The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: JudgeRob on January 23, 2016, 09:22:32 pm
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(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=367361;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=368703;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=360389;image)
Keeping it simple here. For my first build, I'm working on a basic 2P cabinet with a Spider-man theme. Because I live with a couple headstrong ladies, it will also incorporate some Wonder Woman as well. The overall structure is heavily based on OND's basic layout in the sticky. I was confused about a few steps in the making, so I'll try to clarify what I'm doing in those areas.
Specs:
MDF (mostly)
Ultimate 360 Sticks (x2)
IL buttons with with RGB inserts from Paradise
Four leaf switch button per side. Leaf mods from Paradise.
I-pac Ultimate
U-Trak trackball
Cheap ass widescreen TV
Scan line generator
Coin door mechs from Twisted Quarter
Extra mech for magic tokens
Special Specs:
SPIDEY SENSE GAME SELECTION SYSTEM:
I am trying to create and implement an RFID activation tag feature. This is not really something with mass appeal, or much use to anyone who has a dedicated cab or prefers a good front end. So why bother? Kids and other dumb-asses who will not be able to navigate a front end. I know myself well enough that I do not want to be called over every 5 minutes during a party to help change games. So my goal is to have a bucket of quarters for the credits and a bucket of magic tokens to select the game. I am hoping this will work particularly well for the 8 & under crowd. I am planning to pick 50-100 good games and make a dedicated token for each. All the user has to do is pick the token of the game they want, shove it in and the game launches automatically. Want to switch games? Shove a new token in. I'm not sure if I'll get there, but I'm going to try...
To do list:
Finish artwork
Cut out final Control Panel
Bezel graphics, instructions?
Install LED for trackball
Install LED backlights for speakers
Modify buttons from microswitches to leaf switches
Get separate toggle for scanline generator?
Get T molding
Get smart powerstrip
Get USB port
Get keylock switch 3pst for coin ups
Get 4pst switch for admin buttons
Get LED strips for front and bottom of cab
Code token RFID launch sequences
Get/fabricate mounts for marquee
Mount amp and volume controls
Prepare 2nd ATX power supply
Wrap with vinyl
Weather strip all vibrations out for music playback
Custom token display tray
Finish data files for random tokens
Experiment with 3d printer for custom textured tokens
Finish fabrication of custom tokens
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(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=343094;image)
Start!
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Good luck with your build. I love pictures like that!
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Is that a glass of scotch? ::)
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Your a better person than me, I would still be arguing with the gals about how you can't mix Marvel and DC.
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Woman skimpy outfit or distressed teen with hormone issues?
Shoot... Wonder Woman hands down.
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Is that a glass of scotch? ::)
Sure is!
Your a better person than me, I would still be arguing with the gals about how you can't mix Marvel and DC.
Hahaha. I wondered how long it would be before someone brought that up! ;) Oh well, universes are colliding on this one!
I'm going to go with a darker, modern WW. Gal Gadot style. ;D
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Side panels cut out:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=343162;image)
Back panel cut out. Routing straight edge:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=343164;image)
Side and back panels on, attached to base:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=343166;image)
Mirrored cut outs for the two front panels:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=343168;image)
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Attaching the front panels with coin cut-outs:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=343178;image)
Back panel. I used three large circular holes. Hopefully it will give me some flexibility with the control panel, since I haven't quite fleshed the CP out totally... :-\
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=343180;image)
My nail gun broke! I think I didn't oil it like I should. So... screws from here on out!
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That's some quality work! :applaud:
The part I always worry about the most is finishing using paint.
Keep up the good work.
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Thanks dude. This has to be the most accurate thing I've ever made out of wood. I'm really excited to get to use the router that's been sitting around in my tool bucket. Glad I found these forums!!!
I'm dreaming about painting for the last couple weeks. It would symbolically be a new "phase", but I'm sure I'll want to die with all those coats and sanding and waiting for coats to dry... And I suck at painting anything! :D
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I'm sure it looks weird, but here's how I angled the bezel around the monitor cut-out:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=343186;image)
I wasn't sure how to angle the monitor bezel, so I lined it up with the straight edge of the cabinet sides and used a large clamp to "pinch" the sides in and hold it in place (gently) while I measured:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=343188;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=343190;image)
That's bondo on the belzel where I nicked it with my sub-par router skills. :embarassed:
Then I tightened up the clamp and went inside to install the bracing. I held the pieces in place, drilled:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=343192;image)
Then I drilled through the side panels:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=343194;image)
And then screwed in from the exterior:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=343196;image)
Finally, I drilled and screwed in the bezel:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=343198;image)
And then I did the top half of the bezel. I wonder, should I use more than four screws?
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=343200;image)
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4 screws will hold it securely, but nothing says OCD with a hint of psychosis like 40 screws.
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I am doing a mock-up of the CP. I have a dilemma I am hoping for some input on. I wanted to hide the bolt heads b/c I like the clean look. I also want the possibility of swapping sticks if necessary to repair or something in the future.
I am using the US 360 with a standard shaft. I think I want to use a standard shaft instead of the extended one because the throw feels good and I don't think I would like it much longer. Obviously, with 3/4 inch MDF for the top, the stick is too short to simply mount the stick under the CP top. So I tried rebating the underside of the CP top 1/2", which gives the stick a good height, but only leaves 1/4" to mount the stick onto. I toyed around with using inserts, which could be ground down, but I'm worried they will not give the stick enough support. I could screw some strips of wood into the bottom to support the plate from underneath...
I'm thinking options would be to find an "s" plate, or maybe a thin metal panel on the top of the CP, rebated into it to provide strength and have the bolts welded to it or something. Any suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=343718;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=343720;image)
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Get these from paradise arcade and top mount....
(https://talk.dallasmakerspace.org/uploads/default/optimized/2X/c/cffdc4d6de7052bcc6d3fc0b653a993ff07daa6a_1_690x314.png)
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I could screw some strips of wood into the bottom to support the plate from underneath...
Check out "Under mount (support blocks)" here (http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=FAQ#Joysticks) in the FAQ.
(http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/images/thumb/8/84/Joystickmount-supportblocks.png/161px-Joystickmount-supportblocks.png)
EMDB uses 10 threaded inserts :o , but 4 is plenty. ;D
(http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/images/9/93/Emdb_5.jpg)
You can also use 2 bars instead of a square plate.
Scott
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Thanks PL1. I am thinking that is my best option.
Rablack97, if i top mount with a plate and vinyl over it, what prevents the mounting screws from spinning on the plate freely when tightening the nuts underneath?
