The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: lomoverde on January 26, 2021, 03:28:22 pm
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Hello all,so as my area went back into semi lockdown,i took the chance to use my free time to build a cabaret cab using the Tully plans.
I bought 4 sheets of ply which were supposed to be 122cm x 61cm,i picked them up click and collect and my first schoolboy error of this build was not measuring them.I threw them in the car,and when i got them home found them to be 120cm x 60cm (a size they dont even stock on there website) Anyway,i couldnt return them for a while so ill just get on with it.
Initially i thought id be lacking height compared to the original plans,as i wanted the sides low to the ground.But as recomended to me,sitting it on a base would be a good option.So here it goes:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386169;image)
First side cut to the Tully plans,Then rough cut the second side,stuck them together with double sided tape.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386170;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386171;image)
So with the panels clamped down and ready to rock,you can just see the only thing to do was unclamp them and flip it all over as i only have a top bearing flush trim bit and the job was upside down :-[
I do have a bottom bearing pattern bit somewhere,and do prefer using that.But the top bearing bit does have the advantage that the panels dont have to be overhanging and clear of the work surface,the bit will never be lower than the template,so wont foul on the bench.
I then cut the other panels from the plans,cleaning the factory edges with the router,and am just lacking the back door,which will have to wait until after lockdown.
This is my first time building with plywood,ive built a couple of bartops with mdf,and didnt want to use it again.I have since found out that the plywood has different quality grades per side.I got lucky and ended up with the slightly inferior surfaces both facing in on the side panels.Not a biggie,but should save a bit of work come sanding and painting time.
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Good start. I'd round over those 3 sharp corners on the top - not as severe as the rounded corners on the bottom but just hit them with some sandpaper to smooth it out. T-molding doesn't like sharp angles.
Are you definitely painting it? I've had some good luck with vinyl siding - goes on like a sticker and is super cheap ($8 per side if I recall correctly). Just have to prep the surface (sand and prime) but you have to do that anyway if you paint.
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Good start. I'd round over those 3 sharp corners on the top - not as severe as the rounded corners on the bottom but just hit them with some sandpaper to smooth it out. T-molding doesn't like sharp angles.
Are you definitely painting it? I've had some good luck with vinyl siding - goes on like a sticker and is super cheap ($8 per side if I recall correctly). Just have to prep the surface (sand and prime) but you have to do that anyway if you paint.
This was a few days ago,and i have indeed rounded them corners.
To tell you the truth although ive been wanting to build this for ages,im a bit undecided about a lot of things,paint included.I havent been able to source any laminate,which was my first idea.
So i had some lengths of timber from some other job and made the base.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386174;image)
Id have liked this to be a bit better quality,but my mitre box was to small to use,and im not an experienced woodworker really.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386175;image)
Im hoping just the screws thru the top will provide enough strength.Later i will add some blocking to accomodate some levelers like below.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386176;image)
Anyway after sanding,and checking the sides,its ended up lovely and square,and fits snugly inside the panels.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386177;image)
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For a couple of days i was trying to source some reasonably priced t-molding,finally buying from a supplier in my country.It looks from the photos to be decent quality,but to be honest,i decided on it because i already had a 2mm slot cutter that it recomends.Most of the usual suppliers recomend a 1.6mm slot cutter and i didnt want to add the expense.
So today it was back outside to give the neighbours cars a light sprinkling of sawdust. ;D
I had a couple of hiccups with the depth moving slightly while cutting,but only slightly.Actually my panels are 18mm,and the t-molding is 3/4" so im hoping any slight deviation from centre wont be seen.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386179;image)
Once the sides were done,i then slotted the top panel,and the front of the bezel/CP.
Then i could start assembling the panels and see how it looked.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386180;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386182;image)
The front panel is still only rough cut along the top,im still unsure where my CP will sit so i wanted to leave myself options.
Also the back top panel is not fitted,its held in place by friction.I want it to be easily removable if theres any problems with the tv in the future,and am undecided yet how it will attach.
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So im almost all caught up on the build thread.
I started decasing the tv last week.A bit soon in the build process,but the thing is dominating my dreams now :banghead:
I followed Javeryh s thread closely and learnt the tv can sit on 2 seperate brackets instead of me struggling to cut an accurate hole in the bezel.Thats given me some ideas.
Im going for vertical orientation.Its only a 14" and im a bit unsure its big enough.Theres a lot of empty space either side of the screen (about 10cm),i briefly thought of slimming the whole cab(only briefly) so am going to see how it looks once mounted.
Anyway,i dont think im doing a great job of resizing my photos,and there now failing security checks,so ill read up on that and hopefully upload some more soon.
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Looks like you're off to a good start on this. I'm kinda surprised you don't have a drawing or visual plan to go off of! I wouldn't be brave enough to just start with building. As far as your thought on wanting to keep a section easily removable, consider threaded inserts. I'm using them all over the place in my build and they work quite well.
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Looks like you're off to a good start on this. I'm kinda surprised you don't have a drawing or visual plan to go off of! I wouldn't be brave enough to just start with building. As far as your thought on wanting to keep a section easily removable, consider threaded inserts. I'm using them all over the place in my build and they work quite well.
I dont think up until now plans have really been important.Its such a basic design its genius.I think the threaded inserts will indeed be the way to go :cheers:
Its the tv and how to mount it thats slowed my progress to a crawl now.
If anyone could give me there opinion on a couple of things i would appreciate it.
First off ive made a template of my tv screen and am wanting to know if its going to look to small? All i can see at the moment is that bare space to the left and right.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386202;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386203;image)
Second,as i stand at the cab,and place my hands where the controls will be,the top panel just overlaps my view of the top of the monitor.
The front of the CP will be lowered by 15mm(you can just see the marks on the front panel).This will create a slightly steeper angle to the CP,and lower my hands while playing so the monitor in its current position will be perfectly unobstructed.
So i have 19cm front of CP to bottom edge of screen.Should i maybe reduce this and slide the monitor forward a little?
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386205;image)
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What kind of controls are you thinking about? The screen size is probably fine. I also think bigger is better (up to 25") but a lot of these cabarets back in the day had 13" monitors. Once you are playing you will be fixated on the screen so it won't be as big of a deal. Especially if the entire area is covered with glass and a black bezel of some kind (no bezel art).
The one I'm building has a similar issue when playing vertical games. I have a 17" CRT but it's installed 4:3 so 3:4 games have bars plus I have about 2.5" on each side from the side panel to the edge of the monitor. So that plus the black bars is probably 4" or so. It seems good to play so I think you will be fine. Test it though if you have the monitor laying around.
As for the viewing angle, can you move the monitor forward at all? I like the angle of the CP and anything else might be too steep. You need about 6" in height for the CP for a joystick and a couple of buttons. If you are trying to squeeze a trackball in there you might need more room.
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What kind of controls are you thinking about? The screen size is probably fine. I also think bigger is better (up to 25") but a lot of these cabarets back in the day had 13" monitors. Once you are playing you will be fixated on the screen so it won't be as big of a deal. Especially if the entire area is covered with glass and a black bezel of some kind (no bezel art).
Im probably going to go joystick,3 action buttons,player 1 player 2 and an exit.
So if i give myself 6" for the CP i´ll try the screen dead centre.
I actually also have a 17"pc crt i won for 1 euro on ebay.I dont know if its this model in particular,but it seems to lack brightness running mame.Also the scanlines i tried were a bit naff.
And do you not like bezel art ?
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I do not like bezel art unless it is the real deal. I'm not a huge fan of the digital stuff - seems distracting - but I'm sure I'd get used to it.
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Last week i took the back off the tv.Like most the whole tube is attached to the front bezel section by 4 corner bolts.The circuit board is held in the bottom section of the plastic case.
I placed it face down on a towel,undid the 4 bolts and slid the cicuit board out of the tray.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386225;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386226;image)
I then got a scrap of wood,and shaped it to the tube,marking the holes for the brackets as well.Its a bit of a rough job,mainly hacking away with a rasp until i got it near enough.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386228;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386229;image)
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Next i used the scrap of wood id shaped to transfer the arc and hole position on to 2 larger boards.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386230;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386231;image)
I decided to hack up the plastic tv case and use the housing to keep the circuit board in place and protected.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386233;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386234;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386235;image)
Tomorow when the glue on the bracket has dried,ill reattach the cable running round the tube.And ive knocked up a stand for the tv so i can test its still working before i think about putting it in the cab.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386237;image)
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That's an interesting approach to mounting a monitor. I may have a similar project soon and am curious to see how this turns out.
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When i got back to the cab today,the glue had set on the brackets to hold the circuit board in place.
The clips that held the degausing coil in place could no longer fit around the TVs corner brackets,so ive hooked them around some small screws ive put in the wooden panels.Theyre pulled quite tight to the tube and from memory in the similar position so hopefully all is good.
I couldnt wait any longer and flipped the tv over and mounted it on the temporary stand i"d made.The TV is actually quite light,and having the wood to hold makes it really easy to manouvre.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386239;image)
So happy when it came alive after the fortnight it had spent face down out of its case ;D
Then i took measurements of the distance from the face of the brackets to the highest point of the screen.Fitted the battens running parallel with the CP/Glass line.Then slid the monitor in place.
All told the TV was only in the stand id made for about an hour,but it will give me somewhere to safely store it when i break the cab down for painting later.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386240;image)
And a view from behind:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386241;image)
Just a couple of questions tho,as im in unknown territory for me:
The highest point of the TV screen is only 12mm below the glass,am i to close to have room for a card bezel?
Also the TV innards look very exposed now,would trying to box that area in for safety be normal?.Obviously the rear door would be locked anyway.
And last one i promise,what are typical dimensions for one of these small marquees ?
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Cool project. Looks good overall. I would play with that monitor angle. Seems pretty flat. You could shim it up with some cardboard or the like to see if prefer a different angle. :dunno:
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Cool project. Looks good overall. I would play with that monitor angle. Seems pretty flat. You could shim it up with some cardboard or the like to see if prefer a different angle. :dunno:
Your correct,and looks like ive made the first real kicking myself mistake so far. :banghead:
I just assumed the moniter should be on the same plane as the CP. When i stand in front of it now,the top of the screen (high score area ) is sort of disapearing over the horizon of the screen curve.
I can see test what its like propped up at the back,ive a bit to spare before the screen will reach the glass,but will it look odd i dont know.And id planned on making a card bezel,that will be trickier if the screen is sloping but ill try later.Cheers
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Looking good. You mounted that monitor a lot quicker than I mounted mine that's for sure. I wish I had known or thought of the two piece mounting method instead of spending ages trying to cut the exact monitor shape out of MDF.
How are you going to wake the TV when you turn the cabinet on? Most TVs I've seen need to be turned on separately (unlike a computer monitor which can be on but sleeping). I don't think you need to cover the tube/chassis on the insides. Most cabinets back in the day left everything exposed - no one will be able to see or more importantly touch it when you are all finished.
As for the angle, you can easily shim near the top so don't even sweat it. For the marquee, mine is 37mm x 11mm roughly. YMMV - there's no "right" answer to this unfortunately because all marquees are sized differently. Whatever you decide, just make sure to keep the width to height ratio proportional. My cabinet is 18" wide so this looked best to me. If I had a bigger cabinet I would have upscaled the marquee opening to make it look more pleasing to the eye. If you are doing. digital marque, you will be stretching a lot of the art so don't worry about it. Took me a while to accept that part of it.
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Well its thanks to Zebidee i was spared the pain of cutting a screen shaped hole,i read his post in your build thread.Also as it was in 2 halves,i didnt have to disconnect all the wires and circuit boards to get it thru the hole.For this reason i skirted the issue of discharging aswell.
The TV returns to its last state when power was cut.Im using the read only win7 build (no need to worry about corruption).So 1 power rocker switch on and off for the lot.
In fact most CRT TVs i have do this,maybe its a european thing ?
Digital marquee ???maybe my next Tully. ;D
Shouldnt be long before i have to think about paint/art.Thanks for the tips. :cheers:
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Finally got the angle of my monitor how im happy with it,had to make a slight compromise by increasing the angle of my CP from 11 to 13 degrees (it seems more than that when i look at it but it isnt.)
In this picture you can see how ive had to run my monitor bracket at a different angle to my control panel.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386295;image)
When the monitor is in place you can see how i have a full unobstructed view of the screen while my hand is on the CP.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386298;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386297;image)
I had to cut my CP off the board that was meant to be CP/bezel all in one.I wasent sure how you incorporate the glass into this method?
