth/2) + (wheel_height /2) + (hub_height ))]) // move shaft to the top of the hub
translate([0,0,-min(shaft_depth, hub_height+wheel_height)]) // insert the shaft until it hits bottom >:)
cylinder(r= shaft_diameter/2, h=shaft_depth + (fudge*4) , $fn = max(slit_count*2, 6) ,center = true);
}
// d type shaft
if(shaft_type == 1)
{
translate([0,0, ((shaft_depth/2) + (wheel_height /2) + (hub_height ))]) // move shaft to the top of the hub
translate([0,0,-min(shaft_depth, hub_height+wheel_height)]) // insert the shaft until it hits bottom >:)
difference(){
cylinder(r= shaft_diameter/2, h=shaft_depth + (fudge*4) , $fn = max(slit_count*2, 6) ,center = true);
translate([0, max( shaft_diameter - shaft_flat_depth , shaft_diameter/2),0 ])
cube ( [shaft_diameter*2,shaft_diameter, shaft_depth*2 ], center = true) ;
}
}
// double d type shaft -- double D = big breasts --
if (shaft_type == 2)
{
translate([0,0, ((shaft_depth/2) + (wheel_height /2) + (hub_height ))]) // move shaft to the top of the hub
translate([0,0,-min(shaft_depth, hub_height+wheel_height)]) // insert the shaft until it hits bottom >:)
difference(){
cylinder(r= shaft_diameter/2, h=shaft_depth + (fudge*4) , $fn = max(slit_count*2, 6) ,center = true);
translate([0, max( shaft_diameter - shaft_flat_depth , shaft_diameter/2),0 ])
cube ( [shaft_diameter*2,shaft_diameter, shaft_depth*2 ], center = true);
translate([0, min( -( shaft_diameter - shaft_flat_depth), -(shaft_diameter/2)),0 ])
cube ( [shaft_diameter*2,shaft_diameter, shaft_depth*2 ], center = true);
}
}
// square shaft
if (shaft_type == 3)
{
translate([0,0, ((shaft_depth/2) + (wheel_height /2) + (hub_height ))]) // move shaft to the top of the hub
translate([0,0,-min(shaft_depth, hub_height+wheel_height)]) // insert the shaft until it hits bottom >:)
rotate([0,0,45])
cylinder(r= shaft_diameter/2, h=shaft_depth + (fudge*4) , $fn = 4 ,center = true);
}
// hex shaft
if (shaft_type == 4)
{
translate([0,0, ((shaft_depth/2) + (wheel_height /2) + (hub_height ))]) // move shaft to the top of the hub
translate([0,0,-min(shaft_depth, hub_height+wheel_height)]) // insert the shaft until it hits bottom >:)
cylinder(r= shaft_diameter/2, h=shaft_depth + (fudge*4) , $fn = 6 ,center = true);
}
// octopus shaft
if (shaft_type == 5)
{
translate([0,0, ((shaft_depth/2) + (wheel_height /2) + (hub_height ))]) // move shaft to the top of the hub
translate([0,0,-min(shaft_depth, hub_height+wheel_height)]) // insert the shaft until it hits bottom >:)
rotate([0,0,22.5])
cylinder(r= shaft_diameter/2, h=shaft_depth + (fudge*4) , $fn = 8 ,center = true);
}
translate ([0, outer_diameter/2 - rim_width - slit_length * 2, 0])
cylinder (wheel_height + 1 ,d=6,center=true);
}
Scott
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Finally got around to making these:
My attempts at making larger threads failed, so I used a nut and bolt off thingiverse to just get it done.
I envisioned a larger threaded post, but this will do.
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Hope no one's standing underneath that when it shears off.
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The blade is resting on a 5/8" thick arbor and the whole thing is printed at 100% density.
I don't see any reason it would shear off.
The only way I see it failing is if I were to over-tighten and break the smaller threaded part off.
Time will tell.
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I've hung saw blades on penny nails and printed at 100% infill that bolt would be 3x as strong as that. It'll be fine.
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So I got my Ender 3 and some nice white pro PLA from MatterHackers. Would it be possible (and not a waste of PLA) to print out some Star Wars Yokes and gears?
It has been talked about before: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=133656.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=133656.0)
Not sure if they would break under wear and tear.
Also has anyone made a cover for their 3d printer? I am not sure about the IKEA lack mod, but the PVC enclosure looks cheaper an contains the heat, since the weather is getting colder.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=laTXCyLQIYs (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=laTXCyLQIYs)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5520E3zZoI8 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5520E3zZoI8)
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about to pull the trigger on a 3d printer.
just waiting for the tax return to come in.
going for the anycubic chiron.
expensive but huge build volume which i'll take advantage of.
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So I got my Ender 3 and some nice white pro PLA from MatterHackers. Would it be possible (and not a waste of PLA) to print out some Star Wars Yokes and gears?
It has been talked about before: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=133656.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=133656.0)
Not sure if they would break under wear and tear.
Also has anyone made a cover for their 3d printer? I am not sure about the IKEA lack mod, but the PVC enclosure looks cheaper an contains the heat, since the weather is getting colder.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=laTXCyLQIYs (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=laTXCyLQIYs)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5520E3zZoI8 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5520E3zZoI8)
Just read this. I’m actually building an enclosure this weekend. Bought 3 IKEA Lacks and am printing the parts as I type. I saw one some friends set up and it’s perfect.
