The sideart and marquee look great. :applaud:
Two observations on the CPO:
1. Looks like the lower mounting bolt for the trackball is going to be right in the middle of the Marvel logo.
2. You may want to consider adjusting or removing the really heavy solid surrounds. It seems like they distract from the rest being so photo-realistic.
If you decide to keep them, maybe adjust the transparency or apply some other effect/filter/gradient.
Parting question -- Are you sure about the yellow for P2? :dunno
(Just saying that even though the capcom logo text is yellow, it does have blue outlining/fill.)
Scott
Nice job on the frame. Glad you found out about the distance between the CP and screen issue.
Will this effect your side art? Never built one from the frame out, might have to give it a try on a future build.
Got any picture of your projector screen? I'm thinking of making one myself.
:cheers:
The frame is an interesting choice. That overhang over the player's head is especially interesting, with the boxed-in walls. Is that to keep light from reflecting on the TV at 15 degrees?
Griff,
If you have an option, go for the laminate. It is so worth the money. I had never done it before, but it is a lot easier than you would think and nothing beats the finish and durability in my opinion. You can get it from the same dude I did on ebay and save $100 bucks. http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORMICA-PLASTIC-LAMINATE-BLACK-4-X-8-SHEETS-5-TOTAL-/320675131745?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aa9ba3161#ht_500wt_1156 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORMICA-PLASTIC-LAMINATE-BLACK-4-X-8-SHEETS-5-TOTAL-/320675131745?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aa9ba3161#ht_500wt_1156)
I bet if you contacted the guy you could get him to sell you 4 instead of 5 at about the same rate per sheet. The extra piece is nice to have incase of a goof up though. But if you just use wooden rods it is pretty hard to mess up. It is actually a lot easier than painting.
...local supplier that carries the Wilsonart Black vertical grade laminate stock 4'x8'...Note:
You have that awesome artwork...that's gonna cover up just about all of your sides......I thought folks bought laminate if they weren't skin up the cab like you are. Just wondering why you would buy 200.00 in laminate just to cover it up?
Gotcha, that's an expensive base layer... :)
Second big decision of the day is to return the tank stick. When I first started the project I was a little phased by the wiring and electronics involved in building a controller, but as I've looked over other peoples builds I've learned more and think that it will be something I can do. So I'm sending back the tank stick and building my own custom controller. This way I can have something I little sexier than just black buttons and sticks.
Mame buttons for two players - 14 inputs
2 joysticks - 8 inputs
Pinball buttons - 2 inputs
player start buttons - 2 inputs
player coin buttons - 2 inputs
Admin control buttons - 4 inputs
I'm thinking if I go for 7 buttons per player I can dedicate the 2 left over for pinball on the sides of the controller. Do I have the input counts correct here??
If I want to add a trackball will I need a second ipac?
I figured I just may as well go all out and add a touch screen for the admin controls
For the trackball you will need an optical encoder like the Opti-Wiz (http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=76_85&products_id=260) or the Opti-Pac (http://www.ultimarc.com/optipac1.html).
Second big decision of the day is to return the tank stick. When I first started the project I was a little phased by the wiring and electronics involved in building a controller, but as I've looked over other peoples builds I've learned more and think that it will be something I can do. So I'm sending back the tank stick and building my own custom controller. This way I can have something I little sexier than just black buttons and sticks.
See.....ask and ye shall recieve..... :dizzy:For the trackball you will need an optical encoder like the Opti-Wiz (http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=76_85&products_id=260) or the Opti-Pac (http://www.ultimarc.com/optipac1.html).
For the life of me I don't recall needing either of those in my build.....Just bought spinner and trackball and hooked it up, using only 1 IPAC....I forgot how as its been 3 years would have to pop the hood and see what the heck i did.
Second big decision of the day is to return the tank stick.
If your cab will be against a wall or in a corner, you might want to consider rear placement. I believe this helps the bass, acoustically.
If your cab will be against a wall or in a corner, you might want to consider rear placement. I believe this helps the bass, acoustically.
Yeah I thought about that but I want to make the control panel of the woofer a feature of the front panel of the cab, it will sit just under the coin door in a column which runs down the center of the cabinet under the joystick panels. I'm sure the bass may be better at the back, but believe me this thing pumps out more than enough to piss my wife off no matter where I place it.