Here you can see the highest point of the screen is higher than the surface of the baton,this will work well as i can fit a spacer for the glass to rest on,it will clear the screen,but be flush with the top of the CP.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386296;image)
Just thinking over methods to secure the CP.
And any ideas on holding the glass in place?
I would love to route a slot either side for it to sit in ,but that could be beyond my woodworking skills.
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Love the thread. The galaga Tully is my favorite thing I've made. I really love the design of them. Will be doing another soon 8 way 2 button horizontal monitor. Look forward to seethe rest of this
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I had to cut my CP off the board that was meant to be CP/bezel all in one.I wasent sure how you incorporate the glass into this method?
I think you did the right thing. I also have a stand alone CP and I'm going to rest the glass on the batton that holds the CP and a support block on the back of my cabinet. I will shim up the glass in the corner to make it flush with the CP and let gravity hold it in place. Shim in the front will be 1/2” (glass is 1/4” thick and CP is 3/4” thick).
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210202/5bd7a9f6fa50d910820cc68fe8a7081d.jpg)
The blue tape will obviously be removed - I have a line on it marking where I want the glass to go.
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Love the thread. The galaga Tully is my favorite thing I've made. I really love the design of them. Will be doing another soon 8 way 2 button horizontal monitor. Look forward to seethe rest of this
Cheers mate,ive read the Galaga Tully thread at least 10 times now ;D
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I think you did the right thing. I also have a stand alone CP and I'm going to rest the glass on the batton that holds the CP and a support block on the back of my cabinet. I will shim up the glass in the corner to make it flush with the CP and let gravity hold it in place. Shim in the front will be 1/2” (glass is 1/4” thick and CP is 3/4” thick).
The blue tape will obviously be removed - I have a line on it marking where I want the glass to go.
Thats exactly how mine will be,ive got loads of 8mm safety glass.Its too thick i know but its free.10mm shim and it will just clear my monitor.
Do you think routing a channel (for example under the line on your blue tape) could be done ?.Then cut the glass wider so it sits inside the slot.
im just wondering if diagonal across the ply would splinter like mad.
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I think you did the right thing. I also have a stand alone CP and I'm going to rest the glass on the batton that holds the CP and a support block on the back of my cabinet. I will shim up the glass in the corner to make it flush with the CP and let gravity hold it in place. Shim in the front will be 1/2” (glass is 1/4” thick and CP is 3/4” thick).
The blue tape will obviously be removed - I have a line on it marking where I want the glass to go.
Thats exactly how mine will be,ive got loads of 8mm safety glass.Its too thick i know but its free.10mm shim and it will just clear my monitor.
Do you think routing a channel (for example under the line on your blue tape) could be done ?.Then cut the glass wider so it sits inside the slot.
im just wondering if diagonal across the ply would splinter like mad.
You could definitely route a channel for the glass and eliminate the need for resting it on anything assuming you can disassemble your cabinet and lay the side piece flat. I would not try to route it out if everything is already glued together for safety reasons (a router can catch a knot or something and get away from you really quick if you don't have a good grip on it). I'd probably go 3/8" deep if you are using 3/4" thick side panels (or 9mm if you are using 18mm).
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So dont the days pass so quickly? Wasted a whole afternoon playing games on the cab,lost a couple of days thru bad weather,then finally while fannying about with the TVs geometry settings,i managed to brick the TV :cry:
Theres a setting in the service menu that says "vertical guard"I toggled it just to see what it did,and the screen immediately went black.Restarting did nothing,remote was totally unresponsive.I found the TV manual online,and next to "vertical guard" it says do not change :banghead:
Anyway a good few hours googling and ive managed to find a reset code,hold buttons down,turn off turn on.......and im back in again.Cabnt believe i was so stupid but hey ho.
Ive finished the top panel,and the upper back panel.Ive borrowed a circular saw,and managed to angle the joining edges them both.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386366;image)
Quite pleased with myself after id finished that part and it looks not bad.
Also had a pop at routing a groove for the glasss to slide inside,just used a bit off scrap,but am confident to do it on the actual panels when i break the cab down for paint.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386367;image)
The rear upper panel ive decided to make a bit bigger than i have to,i wanted to cover a bit of the TV tube,i know most cabs would all have it exposed but its just a bit of piece of mind.The door will be plenty big enough for pc,coin door or other maintenance tasks.And the upper panel will be easily removable.Probably with threaded inserts as vertexguy recomended.Possibly with pocket screws on the uppermost part where the batons have stopped.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386368;image)
Seems most of the woodwork is done now.To do:
Power socket fitted into lower rear panel.
ventilation?
Control Panel layout.
Marquee/coindoor/speakers.( OK so maybe ive still got a fair bit of woodwork to do.) :lol
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Across the room from this cabinet,i can see the last bartop i made.Frozen in time at the "next is the paint" stage. Bare MDF,i totally hit the wall and lost my drive at the thought of paint.
So,as ive spent many an hour staring at this job and my thoughts have been drifting towards the impending paint job.And i must admit my enthusiasm did take a dip,so i acted fast and bought some supplies.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386369;image)
High build primer,primer/sealer.The equivelent of bondo (hopefully).
Lots of sandpaper and differing grades of wet and dry.Some new spatulas,acetone,white spirit.Some decent masking tape.
And a couple of different types of roller.I have no idea what the diference is,only that the brown one cost a lot more.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386370;image)
That lot came to nearly 100euros,so its safe to say im commited to complete.
Its 100 euros now,but the tins of primer look very small,and i havent bought the top colour yet
Ive got a lot more enthusiasm back and will up the pace again.
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Awesome can't wait. Because if this, I've decided to get off ---my bottom--- and start sourcing parts for another Tully. Managed to get everything besides wood and t mounding. So I might have to start a project thread soon.
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Across the room from this cabinet,i can see the last bartop i made.Frozen in time at the "next is the paint" stage. Bare MDF,i totally hit the wall and lost my drive at the thought of paint.
It's not the paint... it's the bar top. After building one I realized that they look really cool on the internet but in practice they are just... OK, I guess? It's neat don't get me wrong but it's not really portable so where do you put it? Anyway, once you put on the primer and sand it down you will start to se the cabinet take shape. Painting is a pain but it's also the part where your project really starts looking like something more than just some wood/MDF thrown together. Get it done!!
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Awesome can't wait. Because if this, I've decided to get off ---my bottom--- and start sourcing parts for another Tully. Managed to get everything besides wood and t mounding. So I might have to start a project thread soon.
That reminds me....
Ive dismantled all the panels again,i routed out the slot inside each panel for the glass to sit in.And masked off the areas that would have batons glued to it.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386486;image)
I took one of my big pieces of 8mm safety glass to the nearest open glaziers.I asked them to cut it for me into 2 sheets the size i want ( so id have a spare,or for my next Tully) and they refused....said they didnt have the correct equipment :dunno
So i ordered a piece 6mm thick from them,i was so annoyed i didnt even think of asking for tinted,but i hadent really researched it anyway and wouldnt have known what to ask for.
Anyway,20Euros for the glass,i was expecting to pay more than that for them to cut mine,so not too bad.
Cut a hole in the lower back panel for the power socket:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386488;image)
Getting a bit more confident with the router now,so made the hole a bit tidier.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386489;image)
For some reason,my socket only has 3 terminals behind the switch,every guide on the internet has 4,so ill just buy another and hope there all the same size.
The filler i bought is just like Bondo i guess.I watched a video by Ond and have got the hang of how much to mix now and cut down on waste.
So ive filled the joins on the base.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386487;image)
Sanded that down today and it looks quite smart.
Ive sealed every panel,used Bondo on the dings and holes.When i opened up the high build primer i found another mistake.For some reason i didnt read all the label,and it is a putty,not roll on as id thought.
Anyway ive found its really good for the large areas,if i drag it across with a metal spatula it fills the grain and small scratches really well.
Spent hours sanding every panel this afternoon,the amount of dust was quite alarming at first ;D
I feel like im cutting corners a bit,but im leaving all unseen sections inside just primed.And only glaring dings filled.
Bought some black for the base,and the main colour also.
Ordered my marquee last week,but dont want to cut the front panel until it arrives,still need to buy the coin door and mount the speakers.
Sort out some ventilation (if its needed ?)
CP overlay and Bezel art.
Sideart :-\
Ive got a couple of cheap joysticks lying around,but want to buy a servostik.Bought some gols leaf buttons last week.
Seems to be racking up the costs,so some of these parts might have to wait until i can open my bar again.
So actually looking forward to seeing the top coat colour tomorrow.Just bought a small tin as im a bit unsure its right,,,but we will see.
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It's not the paint... it's the bar top. After building one I realized that they look really cool on the internet but in practice they are just... OK, I guess? It's neat don't get me wrong but it's not really portable so where do you put it? Anyway, once you put on the primer and sand it down you will start to se the cabinet take shape. Painting is a pain but it's also the part where your project really starts looking like something more than just some wood/MDF thrown together. Get it done!!
I think your right,it seems a shame to just throw it away tho,so i may just finish it quickly and use the cheap controls i bought years ago.
But for now that can wait...(possibly for several years)
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So what's the art theme? Or is it a secret?
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So what's the art theme? Or is it a secret?
Haha,no secret no.
When i was starting the build it was a toss up between my favourite game "Hunchback" or one of my favourite artworks "Scramble"
Scramble it will be.
I think the yellow ive bought is a terrible match,but ill know tomorrow.Does it even have to be identical? i dont think so.
I love the scramble bezel,and im going to try and adjust the sideart to just be a sort of oval sticker,and adapt the CP a bit.But after following some Youtube guides found its beyond my abilities ;D.
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For some reason,my socket only has 3 terminals behind the switch,every guide on the internet has 4,so ill just buy another and hope there all the same size.
. . . or look on the wiki for details on how to wire the three terminal switch version. ;D
http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/Wiring#3-Tab_Switch (http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/Wiring#3-Tab_Switch)
(http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/images/5/54/IEC3PinSwitchRear.jpg)
(http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/images/thumb/0/0c/IEC3PinSwitchWiring.jpg/630px-IEC3PinSwitchWiring.jpg)
Scott
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Aaah sorry,thats embarassing.
Ive developed a habit of flicking to google when i dont understand something or want to find something out.
Thank you for the pointer :cheers:
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Ive painted some of the panels with there first coat,and im quite pleased with it so far.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386504;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386505;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386506;image)
ive got a bit of uneven colour because im painting on the sealer/primer and patches of the high build primer.Theres a bit of orange peel in patches,but overall im pleased with the colour.
I think im right saying i can sand down this coat with 220,then apply and repeat.
Im going to give it 12 hours which will hopofuly be enough.
Also i got some good news from the government today that i can open up again on the 2nd of March.So i now have a deadline to get this thing finished.
With that in mind i cut the hole for the coin door,but Im still going to hold back with the marquee.Tomorrow Ill also have a look at the speakers.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386507;image)
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GREAT color choice. That thing pops.
I think im right saying i can sand down this coat with 220,then apply and repeat.
Im going to give it 12 hours which will hopofuly be enough.
Yup. 220 grit is fine. I would put on as many coats as you think is necessary but minimum 2. Orange peel is to be expected but it's really not as big of a deal as you think when you are painting. I have a DK with orange peel and all I see is "baby blue cabinet" and I have another pink one with a piano finish and no orange peel whatsoever and all I see is "pink cabinet". I spent a few hours max on the DK and weeks on end on the pink one so orange peel all the way for me from now on.
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Little update on progress.
Have actually quite enjoyed the painting process,Im far from great at it,but ive learnt a hell of a lot,thru trial and error,and am looking forward to nailing my next cab.This one is as good as im going to try to get it now.
Firstly Ill echo what others have said about buying decent masking tape.Removed it from my panels and had a super sharp line.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386580;image)
I decided to give the inside one quick coat to smarten it up,its not going to be seen but its removed all my pencil lines.Just one slight mistake,on one panel i taped off the wrong area.Id changed the monitor angle earlier in the build,and put the tape on the original position :banghead: Not to worry tho,ive sanded the paint off in the correct area,so the glue should bond fine.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386581;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386582;image)
Quite happy with the colour.Its bright but the parts and t-molding should set it off nice.
On the subject of t-molding,my panels are 18mm,and my molding is 19mm.Im a bit worried about marking the paint as i trim it.
Ive seen the fastcap edge trimmer,but was wondering if it will mark the paint as it slides along,or would masking tape be enough to protect it.
I saw a video on Johns Arcade where he uses the long edge on the back of his cab to place the molding , trim it ,then move it along and trim some more. This saved him having to manouvre the trimmer around the corners. (his trim was not centred btw)
I thought i could maybe slot a length of scrap and do the same.
