The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Arcade Collecting => Pinball => Topic started by: arzoo on January 27, 2013, 10:18:00 pm
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Hey All,
I've been restoring a Stern Nine Ball and have just two remaining issues.
The first is that the left slingshot bumper won't work. The solenoid fires during the test, so this must be a switch issue. I've traced the wire back to the connector on the MPU board and all seems fine. Any suggestions on what to try?
The second issue is a bit embarrassing - this pin has a non-active pop bumper and I need to change the bulb. Problem is, for the life of me I can't seem to figure out how to get the top cap off. There are no screws. I would assume it's just held on with friction or I must be missing something obvious. Any ideas?
Thanks
Resolutions:
The cap was glued on - had to partially crack it to get it off.
One of the sling shot switches had a short - while fixing another connection, some solder dripped onto the base of the leaf switch (across the non-conductive spacers) effectively shorting the switch in the closed position.
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That cap should be a snap fit. Just rock the cap gently as you lift it off.
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Turns out the cap was glued on. I was able to remove it with only minor damage (small crack).
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That happens a lot. The cheapo tabs break on those caps and people glue them back on. In the long run it's best to replace those broken caps in a restoration. Fortunately this one isn't a super expensive one like in a Fathom or Xenon.
When you say "traced it back and the switch wire is fine" do you mean to say you checked continuity or you eyeballed it?
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change that pin on the connector - or trace continuity through that wire/connector/trace on the board to the TIp transistor. diode check the driver board transistor. Even if it tests ok they are sometimes bad - replace if unsure. Past the transistor to the chip I'm out of my board repair depth.
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That happens a lot. The cheapo tabs break on those caps and people glue them back on. In the long run it's best to replace those broken caps in a restoration. Fortunately this one isn't a super expensive one like in a Fathom or Xenon.
When you say "traced it back and the switch wire is fine" do you mean to say you checked continuity or you eyeballed it?
Yes - I had traced it all back. Turns out there was a short, so the switch was in the closed position as far as the MPU was concerned. Thanks, for the help.
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Could you provide details on the short so the solution sits in the same thread as the question?