- How many buttons did you use for your admin controls and what were they? My touchscreen software solution is planning to have 6 buttons so hopefully that is enough.
Is this going to be a MAME only cab?
IMHO admin buttons are highly over-rated i think 6 on my cab and only use 3.........Exit, Go, and Admin(tab button for mame menu)....I have a hard reset, fast forward, and a tools button, all have dust on them.
Although I use hyperspin, groovy mame or mala might call for more admin buttons.
TheShaner, two questions for you...
- How did you deal with mitered joints with the laminate? I saw Epyx's awesome tutorial on laminate and that answered a lot of questions but I noticed that he was routing the laminate with a flush bit after applying it to a mitered edge. Now I know this sounds super anal but that would leave a 16th of an inch gap between the mating faces of the mitered corner rather than having a perfectly sharp joint. How did you do your mitered laminated corners?
- How many buttons did you use for your admin controls and what were they? My touchscreen software solution is planning to have 6 buttons so hopefully that is enough.
let me know if that didnt answer your question on the laminate.
let me know if that didnt answer your question on the laminate.
No I was referring to the edges where two pieces of wood meet at an angle and both are laminated. To be honest when I think of it, I probably dont want something too sharp anyway as it might actually chip or worse injure little hands if they catch the corner wrong, so maybe the natural 'rounding' effect of having the laminate meet may be preferrable. If I see a gap I can always finish it with a little black caulking or even put some polished corner protectors on to avoid damage to the cab or humans.
Admin and exit are on the dashboard far away from gameplay...only reason to touch the dashboard would be for exit and admin purposes only.
Yes, I actually do. I will get it to you here in a couple of hours.
TheShaner, do you have the template for your control panel in an outline/vector format? If so could I steal it from you, sure would save me a lot of work reinventing the wheel, I could pull it into illustrator and then mod it to fit my cab and the extra bits and pieces like the touchscreen
Here you goSweet! Thanks a bunch!!
Every button RGB? That will take a couple of PAC's probably.
Your cab is taking shape, and it has a rotating monitor! What else can I say?
...This is the piece I have been spinning the most brain cycles on for sure.
One thing though, isn't that 4 way stick mighty close to your 8-way. I see your trying to space things out for the touchscreen. I'm thinking you'll be using the normal left hand. Seems like you would bump into that 8-way or accidentally hit buttons below it.......
Trying to work out how to double up some buttons so I can make the most of my ipac v2,Assuming that you want to run Visual Pinball or Future Pinball on your cab with the ability to properly play almost any table, including those with upper flippers or Magnasave:
. . . .
4 dedicated player 1 pinball buttons - 4 IPAC inputs
. . . .
As I am not using any admin buttons on the IPAC2 this should still leave me with 2 extra inputs
Assuming that you want to run Visual Pinball or Future Pinball on your cab with the ability to properly play almost any table, including those with upper flippers or Magnasave:
1. You need an input for ball launcher (enter) and a button {+1 input}
2. Wire the left flipper in parallel with Player 1 Button 4. (L-Shift) {-1 input}
3. Wire the left Magnasave/upper flipper in parallel with Player 1 Button 1 and Player 2 Button 1. (L-Ctrl and A) {-2 inputs}
4. Map an unused input on your encoder to R-Shift and connect it to the right flipper. {no change in # of inputs}
5. Map two unused inputs on your encoder to Apostrophe and "R-Ctrl" and connect both to the right Magnasave/upper flipper. {+2 inputs}
Thanks Scott, I do want to play pinball for sure, it's the main reason that the main screen will rotate, what do all these mysterious buttons do?Ball launcher (enter) is the same as pulling and releasing the shooter to hit the ball and send it into play. Dedicated button is definitely better than a shifted function for this one. Some tables like Attack From Mars and Medieval Madness you hold down the left flipper on launch for skillshot.
Yep I'm going to have 4 buttons for upper and lower flippers, I'll also probably spring for the digital plunger setup as it really is essential for the true pinball feel. Nudge would be good, but if I do it I'll do it with motion sensors, having nudge buttons just takes away from the reality that we are trying so hard to recreate. As for magsave, not sure on that one, I guess I'll see how my pinball playing goes and see if it even bothers me. To be honest, as long as I can play Addams Family pinball I'll be happy as a pig in poop.