I know someone had suggested sliding a chisel along,but dont feel confident enough for that.
Probably try to find one of those fastcap trimmers local.
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Honestly, I'd just let it hang over each edge by 0.5mm. That's almost nothing!
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Honestly, I'd just let it hang over each edge by 0.5mm. That's almost nothing!
I would do them same. It will look fine. I put zero thought into the t mold. Just slotted it, pounded it in and cut the excess.
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Honestly, I'd just let it hang over each edge by 0.5mm. That's almost nothing!
I would do them same. It will look fine. I put zero thought into the t mold. Just slotted it, pounded it in and cut the excess.
Maybe,,It feels like a hell of a lot more than 0.5mm though when i tried a small sample.
I suppose its another lesson learnt tho,I´ll never work with 18mm wood again if i can help it.
The other lesson i learnt today was next time route a slot slightly wider than the thickness of the glass :lol
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So i wrestled with the dilema of my T-molding,tried a craft knife -Naff,chisel -too risky,even tried sanding it -also naff.
I decided it probably wasent such a big deal and went ahead and put it on the cab.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386667;image)(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386668;image)
Really pleased to see it on,was still bugged by the overhang a bit tho.
Test fitted the glass,and it was a real snug fit,too snug.But no biggie,i can sand the slot a bit and it will be fine.
Problem was when i tried to fit the other panels.Couldnt get the upper back panel past the T-molding.Front panel just squeezed in,but marked the paint doing it.
Looked online and couldnt find a fastcap trimmer,so bought this one from Amazon:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386669;image)
It was only 6euros and 2 days delivery so worth a punt.
When it arrived i tried it on a test piece and found that it was garbage as it was.But after shimming up the rear of the blade so it was a steeper angle it worked ok.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386670;image) (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386671;image)
I taped the cab to protect the paint,and spent about an hour carefully going around the edges.
Final result i am really happy with.
Learning all the time.
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Looking great man....
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It looks soooooo good. Nice job on the t-molding. Sounds like the overhang was a bigger deal than I thought. What color will the front panel be? You are really moving quick with this.
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What color will the front panel be?
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Deliberated for a while thinking it would just be to much all yellow, but once the marquee,coin door and speakers are fitted i think a different colour would have been to much.
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ive reached my deadline on being able to do any major woodwork on my terrace,i open tomorrow so had to make a decision about the marquee and speakers.
First off i was hoping the marquee would have been with me by now,but the guy says there was maintenance work at the printers,so its delayed :banghead:
I was really nervous about cutting the hole before i have it,but today was crunch day so i had no choice.The dimensions of the marquee look quite tall (330mm x 124mm) when i see it now,but i kept the ratio of the original i think .
Also the speakers needed some thought,the store ive been buying parts from and is quite reliable,didnt have the size speaker grills i wanted in stock.These are also the only metal grills they carry.All the others being plastic.These would be fine if tucked up near the marquee on a normal cab,but where they are on a cabaret,at kids knee height/adults kick height, they might have a short lifespan.
So i went for an all in one sort of setup:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386674;image) (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386675;image)
The rear of the marquee is recessed to 6mm.2 sheets of 3mm perspex with the marquee sandwiched in between.The light setup ive yet to design will hold them in place.
The speakers i had bought previously for the bartop secondhand online:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386676;image)
Not bad at all,and with the built in volume setup i can place somewhere inside.
I cut some metal grill i had to sit in the recess behind the speaker hole.Then cut a panel to go over the recess,two holes for the speakers,routed out to size using the old speaker housing as a template,then routed a 45 degree angle on the hole for no other reason than i am loving using the router :applaud:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386678;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386679;image)
These will be hidden anyway by the grill.
Ive found with at lot of the internal unseen things the temptation to cut corners is quite strong ;D but ive tried to keep my standards up,to the best of my woodworking abilities anyway.
Next up is the PC i think.
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Quick update.While Ive been sanding and painting the various smaller panels,Ive been doing a bit with the PC.
I already knew i would have to decase it,as you can see here,it was a tight squeeze:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386732;image) (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386733;image)
I dismantled the PC,the CPU heatsink bracket is one of the ones where the bolts go thru the motherboard and screw into the case.So i just used a couple more PCB feet as nuts to screw into.They also provide some support in the centre of the motherboard.the motherboard is then attached to a board with more PCB feet.Pretty standard i guess:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386734;image)
Now it was just a case of recreating the case setup.But instead of the cpu fan drawing air in thru the rear of the case.It would be drawing air in thru the cabinet base:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386735;image) (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386736;image) (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386737;image)
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ive reached my deadline on being able to do any major woodwork on my terrace,i open tomorrow so had to make a decision about the marquee and speakers.
First off i was hoping the marquee would have been with me by now,but the guy says there was maintenance work at the printers,so its delayed :banghead:
I was really nervous about cutting the hole before i have it,but today was crunch day so i had no choice.The dimensions of the marquee look quite tall (330mm x 124mm) when i see it now,but i kept the ratio of the original i think .
Also the speakers needed some thought,the store ive been buying parts from and is quite reliable,didnt have the size speaker grills i wanted in stock.These are also the only metal grills they carry.All the others being plastic.These would be fine if tucked up near the marquee on a normal cab,but where they are on a cabaret,at kids knee height/adults kick height, they might have a short lifespan.
So i went for an all in one sort of setup:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386674;image) (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386675;image)
The rear of the marquee is recessed to 6mm.2 sheets of 3mm perspex with the marquee sandwiched in between.The light setup ive yet to design will hold them in place.
The speakers i had bought previously for the bartop secondhand online:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386676;image)
Not bad at all,and with the built in volume setup i can place somewhere inside.
I cut some metal grill i had to sit in the recess behind the speaker hole.Then cut a panel to go over the recess,two holes for the speakers,routed out to size using the old speaker housing as a template,then routed a 45 degree angle on the hole for no other reason than i am loving using the router :applaud:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386678;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386679;image)
These will be hidden anyway by the grill.
Ive found with at lot of the internal unseen things the temptation to cut corners is quite strong ;D but ive tried to keep my standards up,to the best of my woodworking abilities anyway.
Next up is the PC i think.
I love the Tully, such a great design! I miss my Qbert, but I’m glad Jim has it. It’s in good hands.
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I Fitted the rest of the parts to see how it all fit :
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386738;image)
I bought a sata data/power cable extension lead.The SSD is attached with velcro.I also bought an ATX 24 pin extension lead.The PSU comfortably reaches across the base,although i dont know if its well positioned.
Theres a spare sata power lead in the foto,this will attach to the VGA to scart cable,and switches the TV to AV1 when the cabinet powers on.Also I have the P4 cable spare,and may use it to power the extra fan which is lying in the foto.Does anyone think an extra fan is needed?
I decided to check it all still worked after being dismantled.Then i decided the Grafic card was very wobbly,so hacked up this bracket:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386739;image)
I may improve that,or at least tidy this one up,but it does what it should and the bracket is rock solid.
Anyway powered up and all working great :applaud:
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I love the Tully, such a great design! I miss my Qbert, but I’m glad Jim has it. It’s in good hands.
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Your Q-bert was one of the cabs that got me interested in the design. :notworthy:
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I love the Tully, such a great design! I miss my Qbert, but I’m glad Jim has it. It’s in good hands.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Your Q-bert was one of the cabs that got me interested in the design. :notworthy:
Glad to hear that. I will build another one one day - Having the board fire that knocker when Qbert fell was wonderful. That was a great sense of accomplishment!
Keeping an eye on this project, keep up the good work!
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I had the same issue with the pair of bartops I built last month. I bought 3/4" MDF for everything but the control panel which was plywood and both types of wood caused enough of an overhang that it made getting the control panel and back panel off hard to do. The T-molding was installed even also. I used a sharp x-acto knife and shaved off the T-molding for the locations where the panels were rubbing. I tend to build these things with too tight a fit so I've even had trouble where things were perfect and then just the paint job causes problems.
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I tend to build these things with too tight a fit so I've even had trouble where things were perfect and then just the paint job causes problems.
Yeah i think Id tried to assemble too soon and the paint seemed to cause just as many problems,feeling like rubber.Hopefully now the extra time it has to cure will help.
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Coming along nicely. Your computer fan solution is creative, haven’t seen that before. Keep it up!
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Just a quick little update,i seem to work slightly quicker when I see how long since i last added to the thread.
Ive made a couple of brackets from some aluminium angle to secure the PSU,also tidied up the GPU bracket a little:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386928;image)
Attached the speakers to the board Id made,and added a small bracket for the volume setup.This is one of the turn it down and it clicks off dials,and is easily reached thru the coin door.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386929;image) (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386930;image)
The silver disks of the speakers are a little more visible thru the grill than Id expected.I may have to do something about that:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386931;image) (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386932;image)
At last my marquee is in the post and should arrive tomorrow.Ive had a bit of a runaround with that and may not be too happy with the results,but Ill see when it arrives.
Have started working on my CPO and button placement.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386933;image)
I wish Id got the Cpo first as i could be working on fitting the controls now :banghead: but another lesson learnt.
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Love the speaker hole, and I actually like the silver peeking through.
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Love the speaker hole, and I actually like the silver peeking through.
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Agreed it looks cooler that way
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I would actually hide the silver peeking through but it's not the end of the world either. This cab is turning out great.
What kind of coin door are you going to use? I'm 95% sure I'm building a Tully next as soon as the weather warms up a bit around NYC so I've started planning. Coin doors are so pricey but necessary to complete the look, IMO.
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I would actually hide the silver peeking through but it's not the end of the world either. This cab is turning out great.
What kind of coin door are you going to use? I'm 95% sure I'm building a Tully next as soon as the weather warms up a bit around NYC so I've started planning. Coin doors are so pricey but necessary to complete the look, IMO.
It will be the Industrias Lorenzo medium coin door.About 85 euros delivered.Its the single coin slot,and im assuming that wont cause any problems with 2 player games.Still undecided whether to get the euro coin mech,or the old 25 peseta coin one,ive got a bag of them lying about somewhere.
This crap situation with the Pandemic is messing with everything.Ive been delaying buying stuff as it seems wrong spending cash on my hobby,when my family relies on my business being up and running,but the uncertainty about if I"ll still have a business in a month or 2 is getting so old now :banghead:
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Been having a try doing my own CPO and sideart.So ive been watching some Inkscape video tutorials.Managed to get a grasp of placing circles and grouping moving and resizing stuff.Early days as yet.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=387313;image)
Ive printed out a bezel for reference.I took the red,yellow and blue from the art to try and tie things together.But the bezel looks so busy compared to the CPO.This needs work.
I also think i can edit the small instruction square on the original bezel for my own needs.
My Marquee finally arrived:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=387305;image)
Unfortunately im not too happy with it and have ordered another elsewhere.Hopefully this one will be less stressful.
Last night i had my first go at vectorizing art.I had a rough copy of the Scramble sideart and am working on just using part of the image to create a smaller piece.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=387319
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=387317
This is what im aiming for,but to a higher standard obviously:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=387316;image)
But again its early days in my struggle,im happy enough with the helmet ive vectorized,and the rockets too,but the vapor trail is a bit abysmal.Am i better off doing that part in Photoshop ??
I was dead against trying the art myself as im not very artistic,but i lost about 5 hours in a flash as i wrestled with it last night ;D
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Looking solid. The artwork is really looking great.
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I love that side art - are you going to stencil it? That would be really cool.
As for the CPO and bezel... I'm not sure I like the red/orange or the busy art here. I get what you are trying to do by tying it all in to the marquee but I think the CPO would look better all black with red/orange color rings around the buttons/joystick or other accents, not covering the entire panel. It's a little too much, IMO, and you already have that awesome yellow that draws the eye. It will also make the screen the focal point when looking down.
The whole thing is really coming together nicely!
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Looking solid. The artwork is really looking great.
Cheers bud.
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I love that side art - are you going to stencil it? That would be really cool.
As for the CPO and bezel... I'm not sure I like the red/orange or the busy art here. I get what you are trying to do by tying it all in to the marquee but I think the CPO would look better all black with red/orange color rings around the buttons/joystick or other accents, not covering the entire panel. It's a little too much, IMO, and you already have that awesome yellow that draws the eye. It will also make the screen the focal point when looking down.
The whole thing is really coming together nicely!
The sideart Im most confident about the direction Im going in.Ive got a clear idea in my head of the final version,Its just whether I"ll be able to pull it off myself without it looking to amatuer.
When i first started looking into artwork for scramble,I saw it was a stencil job.