-
So I got my Ender 3 and some nice white pro PLA from MatterHackers. Would it be possible (and not a waste of PLA) to print out some Star Wars Yokes and gears?
It has been talked about before: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=133656.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=133656.0)
Not sure if they would break under wear and tear.
Also has anyone made a cover for their 3d printer? I am not sure about the IKEA lack mod, but the PVC enclosure looks cheaper an contains the heat, since the weather is getting colder.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=laTXCyLQIYs (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=laTXCyLQIYs)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5520E3zZoI8 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5520E3zZoI8)
Just read this. I’m actually building an enclosure this weekend. Bought 3 IKEA Lacks and am printing the parts as I type. I saw one some friends set up and it’s perfect.
Lately it has been getting cooler in the garage, and it has been hard to get the bed up to temperature. So that lack enclosure is becoming a necessity. Are you going with glass or lexon?
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Just read this. I’m actually building an enclosure this weekend. Bought 3 IKEA Lacks and am printing the parts as I type. I saw one some friends set up and it’s perfect.
Lately it has been getting cooler in the garage, and it has been hard to get the bed up to temperature. So that lack enclosure is becoming a necessity. Are you going with glass or lexon?
I’m going to go with plexi, but I’ve got a few ideas to give it a bit more flair. I’ll post pics as I build. Here’s where I’m currently at...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190225/caf0e77ae12dcce087a51946c3476f60.jpg)
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I've been thinking metal is the way to go. That way, if my printer ever has a meltdown and overheats it would have a harder time catching anything on fire. I can just put some foam board on the outside for insulation. I know that regardless, it needs to be designed in such a way that I still have full access to every angle of the printer. I don't know how many times I've been trying to insert new filament and I've ended up having to fully or partially take the extruder apart to get things going properly.
So I'm thinking the base and the sides/top need to be attached via latches so I can just unlatch from the bottom and lift the whole thing off if needed.
I know that the pvc pipe is probably a bad idea. It's cheaper, but pvc gets brittle over time, especially if it's exposed to sunlight so it might snap on you.
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I've been thinking metal is the way to go. That way, if my printer ever has a meltdown and overheats it would have a harder time catching anything on fire. I can just put some foam board on the outside for insulation. I know that regardless, it needs to be designed in such a way that I still have full access to every angle of the printer. I don't know how many times I've been trying to insert new filament and I've ended up having to fully or partially take the extruder apart to get things going properly.
So I'm thinking the base and the sides/top need to be attached via latches so I can just unlatch from the bottom and lift the whole thing off if needed.
I know that the pvc pipe is probably a bad idea. It's cheaper, but pvc gets brittle over time, especially if it's exposed to sunlight so it might snap on you.
Howard, if you look closely at my pic, the top section has a 3D printed piece between it and the middle table. It’s a connecting mechanism that allows me to lift the top off for easy maintenance.
It’s kind of like stacking cones. The bottom is a cone shaped piece. The top has a cone shaped hole in the bottom. I think it will work very well.
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I can't really tell from the pics, sorry about that man.
I've got some sheet metal lying around I might go ahead and pickup some aluminum L channel and try things my way. Not sure. If we had an ikea nearby I'd probably be doing it your way.
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Here, I zoomed in on the pic for you. You can see the two pieces.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190227/26f366cdbef8f726cb3370e51dd91f40.jpg)
Anyone here do Octoprint?
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That should work. I haven't really seen the need for Octoprint. It's a really cool idea, but these are Chinese printers so I'm too terrified to leave it unattended for too long.
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Just read this. I’m actually building an enclosure this weekend. Bought 3 IKEA Lacks and am printing the parts as I type. I saw one some friends set up and it’s perfect.
Lately it has been getting cooler in the garage, and it has been hard to get the bed up to temperature. So that lack enclosure is becoming a necessity. Are you going with glass or lexon?
I’m going to go with plexi, but I’ve got a few ideas to give it a bit more flair. I’ll post pics as I build. Here’s where I’m currently at...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190225/caf0e77ae12dcce087a51946c3476f60.jpg)
That looks awesome. Your prints look very nice indeed. :applaud: I cannot wait until it is finished. Are you going to add a temperature sensor too?
I have some lacks going spare (was for lack arcade) and I will do the same. I got one of IKEA's small BEKVÄM carts to put the printer on and have a spare PC underneath. I also got octoprint working on a Pi zero W, and I know about the streaming issue, but I bought the small camera for time lapse. Have you seen the palette pro yet?
https://www.mosaicmfg.com/ (https://www.mosaicmfg.com/) :o
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That should work. I haven't really seen the need for Octoprint. It's a really cool idea, but these are Chinese printers so I'm too terrified to leave it unattended for too long.
The first thing I did was add a MOSFET, so I’m pretty confident nothing is going to catch fire.
One thing I’m going to do when I move the setup over is the remove the power supply from the printer and mount it under the top enclosure. I’m also going to take the LCD off the top of the frame and move it to a more convenient location.
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Just read this. I’m actually building an enclosure this weekend. Bought 3 IKEA Lacks and am printing the parts as I type. I saw one some friends set up and it’s perfect.
Lately it has been getting cooler in the garage, and it has been hard to get the bed up to temperature. So that lack enclosure is becoming a necessity. Are you going with glass or lexon?
I’m going to go with plexi, but I’ve got a few ideas to give it a bit more flair. I’ll post pics as I build. Here’s where I’m currently at...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190225/caf0e77ae12dcce087a51946c3476f60.jpg)
That looks awesome. Your prints look very nice indeed. :applaud: I cannot wait until it is finished. Are you going to add a temperature sensor too?