I have always thought it was crazy to put cup holders on your control panel. Eventually you will spill one, after you have killed off his other 11 brothers while clearing out countless space stations of aliens, and won't that suck. Just get some nice fold up cup holders and attach them to the side behind the control panel or something.
No I meant inside your CP not on top, unless your not gonna have a base.
dont forget about the slot cutting bit for the t-molding....
I just realized that you were talking about laminating and putting artwork on the sides of your machine. What is the point of that? I dont think you will need laminate if you are just going to cover it. Someone else chime in if you have an opinion one way or the other.
On that same note, how do you plan on attaching your artwork to the control panel?
Make sure you dont cut your slots before you put a small piece of laminate on some wood and do some test cuts. I cant stress that enough! That way you can get things perfectly flush.
Missed this up until now. You're doing an excellent job. Couple of things:
+1 on the no beer holders in the CP - that would be a mistake.
the CPR encoder on the Pololu motors is a quadrature encoder, so it is good for measuring actual motor speed v/s requested speed on a robot, but not for positive positioning. There's no way I know of to use it for limit locating in this application. Sounds like DNA Dan has you going for limit switches, that is the better way by far and the controller board is set up to handle them so easily.
Massive cool points for finding and implementing that gilmer belt solution - that will be great. You're rotating a decent sized mass, more than the belt is probably designed for, so make sure you set your start speeds very low via the SMC software, to start out with, so you don't rack the belt over the gear or break the belt teeth off. Then, once you're confident it can handle the start stress, ramp it up. even if you have to start slowly you can accelerate up very quickly to a faster speed if you like.
Again, fine work and you won't regret doing the rotation deal. I still love it every time I play.
So, have you playtested at all with the play monitor at that angle? Comfortable?
Pretty killer in that it'd be easily switchable to VPins too.
Really digging the way this one is coming together.
On that same note, how do you plan on attaching your artwork to the control panel?
I'll be getting all the art done at Game on Graphix. The control panels come in a polycarbonate laminated self adhesive vinyl that is super tough.
aaaaand the final product. Still needs some fine tuning, but it's all there and working...
Rotating monitor with rotating desktop (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PI4SbL4mO7k#ws)
I said the same thing about the graphics over the laminate on page 1. I could see if you had a smaller graphic then laminate all the way, but your skinning the darn thing. Although he has a point about the smooth surface.
As far as the CP, I think it's being over-engineered. I top-mounted my sticks via EPYX's tutorial. Took my graphic to fed ex Kinkos and they printed it on a heavy high res high quality photo paper.....no adhesive, laid it right on the mdf, and put plexi over it, i have no imperfections in the graphic, as it isnt adhering directly to the mdf, the plexi and buttons snug everything up.......but to each his own everyone has to be happy with the results......
Rotating screen.... :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
I will say it one more time......nix the beer holders......you've got a masterpiece going here....once you get it up and running, food and drink wont be allowed w/i 10 feet of this thing......or one spill and you'll have 2 unused humongous holes in your CP.....
I dont allow beverages around mine, its been what 3 years CP looks the same as the day i built it.......Nothing sticky, no grime, protect your investment, dont put boobie traps on it.... :soapbox: im done..
Just don't go with bolt-on flip-down cup holders, those things are redneck, oh and your rotation is tits. Keep up the good work and build it your way, seems to me you're doing pretty well here.
Just don't go with bolt-on flip-down cup holders, those things are redneck, oh and your rotation is tits. Keep up the good work and build it your way, seems to me you're doing pretty well here.
I'll have you know I resemble that remark! Seriously though, I bought some of the happ cup holders first and didn't like them. Too bulky and distracting. These tuck away. If I ever find anything better I will swap them out.
Now back to the trailer to watch reruns of the Duke boys and suck down Schlitz.
I built it drunk, I play it drunk.
run the cables down near the center of rotation rather than out at the edge.
Can you post links on the belt and pullies? I looked on amazon but could only find stuff that was car sized/too big.
BTW, How are you locking that gear on the threaded shaft? It it just sandwiched with some lock washers?
I have been thinking of ways to reduce this to absolute minimum.