The design im looking to produce will have to be on an oval background if i go for a sticker.And that background will have to either match my yellow cab,or use another colour entirely.I dont think id be able to match the yellow 100%.And id rather not have a different colour.
So Ive been checking out one of those online printer places that can print you up anything big or small on any medium.They do a window sticker thats designed to be removed and moved and used over again for advertising and stuff.
Im not sure how similar to Mylar it is,but Ive been thinking i could get it printed X2 each side on this stuff.and cut out the red X1 and the blackX1 for each side and have a go.Of course Id risk a world of pain if I mess up,But the design is extremely simple so Im seriously tempted.
And as for the CPO/Bezel,the area just has too much going on i know,but i love that Bezel design :banghead: Ill see how it looks with the black CPO tomorrow.
Thanks for the advice,I know what i like when i see it,but have no idea about the process to get there.
Constantly amazes me how good some of the work on this site is. :notworthy:
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That is really looking great. Scramble is one of my favorites and you are nailing it. Love that color scheme. :cheers:
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I know what i like when i see it,but have no idea about the process to get there.
This sums up my design process as well. It's why I'm not happy until I've seen a ton of different designs and taken in suggestions from other people. Sometimes I like something right away but I still want to go through the process even if I end up coming full circle to where I started.
You are definitely headed in the right direction. The yellow was a super bold and awesome color choice and I think playing around with different designs before committing to anything is going to ensure you make good decisions for the final look.
:cheers:
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After playing around with Inkscape for many hours now,Ive been looking at some different colour schemes as recomended.Ive bought some red,white and black buttons and so mocked up some different combinations:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=387414;image)
Im actually really enjoying learning the basic workings of Inkscape.I wasnt keen on learning a new complicated program,but for my needs its actually not to hard.I cant decide on the joystick surround,and am maybe making it a bit more complex than what it needs to be.
What im preferring the most is black buttons with red surrounds on a black background:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=387415;image)
Im determined to keep the original bezel,and I think this new CPO keeps the clutter down from how my earlier attempt looked.
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I ordered a sample pack of the window sticker stuff.Unfortunately its a rubber like material,even with a brand new craft blade i cant cut it cleanly enough.And it doesnt stick to the painted sides good enough for me to risk making stencils out of it.
So im going to have to probably make the sideart one big sticker.Ive added a bit more detail to it,Its far from perfect,but Im quite pleased that Ive got this far with it myself.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=387416;image) (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=387417;image)
Ive just got to try and smooth the vapor trails a bit more.
Does anyone happen to know how accurate it would be,if i tried to grab the cabinet colour from a photo.And used that yellow for the sticker? Would it be a close match?Id rather it was yellow than any other colour,white for example.
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What im preferring the most is black buttons with red surrounds on a black background:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=387415;image)
Im determined to keep the original bezel,and I think this new CPO keeps the clutter down from how my earlier attempt looked.
That massive block of black doesn't work IMHO. There is just too much negative space. If this was my CP, I would try to use colors that are used in the bezel, and some kind of transition from bezel to CP.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=387422;image)
The CP on the right is still very plain, but CP and bezel look at lot more cohesive.
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I ordered a sample pack of the window sticker stuff.Unfortunately its a rubber like material,even with a brand new craft blade i cant cut it cleanly enough.And it doesnt stick to the painted sides good enough for me to risk making stencils out of it.
So im going to have to probably make the sideart one big sticker.Ive added a bit more detail to it,Its far from perfect,but Im quite pleased that Ive got this far with it myself.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=387416;image) (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=387417;image)
Ive just got to try and smooth the vapor trails a bit more.
Does anyone happen to know how accurate it would be,if i tried to grab the cabinet colour from a photo.And used that yellow for the sticker? Would it be a close match?Id rather it was yellow than any other colour,white for example.
You can do that stencil by hand. Mask off the whole area with painter's tape (I would use frog tape). Print the sideart. Use some tape to fix it at the desired spot. Use a scalpel or exacto knife to cut out the areas that need to be painted. Use enough pressure to cut the tape underneath as well. Peel off the tape that covers the stencil areas. Paint those areas. If you only need one coat of paint, you can remove the rest of the tape while the paint is still wet. If you need more coats of paint, let the paint dry, apply another coat, let the paint dry. You may need to cut the paint at the edges with the knife to avoid damaging it when removing the tape.
This is a fairly easy process and this way you don't have to worry about matching the yellow because you are using the yellow paint on your cab.
This shows how I did my Clint stencils. You have to scoll down a bit. http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,140758.msg1458221.html#msg1458221
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I like the orange one.
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That massive block of black doesn't work IMHO. There is just too much negative space. If this was my CP, I would try to use colors that are used in the bezel, and some kind of transition from bezel to CP.
The CP on the right is still very plain, but CP and bezel look at lot more cohesive.
Thanks for the input bud.I did really like like the black CPO,but when placed on the cab how you did,i can see the problem.
Ive made up another,pretty much the old one in matching red,but incorporated the trim you added.It does look good in my opinion.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=387460;image)
If i go with this i can always play with the different colour butoons i suppose.Thanks again for the help on this.
But as for your stencil recomendation....
Yours did come out looking great,and its a cool idea.But i got the impression from reading your posts,in hindsight you wouldnt have done it that way. :laugh:
Ive not decided stencil or sticker 100% yet,but it seems like a lot of work and risk using your method.
Ive seen some more window decal material in a chinese shop near me.Its for frosting windows and iss dirt cheap off a long roll.
It doesnt have any stretch and is more like the safety cover youd get on a new fone or lcd screen.It has the advantage of a peel of adhesive back.Im going to give that a go and see what problems that throws up.
Thanks again for the pointers,would you go with the CPO as is now??
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But as for your stencil recomendation....
Yours did come out looking great,and its a cool idea.But i got the impression from reading your posts,in hindsight you wouldnt have done it that way. :laugh:
When I built Clint, I came up with this process and it just took a few attempts to find the right material (frog tape instead of stickers that wouldn't come off) and not making stupid mistakes (like peeling off a part of the tape that should have stayed on). I did stencils this way on my second cab, too. It's a bit of work, but it works and looks good.
You might take a piece of scrap wood and do just a part of the stencil to see if you can do it and like the result.
Ive seen some more window decal material in a chinese shop near me.Its for frosting windows and iss dirt cheap off a long roll.
It doesnt have any stretch and is more like the safety cover youd get on a new fone or lcd screen.It has the advantage of a peel of adhesive back.Im going to give that a go and see what problems that throws up.
If you use a sticker, try to get a transparent one, so you don't have to worry about the yellow. If you want to go the extra mile, you can cut out the transparent parts before applying the rest of the sticker to the cab.
Thanks again for the pointers,would you go with the CPO as is now??
Yep, that looks good.
Tip: When you do the final CPO version without the button graphics, put a + at the center of the button circles, so that you have a mark that shows you where to drill. Also do that for the joystick, of course.
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(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=387460;image)
This is the one
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After seeing the black CPO with the bezel art I agree it's not right. I'm still not sure I like the orange/red though. What if you picked up the green instead? Or maybe the light blue? I don't know why but the orange/yellow combo seems off to me...
I might also move the 3 buttons down a bit - you don't want to accidentally hit the P2 Start button during play. Have you made a test panel yet to try it out?
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I was tempted to ask the wife about colour co-ordination,that quickly passed so ive mocked up a couple of quick combinations.Ive left the joystick graphics on my home pc,so there absent.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=387468;image)(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=387471;image)(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=387472;image)
I do quite like the pale green trim,but i cant see much of it in the bezel to tie them together.The blue i can see a bit of a match,but the 3rd green just no. :dizzy: Im at a loss.
For the amount a CPO costs i may just order the red/yellow one (my current favorite)when i have the bezel ready for print.At least that way i can get my holes drilled and maybe will be easier to see the bigger picture when its all together.
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I might also move the 3 buttons down a bit - you don't want to accidentally hit the P2 Start button during play. Have you made a test panel yet to try it out?
Button position isnt set yet,initially i had PL1 & PL2 side by side on the left and that gave more room on the right of the panel.But PL1 & PL2 are my escape buttons so i think with them at opposite ends will reduce accidental exits.
I can maybe shunt the joy and buttons left a little as long as it doesnt look to uneven.
Ive just been testing with hands on printouts of the layout.I should really drill a bit of scrap i suppose.
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If you use a sticker, try to get a transparent one, so you don't have to worry about the yellow. If you want to go the extra mile, you can cut out the transparent parts before applying the rest of the sticker to the cab.
Can you get them printed on clear vinyl? This i didnt expect.
Ive decided I will not be printing sidart and try to recreate the yellow.
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Dag, yo. :notworthy:
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I would go with black buttons and a red dustwasher / black balltop for the joystick. You already have a riot of colours in the bezel, you don't need randomly coloured buttons.
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I would go with black buttons and a red dustwasher / black balltop for the joystick. You already have a riot of colours in the bezel, you don't need randomly coloured buttons.
Agreed.
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I would go with black buttons and a red dustwasher / black balltop for the joystick. You already have a riot of colours in the bezel, you don't need randomly coloured buttons.
Aaaah no.I wasnt thinking of using 3 different colours at once.I just wanted to save some work.but see the different buttons on the panel. ;D
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I do quite like the pale green trim,but i cant see much of it in the bezel to tie them together.The blue i can see a bit of a match,but the 3rd green just no. :dizzy: Im at a loss.
Could swap some more of the green into the bezel (ie. something like this - https://i.postimg.cc/zf15yv3Z/adjust1.png )
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I do quite like the pale green trim,but i cant see much of it in the bezel to tie them together.The blue i can see a bit of a match,but the 3rd green just no. :dizzy: Im at a loss.
Could swap some more of the green into the bezel (ie. something like this - https://i.postimg.cc/zf15yv3Z/adjust1.png )
What have you done to me ?? :timebomb:
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This is why you need to see ALL options. When you see the one that works you will know it. If you are lukewarm on everything right now then you haven't found the solution yet. The side art was easy - the thing you created fit perfectly and everyone in this thread knew it as soon as they saw it. Keep iterating and it will happen!
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Ive been looking at that bezel for so long now,Ive come to the conclusion that Its in reality one ugly ---smurf---.
However Im not chucking the towel in yet.
I quite liked the idea JDFan had about making the foot fit the shoe,and editing the bezel.I had an idea for something that could get me back to that black CPO i quite liked,but this would just end up looking too crappy i think.Maybe an instruction box like the real one would just dumb down that black bezel sides a little.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=387478;image)
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So I looked back in the thread and noticed your entire cab is yellow right? If so then yeah all those orange versions yesterday don't fit. The black actually will look better with the yellow. In fact I'd probably use yellow for the button surrounds. Just remember when you use button surrounds the overlay alignment becomes critical or they will look off-center. I'd try to mock up the look including the entire cab like you did before. In the end you don't need to please us.
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Why not rework the original Scramble CPO to match your controls?
It will match the Bezel and the sideart.
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Ive been looking at that bezel for so long now,Ive come to the conclusion that Its in reality one ugly ---smurf---.
So I looked back in the thread and noticed your entire cab is yellow right? If so then yeah all those orange versions yesterday don't fit. The black actually will look better with the yellow.
This was my initial thought as well which is why I suggested black. I think the problem is the dominant orange in the bezel and marquee - the orange does not work with the yellow cabinet. It also doesn't look good with the black either. Maybe the Scramble artwork isn't quite right for this cabinet?
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Hmm...I missed this was supposed to be Scramble. Never saw that game before had to google it...lol. Seeing the photos of it I think it would look cool to do like Mike said and make the control panel close to the original. I would move the player two button to the left under player 1 and then center the joystick and move the 3 button to the right. Heck I'll draw it for you in Inkscape if you want.
I like the colors in this version:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/164743002025 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/164743002025)
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Hmm...I missed this was supposed to be Scramble. Never saw that game before had to google it...lol. Seeing the photos of it I think it would look cool to do like Mike said and make the control panel close to the original. I would move the player two button to the left under player 1 and then center the joystick and move the 3 button to the right. Heck I'll draw it for you in Inkscape if you want.
I like the colors in this version:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/164743002025 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/164743002025)
Those colors look really nice. Is that the same orange? It's really subtle here probably for a reason. The original cabinet had a lot of yellow too:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=387485;image)
And also the yellow/orange combo. Maybe I just don't like how the original cab looks LOL.
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When in doubt always go back to the original.
Remember these machines were designed in a different time with different ideas about style and color.
If you want a machine that reflects a bygone era, then that is what you use.
Arcade cabs that are designed to blend in to modern decor totally miss the point for me.
