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Started by Nitro0602 - Last post by Nitro0602

Could I use the links below for either the analog aim and or modify it with a spring to add a bat for swinging?

360 Ultimarc Stick
https://www.ultimarc.com/arcade-controls/joysticks/ultrastik-360-oval-top-clone/

KEYESTUDIO 5V Leonardo R3 ATmega32u4 Board with USB Cable Kit for Arduino Microcontroller MCU Project https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0786LJQ8K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XMNJ33TAVQ9X73X8BERP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Started by arzoo - Last post by PL1

The LED controller, are separate from the encoder,
Then why does this device make it seem like they aren't separate? This is where the confusion stems from...

https://www.ultimarc.com/control-interfaces/i-pacs/i-pac-ultimate-i-o/
In the case of that Ult. I/O board (and the LED-Wiz+GP), the encoder and LED controller are on one PCB and they share the USB connection, but the software configuration and wiring you need to do are the same as if they were on separate PCBs.

For the encoder part of the PCB, you still have to configure the front end, games, emulators, and maybe the encoder (you may not want to use some of the MAME default "modifier" keystrokes  ;) ) plus you have to wire the switches/spinner/trackball to the encoder part of the board as you would with a standalone encoder like an IPac2 or GP-Wiz40.

For the LED controller part of the PCB, you still have to configure the front end and LEDBlinky plus you have to wire the LEDs to the LED controller part of the board as you would with a standalone LED Controller like a PacLED64 or an LED-Wiz.

Like Arzoo suggested, you may want to start by getting the front end, games, and encoder part up and running before you work on the LEDs and LEDBlinky part.


Scott

Started by arzoo - Last post by arzoo

The LED controller, are separate from the encoder,
Scott
Then why does this device make it seem like they aren't separate? This is where the confusion stems from...
https://www.ultimarc.com/control-interfaces/i-pacs/i-pac-ultimate-i-o/
The Ultimate I/O is a combined board that can handle both the keyboard encoding and the LED outputs. Andy at Ultimarc can answer any questions specific to the hardware.

Your front-end and emulation software installed and configured...

OK, but if the game is more PC based and not using a front-end and not using an emulator, does LED Blinky have the means to be sound reactive outside of MAME or an emulator or front end?
If you're not using any front-end software and you're not using mame, then you would have to manually send commands to LEDBlinky (using a script or batch file). For example;
<path>\LEDBlinky\LEDBlinky.exe <game> <system>
You would pass the actual game name and system name as parameters. The LEDBlinky docs have a section listing all the command line options. And lastly, you would use the LEDBlinky Controls Editor to configure the specific buttons, colors, and voice commands for each game and/or system. The editor has an import unknown games option which can help with new games.

And yes, if you don't want any game specific buttons to light up, you can just use LEDBlinky to respond to game sounds.

Started by myazgan - Last post by lilshawn

ok, i see.... it seems there is a tiny bit of synchronization jittering going on, but I'm not really sure where you might start looking. not sure if this is an original pacman  game board or if it's an xxx-in-1 type deal, but it could be your game board having a variance in timing or something as it seems to be doing it in a vertical direction to the monitors scan direction. maybe a power supply introducing noise? could just be a bad ground somewhere give the video cable a wiggle and clean up the board contacts and make sure everything has a good connection.

it could be something in the monitor. there is a timing capacitor for the vertical deflection circuit. it's gonna be a small (like 100uF 35v (C9?) near the vertical deflection IC) cap that's responsible for the main timing ... it's constant charge/discharge being the "heartbeat" of the timing for the vertical circuit to go to the next line. if it's starts getting old and flakey, it can cause jitteriness... it's usually much more noticeable than this and you end up with weird overlapping and foldunder and stuff so it could just be marginal.

it's not something to really worry about. i mean it's not doing too much... just a little annoying if you stare at it looking for it. if you have a screenful of stuff moving around and you are playing it, you aren't going to notice it.

if it's really getting to you and you really need to do something about it... if you have another monitor or another gameboard/power supply you can try... see if it's coming out of the board like that or it's the actual monitor doing it, becasue honestly, it could be either one doing it from what i can see.

if not, and your monitor has never been serviced, maybe start with a cap kit for your monitor and see if it still does it. they are pretty cheap insurance for the future and will make that monitor outlast you... but will also MOSTLY eliminate the monitor as a source of the jitter.

Started by Substring - Last post by donluca

It won't even boot with 128MB of RAM.

I can't remember what you guys used for GroovyArcade, did you make a busybox with something like Yocto?

6   Lightguns / Re: Rambo start button not workingon Today at 12:26:46 pm

Started by bubba1212 - Last post by MotownC

I'm on .744 and all works well. And it was the first time I actually played all the way through - good stuff.

Started by arzoo - Last post by Temp123



The LED controller, are separate from the encoder,


Scott

Then why does this device make it seem like they aren't separate? This is where the confusion stems from...

https://www.ultimarc.com/control-interfaces/i-pacs/i-pac-ultimate-i-o/




Your front-end and emulation software installed and configured...

OK, but if the game is more PC based and not using a front-end and not using an emulator, does LED Blinky have the means to be sound reactive outside of MAME or an emulator or front end?

8   Everything Else / Re: So ... 3d Printers....on Today at 11:20:16 am

Started by Howard_Casto - Last post by HaRuMaN

Outside dimensions should be 4.5" tall by 2.75" wide.  I wouldn't make it more than 1/8" thick from outside to inside edge.  And 5/16" tall.  I'll try to get some more precise measurements.

 :cheers:

Ok cool

9   Everything Else / Re: So ... 3d Printers....on Today at 10:49:00 am

Started by Howard_Casto - Last post by pbj

Outside dimensions should be 4.5" tall by 2.75" wide.  I wouldn't make it more than 1/8" thick from outside to inside edge.  And 5/16" tall.  I'll try to get some more precise measurements.

 :cheers:

Started by Substring - Last post by Sonny_Jim_Pin

I'd be amazed if it could run on something that old.
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