It's weird though, you'd think there would be a lot of torque on the rotation however once it's mounted in the slant position and consider the gearing, it really takes very little effort to rotate it. Keep up the good work!
I have been thinking of ways to reduce this to absolute minimum.
If you are using lightweight LED screens like this one I feel pretty confident you could drop the pulleys and belts altogether and have a true direct drive with the motor drive shaft turning the screen itself. I'd use a universal joint on the drive shaft to avoid the weight of the monitor bareing down on the motor shaft itself, this would also allow you to have the motor on it's side reducing the overall depth profile considerably. I came up with that solution after building this one, still considering if I want to tear this all down to try that route as it has less points of failure.
Another factor is I have decided having the monitor "inset" in a rotating disk to be the best design for finishing off the bezel. You could simply layer some black material over it to cover the edge of the screen.
If you go RGB on all of the buttons, and plan on just buying the buttons ready to go, rather than rigging the lights into them yourslef, do yourself a favor and get them from Ultimarc. The connectors on them will save you a ton of time and heartache. If not you will need to look into buying pins for the ends of the wires and clamping each. I have a link to them somewhere in my thread.
Good work!
How do you have connected the motor to the monitor?
Ah! Kill it with Fire! What have you done to TAF?!11!
TROUSERS MESSED!!!!!!! :drool
(Oh on that note you will all be relieved to know that I will be filling the 'cupholders' with custom made tokens for the coinslots so they will be more of an asthetic detail than somewhere to put drinks.)
look into pogo pins for your swap panel connections. more forgiving than a plug possibly.
Very nice work on the bezel. Are those red dots just printed or are the illuminated? Can you see inside the cab during the rotation? I'd like to see how you did this. I always envisioned the bezel as a square/rectangle, but removing the uneeded area actually looks really slick with the pattern there.
Jimmy's your guy for the modular CP. His stuff is very clean. :notworthy:
Hi Dan its all photoshop at the moment but I know how I am going to execute it. I like the idea of the illuminated dots but I think that may be a lot of work for a.small detail I had just planned for them to be printed.
With your marquee coming forward like that you could probalby slip in a black light or two and make those printed dots glow. You could also accent other parts of the bezel this way without having to use individual lights. Don't know if this would affect gameplay.
Really like how this thing is so different from standard builds, but highly (possibly more) functional. :cheers:
Very nice on the marquee.
What LED Controller did you use? Looks like it works very nicely for keying off the music playing. Does it use a mic or audio in?
Was wondering if you found a way to diffuse the light so each led isn't so defined.
Was wondering if you found a way to diffuse the light so each led isn't so defined.
I've had pretty good luck just putting a sheet of white paper over the LEDs, then make sure the LEDs are a couple inches back from your marquee.
You could also take some plex, run a sander over it and put that between the marquee and leds.
Yeah they are all good solutions but I just don't have that kind of thickness to play with and I have a decent decent to bridge without bowing, the fact that it's a nearly horizontal plane is turning gravity against me :angry:
I'm going to order some glass from 1dayglass today and then see from there.
Quick question - How did you attach the circular bezel to your monitor?
stunning bezel/masking treatment. I never even considered doing anything but blackout/concealment but the integration of the art takes it to a higher level. Well played, sir.
That's probably one of the best rotating montior step ups :o You're doing an awesome job
you're going to add a name to the rotating Roll of Honor:
DaOldMan
Weisshaupt
DNA Dan
[the long lost CRT rotating guys]
[me]
griffindoddNephast
Ond
plenty of others . . . .
you're going to add a name to the rotating Roll of Honor:
DaOldMan
Weisshaupt
DNA Dan
[the long lost CRT rotating guys]
[me]
griffindodd
Nephast
Ond
plenty of others . . . .
you're going to add a name to the rotating Roll of Honor:
DaOldMan
Weisshaupt
DNA Dan
[the long lost CRT rotating guys]
[me]
griffindoddNephast
Ond
plenty of others . . . .
FTFY. :-[
you're going to add a name to the rotating Roll of Honor:
DaOldMan
Weisshaupt
DNA Dan
[the long lost CRT rotating guys]
[me]
griffindoddNephast
Ond
plenty of others . . . .
FTFY. :-[
What happened to the direct drive bartop?
What was the final cost of the computer portion?
