Well the tinkering I expect, but there are a few issues creeping up with the china unit. Apparently the included software isn't supported by win 10. I'm sure you can download something else, but that means software tinkering as well. Also I'm unsure if it comes with sample filament, which isn't a huge deal, but then it isn't really cheaper. I'll have to research more. I'm waiting until Monday to see if there are any sales.
Howard - No. No new projects.Might want to step on that while they are still on sale.
Finish up your other projects first. My Everdrive purchase is on hiatus until you clean up that front end.
:cheers:
I'm using Amazon for most links since that's where I buy most but Ebay and Aliexpress (cheap but slow) are both fine sources.Wow, I have no interest in getting one of these, but I enjoyed this breakdown, Sammy!!!
My feeling is that most of the overheating issues people have are a combination of marginally sized connectors / wires and poor assembly. I have to bet that Howard will have no issues with electrical assembly ;) after that check things carefully during the first few prints for any overheating. Also, I don't like running the bed too hot with the stock setup. 50 - 60 C is plenty for PLA and PETG. ABS needs more like 100+ C which is pushing things for this unit and another reason to avoid ABS. Make sure the wires to the hotend are secured with a strain relief to the corner of the X carriage. Otherwise things can loosen up and fall out of the hotend causing a thermal runaway. This comes up weekly on the Facebook groups at least. Make sure the wires to both the hotend and hot bed are able to reach freely to all movement positions and don't get pinched or pulled too tight. Zipties are your friend.
My must do upgrades:
Power supply. The supplied unit is 20A with no fan. It's undersized and poor quality. Easiest to up it to a 30A with fan like these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MAC9MO6/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_5_w (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MAC9MO6/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_5_w)
Also possible to use a computer power supply. And some people run two power supplies, one for the hot bed and one for the rest.
Hotbed SS relay. I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
This lets you bypass the PCB for the hotbed power, the PCB hotbed output is then used as a signal to the relay. Really cuts down on the undersizing / overheating issues.
Hotbed electrical connection. The plug / wires are a little undersized and it gets warmer than I'd like but has not failed or discolored on me so far. Most straight forward fix is to up the power wire size and solder them directly to the board. Easiest to do during assembly but since I didn't do it then and I hate to disassemble a working unit, I'm still working in this.
Hot bed springs. The hot bed springs can scratch through the 'paint' insulation on the bed and short the bed. Easy fix just add some kind of insulating washer. I just cut up some plastic I had laying around.
Really recommended:
Hot bed surface. Getting the plastic to stick well for the whole print time but still pull off when done is the eternal problem for 3D printers. The right print surface is a big part of this.
The masking tape that comes on the bed will work for PLA but is kinda crap. PLA will print pretty well with blue painters tape and an unheated bed. 3M tape seems to be one of the best. Needs to be replaced every 10 prints or so (depends on how hard you are on it). Clean off any fingerprint residue, dust, etc with some rubbing alcohol before each print (true for most any surface). May help to roughen up the surface a bit.
My best recommendation here is to use PEI (Ultem). It's a type of plastic that has just the right amount of stick and release on a heated bed, at least for PLA and PETG. Leaves a very smooth surface on the bottom. No glue or other stuff to mess with. Most common PEI is a plastic sheet about 1/32" thick that you have to add adhesive to, often sold as a kit for 3d printers. I prefer precut PEI tape I get from here: http://catalog.cshyde.com/item/3d-printing-materials/ultem-pei/36-3a-3d-866x866 (http://catalog.cshyde.com/item/3d-printing-materials/ultem-pei/36-3a-3d-866x866). Lasts for a lot of prints as long as you don't tear it up getting prints up. I have yet to replace my first piece. I've used a lot of different surfaces and PEI bets them all, works great and easy to use. Just wipe with alcohol before each print.
Decent tool to remove prints. Lots of options but I like this one: https://www.amazon.com/ToyBuilder-Labs-Print-Removal-Tool/dp/B00VB1U886/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480556021&sr=8-2&keywords=3d+print+removal+tool (https://www.amazon.com/ToyBuilder-Labs-Print-Removal-Tool/dp/B00VB1U886/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480556021&sr=8-2&keywords=3d+print+removal+tool). It's cheap, thin and flexible enough to get under the part but not sharp so won't hurt the surface.
OK I better stop now.
3 rolls @19.99 + Free shipping = $59.97 - $9 code Maker15 = $50.97 or $16.99 per roll
2 rolls @19.99 + $12.44 shipping = $52.42 - $6 code Maker15 = $46.42 or $23.21 per roll
1 roll @19.99 + $11.39 shipping = $31.38 - $3 code Maker15 = $28.38 per roll
Looks like a hell of a deal to me. I ended up spending another $10 on a spool holder like that to go with my monoprice mini.
I also picked up a little needle nose pliers & sidecutter set at Walmart for 3 or 4 bucks. Also had a flexible scraper. I already had this stuff, but it's nice to have a set that stays with the machine.
IMO, buy the three spools. If you enjoy 3d printing at all, you will end up buying a lot more than that in the long run. Plus it's always nice to have a variety of colors to use. I have not used the Monoprice filament but it is a brand that I have heard others using and those prices are good at the 2 roll option and very good at 3 rolls. For one roll $28 is fairly expensive for basic PLA.
So 1.75mm pla is on the way. You know I think that might be the thing keeping these rigs from going mainstream. My local hardware store sells some rep-raps and such, but you can't buy filament. They need to keep filament in stock at the hardware/electronics/hobby stores.
So 1.75mm pla is on the way. You know I think that might be the thing keeping these rigs from going mainstream. My local hardware store sells some rep-raps and such, but you can't buy filament. They need to keep filament in stock at the hardware/electronics/hobby stores.
Would be nice if the Hardware stores carried it ( even nicer if they sold it by the meter/foot for a decent price so you could quickly pick up any color that you wanted for a project for a few bucks )
I would think printing out one of those filament guides and wrapping it in a baby wipe would clean it as you go.
Get the butter.
DO NOT USE CURA 2.1.X, IT DOESN'T WORK
Glad to hear that you got it running. You don't need to set any z offset in software. Leave it as is and adjust the nozzel to bed gap by adjusting the z switch height or the bed height. The cooling duct height is probably off because the hot end height can be installed at different heights and it may be a bit high. Be very careful if you adjust it - the threaded tube is not strong and many people break them. But they are cheap to replace. Most people print a different cooling duct but you may find that the models out there will also run too low unless you adjust the hot end or adjust the duct model. You can do plenty of printing with no cooling duct.
..... I just printed out z-axis bushings to fix a flaw in the design (z-screws were too short). ....
I suppose I'm going to have to download a 3d cad program and knock the rust off my old school skills.
Is there a way to stop the fan on a running print? (Other than unplugging it of course).
Is there a way to stop the fan on a running print? (Other than unplugging it of course).But I doubt its because the fan is cooling it to fast. I would recommend checking the hot end and heated bed's thermistor, it may be loose or out of place or bad. Its a good idea to pick up a cheap laser temp gauge and use that to confirm the hotends actual temps.
when I start printing stuff out for my car it would be nice to have a smooth surface, or at least a uniform one.
I wuv Gummi Bears!
Yeah it's a pretty good printer so long as you understand that you'll be fiddling with it. Like I kept getting thermal overruns recently... the solution was to zip-tie a set of wires down because the vibrations were wiggling the thermal sensor loose. I've printed most of the hardware for my world of Nintendo cab with it and it has held up well.
Here we go..... Note that I didn't prime this one I just dry brushed some paint over.
Someone print me up some display stands for my handhelds
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2071731 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2071731)
I has monies
I backed the CUBIBOT kickstarter, hope I don't regret it and may be joining you guys in this thread in a few months (plus the usual kickstarter delay ::))
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/99671519/cubibot-the-new-standard-of-modern-consumer-3d-pri?ref=nav_search (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/99671519/cubibot-the-new-standard-of-modern-consumer-3d-pri?ref=nav_search)
I backed the CUBIBOT kickstarter, hope I don't regret it and may be joining you guys in this thread in a few months (plus the usual kickstarter delay ::))
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/99671519/cubibot-the-new-standard-of-modern-consumer-3d-pri?ref=nav_search (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/99671519/cubibot-the-new-standard-of-modern-consumer-3d-pri?ref=nav_search)
I looked at that, but I wanted something a bit more robust. Let us know how it goes.
I agree but I Can always crazy glue eheh
Hey instead of putting money into kickstarter why just send it to me instead? You'll still get absolutely nothing in return, but at least I'll donate it to a charity or something.
I had to Google what that was. Knowing what it is, I’d strap it to my nuts and listen to some late 80s rap. The organisms would be epic.
Anyway......
Yots when your printer arrives I've got a list of stuff you need to print. Some of it can wait, but you need a new fan duct and a power switch housing asap. You might want to go ahead and buy/salvage a standard computer cord plug and a small on/off switch. (I pulled mine from a broken pc power supply). For some unknown reason the a8's don't have a guard over the ac voltage lines, nor is there a power switch. So you need to print a guard with a switch and plug on it to make everything nice and tidy. I think it's like a 20-30 minute print so It's a good thing to start with anyway.
So I don't know if I jinxed myself or what, but my power supply burnt out an hour ago. I think the mosfet inside it blew but the power supplies are so cheap it probably isn't worth it to buy parts. I can't complain too much as I've been running the poor thing for a year now. I was running it pretty hard.... I'm printing the Nintendo sign for my world of Nintendo cabinet and it's been printing for about 15-20 hours non-stop.
I'll have to get out my bench power supply tomorrow and make sure the boards didn't fry, but they should be ok as I did a visual inspection and the damage seems to be localized to the power supply itself.
The one it comes with is 20 amps and doesn't have a fan. They have one on amazon right now that is 30 amps with a fan included, which might provide a bit of insurance. I might get some external mosfets to go with it since I have to re-wire anyway. Honestly though they don't seem to be needed. The main board hasn't even gotten a little warm since I bought the thing.
So far I've been downloading stuff...
I'm trying to learn tinkercad but it's kind of a pain... :badmood: maybe I'll have better luck with Fusion 360
I just started with Tinkercad. Good stuff. Got Fusion installed.
Wow. Why so long?
Found a link I'm interested in.... tri-color a8's baby!
! No longer available (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WpmzboU2dKA#)
So I ordered a new 30 amp power supply and a mosfet for the hotbed. Ebay sellers are frikkin scalping these things. From china the mosfet is like 3 or 4 bucks.. but you'll have to wait 2 or 3 months for it to get here. The US sellers are selling the exact same thing...they don't even bother to use different pics, only the price is around 10 bucks.
For the record an ATX supply won't work unless it's an older model. I tried to use one just to finish up my print but even with a few rails twisted together it kept triggering the overload protection when the hotbed kicked in and the whole psu shut down. My benchtop faired better as it's made from a really old psu, but I know the wires aren't up to the task so I'll just have to be patient.
For the board? No I still have the stock ones in place. I think a lot of those melted connector concerns come from people not making sure the wires are properly connected because the main board, even with 20 amps running through it, it doesn't really get warm.
Then again I thought the power supply was ok as well.
You paid actual money for the basslet?
Anything can blow up if you dont follow instructions.
Like the 2 printers I have, most if not all 3d printers are equipped with sensors which will catch if the hotend or heated bed start to over heat. If the Heat sensor (thermistor) dies or goes bad the system will stop heating and shut everything down.
Most issues ive seen is shotty / cheap PSU's, or the end user crimped some wires wrong.
I would say these are as dangerous as EZ bake ovens, mess up and you get burned. But do it right and you'll get some good tasting muffins.
I installed OctoPrint (Web Cams) on mine simply because I hated hearing the thing all night. I moved both of them to my garage. I can now see and manage my printers from my PC and cell phone, anywhere anytime. I get alert text messages if anything goes wrong (which is very rare). And its nice to give purpose to all these RasberryPi's collecting dust.
Tell me more about this ... OctoPrint...
With respect... nope, ALL 3d printers are extremely dangerous to leave unattended. Anything with a heat source shouldn't be left on while you are gone because heat can lead to fire... that's just common sense. You don't leave the oven on while you are away do you? How about your soldering iron? Yeah it's that dumb to just walk away from something that is hot enough to melt plastic. Thermal runaway protection is not 100 percent reliable and if you are relying on it you are literally playing with fire as they only monitor the internal temps of the hotend and heatbed and now any fires on the bed itself from heating contaminated plastic or the psu.
That's supposed to be a good printer but keep in mind you are literally paying an extra 250 bucks just to print in three colors. You might want to buy one that is mono color that can be upgraded at a later date. I only say that because 3d printing isn't for everyone... it's quite tedious to make what you want and depending upon your time schedule you might discover that it isn't for you.
Any of you dorks played around with the wood fiber filaments? That perked my interest.
Any of you dorks played around with the wood fiber filaments? That perked my interest.
Any of you dorks played around with the wood fiber filaments? That perked my interest.
Are those colored items one piece or two?One i think
Are those colored items one piece or two?
Oh thats cool. I couldnt tell. Im new to 3d prints. Thats the first ones ive ever held.Are those colored items one piece or two?
Actually they are 2, I wanted the text to print out clear so I did a small strip printed facing up with the text on it, made painting easier also. Then just used some CA glue.
I've got to do a set once my printer is back up. I'm thinking of doing stands or hooks for some of the gamepads as well. N64 controllers and Xbox Dukes in particular are a giant pain to display because they take up so much room.I considerd doing a controller display but i have way too many consoles and not a lot of room
3D printed some teef for my pumpkin. Wife thinks it's creepy. Mission accomplished!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=363331;image)
Sure if you can sleep at night with all that blood on your hands. When the NRA even agrees that a gun product should be outlawed it's pretty bad.
I believe someone is selling a wax filament now.... that'd be great for casting jewelry and gears and stuff.
So now it's even easier to bootleg Warhammer figurines? Print it in wax, mold in silicon, and melt some pewter.
You guys are leaving so much money on the table.
Also there's the electric bill. Imagine your toaster on for 2 hours.......
$30 for a 1lb pewter ingot off amazon..............
What I can see happening is that 3d printers eventually become so turn key that manufacturers might send you an stl to print out when you break a knob off your dryer instead of sending a replacement part. I eventually see them installed as a vending machine in Lowes/Home Depot.... right next to the key machine. It's good to print out a rough shape for a casting project or something like that. I believe someone is selling a wax filament now.... that'd be great for casting jewelry and gears and stuff.
I watched that video. That was basically the worst example imaginable. Why didn't that guy make a second attempt that wasn't a shitshow?
You're supposed to suffer through the stock build first, then print upgrades as you go. Wimp. ;D
You're supposed to suffer through the stock build first, then print upgrades as you go. Wimp. ;D
I’m picking up a ton of printed upgrades tomorrow from Arcadenut.
You going to the repair party, homes?
I watched that video. That was basically the worst example imaginable. Why didn't that guy make a second attempt that wasn't a shitshow?
You aren't kidding. Looks like they spent a lot of time and money to make a piece of scrap.
Based on some reviews, a better material for lost wax is found here (http://machinablewax.com/product.php?product=52). Lower melt-out temp, and supposedly leaves the mold much cleaner in the end. The Moldlay material has been reported by some to leave a lot of charred residue in the mold. Your mileage may vary.
...molten aluminum i'm going to have after I melt down some lawnmower engines in the diy smelter i now want to build. :)
(https://i.imgflip.com/1yu3ic.jpg)
Move the bed via either the on-board menu or within cura to a corner with the tape or whatever you use already on the bed. Stick a piece of typing paper under the nozzle.. you should feel a bit of tension as you move it in and out, but the paper should go under... use the included screw driver to adjust. Now repeat for the other three corners of the bed.Thanks, Howard!!
I’m sorry, I’m still trying to figure out a way to integrate a fish tank.:laugh2: I love this site
On both of my printers I cleared the auto level Gcode. I just manually level like Howard mentioned. Once you do it a few times, it will only take a minute or two.
Im excited to see that test cube when you're set.
The default firmware is crap. Go ahead and switch to Skynet/Marlin
Print this and send it to me, kthx...
https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/miniatures/figurines/pirate-figurine (https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/miniatures/figurines/pirate-figurine)
What infill % is that? Looks very dense.
ProTip request - do you print out one thing at a time, or do you print out a bunch a little things all at once?
Wow that's ugly.
You said you didn't touch cura's settings at all. I'm assuming you created a machine profile for the anet right?I did a machine profile at the start.
It looks like your nozzle size is wrong so I would say there are issues in your profile. I can send you one to make sure.
Oh, and the filament was set on the wrong size.
ProTip request - do you print out one thing at a time, or do you print out a bunch a little things all at once?
Do yourself a favor and buy a PEI sheet now. This is the one I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XK8BWY (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XK8BWY)
No more messing with tape. When the print cools it pops right off. It also gives your print a smooth as glass bottom.
Sheet starts becoming less "sticky"? All you have to do is wipe it down with rubbing alcohol.
I hold mine to the hot bed with tiny binder clips, works great.
I hold mine to the hot bed with tiny binder clips, works great.
I hold mine to the hot bed with tiny binder clips, works great.
I get the self adhesive kind and spend a half hour scraping the bed with a razorblade and goo gone before applying a new one. ???
Wow, I have no interest in getting one of these, but I enjoyed this breakdown, Sammy!!!
So what will you be printing with it?
Actually, just odds and ends to make stuff easier in this hobby.
Yo :afro:So what will you be printing with it?
Weed cards
Wow, I have no interest in getting one of these, but I enjoyed this breakdown, Sammy!!!
I have to thank you, Howard, and SammyWI for really being detailed and piquing my interest. In the end, it was Vigo who pushed me over the edge. More later.
3 hours to go!!!
Wow, I have no interest in getting one of these, but I enjoyed this breakdown, Sammy!!!
I have to thank you, Howard, and SammyWI for really being detailed and piquing my interest. In the end, it was Vigo who pushed me over the edge. More later.
3 hours to go!!!
We all knew you were going to get one. You have a very creative mind and this fits right in there.
Great deal on it right now:
https://m.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_343643.html?wid=44
Great deal on it right now:
https://m.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_343643.html?wid=44 (https://m.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_343643.html?wid=44)
why does it ask for passport info at checkout?
Based on the bracket you printed Id say you may be over extruding (blobs everywhere, holes are smaller then expected)
To fix the over extruding I think in Cura you would change the FLOW settings. By default its at 100, maybe bump it down a little.
A good way to test is print a 10x10x5 test cube. Then measure it with a caliper, if it comes out larger lower the flow rate. Bump it down to like 96 and print, measure again.
The stringing can be caused by the temp being to high or the retraction settings need to be adjusted.
Lines on the top layer (Dragging) is usually an indication that the nozzle is too low, try raising just a tad.
Here a good Troubleshooting Guide (https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/) that I always turn to if I need help.
And last SPEED. You will eventually find your printers sweet spot, both of mine are usually 50-60 mm/s. For smaller prints I will go lower
My nozzle is 0.4, I think.
My nozzle is 0.4, I think.
Mine too. I set my wall thickness to 0.8 for most things, 1.2 for things that will be a thin shell...
On both my printers I usually print PLA at 195-205
If you tell it to print with supports, it just makes these really flimsy posts underneath the overhangs. They really help and then when done, they just snap off.
What you'll find going forward is the key to doing good prints is learning how to best use supports and orient the parts. Anything with excessive overhangs will have a "bad side" even with supports (although it'll look significantly better with supports, I use the "touching buildplate" option.). You just want to orient parts so that unimportant, smaller sides get the overhang and sometimes add a sacrificial layer to the print that you know will get ruined and cut it off.So if you were printing this, would you use supports?
I haven't had it loosen yet, so if you have it secure it should stay.
Right now I'm investigating the one flaw in the printer's design.... changing the filament. It's a huge pain. I've seen a few on thingiverse that allow the fan assembly to open like a door... I'm thinking a simple cone to attach to the throat of the top of the hot end assembly might work better.
Dunno if it would work on yours, but my monoprice mini has these for belt tension. Literally looks like the spring from a clothespin.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171112/2670bb67418f52fa54bfc5ef82211682.jpg)
I haven't had it loosen yet, so if you have it secure it should stay.
Right now I'm investigating the one flaw in the printer's design.... changing the filament. It's a huge pain. I've seen a few on thingiverse that allow the fan assembly to open like a door... I'm thinking a simple cone to attach to the throat of the top of the hot end assembly might work better.
I haven't had it loosen yet, so if you have it secure it should stay.
Right now I'm investigating the one flaw in the printer's design.... changing the filament. It's a huge pain. I've seen a few on thingiverse that allow the fan assembly to open like a door... I'm thinking a simple cone to attach to the throat of the top of the hot end assembly might work better.
I guess I should check back on this thread more often. Glad to hear that folks here are enjoying 3D printing. I haven't been doing as much as I'd like to but that should change with winter coming. I do remember the A8 filament loading problems. I was able to get good at doing it with practice and a few tricks. 1. cut the filament end at a sharp angle to get a nice point to work with. 2. straighten out the filament from it's natural curve from being on the spool so it will actually go where you are aiming it. 3. practice a few times with the fan off so you have an idea where that hole is that you are aiming for. I was able to get good enough to reliably hit that hole on the first or second try. Even so, some people never get the hang of it. I did end up switching to an E3D hotend and Bowden setup - mainly to use higher temp materials but a side affect is no more loading issues.
I have an odd question. After printing does everyone find themselves just accepting the final product of the printer or do you spend time on your creations honing what you created? ie sanding, etc...
TIL that I need a bulbasaur planter in my life.My thoughts exactly
TIL that I need a bulbasaur planter in my life.
Happens to the best of us. :cheers:
Happens to the best of us. :cheers:
I have to blame you for this madness, my brother!
Happens to the best of us. :cheers:
I have to blame you for this madness, my brother!
Sorry, not sorry! :cheers: The awesome thing is you have opened a TON of new doors in your building capacity. There ain't gonna be a thing on the planet that Yot can't build.
Did you figure out a better way to print the cooling shroud?
Been making badge holders for my wifes co-workers, 10 bucks a pop. Not sure if I am profiting anything, but ive had fun designing and printing them. (Superman logo was painted)
When I swamped out the filament it re-homed X and Y then went back to printing so moving the head wasn't an issue. Usually the motors will still be locked so I dont think it would move to much. But you guys did mention that your printers are a pain to change filament.
(https://i.imgur.com/hcYP7Uw.jpg)
I want to make badge holders for this year’s ZapCon crew as part of their swag.
That's a good idea though. I should print up some swag for visitors to the booth... hmm...
I want to make badge holders for this year’s ZapCon crew as part of their swag.
(https://media1.tenor.com/images/0baccdca99f2365f57820d91b8b08eec/tenor.gif?itemid=4931129)
That's a good idea though. I should print up some swag for visitors to the booth... hmm...
I'm going to print you some Custer's Revenge figures. You're welcome.