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To a point I would say...Those machines were also designed to be the all new, cutting edge, attention grabbing whores designed to take your money, With that comes advancement in technologies, powder coated wood is a good example, subtle, but not someting that was done back in the day.
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But then again, Triple plated chrome is not so easy to find today...So it becomes a give and take in terms of restoration, design and cost, I supose.
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*Fun story...That was etched with cyanide back in the day, which probably accounts for its modern lack of availability, in this "green" world we find ourselves, and the chain of command on waste chemicals...I used to cook that stuff out back and do my own plating but it's not worth the hassle anymore.
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When in doubt always go back to the original.
Remember these machines were designed in a different time with different ideas about style and color.
If you want a machine that reflects a bygone era, then that is what you use.
Arcade cabs that are designed to blend in to modern decor totally miss the point for me.
:stupid Agreed. A style might be out of date, but that doesn't mean it can't be stunning in it's own way.
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Replace the orange in the bezel with black. Keep your beloved black CPO.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=387479;image)
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Hmm...I missed this was supposed to be Scramble. Never saw that game before had to google it...lol. Seeing the photos of it I think it would look cool to do like Mike said and make the control panel close to the original. I would move the player two button to the left under player 1 and then center the joystick and move the 3 button to the right. Heck I'll draw it for you in Inkscape if you want.
I like the colors in this version:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/164743002025 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/164743002025)
That is a very kind offer,and would be too cool.
Of course Id seen the original Cpo,but thought the bare metal showing would complicate matters seeing how my artistic skills are just a bit off at the minute.
Id asked the guy who did my first marquee to take a look at this one and he just didnt answer :laugh2:
https://tokensonly.com/2010/01/02/willis-scramble-cpo/#post/0
I now see why he gave that a wide birth.
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When in doubt always go back to the original.
Remember these machines were designed in a different time with different ideas about style and color.
If you want a machine that reflects a bygone era, then that is what you use.
Arcade cabs that are designed to blend in to modern decor totally miss the point for me.
To a point I would say...Those machines were also designed to be the all new, cutting edge, attention grabbing whores designed to take your money, With that comes advancement in technologies, powder coated wood is a good example, subtle, but not someting that was done back in the day.
When in doubt always go back to the original.
Remember these machines were designed in a different time with different ideas about style and color.
If you want a machine that reflects a bygone era, then that is what you use.
Arcade cabs that are designed to blend in to modern decor totally miss the point for me.
:stupid Agreed. A style might be out of date, but that doesn't mean it can't be stunning in it's own way.
Ive been looking at that bezel for so long now,Ive come to the conclusion that Its in reality one ugly ---smurf---.
So I looked back in the thread and noticed your entire cab is yellow right? If so then yeah all those orange versions yesterday don't fit. The black actually will look better with the yellow.
This was my initial thought as well which is why I suggested black. I think the problem is the dominant orange in the bezel and marquee - the orange does not work with the yellow cabinet. It also doesn't look good with the black either. Maybe the Scramble artwork isn't quite right for this cabinet?
Thank you for the constructive comments everyone.Its actually been quite a leap showing my work on the forum,nothing to be nervous about really,Im sure everyone was hesitant at some time.
I think the way to go is as pointed out a bit truer to the original artwork :cheers:
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What's the dimensions of your control panel surface?
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Ok here's what a drew based on that original control panel. I had to stretch out the left and right sides to make room for the buttons.
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And here's a link to the Inkscape file if you want to use it and feel free to tweak it:
https://www.mediafire.com/file/ll1z827bpooua37/Scramble.svg/file (https://www.mediafire.com/file/ll1z827bpooua37/Scramble.svg/file)
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What's the dimensions of your control panel surface?
Its 460mm x 155mm.
Sorry for the late rerply,ive just woken to find this.That is so,so cool.I cant thank you enough for putting that effort in,especially when its for a stranger.
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Ive printinted the latest CPO out and got an idea how it looks.The yellow has come out really pale but thats just my printer.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=387498;image) (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=387499;image)
I will have to play with button placement,as the 3rd one is to close to the side.Hopefully my preferred 3button layout wont make it look uneven.
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That is way better. Nice job with the assist Gilrock.
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Yeah I guessed at 470mm based on the earlier image you had with a ruler along the front edge. I figured you might need to fine tune button placement. I was thinking maybe the player I and II buttons should be swapped with the player images to move them more to the left away from the joystick. Also if you work with the file the graphics on the left are just copy of the right so if you needed to change anything you could delete the group on the left, rework the right side and then make another copy and flip it.
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Surprised nobody commented about this....what exactly is going on here....lol
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That is way better. Nice job with the assist Gilrock.
Isnt it just.
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Surprised nobody commented about this....what exactly is going on here....lol
Thats not the only near the knuckle bit of art in Scramble.
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Ive printinted the latest CPO out and got an idea how it looks.The yellow has come out really pale but thats just my printer.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=387498;image) (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=387499;image)
I will have to play with button placement, as the 3rd one is to close to the side. Hopefully my preferred 3button layout wont make it look uneven.
This is MUCH better. Gilrock - amazing job. :applaud:
If you are going to clean up the CP... the circle around the joystick doesn't look like a circle - this might be because Gilrock stretched the ends of the CP to fit your dimensions. I also kind of like the font on the original CP if you could work that back in somehow.
Also, if you are going with white buttons like the original, see how it would look with some black rings around them (like the original).
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Ive printinted the latest CPO out and got an idea how it looks.The yellow has come out really pale but thats just my printer.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=387498;image) (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=387499;image)
I will have to play with button placement, as the 3rd one is to close to the side. Hopefully my preferred 3button layout wont make it look uneven.
This is MUCH better. Gilrock - amazing job. :applaud:
If you are going to clean up the CP... the circle around the joystick doesn't look like a circle - this might be because Gilrock stretched the ends of the CP to fit your dimensions. I also kind of like the font on the original CP if you could work that back in somehow.
Also, if you are going with white buttons like the original, see how it would look with some black rings around them (like the original).
Circles in Inkscape are my speciality these days.Lol
If i gain the text,should i lose the carriage bolts? Im thinking no,but dont want to mess up the placement.
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This is MUCH better. Gilrock - amazing job. :applaud:
If you are going to clean up the CP... the circle around the joystick doesn't look like a circle - this might be because Gilrock stretched the ends of the CP to fit your dimensions. I also kind of like the font on the original CP if you could work that back in somehow.
Also, if you are going with white buttons like the original, see how it would look with some black rings around them (like the original).
javeryh - Yeah I didn't notice it should be more like a circle. I thought I kept the proportions of the original image when I scaled it but I did have to mess with the perspective because the edges of the original image were trapezoidal.
lomoverde - I can easily fix that tonight if you want. Let me know if you want other things moved around. Or if you want to take over from here I don't mind.
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I didn't know if you were using carriage bolts or not. If you are then those positions need to be double checked against your joystick because I just was placing them over a screenshot and I'm sure they aren't square. If you don't have carriage bolts you could still leave the circles there.
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I didn't know if you were using carriage bolts or not. If you are then those positions need to be double checked against your joystick because I just was placing them over a screenshot and I'm sure they aren't square. If you don't have carriage bolts you could still leave the circles there.
You know, I was initially going to suggest removing the small black circles where carriage bolts go but the more I looked at it the more I liked them there. If lomoverde undermounts the joystick I think keeping those circles would still look cool. And obviously if he's using through bolts he will need to line them up... but if they aren't a perfect square I don't think it will look great surrounding the circle if that makes any sense.
So my suggestion would be to undermount the joystick but leave the circles.
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Carriage bolts through the panel.
Complete the classic look.
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This is MUCH better. Gilrock - amazing job. :applaud:
If you are going to clean up the CP... the circle around the joystick doesn't look like a circle - this might be because Gilrock stretched the ends of the CP to fit your dimensions. I also kind of like the font on the original CP if you could work that back in somehow.
Also, if you are going with white buttons like the original, see how it would look with some black rings around them (like the original).
javeryh - Yeah I didn't notice it should be more like a circle. I thought I kept the proportions of the original image when I scaled it but I did have to mess with the perspective because the edges of the original image were trapezoidal.
lomoverde - I can easily fix that tonight if you want. Let me know if you want other things moved around. Or if you want to take over from here I don't mind.
Thanks man,when i said circles are a speciality of mine,i meant around buttons.That big circle is tied into the other part and Im not so sure.So if you could round that centre part for me ,would be amazing. :cheers:
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Surprised nobody commented about this....what exactly is going on here....lol
Yeah, I was thinking the same thing. Looks like some cartoon porn LOL. Not that I would watch such stuff as that. ::)
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What's the dimensions of your control panel surface?
Feel a bit cheeky now asking for more help but....so i resized the artwork for my panel.swapped the pl1/pl2 around and had a try at button surrounds.Could you maybe advise me on how to create centre points for drilling? I had to use my own buttons as i couldnt seem to resize yours.I think Im in need of reading up on snapping as i dont seem to be to great at aligning the buttons.
https://www.mediafire.com/file/p0zn06nstteqpdu/Scramble_orig_2.svg/file
Cheers bud.
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Probably about 5 hours before I can look at anything. Did you still want that center fixed into a circle? Yeah the buttons I imported are probably a little tricky because they came in as square images with white backgrounds. I used the fill tool to fix the white corners but it still didn't look good so then I drew a pink circle that just fit over the button and used it as a clip mask. You would probably need to release the clip mask to edit the underlying object or maybe there is a shortcut to select it. The buttons are really for show you would want to disable that layer and have center points or circles for drilling like you suggested. You could just draw two lines in a plus sign shape for a center point. Group the two lines and copy it for the other buttons.
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Ok cheers for that.Im looking pretty good for the buttons I think now Ive discovered the align and distribute function.If i have a go at that centre joystick image later,Ill let you know tomorrow if i have a problem i cant solve if thats ok?.Thanks so much again :cheers:
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Hey nice! Digging the new art :applaud:
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Hey nice! Digging the new art :applaud:
Cheers bud,me too !
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Probably about 5 hours before I can look at anything. Did you still want that center fixed into a circle? Yeah the buttons I imported are probably a little tricky because they came in as square images with white backgrounds. I used the fill tool to fix the white corners but it still didn't look good so then I drew a pink circle that just fit over the button and used it as a clip mask. You would probably need to release the clip mask to edit the underlying object or maybe there is a shortcut to select it. The buttons are really for show you would want to disable that layer and have center points or circles for drilling like you suggested. You could just draw two lines in a plus sign shape for a center point. Group the two lines and copy it for the other buttons.
Hey mate,think Im all good now with the art.Just need to match the carriage bolts with whatever joystick i get.
Honestly cant thank you enough for what you did.In fact everyone who helped with comments.This place is cool. :applaud:
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Heres where Im at today then:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=387505;image)
I really like the text added,might have to play with the positioning and font a little.
I fixed the round joystick surround,but hadnt realised it was the bigger oval which is actually round on the original.This is made up of a few circles and arcs in the inkscape file :dizzy: so may just leave it as is. ;D
Thinking of maybe re arranging the action buttons.my preferred layout is a bit tight.Might bring the 2 bottom buttons closer to form a triangle.Most of my games will be 2 buttons anyway.
All told I am so happy with how its looking.
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Yeah I thought it was the big circle we were talking about yesterday. It wouldn't be too hard to fix but I think what you have there looks fine. The main thing is if the center is fixed into a circle it impacts all those arcs beside the circle. Regarding the button placement I like my buttons a little different than that. Buttons 1 and 2 are fine but I like the 3rd button up closer to the height of the 2nd button because if I lay my fingers curved onto a table and view where they land my index finger is lower than the other 2 but the 2nd and 3rd finger land fairly even horizontally. But if you move the 3rd button up it might cover up the sperm shot...lol.
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Yeah I thought it was the big circle we were talking about yesterday. It wouldn't be too hard to fix but I think what you have there looks fine. The main thing is if the center is fixed into a circle it impacts all those arcs beside the circle. Regarding the button placement I like my buttons a little different than that. Buttons 1 and 2 are fine but I like the 3rd button up closer to the height of the 2nd button because if I lay my fingers curved onto a table and view where they land my index finger is lower than the other 2 but the 2nd and 3rd finger land fairly even horizontally. But if you move the 3rd button up it might cover up the sperm shot...lol.
Yeah Id arrange the buttons different usually,but it does indeed cover the money shot.I should go thru my game list and see how many 3 button games i actually have.