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Not sure i'm following you, a screwdriver? :dunno
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145495;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145501;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145503;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145509;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145505;image)
However, if your going adhesive vinyl on top you have no choice but to undermount, with PL1's suggested method. Unless you countersink your screw and bondo/woodfill, the the vinyl will show where your screw holes are when its sticks.
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Yes, I am planning on using adhesive vinyl, so I will go with the undermount with supports. Thanks, it's great having solid veterans give advice! :afro:
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So, here is my trial attempt at bolting down a piece of wood to secure the joystick plate. Curious if I need to also have screws on the plate itself to help keep the stick centered. I didn't see anyone else doing this but it seems necessary to keep the plate from shifting in the oversized rebate?
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=344073;image)
I'm thinking of using these bars instead of a cutout square metal plate. I think 2 bars should give it enough support.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=344075;image)
Does the height of my trackball look OK? I was planning on using the ring (pictured on the side). Or should I go for more of a flush mount without the ring?
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Finally get to bondo and primer paint! I think the only woodwork left is the CP.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=344726;image)
I also threw together a mount for the monitor. I wasn't too sure how to do this and still make it reasonably accessible for repair or to upgrade the monitor. It is such a tight fit horizontally, I'll probably have to take it out the front side but I tried to make the brackets removable from behind.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=344728;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=344730;image)
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(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=344732;image)
I have a bit of a problem with the buttons. I realize with some testing that I really like the feel of the leaf-switch buttons. Only, I have already stocked up on the IL microswitch buttons. I think I will be happy with only 3 or 4 leafs per side (6-8 total), but I want the black plunger and clear surround for the LEDs. Has anyone tried to convert a microswitch button to a leaf? Or, better yet, is there a matching leaf switch button on the market that has the clear/black combination I am looking for? :dunno
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Has anyone tried to convert a microswitch button to a leaf?
Micro-Leaf™ Arcade Pushbutton Switches:
http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=71&products_id=309 (http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=71&products_id=309)
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Anxious to see some artwork here! Big Spiderman/comic book fan! :applaud:
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This build looks very promising. You are finding bondo to be useful stuff yeah? I'm a big fan of it myself, keep up the good work JudgeRob.
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I dig the progress so far, and the name of the cabinet! :)
Looking forward to seeing how you dress this one up.
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Thanks for the encouragement! :) Artwork is still a work in progress, but it is progressing. I've been focusing on the control panel first. I'll throw up some of it tonight. Like I said, it is a strange blend of Wonder Woman and Spider-Man. The cab is going to be divided with WW on the left half and SM on the right. I've decided to go with more of a "real" live action art as opposed to comic art. It's been a difficult part of this project for me. I've discovered I am not as artistically inclined as I thought I was! :-[
I found some decent fonts (I think) for the marquee. I still need to decide what kind of action (if any) to go on the marquee. I also need to finalize which Spider-Man pic to put on the right side panel.
You are finding bondo to be useful stuff yeah?
Yeah, it's good stuff. My only gripe is it sets up pretty fast, so it's hard to mix and use a lot of it at once. It dries really hard. Any issues using a router on it? I had to fill in some parts of my T molding channel where I messed up and need to cut through it again.
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Any issues using a router on it? I had to fill in some parts of my T molding channel where I messed up and need to cut through it again.
Bondo routes really well especially when used with MDF just make sure the bits are nice and sharp for a clean edge.
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4 screws will hold it securely, but nothing says OCD with a hint of psychosis like 40 screws.
I agree - nothing says crazy like 40 screws! In case you (or anyone reading this build) is interested in the strength of a screwed butt joint, here is an interesting mostly scientific analysis. Even though they use pocket holes, that shouldn't really matter. And yes, I said screwed butt joint, get over it PBJ.
https://woodgears.ca/joint_strength/pockethole.html
Your build is looking great (and so is your workshop/tools). I also see you have a lot of fingers left - keep it that way by only having Scotch while drafting (booze and power tools will put you in front of a high school shop class as a guest speaker pretty quick...)
Cheers!
:cheers:
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Guilty as charged. :-[ I usually drink beers while I work. I know my limit when I'm using different tools, but I'm sure everyone says that. After a few beers, I don't use anything high speed or circular saws.
Interesting article. I've wanted a pocket hole jig for a while now. Not sure my monitor bezel needs that kind of mounting strength though! :lol
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Here's a preview combination pic. The fonts are what I am working on for the marquee. The "WEB" will have more of a web texture though, instead of chiseled rock. For "WONDER" I went with more of a primal paintbrush look to give homage to the amazonian heritage. The pictures are what I am trying to blend together for the control panel (which won't have any words). It's a little busy. I might tone down the background a little. My brother is actually doing all the photoshopping. He's working to polish and finalize this raw concept.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=344976;image)
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Came across this sweet find for my speakers. The spider grills are perfect! I'm sure the speakers will sound like garbage, but for 20 bucks, it's worth it for the grills alone, even if I have to replace the speakers. The cones are translucent, so my plan is to back light them. Not sure what color to use???
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=344977;image)
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*puts on brutally honest hat*
You need to change that artwork. I quite think the opposite of your post in that you SHOULD use animated images versus live action. I really feel you should nix Wonder Woman and maybe go with Spider-Woman, or even Spider-Gwen with Spiderman.
Live action just brings two TOTALLY different styles, where animation you can get away with more as it's mostly lines and colors, both of which you can alter to get at least a SOMEWHAT cohesive mix.
Either that, or put on your big boy pants, and build the Spiderman cabinet you really want, and maybe do a bartop or mini of Wonder Woman for the girls once you gain all the knowledge from your first build. From the speaker grills you have chosen, you are not leaving much to the "Wonder Woman" theme, and it's going to be even worse if Spiderman is the dominant design with 3 pictures of WW thrown in to keep the girls happy. I have a wife and 2 daughters, so I get the pain, but c'mon man. I would be happy to work on some samples if you wish.
And to appease the "if you don't have something nice to say" crowd, I think this build is awesome, and it's your machine that you'll have to look at, but I am saying something early on instead of letting you get all your artwork printed and hating it.
Keep up the good work!
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*puts on brutally honest hat*
You need to change that artwork. I quite think the opposite of your post in that you SHOULD use animated images versus live action. I really feel you should nix Wonder Woman and maybe go with Spider-Woman, or even Spider-Gwen with Spiderman.