Care to share the STL? I want to make badge holders for this year’s ZapCon crew as part of their swag.
That is one of the problems with 3D printers. They are great for many jobs, but they are super slow, at least the affordable ones are. A CO2 laser could produce that part in a few minutes. It would also be smooth and look like a finished production part. On the other hand, If you can only have one fabrication tool the 3D printer might be the most versatile.
Yots, you were producing usable stuff right out of the gate. It seems that the affordable 3D printers have graduated from the "print useless trinkets" phase.
I am going to have to pick up a 3D printer one of these days. There are many times I need a part that my laser is not ideally suited to.
Kudos to the work so far, and to the help you have received from the community.
So I printed a case for the LCD on the A8. It was actually my second print of it since my belts were loose and the first version was out of whack. The second version was perfect, but the back acrylic piece was too big! Apparently Anet makes design changes willy nilly and ships whatever.
Undaunted, I imported the case file into Tinkercad and used it to design a brand new back piece that snaps into place (so its multilayered). I also incorporated a space for a 40mm fan if I decide to add it. Took me about 20 minutes total to knock out the design.
Buy a set of digital calipers if you don't already have them. They make designing useful parts in tinkercad much quicker.
Buy a set of digital calipers if you don't already have them. They make designing useful parts in tinkercad much quicker.
This has easily become the one tool I use 10x more after 3d printing. I've also grown much more comfortable with MM measurements.
That is one of the problems with 3D printers. They are great for many jobs, but they are super slow, at least the affordable ones are. A CO2 laser could produce that part in a few minutes. It would also be smooth and look like a finished production part. On the other hand, If you can only have one fabrication tool the 3D printer might be the most versatile.
Yots, you were producing usable stuff right out of the gate. It seems that the affordable 3D printers have graduated from the "print useless trinkets" phase.
I am going to have to pick up a 3D printer one of these days. There are many times I need a part that my laser is not ideally suited to.
Kudos to the work so far, and to the help you have received from the community.
Is there someone at home with a fire extinguisher handy? Those things have been known to burst into flames every once in awhile.
I am not being critical of your equipment or workmanship Yots. Production machines really shouldn't be left unattended. Just lookin' out for my bro.
So i'm looking at what yotts got or the tarantula model for next yr after i get my tax return (kids are getting Switch so no toys for me)
What about these Delta printers?
From what i read they are faster but may not print as smoothly?
I am not being critical of your equipment or workmanship Yots. Production machines really shouldn't be left unattended. Just lookin' out for my bro.
Holy crap, that surface is smoother than PBJ’s nutsack after he Manscapes
So I've been wanting to get into this part of the hobby for a long time, but in my purely subjective opinion, everything these print looks like hot garbage.
You guys are doing fantastic work and I love the innovation, but the quality just looks so cheap and not ready for prime-time.
Anyone tried acetone dipping or anything to clean up the lines and give a nice smooth doesn't look like complete ass surface?
Le cheuckles likes his 3D printed butt plugs to be smooth as pbj's nutsack after manscaping
So I've been wanting to get into this part of the hobby for a long time, but in my purely subjective opinion, everything these print looks like hot garbage.
You guys are doing fantastic work and I love the innovation, but the quality just looks so cheap and not ready for prime-time.
Anyone tried acetone dipping or anything to clean up the lines and give a nice smooth doesn't look like complete ass surface?
So I've been wanting to get into this part of the hobby for a long time, but in my purely subjective opinion, everything these print looks like hot garbage.
You guys are doing fantastic work and I love the innovation, but the quality just looks so cheap and not ready for prime-time.
Anyone tried acetone dipping or anything to clean up the lines and give a nice smooth doesn't look like complete ass surface?
I have an odd question. After printing does everyone find themselves just accepting the final product of the printer or do you spend time on your creations honing what you created? ie sanding, etc...Good thing I asked this question two pages ago...
So I've been wanting to get into this part of the hobby for a long time, but in my purely subjective opinion, everything these print looks like hot garbage.
You guys are doing fantastic work and I love the innovation, but the quality just looks so cheap and not ready for prime-time.
Anyone tried acetone dipping or anything to clean up the lines and give a nice smooth doesn't look like complete ass surface?
By settings a smaller layer height you can rid of most lines you see. But you are tacking on hours more to the build time. If your printer can handle 50-100 micron layer height (.05mm - .10mm) then you will see some really nice and smooth surfaces.
Yes you can vapor smooth most filaments, or you can sand a little and hit it with some primer. Most functioning parts ive made I haven't had any reason to paint though.
You shouldn't look at getting a 3d printer to make post production quality parts. Look at it more of a way to fill that creative void that us do it yourself hobbyist have. And at the price that these guys are paying! Now is the PRIME-time to get one :)
So I've been wanting to get into this part of the hobby for a long time, but in my purely subjective opinion, everything these print looks like hot garbage.
You guys are doing fantastic work and I love the innovation, but the quality just looks so cheap and not ready for prime-time.
Anyone tried acetone dipping or anything to clean up the lines and give a nice smooth doesn't look like complete ass surface?I have an odd question. After printing does everyone find themselves just accepting the final product of the printer or do you spend time on your creations honing what you created? ie sanding, etc...Good thing I asked this question two pages ago...
And the rest of my filament I keep in a dry box with a dehumidifier.
And the rest of my filament I keep in a dry box with a dehumidifier.
What does a desert dweller such as your self need to dehumidify your filament? Just curious, I never had felt a need to do that in my climate.
And the rest of my filament I keep in a dry box with a dehumidifier.
What does a desert dweller such as your self need to dehumidify your filament? Just curious, I never had felt a need to do that in my climate.
You should see where he puts his cigars...
And the rest of my filament I keep in a dry box with a dehumidifier.
What does a desert dweller such as your self need to dehumidify your filament? Just curious, I never had felt a need to do that in my climate.
So I've been wanting to get into this part of the hobby for a long time, but in my purely subjective opinion, everything these print looks like hot garbage.
You guys are doing fantastic work and I love the innovation, but the quality just looks so cheap and not ready for prime-time.
Anyone tried acetone dipping or anything to clean up the lines and give a nice smooth doesn't look like complete ass surface?
If you make cookies like you make scale Star Wars droids then yes. I would love one of your cookies.So I've been wanting to get into this part of the hobby for a long time, but in my purely subjective opinion, everything these print looks like hot garbage.
You guys are doing fantastic work and I love the innovation, but the quality just looks so cheap and not ready for prime-time.
Anyone tried acetone dipping or anything to clean up the lines and give a nice smooth doesn't look like complete ass surface?I have an odd question. After printing does everyone find themselves just accepting the final product of the printer or do you spend time on your creations honing what you created? ie sanding, etc...Good thing I asked this question two pages ago...
Whatchya want a ---smurfing--- cookie?
So I've been wanting to get into this part of the hobby for a long time, but in my purely subjective opinion, everything these print looks like hot garbage.
You guys are doing fantastic work and I love the innovation, but the quality just looks so cheap and not ready for prime-time.
Anyone tried acetone dipping or anything to clean up the lines and give a nice smooth doesn't look like complete ass surface?
Dude, it is all about real, out-of-the-home engineering. It opens a whole new world, and a real builder like you will dig it.
Now imagine having that ability for every aspect of something you are building, where you need a very specific bracket, clip, spacer, stand, enclosure, fitting, wedge, etc.... You can suddenly throw this together in no time and the bigger creation you are building looks much more professional because of it.
Double. Post. :-PSend me the pirate .stl file!
Print this and send it to me, kthx...
https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/miniatures/figurines/pirate-figurine (https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/miniatures/figurines/pirate-figurine)
Whatchya want a ---smurfing--- cookie?If you make cookies like you make scale Star Wars droids then yes. I would love one of your cookies.
Whatchya want a ---smurfing--- cookie?If you make cookies like you make scale Star Wars droids then yes. I would love one of your cookies.
My cookies are not fully functional as cookies, merely striking replicas that serve a purpose other than what you would normally intuit a cookie to do. So yes. Yes I do. ::)
Guys, you make really good points. Great example Vigo. I might have to jump in on this at some point. I'm thinking about opening a juggling/arcade making business.
Whatchya want a ---smurfing--- cookie?If you make cookies like you make scale Star Wars droids then yes. I would love one of your cookies.
My cookies are not fully functional as cookies, merely striking replicas that serve a purpose other than what you would normally intuit a cookie to do. So yes. Yes I do. ::)
Guys, you make really good points. Great example Vigo. I might have to jump in on this at some point. I'm thinking about opening a juggling/arcade making business.
Figure out a way to add fish tanks in the mix, and the US Mint will just open a location in your house to save everybody time.
I'm 90% ABS, so that makes sense if I haven't noticed it so much...
I'm 90% ABS, so that makes sense if I haven't noticed it so much...
Are you printing in the house? Is the smell an issue?
I bought a roll of ABS when I bought the printer, but haven't tried it yet.
(similar to my tinkercad experience...the easy thing gets the job done so I never move on to other options)
Okay, somebody please put together the no ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- this is what I need shopping list so I can get started on this boondoggle. I want the cheap kit but with all the extra components and upgrades that everyone eventually realized they needed.
Please please pretty please and thank you.
Okay, somebody please put together the no ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- this is what I need shopping list so I can get started on this boondoggle. I want the cheap kit but with all the extra components and upgrades that everyone eventually realized they needed.
Please please pretty please and thank you.
So is this going to be the official "Look at what I printed / STL sharing" thread?
I feel its better to know why you are upgrading parts before you buy them. Its the experience bro.
I feel its better to know why you are upgrading parts before you buy them. Its the experience bro.
Dude, by that logic I should've angled my joysticks just to experience the suck. I thought the whole point was shared learning to stand on the shoulders of others, not to have a club where I have to make ---smurfy--- stuff until I earn the chops to make good stuff.
I feel its better to know why you are upgrading parts before you buy them. Its the experience bro.
Dude, by that logic I should've angled my joysticks just to experience the suck. I thought the whole point was shared learning to stand on the shoulders of others, not to have a club where I have to make ---smurfy--- stuff until I earn the chops to make good stuff.
I like this thread. Is there a place to post 3D printer files or laser and CNC cut files in this forum? That might be a good sticky. A repository for files to fabricate your own replacement parts.
I did a couple of things for people with my laser. I would like to post those. I am going to laser cut a new dust washer for my defender cab to eliminate the slop in the joystick.
I like this thread. Is there a place to post 3D printer files or laser and CNC cut files in this forum? That might be a good sticky. A repository for files to fabricate your own replacement parts.
I did a couple of things for people with my laser. I would like to post those. I am going to laser cut a new dust washer for my defender cab to eliminate the slop in the joystick.
Suck it up, NancyThis ain't a bukake flick. I'll leave it in the jar thank you.
This ain't a bukake flick. I'll leave it in the jar thank you.
This ain't a bukake flick. I'll leave it in the jar thank you.
I knew you stored something weird in your R2D2 replica.
Ill eat the cookies. Hard pass on la leche.This ain't a bukake flick. I'll leave it in the jar thank you.
I knew you stored something weird in your R2D2 replica.
You should try the cookies
Ive spent the last week researching and toying with the idea of getting a 3D printer.
Ive decided ime going to take the plunge in the new year and buy one to play with!
Think ime going to get a Creality CR10 mini.
They seem pretty good for the money.
Ive spent the last week researching and toying with the idea of getting a 3D printer.
Ive decided ime going to take the plunge in the new year and buy one to play with!
Think ime going to get a Creality CR10 mini.
They seem pretty good for the money.
Just bought the CR-10 (normal) for 330$ will let you know how it is.
Based on most of the reviews I dont think I will be disappointed.
Based on most of the reviews I dont think I will be disappointed.
Nope!
I have read nothing but good about it and its what the groot I posted before was printed on.
I just placed my order on the one from GearBest. Here's hoping shipping doesn't take too long!
Once i got the funds it will be mine lol
Did it say if it was from the LA or China warehouse?
Once i got the funds it will be mine lol
Did it say if it was from the LA or China warehouse?
What was?
Looks like LA warehouse. So maybe next week!
Thinking about getting the cr-10s
Thinking about getting the cr-10s
Ya know you want to :p
My MOSFETs arrived yesterday, my filament is scheduled for tomorrow and my printer arrives on Wednesday! I'm feeling like a kid on Christmas!
Mind you... this IS my Christmas present this year.
Yep, I pretty much used your list of links in a previous post. Same FETs, same filament, etc.
Whats octoprint then?
What is everyone using on their beds?
What are the print bed dimensions on the Mini?
Meh, you went cheap. You'll regret it.
Well I will prob spend more on it in the long term as is the way.
But as I stated above its a better build quality and smaller footprint to fit on my table so ime willing to sacrifice the 80mm for that.
The standard cr10 has glowing reviews so I have high expectations :)
Yeah I was going to post something in the Buy/Sell/Trade sections but was going to see what pops up later, maybe a fabrication section or something.It would be nice but instead of just one vendor doing you guys with machines can volunteer to take on a specific task and not have to deal with a million requests.
Made my first test print last night, a 20mm calibration cube. Came out way better than I was expecting. Almost perfect on dimensions. It was about 19.95 x 20.1 x 20.05. I need to level the bed better though and I need to up the flow rate a touch, I got some under extrusion.
when you hear that extruder clicking you know you have the bed too high...Yep.
Make sure you guys do a legit extruder calibrate before messing with the flow rate. Its simple just measure and mark 100 mm of filament from the top of your extruder and have the system feed 100 mm. See if the line levels out or if it come up short or feeds to much.There's a slightly different extruder calibration procedure here (http://zennmaster.com/makingstuff/reprap-101-calibrating-your-extruder-part-1-e-steps) that works for over-feed and under-feed.
I leveled it with a bare bed, then put down painter's tape, so I think that screwed it up. It seems like the nozzle was actually slightly dragging on the first layer. Pics are the bottom layer and then the top layer.
Slippy, if your using Cura, make sure the filament size is correctly set to 1.75. The default is larger.
Nut shaving harness?
Nut shaving harness?
Nut shaving harness?
I thought we were too good for this mayhem in this thread...
I have big ballz but I dont think ide need a Gillette quite that big!!
I have big ballz but I dont think ide need a Gillette quite that big!!
I see your confusion.... below is the nut shaver
(https://ewedit.files.wordpress.com/2015/01/chimp-phenomena.jpg?w=610)
I have big ballz but I dont think ide need a Gillette quite that big!!
I see your confusion.... below is the nut shaver
(https://ewedit.files.wordpress.com/2015/01/chimp-phenomena.jpg?w=610)
Is that kind of like a trunk monkey auto theft system? Except for your nuts?
Top layer looks on point prowski nice job.
So I've been selling those badges, made a google sheet so my wife and I can track how much we've actually made. At 70 bucks right now.
Top layer looks on point prowski nice job.
So I've been selling those badges, made a google sheet so my wife and I can track how much we've actually made. At 70 bucks right now.
What's your google sheet for expenses at?
Ball shaving jig
Not as interested in making money as much as I am having the machine pay for itself.
I have big ballz but I dont think ide need a Gillette quite that big!!
I see your confusion.... below is the nut shaver
(https://ewedit.files.wordpress.com/2015/01/chimp-phenomena.jpg?w=610)
Is that kind of like a trunk monkey auto theft system? Except for your nuts?
LOL
Cool lol
Well I tried to get mine to its 1st print yesterday but found the glass is warped and I have a huge dip in the middle!
Wish I discovered that before sticking the PEI on :(
So I am going to try some tin foil under the glass later to see if that helps but I suspect I may need a new piece of glass! :(
Cool lol
Well I tried to get mine to its 1st print yesterday but found the glass is warped and I have a huge dip in the middle!
Wish I discovered that before sticking the PEI on :(
So I am going to try some tin foil under the glass later to see if that helps but I suspect I may need a new piece of glass! :(
Must be a Creality thing. Good idea on the tin foil though, i just ended up putting some tape in the middle. I should be getting my casting plate this week.
Pull the filament out, start the print and pause it mid first layer. Slide a piece of paper between the bed and nozzle and check to see if its touching the tip or not, you should have a slight drag, if not the tip is to high. If its tight then the filament may be scrapping itself. Also, although I print around 40-60 My first layer is usually 30-40% of that. If using Cura there should be a first layer settings.
If your using the small roll of filament that came with the printer try 210C for the temp instead.
Using a bowden extruder I learned that the retract settings a way different from direct drives. Normally I would set my retract to .5 - 2 max. The bowden seems to work best at 5-6mm. I think I finally found a sweet spot on the CR-10, was able to print 4 badges at the same time, all came out level.
One last thing, Im not sure if Cura lets you move the model ,maybe try moving it to a corner or mid front to see if it prints better there. I have a dead zone I try to stay away from on my other printer.
Hmmmm.... I’m not seeing those issues myself. PEI has been awesome.
Hmmmm.... I’m not seeing those issues myself. PEI has been awesome.
What settings are you printing your PLA at yots?
I've never had any issues with the PEI, just clean with rubbing alcohol and go.
Have you tried printing your part with a brim?
Ime thinking part of the problem may be my PLA glooping out and sticking to the nozzle?
As its warming up it comes out, curls over and then sticks to the side before it even begins?
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171205/e25f26f0cbb1c5043f378611f1dd3f13.jpg)
Right, just have G28
My stock firmware has pause & resume... :dunno
That gold one is just so sexy. You gonna print some labels to go on those? Make em look faux real?yeap, Im just torn on repro-ing the real lable, or making Parody labels. Gonna get them professionalyl printed too, no lame sticker paper.
can you upgrade it to an aluminum bed or some nice borosilicate tempered glass?
You should complain, Titch. That’s too new to have a bad bed already. If it shipped like that, they should at least make it right. Get on your lappy and fire off an email ASAP.
I'm still trying to figure out how it took this guy 12 hours to assemble.... maybe he's disabled or something but I got mine together in about an hour and a half.
Just peeling the protective film off of the many, many laser-cut acrylic frame parts took me two and a half hours one evening
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171209/9ac3b135675cec45db3d43f1def6be47.jpg)
Could someone send me whatever nerd files print those nerdy Star Wars snowflakes? I got glib at a party.
Thanks, bro.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171218/cbfae5038308ddf04d49a5c6f4e1bed4.jpg)
I printed that thing too:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=364209;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=364211;image)
Take that fitbit out of its box you lazy ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---.It would take too many steps to get to it.
Take that fitbit out of its box you lazy ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---.
Hey Titch,
What were your settings on that? Layer height, print speed, etc?
You think you know, but how do you know for sure? I mean you probably aren't counting, so you'd need some convenient little device to count for you...you know, like the watch. ;)
Is it like some sort of right of passage everybody has to print that Terminator skull?
Is it like some sort of right of passage everybody has to print that Terminator skull?
I don't print knick knacks and trinkets.
Next project when I get around to it is table saw blade mounts that can be screwed to the floor joists in my basement.
Is it like some sort of right of passage everybody has to print that Terminator skull?
Is it like some sort of right of passage everybody has to print that Terminator skull?I mean why wouldnt you. Somebody do a jason vorhees head though.
Is it like some sort of right of passage everybody has to print that Terminator skull?I mean why wouldnt you. Somebody do a jason vorhees head though.
Is it like some sort of right of passage everybody has to print that Terminator skull?I mean why wouldnt you. Somebody do a jason vorhees head though.
Because I’m not a 14 year old with a pube moustache smoking a bummed cig during lunch break listening to Judas Priest on my Walkman. :)
Its a slayer shirt bro. And i buy my own cigarettes thank you.Is it like some sort of right of passage everybody has to print that Terminator skull?I mean why wouldnt you. Somebody do a jason vorhees head though.
Because I’m not a 14 year old with a pube moustache smoking a bummed cig during lunch break listening to Judas Priest on my Walkman. :)
Because I’m not a 14 year old with a pube moustache smoking a bummed cig during lunch break listening to Judas Priest on my Walkman. :)
Because I’m not a 14 year old with a pube moustache smoking a bummed cig during lunch break listening to Judas Priest on my Walkman. :)
(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/a/a9/Molly_Hatchet_-_Molly_Hatchet.jpg/220px-Molly_Hatchet_-_Molly_Hatchet.jpg)
Come on, those of you guys went to high school in the 80s know exactly who I’m talking about.
Theye usually either wrote Ozzy on their jean jacket or their knuckles, too.
So, who wants to be famous and print me up 10 of these?
So. I have an STL for that... I haven't printed it yet because my printer is currently down...
Lemme see if the creator of the file cares if I share it.
So. I have an STL for that...
So. I have an STL for that...
Well isn't that convenient!
So. I have an STL for that...
Well isn't that convenient!
Yup. I was supposed to print it for someone, but my printer is currently borked. :badmood:
...post....the....file.....
...post....the....file.....
Your link is live! Now I just need one of you big, strong men to print me some...
print me some...First test print started.
The inner holes are smaller. A number #6 machine screw was ever so slightly too large. (One of my attempted kludge repairs)Machine screws and sheet metal screws have the same thread outer diameter for corresponding sizes, but the tpi (threads per inch) are different.
Original part was a sheet metal screw. Maybe their thread is a little smaller?
I can believe 6 and 8 are the right sizes.... will try to confirm tomorrow.
The black screw is the one that holds the horseshoe PCBs to the inner posts on the plastic part. It's too small for a 7/64" hole and too large for a 3/32" hole.Since it's between 0.093" and 0.109", it is probably a #3 x 5/16". (0.099" diameter threads)
The larger bolt screws perfectly into a 1/8" hole, and slides through the larger holes on the end of the plastic part. Note that it just passes through that hole, it doesn't actually screw into it.From your pictures, it appears that the machine screw is #5-40 x 5/8". (0.125" diameter threads)
Alright, since I don’t know how to read this thing... I present photos.
damn, old school calipers
Yup it will be painted by the Ms.
She has a back log of painting atm, Ime printing stuff faster than she can paint it LOL
Shes doing my Terminator bust atm :p
Yup it will be painted by the Ms.
She has a back log of painting atm, Ime printing stuff faster than she can paint it LOL
Shes doing my Terminator bust atm :p
Which Printer did you get again?
My tax return will be in any week.....
Widget, depends on how hackerish you wanna get. The Anet-A8 is a kit. That requires a lot of assembly/calibration/babysitting, but is very inexpensive. A lot of us have that one. Then there's the Creality CR-10. More expensive, but it's a lot more turn-key. Comes assembled and ready to print I believe.
I present photos.Not-so-good news: No luck getting readings from the photos to match up with thread-size charts. :banghead:
I printed that thing too:That looks awesome!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=364209;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=364211;image)
Cookie press?
Just thought I would post this here.
https://hackaday.com/2018/03/18/3d-printer-halts-and-catches-fire-analysis-finds-a-surprising-culprit/ (https://hackaday.com/2018/03/18/3d-printer-halts-and-catches-fire-analysis-finds-a-surprising-culprit/)
As 3D printers get cheaper and are more commonplace, people have a tendency to let their guard down. 3D printers need to be inspected regularly, and leaving them unattended while they work a job poses a certain level of risk.