Where the hell do you get Plexi that thick for $9.00
Um, so your going to put holes in your 150.0 side art? Just noticing the fan placement.
Also, can you explain the plexi...If it's already on a shelf, why not just mount the parts directly to the shelf.
Now attaching some nice drawer rails to the plexi so you can pull it out to troubleshoot would be nice. Not sure if your thickness can handle the weight of your components though.
That bow in the panel above your PC looks scarey, are you going to reinforce that?
So I just picked up this puppy on eBay for $37...Please provide the model on that sanyo. I'm thinking of using that for a backglass/floating image monitor in a pinball project.
(http://www.kinemote.net/mame/projector.jpg)
It's an ultra short throw 4:3 1280x1024 1500 lumens portable projector, an older model but working. My idea is to use this to create an economy video marquee, I have some ideas to make it work, but who knows, we'll have to see.
cool, what's that clicking noise...
so how are you gonna have it do that automatically?
I'm guessing your video card drivers allow you to do a ctrl/alt and arrow key to change rotation then :)
I shall give Irotate a try, The inbuilt Intel chip I had did rotation of everything with no problems but the ATI stuff liked to crash when I rotated. Shumps just aren't the same in horizontal mode. Once again this is a seriously nice build, original, well thought out and superbly executed.
love this build. well done. cant wait see the finished cab ;D
i did a marvel vs capcom theme on mine, check it out.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,120269.msg1275172.html#msg1275172 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,120269.msg1275172.html#msg1275172)
What's with the ghost load? Already got a build worked out for this or is that just the base OS?
Those are not bad routing results for first time. From the pics it looks like you could route 1/8" off all four sides of each speaker opening and still have enough shelf to hold the grille, taking out the few over routed areas. Use larger material for your fences, because the spinning router generates a lot of force, possibly enough to bend the small pieces and defeat the spring clamp pressure. Good work, I've gone back plenty of times with bondo or filler to touch up router work.
love this build. well done. cant wait see the finished cab ;D
i did a marvel vs capcom theme on mine, check it out.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,120269.msg1275172.html#msg1275172 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,120269.msg1275172.html#msg1275172)
That's cool, was that an existing cab or did you make it yourself?
My CP plexi is edge lit...
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/MAME_CAB/IMG_0665.jpg)
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/MAME_CAB/IMG_9078.jpg)
Of course, it was purely accidental, since I routed about 1/64" too low for the t-molding and I didn't polish my router cuts. Looks cool though and at night, the CP looks like a playfield. :applaud: :dunno
AJ
Thanks. My CP is only being lit by the GGG buttons.It will be on all the time, plugged into the LED controller for the whole cab, I'm thinking about making the whole door smoked glass.
Will you be putting a switch on the back door to activate all that coolness, or are you going to put a plexi door? How about a door with a smoked glass window in it? Man, that'd be something.
Beautiful.
AJ
The smoked glass door would be a cool choice, I am so going to steal that Idea along with the plexi mounted board etc as we have some smoked glass doors at work from our server racks so would just need to get a glazer to cut them down to size, They are already fitted with hinges locks etc :) :)
tell me where you found the arrows on your controlpanel design, or did you design them yourself ? They're just the right design for my Arcade cabinet. So any help in the right direction is apreciated.
Just noticed something, are you putting that case in the front behind plexi?
Thanx for the arrows, they look really good .
Did you design the Revolution Fonts also yourself or did you get them somewhere ?
yes I'm from Texas...... :dunno.....you don't like texan advice.....l, :bat.
Great work though....I'll still follow your anti Texan theead :laugh2:
Man, it was a glorious day once I moved mine inside the house. I still had a lot of work to do, but I was done with the dust and getting to the electronics.
I've managed to convince my wife to do a sculpture to sit on top of the cabinet above the marquee. She teaches ceramics and mixed media in high school and she's pretty damn good at that kind of stuff so she's agreed that if I get her the artwork that she will create a 18" wide 10" high sculpture of two of the characters fighting. I'm super happy she's doing this for me as I think it will bring that extra 'one-of-a-kind' quality to this cab, and of course it's nice to have your spouse taking an interest in your hobby.
Maybe cut a few small circular holes on the top in front of Marquee lighting to give it some up light.....kill 2 birds one stone...
Visual Pinball - 300 full screen tables - Complete
Visual Pinball - 300 full screen tables - Complete
No Future Pinball?