I have some lacks going spare (was for lack arcade) and I will do the same. I got one of IKEA's small BEKVÄM carts to put the printer on and have a spare PC underneath. I also got octoprint working on a Pi zero W, and I know about the streaming issue, but I bought the small camera for time lapse. Have you seen the palette pro yet?
https://www.mosaicmfg.com/ (https://www.mosaicmfg.com/) :o
I’m probably going to buy a Pi for the project if I do it, so I’ll get a regular one, not the Zero. I do want to add a camera.
Also thinking about doing this auto level kit. Any experience/recommendations?
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190227/aad4fb78442bd9e7400f99284fb58963.jpg)
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The first thing I did was add a MOSFET, so I’m pretty confident nothing is going to catch fire.
I have one installed as well and it should take care of anything, but one time when I was changing the nozzle out the temp probe fell loose on the heater and if I hadn't been sitting right there it would have caught on fire. There are lots of little things that can go wrong that just makes me weary.
That bed leveling kit is a bit on the steep side. I think you can get what you actually need for $20 or less.
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The first thing I did was add a MOSFET, so I’m pretty confident nothing is going to catch fire.
I have one installed as well and it should take care of anything, but one time when I was changing the nozzle out the temp probe fell loose on the heater and if I hadn't been sitting right there it would have caught on fire. There are lots of little things that can go wrong that just makes me weary.
That bed leveling kit is a bit on the steep side. I think you can get what you actually need for $20 or less.
I’ve seen cheap knockoffs, but I’m a firm believer that you get what you pay for. The thing I like, if you read the reviews, is that the seller really stands behind the product. To me that’s worth the extra costs.
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No that's not what I mean. The "kit" that comes with the other parts is unnecessary. You can buy the same sensor by itself cheaper.
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No that's not what I mean. The "kit" that comes with the other parts is unnecessary. You can buy the same sensor by itself cheaper.
True, but it’s convenient that it’s all together, plus again the guy gives impeccable support. That’s worth it to me.
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Fair enough. Let me know how it works for you because I've been thinking of doing the auto-level mod but half of everybody out there says it isn't worth it. Never sure who to believe on these things. I just know that calibration is a pain in the butt when you haven't used it in a while.
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Fair enough. Let me know how it works for you because I've been thinking of doing the auto-level mod but half of everybody out there says it isn't worth it. Never sure who to believe on these things. I just know that calibration is a pain in the butt when you haven't used it in a while.
Yeah, I’ve actually gotten pretty good at just manually leveling my printer and tweaking it if need be. But I would like to try auto-leveling to see how well it works.
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have looked at octoprint.
seems like a better way to go than using an SD card.
Have a spare rpi2 somewhere i can use.
been waiting for my printer to show.
It's been "out for delivery" since this morning.
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Just read this. I’m actually building an enclosure this weekend. Bought 3 IKEA Lacks and am printing the parts as I type. I saw one some friends set up and it’s perfect.
Lately it has been getting cooler in the garage, and it has been hard to get the bed up to temperature. So that lack enclosure is becoming a necessity. Are you going with glass or lexon?
I’m going to go with plexi, but I’ve got a few ideas to give it a bit more flair. I’ll post pics as I build. Here’s where I’m currently at...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190225/caf0e77ae12dcce087a51946c3476f60.jpg)
Lookin' good. I built an enclosure for my ender 3 and after a while it just got to be a pain in the ass because I couldn't easily work on the printer. In a perfect world I wouldn't need to work on it, but I felt like I was always having a hard time. I'm only printing PLA in a cold basement so I didn't get much benefit from it anyway.
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Just read this. I’m actually building an enclosure this weekend. Bought 3 IKEA Lacks and am printing the parts as I type. I saw one some friends set up and it’s perfect.
Lately it has been getting cooler in the garage, and it has been hard to get the bed up to temperature. So that lack enclosure is becoming a necessity. Are you going with glass or lexon?
I’m going to go with plexi, but I’ve got a few ideas to give it a bit more flair. I’ll post pics as I build. Here’s where I’m currently at...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190225/caf0e77ae12dcce087a51946c3476f60.jpg)
Lookin' good. I built an enclosure for my ender 3 and after a while it just got to be a pain in the ass because I couldn't easily work on the printer. In a perfect world I wouldn't need to work on it, but I felt like I was always having a hard time. I'm only printing PLA in a cold basement so I didn't get much benefit from it anyway.
Good points, I’m building mine because I keep it in our spare bedroom, and I want it to not look like an eyesore if we have guests in there.
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Also thinking about doing this auto level kit. Any experience/recommendations?
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190227/aad4fb78442bd9e7400f99284fb58963.jpg)
Pulled the trigger on this kit. I’ll report back once it’s setup.
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Doing the post bed leveling print now.
Made adjustments while printing and I think I got it level.
hard to tell since it's just a big cricle with a cross hairs in it.
When that is done i'll print that boat or owls.
Also I knew how long it takes to print something because I watched real time videos, ect but seeing it....
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Yeah I don't use mine as much as I thought I would due to the time it takes to print stuff. It's useful for those specialized bits though.
If you like petg filament, amazon has a bit of a sale right now.....
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D6BYW5Q/ref=twister_B07DVL9DTD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D6BYW5Q/ref=twister_B07DVL9DTD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)
A little over 50 bucks for 5 spools or 17 for a single spool.