I am not denigrating cheap 3D printers. They seem really useful. They just need to be treated with a higher level of caution than many other tools. Especially the really cheap ones.
When I run my lasers for work, I stay in the room with them. I moved a computer into that room and routed a network connection so I can work and man the fire extinguisher if necessary. :cheers:
Cash in hand for a dickbutt cookie cutter. Not even joking.
Cash in hand for a dickbutt cookie cutter. Not even joking.
Cash in hand for a dickbutt cookie cutter. Not even joking.
Use that cash to get to Zapcon, and you get one for free... :P
Yeah I'd appreciate some more info.... finish looks top-notch. Also do you have a link to that extruder? I don't know if it's the humidity or what, but my filament has broke off while not in use 5 times this month.... I'm getting sick of taking the dang thing apart.
Yeah the PSP dock looks great, looks like its possibly sanded and painted. If not then hot Dayumm. I also put Dampners on my CR10, need to get the metal extruder set though.
What design software are you using?
Besides all the badge holders I have been making, I made a Bi-Pod adapter for my Ruger 10/22 rifle.
Keep up the good work man
Did you acetone smooth that PSP dock? That looks great.
Drill guide for joysticks... Happ standard and Sanwa JLF
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=366653;image)
Leaf switch holders:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=366655;image)
Drill guide for joysticks... Happ standard and Sanwa JLF
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=366653;image)
Leaf switch holders:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=366655;image)
Nice idea! You actually beat me to it on the joystick guide. One suggestion..... the peg in the center... you might want to put a hole just big enough for a pencil/pen to fit. That way if you are also drilling the hole for the joystick you'll have a mark for the pilot bit on your hole saw.
??? To drill the hole for the joystick when making a panel from scratch. I thought that was pretty obvious.
??? To drill the hole for the joystick when making a panel from scratch. I thought that was pretty obvious.
CNC... duh.
??? To drill the hole for the joystick when making a panel from scratch. I thought that was pretty obvious.
CNC... duh.
I don't CNC everything all the time...
??? To drill the hole for the joystick when making a panel from scratch. I thought that was pretty obvious.
CNC... duh.
I don't CNC everything all the time...
I would if I had access to a CNC
Drill guide for joysticks... Happ standard and Sanwa JLFIf/when you update this drill guide with a center hole as suggested above, you may also want to add a triangular notch on the center of each side.
Just remembered btw Howard,
I noticed my filament breaks if I have not used the printer for a week or 2, usually just infront of the extruder gear.
I guess the gear puts pressure on it over time and it breaks.
What I do to fix it is pull the Bowden tube out of the coupling that comes out of the extruder, pull the remnants of the fillament through them heat up the hot end to 200 and give it a sharp tug back down the bowden tube.
Then just feed new back in as normal.
Yeah I need to invest in better bearings. I've been looking into tool changes actually.... there have been a few a8 mods that allow for plotting, vinyl cutting and small scale cnc. (Think pcb mill.) I've just yet to see a carriage that looked sturdy enough for precision printing. I think it is doable though.... I actually made a simple plotter attachment and it worked fine.
I'm sticking with direct drive since I plan on using flexible filaments soon. Those don't work with a bowden setup. If you are gonna stay with PLA, ABS, PetG, etc... I've heard bowden is great.
So did you screw right into the holes or did you have to tap them first? I'm only asking because I've had mixed success in regards to screwing into pla without it splitting.... seems to depend upon the model greatly.No need to drill/tap this model because the screw hole sizes are exactly the right size . . . at least for my printer and slicer settings. ;)
Here's a weird one. :dizzy:
PBJ asked me to print this (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:87920) Bally drop target from thingiverse.
I loaded the STL into Cura and turned it on it's side to reduce the odds of layer separation breaking the spring loop. (supports and raft enabled)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=367784;image)
When I tried to print it . . . fail. :banghead:
(I stopped it at around 75% and removed the raft and supports)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=367780;image)
The loop part of the model was "negated" (solid center, no loop :dizzy:) and a slot ran down the middle and cut into the semi-circle under the target.
Re-loaded the model into Cura and normal view looks OK, but layer view shows the "negated" loop and slot down the middle in place of the center ridge.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=367782;image)
Can anyone duplicate this?
Is this a problem with the model or is it caused by the old version (IIIP-i3?) of Cura that came with my Monoprice Maker Select V2 printer? (Wanhao Duplicator i3 clone)
Scott
Try this one, I just traced everything from the original in fusion360. It fixed all the weird issues I saw but the circle was still filled in. I change some settings to get the hole to show up. Enabled single outline extrusion.Thanks. ;D
Can you add some support to either side of the center ring? That area was reinforced on the original parts.
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/GW8AAOSw5cNYGoQd/s-l300.jpg)
Well I finished my design for the TMC speed loader/winder and I have also altered it to fit my T15.
Also printed some extended mag releases for my TPX’s.
Paintball prints seem to be the order of business atm lol
Well I finished my design for the TMC speed loader/winder and I have also altered it to fit my T15.
Also printed some extended mag releases for my TPX’s.
Paintball prints seem to be the order of business atm lol
You use tinkercad?
Well I finished my design for the TMC speed loader/winder and I have also altered it to fit my T15.
Also printed some extended mag releases for my TPX’s.
Paintball prints seem to be the order of business atm lol
You use tinkercad?
Ashamed to say ive been using sketchup lol
Well I finished my design for the TMC speed loader/winder and I have also altered it to fit my T15.
Also printed some extended mag releases for my TPX’s.
Paintball prints seem to be the order of business atm lol
You use tinkercad?
Ashamed to say ive been using sketchup lol
I like sketchup wayyyyyy better than tinkercad
Just wanted to say thanks for all the contributors to this thread. I learned a lot plowing through these 19 pages. I picked up an A8 and am having fun with it. Still getting through some test pieces and upgrades. :cheers:
Anybody have tips for success printing something thinner than 1mm? Like maybe down to .6mm? ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- starts to get weird down there...
Here's what I'm getting. The one on the right is closer to 1mm. Less than that and I get the other results. (Those are supposed to be Galaga ships)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=368773;image)
05SRT4 can you print me a dog like you have in your picture? How long did he take to print? I like the model.
We had “The Grammys” as the theme at work for our department Halloween costume, so I printed these bad boys.
We had “The Grammys” as the theme at work for our department Halloween costume, so I printed these bad boys.
Look copper/bronze. Did you paint those?
Tomorrow I am getting an U-P-G-R-A-Y-E-D-D! (Spelt thusly with two D's for a double dose of pimpin')
Time to say goodbye to the old Da Vinci.
(https://cdn.pricespy.co.nz/product/standard/800/4007821.jpg)
What chu gettin’ Shaft?
That tank looks awesome :cheers:
So which one of you 3D Print studs wanna print me up this badass Metal Slug Tank? :laugh:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2301417
Ooooooh, there are Robotron prints too! (though not very detailed)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2606181
I've always gotten bored around level 3 and never actually finished a Metal Slug game.Credit feeding? Or on 1 credit?
:dunno
I printed the slug tank last year.
Loved it!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191111/3513491cc2265c3cae496114f33a425c.jpg)
I printed the slug tank last year.
Loved it!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191111/3513491cc2265c3cae496114f33a425c.jpg)
I printed the slug tank last year.
Loved it!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191111/3513491cc2265c3cae496114f33a425c.jpg)
So I ended up getting a Resin printer. Anycubic Photon (https://www.anycubic.com/products/anycubic-photon-3d-printer).
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0245/5519/2380/files/PHOTON-03.jpg?1408)
If anyone has questions about it let me know. Main things to note:
Smell is terrible, you cannot be in the same room with it. I printed a huge carbon filter which helped tremendously but you can still tell.
Clean up is a bit annoying, but once you have a nice setup its not that bad, basically gloves, 2 bath buckets of Isopropyl alcohol and a Curing station.
Post clean up is so much better, just pull off supports and a very little bit of sanding depending on how the supports came off.
Latest print: Zero sanding, just washed and cured. Detail is amazing
(https://i.imgur.com/v9GwMLL.jpg)
I printed the slug tank last year.
Loved it!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191111/3513491cc2265c3cae496114f33a425c.jpg)
that looks solid.
settings?
I printed the slug tank last year.
Loved it!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191111/3513491cc2265c3cae496114f33a425c.jpg)
that looks solid.
settings?
I printed it last year so dont remember the exact settings but I usually print with a 0.4 nozzle at .12 layer height.
I printed the slug tank last year.
Loved it!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191111/3513491cc2265c3cae496114f33a425c.jpg)
that looks solid.
settings?
I printed it last year so dont remember the exact settings but I usually print with a 0.4 nozzle at .12 layer height.
how big is that and how long did it take to print?
I printed the slug tank last year.
Loved it!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191111/3513491cc2265c3cae496114f33a425c.jpg)
that looks solid.
settings?
I printed it last year so dont remember the exact settings but I usually print with a 0.4 nozzle at .12 layer height.
how big is that and how long did it take to print?
Its about 4” high, I printed it as individual parts and stuck it all together.
Afraid I cant recall the exact print time but I did it over a weekend so about 2 days butbI dont print over night.
I printed the slug tank last year.
Loved it!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191111/3513491cc2265c3cae496114f33a425c.jpg)
that looks solid.
settings?
I printed it last year so dont remember the exact settings but I usually print with a 0.4 nozzle at .12 layer height.
how big is that and how long did it take to print?
Its about 4” high, I printed it as individual parts and stuck it all together.
Afraid I cant recall the exact print time but I did it over a weekend so about 2 days butbI dont print over night.
sounds about right.
there is a two piece version I may try.
the 5 multi-part wasn't lining up for me and the single piece is looking like support removal hell.
Titch - thanks for confirming.
I relooked are the 5 or 6 piece stls I printed and figured out why they didn’t fit.
The scaling is off between track and body. Not sure what I did wrong.
So I’ll go back and scale all the parts together.
Slightly larger, different model from what opt2not is asking for. Looking at the one he asked for seems like a post print nightmare.
im down to print a bigger one if you want that styleSure! I’d love one.
im down to print a bigger one if you want that styleSure! I’d love one.
PM me where this is going.PM sent! :cheers:
those look amazing.
how long to print?
after many issues with my hot end i'm starting to print parts for this now.
got some nice shiny silver filament.
those look amazing.
how long to print?
after many issues with my hot end i'm starting to print parts for this now.
got some nice shiny silver filament.
The largest one was 7 hours.
Sure would be cool if someone could print me one of these.....
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3927079
(https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3927079)
Sure would be cool if someone could print me one of these.....Here's a modded version of the base for anyone wanting one without the button hole.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3927079
(https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3927079)
// Saturn Fenrir ODE (Optical Drive Emulator) Base
// Plugs unnecessary button hole in original base.
// Remix of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3927079 by Zitruskeks
/////////////////////////////
// Define variables
/////////////////////////////
basethick = 6.4;
// Number of fragments (polygon sides) used to render a full circle.
$fn = 180; // Default = 180 Typical range = 6 - 360
// 6 will render a circular hole as a hexagon, 8 will render a circular hole as an octagon.
// Lower the number for faster rendering, raise the number for smoother rendering.
/////////////////////////////
// Make the part
/////////////////////////////
// Import .stl
import("Base.stl"); // The .stl filename is case sensitive and the file must be in same folder as this OpenSCAD file
color("gray")
translate([19.6, -28, basethick/2])
cylinder(basethick,d=10.2,center=true); // Plug the button hole
Ah, so it is using one of those SD cables with the screw mounts. Glad I didn’t order one just yet, though i suspect if you crack open the plastic case found on some of them, you find the screw mount version inside.The guy that posted the model on Thingiverse described the extender he used as "a 25cm one" -- no links or pics. ::)
// Saturn Fenrir ODE (Optical Drive Emulator) Micro SD Extender Cover
// Original cover hollow was the wrong size for many commonly available extenders.
// This remake cover is designed to work with the ODE base from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3927079 by Zitruskeks
// Logo exported from Inkscape to .dxf file using https://github.com/brad/Inkscape-OpenSCAD-DXF-Export
/////////////////////////////
// Define variables
/////////////////////////////
CoverX = 38.4; // Overall width of the case
CoverY = 40.7; // Overall depth of the case
CoverZ = 9; // Overall height of the case
ScrewHoleOffset = 21; // Distance from back of case to center of screw holes
ScrewHoleWidth = 34; // Center-to-center distance between holes
ScrewHoleDia = 2.5; // Screw hole diameter
CaseX = 25; // Overall width of the extender case
CaseY = 33; // Overall depth of the extender case
CaseZ = 7.4; // Overall Height of the extender case
CornerDia = 6; // Corner diameter on the extender case
CaseOffset = 0.1; // Distance the extender case protrudes beyond the cover
RibbonWidth = 21; // Ribbon cable width
RibbonDepth = 6; // Y-axis distance to allow ribbon cable to bend
LogoX = 32.15; //Logo X-axis size
LogoY = 21.7; //Logo Y-axis size
LogoDepth = 0.5; // Depth of the logo
CurveDia = 40; // Diameter of the front curve
CurveOffset = 32.5; // Distance past the front edge of the cover to place the front curve cylinder
// Number of fragments (polygon sides) used to render a full circle.
$fn = 180; // Default = 180 Typical range = 6 - 360
// 6 will render a circular hole as a hexagon, 8 will render a circular hole as an octagon.
// Lower the number for faster rendering, raise the number for smoother rendering.
/////////////////////////////
// Make the part
/////////////////////////////
difference(){ // Cover minus Saturn Logo, screw holes, extender case, ribbon cable space, and front curve
// Cover
translate ([0, -CoverY/2, CoverZ/2])
cube ([CoverX, CoverY, CoverZ], center=true);
//
// Saturn Logo (Optional)
// Comment out the next four lines to skip the logo.
translate([-LogoX/2, -CoverY/2 - LogoY/2, CoverZ - LogoDepth + 0.01])
resize(newsize=[LogoX ,LogoY ,LogoDepth])
linear_extrude(height = LogoDepth, convexity = 10)
import(file = "Saturn_Logo.dxf", layer="Logo"); // Saturn logo
// The "Saturn_Logo.dxf" file needs to be in the same directory as this OpenSCAD file.
// Screw holes
translate([-ScrewHoleWidth/2, -ScrewHoleOffset, CoverZ/4])
cylinder (CoverZ/2 + 0.1, d = ScrewHoleDia, center=true); // Left screw hole
translate([ScrewHoleWidth/2, -ScrewHoleOffset, CoverZ/4])
cylinder (CoverZ/2 + 0.1, d = ScrewHoleDia, center=true); // Right screw hole
// Extender case
hull() {
translate([CaseX/2 - CornerDia/2, -CoverY + CaseY - CornerDia/2 - CaseOffset, CaseZ/2])
cylinder (CaseZ + 0.01, d = CornerDia, center=true); // Back right corner
translate([CaseX/2 - CornerDia/2, -CoverY + CornerDia/2 - CaseOffset, CaseZ/2])
cylinder (CaseZ + 0.01, d = CornerDia, center=true); // Front right corner
translate([-CaseX/2 + CornerDia/2, -CoverY + CornerDia/2 - CaseOffset, CaseZ/2])
cylinder (CaseZ + 0.01, d = CornerDia, center=true); // Front left corner
translate([-CaseX/2 + CornerDia/2, -CoverY + CaseY - CornerDia/2 - CaseOffset, CaseZ/2])
cylinder (CaseZ + 0.01, d = CornerDia, center=true); // Back left corner
} // End extender case
// Ribbon cable space
translate ([0, -CoverY + CaseY + RibbonDepth/2 - CaseOffset - 0.1, CaseZ/2])
cube ([RibbonWidth, RibbonDepth, CaseZ + 0.01], center=true);
// Front curve
translate([0, -CoverY - CurveOffset/2, CoverZ/2])
cylinder (CoverZ + 0.1, d = CurveDia, center=true);
} // End difference
//
Had to take a soldering iron and hobby knife to it, but got it mounted. Holes were a little too tight, and there’s some alignment pegs on the case that were blocking it. I think the original author snapped his off or maybe his console revision didn’t have them. So I melted out a notch and waved the shaft around in the holes to widen them and good to go.If anyone printing their own has this problem, LMK how much larger the holes need to be and measurements for where and how big to make the alignment notch.
I’d make the holes bigger and expand them inward.It'll be easy to reverse engineer the current X/Y position and size for the four mount holes -- then anyone can adjust those variables as needed, render, and export as an STL file. ;D
Anyone bored and want to print something? It’d be a whole lot cooler if you did.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4541111 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4541111)
:dunno
Anyone bored and want to print something? It’d be a whole lot cooler if you did.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4541111 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4541111)
:dunno
does it matter what color?
Stretched the bed of my monoprice mini. Waiting for the mailman to bring a longer belt today. Original bed will attach to adjuster screws shown. Piece of glass cut from scrap will go on top to print longer stuff when needed. Spent about $25 including the epoxy to attach the bed halves to some small J channel. Might spend a couple more on nuts and bolts to make thumb screw adjusters.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201127/67539df6892375118745a6f53dcc3ac9.jpg)
do you need to adjust the dimensions in the firmware or doe that get handled in the slicer?
do you need to adjust the dimensions in the firmware or doe that get handled in the slicer?
Don't need to mess with the firmware.
Dimensions are adjusted under machine settings in Cura.
(Point of origin set by limit switches on machine, then dimensions in each direction from there are whatever is entered in Cura.)
While using the stock heated bed, I have a magnet stuck to the underside to trip the y-axis limit switch at the front edge of the shorter bed instead of where the longer glass bed would be.
The only PITA thing with this setup is the height change when stacking the glass plate on top.
Either the adjuster screws will have to be tightened down and re-leveled to lower the glass to the current height, or I'll have to rig up some type of spacer or adjuster on the z-axis limit switch.
I may end up just making a full length bed out of metal, but I suck at working with metal and don't want to spend money on an additional bed heater.
I am no expert on 3D printing stuff.
purple gluestick is my go to as all my beds are glass.Does the glass start to splinter? I’ve read that.
I tried glass but quickly gave up.... my problem was things stuck too well..... I couldn't get them removed and I eventually cracked it. It was just a cheap piece of scrap glass though, nothing specialized for a 3d printer.I ordered something specialized for a printer - we’ll see how it does.
Nice! We need official BYOAC Dickbutts.Actually, I’ve been handing them out to BYOACERS at ZapCon for years. That and Adventure dragons. Printing a Grundle as we speak, actually!
purple gluestick is my go to as all my beds are glass.Does the glass start to splinter? I’ve read that.
I think my PEI sheet is ready to give up the ghost soon as well. Considering going to glass myself.
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First real test print - nice results!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201221/247b7b42e8fe03a697c39dd0deb91ee4.jpg)
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A friend who does property management found an XYZ Da Vinci Jr abandoned in an apartment.Nice! Always fun to tinker!
this is a printer with NFC tagged filament.
costs about $40 for a 500kg roll.
so I can see why it was abandoned.
it actually prints pretty good and is fully enclosed.
I have an NFC tag writer and tags so i'm either going to try and follow the instructions for spoofing the tags or replace the board with something that doesn't require tags.
the manufacturer does sell an NFC tag of their own to unlock the printer but for almost $70 shipped and nope'd right out of that option.
this printer will go on the shelf until i figure out what I want to do with it.
may even just replace the board.
will take a lot of splicing though because the xyz doesn't use standard connectors.
How much were your upgrades total? I want to get mine back online (needs a new table) and I might as well do improvements as I go.Good question. Here’s a list of the upgrades:
Oh man I think you just learned of pla's low melting temp.
Slicer of choice?I’ve been using SuperSlicer to good results. The only thing I don’t like is how it does supports. Original Cura seems to do them best.
I've just been using an older version of Cura that came with my printer. Tried the newest version, but had better results with the old one.
An issue has surfaced that I believe is caused by underextrusion following a long unnecessary travel path taken by Cura. I fiddled with some setting that made it remove some of the trips accross the object, but am curious if a different slicer would just make trips around the perimeter like I think should be done.
EDIT: Newest version of Cura takes a much better path. Still interested to know what slicer people are using. I downloaded PrusaSlicer, but have only tinkered with it a few minutes.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210107/0c75d5a9a531f0ff18224a1d18b3fad0.jpg)
I’m currently printing the connector parts for the new frame using PETG for the first time.
Dunno where else to post this. $9 worth of Semitsu buttons + $6 shipping to have proper color buttons for my $140 cnc machine. I seem to be drawing out the process of setting up the machine and 3D printing accessories rather than learning how to use it. I did learn how to set up and calibrate the machine in grbl so that's something.Love it, dude!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210123/16e2b964bbd04f081ce07c811c7f9649.jpg)
Once mine dried, they were rock solid.I’m currently printing the connector parts for the new frame using PETG for the first time.
Just printed my first PETG parts an hour ago!
The shiny black looks better than the dull grey and blue PLA that I use for everything.
Parts seem soft/rubbery, but they are thin and were still warm when I made the observation.
I should be getting the parts today to upgrade my Anet A8 frame to aluminum! I’ve spent the past month really getting this machine dialed in, and this was the next natural step. It’s also the final step, as I plan to save up this year to build a Voron by this time next year. I’ve really enjoyed how much I’ve learned about 3D printing these last few month. The trick is to find someone just as enthusiastic who knows more than you and is willing to share knowledge! :)
I’m currently printing the connector parts for the new frame using PETG for the first time.
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Wish I had the space for a CNC. I bought the parts to make one, but ended up with no space. Keep us posted!
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FYI, if you need just a little filament in various colors for a few small prints, do not be tempted to buy the polaroid pen pla at Joanne fabrics.
I got some polaroid PTEG and it seems great. The interwebs says that they buy and rebrand from wherever they can get a deal, so the quality is not consistent.
Some colors print fine. Two of colors I need clogged my nozzle repeatedly and eventually bonded to the PTFE tube inside the heatbreak.
Kept going higher with the temperature hoping to get it to stop clogging. Maybe I cooked it.
Printer is down until replacement parts come. :cry:
get the Capricorn or Capricorn clone PTFE tube.
it's usually dark blue. get the cutter. it's worth it.
i also use it for small engine gas line (whacker and chainsaws) when replacing carburetors.
I had to replace the white one on my printer after trying to print pet-g.
when i pulled the white ptfe out it was almost black on the end and the hole had narrowed so much filament wouldn't go through it.
get the Capricorn or Capricorn clone PTFE tube.
it's usually dark blue. get the cutter. it's worth it.
i also use it for small engine gas line (whacker and chainsaws) when replacing carburetors.
I had to replace the white one on my printer after trying to print pet-g.
when i pulled the white ptfe out it was almost black on the end and the hole had narrowed so much filament wouldn't go through it.