Live action just brings two TOTALLY different styles, where animation you can get away with more as it's mostly lines and colors, both of which you can alter to get at least a SOMEWHAT cohesive mix.
Either that, or put on your big boy pants, and build the Spiderman cabinet you really want, and maybe do a bartop or mini of Wonder Woman for the girls once you gain all the knowledge from your first build. From the speaker grills you have chosen, you are not leaving much to the "Wonder Woman" theme, and it's going to be even worse if Spiderman is the dominant design with 3 pictures of WW thrown in to keep the girls happy. I have a wife and 2 daughters, so I get the pain, but c'mon man. I would be happy to work on some samples if you wish.
And to appease the "if you don't have something nice to say" crowd, I think this build is awesome, and it's your machine that you'll have to look at, but I am saying something early on instead of letting you get all your artwork printed and hating it.
Keep up the good work!
Heh, this is the benefit (and it IS a benefit) of sharing your project on the forum. Honest advice from folks who understand arcade aesthetics. In short, I agree with reptileink's feedback on the artwork mock-up. If you're fixed on mixing the two super heroes in a split I'd definitely stick to cartoon style artwork rather than live action with clean color separation left and right. Your build standard is high, but artwork is sooo important at the end of the day. You'll find plenty of offers to help - go with it.
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It's cool, no worries. ;) I'm still undecided on how it will all pan out. My initial mockups were cartoon based. I do think comic art will stand the test of time better. I was having a hard time finding WW pics I liked. Some I liked but were a little too skanky. I appreciate the input. I was going to go with Spider-Woman as the alternate too,
but pics were hard to come by and didn't really grab me. Plus, I think there were no fewer than 3, maybe 4 different Spider Women. Wonder woman just felt way more recognizable and modernly relevant. I'll post some more as I get the developments... (more to come).
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I'm sort of rebooting this. I'm almost certainly bailing on Wonder Woman. I am considering two distinct possibilities.
1) Spiderman "Alien Costume" and The Silver Sable, or Spider-Woman #3. This would be a very neutral colored cabinet with a lot of dark grey and black (sort of at odds with the RGB LED lighting).
2) Spiderman and Spider-Woman (First generation). This would be much more colorful and also be a lot more recognizable to the rest of the population.
As cool as the first option would be, I am leaning heavily toward the second.
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Just when I was sort of warming to the idea of Wonder Woman, based strongly on your sweet cabinet name you go and change it? :lol
I also agree with the others on the comic style, but if you're rolling your own art I definitely understand the limitations.
Keep working dude, I'll be watching your progress!
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*puts on brutally honest hat*
You need to change that artwork. I quite think the opposite of your post in that you SHOULD use animated images versus live action. I really feel you should nix Wonder Woman and maybe go with Spider-Woman, or even Spider-Gwen with Spiderman.
Live action just brings two TOTALLY different styles, where animation you can get away with more as it's mostly lines and colors, both of which you can alter to get at least a SOMEWHAT cohesive mix.
Either that, or put on your big boy pants, and build the Spiderman cabinet you really want, and maybe do a bartop or mini of Wonder Woman for the girls once you gain all the knowledge from your first build. From the speaker grills you have chosen, you are not leaving much to the "Wonder Woman" theme, and it's going to be even worse if Spiderman is the dominant design with 3 pictures of WW thrown in to keep the girls happy. I have a wife and 2 daughters, so I get the pain, but c'mon man. I would be happy to work on some samples if you wish.
And to appease the "if you don't have something nice to say" crowd, I think this build is awesome, and it's your machine that you'll have to look at, but I am saying something early on instead of letting you get all your artwork printed and hating it.
Keep up the good work!
This is what honest feedback is all about. Kudos to you for giving it, and kudos to the OP for taking it for what it is. See, it's not about being negative, it's about improvement. :cheers:
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I wouldn't say I really excel at any of the skills needed for these builds, so I appreciate all the help I've received. I appreciate the compliments on the woodwork, but I know there are a lot of flaws to work out. Some things, especially art, needs a fresh set of eyes after a while. I just hope no one take offense if I don't take up a particular suggestion. Although I am building it mostly by my self, I am including my daughter where I can (ie sanding ;D) and the cabinet will be for the benefit of more than just me, so there are some considerations for others.
Just when I was sort of warming to the idea of Wonder Woman, based strongly on your sweet cabinet name you go and change it? :lol
Haha, well, the name will probably remain the same. He was still the Webbed Wonder after all, so it still works. I just wasn't feeling the WW. I can't describe it, but I just couldn't make it feel right. Your initial instincts were right! :D
Cheers :cheers:
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Silver Sable is a pretty badass chick:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=345026;image)
This coupling would look pretty cool:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=345029;image)
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First time I got to search for images for this cabinet tonight, and I find this in about 2 seconds. BAM! Side art done....
(http://vignette4.wikia.nocookie.net/marveldatabase/images/4/4a/New_Avengers_Vol_1_59_Textless.jpg/revision/latest?cb=20100323161628)
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LOL, thanks dude. I like that shot! Do you have a hi-res version of it?
I am planning to use the "standard" Spider-Man costume and Spider-Woman #1 (Jessica), which you have pictured. I'm combing through some old Spider-Woman comic books to look for some good, clean shots. Then pare it down to the 2-3 best ones. Gonna take me a while.
"I'm just getting started..." :)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=345054;image)
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Thinking something along these lines. Of course, you would need to really get the sizing and colors to match, but just quick image of what's in my head
(http://i65.tinypic.com/sp8ww0.png)
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Thinking of this for the left side panel:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=345084;image)
Want to try and crop and rotate just the characters in this one for the CP:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=345082;image)
Sort of two different styles though. Not sure if I can match them up...
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You have to pick a style that's either exact, or damn near close for all portions of the cabinet. Otherwise, you need to just Modge Podge a bunch of comic book covers on it and call it a day because that's what it's going to look like. Taking a vertical comic cover and trying to stretch it over the width of a CP is just not going to work, unless you have a GIANT image file of it or can raster it up.
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Yeah, those are my worries. I'm not going to be too anal about the art being the exact same style, if the colors can be brought in line. I'll see what kind of magic brush my brother can put on it. Damn man, this is taking as much time as the build! :banghead:
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Like others have mentioned, nobody is going to care about how many dovetail joints or beveled edges you put on a cabinet, they are going to take one look at the artwork/marquee and that's what will impress them. Artwork, in my humble opinion, should take just as long, if not longer to put together than a bunch of wood panels. (says the guy with an all black cabinet....lol)
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Like others have mentioned, nobody is going to care about how many dovetail joints or beveled edges you put on a cabinet, they are going to take one look at the artwork/marquee and that's what will impress them. Artwork, in my humble opinion, should take just as long, if not longer to put together than a bunch of wood panels. (says the guy with an all black cabinet....lol)
Well said. Artwork is going to be important when you use such a well-known character.