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Print time doesn’t bother me so much anymore now that I know I’ve got a pretty reliable set up. I just set it to print and forget about it until I know it’s going to be done.
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Yeah I don't use mine as much as I thought I would due to the time it takes to print stuff. It's useful for those specialized bits though.
If you like petg filament, amazon has a bit of a sale right now.....
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D6BYW5Q/ref=twister_B07DVL9DTD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D6BYW5Q/ref=twister_B07DVL9DTD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)
A little over 50 bucks for 5 spools or 17 for a single spool.
Oh WOW.
That's a good price.
I just spent $30 for two rolls of PLA.
and spent $17 for a roll of petg.
With PetG being easier to print i'm not sure i should bother with ABS.
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Because of my printers volume I could totally print something like this for use with an old 7" android tablet.
But is it worth it?
http://newforum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,143354.msg1486976.html#msg1486976
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Yeah I don't use mine as much as I thought I would due to the time it takes to print stuff. It's useful for those specialized bits though.
If you like petg filament, amazon has a bit of a sale right now.....
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D6BYW5Q/ref=twister_B07DVL9DTD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D6BYW5Q/ref=twister_B07DVL9DTD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)
A little over 50 bucks for 5 spools or 17 for a single spool.
Oh WOW.
That's a good price.
I just spent $30 for two rolls of PLA.
and spent $17 for a roll of petg.
With PetG being easier to print i'm not sure i should bother with ABS.
Yeah I thought I would pass it along but I'm reluctant to pull the trigger myself because I haven't really messed with petg yet. PLA gets the job done for most things. Anyone have any experience?
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Yeah I don't use mine as much as I thought I would due to the time it takes to print stuff. It's useful for those specialized bits though.
If you like petg filament, amazon has a bit of a sale right now.....
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D6BYW5Q/ref=twister_B07DVL9DTD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D6BYW5Q/ref=twister_B07DVL9DTD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)
A little over 50 bucks for 5 spools or 17 for a single spool.
Oh WOW.
That's a good price.
I just spent $30 for two rolls of PLA.
and spent $17 for a roll of petg.
With PetG being easier to print i'm not sure i should bother with ABS.
Yeah I thought I would pass it along but I'm reluctant to pull the trigger myself because I haven't really messed with petg yet. PLA gets the job done for most things. Anyone have any experience?
I'm printing up a tap handle as a test in PLA but I want these for outside so PET-G will be my next attempt if I like how this one comes out.
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Looks like the pla is on sale now
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D6BR95S/ref=twister_B07DVLQSN3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D6BR95S/ref=twister_B07DVLQSN3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)
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I only use Hatchbox filament. Is the Amazon Basics version any good?
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I don't have a clue, but I've never bought a bad amazon basics product before... I assume it's at least useable.
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I ordered the pet-g.
Will try it out later this week when it comes in.
And I look up the proper setting for my printer to use it.
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I'm about out of pla. In a month or two I'll go ahead and order from amazon to try it out.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190312/65516ea3d616e388faa6006d31c19d09.jpg)
Got Phase 1 of the overhaul completed. Once I mount it in the enclosure, I’ll be ready for Phase 2 - new fiberglass belts as well as the auto bed level sensor.
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Nice man. Which model are you using for the control box? I'm going to end up doing that mod as well.
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Nice man. Which model are you using for the control box? I'm going to end up doing that mod as well.
I used this: it’s a top mount faceplate:
Anet A8 LCD holder found on #Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2232518
For the sides and back I used some parts I had previously printed when it was mounted to the top. I found a faceplate I liked that I printed to cover the hole.
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It's looking good. Thanks for the link.
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It's looking good. Thanks for the link.
No problem.
I need to overhaul my belts. I printed out this Ikea Lack Switchboard...
found on #Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3329766
And the holes for the buttons were a bit too ovally for my tastes.
Anyone here use belt tensioners like this?
anet a8 y belt tensioner found on #Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2149867
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And the holes for the buttons were a bit too ovally for my tastes.
Anyone here use belt tensioners like this?
anet a8 y belt tensioner found on #Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2149867
I use one similar but it doesn't have the printed threads - just uses a nut and screw for that part. I did add a zip tie around the outer part as it seemed to want to spread under load. It's been working fine.
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And the holes for the buttons were a bit too ovally for my tastes.
Anyone here use belt tensioners like this?
anet a8 y belt tensioner found on #Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2149867
I use one similar but it doesn't have the printed threads - just uses a nut and screw for that part. I did add a zip tie around the outer part as it seemed to want to spread under load. It's been working fine.
Cool, thanks for the feedback
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I got my amazon basics pet-g in.
First attempt was a carabeaner.
235c nozzel and 85C bed.
A stringy mess but it printed.
I adjusted nozzel temp up to 238c and played around with wall thickness and layer height plus resolution and some other settings I don't fully understand yet. LOL!
and i only saw a little stringing at the beginning and heard the extruder clicking so I raised the Z height a tiny bit while printing (an option with my printer) and I think it looks good.
I choose to make this to test things are solid and because I have a puck light and I think it looks cool.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3434805
Will report back on how the filament performed in a day or two when it's done printing.
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A good friend of mine who uses his home 3-D printer to create arcade parts has been testing filament from many different manufacturers and tells me the Amazon Basics is actually pretty good for the price. So buy with confidence.