I saw bowden tube size, but none as small as what's in my heatbreak (3mmOD, 1.78 or 2mm ID).
Cheap heatbreak replacements with ptfe inserts will be here in a couple days, but after reading up on the subject I decided to order a genuine 3DP V6 all metal hotend. The old mp mini select probably isn't worth the upgrade, but I felt like it was going to nickle and dime me to that amount of money anyway. The V6 bracket was the first thing I printed, as is recommended.
A good, upgraded Voron will run you over $1000, but the quality is impeccable. That’s why I’m playing the long game with that one.I should be getting the parts today to upgrade my Anet A8 frame to aluminum! I’ve spent the past month really getting this machine dialed in, and this was the next natural step. It’s also the final step, as I plan to save up this year to build a Voron by this time next year. I’ve really enjoyed how much I’ve learned about 3D printing these last few month. The trick is to find someone just as enthusiastic who knows more than you and is willing to share knowledge! :)
I’m currently printing the connector parts for the new frame using PETG for the first time.
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how have I never heard of the VORON?
what's the average cost to build one of these?
i'm talking the parts other than those you 3d print.
Wish I had the space for a CNC. I bought the parts to make one, but ended up with no space. Keep us posted!
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mine is still on the dining room table.
soon to be leaning up against the china cabinet.
It draws a pretty crown though with a marker.
It turns out i need more room than i thought to set it up and be able to actually use it.
so I have more work down in the basement.
After installing a new heatbreak with fresh ptfe liner, the mini select was back up and running with my usual filament.Nice. When I get done with this frame update this weekend, the only original parts will be the stepper
Tried to print the polaroid pen filament again and it clogged again. In the process of clearing that, I assume that I damaged the thermistor wires because the temperature showed maxed out.
Shows maxed out even without the thermistor plugged into the main board. From what I read online, the main board is now bad.
So I have a $60 hotend on the way for a 5 year old $150 printer with a bad board. :timebomb:
I could swap in a ramps setup (with learning curve), but at this point I'm sick of working on it and sick of spending money on it.
The hotend I ordered is 12v, so it will only work with certain printers. The return policy (printedsolid) says they only process returns once a month, so a refund might take that long.
ugh......
I'd get an Ender 3, but they are 24v and the whole wheel/guide setup just doesn't seem like a good system to me.
Settled on an Anycube Mega S. Not as much support for it, but it's ready to print after attaching a few screws and it's 12v so I can still use the e3d v6.
Oh, and let me know how the e3d v6 upgrade goes. I may or may not go that route myself.After watching a bunch of videos, I'm digging the new style hot ends like the slice mosquito that aren't a bunch of cylindrical parts screwed together. They bolt on straight and don't twist, so you don't have to grab the heater block with channel locks when screwing in a different nozzle (and end up shorting out the thermistor circuit in the process).
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Nice. When I get done with this frame update this weekend, the only original parts will be the stepperIf only I had a working 3D printer, I could print parts to build a new 3D printer......
motors and the PCB.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210127/978ac4f1197b30c7e0892c1612a96b8b.jpg)
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After installing a new heatbreak with fresh ptfe liner, the mini select was back up and running with my usual filament.
Tried to print the polaroid pen filament again and it clogged again. In the process of clearing that, I assume that I damaged the thermistor wires because the temperature showed maxed out.
Shows maxed out even without the thermistor plugged into the main board. From what I read online, the main board is now bad.
So I have a $60 hotend on the way for a 5 year old $150 printer with a bad board. :timebomb:
I could swap in a ramps setup (with learning curve), but at this point I'm sick of working on it and sick of spending money on it.
The hotend I ordered is 12v, so it will only work with certain printers. The return policy (printedsolid) says they only process returns once a month, so a refund might take that long.
ugh......
I'd get an Ender 3, but they are 24v and the whole wheel/guide setup just doesn't seem like a good system to me.
Settled on an Anycube Mega S. Not as much support for it, but it's ready to print after attaching a few screws and it's 12v so I can still use the e3d v6.
Aaaaaaaand I decided to get a 12v e3d v6 as well. Might as well go the distance.
Should be here Saturday!
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I'd never heard of the Voron before you mentioned it. Whenever I get a cheap printer up and running, I'm going to start planning for a Voron.My friend that built it is very thorough in her research and process. When she decided to get into 3D printing, she went straight for a Prusa and learned on that. She used the Voron recently to print a filter for her telescope, and I was blown away by the quality and complexity of the print. There’s no way my Anet could even approach that. I could probably print a nice spacer block to put under each telescope leg to raise it an inch!
We have uploaded the product you bought,....yeah that thing is still sitting in China. US warehouse ---my bottom---.
and we will transport it for you soon, but the tracking number has not yet come out, please wait patiently
Hah - I started an Amazon with list with Voron parts! I have a $50 gift card I got for Christmas that I think I’m gonna use to buy the six stepper motors.QuoteWe have uploaded the product you bought,....yeah that thing is still sitting in China. US warehouse ---my bottom---.
and we will transport it for you soon, but the tracking number has not yet come out, please wait patiently
They followed up with a "DHL tracking number" that is actually a UPS tracking number, but I'm betting they've only printed the label.
We'll see if it gets scanned into the UPS system on Monday.
I want to get the MP mini select back up at some point, but have decided that I will not spend any money on parts unless they can be re-used on a Voron build.
I watched some videos on installing Marlin on the SKR v1.3 board the Voron uses and the learning curve doesn't seem bad at all.
Between those and details given in a MP Mini Select to Ramps instructables, I'm pretty sure that I can get the SKR board running the Mini without too much hassle.
So I've ordered the SKR v1.3 board, Fysetc display and 2209 drivers spec'd in the Voron 2.4 BOM with the intention of using them with the mini for now.
EDIT: got an email from UPS that the package is scheduled for delivery tomorrow, but the tracking number shows not picked up yet. Email source seems to be legit. It would be awesome to get it tomorrow.
I have an anycubic printer.
check the fasteners on the parts you didn't assemble.
most of mine needed a few turns.
Just printing some last minute items, but everything is ready for the transition to the metal frame. I might start as early as today, but really thinking about making it an all-day Saturday project.
Yeah, I’m excited to get this done. I opted to go a bit longer on the Y Axis, so I ordered some new side extrusions that should be here any minute now. Can’t wait to tear down and start rebuilding!Just printing some last minute items, but everything is ready for the transition to the metal frame. I might start as early as today, but really thinking about making it an all-day Saturday project.
Comparing the metal frame of this Anycubic Mega S to the 20x20mm extrusion frame of my mini CNC, there is no comparison.
Although thick metal, the stamped steel L flexes like crazy compared to the extrusion which has no noticeable flex.
Extrusions all the way.
Yeah, I’m excited to get this done. I opted to go a bit longer on the Y Axis, so I ordered some new side extrusions that should be here any minute now. Can’t wait to tear down and start rebuilding!
Yeah, Misumi is great. Ordered Monday, I already installed the longer pieces. Time to slowly tear down the acrylic frame.Yeah, I’m excited to get this done. I opted to go a bit longer on the Y Axis, so I ordered some new side extrusions that should be here any minute now. Can’t wait to tear down and start rebuilding!
I had ordered a small piece of extrusion from Amazon to test a few things out on, but after checking Misumi's prices I cancelled and did a larger order from there.
https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302683830/?curSearch=%7b%22field%22%3a%22%40search%22%2c%22seriesCode%22%3a%22110302683830%22%2c%22innerCode%22%3a%22%22%2c%22sort%22%3a1%2c%22specSortFlag%22%3a0%2c%22allSpecFlag%22%3a0%2c%22page%22%3a1%2c%22pageSize%22%3a%2260%22%2c%22stockItemFlag%22%3a%221%22%2c%22fixedInfo%22%3a%22innerCode%3aMDM00001299029%7c121%22%7d&Tab=wysiwyg_area_0 (https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302683830/?curSearch=%7b%22field%22%3a%22%40search%22%2c%22seriesCode%22%3a%22110302683830%22%2c%22innerCode%22%3a%22%22%2c%22sort%22%3a1%2c%22specSortFlag%22%3a0%2c%22allSpecFlag%22%3a0%2c%22page%22%3a1%2c%22pageSize%22%3a%2260%22%2c%22stockItemFlag%22%3a%221%22%2c%22fixedInfo%22%3a%22innerCode%3aMDM00001299029%7c121%22%7d&Tab=wysiwyg_area_0)
Wasn't going to mention it yet, but I dug out some new old stock NSK linear rails that a friend gave me a few years ago for helping them.
Was saving them for a CNC machine, but decided to see if they would work for a 3D printer. The rails are huge, 40mm wide and thick. The blocks only have threads for 3mm screws though, so I'm not sure they are fit for a bigger CNC router. Surely overkill, but man are they smooth. Zero play also. Got two 740mm rails with 2 blocks each, so if I cut them in half (gasp), I'll have four <370mm rails. They are too heavy to be on any moving parts, but could be used for rails that attach to the frame. I could use them for the Y and Z on a giant Voron 0 or use them all on the Z axis of a Voron 2.4.
Thinking that a 40mm wide guide could be easily aligned on a 2040 extrusion, I ordered $100 worth of stock to play with from Misumi (three 2040x1000, six 2020x1000).
So I'm headed down the road to committing the Voron sins of using the wrong parts and cutting/drilling/tapping my own extrusion. I don't think it will be that bad. I'm tapping holes that are already there. The holes drilled in the extrusion don't need to be precise. They just need to line up well enough for an allen key to reach the head of the button head bolt on the other side. As far as getting the cuts straight, I have a table saw sled calibrated this way (still plan to keep track of the factory edges and use them on the most important joints):
https://youtu.be/UbG-n--LFgQ
Mega S got here tonight, but it's still freezing cold from being in the UPS truck so I'm going to let it acclimate before turning it on.
For all my whining, delivery time was only six days. (the tracking number showed "on way to UPS" up until yesterday)I have an anycubic printer.
check the fasteners on the parts you didn't assemble.
most of mine needed a few turns.
You weren't kidding. Every single one needed at least a half turn.
so, it turns out with the XYZ 3d printer i was gifted, if you just use cura to connect to it, it ignores the NFC chip in the spool you buy.:cheers:
so, it turns out with the XYZ 3d printer i was gifted, if you just use cura to connect to it, it ignores the NFC chip in the spool you buy.:cheers:
It's alive! No idea of it's accurate or can print, but the steppers are all moving in their proper directions. Pretty sure the numbers I put in Marlin from the mpminiselect wiki are reliable. Only part I had trouble with was the Fysetc Mini 12864 V1.2 board. The tutorial I was following used a different LCD and there were some settings under NEOPIXEL_LED that I missed. The bigger thing was that the connector on the board is upside down from what it needs to be when used with the skr1.3 board! Finally came accross it on the Fysetc website.Let me know how the V6 install goes. I plan to do mine in the next week or so.
Tomorrow V6 gets installed and then I'm sure it's lots of tweaking. Hoping this can be a dedicated ABS printer with which to build parts for a bigger ABS printer. (It is on a chair because the USB cable that comes with the skr board is like 1ft long) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210207/54c42c7dbe60c694baa3d49e9e3d80b0.jpg)
I picked up an MPMD for cheap that someone bricked while trying to update.Nice - I kind of want to find a bricked printer to take the parts and convert it to a laser engraver.
so i put the custom firmware on it that is out there in the community that lets you use a 10 amp power supply to heat faster and higher.
took multiple tries to get it to take but it did.
thought i'd have to buy a new mainboard.
didn't have an old SD-card that it would read when booting.
had a micro-SD to SD adaptor cable and a 1gb SD card.
it worked!
ran the calibration program and so far it's printing good now.
Also, found out i'm getting a small bonus from work next week so i'm going to pick up a 2k mono-screen resin printer.
they are ~$200 now because everyone is about 4k.
looking at the voxlab Proxima and a led UV light with a light activated turntable.
just need a homer bucket to line with tin foil for a curing station.
I'm just printing mini's for D&D and skirmish games so i think i'll be good with just a paltry 2 k. :)
Let me know how the V6 install goes. I plan to do mine in the next week or so.
Bah, removed the jumpers and noticed the switches were working, but as NC. Changed behavior in Marlin and now they are working properly. I don't know what I just wasted all evening on.Heh.
I picked up an MPMD for cheap that someone bricked while trying to update.Nice - I kind of want to find a bricked printer to take the parts and convert it to a laser engraver.
so i put the custom firmware on it that is out there in the community that lets you use a 10 amp power supply to heat faster and higher.
took multiple tries to get it to take but it did.
thought i'd have to buy a new mainboard.
didn't have an old SD-card that it would read when booting.
had a micro-SD to SD adaptor cable and a 1gb SD card.
it worked!
ran the calibration program and so far it's printing good now.
Also, found out i'm getting a small bonus from work next week so i'm going to pick up a 2k mono-screen resin printer.
they are ~$200 now because everyone is about 4k.
looking at the voxlab Proxima and a led UV light with a light activated turntable.
just need a homer bucket to line with tin foil for a curing station.
I'm just printing mini's for D&D and skirmish games so i think i'll be good with just a paltry 2 k. :)
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Bah, removed the jumpers and noticed the switches were working, but as NC. Changed behavior in Marlin and now they are working properly. I don't know what I just wasted all evening on.
Good to see it running again!
I printed this Voron cube.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210209/ca7e378079446c52d1ef9d761a6f5acf.jpg)
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Nice. I want one. Gonna try to print some Voron pulley system parts on the mini this weekend. Hopefully they turn out useable.
Been a bit disappointed with the Mega S. I've gotten by with it, but couldn't seem to get any aspect dialed in. Couldn't even get the bed level without the back corner knob loosened so much it would fall off.
Turned out the Y axis plate was bent in multiple ways. Was afraid I wouldn't be able to straighten it, but it turned out to be some weird super soft metal that bends easy. Got a decent first layer now, but still have a long ways to go. While IMO the design of this printer is superior to the Ender3, I can't say I recommend it. Too many quality control issues and it makes a high pitch whine that won't allow me to get a good night's sleep with it running.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210210/534db03762ae8f807663b76e720c59ea.jpg)
Printed a Voron cube in ABS last night to see if the mini was up to the task. Turned out great except for the bridge on the inside. Thought I was ready to start printing parts. Bracket looked good when I left it. Came back to a lifted and warped corner. Thought I could get away printing on a 75 degree bed since it was sticking. Guess not. Despite being warped it is crazy strong. Gonna crank up the heat and build a foam wall. Extending the bed is coming back to bite me in the ass when it comes to building an enclosure.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210212/5bd10e71f6350151b37097874136826c)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210212/d7328824d17652b08922081aede6d8dd.)
That sounds like a good trick!Printed a Voron cube in ABS last night to see if the mini was up to the task. Turned out great except for the bridge on the inside. Thought I was ready to start printing parts. Bracket looked good when I left it. Came back to a lifted and warped corner. Thought I could get away printing on a 75 degree bed since it was sticking. Guess not. Despite being warped it is crazy strong. Gonna crank up the heat and build a foam wall. Extending the bed is coming back to bite me in the ass when it comes to building an enclosure.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210212/5bd10e71f6350151b37097874136826c)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210212/d7328824d17652b08922081aede6d8dd.)
I have a heat lamp clamped to my Chiron and that usually lets me print smaller ABS parts just fine.
That sounds like a good trick!Printed a Voron cube in ABS last night to see if the mini was up to the task. Turned out great except for the bridge on the inside. Thought I was ready to start printing parts. Bracket looked good when I left it. Came back to a lifted and warped corner. Thought I could get away printing on a 75 degree bed since it was sticking. Guess not. Despite being warped it is crazy strong. Gonna crank up the heat and build a foam wall. Extending the bed is coming back to bite me in the ass when it comes to building an enclosure.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210212/5bd10e71f6350151b37097874136826c)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210212/d7328824d17652b08922081aede6d8dd.)
I have a heat lamp clamped to my Chiron and that usually lets me print smaller ABS parts just fine.
I think I’ve got stuff dialed in. Current state of the printer:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210213/8928c3aa5c5da423247ae61202ceefb4.jpg)
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It prints a LOT better. A lot faster too, since this sturdy frame isn’t subject to the same wobble and sway of the acrylic frame.That sounds like a good trick!Printed a Voron cube in ABS last night to see if the mini was up to the task. Turned out great except for the bridge on the inside. Thought I was ready to start printing parts. Bracket looked good when I left it. Came back to a lifted and warped corner. Thought I could get away printing on a 75 degree bed since it was sticking. Guess not. Despite being warped it is crazy strong. Gonna crank up the heat and build a foam wall. Extending the bed is coming back to bite me in the ass when it comes to building an enclosure.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210212/5bd10e71f6350151b37097874136826c)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210212/d7328824d17652b08922081aede6d8dd.)
I have a heat lamp clamped to my Chiron and that usually lets me print smaller ABS parts just fine.
I think I’ve got stuff dialed in. Current state of the printer:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210213/8928c3aa5c5da423247ae61202ceefb4.jpg)
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looks like a totally different printer.
I assume it prints a little better?
I like the heavenly glow. I can't wait to have something dialed in again.Yeah, I’ve been looking at steel spring surfaces as well. I’ll probably do the mount it to glass thing.
Despite raising the maximum bed temp in the firmware, the bed of the mini topped out around 77 degrees. It would go higher but not stay there.
A layer of rockwool (safe n sound) under it made a huge difference. It made and maintained 80 no problem, then 85, then 90. Then I started to worry that it was only designed for 80, so I didn't go any higher.
(the bed is actually a PCB with a thin aluminum sheet on one side).
Shortened the bed extension back to original size & bought some foil coated fiberboard insulation to build an enclosure.
Haven't attempted ABS again yet, except for running test prints for Marlin settings.
Bought a spring steel sheet with magnetic base for the Mega S. What I didn't think about until after it was done is that it is only going to be as flat as the plate it is attached to.
So it isn't as flat as the original glass "ultrabase", which I had problems removing large flat prints from. It's not horrible, a slight hump in the middle where the first layer goes on too thin.
Not sure if I'm keeping it or not, but the smart thing to do would have been to mount the magnetic sheet to a piece of tempered glass instead of the printer bed.
My resin printer showed up late saturday after being on an amazon truck all day in 15 deg weather.Yeah, and closures of the best. Once I get everything all buttoned up, I’ll post a picture of the new machine inside the enclosure I made.
I left it sit out on the table all night to let it acclimate.
opened up the bottle of water soluble resin i bought with it and hollee heck it smells.
kids were complaining.
so i'm waiting until they go to their mom's tonight to play with it.
I've read the regular stuff smells even worse.
good thing i worked on my basement this weekend.
i have a long bench down there i can almost get to. :)
i have some insulation board and steel 2x4's I plan to use to build one giant enclosure for all my printers and use heat lamps to warm it.
looks like I need to add an exhaust fan to it now.
only cost to me is the plexi for the front and maybe a new surface for the bench if I can't sand it smooth and paint it.
I haven't seen the top in 5 yrs so no idea what it looks like. LOL!
And it looks like I can sheets of 24"x48" lexan for 32$ at lowes.
it's .08" thick but i really just want to keep air movement and temp changes from happening while being able to see what is going on with the printer vs really insulating it so it should be fine.
That is a sweet looking pcb cage.Nice - yeah, that glass i bought was a nice upgrade. I also picked up a new bed to replace the stock Anet one.
Removed the magnetic sheet from the Mega S. The adhesive was a huge PITA to remove. Reinstalled the stock glass ultrabase. Clipped the PEI/spring steel sheet on top of that using binder clips. Had to cut out around the clips that hold the ultrabase on, but now I have a removable flexible base that is flat.
So FYI, you can get away with just clipping a spring steel sheet on without using (or buying) the magnetic base. The one I got was flat enough anyway.
While I'm not a fan of binder clips, I'm much happier with this setup. It is much flatter that using the magnetic sticker on the bare slightly domed buildplate.
Here’s the cage installed:
I attached a pic of what he built when he was 16.
I was interested in the Voran printer you guys were talking about. I checked out the website and downloaded the BOM for the Voron 2. Its was a LONG listing and somewhat intimidating....lol.
Cool, glad to see you’re all in on the Voron. I plan to be there by the end of the year. Building the AM8 has been a good exercise for me. Plus, I’ll be able to print better quality parts for the Voron. Hell. I might even reprint some of the parts for the AM8!Here’s the cage installed:
Clip yo zip-ties!I attached a pic of what he built when he was 16.
Looks like a dream build for most people. :cheers:I was interested in the Voran printer you guys were talking about. I checked out the website and downloaded the BOM for the Voron 2. Its was a LONG listing and somewhat intimidating....lol.
I'm about $750 into it with probably another $300 to go. Credit card company started stopping the charges about 5 orders in on AliExpress. The Misumi site allowed me to order the black anodized extrusions, but they won't ship until May. So I am expecting to have everything here and build in May. I bought an SKR 1.3 to get the Mini back up and running with the intention of using it on the Voron later, but now the BOM specifies a 1.4 (sourcing guide still links to the 1.3). I will buy the electronics last in case something changes.
I originally wanted to cut my own extrusion and use linear rails which I already had, but customizing Marlin for my Monoprice Mini Select made me realize that I would not enjoy setting up the software side of a custom build. With the Voron, everything is already worked out (hopefully) and I just need to follow instructions (hopefully).
This is very much against my BYO nature, but I am sticking to the plan down to the colors.
That's a VERY clean print up there Yots.I need to research resin printers. I really don’t know anything about them. In a nutshell, how are they different from FDM 3D printers?
my last rpizero print had a few strings in between the vents.
resin printer is up and running.
but man the Ball Joint leveling system the voxelabs proxima uses....i cannot recommend just for that.
took me 2 hrs to get it level.
it uses a set screw on the front and side along with a screw on the back which just keeps the ball from falling out and shifting when you crank down on the other set screws.
took a bit to get the back screw to the point where it kept the ball from shifting but not pushing it forward and keeping the build plate from popping up on a corner when you tightened the screw.
the other resin printers with the 4 screws seem like it would be a lot easier.
anyway I printed the test file NP.
printed a really tiny zombie an inch tall (i forgot to scale the model) now i'm printing something bigger to see how that goes.
smell actually is not as bad as I expected, can only really smell the resin when right next to it or i take the top off.
Ok I've decide to build a Voron 300mm. I asked my son if he wanted to build another printer and he said "do we really need another printer we don't use this one very much". I said no I "want" another printer. Then later I said well you might move out soon and want to take this printer with you so I'd like to have one here I can use. The instructions have a few options to sort out. It says we should print the parts in ABS and we've never used that material. Not sure if I'd need to enclose the sides of the current printer. My other idea was print it with PLA like he normally does and then once built reprint everything with ABS. They also recommend using direct drive and he has a Bowden drive installed on the current one so not sure why they have that recommendation. Seems like they encourage you to buy the chain instead of printing one. I also see a hundred mods users have uploaded and wondered if I should just switch to any of those right of out the gate. So many decisions.Hey Gil - good questions!