I think its looking cool just the way it is now anyway.Cant thank you enough for the leg up mate :cheers:
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Yep no problem I like doing vector work. You might need to adjust the yellow to match your paint job but that yellow is kinda cool if you want to repaint the cabinet... :)
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Heres where Im at today then:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=387505;image)
I really like the text added,might have to play with the positioning and font a little.
I fixed the round joystick surround,but hadnt realised it was the bigger oval which is actually round on the original.This is made up of a few circles and arcs in the inkscape file :dizzy: so may just leave it as is. ;D
Thinking of maybe re arranging the action buttons.my preferred layout is a bit tight.Might bring the 2 bottom buttons closer to form a triangle.Most of my games will be 2 buttons anyway.
All told I am so happy with how its looking.
Love it. Scrolling through this thread and looking at where you started to where you are currently is really fun. Some more minor suggestions:
- Instead of the P1 and P2 "people" icons label them "Start 1" and "Start 2" using the same black font you are using on the rest of the CP. The people icons look out of place - nothing else on the CP is white besides the buttons (which I might actually change to black if you haven't ordered them yet).
- What games do you want to play that require 3 buttons? Are there any "must haves"? Given the space, I think 2 action buttons would fit better but if you want to play games with 3 buttons then you have to squeeze them in. I'm trying to think of games I play and Bank Panic and Asteroids are all I can think of but Asteroids is 5 buttons and can be mapped to the joystick. I don't play beat-em-ups or bullet hell games though so I may be missing out on a lot of 3 button games. If you do go down to 2 buttons, you can mirror the start buttons for symmetry.
That's really all I've got - it looks great. :applaud:
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The "people" icons came from the original artwork. The original looked like it made the start buttons dual use and the action buttons were on both sides for left or right handed players. I myself wouldn't change it but if you did want it to be similar you could do that. I would probably work in 3 buttons on the right either way. Make it setup for Asteroids. ;)
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Yeah Id arrange the buttons different usually,but it does indeed cover the money shot.
You should arrange the buttons so that you are comfortable playing. "My fingers hurt like hell!" "But the CP looks cool!"
Also, don't forget to include the marks for drilling. Getting the holes right will be very tough without them.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=387506;image)
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Heres where Im at today then:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=387505;image)
I really like the text added,might have to play with the positioning and font a little.
I fixed the round joystick surround,but hadnt realised it was the bigger oval which is actually round on the original.This is made up of a few circles and arcs in the inkscape file :dizzy: so may just leave it as is. ;D
Thinking of maybe re arranging the action buttons.my preferred layout is a bit tight.Might bring the 2 bottom buttons closer to form a triangle.Most of my games will be 2 buttons anyway.
All told I am so happy with how its looking.
Love it. Scrolling through this thread and looking at where you started to where you are currently is really fun. Some more minor suggestions:
- Instead of the P1 and P2 "people" icons label them "Start 1" and "Start 2" using the same black font you are using on the rest of the CP. The people icons look out of place - nothing else on the CP is white besides the buttons (which I might actually change to black if you haven't ordered them yet).
- What games do you want to play that require 3 buttons? Are there any "must haves"? Given the space, I think 2 action buttons would fit better but if you want to play games with 3 buttons then you have to squeeze them in. I'm trying to think of games I play and Bank Panic and Asteroids are all I can think of but Asteroids is 5 buttons and can be mapped to the joystick. I don't play beat-em-ups or bullet hell games though so I may be missing out on a lot of 3 button games. If you do go down to 2 buttons, you can mirror the start buttons for symmetry.
That's really all I've got - it looks great. :applaud:
Ill have a look at the PL1/PL2 later.I can see what you mean about them looking slightly out of place.Im thinking tho just a thicker outline could blend them in? Or black fill? Ill have a look at all angles tho.
Buttons I bought a selection of different colours earlier in the build.Annoyingly only 3 of every colour tho :banghead:
This afternoon Ive altered the carriage bolt spacings.Im going straight thru the panel as MikeA suggested.
The hole pattern ive based it on is the U360 which Im thinking of giving a go to.Unless you are thrilled with the servostik ?(my second choice) I have a zippy and a eurostick that seem to have same hole patterns but Im not getting anything printed until Im sure.
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The "people" icons came from the original artwork. The original looked like it made the start buttons dual use and the action buttons were on both sides for left or right handed players. I myself wouldn't change it but if you did want it to be similar you could do that. I would probably work in 3 buttons on the right either way. Make it setup for Asteroids. ;)
The original does indeed have duel lazer/bomb buttons.
I want the 3 buttons,Ill probably just make the bottom 2 closer together.
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Also, don't forget to include the marks for drilling. Getting the holes right will be very tough without them.
Cheers mate,ive actually just drawn small circles and placed them in the middle of each one.They are there under the button graphic. ;)
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The hole pattern ive based it on is the U360 which Im thinking of giving a go to.Unless you are thrilled with the servostik ?(my second choice) I have a zippy and a eurostick that seem to have same hole patterns but Im not getting anything printed until Im sure.
I have both a U360 and a ServoStik and I prefer the click of the ServoStik over the floatyness of the U360. I also like how for 4-way games the stick cannot hit the diagonals at all. If you do get a U360 I would put an octagon restrictor plate underneath so you can still hit all 8 directions definitively.
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The hole pattern ive based it on is the U360 which Im thinking of giving a go to.Unless you are thrilled with the servostik ?(my second choice) I have a zippy and a eurostick that seem to have same hole patterns but Im not getting anything printed until Im sure.
I have both a U360 and a ServoStik and I prefer the click of the ServoStik over the floatyness of the U360. I also like how for 4-way games the stick cannot hit the diagonals at all. If you do get a U360 I would put an octagon restrictor plate underneath so you can still hit all 8 directions definitively.
OK,I just fancied the U360 as it had a built in encoder.I dont want to be buying extra parts if i can help it.Ive got a zero delay here I can use in the mean time.Ill go servostik.
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Been enjoying myself tweaking the CPO:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=387508;image)
I like the look of this way.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=387509;image)
This even more so.However I think Id be forced to label the buttons also,as per the original,and for symetry.But Laser/bombs and ???
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=387510;image)
the black icons look ok,but I think Im going to stick with the white,with a heavier outline:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=387511;image)
These decisions are difficult for me to make as Im just digging that art so much right now and anything looks good.But Im all about authenticity these days :laugh2: :laugh2:
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Just a quick update on progress.My second marquee arrived.Totally happy with this one.
The first guy i used charged me to restore the scramble marquee artwork,not a lot,and has a policy of not releasing the artwork files to the client after sending prints.Is this usual?
The second one was printed from the image I found online and looks identical to the restored one.
Anyway the coin door arrived today,i felt more than a little relieved when it fit just right,having cut the hole what seems an age ago.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=387700;image)
Also i ordered the U360 stick.Id wanted the servostik but the shop i was using didnt have the control boards in stock.
I intend to replace the U360 with the servostik.I just wanted to get things moving and when the stick arrives Ill be ordering the CPO.
So Im hoping the U360 and servostik share the same hole pattern.Ive looked about,on slagcoin and the Wiki here,and cant find out for sure.
Anyway a bit of progress has been made.
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That looks fantastic. :cheers:
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Great looking cabinet! Coin door definitely makes it look 1000x better than not having one.
In my experience (once LOL), a commissioned artist should provide all of the drafts and the finished product to you so you can reproduce it as many times as you want. Maybe this is something that you need to state up front? I didn't though and got everything sent to me...
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Great looking cabinet! Coin door definitely makes it look 1000x better than not having one.
In my experience (once LOL), a commissioned artist should provide all of the drafts and the finished product to you so you can reproduce it as many times as you want. Maybe this is something that you need to state up front? I didn't though and got everything sent to me...
He does actually state on his website that he doesnt release the files,but then he couldnt provide the promised prints....anyway its all put down to experience now.
Amazed to recieve the U360 today,i was expecting at least a week longer for delivery.In hindsight i could have waited for the servostik control boards to be in stock.
So i opened up the CPO design again,and hadnt even thought about the dust washer covering the art like it will.So Ive had to adjust it a bit.Problem is I cant have both the arrows and text.So its one or the other i think:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=387720;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=387721;image)
Im leaning towards the text version.
Ive also removed the black circle around the joystick as it will be covered anyway.
If I get this sent away,the end is in sight :applaud:
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Go to Focus Attack (https://focusattack.com/clear-31mm-1-16-acrylic-dustwasher-fits-sanwa-jlf-without-shaft-cover/) and order a smaller dustwasher cover for $0.95. The one that comes with the Ultimarc sticks is big. You can get 31mm diameter dustwashers and spray paint the bottom whatever color you want. I did this for my cabinet - came out great.
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Great looking cabinet! Coin door definitely makes it look 1000x better than not having one.
In my experience (once LOL), a commissioned artist should provide all of the drafts and the finished product to you so you can reproduce it as many times as you want. Maybe this is something that you need to state up front? I didn't though and got everything sent to me...
He does actually state on his website that he doesnt release the files,but then he couldnt provide the promised prints....anyway its all put down to experience now.
Amazed to recieve the U360 today,i was expecting at least a week longer for delivery.In hindsight i could have waited for the servostik control boards to be in stock.
So i opened up the CPO design again,and hadnt even thought about the dust washer covering the art like it will.So Ive had to adjust it a bit.Problem is I cant have both the arrows and text.So its one or the other i think:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=387720;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=387721;image)
Im leaning towards the text version.
Ive also removed the black circle around the joystick as it will be covered anyway.
If I get this sent away,the end is in sight :applaud:
I like the bottom one as well
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Great looking cabinet! Coin door definitely makes it look 1000x better than not having one.
In my experience (once LOL), a commissioned artist should provide all of the drafts and the finished product to you so you can reproduce it as many times as you want. Maybe this is something that you need to state up front? I didn't though and got everything sent to me...
Thats a great idea,my original circle is 32 mm.
However i registered and when i got to the checkout its 54dollars delivery. :hissy:
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Great looking cabinet! Coin door definitely makes it look 1000x better than not having one.
In my experience (once LOL), a commissioned artist should provide all of the drafts and the finished product to you so you can reproduce it as many times as you want. Maybe this is something that you need to state up front? I didn't though and got everything sent to me...
He does actually state on his website that he doesnt release the files,but then he couldnt provide the promised prints....anyway its all put down to experience now.
Amazed to recieve the U360 today,i was expecting at least a week longer for delivery.In hindsight i could have waited for the servostik control boards to be in stock.
So i opened up the CPO design again,and hadnt even thought about the dust washer covering the art like it will.So Ive had to adjust it a bit.Problem is I cant have both the arrows and text.So its one or the other i think:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=387720;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=387721;image)
Im leaning towards the text version.
Ive also removed the black circle around the joystick as it will be covered anyway.
If I get this sent away,the end is in sight :applaud:
I like the bottom one as well
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yeah,if I cant track one of those smaller dustwashers closer to home,I think Ill go with the bottom one.
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I like the top one without the text. I mean c'mon is someone really not going to know which way is up? :)
But mainly because you're not including all the text since the button labels aren't going to be there. Without the text I feel is more appropriate since its for a multi-game cabinet and not dedicated to that one game.
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Thats a great idea,my original circle is 32 mm.
However i registered and when i got to the checkout its 54dollars delivery. :hissy:
$54 for shipping??? Are you on the moon?
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Thats a great idea,my original circle is 32 mm.
However i registered and when i got to the checkout its 54dollars delivery. :hissy:
$54 for shipping??? Are you on the moon?
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=387727;image)
Thats actually the cheapest option.
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I like the top one without the text. I mean c'mon is someone really not going to know which way is up? :)
But mainly because you're not including all the text since the button labels aren't going to be there. Without the text I feel is more appropriate since its for a multi-game cabinet and not dedicated to that one game.
I may order one of each.
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Great looking cabinet! Coin door definitely makes it look 1000x better than not having one.
In my experience (once LOL), a commissioned artist should provide all of the drafts and the finished product to you so you can reproduce it as many times as you want. Maybe this is something that you need to state up front? I didn't though and got everything sent to me...
He does actually state on his website that he doesnt release the files,but then he couldnt provide the promised prints....anyway its all put down to experience now.
Amazed to recieve the U360 today,i was expecting at least a week longer for delivery.In hindsight i could have waited for the servostik control boards to be in stock.
So i opened up the CPO design again,and hadnt even thought about the dust washer covering the art like it will.So Ive had to adjust it a bit.Problem is I cant have both the arrows and text.So its one or the other i think:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=387720;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=387721;image)
Im leaning towards the text version.
Ive also removed the black circle around the joystick as it will be covered anyway.
If I get this sent away,the end is in sight :applaud:
I like the text version and love that cabinet.
the yellow with marque just pops.