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A good friend of mine who uses his home 3-D printer to create arcade parts has been testing filament from many different manufacturers and tells me the Amazon Basics is actually pretty good for the price. So buy with confidence.
the pey-g laying down really nicely.
I hope it comes up.
I keep reading about people pulling up chips of their glass base trying to pry it off.
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Current status:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190318/abbe908d4cf50eb3d0d10feda5e62c68.jpg)
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locking wheels might be an idea.
I have mine on the dining room table and i've had to pull the table out twice to get behind it.
I think I need a cart also but it has to have wheels.
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Funny you mention that.... I was thinking maybe one of those metal carts might be a good alternative to the ikea end tables. At least for the bottom part. Been having trouble finding a good design though.
https://www.google.com/search?q=metal+cart&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwimrteX8ozhAhVCba0KHSdMDpoQ_AUIDigB&biw=1600&bih=827 (https://www.google.com/search?q=metal+cart&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwimrteX8ozhAhVCba0KHSdMDpoQ_AUIDigB&biw=1600&bih=827)
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The base on my printer is 22" x 24".
I need to build something for a radial arm saw.
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I've been thinking about this for my 3D printer. Even has power:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01H2BK9FU/?coliid=I1Q4CTUO17E5AX&colid=1WR9DR0THFUZH&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
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Yeah that's probably about perfect man. I wonder how sturdy it is.... hmm...
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I've been thinking about this for my 3D printer. Even has power:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01H2BK9FU/?coliid=I1Q4CTUO17E5AX&colid=1WR9DR0THFUZH&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Your post reminds me i'm thinking this might be next yrs winter project.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:724999
(https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/0a/3b/89/0e/7f/22ea150132a857d77868d1a0c25aa893_preview_featured.jpg)
Printing a PI and camera arm for my octopi setup now.
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I've been thinking about this for my 3D printer. Even has power:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01H2BK9FU/?coliid=I1Q4CTUO17E5AX&colid=1WR9DR0THFUZH&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Your post reminds me i'm thinking this might be next yrs winter project.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:724999
(https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/0a/3b/89/0e/7f/22ea150132a857d77868d1a0c25aa893_preview_featured.jpg)
Printing a PI and camera arm for my octopi setup now.
I have the parts to build that next
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I have the parts to build that next
you will get to it before me.
how big you going to build it?
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I have the parts to build that next
you will get to it before me.
how big you going to build it?
16 x 24 or so.
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I have the parts to build that next
you will get to it before me.
how big you going to build it?
16 x 24 or so.
Looking forward to seeing that build.
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Dialing in the PETG printing.
playing with retraction settings and temp settings and stringing is getting way better and less boogers on the nozzle.
just uploaded a petg profile to octoprint from curo 15.04 so when current print is done i'll try that.
then i'll print the parts for the rpi clops 3d scanner and order the electronics to make it work.
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Update on the enclosure
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190323/cfda9ea43b712cfa6c4928c0a59cf829.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190323/9a67f01afd7ea8399f1c33806c64227b.jpg)
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You know, even though it's cheap I hate to pay more for shipping than I do for the actual product out of sheer principle, but that is looking really good. I might have to re-evaluate my plans. Keep up the good work Yots.
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You know, even though it's cheap I hate to pay more for shipping than I do for the actual product out of sheer principle, but that is looking really good. I might have to re-evaluate my plans. Keep up the good work Yots.
Thanks, Howard. I got more up my sleeve ;)
My plan is to paint the outside of the walls black like the table, but the inside walls will be white so the chamber itself isn’t so dark.
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Did you tack up an LED strip in there yet?
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Did you tack up an LED strip in there yet?
Not yet. Still planning the best way to do that
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Update - I routed out the window chambers in order to fit them for plexi. Just a tiny bit more work, but it will be worth it.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190324/46f5987774889b2600150dacf612954e.jpg)
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Did you tack up an LED strip in there yet?
Not yet. Still planning the best way to do that
that's pretty.
do all the sides come off easy?
I'm currently printing up an led strip hanger for my printer.
It's has two 6 inch sections of led strips that hang on either side of the z axis bar.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3193997
(https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/23/db/62/08/59/f025ec3fb025bf7a30e97d9e231b3640_preview_featured.jpg)
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Also petg is NOT for detail work or small parts or parts with overhangs.
Boxes, case ect and simple parts that move like the articulating arm for the camera i'm using for octoprint? yes.
I've picked up some pla (pro/plus/premium) it requires a higher temp but is stronger and more flexible and looks like it lays down really well.
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Did you tack up an LED strip in there yet?
Not yet. Still planning the best way to do that
that's pretty.
do all the sides come off easy?
The enclosure is designed so that the whole top is supposed to come off, but me being the tinkerer that I am, I’m going to use magnets so that I can pop a side off quickly if I need to.
More Pix
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190325/fbc93d9b7bd9a6d2a7b575c904f4475d.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190325/00cf51951c94dfbcb0b9f6a4826a13bc.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190325/d3d8e9fe5bdd488c74d2ad40cc5b909d.jpg)
Still need to drill the holes to mount the switches for that plate.
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Black painted. Of course, it being black paint, it gets everywhere. Oh well, will sand and touch up the white side. Once all is dry.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190325/1ae460ccb2f1dd13f6032e2043f6ea21.jpg)
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Did you tack up an LED strip in there yet?
Not yet. Still planning the best way to do that
that's pretty.
do all the sides come off easy?
I'm currently printing up an led strip hanger for my printer.