So I placed an order with Bolt Depot for everything listed from there in the sourcing guide. Then I went to mark what I had bought in the BOM spreadsheet and noticed the quantities did not match for 6 items. I ordered some spares of everything but not enough to cover the differences on 3 of those. <bangs head on desk> Now I don't know what to trust in these listed quantities.
Update: Found another post online with the same comment so apparently only use the BOM spreadsheet for accurate quantities. Let my mistake help you...lol. I called and fixed my order.
I've never heard of bolt depot.
when i was building my printed CNC i ordered the hardware from the guy who created it because it was cheaper and supported his project but mostly because it was cheaper. :).
I had to deal with 2 different places and their shipping along with home depot and their prices.
i'll check this place out for my next build.
I think I spent too much and ordered from too many different places by following the sourcing guide. https://vorondesign.com/sourcing_guide?model=V2.4 (https://vorondesign.com/sourcing_guide?model=V2.4)Have you looked at enclosures? I did the IKEA Lack table hack but gave it my own flair. Most versions do all the sides in plexi but I wanted something a bit more industrial-looking:
The shipping charges from ordering 1 thing each from 8 different places probably made up for any money saved.
Got my bolt depot order yesterday. All bags labeled with description and quantity sticker on the front. (might have even had a drawing, I can't remember)
I noticed differences between the BOM and sourcing guide, but only caught half as many as you.
I wasn't finding a good source for the build plate and the local machine shops I've tried in the past haven't been cool to work with, so I ended up ordering the kit from digmach (along with the DIN rails for mounting the electronics). Probably paid a premium, but I'm tiring of placing orders for one single item.
In non Voron news, I printed an ABS fan bracket for the Mega on the mini and noticed that the end that curled up faced the tower.
The hotend fan was blowing air through the hotend toward the tower with nowhere for it to go. The part that curled up off the bed was getting hit by the airflow redirected by the tower.
I moved the fan to the least worst angle and the part printed fine. Still not attempting any more Voron parts until I have an enclosure built.
The bed of the Mega can get much hotter which has me wondering if I'm using the wrong printer for ABS. I'm still struggling to get the print quality dialed in on it though.
Have you looked at enclosures? I did the IKEA Lack table hack but gave it my own flair. Most versions do all the sides in plexi but I wanted something a bit more industrial-looking:
Cool. I think I paid $12 each for three IKEA Lack tables, and I bought one 24 x 48 sheet of plexi. The 1/2 MDF I had on hand, as well as the black and white paint. I printed clips for the windows as well.Have you looked at enclosures? I did the IKEA Lack table hack but gave it my own flair. Most versions do all the sides in plexi but I wanted something a bit more industrial-looking:
I looked at some on sites where I was buying parts, but just chuckled at the big price tags. I had not seen the Ikea table hack. It looks good.
The mini setup will be temporary though. Bought a $14 sheet of 1/2" foil backed foamboard and a roll of aluminum tape. I have piles of scrap optix left over from making cabs.
I want to maintain airflow through the bottom of the mini where the SKR board, Y and Z motors are. It's gonna be ugly, but do the job.
For the Voron they are showing two different types of T-nuts. Hammer head and another style with a spring loaded ball bearing. Wondering why I need both types. I was about to order from Aliexpress but it was kinda expensive for just that part of the order. Was considering the option of making the printed T-nut on Thingiverse where you just insert a nut. Any thoughts?I asked my friend that question for you Gil. This is what she said:
Wow this Voron build is adding up pretty fast. I'm at $882 and I've only ordered the Fasteners, Motion, frame extrusions, motors, and hotend. Hope there aren't too many more big ticket items. I know the build plate will be one. I found a build plate kit but of course it was only available in the two sizes I'm not building and sold out for mine. I did find a kit for the belts and pulley stuff then I go to finish out the one last line item in that section, the rails, and find out they will be $139 ($112 + shipping).
I’ve been building the Voron Afterburner hot end gantry. It’s cool to see it come together.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210223/cdeabbd48ccc3cbab18ddb5a1fded99f.jpg)
Here’s the extruder. I’m just waiting for the heat inserts to come in so I can finalize the assembly.
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Yep - couldn’t have done that without the aluminum frame!I’ve been building the Voron Afterburner hot end gantry. It’s cool to see it come together.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210223/cdeabbd48ccc3cbab18ddb5a1fded99f.jpg)
Here’s the extruder. I’m just waiting for the heat inserts to come in so I can finalize the assembly.
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those are some round circles.
very nice.
Yep - couldn’t have done that without the aluminum frame!I’ve been building the Voron Afterburner hot end gantry. It’s cool to see it come together.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210223/cdeabbd48ccc3cbab18ddb5a1fded99f.jpg)
Here’s the extruder. I’m just waiting for the heat inserts to come in so I can finalize the assembly.
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those are some round circles.
very nice.
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Well you had me thinking I ordered the wrong ones because I knew mine were 3x5x4 but the ones on AliExpress have the diameter as the middle number so I think I'm ok.Yeah, Ali and Amazon both list them differently. So if you bought them from Ali, you’re Golden.
Product properties: M3 X D5.0 X L4.0
Looking good.Oh yeah - I can print at higher speeds, with much greater accuracy. My circles are perfectly round as well
Notice any less ghosting n stuff with the improved frame?
I'm attempting to build one of those Lack table enclosures for my son's printer so he could print ABS for the Voron. He printed all the parts for it but the table is not tall enough so I've got to figure out how to modify the design. I had already ordered the plastic before I figured that out so I've got to modify in a way to hopefully still use those pieces. Thinking it should be a making a wooden square piece to raise the top up more. His printer uses a bowden drive so it has a stiff wooden tube that loops up over the top along with a wire bundle which makes you need at least 6 more inches above the printer.I built a Lack enclosure that’s designed a bit taller:
I'm attempting to build one of those Lack table enclosures for my son's printer so he could print ABS for the Voron. He printed all the parts for it but the table is not tall enough so I've got to figure out how to modify the design. I had already ordered the plastic before I figured that out so I've got to modify in a way to hopefully still use those pieces. Thinking it should be a making a wooden square piece to raise the top up more. His printer uses a bowden drive so it has a stiff wooden tube that loops up over the top along with a wire bundle which makes you need at least 6 more inches above the printer.I built a Lack enclosure that’s designed a bit taller:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2751130
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Are you guys going Bowden or Direct Drive on your Voron? My friend suggested Direct, as does everything else I’ve seen.
I don't know anything about 3D printers.Sure, but they’ll cost you a lot. The fun is in the tinkering, for me. Can’t wait to build my Voron.
Isn't there a model out there that does what you guys want without spending a bunch of time, money, and frustration trying to modify a cheap one?
I am not trying to be critical. I am just curious.
I understand what you are saying. I guess I consider it a tool. And I don't like tinkering with my tools. I just want them to do their job.I was the SAME EXACT WAY..... until I bought one.
I have my answer now. Carry on.
I like reading these posts because I don't have a 3D printer.
I looked into a Makerbot, but they have become expensive. I also felt like it might lock me into their software and filament.I hear you. I think you’ll be happy with the Voron. Having a friend who can vouch for it goes a long way for me. I’ve seen the quality firsthand.
Closest thing to what we are building would be Daedalus. https://www.projectr3d.com/shop/p/daedalus (https://www.projectr3d.com/shop/p/daedalus)
I didn't find out about them until after ordering most of the Voron parts.
Probably couldn't bring myself to spend that much anyway.
I am surprised that I laid out the money for Voron parts, but felt like a cheaper prebuilt printer would nickel and dime me on upgrades then fail to perform anyway.
I am not real comfortable with what I've spent, but hopefully the end result will be worth it.
I understand what you are saying. I guess I consider it a tool. And I don't like tinkering with my tools. I just want them to do their job.I was the SAME EXACT WAY..... until I bought one.
I have my answer now. Carry on.
I like reading these posts because I don't have a 3D printer.
I find the tinkering enjoyable.
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I have printed a million of these. Just printed this last night. If you’re a BYOACer who went to ZapCon, you probably have one.I understand what you are saying. I guess I consider it a tool. And I don't like tinkering with my tools. I just want them to do their job.I was the SAME EXACT WAY..... until I bought one.
I have my answer now. Carry on.
I like reading these posts because I don't have a 3D printer.
I find the tinkering enjoyable.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I still kinda laugh about the fact that most people use them to print figurines. It reminded me of the King of The Hill episode where Peggy was obsessed with miniatures. Upon review, it was Hank's mother who was obsessed with miniatures which isn't as funny for some reason. (sorry Nitrogen_Widget)
I vowed to only print useful stuff, but since getting one I have also started tinkering with cheap 1/16th scale WPL RC trucks.
I couldn't resist the urge to print 1/16th scale coolers/chainsaws, and other accessories for them. It's easy to scale an STL to whatever size you want.
I have become what I previously ridiculed. :lol
I'm itching to print this:That’s bad ass
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zc7SxqoKL98 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zc7SxqoKL98)
So have you tried vapor smoothing yet? I'm only really interested in working with abs if I can get some smoothing action working in a reliable way.I have not. Despite buying this roll of ABS with the printer long ago, this is the first time I've worked with it. Haven't printed anything but Voron parts and a fan bracket for the Mega. With this size print bed, I probably won't be printing anything but Voron parts for a few weeks, lol.
Try SuperSlicer. I’ve moved over to it and love it.
So have you tried vapor smoothing yet? I'm only really interested in working with abs if I can get some smoothing action working in a reliable way.
It’s pretty much set and forget when it comes to prints now.
I have printed a million of these. Just printed this last night. If you’re a BYOACer who went to ZapCon, you probably have one.
It’s kinda your ZapCon thing...I have printed a million of these. Just printed this last night. If you’re a BYOACer who went to ZapCon, you probably have one.
a lifetime on this site and my legacy is drawing a dickbutt on your zapcon poster :(
banner week here:
MPMD extruder broke - have the new one now. need to install and re-calibrate e-steps.
put a hole in my FEP sheet on my resin printer (didn't notice a bit of cured resin in the vat) - new sheets on order.
my da vinci jr's extruder gears sound like a jabba walker in heat...think it just needs oiling.
but my other MPMD with the upgraded power supply is turning out decent pet-g prints with minimal stringing and my Chiron is still working.
If its always the same spot vertically I would suspect something in the drive train/gearing/belts that does the vertical lifting.Yeah, but I can't find anything on the leadscrews that would cause it. When I watch it happen, it looks like an extrusion issue, but when I feel the filament feeding in, it never slips and the rate doesn't change. All of a sudden there are strings that seem too high to stick, which lead me to the longshot that maybe the ABS is shrinking downward because of the air from the fanbox. Maybe that's the level at which the heat from the bed no longer overcomes it. Longshot I know, but I've tested everything else I could think of. Experimented with speeds, temperatures(both slight improvement), wall thickness, infill %.
banner week here:
MPMD extruder broke - have the new one now. need to install and re-calibrate e-steps.
put a hole in my FEP sheet on my resin printer (didn't notice a bit of cured resin in the vat) - new sheets on order.
my da vinci jr's extruder gears sound like a jabba walker in heat...think it just needs oiling.
but my other MPMD with the upgraded power supply is turning out decent pet-g prints with minimal stringing and my Chiron is still working.
Sometimes I think this is a lousy hobby. :cheers:
My current problem is that the Mega prints ABS well......except for one layer about a half a centimeter off the bed. :hissy:
Same layer every time, every part, even with a full plate of parts. Was convinced it was an extrusion problem.
Rebuilt the extruder, relocated the spool, cleaned the leadscrews, loosened and realigned both the leadscrews and guides.
The last thing I can think of is that there is some weird airflow thing happening with the stock hotend fan box (which is 1/2" lower after installing a V6).
This morning I printed a new fan shroud to pull air through and away. Fingers crossed that it works this evening.
Large Voron parts are warping on the mini, so I may have to break down and try abs juice or print them on the Mega if the bad layer problem can be fixed.
(I've since gone brimless, as breaking off the brims leaves an unsightly white line on the edge. Sanding doesn't take it off. Chamfering with an xacto knife leaves a nice edge, but is tedious.)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210312/8fdcc1f57cba3a8222107a6b401733df.jpg)
That's weird how it does it in the same spot.
Are you printing from octoprint or sdcard? if Sdcard try a different card.
Try a different slicer or a different version of the slicer.
Is your Fan turning on at that layer by chance?
I can't think of anything else other than your z screw is tweaked at that height.
That's weird how it does it in the same spot.
Are you printing from octoprint or sdcard? if Sdcard try a different card.
Try a different slicer or a different version of the slicer.
Is your Fan turning on at that layer by chance?
I can't think of anything else other than your z screw is tweaked at that height.
The new fan setup seems to have done the trick although I violated the main rule of testing; I changed two variables.
The other thing I did was remove the spring steel PEI sheet. It was held on with binder clips, not magnets.
It could have been warping, but I don't think the problem layer would have been even across a whole plate of parts if that were the case.
30% into the Voron blower cover and all seems well. Using hairspray on the Ultrabase. Hoping it's not that hard to remove when finished.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210313/ce4262c0f9ad55772f39c9909e020d9f.jpg)
I replaced the FEP on my resin printer.
if i just arrange prints around the missing part of polarizer things print fine.
a new screen with glass over the polarizer has been ordered.
but, since i really only print minis on it i can work around it until it needs replacement.
can't wait to see some voron's built and running.
Bought the expensive Igus chains ($70). I have generic chains on my 3018cnc which won't lay flat and it bothers me.
So is the resin worth the hassle?
How about for someone who only occasionally prints mins?
The ABS prints on my enclosed mp mini select were turning out short.
Not sure if it is from the ABS shrinking or the printer losing z-steps.
Outside of the enclosure, the z-axis is accurate. I think maybe the z axis stepper was overheating.
I installed a .2mm nozzle thinking I would use it for miniature stuff, but haven't printed anything yet.
Where do you get your miniature models, nitro? (or do you design your own?) Last time I checked, Thingiverse was only good for certain minis.
Love playing Dungeon! with my oldest son, BTW!
Where do you get your miniature models, nitro? (or do you design your own?) Last time I checked, Thingiverse was only good for certain minis.
Love playing Dungeon! with my oldest son, BTW!
DAMN!350mmx350mm
if this thing prints that well you could probably start a business doing prints on commission.
I assume this printer will handle nylon and more exotic materials when enclosed?
It was probably posted before but what is the build volume?
DAMN!350mmx350mm
if this thing prints that well you could probably start a business doing prints on commission.
I assume this printer will handle nylon and more exotic materials when enclosed?
It was probably posted before but what is the build volume?
All the parts seem little compared to how it looks in pictures. It will probably only hit the temperatures I am already getting with the Mega inside a foam insulated box. I am hoping to print 1/16 scale RC bodies in one piece.
I started a 250x250 Voron 1.8ish build using leftovers and parts I already had on hand. That will be the hot one with a hardened nozzle. Loosely following nero3dp's hot boi build.
I don't want to sink any money into that one until the 2.4 is done though. Gonna start working on sub-assemblies this weekend, but the frame won't be here until May.
Went ahead and bought the Voron parts from the Print It Forward program.
Parts have less warp with gyroid infill, but the surface looks weird like all the shaking from doing the gyroid transfered to the outside. It's only visible under bright light at an angle. Anyways, have just a tiny bit of warp on the corners that probably could be fixed with tabs, but I've wasted enough plastic. I deemed them good enough.
Started to organize parts and decided the best way to store them until the frame arrives is to go ahead and build sub-assemblies. Waiting on the frame is actually a good thing, as now I won't rush anything just to get it together.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210328/c0b92324d0adbab10aac988ff7e9b69b.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210328/4694eebfc7c6477ce4188c8a41eac7cf.jpg)
I wonder how they did this: pen, maybe?
Looks like filament, that’s gotta be from a dual extruder printer..Agreed.
I wonder how they did this: pen, maybe?Looks like filament, that’s gotta be from a dual extruder printer..Agreed.
Probably a dual extruder setup based on the very similarly-shaped thin spots in the red at the top and bottom of both O's, the evenly-colored red whisker at the bottom of the V, and the appearance of the other two black parts with red highlights in the original photo.
Scott
By pen, I meant those 3D printing pens that use filament. I've seen some people comment that they use them to fill in gaps.Given how consistant the thin spots on the O's are, I really doubt it was any kind of manually controlled process.
Some of the hardware from boltdepot turned out to be the regular zinc plated instead of black. Not sure that I paid any attention when clicking through the sourcing guide and ordering. It wouldn't bother me except that I've gone to the trouble of doing everything by the book down to black rails and frame. Guess I have a month to replace them or throw in some other silver accents.
Started building my Voron frame last night. Ran into trouble immediately. The M5 roll in Tnuts I bought from the sourcing list are almost impossible to insert into the MISUMI 2020 rails. I say almost because I was able to use a screwdriver and bang it with a lot of force to finally get one in. They slide in from the side just fine but for drop in they are slightly too large. I ordered a different brand from Amazon so will try those out. If you build you may want to test them out first because if you know its an issue you could pre-insert them into the rails before you assemble the frame. I really feel they should be telling folks to do that anyways.
Thanks....I'll look again but was that mentioned in the build guide?
Wow I've got the worst luck. The guy that printed my parts messaged and says he accidentally used old files so he needs to reprint them and it will be 2-3 weeks. Told me to throw away all those parts I showed you guys.
Told me to throw away all those parts I showed you guys.
Looking at them, the power inlet panel is for the separate switch and filtered inlet option.
Did you buy the filtered power inlet, or the regular inlet/switch combo we all use on arcade machines?
(you might need to clarify with him which one you need)
I bought the regular unfiltered one, but am thinking that the center of the back of the machine isn't the most convenient location for the power switch so I may move the switch to the back corner.
EDIT: If you bought everything on the sourcing guide around the same time I did, you probably have both. ;)
Looking at them, the power inlet panel is for the separate switch and filtered inlet option.
Did you buy the filtered power inlet, or the regular inlet/switch combo we all use on arcade machines?
(you might need to clarify with him which one you need)
I bought the regular unfiltered one, but am thinking that the center of the back of the machine isn't the most convenient location for the power switch so I may move the switch to the back corner.
EDIT: If you bought everything on the sourcing guide around the same time I did, you probably have both. ;)
Thanks for catching that I didn't even notice. I'm not even sure the one I bought would fit either one I was going to have to wait and see. I do not believe I bought both because by the time I got to those parts I was following the BOM and only using the sourcing guide to find where to buy. I remember being quite confused by what they wanted me to get for the power inlet. I ended up buying this one and figuring I might need to design and print my own part. I liked this one because it fit my black/red theme.
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/FN9289-10-06/817-1693-ND/3516716 (https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/FN9289-10-06/817-1693-ND/3516716)
I put together the carriage and extruder this morning. No word on the rails which aren't supposed to ship until 5/5.
Yeah. When I ordered the lead time for black pre-drilled/cut extrusion was that far out. Last time I checked, the product page showed 4/15. I tried the online chat to see if I could get my order moved up, but the customer service person didn't respond to the question. I could have had it right away if I'd bought silver/clearcoat.I put together the carriage and extruder this morning. No word on the rails which aren't supposed to ship until 5/5.
I remember from when I joined this thread you were saying that delivery date was so far out. That's why I got surprised my rails arrived so fast. Did you not order from MISUMI?
Yeah I ordered black predrilled cut extrusions as well and I believe I ordered after you did. It shipped within a week. Only difference might be I ordered for 300mm frame but I can't see that being the reason.
Yeah I received my re-printed Voron Print It Forward parts. He didn't do the dual-color thing on the reprint. I also received the MISUMI roll-in t-nuts and they actually work after the previous 2 orders failing to fit. I wasted so much money on t-nuts. And I got my IGUS chains. That was an ordeal to order. First IGUS emails and says they don't have what I want in stock but they have an alternative that bends the opposite way. I said no I either want everything I've ordered or a refund. Then they email that they can backorder the items if I want so I respond how long would a backorder take. They email back and said 4-5 weeks. I replied that is fine and then the darn order shows up in less than 2 weeks. I've had too many other things going on to continue the build yet. Part of the problem is I really have nothing I want to print when its done I just wanted to build one...lol.
Just an Fyi for those who think they will want an octopi server for their new printers.Well, I just ordered one for the hell of it. You got any more information on what I can run on it? Might be good for a little project computer.
I bought a couple of these and they run it swimmingly.
Im using the diet pi os and its built-in installer.
$20 shipped.
Comes in a case, sdcard, and power supply.
Will need a heatsink.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0868WSTXH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_N7CG39KDY1A30Q3QNFJD
Just an Fyi for those who think they will want an octopi server for their new printers.Well, I just ordered one for the hell of it. You got any more information on what I can run on it? Might be good for a little project computer.
I bought a couple of these and they run it swimmingly.
Im using the diet pi os and its built-in installer.
$20 shipped.
Comes in a case, sdcard, and power supply.
Will need a heatsink.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0868WSTXH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_N7CG39KDY1A30Q3QNFJD
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Nice, thanks for the link!!Just an Fyi for those who think they will want an octopi server for their new printers.Well, I just ordered one for the hell of it. You got any more information on what I can run on it? Might be good for a little project computer.
I bought a couple of these and they run it swimmingly.
Im using the diet pi os and its built-in installer.
$20 shipped.
Comes in a case, sdcard, and power supply.
Will need a heatsink.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0868WSTXH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_N7CG39KDY1A30Q3QNFJD
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
for starters, when you get it you will wonder "huh?" because it's actually some kind of network device.
you need to take the case apart to get to rock64.
recallbox runs on it pretty good.
armbian does also.
they have the video drivers.
dietpi does not.
most of the OS images out in the wild are a yr old because this card has been out for almost 5yrs and the pro version is what people are mostly supporting.
it appears to be roughly the same speed as an RPI3 (not the b).
the lack of current support for this board made me decide to just toss diet-pi on it and go with octoprint.
the diet pi distro has A LOT of software designed to make this an appliance.
web servers, media servers, home automation, wifi node, minecraft servers (I might use one to pull double duty for the kids)
too much to list.
https://dietpi.com/dietpi-software.html
The device showed up today, can’t wait to mess with it!Just an Fyi for those who think they will want an octopi server for their new printers.Well, I just ordered one for the hell of it. You got any more information on what I can run on it? Might be good for a little project computer.
I bought a couple of these and they run it swimmingly.
Im using the diet pi os and its built-in installer.
$20 shipped.
Comes in a case, sdcard, and power supply.