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Ive tracked down a 38mm dustwasher in Spain.Unfortunately its still a bit big to fit how Id like.Ive ordered one anyway and will see how it goes.In the meantime Im going to order 2 CPOs,with and without the text.Its not expensive and Id like to see both in the flesh.
Also Ive added a small instruction panel onto the bezel.The scramble original has instructions for that game,which isnt really helpful with my set up.
I thought about just editing it totally out of the artwork,but then I probably couldnt manage to do a good job of that.And i suppose there could be a time someone other than me is using the cabinet so...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=387738;image)
Now I know this could make more sense to me than it will someone else,but its not really something Im overly fussed about perfecting.
Only thing bugging me is the guys signature at the bottom :lol
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Only thing bugging me is the guys signature at the bottom :lol
Fire up your graphics program, make a red box, place it over the signature. Gone.
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Would that not be seen as bad form. :lol
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$54 for shipping??? Are you on the moon?
:laugh2:
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Ive tracked down a 38mm dustwasher in Spain.Unfortunately its still a bit big to fit how Id like.Ive ordered one anyway and will see how it goes.In the meantime Im going to order 2 CPOs,with and without the text.Its not expensive and Id like to see both in the flesh.
Also Ive added a small instruction panel onto the bezel.The scramble original has instructions for that game,which isnt really helpful with my set up.
I thought about just editing it totally out of the artwork,but then I probably couldnt manage to do a good job of that.And i suppose there could be a time someone other than me is using the cabinet so...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=387738;image)
Now I know this could make more sense to me than it will someone else,but its not really something Im overly fussed about perfecting.
Only thing bugging me is the guys signature at the bottom :lol
Just edit the signature out. It's your cabinet and I doubt the artist would care on the 0.000001% chance he is reading this thread.
Also, the bezel looks so much better on the screen than on your test prints so I really think this will come together nicely once you get everything professionally printed. I like the instructions too - makes it seem authentic.
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You should always give the artist credit for his or her work.
We already ripoff artwork that does not belong to us.
We can at least give the artist credit.
Don't remove the signature. It is part of the artwork.
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I’d leave the signature. It’s small, unobtrusive, and part of the original art, but that’s just me. Like Mike said, you’re using most of his art, so you may as well keep his credit on there. I guarantee you won’t notice it after a while.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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You should always give the artist credit for his or her work.
We already ripoff artwork that does not belong to us.
We can at least give the artist credit.
Don't remove the signature. It is part of the artwork.
I would normally agree if this cabinet was going to be in a public place but it’s going in OP’s house and if it bugs him then he should just remove it. No one will notice either way (whether the signature is there or not) so he might as well be happy about it. I can’t even read it blown up on my screen anyway.
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We will know. :bat
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We will know. :bat
Ha - true.
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We will know. :bat
You know it doesn’t bug me all that much really :lol
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Dude you need to scrub that artist name off of there just like when you steal a car you gotta scratch off those VIN numbers.
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Regarding the joystick surround, I prefer the no-text version. As currently rendered, different point sizes just to shoehorn the words in there looks, well, it doesn't look good. I'd make the characters the same point size, meaning up/down would have to be smaller since there's already not enough room for left/right. But I'll also admit that my preference is for fewer words on ui/control surfaces anyway, so take anything I saw with a bucket of salt. :)
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After spending nearly 2 weeks in customs,my artwork finally arrived today :applaud: I was worried it might have been tampered with but its all good.
Very happy with how it looks.
Quick question before i dive in.I have some carriage bolts,and use some in a rough CP i test software using.Im just a bit concerned the head diameter looks a bit small (8mm).If i tighten down will it cause any damage to the CPO? Is there an arcade cabinet standard?
Well Ive a few jobs to do in the bar first,then will hopefully get the CPO on today.
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Sling up a photo of what you have :) 8mm does seem a little small. With the artwork cramping them down tight will pull the artwork. If they have the square collar just under the head then recommended make small square indent in panel for that collar to fit into and cut the small square of artwork out, this should/will stop the art being pulled. Hope that helps a bit.
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heres a little gathering of what ive got:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=388059;image)
You can see my U360 Im testing is bolted in with the same bolts.My worry is if I overtighten.
I get what your saying with the indent for the square neck on the bolt.Mybe a small countersink would achieve the same ?
I had a quick look online for a wider head,but the ones i saw all had a ribbed sort of surface (obviously for grip) under the dome.And that could cause problems aswell.
Ill do what you recomended. :cheers:
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They don't look too bad, I would go with those, maybe hit them with a bit of black matt :) :) The bolts look pretty flat to the top so Looks like you've tightened those down into the wood which would likely create the recess the square needs to set into :) or the hole for the thread to go through is big enough to also accept the collar :) ideally the thread of the bolt should be able to go through the hole but not the collar itself
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Applied the CPO today,went without hitch really.Knocked the t-molding along the front and drilled out all the holes.
I did have the necessary sized spade bits but decided this wasent my old bartop,and bought some forstner bits that are better suited.They made easy work of the job,and although my player1 button is slightly off centre,its because i wasent totally vertical with the drill.I can easily sort that out.I was terrified of drilling the artwork,but the forstners sliced thru it super accurate.
Also the carriage bolts worked great,and i was worried about nothing.Whats the thoughts on leaving them silver,i actually quite like that.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=388093;image) (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=388094;image)
I had to remove a bit of the CP support to accomodate the furthest right button,and Ill have to rethink my CP clamps as the buttons now obstruct that :banghead:
I am still remaking the CPO tho.With the smaller dustwasher and text.And possibly only 2 buttons. But for now Im very happy.Will order the servostik this weekend,and swap out the Ultrastik.I think its a great stick but maybe would feel better playing shmups.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=388092;image)
Tomorrow hopefully Ill get the Bezel art fitted.And make a cardboard one to go round the screen.
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This looks glorious. That inset marquee is especially delicious. How dare you make me rethink my entire project.
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This looks glorious. That inset marquee is especially delicious. How dare you make me rethink my entire project.
Thank you mate,very kind.
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That is just absolutely stunning. Seriously I love this cabinet. Props for using a real CRT as well. :cheers:
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That is just absolutely stunning. Seriously I love this cabinet. Props for using a real CRT as well. :cheers:
Thank you mate,Im happy with how its shaping up. :cheers:
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I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again a thousand times over - great artwork elevates a good cab into something special.
lomoverde - you nailed this. Looks soooo good man. I actually like the silver bolt heads even though I would have said to paint them black. If you have an extra maybe see how it looks? Your artwork placement looks spot on - everything looks nice and centered.
Can’t say enough great things about how this is shaping up.
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Wow I'm super jealous how this is turning out. That artwork works so perfectly. Flawless victory.
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I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again a thousand times over - great artwork elevates a good cab into something special.
lomoverde - you nailed this. Looks soooo good man. I actually like the silver bolt heads even though I would have said to paint them black. If you have an extra maybe see how it looks? Your artwork placement looks spot on - everything looks nice and centered.
Can’t say enough great things about how this is shaping up.
100% correct about how artwork can take any cab up a level.
As for the carriage bolts,Im sticking with silver,I dont want to pull them back thru the artwork to tell you the truth.
And so wish Id taken your advice about the U360 restrictor.It feels a bit like stirring a cup of coffee as it is.Im ordering the servostik,but will need the restrictor for the next build anyway.
Also Im getting the longer handle,its a bit tight on the knuckles as it is.
I think when (or possibly if) i do the artwork redesign,I may do away with the rings around the buttons also.
Thanks for the compliments,but without @Gilrock it would be a lot less.
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Wow I'm super jealous how this is turning out. That artwork works so perfectly. Flawless victory.
Cheers bud,Im going to copy you and go tully horizontal next.
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Wow I'm super jealous how this is turning out. That artwork works so perfectly. Flawless victory.
Cheers bud,Im going to copy you and go tully horizontal next.
Do it. Once you got both its awesome. I'd like to do an arkanoid one
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Looks awesome....can't wait to see it with the bezel art.
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Best. Tully. Ever.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Best. Tully. Ever.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
too kind :cheers:
It may have just took a turn for the worse tho...
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Ive finally found some free time this morning to tackle the bezel art.Been wanting to for days,but didnt want any disturbances mid job.
First off I got the prints done at Rockstarprint in the UK and am really happy with the quality and price :applaud:
It actually came with a little instruction sheet,and told me something I never would have known otherwise.After cleaning the glass,and spraying water with soap all over,It advised to tape the centre section in place before removing the backing.
This proved so helpful when positioning the bezel.The bottom edge is really quite narrow,and without the centre holding it all square,I probably would have got into all sorts of dramas.
So its all in place and ive squeegied all the water out and removed the centre.I had to remove a tiny slither from either side as it was just lifting as i tried to slide it back into the cabinet.But a brand new stanley blade,and a metal rule worked a treat.
After Ive got it all back together,was gutted to find that the sort of orange trim at the bottom isnt central:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=388221;image) (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=388222;image)
After checking back in this thread,I can see it never was central and I just never noticed :dizzy:
Totally confused now how I feel about it.Am going to spend the rest of the day staring at it and see how it grows.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=388220;image)
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Ive now accepted the off centre bezel art as a quirk of the original(should have kept that artists sig)
had an issue with my CP clamps now the buttons were in the way.
so cut away part of the support bracket so the clamps could fasten a bit wider on the underside.This recess in the batons now solves the issue of and forward/backward sliding.Id planned to use velcro for this but now no need:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=388245;image)
Getting the reach of the clamps just right seems a bit hit and miss,but got it sorted.Nice and tight fit now.
Delivery arrived as well,servostik,and some bits for the u360 Ill use another time.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=388246;image)
Had a boost of enthusiasm knowing I can have it playable tomorrow. :applaud:
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Ive now accepted the off centre bezel art as a quirk of the original(should have kept that artists sig)
I would have changed it to make it perfect and just print it again. :cheers:
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I would have changed it to make it perfect and just print it again. :cheers:
Id forgotton about that :angry:
Havent even looked at the cab in nearly 3 months.I couldnt stand people touching it any longer so its in a store room with a sheet over it now.Come October when the tourists have left Ill be getting back to work on it.
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I would have changed it to make it perfect and just print it again. :cheers:
Id forgotton about that :angry:
Havent even looked at the cab in nearly 3 months.I couldnt stand people touching it any longer so its in a store room with a sheet over it now.Come October when the tourists have left Ill be getting back to work on it.
No problem reminding :laugh:
Make a cabinet with actual coins or pay-id sensor for your tourists ;)
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I would have changed it to make it perfect and just print it again. :cheers:
Id forgotton about that :angry:
Havent even looked at the cab in nearly 3 months.I couldnt stand people touching it any longer so its in a store room with a sheet over it now.Come October when the tourists have left Ill be getting back to work on it.
I know the feeling. I build with the idea that my friends and family will have a great time but when they are actually playing I want to leave the room. Yanking on the joysticks, leaning on it, mashing buttons, etc. Gives me anxiety.
This project came out so awesome. :cheers:
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I didn’t reread the thread but is your marquee opening edge painted or did you run t-molding around it?
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I didn’t reread the thread but is your marquee opening edge painted or did you run t-molding around it?
Sorry bit late now,painted.
The rear of the panel is recessed like yours to bring the marquee closer to the front,2 sheets of perspex with the artwork sandwiched sit flush with the inside of the panel.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386675;image)
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I didn’t reread the thread but is your marquee opening edge painted or did you run t-molding around it?
Sorry bit late now,painted.
The rear of the panel is recessed like yours to bring the marquee closer to the front,2 sheets of perspex with the artwork sandwiched sit flush with the inside of the panel.
Whew! My instincts were right. Love this cab. :cheers:
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Business is winding down for the season so Im having a proper look at this thing again.
The sideart is something I can be getting on with now without having to drag the cab out of its store.
Im not finished with the idea of stencilling the sides just yet,but in the meantime pixartprinting looks very cheap and ive noticed they have transparent vinyl.
Anyway does anyone have any experience with this transparent vinyl ? or indeed this website.
If i choose the transparent option here:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=389080;image)
What should I be choosing here :
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=389081;image)
This is the almost finished sideart,the yellow would be transparent:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=389082;image)
Also what would the vinyl option be if I wanted to test print some different CPOs ? I love the one I got already,but its very shiny and slick.Ive seen close up shots of other peoples on here,and they look like they have a more rough surface.
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An update on my progress:
Ive remade the enclosure behind the marquee containing the led strip light.I did have a problem with the light leaking everywhere , but all good now.
Wired up the coin reject bulb.