It's has two 6 inch sections of led strips that hang on either side of the z axis bar.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3193997
(https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/23/db/62/08/59/f025ec3fb025bf7a30e97d9e231b3640_preview_featured.jpg)
/fail.
the clips for this were too delicate.
for me at least.
I think I need to design my own.
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Had some time today to work on the wiring...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190415/dc193b2d6332f2c8d2dfb8b586cd87c9.jpg)
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Are those the 16mm buttons you see on ebay all the time? I need some for a project and I'm wondering if you are satisfied with them.
*edit* Nevermind on the endtables…. looking at the dimensions they are probably too small.
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Are those the 16mm buttons you see on ebay all the time? I need some for a project and I'm wondering if you are satisfied with them.
*edit* Nevermind on the endtables…. looking at the dimensions they are probably too small.
I like the buttons - they’re a solid metal. I soldered all the connection last night and tested. They light up only when activated, which is what I wanted.
The fit with the table is going to be tight for the Anet A8. I’m relocating the power supply out of the chamber. More later!
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Thanks man. Never mind about that end table comment... I had linked to a pair of end tables on sale 2 for $16 at Walmart, but looking at the dimensions they are just too small.
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Thanks man. Never mind about that end table comment... I had linked to a pair of end tables on sale 2 for $16 at Walmart, but looking at the dimensions they are just too small.
I don’t suppose you have an IKEA around you, do you?
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Nah. Shipping actually isn't terrible, but I'd pay more for shipping than the tables. :) I've got other projects atm so I'm not going to sweat it until I'm ready to start.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190425/f81307aad69e436aae6c93a75f65ff02.jpg)
Got my auto leveling bed kit set up and all the power wiring for my enclosure done. Printing dragon tokens for ZapCon ‘19 now! The only way you out of towner’s will be able to get in to Contributor Night on Friday will be to have one of these, so don’t forget to let me know what color you want!
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Beige.
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glow in the dark
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190425/486565587522515fe7ecfd76e8dc08af.gif)
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then red I guess?
Haruman printed me a glow in the dark pickle rick
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Silver, white, or black.
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Silver I guess, buy some filament :p
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...buy some filament :p
Not that I have any say but some glow in the dark filament would be cool. Or if there are any UV lights some UV filament would be cool too.
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Chartreuse.
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...buy some filament :p
Not that I have any say but some glow in the dark filament would be cool. Or if there are any UV lights some UV filament would be cool too.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190425/1164a40c40ffe8e20dbfb02c787a9659.gif)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190425/1164a40c40ffe8e20dbfb02c787a9659.gif)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190425/1164a40c40ffe8e20dbfb02c787a9659.gif)
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Id chip in
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How about Light Brown M&M?
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Ok, just ordered Glow In The Dark filament. Just ‘cause I love you bitches
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190425/a2d8e7f9042c2d60ac83683a410a275f.gif)
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...buy some filament :p
Not that I have any say but some glow in the dark filament would be cool. Or if there are any UV lights some UV filament would be cool too.
(https://media.tenor.com/images/bcf4d183aefc4cb5a559dafc0c3c7435/tenor.gif)
(https://media.tenor.com/images/bcf4d183aefc4cb5a559dafc0c3c7435/tenor.gif)
(https://media.tenor.com/images/bcf4d183aefc4cb5a559dafc0c3c7435/tenor.gif)
Listen you sod. I want to come to Zapcon but there are larger powers at work. :P Until then I will be doing the following:
(https://media1.tenor.com/images/4d949a4ebfdc31b986a2bfe784a0f989/tenor.gif)
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...buy some filament :p
Not that I have any say but some glow in the dark filament would be cool. Or if there are any UV lights some UV filament would be cool too.
(https://media.tenor.com/images/bcf4d183aefc4cb5a559dafc0c3c7435/tenor.gif)
(https://media.tenor.com/images/bcf4d183aefc4cb5a559dafc0c3c7435/tenor.gif)
(https://media.tenor.com/images/bcf4d183aefc4cb5a559dafc0c3c7435/tenor.gif)
Listen you sod. I want to come to Zapcon but there are larger powers at work. :P
Ond has come twice. From another hemisphere. From another continent. No excuses.
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I fully expect Ond to look like the gyro captain in the Road Warrior.
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If he doesn't land a home made gyrocopter in the convention center parking lot I will be very disappointed.
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Dudes, after having made three prints on this, and having got it dialed in perfectly, there’s no way in hell I’ll never have another printer that doesn’t do auto bed leveling.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190426/e48999ffe2f813c137fe2de5d5af5bb4.jpg)
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Tea. Earl Grey. Hot.
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Tea. Earl Grey. Hot.
I already got you guys glow in the dark.
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You gave an inch... figured I'd go for a foot... >:D
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You gave an inch... figured I'd go for a foot... >:D
I got your foot RIGHT HERE **grabs crotch**
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Dudes, after having made three prints on this, and having got it dialed in perfectly, there’s no way in hell I’ll never have another printer that doesn’t do auto bed leveling.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190426/e48999ffe2f813c137fe2de5d5af5bb4.jpg)
Damn, well now I've got to get the auto level kit. I'm going to end up doing the full mod aren't I?
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so don’t forget to let me know what color you want!
Prefer black, happy with any! EDIT: Uh, 30 second rule now that I read everything. Glow sounds cool too :)
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Sweet! Would love Glowy! Thanks Brother!
What type of plastics do you currently do on your rig?
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I’m just printing glows and black. Eff silver and white. :)
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Sweet! Would love Glowy! Thanks Brother!
What type of plastics do you currently do on your rig?
Just PLA. Noting too fancy.
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Gotta stick with your guns. I pretty much do ABS and nothing else. 8)
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I kind of want to try abs but even with the upgraded power supply I don't know if these prusa clones are really up to printing high temp materials.
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I have a prusa clone (Tevo Tarrantula) and I can never get ABS to stick to the bed...
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My technique for getting ABS to stick -
Heat the bed up pretty high
Let it get nice and dirty with glue stick. a thick coat is not a bad thing. I rarely clean the bed, just put another layer of glue stick on. I will put a damp paper towel on a hot bed to even out the layers of glue stick if it the glue gets too thick or uneven.
Have the first layer really tight to the bed. The layer should be smashing a little against the plate.
I do that, and I can get the smallest parts to stick without needing a raft or skirt.
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What’s the benefit of printing ABS over PLA?
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ABS is stronger
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Stronger, doesn't degrade outdoors, higher melting point. Downside other than the heated bed that needs to be tuned to prevent slipping is the extrusion stinks a bit like burny plastic. A lot of people prefer to have ventilation when printing ABS. I kinda like the sheen on PLA better, but for hard parts I like ABS.
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Winter is coming...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190428/ee21bb37aa2d944cb86fb08f07104629.jpg)
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---That which is odiferous and causeth plants to grow---... 97 god forsaken degrees... Winter my eye!
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This is winter. Freakin' snow at the end of April. Go mow your dust.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190428/f09147f9881f23782b84669c0d244994.jpg)
Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
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My dog "uh boss, tell me again why it is we are up at 2.00 in the morning?"
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376969;image)
Me "Cos dummy, I'm switching over to Merica time to reduce jetlag"
My dog "oh, right."
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It's not our fault you live in upside down land.
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It's not our fault you live in upside down land.
Yeah, not only that, but I have to travel into the past to get to you guys!
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Just need to construct the front door, and this IKEA enclosure project will be finished
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190428/02ec6dd9b3442336e0667f544bc39c6b.jpg)
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That's nice work.
You need to move it away from the Rocky poster though. It looks like he is using your 3D printer as a urinal.
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You did a good job of turning that cheap 3D printer into a solid productive machine. And you made it look good too.
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You did a good job of turning that cheap 3D printer into a solid productive machine. And you made it look good too.
Yeah, I’ve gotten a ton of mileage out of my initial investment. Can’t complain.
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That's nice work.
You need to move it away from the Rocky poster though. It looks like he is using your 3D printer as a urinal.
Naw, he’s rubbing one out back there.
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I got Octoprint set up right now. Printing somthin’ for Jimmah ...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190428/20908542e5e5613d2bde1ee308458754.jpg)
Almost ready to go!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190428/d7ed6bde9a138b1b20b1e80515490a90.jpg)
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Yeah, not only that, but I have to travel into the past to get to you guys!
Just means you get younger every time you visit!
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This is winter. Freakin' snow at the end of April. Go mow you dust.
Thats weird that you are Southwest of me Mike and you got snow. We just got the cold.
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Yeah. It snowed all day Saturday. We got a few inches. It was all gone by Sunday afternoon.
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It's 80 here. We've gone past the edge... probably never have normal weather again.
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Stronger, doesn't degrade outdoors, higher melting point. Downside other than the heated bed that needs to be tuned to prevent slipping is the extrusion stinks a bit like burny plastic. A lot of people prefer to have ventilation when printing ABS. I kinda like the sheen on PLA better, but for hard parts I like ABS.
havn't done abs yet but getting decent prints with petg.
It isn't for detail work, get some stringing and boogers but not so bad as when I first started using it.
strong stuff.
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I got Octoprint set up right now. Printing somthin’ for Jimmah ...
img width=1024 height=766]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190428/20908542e5e5613d2bde1ee308458754.jpg[/img]
Almost ready to go!
img width=477 height=1024]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190428/d7ed6bde9a138b1b20b1e80515490a90.jpg[/img]
Are you sure he will like it?
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Well why I wanted to try abs was the fact that you can melt two pieces together with a bit of acetone as well as smooth it in a vapor bath. Seems like two very useful properties.
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I got Octoprint set up right now. Printing somthin’ for Jimmah ...
img width=1024 height=766]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190428/20908542e5e5613d2bde1ee308458754.jpg[/img]
Almost ready to go!
img width=477 height=1024]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190428/d7ed6bde9a138b1b20b1e80515490a90.jpg[/img]
Are you sure he will like it?
Jimmah is all about the dickbutt. He asked for one, actually. I have one for him and one for Malenko.
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Well why I wanted to try abs was the fact that you can melt two pieces together with a bit of acetone as well as smooth it in a vapor bath. Seems like two very useful properties.
This.
need to get some to try.
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Been refurbing a pin for ZapCon. Missing posts? No problem!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190502/1c6534124cd553fe8118bc4d5409c1d1.jpg)
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Soon...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190502/51a49cbd5dd366dc0fb5a716ddb002f7.jpg)
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“Glowy Dragons don’t beg the world for attention; their beauty forces us to look up.”
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Well, the glow-in-the-dark filament ruined my printer extruder gear, so there’s only three of them. You guys can fight to the death for them.
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I've had glow filament eat away at a nozzle, how did it damage your extruder gear?
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Well, the glow-in-the-dark filament ruined my printer extruder gear, so there’s only three of them. You guys can fight to the death for them.
You get what you get and you don't get upset. (He says, as he tries to change his plane ticket to Thursday.)
Sorry to hear that it caused you trouble.
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Well, the glow-in-the-dark filament ruined my printer extruder gear, so there’s only three of them. You guys can fight to the death for them.
gummed it up badly or something?
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Well, the glow-in-the-dark filament ruined my printer extruder gear, so there’s only three of them. You guys can fight to the death for them.
Have you upgraded to stainless steel nozzles yet? They seem to work better.
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Well, the glow-in-the-dark filament ruined my printer extruder gear, so there’s only three of them. You guys can fight to the death for them.
Have you upgraded to stainless steel nozzles yet? They seem to work better.
I just installed one, literally right now
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Love my dragon!
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Love my dragon!
You’re welcome, brotherman!
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Mine isn't chartreuse, but I guess it is okay.
Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
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So, one of you big, strong 3D printer owners up for a challenge?
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So, one of you big, strong 3D printer owners up for a challenge?
Got a part number? also need some measurements.
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It's a power switch off a Retro Duo. :lol
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Ok, so this is bideo gamez related, if not arcade.
Picked up a 7800 at ZapCon this year. Robotron is cool, but holding both joysticks to play can be unwieldy. A trip to Thingiverse and 20 hours later...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190913/4cdd18e9d37ccc1a4962ae88fd545857.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190913/3fe5c8e26a88e62f88349541d3628e38.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190913/378ee1533df1087d697f2fd9c17debeb.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190913/85e59e007c99dde8f7d9cd001eba1b2f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190913/34ae09e5aa7a223e9454812381d87e83.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190913/e2d9ad0d565355e6bdf6945e43e256f0.jpg)
Time to get my Robotron on!
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Ok, so this is bideo gamez related, if not arcade.
Picked up a 7800 at ZapCon this year. Robotron is cool, but holding both joysticks to play can be unwieldy. A trip to Thingiverse and 20 hours later...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190913/e2d9ad0d565355e6bdf6945e43e256f0.jpg)
Time to get my Robotron on!
Now that ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- there is the schnizzle. Even better then the solid egg cup holder a friend of mine printed :laugh2: :laugh2:
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Ok, so this is bideo gamez related, if not arcade.
Picked up a 7800 at ZapCon this year. Robotron is cool, but holding both joysticks to play can be unwieldy. A trip to Thingiverse and 20 hours later...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190913/e2d9ad0d565355e6bdf6945e43e256f0.jpg)
Time to get my Robotron on!
Now that ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- there is the schnizzle. Even better then the solid egg cup holder a friend of mine printed :laugh2: :laugh2:
Yeah, I’m printing a second one for a friend of mine right now. I got the print time cut in half by using some recommended settings, so we’ll see how the new version comes out.
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That is pretty awesome. I remember the 7200 version of Robotron being a pretty good port.
If I were you, I'd increase the spacing between the two controllers. It could help with keeping it stable, as well as not banging each hand into one another.
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That is pretty awesome. I remember the 7200 version of Robotron being a pretty good port.
If I were you, I'd increase the spacing between the two controllers. It could help with keeping it stable, as well as not banging each hand into one another.
It’s cool, I tested it out. The throw isn’t that bad and it works just fine. The whole thing kind of fits in your hands and use your thumbs in front of the sticks to manipulate everything. It’s almost like holding a large console controller.
If you make it to ZapCon next year, I’ll bring it to the PAC house.
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I kinda regret sleeping on the 7800 as a kid now that you've been posting about it and I've looked at some of these ports. I actually pulled one out of the trash with games and controllers back in the late 80s but gave it to my uncle that already had one. Oh well, that's what Ebay is for. You bring the system and I'll bring some chicken wings.
:cheers:
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I kinda regret sleeping on the 7800 as a kid now that you've been posting about it and I've looked at some of these ports. I actually pulled one out of the trash with games and controllers back in the late 80s but gave it to my uncle that already had one. Oh well, that's what Ebay is for. You bring the system and I'll bring some chicken wings.
:cheers:
Sure brother. I picked up a boxing game and Touchdown Football and it should be here next week.
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7800 is on my console get list, but I tend to try and find consoles at a yard sale, ect instead of giving up the hunt and jumping to flea bay. I've got to admit though, finding anything older than a n64 out in the wild is getting tough around here.
Before the NES me and my cousins would play on the 7800 for hours.... of course I was too young to know at the time that they got them a 7800 and supplied them mostly with 2600 carts you could get for a couple of bucks post-crash.
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7800 is on my console get list, but I tend to try and find consoles at a yard sale, ect instead of giving up the hunt and jumping to flea bay. I've got to admit though, finding anything older than a n64 out in the wild is getting tough around here.
Before the NES me and my cousins would play on the 7800 for hours.... of course I was too young to know at the time that they got them a 7800 and supplied them mostly with 2600 carts you could get for a couple of bucks post-crash.
I had never seen one in the wild back in the day, but I’ve always wanted to get one when I learned about them. I got kind of lucky they had one at ZapCon fairly inexpensively.
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I can remember the "under 50 bucks!?!" commercials.
:lol
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Oh yeah. When they started releasing it with the nes-like gamepad... it was pretty sad how dumb they thought the average consumer was. I love me some 7800, but it's hot garbage compared to the Nintendo.