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Looks like the board also has a brand.
It seems Italian.

The tube is 28". Why does the board says 17"?   

Well....I don't know for sure. It came with the arcade.

From my searches online it's a Dual Frequency Philips A66EAK552X11. Thats is the correct model number but I don't know if it is Philips or not and don't know if it is dual frequency.
I've attached some pictures.

This was called "fusion" I think--I have a full size jpg of it but no vector art. 

Hi JayBee, just to let you know I have just made the donation for the software and license... my details should be with the PayPal payment.
Name: Mark Godfrey
Discord: MarkJG
Transaction ID: 5BW697646B3640237
Thanks.

Ok, will go nuts with the multimeter when I get home.

Try checking voltages in different places (like PC case, TV video ground, grounds on transcoders, GPU video outputs, cable "shields") to see what is buzzing. Check AC voltage too. To pin it down, then unplug connectors to see if the voltages are still present.

Forgive one amateur question; when checking things that OUGHT to be ground, but might not, what's the other reference point?  Some earth ground external to the whole system?

A new PSU may improve things. PCs can leak significant current to earth ground - it depends largely on the power supply. This might not be an issue if all is grounded properly. Is it grounded properly to and through the mains? Some electricians cut corners and don't bother.  I've measured 220v at a PC case before (in Thailand, usually no ground pin available), but measuring ~10-12v and zaps through forearms when using laptops is not unusual.

How would I go about testing the PSU other than just seeing if the chassis is, in fact, constantly hot?  I know the cable directly coming out of it is good and plugging into the power system that is at least self-reporting as properly grounded.  I'll check every length of that tonight for shorts as well.

How are the transcoders powered? From a separate power brick? These can give very variable performance. It may be better to power directly from PC via USB or molex.

The Shinybow was getting its power from its own brick.  The RGB2COMP was plugged in to PC USB...  though sometime during The Incident I swapped it to an external power brick because I wondered if it wasn't actually getting power from the PC.  Now I'm not 100% sure whether its arc happened while it was plugged in to the PC or when it had separate power.  Probably when separate, but it was already somehow fried BEFORE I switched it to external power...  as there was already no video coming through it, only audio.

I wonder if your "Bandridge switcher" was providing enough AC coupling and ground isolation or whatever to protect your transcoders.

It's an auto-scart switch, maybe.  One of these: https://videogameperfection.com/2016/10/20/bandridge-selector-review/

Try checking voltages in different places (like PC case, TV video ground, grounds on transcoders, GPU video outputs, cable "shields") to see what is buzzing. Check AC voltage too. To pin it down, then unplug connectors to see if the voltages are still present.

A new PSU may improve things. PCs can leak significant current to earth ground - it depends largely on the power supply. This might not be an issue if all is grounded properly. Is it grounded properly to and through the mains? Some electricians cut corners and don't bother.  I've measured 220v at a PC case before (in Thailand, usually no ground pin available), but measuring ~10-12v and zaps through forearms when using laptops is not unusual.

Maybe your GPU card is shorting somehow? Can you test that too?

I wouldn't rule out the TV, but if the TV is the source, suggests a failure of the DC rectification/SMPS and you would expect to see other problems.

How are the transcoders powered? From a separate power brick? These can give very variable performance. It may be better to power directly from PC via USB or molex.

I wonder if your "Bandridge switcher" was providing enough AC coupling and ground isolation or whatever to protect your transcoders.

So, assuming that PC, transcoders and TV all rectify their own local DC power and DC ground levels (this is not the same as earth ground). There can be a significant difference between three DC levels, and where there is a difference in voltage potential you can get problems. If not zaps, you might just get interference or other issues. Powering the transcoder from the PC may reduce this potential variance and associated issues.

what monitor is it?

Hi everyone.

I have an arcade cabinet with CRT monitor connected to a PC with a J-PAC and an ArcadeVGA. Everything worked fine although I could not get the image to 'fit' vertically. The monitor's Vsize was already at the maximum.
Last week I decided to upgrade my PC. I got a newer board and a newer gfx card. I am now using an ATI HD5450 which I flashed with ATOM to get the 15khz output and I use crtemu driver for display.
I all works BUT... now I have an even smaller vertical size picture (see attached image). The vsize adjustment on the monitor is already at maximum.

Is there any way I can 'expand' the image? What do I need to change? Resolution? Refresh?
Any setting on the gfx card or driver?

Thanks in advance,
Mike

Already rebuilt chassis for tubes that size are harder to find than ones for 19s so therefore more $$.
Try klov

Something is shorted obviously but some pictures will be necessary for any good advice I think.
You may have killed part of the pc too if you shorted power from the Shinybow to the pc case (which should be grounded if plugged in with a 3 prong plug.)

Need to verify ground continuity and then voltage coming into the cabinet first and then go from there.