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Been doing a LOT of painting, sanding and painting some more. I got the power button and admin switch. Problem is, they are not easily mountable into 3/4 MDF. The button won't mount in more that 1/2" MAX:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346012;image)
So my plan is to to use this piece of aluminum I cut out and mount the switches to it and then cut out and rebate a small square in the top of the cab and mount the plate there:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346014;image)
I was looking into USB volume options but then discovered the ipac can do it, so my plan is to test out the ipac volume controls and just leave my amp cranked up.
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I use the Ipac volume controls they work fine just need a couple of buttons
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Thanks for the input. Do you just "shift" a couple buttons on the CP or do you use dedicated buttons? About how many button presses does it take to go from mute to full volume? Do you find there enough incremental steps to fine tune the volume?
A dial would be nice, as they have a better feel to them. I have a rotary encoder sitting in my drawer, but I'd need a decoding chip. It would only cost $5-10, but I'm not sure it is worth the time and not sure I want yet another user "input" sticking out of the cabinet. There's a certain appeal to using buttons already on the CP...
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I finally measured out the holes for the aluminum plate. I like to just use the calipers to score the aluminum b/c it's so soft.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346269;image)
A little file work for the switch opening:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346272;image)
Sanded down for painting:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346274;image)
I was really hesitant to blast such a big hole in the top of the cabinet, but I did it:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346276;image)
I got a first coat of paint on the mounting plate and then test fit it into the rebate I cut into the top. The rebate was tough to cut, but I got it close enough. I try not to sweat the areas that will likely never be seen up close.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346278;image)
Whew, I'm stoked to finally get to the control panel!
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sorry for the delay. I used two Mini buttons, for volume they should hold up fine
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as far as control its not like having a dial and works about the same as volume buttons on a keyboard
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Cool thanks dude. I'll run some tests.
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I'm starting in on the RFID aspect as described up in the initial post. I picked up these RFID tokens which will be the "magic" game select tokens and the cabinet will use its spidey sense to figure out which game the user wants. My plan is to print some labels for each of them with a little symbol or game name. They are 25mm and fit in my suzo-happ mechs, but they are too light and too big to pass through to the coin return. I just can't seem to get it to happen. So, I'm thinking of adding a third coin slot between the two and have a different color for the return button.
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I was really hoping to simply modify a coin mech to still accept quarters but pass the plastic tokens to the return slot but I guess it is not meant to be. I found 20mm tokens which would have worked but they were type B which my reader won't pick up. I want the tokens to pass through to the return without having to push the reject button. So... it looks like I'm headed toward the third slot which I will modify to basically pass everything to the return slot.
What do you guys think looks best for the location of the slot, left side, right side or the middle? I'm thinking middle looks best even tough it will be more work. The middle is slightly too small so I'll have to move one of the others to the side a centimeter or so.
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You should just buy a three slot door. What you intend, to be honest, is going to be a lot of work, throw off the mechanics and aesthetics of the door, and look like a compromise.
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That's a good idea. I'll see if I can find an affordable one.
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That's a good idea. I'll see if I can find an affordable one.
If you can't find one, I might have one laying around somewhere in good condition that I'm not using.
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Wow, thanks that's a really nice offer. It would certainly save me some time and effort. I did some internet searches and am having a hard time finding a 3-slot for sale. If you find one, please let me know. Otherwise, I'll get to hacking up this one. I think I could probably get it to line up OK, but it would be a lot of grinding away.
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I've made some good progress with the RFID tag reader. The prototype is up and running. I cannot get it to work with type 2 tags, but it works great with the Mifare tags I pictured above. Plus, the 25mm Mifare tags are pretty common and I think should take the same sized sticker as the button overlays.
Writing the code was a ---smurfette---. Not because it is particularly complicated but because I suck at programming. I know there is a way to emulate a keypress through java or script, but it got too complicated and confusing for me, so I'm just going to wire up a relay and use an extra unused port on the ipac to "escape" out of MAME for a game switch. Ahh, my stress level is down already. ;D
Next up is to reduce the form factor and slap this puppy on the side of a coin mech. Wish me luck!
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Love the RFID idea, but to mod that coin door would be a major PITA, if you post here or KLOV in buy sell or trade for a three slot it probably wouldn't be long of a wait, Now all you have to do is figure out how those kids are not gonna loose the game tokens
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I'll look in my box o' parts tomorrow. I'm planning on having a Yot-sale soon anyway
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Yot-sale, haha, I like it. Thanks for checking.
Love the RFID idea, but to mod that coin door would be a major PITA, if you post here or KLOV in buy sell or trade for a three slot it probably wouldn't be long of a wait,
Thanks for the tip. If yotsuya doesn't turn one up, I'll give it a try. The other issue is I already have the cab cut out for a full size door, so it would have to match up with the cut out. I sort of assume a 3 slot door would have to be full size.
Now all you have to do is figure out how those kids are not gonna loose the game tokens
Yeah, I definitely thought about that. I'll impress upon them that the tokens are worth more than their lives, but it will eventually happen. The drunken adults might be even worse. The tokens are relatively cheap and replaceable. I'm trying to make the code relatively easy to reprogram a new token into. The stickers will be a ---smurfette--- to replace though. I'll probably just order at least 2-3 stickers of each game. I'm also thinking of, instead of a bucket, putting them in a little binder with pages used for coin collectors so there are full sheets to look at and would also be easy to spot missing tokens.
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Something like this may work
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/73471 (http://lumberjocks.com/projects/73471)
Put a sticker on the coins and a matching one in the case behind each one for placement , it will be a quick visual if ones misplaced.
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Just found this Check it out
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CAPCOM-HAPP-3-POSITION-ORIGINAL-FRONT-COIN-DOOR-ARCADE-GAME-COMPLETE-SEE-PICS-/201585216981 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/CAPCOM-HAPP-3-POSITION-ORIGINAL-FRONT-COIN-DOOR-ARCADE-GAME-COMPLETE-SEE-PICS-/201585216981)
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Wow, nice find dude, thanks. Hopefully that's dirt and not rust. I'll look more closely, but it looks like the dimensions and cuts outs will match up. Will probably need some paint...
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Sorry for the delay, it was Finals/graduation week at work.