Will need a heatsink.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0868WSTXH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_N7CG39KDY1A30Q3QNFJD
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
for starters, when you get it you will wonder "huh?" because it's actually some kind of network device.
you need to take the case apart to get to rock64.
recallbox runs on it pretty good.
armbian does also.
they have the video drivers.
dietpi does not.
most of the OS images out in the wild are a yr old because this card has been out for almost 5yrs and the pro version is what people are mostly supporting.
it appears to be roughly the same speed as an RPI3 (not the b).
the lack of current support for this board made me decide to just toss diet-pi on it and go with octoprint.
the diet pi distro has A LOT of software designed to make this an appliance.
web servers, media servers, home automation, wifi node, minecraft servers (I might use one to pull double duty for the kids)
too much to list.
https://dietpi.com/dietpi-software.html
For those of you with those flexible magnetic beds, are the bases that adhere to the printer plate pretty thin and heat conductive? I am considering getting one, but I have a few glass beds I swap in depending on print need, and don't want to lose use of that. I also saw a person just not adhering it to their bed, just clipped in, is that feasible?
Ok I've got a new question for the peanut gallery..... Has anyone tried polysmooth? I ran across it the other day. Supposedly it's a pla but when you put it in an enclosed space and spray it with alcohol it melts and smooths the print similar to how abs melts with acetone.
// Rotary encoder mount and nut created using thread library found at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31363
// Metric Screw Thread Library
// by Maximilian Karl <karlma@in.tum.de> (2012)
//
//
// only use module thread(P,D,h,step)
// with the parameters:
// P - screw thread pitch
// D - screw thread major diameter
// h - screw thread height
// step - step size in degree
//
module screwthread_triangle(P) {
difference() {
translate([-sqrt(3)/3*P+sqrt(3)/2*P/8,0,0])
rotate([90,0,0])
cylinder(r=sqrt(3)/3*P,h=0.00001,$fn=3,center=true);
translate([0,-P/2,-P/2])
cube([P,P,P]);
}
}
module screwthread_onerotation(P,D_maj,step) {
H = sqrt(3)/2*P;
D_min = D_maj - 5*sqrt(3)/8*P;
for(i=[0:step:360-step])
hull()
for(j = [0,step])
rotate([0,0,(i+j)])
translate([D_maj/2,0,(i+j)/360*P])
screwthread_triangle(P);
translate([0,0,P/2])
cylinder(r=D_min/2,h=2*P,$fn=360/step,center=true);
}
module thread(P,D,h,step) {
for(i=[0:h/P])
translate([0,0,i*P])
screwthread_onerotation(P,D,step);
}
//
////////////////////////////////////////////
//
// Variables:
//
////////////////////////////////////////////
ThreadPitch = 1; // Screw thread pitch
ThreadMajorDiameter = 49; // Screw thread major diameter
ThreadedRodHeight = 23.8; // Threaded rod height
ThreadStep = 2; // Thread step size in degrees
PlateThick = 2.4; // Mount plate/bezel thickness
BezelTopDia = 50; // Bezel top diameter
BezelBottomDia = 55; // Bezel bottom diameter
BezelCenterHole = 21; // Bezel center hole
ScrewHoleBottom = 3.45; // Bottom of screw hole diameter
ScrewHoleTop = 3.45; // Top of screw hole diameter, for non-countersunk screws use same value as ScrewHoleBottom
ScrewDistance = 15; // Distance from center of shaft to center of screw hole, usually 14 or 15
CenterCylinder = 40; // Center cylinder diameter
NutDiameter = 64; // Nut diameter (point-to-point)
NutThickness = 4; // Nut thickness
WiggleRoom = 1.02; // Scale multiplier for threaded rod X-axis and Y-axis that allows nut to turn easier
NutOffsetX = 70; // X-axis offset distance of nut
//
// Number of fragments (polygon sides) used to render a full circle.
$fn = 180; // Default = 180 Typical range = 6 - 360
// 6 will render a circular hole as a hexagon, 8 will render a circular hole as an octagon.
// Lower the number for faster rendering, raise the number for smoother rendering.
//
////////////////////////////////////////////
//
// Make the part:
//
////////////////////////////////////////////
// Mount
// Bezel/mount plate minus screw holes and center hole
difference() {
translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight + (PlateThick/2)])
cylinder (PlateThick, d1=BezelBottomDia, d2=BezelTopDia,center=true); // Bezel/mount plate
translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight + (PlateThick/2)])
rotate ([0, 0, 0])
translate ([ScrewDistance, 0, 0])
cylinder (PlateThick + 0.01, d1=ScrewHoleBottom, d2=ScrewHoleTop,center=true); // Screw hole 1
translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight + (PlateThick/2)])
rotate ([0, 0, 120])
translate ([ScrewDistance, 0, 0])
cylinder (PlateThick + 0.01, d1=ScrewHoleBottom, d2=ScrewHoleTop,center=true); // Screw hole 2
translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight + (PlateThick/2)])
rotate ([0, 0, 240])
translate ([ScrewDistance, 0, 0])
cylinder (PlateThick + 0.01, d1=ScrewHoleBottom, d2=ScrewHoleTop,center=true); // Screw hole 3
translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight + (PlateThick/2)])
cylinder (PlateThick + 0.1, d=BezelCenterHole,center=true); // Center hole
} // End bezel/mount plate minus screw holes and center hole
//
// Threaded rod minus center cylinder and trim top
difference() {
translate ([0, 0, ThreadPitch/2])
thread(ThreadPitch, ThreadMajorDiameter, ThreadedRodHeight, ThreadStep); // Threaded rod
translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight/2])
cylinder (ThreadedRodHeight + 20, d=CenterCylinder,center=true); // Center cylinder
translate ([0, 0, (ThreadedRodHeight * 1.5) + 0.01])
cube([ThreadMajorDiameter + 20, ThreadMajorDiameter + 20, ThreadedRodHeight], center=true); // Trim top
} // End threaded rod minus center cylinder and trim top
//
// Nut
difference() { // Nut body minus threaded rod
hull() { // Nut Body
translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, NutThickness/2])
rotate ([0, 0, 0])
translate ([NutDiameter/2, 0, 0])
cylinder (NutThickness, d = 0.01, center=true);
translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, NutThickness/2])
rotate ([0, 0, 60])
translate ([NutDiameter/2, 0, 0])
cylinder (NutThickness, d = 0.01, center=true);
translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, NutThickness/2])
rotate ([0, 0, 120])
translate ([NutDiameter/2, 0, 0])
cylinder (NutThickness, d = 0.01, center=true);
translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, NutThickness/2])
rotate ([0, 0, 180])
translate ([NutDiameter/2, 0, 0])
cylinder (NutThickness, d = 0.01, center=true);
translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, NutThickness/2])
rotate ([0, 0, 240])
translate ([NutDiameter/2, 0, 0])
cylinder (NutThickness, d = 0.01, center=true);
translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, NutThickness/2])
rotate ([0, 0, 300])
translate ([NutDiameter/2, 0, 0])
cylinder (NutThickness, d = 0.01, center=true);
} // End nut body
//
translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, - ThreadPitch])
scale([WiggleRoom, WiggleRoom, 1])
thread(ThreadPitch, ThreadMajorDiameter, ThreadedRodHeight, ThreadStep); // Threaded rod
//
} // End nut body minus threaded rod
//
// Rotary encoder mount and nut created using thread library found at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31363
// Metric Screw Thread Library
// by Maximilian Karl <karlma@in.tum.de> (2012)
//
//
// only use module thread(P,D,h,step)
// with the parameters:
// P - screw thread pitch
// D - screw thread major diameter
// h - screw thread height
// step - step size in degree
//
module screwthread_triangle(P) {
difference() {
translate([-sqrt(3)/3*P+sqrt(3)/2*P/8,0,0])
rotate([90,0,0])
cylinder(r=sqrt(3)/3*P,h=0.00001,$fn=3,center=true);
translate([0,-P/2,-P/2])
cube([P,P,P]);
}
}
module screwthread_onerotation(P,D_maj,step) {
H = sqrt(3)/2*P;
D_min = D_maj - 5*sqrt(3)/8*P;
for(i=[0:step:360-step])
hull()
for(j = [0,step])
rotate([0,0,(i+j)])
translate([D_maj/2,0,(i+j)/360*P])
screwthread_triangle(P);
translate([0,0,P/2])
cylinder(r=D_min/2,h=2*P,$fn=360/step,center=true);
}
module thread(P,D,h,step) {
for(i=[0:h/P])
translate([0,0,i*P])
screwthread_onerotation(P,D,step);
}
//
////////////////////////////////////////////
//
// Variables:
//
////////////////////////////////////////////
ThreadPitch = 1; // Screw thread pitch
ThreadMajorDiameter = 49; // Screw thread major diameter
ThreadedRodHeight = 23.8; // Threaded rod height
ThreadStep = 2; // Thread step size in degrees
PlateThick = 2.4; // Mount plate/bezel thickness
Roundover = 2.2; // Bezel roundover, must be less than PlateThick
BezelDia = 55; // Bezel diameter
BezelCenterHole = 21; // Bezel center hole
ScrewHoleBottom = 3.45; // Bottom of screw hole diameter
ScrewHoleTop = 3.45; // Top of screw hole diameter, for non-countersunk screws use same value as ScrewHoleBottom
ScrewDistance = 15; // Distance from center of shaft to center of screw hole, usually 14 or 15
CenterCylinder = 40; // Center cylinder diameter
NutDiameter = 64; // Nut diameter (point-to-point)
NutThickness = 4; // Nut thickness
WiggleRoom = 1.02; // Scale multiplier for threaded rod X-axis and Y-axis that allows nut to turn easier
NutOffsetX = 70; // X-axis offset distance of nut
//
// Number of fragments (polygon sides) used to render a full circle.
$fn = 180; // Default = 180 Typical range = 6 - 360
// 6 will render a circular hole as a hexagon, 8 will render a circular hole as an octagon.
// Lower the number for faster rendering, raise the number for smoother rendering.
//
////////////////////////////////////////////
//
// Make the part:
//
////////////////////////////////////////////
// Mount
// Bezel/mount plate minus screw holes and center hole
difference() {
minkowski() // Apply roundover to cylinder
{
translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight])
cylinder(d=(BezelDia)-(Roundover*2),h=(PlateThick) - Roundover); // Bezel/mount plate body
sphere(r=Roundover); // Roundover
}
translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight/2])
cube([BezelDia + 20, BezelDia + 20, ThreadedRodHeight], center=true); // Trim bottom of bezel/mount plate body
translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight + (PlateThick/2)])
rotate ([0, 0, 0])
translate ([ScrewDistance, 0, 0])
cylinder (PlateThick + 0.01, d1=ScrewHoleBottom, d2=ScrewHoleTop,center=true); // Screw hole 1
translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight + (PlateThick/2)])
rotate ([0, 0, 120])
translate ([ScrewDistance, 0, 0])
cylinder (PlateThick + 0.01, d1=ScrewHoleBottom, d2=ScrewHoleTop,center=true); // Screw hole 2
translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight + (PlateThick/2)])
rotate ([0, 0, 240])
translate ([ScrewDistance, 0, 0])
cylinder (PlateThick + 0.01, d1=ScrewHoleBottom, d2=ScrewHoleTop,center=true); // Screw hole 3
translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight + (PlateThick/2)])
cylinder (PlateThick + 0.1, d=BezelCenterHole,center=true); // Center hole
} // End bezel/mount plate minus screw holes and center hole
//
// Threaded rod minus center cylinder and trim top
difference() {
translate ([0, 0, ThreadPitch/2])
thread(ThreadPitch, ThreadMajorDiameter, ThreadedRodHeight, ThreadStep); // Threaded rod
translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight/2])
cylinder (ThreadedRodHeight + 20, d=CenterCylinder,center=true); // Center cylinder
translate ([0, 0, (ThreadedRodHeight * 1.5) + 0.01])
cube([ThreadMajorDiameter + 20, ThreadMajorDiameter + 20, ThreadedRodHeight], center=true); // Trim top
} // End threaded rod minus center cylinder and trim top
//
// Nut
difference() { // Nut body minus threaded rod
hull() { // Nut Body
translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, NutThickness/2])
rotate ([0, 0, 0])
translate ([NutDiameter/2, 0, 0])
cylinder (NutThickness, d = 0.01, center=true);
translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, NutThickness/2])
rotate ([0, 0, 60])
translate ([NutDiameter/2, 0, 0])
cylinder (NutThickness, d = 0.01, center=true);
translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, NutThickness/2])
rotate ([0, 0, 120])
translate ([NutDiameter/2, 0, 0])
cylinder (NutThickness, d = 0.01, center=true);
translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, NutThickness/2])
rotate ([0, 0, 180])
translate ([NutDiameter/2, 0, 0])
cylinder (NutThickness, d = 0.01, center=true);
translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, NutThickness/2])
rotate ([0, 0, 240])
translate ([NutDiameter/2, 0, 0])
cylinder (NutThickness, d = 0.01, center=true);
translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, NutThickness/2])
rotate ([0, 0, 300])
translate ([NutDiameter/2, 0, 0])
cylinder (NutThickness, d = 0.01, center=true);
} // End nut body
//
translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, - ThreadPitch])
scale([WiggleRoom, WiggleRoom, 1])
thread(ThreadPitch, ThreadMajorDiameter, ThreadedRodHeight, ThreadStep); // Threaded rod
//
} // End nut body minus threaded rod
//
I've gone back a few pages and I'm not seeing anything about it, so I feel safe to ask how you were able to mount those components on what appears to be the bottom of this? I'm not seeing obvious connections for some rail-mounting system, so I'm suspecting magnets. Thinking this could be an effective way to mount items inside an MDF cabinet.
...are all mounted to those two silver DIN rails.
...are all mounted to those two silver DIN rails.
Thanks for the info. Apologies if there is a better place to ask this. How are the components (PCBs etc.) attached to the DIN rail?
Gil, how is your build going? (or how did it go if already completed)
Gil, how is your build going? (or how did it go if already completed)
I got all the parts now I've lost interest in building it.
Installed software on the Voron today. It wasn't that bad, but I was annoyed by having to install and learn a bunch of tools that weren't already in my wheelhouse. If you are already familiar with Pi and networking tools to manipulate files on the Pi then it will go very quickly.Nice! I saw my friend’s Voron in person yesterday - it’s an impressive machine
I completed all the various calibrations and tunings without incident until the last friggin' one. All that was left to do was calculate e-steps, probably the easiest thing. Extruder makes a grinding noise, but does not move filament. Turning the big gear with my finger moves filament. Probably something stupid like the grub screw on the motor....
Done for today. Next time it should be laying down plastic.
But what were layer lines?Huh? It's a low res pic. The layer lines are pretty smooth, but are also camouflaged by some vertical artifacts going on. Not sure if the belts need retightened already or if it has something to do with seeing through the clear petg.
But what were layer lines?Huh? It's a low res pic. The layer lines are pretty smooth, but are also camouflaged by some vertical artifacts going on. Not sure if the belts need retightened already or if it has something to do with seeing through the clear petg.
I bought an accelerometer to tune for resonances, but got tired of working on the thing and having never printed anything on it.
First large format print complete (clear petg). Not as oem looking as the design in my head, but it got done. I did concentric infill at just under 100% hoping it would come out clearer. It isn't clear, but it's solid as a rock. Someday I'll graduate from Tinkercad to Fusion.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210630/19894284fb9fcc0d8c42b703838ed878.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210630/6a3530be53bbbf1410f4e0f37249bc9b.jpg)
First large format print complete (clear petg). Not as oem looking as the design in my head, but it got done. I did concentric infill at just under 100% hoping it would come out clearer. It isn't clear, but it's solid as a rock. Someday I'll graduate from Tinkercad to Fusion.I respect Wine-in-a-box ready to go in the fridge. :cheers: :lol
does anyone else keep an assortment of hardware for assembling projects?I use a variety of storage systems.
what do you store them in?
I'm thinking now a bunch of these might work for me.Those are better for keeping small parts separate than the 24 compartment one, but are a bit more expensive and not as flexible. YMMV.
Do those ---smurfing--- printers ever work?
I realize that you gents are early adopters of this stuff and it is still evolving, but given tech pace these days one would assume it would be farther along in ease of setup/use/reliability.The tech isn't that new. The reason it exploded in recent years is that the patent for the process expired. The heated chamber patent expired just recently.
It all kind of reminds me of my ex-wife.
I realize that you gents are early adopters of this stuff and it is still evolving, but given tech pace these days one would assume it would be farther along in ease of setup/use/reliability.
Do those ---smurfing--- printers ever work?
The Voron 2.4 has actually not had any issues other than stinking up the house.
Still planning to build a Voron, but a much bigger purchase took the funds I had set aside for it. I still wanted a upgraded experience, so I took the plunge and ordered a Prusa MK3S+ kit. I’ll use that to print my Voron parts. I’ve had great fun with the Anet, but I’ve taken it as far as it can go.The good thing with Prusa is that a lot of the guesswork with materials is removed.
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True. I just think the Voron looks cool, looks fun to build, plus I like the increased build size.Still planning to build a Voron, but a much bigger purchase took the funds I had set aside for it. I still wanted a upgraded experience, so I took the plunge and ordered a Prusa MK3S+ kit. I’ll use that to print my Voron parts. I’ve had great fun with the Anet, but I’ve taken it as far as it can go.The good thing with Prusa is that a lot of the guesswork with materials is removed.
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Honestly if I already had a Prusa, I would invest in the multi material attachment instead of building a Voron. With an enclosure and dissolvable support material, it could print just about anything.
Still planning to build a Voron, but a much bigger purchase took the funds I had set aside for it. I still wanted a upgraded experience, so I took the plunge and ordered a Prusa MK3S+ kit. I’ll use that to print my Voron parts. I’ve had great fun with the Anet, but I’ve taken it as far as it can go.The good thing with Prusa is that a lot of the guesswork with materials is removed.
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Honestly if I already had a Prusa, I would invest in the multi material attachment instead of building a Voron. With an enclosure and dissolvable support material, it could print just about anything.
Honestly, Bobby, I’ve printed a lot of items that have helped out in this hobby.
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ok. 3d printer status report.
mini-delta - over temp errors. fixed. was a botched octoprint update. i'm printing ABS again without issues and it looks fantastic.
Chiron - was having extrusion issues, replaced extruder...still have issues and getting clogs. checked heat block, it's not as hot as the printer reads. in fact it's only giving me 200 and some change in C when it should of been 230C.
soo i'm replacing the thermister.
on deck:
xyz Jr. needs a new PTFE connector.
anycubic photon - new screen. had it for 3 days. 3 days and dropped the damn build plate into the vat damaging the fep and the screen while taking it off. :banghead:
other monoprice mini - new extruder and e-step calibration.
:cheers:
Mine were printing fine, so I had to change something. I built this supposedly fast Voron 2.4, but still print at 60mm/s so things look nice.
Swapped to a high flow dragon hotend and .6 nozzle as a way of working toward faster print times. I am still in the testing for best slicer settings stage.
The eventual plan is to have it dialed in for one brand of ASA and then print almost exclusively in that.
I bought a cheap beat-up jon boat and hope to print a bunch of stuff out of ASA for it; rod holders, drink holder, battery panel, fish finder mount.
Can't find the right size grease bearing cap for the trailer, so will be giving that a go in ABS or Tough Poly.
I was actually researching the dragon and if it was worth the $$4 compared to a v6 with volcano and found this.
https://3dprintbeginner.com/dragon-hotend-vs-copperhead-v6/#:~:text=As%20you%20can%20see%20from,40mm%20fan%20with%20higher%20airflow.
I have a new V6 hotend for a printer project i never did wired for 12v (chiron is 24) but i also have plenty of spare heaters along with volcano heat blocks so i'm thinking i'll go that route then purchase the copper heatbreak.
just need to make sure my cooling is adequate for the heatsink.
Is ASA easier to print than ABS?
i think you are the first person i've seen mention it online.
I will have to try ASA when i get an enclosure.
what wattage is your hotend heater on the voron?
50w?
I was going to build an enclosure on my old workbench in the basement for all my printers.Damn! THAT’S an enclosure, my friend!
it's cold down there so i need one.
probably with a heat source.
then i saw this.
https://www.amazon.com/Green-House-HC-4202-Greenhouse-Indoor-Shelves-Grow/dp/B01GDVVZY4/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1Y8DCTDTWIA9P&keywords=green+house&qid=1645888424&sprefix=green+house%2Caps%2C112&sr=8-6
(https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81OvQjIhcYL._AC_SL1500_.jpg)
I think a properly hung heat lamp with those interlocking foam pads as the floor should do the trick.
bad idea, good idea?
I can't build an enclosure for just one printer for that price and i have the room.
I make 3d models of stuff - is it as easy as converting to a proprietary format and then pushing a button (after what seems to be the scariest part, setting it up?)It's a little more complicated than that, but not much. ;D
Likely nothing more than 10" in any one direction.The larger the print bed, the harder it is to keep it flat and leveled.
lewd cookie cutters:lol
Convert an image to DXF for OpenSCAD
1. Prep the image in MSPaint.
2. Open Inkscape.
3. File -- Document Properties (Shift+Ctrl+D)
==> Set document size, units = mm
4. View -- Zoom -- Page
5. File -- Import
==> Import image into inkscape
6. Select image (resizing arrows visible)
7. Path -- Trace Bitmap (Shift+Alt+B)
Adjust settings. When preview looks good, click OK then close the "Trace Bitmap" window.
8. Select then delete the original image, leaving the traced path.
9. Clean up the path as desired.
10. Position and scale image
(Ctrl+Click+Drag Corner to maintain ratio _or_ enter the position/size info via the Inkscape toolbar)
11. Select everything (Ctrl+A) and ungroup all groups. (Ctrl+Shift+G)
12. Path -- Object to path (Ctrl+Shift+C)
==> Converts everything into paths.
13. Ungroup all groups again. (Ctrl+Shift+G)
14. Path -- Union
15. Open the layer window (Ctrl+Shift+L), create new layer, name the new layer. i.e. Layername
16. Cut/paste the paths onto the new layer.
17. Delete the old layer.
18. File -- Save
19. File -- Save as and select “OpenSCAD DXF Output” as the file type.
20. SCAD code
translate([X, Y, Z])
linear_extrude(height = 2, convexity = 10)
import(file = "Filename.dxf", layer="Layername");
Hi! I'm suddenly very interested in a 3d printer. Any suggestions? I would like to print things such as camera hot shoe mounts, lewd cookie cutters, microphone clips, cell phone stands... Likely nothing more than 10" in any one direction. I started looking at them but I honestly don't even know enough about it to make a decision. I make 3d models of stuff - is it as easy as converting to a proprietary format and then pushing a button (after what seems to be the scariest part, setting it up?)
For a heated chamber I don't think it would be anywhere near as good as a small box around the printer. It may help as far as getting up to a normal room temperature in a cold basement, but is not going to get as hot as a small enclosure. I printed my Voron 2.4 parts on an anycubic mega with a box made out of a $15 sheet of foamboard insulation over the top of it. Probably paid another $5 for the tape to hold it together. Temps got up to and stayed around 50. I repurposed the same pieces to insulate the Voron 1.8 and that one hovers around 65, but has touched 70.
I do think it would be good for fume mittigation. After fiddling around with fans ducts on the 2.4 (which cools the chamber), I came to the conclusion that it would be better to have the printer chamber sealed and then have a larger enclosure or fume hood around it with negative pressure to pull the fumes out. I plan to build something, but the 2.4 is so friggin big (350mm build plate) that it will be cumbersome. The greenhouse would be nice If I had more space. It's a reasonable option though. I kind of like the 250mm 1.8 more now. It would fit in a resonably sized cabinet which could be vented to outside.
I model in blender mostly, I just checked and it does indeed export the STL format. If I were to print something bigger than my printer would allow, do the models glue together easily?
A little bunker made of insulation is a great idea!
If I were to print something bigger than my printer would allow, do the models glue together easily?You can glue flat surfaces, but sometimes it's easier to use alignment posts/holes for non-hollow parts or alignment blocks and safety wire (or zip ties) for thin hollow parts like in this 13" tall TARDIS doorbell cover remixed from a parametric OpenSCAD model found here (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13109) on Thingiverse.
If I were to print something bigger than my printer would allow, do the models glue together easily?You can glue flat surfaces, but sometimes it's easier to use alignment posts/holes for non-hollow parts or alignment blocks and safety wire (or zip ties) for thin hollow parts like in this 13" tall TARDIS doorbell cover remixed from a parametric OpenSCAD model found here (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13109) on Thingiverse.
Click on photos for full-size view.
[img width=500]http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=390281;image[img]
You can clearly see the split here, but it's very hard to see with normal lighting and viewing angles.
[img width=500]http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=390282;image[img]
[img width=500]http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=390283;image[img]
Interior view -- don't get your hopes up, this one isn't bigger on the inside than it is on the outside. :lol
[img width=500]http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=390284;image[img]
Closeup showing the alignment blocks and 0.032" safety wire.
[img width=500]http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=390285;image[img]
Scott
If I were to print something bigger than my printer would allow, do the models glue together easily?You can glue flat surfaces, but sometimes it's easier to use alignment posts/holes for non-hollow parts or alignment blocks and safety wire (or zip ties) for thin hollow parts like in this 13" tall TARDIS doorbell cover remixed from a parametric OpenSCAD model found here (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13109) on Thingiverse.
Click on photos for full-size view.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=390281;image)
You can clearly see the split here, but it's very hard to see with normal lighting and viewing angles.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=390282;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=390283;image)
Interior view -- don't get your hopes up, this one isn't bigger on the inside than it is on the outside. :lol
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=390284;image)
Closeup showing the alignment blocks and 0.032" safety wire.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=390285;image)
Scott
This is awesome.Thanks. ;D
Combo of that/those and good alignment holes/posts...?I thought those three alignment block pairs would be enough to keep everything perfectly aligned. :embarassed:
Gonna be a fun weekend!
Gonna be a fun weekend!
Now I can print you a better quality one.QuoteGonna be a fun weekend!
Is there a sex doll in that box?
Yeah, I cut my teeth on my Anet A8, which initially got recommended here. It’s been a fun machine to tinker with. Last year converted into an aluminum frame, so now it’s an AM8. It’s a solid little workhorse, but I want to be able to print some more exotic filaments, and I want a boost in quality/resolution, so I took the plunge.Gonna be a fun weekend!
Congrats! I'm sure you'll have fun with it. When it's all together, let us know if it "just works" like they claim :).
I love the marketing around these things. Two of my printers "just worked"... until they didn't anymore. Finally fixed the Zortrax after being dead for two years with little clue as to what went south. Turns out that the thing ate one of it's own wires deep inside of a protective sleeve where it couldn't be seen, after only around 150 hours. But credit where credit is due, once I fixed the wire it's still making PERFECT parts. The other (a little UP! unit), while not inexpensive and a small build volume, was always a trooper. There's thousands of hours on it and many, many parts made. Still works, but the heating element wires broke (can't re-attach with regular solder...it melts) and the nozzle/extruder tube is hopelessly plugged. Nothing time and money won't fix, but I don't need it right now.
The other two, well, I don't like to think about them too much. Let's just say you made a wise decision by purchasing a printer with a decent record of support and a vibrant community. Clone printers from unknown Chinese companies should be avoided like the COOF. I have a 50lb "red star" monster with a crazy build quality that I don't think I ever got a good print out of. By time I finally reached out to the company to try to get it's brain upgraded enough to be usable, they had already moved on to different design without making any improvements to the firmware to make it usable. It's a nice foundation for DIY and should be pretty amazing with enough tinkering, but for what it cost it should have done as well as the Zortrax. I'll be attempting a brain transplant on that one soon, so wish me luck (I'll need it ).
Another clone (if you can really call it that...I'll lay money that even Crealitys are crapped out of the same Chinese factory) was a Labists. Looked nice, easy to set up, but terrible problems. Would often die in the middle of a print by either backing the filament all the way out for no reason or sitting in the middle of it's own giant glob of melted filth, while stuttering like it was having a seizure. The extruder never seemed to get hot enough so it was constantly grinding filament, etc. Upgraded the firmware, but still the same issues and no fix in sight from the company. Finally re-built the hot-end with a cheap aftermarket for a different printer (even bought spares) and at least that part was finally doing it's job, but still had the random spazz-out. But one day I made the mistake of trying to clear melted plastic from around the heater and saw some sparks and lost the display. Not one of the half-dozen fuses on the mainboard blew, but the processor fried and was heating the regulator up way high. Waiting now on a mainboard from an Anet (which is a virtually identical printer with an absolutely identical mainboard...outside of the firmware) to attempt a transplant/personality change. I never considered that the touchscreen might have it's own firmware which may not be compatible. Guess I'll find out when it gets here.
But in the meantime, I just got in a Creality Ender 3 V2 yesterday, which is waiting for me to put it together. The bed sensor should arrive today. This one gives me hope, due to the huge community, aftermarket support and decent company reputation. Somehow, I get the feeling that it will soon be dashed, but that's just experience talking.
I have enough printers for a nice little farm, but at the moment it's more like a 3D printing slum. My new year's resolution is to whip these things into submission, even it it kills me (it well may).
Thanks for letting rant. I feel better now :laugh2:
Yeah, I cut my teeth on my Anet A8, which initially got recommended here. It’s been a fun machine to tinker with. Last year converted into an aluminum frame, so now it’s an AM8. It’s a solid little workhorse, but I want to be able to print some more exotic filaments, and I want a boost in quality/resolution, so I took the plunge.
I have a few friends who have Prusas, Including one who I consider quite printing guru. She’s been a great resource for me over the last year’s, and I trust her opinion.
Heh - I’d say easily 60% The things I printed on my Anet were improvements or hacks for the original machine. I’ve spent a lot more than original $160 shipped I paid on Banggood for the original.Yeah, I cut my teeth on my Anet A8, which initially got recommended here. It’s been a fun machine to tinker with. Last year converted into an aluminum frame, so now it’s an AM8. It’s a solid little workhorse, but I want to be able to print some more exotic filaments, and I want a boost in quality/resolution, so I took the plunge.
I have a few friends who have Prusas, Including one who I consider quite printing guru. She’s been a great resource for me over the last year’s, and I trust her opinion.
Wild. Didn't even know they made an acrylic one. I'm sure it's much more stable now. My monsters are welded steel enclosures and judging from the quality the Zortrax puts out, I think that extra stability makes a big difference in the output. It's nice that your new machine has all the frills (bed leveling, all-metal hot-end, etc.) They'll come in handy when you start playing with the tricky stuff.
With too many unfortunate exceptions, paying more usually gets better working and more reliable machines that tend to be around for the long haul. Research and a brain to pick/shoulder to cry on can make all the difference in the world with these things. Sounds like you have that covered. I sure didn't when I started out and paid for it dearly :)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220302/e71b7de0a86931a89a2428ef3422a24e.jpg)
Gonna be a fun weekend!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I love the marketing around these things.
But one day I made the mistake of trying to clear melted plastic from around the heater and saw some sparks and lost the display. Not one of the half-dozen fuses on the mainboard blew, but the processor fried and was heating the regulator up way high. Waiting now on a mainboard from an Anet (which is a virtually identical printer with an absolutely identical mainboard...outside of the firmware) to attempt a transplant/personality change. I never considered that the touchscreen might have it's own firmware which may not be compatible. Guess I'll find out when it gets here.
So which one of you can I talk into making an STL for me? Here’s some crude mock-ups on cardboard.Assuming that the adapter is just a flat plate, it looks pretty straight-forward -- a cube for the adapter body minus two screw hole cylinders, a cube for the upper right corner notch, and a notch on the bottom.
I think with some slight trimming of the original case, this adapter, some epoxy to affix it to the case, and two new screw holes through the back, it could be made to work.Are you planning to epoxy the adapter to the front of the case, the back of the case, or both?
Plate will definitely have to be glued to the front cover because screws will run from the outside of the case into the plate to hold it all together.Are you sure about that?
New holes will have to be drilled in the back cover.Agreed.
Cartridge pcb will need to sit on posts sticking out from the plate.
Maybe worth taking a looking at these models?Someone might be able to remix the cart shell parts, but how well will the finish and strength of a 3d printed shell compare to the injection molded originals. ::)
1 - the Sega PCB holes are higher than the EA PCB holes, so any new drilled holes will clear the cartridge slot.The old screws are in a recess, but the new screws would stick out.
2 - That gets the parts mounted to each other, but doesn't hold the front cover on.Oops. I confused the top alignment posts in your pics with screw posts :embarassed:
. . .
4 - There aren't "top screws" on an EA shell (or sega shell). Both shells use two screws through the back, through the PCB, and into standoffs molded into the front piece.
Can I just mail you two different carts and you take a look?That would be very useful, assuming we can come up with a viable plan for the screws on this cart mod. :cheers:
1 - the Sega PCB holes are higher than the EA PCB holes, so any new drilled holes will clear the cartridge slot.
2 - That gets the parts mounted to each other, but doesn't hold the front cover on.
3 - Old mounting posts will have to be trimmed slightly. They sit lower than the sega posts and fit through the EA pcbs. You can't close the cartridge shell with a sega PCB in there.
4 - There aren't "top screws" on an EA shell (or sega shell). Both shells use two screws through the back, through the PCB, and into standoffs molded into the front piece.
Hm, yeah that would definitely work. I was trying to avoid putting holes in the front, but it would need a new label anyway.
Don't need another hobby-
Don't need another hobby-
Don't need another hobby-
Man, oh man, I am loving the M600 command….
/img]
I don’t look at it as a hobby so much as a tool. In 20 years, these things will be standard in any new home, watch.....a tool that's always one upgrade away from being better, but somehow will always be short of what you'd like it to be.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I don’t look at it as a hobby so much as a tool. In 20 years, these things will be standard in any new home, watch.
That’s why I’m thinking it will be about 20 years down the road. The ease of use isn’t there yet, but my experience with the Prusa shows it’s well on the way.I don’t look at it as a hobby so much as a tool. In 20 years, these things will be standard in any new home, watch.
As user-friendly as modeling tools have become, there's likely to still be a broad swath of people who won't have the mechanical ability, patience or interest in learning, to actually make a scenario like that very likely. Heck, most home wiring and plumbing is pretty simple and has been for quite a long time, yet electricians and plumbers always seem to have plenty of work at the prices they demand.
As complicated as these machines can be in use and maintenance, I just don't see it. Now, if someone comes up with a water washable. food-safe resin one could strike with a hammer or screw into without worry of it breaking, an SLA printer with modular, plug-in replacement parts from Home Depot and AI-driven modeling software capable of creating models from natural-speech descriptions, I might say "maybe" :)
That’s why I’m thinking it will be about 20 years down the road. The ease of use isn’t there yet, but my experience with the Prusa shows it’s well on the way.I don’t look at it as a hobby so much as a tool. In 20 years, these things will be standard in any new home, watch.
As user-friendly as modeling tools have become, there's likely to still be a broad swath of people who won't have the mechanical ability, patience or interest in learning, to actually make a scenario like that very likely. Heck, most home wiring and plumbing is pretty simple and has been for quite a long time, yet electricians and plumbers always seem to have plenty of work at the prices they demand.
As complicated as these machines can be in use and maintenance, I just don't see it. Now, if someone comes up with a water washable. food-safe resin one could strike with a hammer or screw into without worry of it breaking, an SLA printer with modular, plug-in replacement parts from Home Depot and AI-driven modeling software capable of creating models from natural-speech descriptions, I might say "maybe" :)
I used to recommend to people to get a cheap Chinese printer to learn about 3D printing. Not anymore. I’m going to tell them to open their wallet and invest in a Prusa.
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You’d be surprised how many 3-8 graders are learning to create and print objects in school due to STEM programs. That’s why I say 20 years.That’s why I’m thinking it will be about 20 years down the road. The ease of use isn’t there yet, but my experience with the Prusa shows it’s well on the way.I don’t look at it as a hobby so much as a tool. In 20 years, these things will be standard in any new home, watch.
As user-friendly as modeling tools have become, there's likely to still be a broad swath of people who won't have the mechanical ability, patience or interest in learning, to actually make a scenario like that very likely. Heck, most home wiring and plumbing is pretty simple and has been for quite a long time, yet electricians and plumbers always seem to have plenty of work at the prices they demand.
As complicated as these machines can be in use and maintenance, I just don't see it. Now, if someone comes up with a water washable. food-safe resin one could strike with a hammer or screw into without worry of it breaking, an SLA printer with modular, plug-in replacement parts from Home Depot and AI-driven modeling software capable of creating models from natural-speech descriptions, I might say "maybe" :)
I used to recommend to people to get a cheap Chinese printer to learn about 3D printing. Not anymore. I’m going to tell them to open their wallet and invest in a Prusa.
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I can appreciate your enthusiasm for the discipline yotsuya! but I suspect RandyT is correct as regards the populace in general.
All of you posting here are an anomaly, certainly as regards intellect, interest, discpline, etc.
The bread and circuses crew will never get to where you are until a 3d printer works like a microwave.
Most people couldn't bother to read a package or even pay attention to what was going on once they pressed 'Start' , so now even such a mindless machine as a microwave has a 'Popcorn' button.
Scratch that even.
Never mind everything I wrote after the word 'are.'
That’s why I’m thinking it will be about 20 years down the road. The ease of use isn’t there yet, but my experience with the Prusa shows it’s well on the way.I don’t look at it as a hobby so much as a tool. In 20 years, these things will be standard in any new home, watch.
As user-friendly as modeling tools have become, there's likely to still be a broad swath of people who won't have the mechanical ability, patience or interest in learning, to actually make a scenario like that very likely. Heck, most home wiring and plumbing is pretty simple and has been for quite a long time, yet electricians and plumbers always seem to have plenty of work at the prices they demand.
As complicated as these machines can be in use and maintenance, I just don't see it. Now, if someone comes up with a water washable. food-safe resin one could strike with a hammer or screw into without worry of it breaking, an SLA printer with modular, plug-in replacement parts from Home Depot and AI-driven modeling software capable of creating models from natural-speech descriptions, I might say "maybe" :)
I used to recommend to people to get a cheap Chinese printer to learn about 3D printing. Not anymore. I’m going to tell them to open their wallet and invest in a Prusa.
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I guess even microwaves and toasters break and stop working, but really not nearly at the frequency of most 3d printers. I wonder how ubiquitous microwaves would be if they suddenly stopped working because you tried heating the wrong food or set the time incorrectly. Consumers tend to expect reliability from appliances which cost more than a couple hundred dollars and since what we are talking about are using precision motion- control mechanical components, the cost is in line with refrigerators, washing machines and stoves, which usually last a couple of decades with constant use. I.e. unless something changes drastically, it'll be a hard sell to "normies".
That’s why I’ve clearly stated I think it’ll be about two decades down the road. Come on, you know that technology is constantly improving. E3D has just come out with a nozzle that you can change with your fingers, no tools or fear of burning yourself. Technology advancements and improvements like that will benefit consumers 20 years from now.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=post;topic=152421.1200;last_msg=1753359#postmodify
compared to my chiron the vyper feels like cheating.
i just finished a 54 hour print.
no issues.
with a cura profile off the FB group.
i'd recommend this printer to first timers.
Remember there was a time when the only place you could find a computer was a college campus? Yeah.
I had a friend here reach out about printing some replacement handles for his shower doors. When people realize they can do stuff like that, and the technology is there to make it easier for them (in, say, 20 years), they’ll find it incredibly useful.Remember there was a time when the only place you could find a computer was a college campus? Yeah.
Sorry. I don't see that as refuting the points I made :) Widespread adoption, which is brought about by ease of use, reliability, price tags and intense consumer desire for what the technology offers is what brought about the information age. FDM printing, as incredibly useful as it is for a certain segment of the population, just isn't as enticing to average, non-creative, and/or non-mechanically inclined consumers.
I had a friend here reach out about printing some replacement handles for his shower doors. When people realize they can do stuff like that, and the technology is there to make it easier for them (in, say, 20 years), they’ll find it incredibly useful.
In 20 years, I find a much more likely scenario is that FDM printers are relegated to history and will be supplanted by something more capable and user-friendly. As I mentioned earlier, FDM is literally built upon a 70
Well, let’s just check in in 20 years and see what’s going on.
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The only technology I see as a possibility is PolyJet. InkJet printer style nozzles deposit resin and are followed by a UV light that cures the resin as it is deposited.
If an affordable desktop PolyJet printer could print three dimensional objects as well and as simply as inkjet printers print photographs, then we would have something.
This isn't a new technology either and the price would have to come down tenfold before even hobbyists mess with it.
That’s why I’ve clearly stated I think it’ll be about two decades down the road. Come on, you know that technology is constantly improving. E3D has just come out with a nozzle that you can change with your fingers, no tools or fear of burning yourself. Technology advancements and improvements like that will benefit consumers 20 years from now.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=post;topic=152421.1200;last_msg=1753359#postmodify
The catch with these is that unless they are WIDELY accepted, the cost of these types of systems will be prohibitive. A 49 cent nozzle which works fine in the hands of the actual enthusiast will prevent that wide adoption when the alternatives are 100x+ more costly.
In 20 years, I find a much more likely scenario is that FDM printers are relegated to history and will be supplanted by something more capable and user-friendly. As I mentioned earlier, FDM is literally built upon a 70 year old concept, which just happens to be one of it's majorly limiting facets.compared to my chiron the vyper feels like cheating.
i just finished a 54 hour print.
no issues.
with a cura profile off the FB group.
i'd recommend this printer to first timers.
And that's the FDM rub. Amazon reviews (taken for what they are) show the Vyper to have ~25% of reviewers being somewhat to terribly dissatisfied with the purchase. And it looks like a very nice printer! While some of that can be chalked up to manufacturing issues, which should only be a few percent, there's still a lot of "not happy" purchasers. I believe a good chunk of it is nearly impossible expectations given the technology in use.
I've actually had a change in thought. The fact that just about every printer at a price point is nearly identical nowadays, it gives a good indication that, for the money, that design delivers the best possible result. Unless one has mushrooms growing between their ears ( :) ) I think a good recommendation would be to jump in on one with the least negative reviews for manufacturing issues, play with it and learn it well. Then, if the hobby is found to be enticing, begin doing the upgrades yourself to turn it into a better printer. Because the models are so similar, there is an abundance of inexpensive options for upgrading it to a very good printer. And doing it yourself means that if you need to fix something (you will) you will know right where to go and how to do it.
Everyone else should throw money at it if available. :)
I had a friend here reach out about printing some replacement handles for his shower doors. When people realize they can do stuff like that, and the technology is there to make it easier for them (in, say, 20 years), they’ll find it incredibly useful.Remember there was a time when the only place you could find a computer was a college campus? Yeah.
Sorry. I don't see that as refuting the points I made :) Widespread adoption, which is brought about by ease of use, reliability, price tags and intense consumer desire for what the technology offers is what brought about the information age. FDM printing, as incredibly useful as it is for a certain segment of the population, just isn't as enticing to average, non-creative, and/or non-mechanically inclined consumers.
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i belong to the FB groups where people post their problems and 95% of it is user error / ignorance on how these printers work.
90% of their problems is bed adhesion from not leveling the bed.
very few of the people who have had problems legit had a bad part or dead board on their printer.
it comes down to people seeing pretty pictures of prints and not understanding it's a PITA to dial a printer in to get great prints.
usually.
i'm still amazed by the vyper. lol.
i belong to the FB groups where people post their problems and 95% of it is user error / ignorance on how these printers work.
90% of their problems is bed adhesion from not leveling the bed.
very few of the people who have had problems legit had a bad part or dead board on their printer.
it comes down to people seeing pretty pictures of prints and not understanding it's a PITA to dial a printer in to get great prints.
usually.
i'm still amazed by the vyper. lol.
I'd say that was a pretty good assessment of the situation. It doesn't matter how many times it is stated that the first layer is the most important for achieving a good print. What's as important is that the individual needs to fully understand how to reach that delicate balance between bed adhesion and thickness/uniformity for that first layer. And of course, how to get there varies with type/brand of filament being used. But it's absolutely true, assuming the rest of the machine is assembled and functioning as intended.
Time will tell, but I'm currently convinced that the "bed slingers" upgraded with dual Z-Axis, an optics-based bed probe (with appropriate mesh-leveling firmware), and a direct extruder, optionally with an all-metal hot-end, will provide the best bang-for-buck and help to achieve that balance more easily. The mid-grade machines like the Vyper already have these (or similar) installed, which is what I believe accounts for the better experience you are having with it. Fortunately for you, Anycubic hasn't deviated too much in the design, so you'll have options down the road for repairs/upgrades when needed
I actually ordered a similar Cubicon Prime unit, but immediately regretted it when I looked more deeply into the cost of ownership and ease of getting parts, specifically the nozzles for their fancy hot-end. The company is relatively obscure, and the parts are patented/uncommon so less likelihood of 3rd party replacements. And of course, this leads to them being able to charge whatever they desire for them, or ceasing production when the next revision arrives. This happens to be exactly what I am experiencing with the Zortrax and UP! units and it's not a fun ride. It's a shame that many of the nice, feature-rich machines end up like this and I understand that it's somewhat necessary for the sake of progress. But I've learned my lesson :) Even the "perfectly functioning out-of-the-box" units will eventually need TLC and as far as I'm concerned, the easier it is to provide it, the better the printer is.
*edit*
Oh, and forgot to mention...Amazon screwed up and eventually declared the package lost, so I bailed on the Cubicon.
agree on dual z's.
i'm redoing my chirons hot end along with wire harness and didn't want to go the direct drive route because i just replaced the extruder and calibrated e-steps.
but, if i'm replacing the whole hot end bracket i'm thinking of printing up the direct drive also.
edit: yeah i have a right hand duel drive extruder.
just need the slim stepper so going direct drive.
it took so much to convince also. lol.
was planning on v6 volcano with copper heat break.
I have a BLtouch also and it looks like there is some voodoo i can do to make that work with the stock board so i may go there also.
though i manually leveled the giant glass bed good enough to fill the whole tray with parts and not have adhesion issues.
Had a look at that Cubicon Prime...
Proprietary nozzles?
Randy, please stop buying these things.
agree on dual z's.
i'm redoing my chirons hot end along with wire harness and didn't want to go the direct drive route because i just replaced the extruder and calibrated e-steps.
but, if i'm replacing the whole hot end bracket i'm thinking of printing up the direct drive also.
edit: yeah i have a right hand duel drive extruder.
just need the slim stepper so going direct drive.
it took so much to convince also. lol.
was planning on v6 volcano with copper heat break.
I have a BLtouch also and it looks like there is some voodoo i can do to make that work with the stock board so i may go there also.
though i manually leveled the giant glass bed good enough to fill the whole tray with parts and not have adhesion issues.
Just watch for "ringing" in the print surface if using a direct extruder on such a large machine. If the parts are functional rather than purely cosmetic, it's not really an issue and direct is usually a better overall setup. Auto-bed leveling is more a quality-of-life thing, but I think that it's especially important on a dual-Z machine and that leveling is performed at least once when the machine is powered on, although it's best done before each print if you can afford the time. I believe the Chiron has dual Z homing sensors, so that would take some of the possible issues out of the equation. But if you're ok with doing it manually, and the firmware supports manual mesh leveling, then the bed probe sensor isn't really a necessity.
Through a series of fortunate events, I ended up with the Cubicon PRIME unit anyway. It got itself "un-lost" and showed up on my doorstep yesterday. Amazon told me to just keep it when I informed them. Never before have I felt so dirty opening a box, but I set it up and checked it out. At first glance, it looks like a normal "bed slinger" of the ET4 style, with a nice fully enclosed steel bottom section and a touch screen which also has a knob for navigating the advanced functions of the firmware. I have to say, the unit is very well-built and feels more solid and heavy than something like an Ender 3 v2. There is a lot of attention to detail that seems to be missing on other units and it comes mostly assembled out of the box. One thing which jumps out immediately is the huge direct extrusion hot-end/fan assembly which necessitated a double height cross extrusion just to support it's weight. It's clear that the machine's frame was designed around this assembly. One of the first things I do with a new machine is force it to print one of it's demo files in ABS by tweaking the temps and fan at run-time, instead of using the supplied PLA the files are meant for. Aside from being a bit difficult to change the values on the fly without grinding the filament, the resulting print passed with flying colors. No curling, perfect bed adhesion and a very uniform surface. It also printed faster than I would usually go with ABS and it did it without a problem. The transducer in the extruder section worked exactly as it should. There are NO bed adjustment knobs on the unit whatsoever. You just tell the unit to perform it's mesh leveling procedure, which it does directly from the nozzle tip, and afterward set the Z-offset from the center of the table with a slip of paper or the included card. That's it. Done.
I really didn't want to like this printer, but I really do. The only thing which would keep me from recommending it is the question of long-term reliability and accessibility of the specialized parts. But if they hold up over time, it's possibly the nicest printer I have seen for the $320 (with the current $80 coupon on Amazon). Especially when it would cost more in total to add those features to an Ender 3 V2, and still not have the same build quality. Out of the box, and replacement parts aside, I'd have been extremely happy having this as my first 3D printer.
I was told the fact the chiron is such a big machine the direct drive affects it less than a smaller printer.
I was told the fact the chiron is such a big machine the direct drive affects it less than a smaller printer.
Hmmm... I've always interpreted the issue as being from oscillations at the nozzle or bed caused by an overall lack of frame or motion component rigidity. As the size of the structure increases, the more difficult it becomes to maintain that rigidity. The addition of weight on any of these moving, suspended structures would tend to exacerbate such an issue.
Even so, it can be managed even if it happens, through acceleration and jerk value tuning. With slower accelerations and direction changes, rigidity becomes less of an issue. I doubt the large machine will have any issues which can't be addressed in one way or another. I suppose I'll find out first-hand, as I just set up an SV-03 last night. Not quite as big a machine as yours, but probably larger than I'll likely take advantage of very often, unless it proves reliable enough to fill that large bed with parts.
yes i know these prints looks awful finish wise.
nobody will ever get that close to the hotend so i don't need a show piece.
yes i know these prints looks awful finish wise.
nobody will ever get that close to the hotend so i don't need a show piece.
Looks as good as what I've been getting recently. :banghead:
I've been tweaking the Voron 2.4 trying to get more speed out of it, but am coming to the conclusion that the materials I print with (ABS & ASA mostly) just don't like to be printed fast.
Even if I manage to print a layer fast, the print goes to crap if the minimum layer time isn't long enough. This pretty much cancels out any increases in print speed when printing a single object that isn't huge. Part fan cooling may make the parts look better, but will result in weak parts. 60mm/s walls and 150mm/s infill seems to be as fast as it wants to go and still produce decent looking prints. Acceleration max is only set to 3500 because when I did the initial setup, whatever test results dictated that print quality decreased over that. I've run the full setup including input shaping using an accelerometer. Someday I'll do all that testing again I guess. :-[
I got some Black Polymaker ASA and printed a bunch of tests to dial it in. Everything looked great until I printed an actual useful part (fishing rod holder). I dunno why the valleys look like crap. Maybe having ironing turned on messed with the valleys. The (supported)overhangs underneath look really bad, but they could be designed out of the part. Seams always look bad. Guess I need to spend days reprinting the same part to figure it out. :'(
I would flip that part on the long end to print.
but i'm guessing the velcro run inside it might cease to exist if you did that.
is this for water soluble supports or just to be an absolute madman?
If you spend the money and don't buy a kit, then a 3D printer is a tool that just works with minor maintenance. Same with a CNC machine.
These guys are buying kits and they enjoy the tinkering.
So I'm printing parts on the Voron 2.4 and they start looking weird. The back is perfectly fine, the front is missing starting at a certain layer.
Filaments spool preload might be a little tight, so I loosen it up and start the next print. Again, printer stops extruding filament toward the front.
Diagnosis = extruder motor wires are probably broken inside the drag chains. :banghead:
I already went through this with the inductive sensor a month ago, but was hoping it as an isolated case.
I guess the silicone ribbon cable I used just wasn't up to the task.
So now a complete rewire of the toolhead is required when I'd rather be working on other things.
Again, this is a horrible hobby. :angry:
EDIT: Fixed after three hours of work. I had just enough of various color silicone wire to make a new run for the extruder motor. The only other run from the toolhead using the bad wire was for the induction sensor which already failed and was already replaced a month ago. Now my "by the book" black and red V2 has a rainbow of wiring colors.
If you spend the money and don't buy a kit, then a 3D printer is a tool that just works with minor maintenance. Same with a CNC machine.
These guys are buying kits and they enjoy the tinkering.
If you spend the money and don't buy a kit, then a 3D printer is a tool that just works with minor maintenance. Same with a CNC machine.
These guys are buying kits and they enjoy the tinkering.
I wish that were that case Mike, but it really isn't. Even with a top-of-the-line printer the success rate is probably 80% on prints at best. Filament reacts to moisture, bed adhesion fluctuates, hot ends overheat ect. Remember we are essentially making a cake by stacking row after row of squirts of icing on top of each other and hoping that it doesn't fall over..... that ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- shouldn't even work so it's a miracle that it even works half of the time exactly as you intend it to.
...honestly I think 80% is a bit low, and that will scare off people getting into this - its prob closer to 90+% - and my experience is most issues are filament (temp / moisture / bed adhesion) or slicer config - once you have tuned in your printer, ..and yes, (like anything including building arcades) you have to invest time to get the most out of it - the more prints (experience you gain) the less issues.
Thanks for the links nitrogen_widget. Those are cheaper than what I remember coming up in my searches. I am wondering if silicone cable is a good choice for inside cable chains though. It's flexible, but also grabs everything it comes into contact with. When the first wires to the inductor broke (four conductor silicone ribbon cable), I left them in the cable chain because it was easier than removing them. This time around I removed them and the other broken wires. The first set which was no longer connected at the toolhead end had worked itself backwards through the cable chain five or six inches. I am wondering if the sticky silicone ribbon cables weren't "walking" themselves backwards against each other as the cable chain rolled and unrolled. If so it would be an argument for $PTFE$ cable. I already ordered a larger gauge silicone ribbon cable on the current build, but it won't be inside a cable chain.
Printed some brackets to hold the electronics where I would like them to live. The goal is to have the electronics and motors in a compartment insulated from both the frame and chamber with a couple big fans moving air across them. Still don't know exactly how that will work, but this lets me visualize how things fit. A lot less wire will be required. Still haven't lost any Y axis travel. Gonna start rewiring & printing parts for the Trident Z axis conversion. After the Trident conversion is done, I am going to try to incorporate the filament spools inside the frame under where the toolheads park on the sides.
If you spend the money and don't buy a kit, then a 3D printer is a tool that just works with minor maintenance. Same with a CNC machine.
These guys are buying kits and they enjoy the tinkering.
I wish that were that case Mike, but it really isn't. Even with a top-of-the-line printer the success rate is probably 80% on prints at best. Filament reacts to moisture, bed adhesion fluctuates, hot ends overheat ect. Remember we are essentially making a cake by stacking row after row of squirts of icing on top of each other and hoping that it doesn't fall over..... that ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- shouldn't even work so it's a miracle that it even works half of the time exactly as you intend it to.
Agreed. These two responses demonstrate the difference between marketing-influenced perception, coupled with seeing the results from someone who knows their machine(s) really, really well and someone who has actually tried to make good prints with any sort of regularity on a machine they own. A chisel is also a tool which just works with minor maintenance, but if you don't know how to properly sharpen one, the results will show it....honestly I think 80% is a bit low, and that will scare off people getting into this - its prob closer to 90+% - and my experience is most issues are filament (temp / moisture / bed adhesion) or slicer config - once you have tuned in your printer, ..and yes, (like anything including building arcades) you have to invest time to get the most out of it - the more prints (experience you gain) the less issues.
The Ender series are probably the best of the low-cost bed-slingers, but not out of the box unless you get very lucky. They still really require the upgrades you mentioned to take away a lot of the variables which are just part of the process. And those aren't even worth anything if you don't REALLY understand the slicer software and can make proper adjustments to get rid of the problems. Even that won't fix all of them, forcing you to go back to your CAD software to make changes to the part to be more conducive to the process and how you want your workflow to go. Experience is everything with these machines and it transcends the hardware.
I pissed away a roll of pet-g on multiple 40-50hr prints (same model) that failed half way through (layer shift) because there was slop in the bearing roller for the bed.
since i replaced it i'm back to back 60+hr prints with zero issue.
I pissed away a roll of pet-g on multiple 40-50hr prints (same model) that failed half way through (layer shift) because there was slop in the bearing roller for the bed.
since i replaced it i'm back to back 60+hr prints with zero issue.
Sounds about right. That's where, I think, most of the waste and difficulty occurs. Not knowing where the problem is and whether it is an isolated "glitch" somewhere or a genuine machine issue which needs to be addressed.
I had a similar situation on an ET4 where I would print a bed full of small parts and would inevitably get a layer shift or the head would stall and deposit a pile of plastic and then back the filament all the way out of the tube. Fewer parts on the table and it would usually print fine. Thinking the firmware was crap, I upgraded it and still had the same issues. Then after replacing the mainboard after smoking it by shorting the heater with some tweezers due to the aforementioned blobs, I put the latest Anet firmware on it, thinking it might solve the issue (same base machine and MB.) But still the exact same problems. Wasn't until I found a Marlin replacement firmware that the issues went away and the machine started behaving. If I didn't have the sense that the firmware was the root of the problems, the "rabbit-hole" would have gone much deeper and been more costly to remedy. I don't know how the Chinese engineers manage to bork Marlin so badly when they skin the software for touch screens, but somehow they do. If I were to guess, knowing how they tend to operate, one guy does a shoddy job and it gets copied/modified by everyone, with existing bugs plus potentially new ones, which are never fixed because it almost works well enough to sell the printer.
So there's another bullet point for my list of machines to avoid; anything which doesn't have a reasonably easy path to make it swallow a stock Marlin firmware or a community modded one which has been well-tested. In the low-cost market, that means sticking with the most popular brands and models, even if they tend to cost a little more than other similar machines.
Outside dimensions should be 4.5" tall by 2.75" wide. I wouldn't make it more than 1/8" thick from outside to inside edge. And 5/16" tall. I'll try to get some more precise measurements.
:cheers:
Very nice! But man, those extruder swaps definitely need to be moving in tandem. I would think that two motors on the same axis, with the same feed rate and direction with differing destination points, should never result in a conflict. Or is this just a safe test?Hmmm.... It's just the order of operations in the tool swap macro which I copied and pasted from the Klipper documentation. The only other Klipper based IDEX system I saw behaves the same way.
Very nice! But man, those extruder swaps definitely need to be moving in tandem. I would think that two motors on the same axis, with the same feed rate and direction with differing destination points, should never result in a conflict. Or is this just a safe test?Hmmm.... It's just the order of operations in the tool swap macro which I copied and pasted from the Klipper documentation. The only other Klipper based IDEX system I saw behaves the same way.
What you say makes sense. I will see if I can get them moving simultaneously. If nothing else, I can crank the travel speed.
I followed a couple people trying to use filament swaps for dissolvable supports, but they claimed that the parts turned out weak due to contamination from the support material no matter how much they purged.
They were engineers so I assume then knew what they were talking about, which is why I went down the IDEX path.
I think it is something to do with the Y motors. It just dawned on me that both are running off the same driver, so they may be starving for power.
Believe it or not, that makes resonance even more likely the culprit. Even though it is done often on the Z-axis, it's considered bad practice to connect two motors to a single driver. With small and seldom moves it can be gotten away with, but when the motors resonate they can fight each other as they will not be resonating in sync with one another.
Or it could be a power issue :) Either way, giving each motor it's own driver would be a good step to take.
I just broke down and spent way too much money on a professionally made wall plate for the gameroom. Looks finished now, though.Do you want it in yellow, red, green, blue, gray, or black PLA?
Who can print this:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3407862 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3407862)
What’s the cheapest?No worries. It's on the house. :cheers:
I recently picked up an Anycubic Kobra. I have made an army of house hippos, the default owl test project, a penis raptor for a friend (look it up... wtf?) and am now working on some X-Men stuff for my daughter's Halloween costume (she's gonna be storm!) and mine (Mr. Freeze from Batman) plus some coasters with the logo of my friend's business on them. She makes all my swag and clothing for my company (t-shirts, key rings, stickers, lanyards, pens, even a stencil so I can label my gear quickly.)
I've also designed a bunch of cookie cutters since the colder weather is coming and we will be doing more baking.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220928/5ae7dd09ad654eeb985a377023581b25.jpg)
Here you go - printed in 3 parts to make an exact size replica.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220928/44415d7857b547c08f3517421f6ae0bf.jpg)
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It’s actually pretty light, because it’s hollow. It was printed in three pieces, and I plan to fill it with sand before I seal it up.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220928/5ae7dd09ad654eeb985a377023581b25.jpg)
Here you go - printed in 3 parts to make an exact size replica.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220928/44415d7857b547c08f3517421f6ae0bf.jpg)
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Holy ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---!
Love that.
How much does the little beast weigh?
That would be a good candidate for printing in ABS and acetone smoothing. It would look even more original.
EDIT: Andy shiny!
I was pretty impressed when I first saw these printers. Looks like a lot of engineering and capability for the buck.
That said, nothing is perfect. While I have no specific experience with the printers, there seems to be some disgruntled owners who don't seem to be happy with the carbon fiber rods. While they are light and probably the very thing which gets them to move so quickly, I have my doubts about their suitability for a wear surface over stainless.
Could be a non-concern, but if I were you, I would look into this by gathering comments from long-time users, and decide whether or not this is a real thing before deciding. There must be something to it, as the company has released a "how to clean" video for them. This makes me concerned that the surface is wearing and gunking up the bearing, leading to jams. But again, who knows for sure?
I have multiple 3d printers that work.
No pics = no prints
No pics = no prints
Can you print me a set of blue ships for the table top game Plunder? I may resort to spray paint.
No pics = no prints
So I picked up a relatively cheap-ish S20 Ultra with a cracked back for a DIY handheld experiment.
....pic of sink trays.
I've been using mine non stop for like 6 months, maybe more now. I print a lot of stupid crap but also lots of practical things, a lens hood for my canon 100-400L, a handle for my table saw fence, boobs for my lego. Working on my he-man halloween costume and my daughter's she-ra. Some arcade parts, specifically a mount for the sensor bar for my ultimarc guns.
Dang Badmouth, that dual extruder looks very ambitious! That will be awesome when you get it working.
So I have been lightly rocking the Anet A8 for a few years now and am looking at some of the high speed units to upgrade to. Any thought on these two?
Creatlity K1:
https://store.creality.com/products/k1-speedy-3d-printer?sscid=81k7_aolwq&
Bambu P1S:
https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/p1s?variant=41211805696136&sscid=81k7_aof80
Kind of pricey but with those speeds and enclosure, it seems like they could be a good deal. I am trying to find out more about the K1...
Which one of youFIFY. :lolbeautifulmen can print the ones for megadrive / genesis 2?
Accented black, kthx.Accented and plain in black PLA.
(Maybe one of both?)
I think I am going with the Bambu P1S. It looks incredible. Now I have to decide on the AMS add on. I was hoping it would be more like $150 instead of $250, but it looks like it would be really convenient.
I have a big exciting win for myself, courtesy of 3d printing.Nice.
Value Village! $7.99, a Sears Craftsman router table missing all accessories. I printed a plate that I can slide my small router (Milwaukee Fuel cordless) into, making it tool-less to add and remove. I printed a vacuum splitter so that my mini vacuum can attach to both the router dust port and the dust collector up top I printed, and some feet so that when I mount this to a board it will lock into my Packout tool boxes.
I wouldn't touch a Bambu. Always connected, forced cloud service usage?
just throwing my hat in the ring... just bought an Ender 3 pro... it went on pretty cheap so I got it.
after printing a few things to make it better/more reliable and adding a sheet of 1mm glass under the magnetic bed... it's pretty good and reliable to print with.
gonna update the firmware so i can use mesh leveling, then i might be able to ditch the glass sheet.
Get a BLTouch or CRtouch if you don't have one already.
I have heard of klipper, but i know nothing about it. kinda seems like it just plugs in via usb and sends gcode directly through to the controller... then you just send your slices to the pi instead?
i do have a pi zero w kicking around... but apparently according to klipper there isn't enough processing power there to do it (well anyways)... i may just try it anyway and see if it ends up being an issue.
i do have some actual real mini ITX computers i could maybe use one of those. something to look into i guess... maybe a project for next weekend if i don't end up busy anywhere else.
You may want to look into Octoprint. There's also a 3rd party fork for Android. I bought a number of LG G6 "retail demo" phones and flashed new firmware on them. For about 30$ per printer, it adds WiFi, a web interface, a touch screen and a webcam. Not sure if it will solve firmware issues, but if the printer works properly with G-CODE, you should be able to post-process your files to do whatever you need to.
I just picked up a Creality K1 that uses Klipper firmware. You can use a web interface like Fluidd or Mainsail to access the firmware configuration file. You basically open it up like a text document, make whatever change you want, save, and restart the printer. It can't get much easier to tweak things. A lot of folks will use a Sonic Pad or Big Tree Tech Pad to add Klipper to a machine currently running Marlin. The pad does the processing and tells the controller board how to move the printer. Plus you get a nice big screen for your printer. Win-win. :) Klipper gives you the ability to adjust pressure advance and input shaping with an accelerometer. There are also lots of other calibrations that can be done through macros. It certainly has made fine tuning my printer a much easier process.
kinda seems like it just plugs in via usb and sends gcode directly through to the controller... then you just send your slices to the pi instead?
i do have a pi zero w kicking around... but apparently according to klipper there isn't enough processing power there to do it (well anyways)... i may just try it anyway and see if it ends up being an issue.
Those of you with an ender printer - I use this site here for my firmware - https://marlin.crc.id.au/ (https://marlin.crc.id.au/)
does this look like it's just under-extruding? or something else?Hard to tell on a print like that. Could be the extrusion rate. Could be the slicer trying to deal with the varying widths/angles of the model. Could be the angle. Could be the nozzle size is too large/small. :dunno
i tried a couple different flow tests and it seems to be set properly (IE the best looking one is the 100% setting my printer currently has as default)OK. That eliminates that variable. ;D
normal flat areas with the diagonal fill look fine with this filament... could just be how the printer/slicer is doing the last layer in this particular item since they are thin?Is this an .STL that you downloaded from somewhere or are you generating the .STL from a font or .PNG using a program like OpenSCAD?
- It looks like the slicer doesn't have enough room to fit another vertical pass into the vertical strokes of the "P" and "E".
I hadn't really considered a line width multiplier being an issue I'd have to look out for, but in a smallish area, I guess it would be...I ran into that and another somewhat-related problem with the Ikari Warriors themed dust washer (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,155900.msg1647099.html#msg1647099).
- How well does the heater maintain temperature while printing?
Speed - If the speed is a bit high on the straight vertical passes, it might stretch the filament as it deposits it.
- If it loses contact between each vertical pass and the one before it, the deposited filament could cool and contract leaving the gaps.
- Notice that there is a little contact between the passes at the top and bottom, but gaps in the middle.
Over the holidays I upgraded my Ender 3 - Dual Z drive, direct drive, new allmetal hotend, printed a fan shroud. I bought an Ender 3 V3 SE, and purchased an HP 705 G4 to run multiple instances of Octoprint and cameras.
Can it print pirate figurines?
Screwed right in.
This part is unobtainium, other collectors I know are happy to see this come to fruition. Found out one of my mosfets is blown on my $300 repro MPU. But that’s another thread.
Even on superfine mode filament printers are still coarse to my eye. But this print will be refined quite a bit for a project.
Even on superfine mode filament printers are still coarse to my eye. But this print will be refined quite a bit for a project.
Use a smaller nozzle, like a 0.25mm. However, this makes print times increase dramatically on larger parts. You can get down to 0.07mm layer heights, which is almost resin-like quality.
https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/index_tuning.html
3D printing is an endless progression of "could be better" and diminishing returns.
...and there are limits to how good an fdm print can look.
I've not had a good week. It doesn't really matter why. *sigh* Anyway, I'm thinking of buying me my very own 3D printer! I watched a Creality K1 working at speed in the shop the other day, very impressive! A bit pricey though, so I think I'll get me a V3 KE. They seem to be the best value for money. Has anyone got one? Are they good? Alternatives?