Have to make a cardboard bezel to go around the screen.
got these printed up for making my sideart stencils:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=389444;image)
Printed on clear vinyl I had a slight hope they could go on as is but the clear parts are more smoky than clear.
Anyway Im planning how ill go about this,cutting out the main parts,then maybe using some of the off cuts in the corners to trace the detail on the rockets.
Im not totally happy with some parts of the art,but it seems my basic grasp of inkscape has been deleted from my brain during the last few months.So it is was it is and I just want to get it done.
When i painted the cab,I found the finish a bit chalky and worried about keeping it clean,so i put a couple of coats of this over the yellow:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=389445;image)
Went on really easy and has left a nice invisible coat that can be wiped clean.However Im not sure how the stencil will bond to it now.
Can anyone recomend a paint that i can roll over the stencil ? Id rather not have to coat the whole side again with the laquer afterwards.
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This is a lovely looking cabinet. Love the colour and the artwork.
I'm more of a Super Cobra man than a Scramble one though! :cheers:
[goes to check out Rockstarprint ...]
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Ive remade the enclosure behind the marquee containing the led strip light.I did have a problem with the light leaking everywhere , but all good now.
Got any pics of this? I’m currently trying to work this out…
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Ive remade the enclosure behind the marquee containing the led strip light.I did have a problem with the light leaking everywhere , but all good now.
Got any pics of this? I’m currently trying to work this out…
Nothing special :
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386675;image)
Theres 4 strips of wood,all overhang the recess about 1/4 inch,holding the 2 sheets of plexi snug.Then a board fastened to them with 3 rows of led strip on it.
Excuse my wiring i still have to tidy it all and replace some.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=389452;image)
the bottom horizontal strip is glued to the cab,and holds the marquee in place when the light board is off.
When I remove the tube to fit the bezel,Ill be able to get my drill in,and will replace the screws with bolts into threaded inserts.
It looks a bit tatty but works perfect.
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This is a lovely looking cabinet. Love the colour and the artwork.
I'm more of a Super Cobra man than a Scramble one though! :cheers:
[goes to check out Rockstarprint ...]
Do you know what ? I prefer it as well now. :applaud:
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Thanks for the pics. This is interesting because it is not the way I was planning to do this at all... Hmmm... I have the recess like you for the marquee to sit in but I was just going to make a box out of cardboard or something slightly larger than the marquee and about 1" deep. I am planning to cover the inside with tin foil and put the LED strip inside somehow. THe part I'm not 100% sure about is how to attach the box to the inside of the cabinet securely. Velcro maybe?
Just looking through this thread again and man what a cool looking cabinet. Bold colors and great art. :cheers:
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Quick update,to spur me on this week more than being very interesting reading for others.
After finding out the transparent stickers would have looked crap as they were,I decided to cut them up to make stencils.Rather than tracing them as Id originally planned.
I wanted to cut the black parts from one,then use another with the red cut out.Problem was Id only ordered 1 of each,and it turns out they dont keep a record of the order and wouldnt be able to send me exact duplicates.
So I checked on my original prints and decided they were a bit too small anyway:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=389799;image)
So I printed out some rough tests and decided on this size:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=389800;image)
Today 2 of each side arrived.28 euros (32 dollars delivered). This time I didnt bother with the lamination as I knew there was no chance they were getting stuck on the cab:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=389801;image)
Theres a bit more bend to these unlaminated ones,and they are printed on translucent vinyl again,as this should help with placement.
So in the next couple of days hopefully,Ill remove the monitor ( which I need to do anyway to make a cardboard bezel ) and can then lie the cab on its side and either transform its look...or totally ---fudgesicle--- it up.
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Started the stencil cuts today,started with the black half which will have to be laid down first.
The black shadowing parts Ive cut inside where the lines are drawn,this will mean the black underlaps the red, rather than struggling with placement of the second stensil and butting the 2 colours together side by side.Hopefully.
With so many cuts,the vinyl becomes unmanageable.Im assuming a professional stensil would have a paper back.And also a clear front peeled off after placement.Mine has a load of painters tape so it keeps its shape during placement:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=389809;image)
I bought a cutting board and plenty of fresh blades.This part took about an hour.Ive not had a drink since xmas so hand was steady. ;D However Im just getting over a bout of bronchitis and am still a bit wheezy,All that holding my breath during the trickier corners has left me feeling quite ---fouled up beyond all recognition---,so Ill tackle the next step tomorrow.
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Looking good. The side art is really going to push this over the top. :cheers:
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Want to get some of this done everyday now before my enthusiasm wanes.
Removed the monitor and got the cab onto its side,decided on the placement with the as yet uncut red half of the stencil:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=389820;image)
Swapped that over for the cut black paint stencil,Id done a test run with some offcut of the vinyl lightly spraying with soaped water.The vinyl slid about as expected,but the painters tape not as well.So deciided to apply it to the side dry.first half went down great:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=389821;image)
Second half was a lot trickier,a bit like laying out a spiders web.Got there in the end and learnt a few things that should make the next 3 stencils easier.Looks great on with no lift or visible problem areas:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=389822;image)
Next masked off the whole cab.Using that gossamer thin sheeting you get in DIY stores was more problematic than the stencil :banghead: .You walk past that stuff and its up in the air like a cloud of smoke:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=389826;image)
First lightish coat of black applied,and so far so good:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=389823;image)
Made a small test peice using some offcut vinyl,and cut a random pattern into it,Was eager to see how bad the first coat would bleed under the stencil,so removed half of it after about 5 mins:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=389825;image)
Peeled off really easy,and wasent seeing the spiders legs I was expecting from the uncured paint.Although the test is on laminate and smoother than my side panel,Im confident the cab will have a similar sharp line as well.
Second coat tommorow.
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I love to see stenciled artwork.
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Back on it this morning.Ran a couple of tests before starting on the real thing again.Watched a couple more YT vids last night,and one guy recomended lightly rubbing over your first coat with a washing up sponge.I gave that a try,and it does very slightly rough up the surface,but also really sharpens up your edge line.Any tiny lines of bleed were removed from yesterdays test peice.
Gave it a rub over the first coat I had,It really exposes the edges of the stencil,and should help show where the paint needs to be concentrated:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=389879;image)
I then got started laying the second coat down.Now the only thing Im still not to sure of is would the paint go on better if the cab was stood up and I was spraying a vertical surface ??
Anyway,I brought a worklamp to the job today and made sure I got full coverage,as there is no 3rd coat.My earlier tests had come up with 12 minutes of drying time seemed about right,so after 12 I removed the masking:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=389880;image)
I found it really hard to not wait longer and let the paint dry totally.But Id run a test earlier,and everyone says peel off while its tacky....So...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=389881;image)
Smashed it :applaud:
Came off great,and am super happy with the result.
Couple of slight bleeds here and there.But the worst ones will have red over them.
Going to wait 48hrs for this to fully cure before laying the red stencil.
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I love to see stenciled artwork.
Me too. Arcade cabs are pieces of art. I'm all about the form and the artwork and you can't beat a good stencil job.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=389881;image)
Smashed it :applaud:
Agreed! Looks incredible. Can't wait to see the red. :cheers:
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Its harder to paint vertical because a smidge too much paint and it will drip. But if you can manage it you can paint both sides at once and not need to lay the cab on a side you've already painted. I love doing stencils but just did vinyl on a Pacman cab after waiting over a year for a stencil from This Old Arcade.
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Agreed! Looks incredible. Can't wait to see the red. :cheers:
Cheers, feeling good the end is in sight now.
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Its harder to paint vertical because a smidge too much paint and it will drip. But if you can manage it you can paint both sides at once and not need to lay the cab on a side you've already painted. I love doing stencils but just did vinyl on a Pacman cab after waiting over a year for a stencil from This Old Arcade.
Its my first time spraying anything so was worried about runs especially.
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Looking great so far!
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Didnt have a great deal of time yesterday,so rather than tackle the red layer,I instead did the black on the other side.Changed the method I used for the first side slightly.
Sprayed the first coat of black a bit thicker this time,mainly because I was worried my second coat was on the thick side last time.
Today I applied the second coat,waited slightly longer for it to dry this time.15 mins.
When I removed the stencil it was even better than side 1:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=389937;image)
A bit like those monkeys in 2001 space odyssey.I think by blind luck Ive stumbled upon a combination of materials and method that work for me.
Couldnt be happier or more relieved at this minute. 8)
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That's turning out excellent.
Let it get good and hard befor you do the red!
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That's turning out excellent.
Let it get good and hard befor you do the red!
Cheers Bobby. Ill be making sure the black cant be damaged on my test piece , before I start on the cab.
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It looks so good. Lines look crisp!
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Onto the first red stencil today.One problem I knew was coming was I hadnt printed any reference points on the artwork.As the backing was white,you cant see thru it when your placing the second stencil.
So I cut out the 3 points on the helmet and the guys eye ,lining these up with the black painted work underneath made it a lot easier:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=389948;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=389953;image)
Here you can see how the black shadowing will underlap the red,this saves the pain of trying to get the 2 side by side without any yellow showing :
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=389950;image)
Once the stencil was on,and the edges squeegied down,I gave it the first red coat:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=389951;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=389952;image)
My only concern now is how well will the red cover the black underlapping parts.Also how well has the black bonded to the cabinet,and will the stencil pull any off.
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Had a bit of a nightmare painting the first side.Basicly when i sprayed the second red coat,I was still seeing the black come thru.I applied a 3rd coat and the same black coming thru.The red paint seemed to be having no real effect.I sprayed what I hoped would be the final coat and applied it a bit too thick as I wanted the black gone.
This messed with my drying time estimate.I left it half an hour,but got into some difficulties peeling off the stencil.One part near the rocket engines pulled up and folded over,I hadent even seen it happening as I didnt have my glasses on :banghead: and was struggling having only 2 hands.
The paint was a little more than tacky,and when any painted parts of the stencil edge doubled back on themself I was finding it tricky :
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=390051;image)
Anyway when I finally got the stencil removed,I waited a day and washed the side down with soapy water to remove the stencil residue.It really wasent as bad as Id thought.A slight touch up job left me happy with this side.
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The second side has been much better given my experience now.The first coat of red emptied the can.I bought the same brand same colour.Shaked the can equally long,and under the exact same conditions the second coat gave me total perfect coverage.No black showing after 1 light coat.I can only assume the first can had a fault :dunno Can that be it ????
What Id learnt from my first ordeal removing the stencil was to not try and remove it all in one piece.When I got to a point where the paint line doubled back on itself,I made a cut with an exacto and came back to that part.
Also as the paint was thinner and 30 minutes drying had left the paint easy to peel with no strings:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=390052;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=390053;image)
Im really happy with the sharpness of the lines.One slight lift that will be an easy fix.The white stuff you can see on the black is the adhesive from the stencil,Ill wash that off tomorrow.
Im thinking Ill be rolling a clear coat over this for protection but not decided yet.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=390050;image)
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I think I might cry.
Well done.
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I think I might cry.
Well done.
Ha ha.Thanks.....I think.
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This is just stunning.
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Nice work.
Impressive result!
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Wow this looks great. Can't beat stenciled artwork!! :cheers:
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Nice work, has a really classic arcade feel to it. Yellow, black and red, great colors for a cab are they not? ;)
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Thanks for the kind comments guys :cheers:
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Yellow, black and red, great colors for a cab are they not? ;)
You know it.. ;)
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When you see good stencil art like this, you know you are looking at love <3
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Little update on the last stages.
Was thinking of using thick card for the monitor surround,and following the 2dollar guide.
But nicked an idea from Bobby about using foam board.
I bought 10 sheets of A3 5mm thick black foamboard for 20 euros.
First off the main problem was it was black...I thought that would bypass the need for painting,but it just made marking out and general visuals problematic.
A brand new sharp blade is essential,and I eventually found out you can actually sand this stuff,I used 220 grit and shaped my first prototype into a pretty good go.:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=390211;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=390212;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=390213;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=390214;image)
So the last pic Ive applied a bit of filler into the corner joints.Im thinking this trial piece could be the finished article.
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Nice work on the surround, keep up the great work ;D
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Looks awesome. How did you get the measurements so accurate? I spent like 30 minutes trying to make one of these and just couldn't figure it out.
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Looks awesome. How did you get the measurements so accurate? I spent like 30 minutes trying to make one of these and just couldn't figure it out.
I took a foto of the monitor square on,vector traced the outline,then printed it out actual size.
Then traced the shape onto the board.Just needed some slight sanding then and it fits great.
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Nicely done!
Looks excellent.
What a great machine you have built here.