Here it is. A bit dusty, but otherwise solid.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160522/b0344f67fa56a3ea22505ffa93f60671.jpg)
If you're interested, PM me a fair offer and we'll go from there.
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Stoked to get this action done. I was putting off the final router work, but it feels good to get it done. Now I'm going through the process of re-installing Hyperspin, etc. on a different tower. My stupid wifi board won't connect up to the internet and after burning way too much time, I gave up. Just ran a cord to install. Not sure if I need wifi after it is set up anyway... :dunno
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=347954;image)
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After painting my brains out and sanding my fingers off, here is how it is coming together:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348048;image)
I need some input on t-molding colors. As you can see, the cab has a lot of black. The marquee will be something like this:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348050;image)
The side art and CP art will have some a few pics of the characters, but will have dark backgrounds. That means lots of black, some reds, a little gold and blue. And a little white with the marquee (and I might add a few webs in the corners of the side art.
I was toying with the idea of using white t-molding to kind of tie in with the marquee font and go for a look like the t-molding was spider web. But... I'm having my doubts if it will really turn out like that. Other options would be dark red which would go well with the characters or black, which would look slick but be kind of the safe pick.
Thoughts anyone? Black, red or white??
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(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348052)
Based solely on the marquee graphics, I would go with red t-molding, second choice would be white. Black is a no-go for me.
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Wow, sweet, thanks for the visual! ;D Yeah, I think black is out. For the side art, I'm looking at adding some subtle white webbing in the background, so the white might work out well. I had not considered painting the marquee mounts, but the way you did that looks pretty good.
I was thinking a dark red, but the characters will probably be a brighter red. Would everyone agree the t-molding should be the bright red like the characters? Or darker red, like a transition with the black?
I'm still undecided. I'll put up some of the side art when I get home. Maybe that will help me decide...
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Three-slot coin door should be there by Friday. Can't wait to see what you do with it!
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I like the red but you could always light it up
https://www.t-molding.com/led-t-molding-housing.htm (https://www.t-molding.com/led-t-molding-housing.htm)
should be pretty cool, You can go with RED EL Wire, or RGB Strip
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Three-slot coin door should be there by Friday. Can't wait to see what you do with it!
Thanks yotsuya, I can't wait to get it and play around with it. I'm just about ready to mount it up. I hope I can do something great with it!
I like the red but you could always light it up
LEDs always tug at my heart strings, but I think that would be a bit overloaded. I'm already planning on running a few down low, and in the buttons. I don't want too much of a Vegas feel.
Leaning toward red now. But dark red or bright red? :dunno
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I would first concentrate on getting all the art finished, maybe there will be different tones of red in it. The t-molding literally is a finishing touch, no need to worry about it now. Mayhaps you can order samples in different color tones, put one on the left side, one one the right and then decide which way you want to go. Also keep in mind that if you want to paint the marquee holders, you have to be able to match or approximately match that color to the color of the t-molding.
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Well... crap. Yotsuya was kind enough to dig out the coin door for me, but the spacing turned out to be too small for my modified mech. I would have had to modify it anyway. After much deliberation, I decided to keep it as is and just set out about modifying the 2 coin door I had. Here's a brief walkthrough:
If the existing slots had been mounted just another 1/8 inch apart I could have just squeezed the third in-between. For some reason, the designers decided to make my life a little harder. So, I had to cut a new opening in the middle for the new slot and also slide one of the existing ones over a little bit.
First, I traced a template of the cut-outs onto graph paper:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348653;image)
Then I cut out the template with an exacto knife:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348655;image)
Then I took a paint pen and colored in the cut outs:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348656;image)
Drilled out the corners:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348659;image)
I guess I forgot to take pics, but next I basically just ground out all the yellow parts. The whole proess took about 2 hours from start to finish.
Still need to loosen them up a little and re-center but here's how it came out. Not perfect, but I'm pretty pleased.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348663;image)
Thanks to Yotsuya again for working with me to get the door. I'm hoping to use it for something someday. Maybe a future build once I get a smaller RFID reader.
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Bummer the spacing didn't work, but I admire your resilience! Keeping an eye on this!
Sent from my SM-G386T using Tapatalk
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Resilience is spot on mate. Between the RFID research, tokens, programming, soldering and door mod, I've spent as much time on this one feature than anything else! Thankfully, it's finally coming together. Here's the finished RFID prototype:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348665;image)
And here it is squeezed into the center coin mech slot. FYI, I did have to remove some of the components of the coin mech to pass through the plastic tokens. But removing some of the components also allowed for some more much-needed room.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348667;image)
I got the basics working and tested! It's not battle tested, but I'll try to put up a short demo video when I get the chance. Time for a drink! :D
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Repaint of the control panel. It's no "OND" mirror finish, but about as good as it gets coming out of my workshop!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348661;image)
Got some steel bars to hold the sticks in place:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=349103;image)
Painted them white and installed with threaded inserts:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=349105;image)
The leaf switch converters from Paradise need a little notch cut out for the LED wires. Which is kind of odd since the buttons, leds and switches all came from Paradise. Anyway, this dremel attachment works perfect:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=349107;image)
Wired up the control and power switch. This plate is going on the top of the cabinet:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=349109;image)
Had a partial strip of these 12v leds left over from another project. I'm going to try and use them in the marquee and behind the speakers. They are "soft" white, so I hope they work OK and aren't too yellowish.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=349111;image)
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I got the coin door all straightened out and put back together. As I described in the first post, the third middle slot is the Spidey Sense Game Select System ;D. I have only set up a couple of the RFID coins so far for test purposes. I should be able to expand it to around 50 or so without too much work.
Here's a short video of the system in action. It has no real "front end" at this point, so it's kind of raw. But, of course, the whole point is to avoid the use of a front end.
http://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&feature=vm&video_id=pfXv2DhGA4Y (http://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&feature=vm&video_id=pfXv2DhGA4Y)
The video shows me alternating the coins between TopGunner to SuperTank and back to TopGunner. The first thing it does is exit out of the current MAME instance and then launches the new one. I built in some pauses to ensure things do not happen too fast. I will gradually reduce these to an acceptable amount. I also built in a 5 second "lockout" between coins because trying to exit out of MAME before the startup sequence is complete was giving me some trouble. I might need to make it 10 seconds or more.
I'm ordering some custom decals for the coins, so I can't wait to get that. I'll post some more pics when those puppies come in!
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Okay now that is bad ass! Great job! :applaud:
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Here's a little sneak peek of some coins to show what a badass job SlammedNiss did on them. http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,130477.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,130477.0.html)
Unfortunately, I misplaced the order of blank coins. So now I have to wait for an order from China to come in to finish the rest. :banghead:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=350760;image)
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Absolutely love the Token scenario. I've been looking to make a cab for a primary school I work for, but was struggling with how to make it a reward. The potential to use this makes me giddy.
Any chance of pointers towards where you got your ideas or instructions for it?
Love the build to date. Keep it up.
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For artwork, especially if you return to SM + WW, consider an art split like the Ms. Pac/Galaga reunion machine. Left side art Spidey, righ side art The Amazon. Do a cool custom split for marquee, cpo, and bezel (kickplate if you go there as well). Could be quite cool. A Marvel/D.C. crossover I'd read/watch. Also as others have said, stick to the comic styling.
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Any chance of pointers towards where you got your ideas or instructions for it?
Absolutely. I was just trying to think of ways to make the cab more approachable to kids and technologically challenged adults. Plus I'm not sure about putting labels on my buttons. So navigating the menus of a front end is a little challenging, even if you have LEDBlinky showing the controls. I figured RFID tags would make it a snap. There are a lot of ways to implement. You could have a hole and put RFID nails into it, a slot for cards or even just a sleeve for the coins. I just happened to get hooked on the coin slot method because I thought it integrated more easily. I initially tried to add the reader onto an existing coin slot (like P1 or P2) but I couldn't get the mechs to work correctly with the light weight plastic tokens. I had something going with ceramic/glass tokens but they used a different communication protocol and wouldn't work with my reader. Eventually, it was just easier to add the third slot.
I'm happy to answer any questions you have. There are a lot of possibilities, especially if you have coding skills (unlike me!). :D
Left side art Spidey, righ side art The Amazon. Do a cool custom split for marquee, cpo, and bezel (kickplate if you go there as well). Could be quite cool. A Marvel/D.C. crossover I'd read/watch. Also as others have said, stick to the comic styling.
Yeah, I'm going with Spiderman right side, Spiderwoman left side. I have some new pics I need to get posted....
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Wires wires wires
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=350816;image)
Side art. Brad printed these out for me. I used the "tuck" technique where the vinyl is tucked under the t-molding. Gotta use a heat gun and press it down.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=350814;image)
And with the control panel and t-molding in:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=350818;image)
Lotta red on this puppy! :D
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(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=350843;image)
Shipment of tokens in from China. Woot.
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Hi guys. So, I committed the sin of getting 95% complete and moving it in and starting to play on it and neglecting some finishing touches. Life got in the way too, so I'm going to finish this puppy up now.
I was hoping to get some feedback about marquee lighting. I used a bunch of cool white LEDs to light up my marquee, but it seems like I either have too much light or I need a warmer color spectrum. The blacks look too purple and washed out to me. It also seems too bright overall compared to the rest of the cab.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=359630;image)
Don't a lot of cabs use florescent bulbs with a cooler color? I guess my dilemma is do I cut the number of cool LEDs that I have in there or switch to a strand of "warm" white LEDs?
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Are the LED's directed straight at the marquee?
If so you want to difuse the light and reflect it back.
I made my diffuser like so:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170620/4ac95ed4f1706211fa8004ee1328fe6e.jpg)
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Yeah, I pointed them toward it and used like 6 strands back and forth. I'm thinking maybe I went overkill on the number of LEDs...
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WOW awesome build. :applaud:
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Thanks bud.
I opened up the marquee section and the LED strips had collapsed into a big mess:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=359865;image)
I switched over to a "warm" LED strand for comparision:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=359867;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=359869;image)
Looking at the pictures, I like the warm LEDs better, but in real life I thought the whites looked too yellow. So, I decided to go back to the cool white LEDs. But... I cut about 3 feet off of the strand. I also cleaned up most of the light bleed out of the sides. I'm happy with the results now.
I also ran some red LEDs behind the speakers since they were a sort of diffused white cones anyway. They look kind of orange in the pics, but they're a deeper red in person. The back light sort of makes the spider grills stand out. :)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=359871;image)
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Yeah way to many LEDs there to start LOL
Nice job with the grills they look awesome!!
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Yeah way to many LEDs there to start LOL
Nice job with the grills they look awesome!!
I did the same with my build at first! Ended up cutting off ~4ft because they were so bright!
Gotta say, I love the cab design/name.
Sent from my SM-G530R4 using Tapatalk
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SPIDEY SENSE SYSTEM COMPLETE!
So with the help of BadMouth and a tool by “kasty”, I was able to clean up and finalize the Spidey Sense anti-front-end system. Calling it a front-end is kind of a misnomer since you really never see any kind of menu screen except when the system first launches. The whole point was to do away with the typical front-end, menu-driven experience and substitute it with a tactile, physical experience. Here it is in a nutshell.
At the initial power on, the Spidey Sense system boots up (through Windows) and the user is greeted with a sort of splash screen. I have a generic Spiderman pic for now, but I’ll probably swap it for something else.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=360385;image)
The user then grabs a game token. Here is a pile of various tokens.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=360389;image)
I struggled with a way to store and access the tokens. I went with a binder using display sheets for coin collectors.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=360375;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=360379;image)
Each page has labels for easy reading.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=360377;image)
I have to say, I am not totally satisfied with this approach. The tokens are not very easy to remove if you have fat adult-sized thumbs (but the kids seem to have an easier time with it). They also slip out too easily if the binder is turned upside down. Still waiting for that perfect approach to come to me after a few beers.
I also have what I call the “Rotating Handle” page. This gives me 20 tokens to rotate in and out and assign a temporary slot to see what we like. I’ve loaded it with a lot of sports games at the moment to play around with.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=360381;image)
I’ll probably trick out the list with some marquee graphics when I get some time.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=360387;image)
Once the user picks a token, the execution is easy as pie. Just stick it in the special middle yellow glowy slot and after a delay of about a second, the game fires up. The token passes right through and back out the coin return. Best practice is to immediately take it out and put it away. :)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=360383;image)
Here’s kind of a lame picture of the RFID reader mounted to the coin mech.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=360371;image)
When the user wants to switch games, there is no need to back out or press any keystrokes. Badmouth helped me modify MAME to accept directinput, so the software can execute the keystroke to exit. All you have to do is put the next game token in and the system does the rest! There’s a brief flash of the windows screen and then the next game starts up. It’s great for kids and random adults. The best part is, at parties I don’t get nagged every 10 minutes to change the game. It’s so simple an ape can operate it. With LEDblinky lighting up the buttons to use, the system is just about as basic as a multi-game system can get!
Honestly, I find myself just using the tokens most of the time for my favorite games. I have a Hyperspin install as well which I use to browse the library for new games. You don’t get previews or other fancy stuff with this anti-frontend setup, but hey, previews only tell you so much about payability anyway. :P It’s kind of nice how someone else can browse the catalog while others are playing...
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Awesome to see you got this going properly :)
Great job!
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Thought of this build the other day. The local drive in (yes, there are still some floating around). Has Spiderman playing back to back with Wonder Woman....lol.
Love this build, looking great! :applaud:
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Very nice!! We need a final walk through vid :P
Tried to think of a way to store the tokens but man...that is difficult. I think the card sleeve approach is probably the best if you want to see everything all laid out like that.
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Working on a little video. :)
I wish I had painted the tokens gold before I put the decals on. :-[
I'll probably make some entirely unnecessarily glorified way to push a button to select the coin, have it roll down a chute, activate a laser and then start the game. :P
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Sweet! I love your idea of the spider sense game selection! Another 1st, I think?
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This is a very cool cab with an out of the box way of selecting games. I am super impressed by the end result. Congrats! :cheers:
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Thanks guys. Here's a quick and dirty video. Hopefully it is easier to see it in action how the RFID system works.
RFID Launch System:
! No longer available (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=umntVeVjhxs&t=72s#)
https://youtu.be/umntVeVjhxs (https://youtu.be/umntVeVjhxs)
I thought we used to have embedded video tags? Oh well, the link above should work.
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Nice work! I like the color scheme' lighting and the RFID token game activate is novel. You may end up finding a coin tray easier to pick tokens from than the plastic sleeves but all in all a great idea! :cheers:
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Thanks OND. I hope I have lived up to the vision you had for the cabinet design you put out there all those years ago. Credit to you for all of the work you shared with us so generously. :)
I even thought about those little quarter donation cards they have at checkout stands. I'm close to something, I can almost sense a solution at the edge of my consciousness...
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I am excited to start in on the next element of this. Plans are in the works for a magic token (name TBD). This will be a token which will launch a random game within a predefined list. I think I just have to create an array of the games and then select randomly from within.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=360864;image)
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Test run looks good! I'm thinking of random genre sets of special tokens based on BadMouth's "All Killer" sets. http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,149708.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,149708.0.html) It's going to kind of suck cutting and pasting the names in one at a time, but the lists aren't too long so it shouldn't take me all that long. It'll be a fun way to explore some new games or set up a challenge where the players don't know exactly what is going to come up. I might make some mini-random 5-game ones to add to the revolving handle.
I envisioned the ebony token as a token to take me into the dark depths of the entire MAME library, but it's just too labor intensive and probably not very desirable anyway with all the slots and other ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- that doesn't even work. :dunno
They key will be something like this:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=361093;image)
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Stooooked! Got random tokens working for Badmouth's "Classics" and "Sports" sets. It's not as labor intensive as I thought it would be to enter in each name. Mostly because the lists aren't really too long. I've had a lot of fun popping in one of the randomized tokens and seeing what comes up.
Even better, by going through the process of creating the arrays of games, I had to come up with a more feasible way to execute the launch sequence. For the regular tokens, I had a separate .bat file to launch each one. I can't even remember why I did it that way, but it was a PITA to make a file for each game. Well... I ditched that crappy method and did away with the .bat files altogether. Not only is it a ten times easier to add a game now, it also completely does away with the cmd prompts that used to pop up on the splash screen as it switched games. Now you just see the splash screen! Stoked! :laugh:
Next up SHMUPS!
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I've been playing around with dressing up the tokens a bit. I've been trying to get them to resemble something other than white plastic wafers or something you would put on someone's tongue in church. :D
Here's the first one. I weathered it a little to make it more interesting. The numbers are obviously backward so I'll have to fix that. If you can't tell, the imprint is two crossed pistols. I'll probably assign it to be a random game from the "RUN 'N GUN" category.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=361427;image)
Peace and have a great week!
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Yeah, but can you play Galaga?
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Lol, ain't that the truth? I know a lady that screams "Galaga???!?" every time the subject of an arcade comes up. I had a friend over the other day say "WOOOW, I didn't know that thing could play Dig-Dug!"
Now that you mention it, I think I'll make a tricked out Galaga token and dangle it from a string off the marquee. :D
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Finally found a token display solution that I like. Makes it super easy to view, grab and replace them. Plexi square with some slots cut into it. Did some test runs with some mini saw blades I found on Amazon. I did a lot of trial and error. It was hard to come up with a process to cut little angled notches into the plexi. Especially without a table saw. I thought cutting a groove straight across would work, but I have no table saw and I thought individual cut-outs would look better too. Doing it by hand was... well, you can imagine! So I came up with this, where I angled the drill press bed and then just swung the entire bed back and forth. Not super precise, but good enough.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=367000;image)
Blades were a little too thin so I jammed a piece of plastic in the collar to make it wobble a little and cut a wider slot.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=366998;image)
Here's the results:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=367004;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=367002;image)
I'm up in the air about how to frame it out. In the above, I tried some L corner pieces, but I'm not hot on the look. Makes it look like a tray. For some reason I feel like it needs some kind of frame out, but I can't decide how or if I should paint it, etc. I kind of like it sans frame like this:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=367006;image)
I like it all clear. But... I kind of need something across the front to hold the LED strip in place. :dunno
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I would try using 4 l-shaped pieces of aluminum to make a sort of flat frame. Cut off the upper corners at a 45 degree angle, use the lower parts to press the led tape against the plexi and doubletape the upper parts to the top of the plexi.
Other than aluminum, you could use thin metal/plastic and spraypaint it (either the color the leds give off or the color of the shelf the thing sits on).
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I've got some aluminum, but without any bare metal on the cabinet, it wouldn't really match the style (although it would look cool riveted into the plexi). I've got some metallic red spray paint. Maybe I'll give that a test run...
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I decided to go with no borders at all. Sort of. I found some copper tape in one of my drawers which happened to be the exact same width as the thickness of the plexi. Since I needed a way to run power from the LED strip in the front to the back, it seemed like a perfect marriage! The LED strip has a copper like back to it anyway, so it sort of matches. It also gives it a pretty clean look and sharp corners.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=367351;image)
From there, I just soldered the + around one way and the - around the other.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=367353;image)
And then a little piggy tail wire in off the back side:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=367355;image)
I was stressing (unnecessarily) over the shelving to put the little display on (glass, metal...) . Then I remembered I had some extra T-molding left over from the cab and figured I would just make a little shelf out of the same ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=367357;image)
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Here it is next to the cab:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=367361;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=367363;image)
Sadly, I am not too fond of the red LEDs for the token display. I might swap it for white.... :(
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2 questions.
What if you have a guest that wants to play a game you don't have a token for. Is there a "manual selector" or do you have to make a token to load the game.
Did you make a "Random" token yet?
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I had not seen this thread until today - very nice work!!
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Thanks Perkins
What if you have a guest that wants to play a game you don't have a token for. Is there a "manual selector" or do you have to make a token to load the game.
Making new tokens is not necessarily difficult, but it still does take a few minutes. Mostly finding the ROM name to assign to the RFID takes the most time. I have the Rotating Handle of 20 which works well if have a certain game we are really into that month but not a permanent favorite. If it is a situation where a guest requests a specific game outside of the token library, I can back out of the token front end and get into Hyperspin with a couple button presses. It's the only way to tackle the entire arcade library.
Did you make a "Random" token yet?
A few. The question on these is the scope. I'm probably not going to do a true random of every game in the system. I do have some random genre ones done. So far I have SHMUPS, Run N Gun, Classics, Sports and I also have one that randomly selects from the token bank. I'm planning for a few more genres and then a Random of All Random token. That will be the closest to a universal random token, pulling from a few hundred games. Finishing these random tokens is something I need to finish off once the display is finished. I like them; it's pretty fun having a surprise pop up that you wouldn't normally seek out to intentionally play.
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Ugh, sometimes no matter how much planning you do, you still realize as soon as you finish that you made a wrong turn. The red light on the display matches the cabinet well and looks cool, but it washes out the token labels and makes them difficult to read. I think I need to swap the LED strip out for a white one. Any thoughts on this? On a test piece, it definitely helps... :-\
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=367372;image)
In the mean time, I think I found a way to avoid the need for any kind of keyboard pullout. I found this little keyboard. It was intended to be used with a ps3 controller so it is really compact. Obviously it has some limitations with keys, but it should get me through enough to avoid needing a full keyboard 95% of the time.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=367376;image)
I was going to mount it to the top of the cab out of view, but I think it has an even better home tucked under the token shelf.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=367374;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=367370;image)
Grab and go! :)
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Didn't see this one until today, but I must say that the idea with game specific tokens is really great. Even a drunk non-gamer friend can operate this - assuming he/she knows the name of the game ::)
Well done :applaud:
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I like the white much better. Function over form.
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Swapped for the white lights. Went with the functionality. I might dim it down a little. Seems a little bright.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=368691;image)
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I realized I never posted the control panel, so here it is. Pretty simple and spacious. I like the extra room around the ball.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=368703;image)
Each side has a Coin button (lit up) and the left side has an admin button (shift function).
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=368701;image)
Right side has the USB/Mic/Headphone jack.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=368695;image)
I also put a key on the left side. This is a shutoff for the coin buttons. When disengaged, the lights on them go dark. The key also disengages the admin button, so no backing out of games, changing volume, etc. It sort of turns it into more of a classic setup.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=368693;image)
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I like the key for the coin buttons.. nicely done :applaud:
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So each coin will automatically launch the corresponding game once it is inserted? How does that work? RIFD technology or something?
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I like the key for the coin buttons.. nicely done :applaud:
With crazed 8-year-olds running around, disengaging the coin buttons slows them down a little and turning off the admin functions definitely avoids system issues from button spazzing. :laugh:
So each coin will automatically launch the corresponding game once it is inserted? How does that work? RIFD technology or something?
Yep. RFID. Each of the tokens on the display will launch the game it is associated with. They are inserted into the golden middle coin slot on the coin door. I did a short video on it up above somewhere in my terribly unorganized, messy thread...
I'm still working on putting together the random game genre tokens. I have the software figured out but I'm trying to trick out the tokens a little. I just got a 3d printer so I'm trying to see if I can print custom tokens with some texture or raised graphics on them. I'll post some pics if I ever get anywhere. :)
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I followed the link from my project to yours. Gorgeous! Congrats! & the magic tokens r soooo cool :applaud:
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Well, sometimes you gotta post your fails too. Maybe if I had more experience painting little figures I would be better at this but cutting, pasting and painting at the size of a quarter is too small for me. :(
Here are the custom tokens I made for the genres of "Run n Gun" and "Classics".
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=370208;image)
But, they're destined for the trash. I'm working on a totally different method which should be a lot better.
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I finally have a little update. I bailed on trying to make the custom tokens look metallic. I also bailed on trying to make with raised, textured surfaces with paint and all that. It was just too hard to work with such small surfaces and just wasn't getting the level of detail that I wanted.
So I shifted gears and went with glass instead. These are (mostly) etched glass with the RFID wafers mounted to the backs. Learned a lot about light and glass interactions in the process. There were a lot of failed attempts, but I eventually produced a set of 8 tokens to launch random games within each of the defined genres of MAME games. Here are the tokens for Puzzle, VS fighters, Classics, HackNSlash, Sports, Platformers, SHMUPS and RunNGun:
Under Light:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=372316;image)
To make them more visible and give them more of a cool factor, I embedded them with some glow powder. Here they are with the lights off:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=372318;image)
Classics token:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=372320;image)
SHMUPS:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=372323;image)
The glow additive makes them glow for a while after they are removed from the display. Kind of cool to have it glow in your hand like it's radioactive before you put it in the machine. :D
Still need to polish up a bit. Almost have the coding finished up for each of them.
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Incredible, well done.
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That is very very cool! Well done! :applaud:
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very nice!!! Excellent execution on those tokens
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Thanks guys. I was stoked to get something decent after all the trial and error. At some point I am going to spread out all of my failed attempts (I like to call them "ways to not make a light bulb") and take a picture of them. It's a big ass stack. :D
I went with green glow additive because it is the brightest. But now it seems I have enough power from the blacklights that I can maybe do different colors. I thought it might be cool to use orange for the basketball, etc. There are about 8 different glow colors, but I'll have to get a sample pack to see how well they all work. I have a feeling the the red and purple ones aren't going to be very impressive.
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Wow that is probably the coolest thing I've seen for a while. Massive kudos on persevering and the end result does you credit (long time watcher, first time commenter :))
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Those are really unique and impressive. Nicely done. :applaud: