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Looks really nice. I wish I had access to a 3D printer but if I bought one I know I'd only use it a couple of times a year, if that.  It looks like it provides options for things that would be too difficult to make by hand. Opens up a lot of possibilities.

Thanks, for a long time I did without a 3D printer in this hobby. I guess I have made a few things by hand which I could have 3D printed more easily. I regard them as a tool, not as a hobby in and of themselves with one caveat, you need to have 3D design skills to truly use them as as a tool. I’ve got a long list of projects (in other craft hobby areas) that include 3D printed elements. I may move into resin printing eventually, maybe.

So before looking at the latest build progress, I just wanted to check my design reference for work so far completed. My reference is always the original back-glass artwork from the PC game:

So far, I’ve reproduced the drawn speaker grill area in 3D and I'm using a cut-out window to reveal the DMD on screen. In theory I should be able to play other tables and adapt the back-glass art work to the physical layout. They all have similar speaker/DMD/back glass artwork configurations. I may need to tweak some back-glass files for games that don’t quite fit:

I painted the rest of the back box today, final primer coat and one coat only (in multiple passes) of black:

Second coat of primer on the main cabinet, one to go:

I’m using these 3D printed inserts in all the button holes on the cabinet:

The reason for these is my choice of buttons.  They are these cheap illuminated buttons sold in the shop I work in.  I have boxes full of unused quality Japanese (Seimitsu and Sanwa) as well as Happ buttons I could use, but I really wanted to use these illuminated buttons in this case. They have this raised edge which is meant to fit into a plastic ring which sits between the cabinet panel and the button. I hated the ring thingies, so threw I them away  :

The buttons fit into the inserts perfectly:

Next post will be of the completed back-box with monitor installed and lit!

vk

Bae wake up, new GUN4ALL update just dropped.

Mostly fixes, but notable inclusions are:

• External NeoPixels actually work now, and I've verified this for sure lol.
• Temperature sensor support is properly fixed and merged, meaning just one build for each board that covers all possible configurations! No more confusing -tmp36 builds.
• D-pads are now mapped to the gamepad slot's d-pad, rather than the keyboard.
• Other various fixes and improvements.

And on the other end, the new GUI update now supports rebooting connected guns to the bootloader mode, to make updating to this version that much easier! Granted, this one required kind of a dirty hack that utilizes the OS's own apps to perform this function (because Qt just wasn't cooperating), but turns out that the mode and stty cli apps are pretty much standard across Windows and Linux, respectively! So it shouldn't be an issue. The Linux build will also now detect if the running user is in the dialout group at startup, and give a command for the user to copy/paste into a terminal to do it (again, using the aforementioned hack, but also again, groups and usermod are standard on Unix).

At some point, I'd definitely love to get over-the-air updates going with the GUI, to make it literally one-click. And unless any other bugs crop up, the only thing left on my bucket list is re-exposing full button function mapping functionality. Fun!

You kids today

High school class of ‘81 baby!  Now get off my lawn
TTC


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memory slots

IT HAS A WIFI CARD!!!!
that's not common

inside

Thanks for the info Randy, I ended buying the Creality V3 KE. My discount to myself was generous 

Reprinted a few parts for my project with some improvements.  I'm happy with the results:

Spiffy!  So, on the webs, did you tweak some things to deposit like that or were there more manual artistic shenanigans used?

Thanks, that web print is as per the mesh that I designed:

Basically started with circles and line type objects and injected several noise modifiers to get the look.

Something interesting is extracting game meshes, smoothing them into high-res models, then outputting to STL for printing. A complex mesh would best be divided up into several parts to reduce supporting structures and printing complexity. Here's an example I extracted just for fun (legalities aside  - Armor frame from Fallout 4: