Edit: Did you chose your joysticks already? That slim panel might limit your choices.
Anyhow, I did some quick-n-dirty mockups tonight to get a feel for the box. One thing that was bothering me was wondering if the joystick ball would partially obstruct the LCD. It doesn't, thankfully. (Unless the player is very short.)
Anyhow, I did some quick-n-dirty mockups tonight to get a feel for the box. One thing that was bothering me was wondering if the joystick ball would partially obstruct the LCD. It doesn't, thankfully. (Unless the player is very short.)
I think you're underestimating how much room controls need under the panel. I don't think you'll be able to get the trackball that low on the CP and your last two buttons towards the edge of your CP seem to be outside the wall of your cabinet. These could be due to your renderings not being exact measurements or maybe the renderings are just playing tricks on my eyes.
red yellow green blue....not blue green. seriously. roy g biv anyone?
Anyhow, I did some quick-n-dirty mockups tonight to get a feel for the box.Wow, where did you find that game, the polygon count looks awesome :)
Thanks! I bought the Lilliput LCD from Extreme Audio Electronics, a Hong Kong store. (Thanks, Quarterback,
Anyone know how to get one of these running off of an ATX power supply?
Oh, the only other thing is you have to jumper the pins on the ATX power supply's motherboard connector to get the powe supply to turn on without a motherboard.
I'm not clear on this one. Why wouldn't this cab be like a regular computer, where I can turn the power on from a motherboard switch? Or are you suggesting I just use the PSU power switch as my power switch for the whole cab? (Good idea.)
Ok, I'll have to do a little homework (and pick up a multimeter) before I start splicing wires. I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to things electrical. But this looks like it won't be too bad.
I had been wondering, actually, if something like this would work:
(http://www.crazypc.com/images/cables/wires/quikklik/quikklikdisbig.jpg)
http://www.crazypc.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=120199&Product_Code=5408 (http://www.crazypc.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=120199&Product_Code=5408)
Cool! Thanks for the detailed help!
You should, of course, confirm that before blaming me for setting your new cab on fire ;D
Might end up buying a laptop harddrive to save some inches. (By the way, does anyone know if I can mount a harddrive at a slight angle without any problems, or does it have to be level?)
How big are you looking to get for your drive? You could look into the memory cards with an IDE converter.
any updates?
I think the design and logo are really sweet! Show us more...
Okay, here's a question for the power gurus around here. Will this mini PSU be enough to power my cab?
Any help you can give would be great. Thanks!
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f278/retrogamebox2/mobo.jpg)
Wooo, where did you get that from??
I like the one with the tiled texture. I think you need to lose the gradient and texture on the type and put that bold outline on it.
It's just a bit short if you compare it to most Sanwa mountings, but the size of my cab plus the mini balltop make it seem okay to me. (But maybe I'm biased. Does it look too short to you guys?)How low is the bottom of the monitor in relation to the top of the CP? You're hand might block your view of the screen if the stick is too tall.
How low is the bottom of the monitor in relation to the top of the CP? You're hand might block your view of the screen if the stick is too tall.
One weird thing happened tonight, though. The Soundbite pumped out the audio for MAME and some MP3s really nicely, but wouldn't play the audio straight from a CD. Anyone know why? A software glitch, or maybe because it gets the audio over the USB cable?
The short version is, yes, it's because you're using USB speakers.
Long, boring, skip-if-you-don't-really-care version...
One minor suggestion...
You might want to make your pixelbox marquee color order match that of your buttons.
I look forward to seeing your progress. I will race your with my tabletop that I am working on. It has been going a bit slow but I am picking up steam.
You might want to make your pixelbox marquee color order match that of your buttons.
the white sides will give the "Pixelbox" a smaller looking appearance
Maybe the color depends on where it'll be sitting when it's done.
In a dark room? White.
In a white room? Black.
In a beige room? What are you, some kind of nancy?
Another addition is I'm trying to design in a little plastic flip-up handle for easy carrying. The challenge is trying to guess where a good pivot point would be. The cab looks a little front heavy at this point, so the handle will have to be towards the back of the top panel.
okay, gotcha. I was thinking "move from shelf to table" and you were thinking "walk down the street to the coffee shop." (I still think I'd look kind of funny, though, walking down the street with a little arcade machine strapped to my back. :))
Anyhow, I think the handle will suffice for most handling. But for longer trips a padded carrying case is a great idea. Not sure how I'll go about it (learn to sew?) but it's something I'd like to look into. Thanks!
The pee-pee box?
I think I'll stick with the DC brick. :)
(But if you build one, let me know.)
(http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/23172.jpg)
Beech Pull- top 23127- Projects 3/4'' . 2-1/2'' boring.
Solid Oak Pull- center 33324- is 4-5/16'' wide and 2'' high overall. Requires a mortise of 3-13/16'' wide x 1-13/16'' high x 7/16'' deep. Projects approximately 3/8'' .
Surface Mounted Drawer Pull- bottom 33316- Unfinished solid oak pull is approximately 4-1/2'' wide x 1-3/4'' high overall. Sanded smooth, ready for finishing. Mounts from the rear with machine screws included with the pull. Projects approximately 7/8'' . 3-3/8'' .
Why don't you set a drawer-pull handle into the backside?
I'll have a couple big updates pretty soon. Stay tuned! :)
DittoI'll have a couple big updates pretty soon. Stay tuned! :)
Looking forward to seeing the updates!
Another addition is I'm trying to design in a little plastic flip-up handle for easy carrying. The challenge is trying to guess where a good pivot point would be. The cab looks a little front heavy at this point, so the handle will have to be towards the back of the top panel.
What about straps so you can carry it on your back?
Hey, whatever happened to this?
How will you be attaching the acrylic pieces together?
QuoteHow will you be attaching the acrylic pieces together?
Any glue ?
This is (hopefully) my final marquee art. (If I messed something up, please let me know.)
(http://www.vancefry.com/rootimages/pixelbox/marquee5.jpg)
Now off to find a printer that does that backlit vinyl stuff...
This is (hopefully) my final marquee art. (If I messed something up, please let me know.)
(http://www.vancefry.com/rootimages/pixelbox/marquee5.jpg)
Now off to find a printer that does that backlit vinyl stuff...
Thanks for the feedback, Drew. How about with the shading taken out entirely? (A slight shadow has been added.)
(http://www.vancefry.com/rootimages/pixelbox/marquee6.jpg)
:-) As you can see, I'm nearly asking for a tutorial ;-)
Thanks for the feedback, Drew. How about with the shading taken out entirely? (A slight shadow has been added.)
(http://www.vancefry.com/rootimages/pixelbox/marquee6.jpg)
...Yeah, I probably could work with some local sign shops/laser cutters over here, but my Chinese is...
Maybe someday I'll actually con the wife into letting me brake loose and building my own machine. Some day.
I have a contact at the manufacturer (they are only 30 miles away) and they have also given me a sales contact at Micromark.net. I havent got round to chasing it up yet as Ive been busy with my cab and other controls (dead minipac) and a new job. I seem to recall coming across a p50 for about £50 from another UK distributor listed on cursor controls site.
I will make a post if I make any progress.
have just had a digg
http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search2/browse.jsp?N=500015+1004063&Ntk=gensearch_001&Ntt=trackerball&Ntx=
stainless looks pricey but they arent cursor contol models.
unsealed p38 for £48. with usb out doesnt sound too bad
And yeah, that's my "workshop." You can maybe understand now why I couldn't build an upright cab. (Someday we'll have a house, though. :))
I should have done more research!
yeah, there's the 24mm Seimitsu screw-ins, although the info at Himura Amusements says they only come in black.http://akihabarashop.com/products.html
Hmm.... now that Himura Amusements has gone belly-up, I wonder where people get Sanwa parts from these days...
BUMP.
Any new updates? This is an awesome bartop.
I think he's getting my emails, since he answered one a long time ago. Nothing since, though. And I know it's not his main job. That's fine, nothing personal. But I just can't deal with someone who ignores my emails so much.
Anyhow, I better work quickly. I gotta finish before that guy who stole my design. ;)
I'll just say that having one's arcade cabinet destroyed during overseas shipping can really put a long pause to a project. It arrived in pieces, literally, and sat in a box for such a long time because I couldn't stomach the thought of redoing so much work... :angry:
I'm sorry to hear it got damaged in shipping. Please finish it, this is one of the 1st bartops that I looked at. I love it too :cheers:
I would have brought the cabinet with me, I wouldn't trust any shipping company with something as precious as a personnal project that has hundreds of hours invested in it.
And you better finish your Pixelbox before I finish my MVS99-6. ;)
Yeah, I really wanted to, but with a wife, two daughters, a dog, and all our stuff, it wasn't really possible. Some stuff had to go on the boat.
What is this MVS99-6? My search came up empty.
Whoa... It's been 4 years since the last update... What happened?