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31   Driving & Racing Cabinets / Re: Sega Rally Championshipon Yesterday at 12:56:26 am

Started by isamu - Last post by negative1

hah, i'm still processing your posts above on the track swapping. Will probably mean i need to adjust the swaps i've already set up. Does the championship mode work for two player link?

Never even heard of SR2006, but Japanese only so that'd be why. Let us know how your eval goes!

yes, for the track swaps to work, some of them, you need to put it easy mode,
so that there are only 2 laps.

for championship, there are only a limited number of combinations that work, so that
you have enough time to finish. i've listed those above.

i will make a video at some point in time. but there's not much interest though...

i have no idea about networking.

have never played a linked game or online.

single player only forever.


sega rally 2006 was a japanese ps2 game, that is incredibly hard.

it has arcade mode and huge career mode:

lots of patches for it:

This game has over 470 track variations and is considered the last real Sega Rally. Here are several looking better than ever with the draw distance patch applied running at 1080p60 on the PCSX2 Playstation 2 Emulator. Enjoy.

it also includes the original sega rally arcade championship too:

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32   Driving & Racing Cabinets / Re: Sega Rally Championshipon Yesterday at 12:34:20 am

Started by isamu - Last post by buttersoft

hah, i'm still processing your posts above on the track swapping. Will probably mean i need to adjust the swaps i've already set up. Does the championship mode work for two player link?

Never even heard of SR2006, but Japanese only so that'd be why. Let us know how your eval goes!

33   Driving & Racing Cabinets / Re: Over Jump Rallyon Yesterday at 12:30:05 am

Started by Fursphere - Last post by negative1

34   Driving & Racing Cabinets / Re: Sega Rally Championshipon Yesterday at 12:26:48 am

Started by isamu - Last post by negative1

awesome news, was just thinking about sega rally 2006 - japanese only.

most of the menus, and text translated to english:

Code: [Select]
Notable translations

Career Mode intro and profile creation.
Career Mode top menus (Calendar, trophies, etc.).
Calendar race names, vehicle restrictions, and rewards.
Garage and Shop menus, including part and tire names, descriptions, and tuning menu.
Pre-race splash screens.
Sponsorship contract tutorials and objectives.

Translations are NOT meant to be accurate. The UTF-16LE encoding format means the *exact* same number of bytes must be used as the original text, and Japanese can fit a lot more information in less space than English (especially without spaces!).
Graphics that display text (read: not actual text) are not translated. While textures can be found, an easy way to edit them is not currently available.
Limited testing has been done at writing, and undiscovered bugs may be present.

testing it now.

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Started by Duffy - Last post by Zebidee

Maybe you want to specify the display in mame.ini?

On last (fourth) tab in VMMaker, there is a checkbox to export settings to mame.ini - make sure that is ticked and the right executable (*.exe) selected. This allows VMMaker to update mame.ini.

Only other thing I can think of is your transcoder - maybe it is sending monitor ID (EDID) signals of it's own? Seems unlikely, though if you've got one of the ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- ones floating around on Aliexpress right now then who knows for sure.

You could generate a log file and attach it here - this should show what monitor Groovymame is trying to use.

EDIT: Instructions for generating a log file are at the bottom of all Calamity's posts.

36   Driving & Racing Cabinets / Re: fooling with m2emu networkon July 15, 2024, 11:19:49 pm

Started by SailorSat - Last post by buttersoft

I meant to say thanks for the reply, Sailorsat! Still having trouble reaching the forums.

Started by Duffy - Last post by Duffy

I have a Radeon HD 5450 2GB GDDR3 (DVI-I, HDMI, VGA), iím using a VGA to Component transcoder
With success, but some issues.

The same one from Calamityís guide here

In the guide he mentions that heís using an HD 5450, there are two analog ports, and to use analog1
for the 5450. No mention of AIB (whether visiontek, sapphire etc. unsure if it matters).

Iím wondering about this because I'm having some issues where groovymame doesnít start on the crt through launchbox.. sometimes.

Something odd that happened this afternoon,I uninstalled every video driver and did a ddu cleanup for both my nvidia card and this amd card, reinstalled crimson and nvidia drivers, reinstalled  crtemudriver, and in VMMaker,
Analog1 was there. I enabled edid for it, but all that happened was my oled screen flickered (no signal from crt).
I went to the drop down again and the options were changed to just analog0 and the two digital outputs. I enabled edid again with analog0 selected, and then I get a stable signal from my crt. Still having the groovymame starting on the oled sometimes issue.

Here are my outs, thanks for takin a look man.

Started by sellsellsell2000 - Last post by sellsellsell2000

Ultimate Marvel vs Capcom 3 for New Astro City:

Started by sellsellsell2000 - Last post by sellsellsell2000

Street Fighter Zero 3 for New Astro City:

Started by Rocketeer2001 - Last post by tiger1900

Hi Rocketeer2001!

I joined this forum to ask you a question.

I just happened to be working on the same D9200 monitor. I fully recapped it, reflowed all the boards and it worked great, but it would start making a arc noise every so often; after heating up, it increased. I found if you take the factory sealed VR901 and turn it counter clockwise (raising the resistance) the arcing stops (this also scales the picture larger...??? - note: I wrote down the original value before tweaking the pot). This is also demonstrated in one of the YouTube videos you linked.

Reason why I said "it worked great" was because I decided to do some poking around the board. My monitor is outside of a cabinet, and using a temperature gun I clocked the 2SC5144 getting close to 140f (60c). around this temperature I started getting wacky horizontal happenings (4 hours outside of the cabinet in an 85f (29.4c) ambient temperature room).

I decided it needed new thermal paste. So I took some MX-4 I had sitting around, took out the screw... that's when I noticed the screw for my 2SC5144 (Q418) wasn't tight at all. Without desoldering it, I bent the chip out of the way, used an alcohol wipe to remove the old white silicon, which was totally dry and cracking off both sides of the gray silicone pad, caked on some MX-4 on both sides and replaced it, this time cranking down the screw.

I restored power, and I got a squealing sound now from the monitor that was originally dead silent. Hmmm, was there a reason it was on there loose?

I loosened the screw... still squealing, and a burning smell (still in contact with heatsink); I then powered it up with the chip bent away from the heatsink (cleaning position) and the squealing stopped, it was back to normal. Was this a cracked solder joint? (nope).

I tried to put the screw in loose again, the squealing returned (each of these time, the monitor was only powered for a short period before disconnecting). Lastly, I pulled it away from the heatsink again, and when I powered it up, a FLAME shot from the screw hole! (anyone reading this, yes that whole thing was irresponsible, but it could survive momentarily without a heatsink, a flame shouldn't had shot from it... as far as I know).

I thought to myself, maybe I damaged the casing, cranking it down. The heatsink is just a plate, maybe a burr dug through the silicone pad?

After cleaning  the chip, I found where the flame shot out. I felt the heatsink hole and there is a burr around the hole. I wonder if this had anything to do with it getting damaged? I wouldn't think bending the leads would had done it.

Question: Every time you replaced the 2SC5144, did you more than "snug" the screw for Q418 also?

I think I read in a post that you were getting B+ (170v measured from either side R854) and the majority of your components were fine before the catastrophic failure.
Even though this 2SC5144 had a flame shoot from it, it still tests PERFECTLY! Both in a device like the one you shared, and the way Princess Prin Prin demonstrated.

I ordered a new 2SC5144 and will install it later this week. I plan on deburring the hole and just snugging the screw this time. I feel mine was already on its way out, but my mishandling helped it a bit.

Testing the surrounding circuit. Everything is fine. I cut power every time there was an oddity, and only left the screeching going until I could identify the noisy component.

I think, I'm only the 2nd person to work on this chasis. I'm sure I was the first to touch the 2SC5144 since factory.
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