Lots of great FP tables to choose from here (http://www.pinsimdb.org/).
Scott
Yep I'll get FP in there once I have everything else in and running, then some more of the earlier consoles.
Scott, do you know where I can get a nie collection of FP machines in a single download, ideally with an XML for HyperPin and some themes?
Interesting. I managed to find a fat wad of VP and FP media packs on the Hyperspin FTP servers so I grabbed all of those, about 350 in total between the two.
Still looking for a block of FP tables.
Thanks, I hit up the 12GB pack that should do the trick :cheers:
To be clear, No disrespect intended on your artwork, just wanted to emphasize how well the pinball layout gelled. I like it and everything is well integrated - rock on.
does anyone have a wiring diagram for the light on the power switch?
Cheap insurance to make sure that it's wired correctly:
(http://i.walmartimages.com/i/p/00/04/31/80/50/0004318050542_500X500.jpg)
(around $5 at Walmart or Lowes)
If I have space on the door I'm going to incorporate one of those fancy message/temp readout fans into it rather than use them in the marquee. They look fun up there but I don't like the flickering of the light, too close to my face when I am playing games.
What an amazing build. It looks like the monitor-rotation hits kinda hard when it stops though.
Looks like I need a little help here.I'm not an electrician. If you are at all uncomfortable with mains wiring please seek one out and ignore everything below ;)
Although my switch looks exactly like the one you posted Scott, the pinouts on the back are different in layout, I've taken a picture and labeled the pins to make it easier for anyone to explain how I should wire this configuration.
Many thanks for any help.
I'm not an electrician. If you are at all uncomfortable with mains wiring please seek one out and ignore everything below ;)
I can't find a diagram of that switch online. My amateur swag is:
A - ground
b - neutral
c - hot
I believe that C has the fuse inline with it. You can see the connecting bar go to one side of the fuse area and the tab is on the other. Test these out with a multimeter on the resistance/continuity setting and NOTHING ELSE CONNECTED.
Those 3 tabs should connect each to their own pin on the IEC connector.
Next, pull the fuse and see if it disconnects C from the IEC pin.
Next you have 4 more tabs. Based on the previous post with a similar switch you have connections for the neon light and the switch.
Again, use your meter on resistance and test it out. I'm guessing that F and G are the 2 sides of the switch. Meter from F to the other tabs and you should get connectivity to one and only one other tab or none at all. If none at all, flip the switch and test them all again. Should be one and only one.
My guess is that doing the previously mentioned step will yield that F connects to G and only when the switch is on.
Based on the really small leads you can see on D and E I suspect this is the lamp. Back to the multimeter. D should connect to E with some resistance or nothing at all. E should connect to D with some resistance. Neither D or E should show continuity to any other of the tabs. Depending on the type of lamp used you might not get any resistance or continuity between D and E. As long as they don't show connectivity to anything else we can safely proceed with careful testing.
IF all of the above proves itself out in your testing I think the wiring you want is:
A - connect to the ground in your in-cab wiring setup.
C - connect to F
G - connect to E and your in-cab "hot" wire in parallel.
B - connect to D and your in-cab "neutral wire in parallel.
As the cab is raised off the floor slightly by the wheels I think I will put a static red stip of lights in the bottom to give that nice ground FX look.
I have the same switch and used properly colored wires.
I can post a picture of it later tonight if needed.
@Werdna.
Wrapping my head around this, I think I am following you...
A - Ground - pass directly on to cab ground connection in socket.
B - neutral - via D on to cab neutral connection in socket.
C - Live - to F
G - Live - via E on to cab live connection in socket.
INPUT SOCKET
------------------------------------------------------------------
A GRD ---------------------------------------------- GRD
B NEU -------------------------------- D ----------- NEU
|
C LIV ----------F LAMP
\ |
G--------------------- E ------------ LIV
another 4GB stick of ram to take the system up to 8GB as it x64. I was having problems getting future pinball tables to load and think it is due to the onboard graphics sharing system RAM, so decided to bump it.I hope that works for you, but you may still need the extra oomph of a separate video card, especially for some of the FP tables. :dunno If it looks like the upgrade works, check your framerates to be sure. (Press "F9" while in FP)
I made a promise to myself that I wouldn't start building the controller until the rest of the cab is built and configured.A truly wise move. :angel:
http://www.amazon.com/BUSSMANN-SCHURTER-Delay-5X20mm-QUALITY/dp/B007ZE8MJ0 (http://www.amazon.com/BUSSMANN-SCHURTER-Delay-5X20mm-QUALITY/dp/B007ZE8MJ0)
http://www.amazon.com/BUSSMANN-SCHURTER-Delay-5X20mm-QUALITY/dp/B007ZE8MJ0 (http://www.amazon.com/BUSSMANN-SCHURTER-Delay-5X20mm-QUALITY/dp/B007ZE8MJ0)
Thanks Scott I just ordered the glass ones
:applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: messed
I'm not usually a fan of the rotating monitor concept, but wow, this project made me reconsider. The half tone dots rotating with it inside the + negative space was a genius move too, really help sells it.
What about running the wires from the outside of the mechanism from the back on a spring loaded arm? Instead of coming from the center?
AJ
You should of just PM'd OND, would of laid it all out for ya from the beginning....
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,88912.160.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,88912.160.html)
Scroll down and look at videos....
As your avatar slogan states......The BS is getting mighty thick....
Game on Griff Game on :applaud: :applaud:
As your avatar slogan states......The BS is getting mighty thick....
Its not just good advice. It's the
LAWS of PHYSICS
just move it off axis, put the big wheel on the monitor, small pully on the motor, keep your limit switches.
What if you direct mount the motor to the monitor and just place the pulley stationary and have the entire thing rotate around the small pully? That'll be different (bass-ackwards in fact) and would be kinda cool.
AJ
Griff, you can do it. If you would have taken everyone's advice all along the way you'd have a craptastic less cool build. You've shown that you have the building chops already to put together something innovative, I say give it a shot. The worst that happens is that it doesn't work and you have to do it their way anyway. I'm all for a direct drive and think you're right on the money.
TJC and Rablack are part of a secret cabal trying to keep you down anyway. Don't drink their coolaid man! Don't do it!
Just got the shipping confirmation for my side art and marquee from GOG, man I'm excited to see it
:woot
I found a way to write the motor control script to compensate for environmental variables such as heat, cable binding and stop limit bounce.
I used 'pulses' of speed commands with pauses inbetween in the .bat script. This way we get a launching pulse which is quite strong, a pause, then a finishing pulse which is less powerful and then finally a strong parking pulse to make sure the screen is at the end of the limit.
It does a nice job of overcoming some of the physical variances and ensures that the screen ends up where it is supposed to every time. I'm going to play with this more before deciding on moving to the stronger motor that's coming in the mail.
messsed.............
You pull that off..... :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
I don't think I can express how happy I am with the printing from Game on Grafix, I'll let the picture speak for itself...
messsed.............
You pull that off..... :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
Applying it is easy. Paying $60 for a 3'x5' piece of sticky plastic is the hard part :dizzy:
Refined the rotation scripting for this original motor as much as I can. It's a lot gentler and successfully rotates 100% of the time, but you can see the weakness in the weaker braking and unsuitable gearing. Portrait is actually very reliable but landscape has a wide range of error, although neither one really hits the stop switches with any real force.
Question is now do I tear it all apart to put in the new motor that is arriving next week just to get a slightly smoother rotation.
I'm impressed with the conceptualization to realization time griff...
This looks exactly like your original drawings and yet so much more awesome now that it is taking shape, very very good stuff.
Please tell me the cup holders are back! I love the cup holders!
Please tell me the cup holders are back! I love the cup holders!
Lol they never went away, but the jury is still out on whether they will hold any cups (buts lets not get into all that again lol)
(http://www.kinemote.net/mame/Controller-Mock-Up.jpg)
Please tell me the cup holders are back! I love the cup holders!
Lol they never went away, but the jury is still out on whether they will hold any cups (buts lets not get into all that again lol)
(http://www.kinemote.net/mame/Controller-Mock-Up.jpg)
Nooo cups! I'm always worried about company spilling it all over the CP.
Rule of the house, drinks off the arcades.
Love the ashtray right in the middle to go with the cupholders. Right on!
Love the ashtray right in the middle to go with the cupholders. Right on!
That is a beautiful looking cab, so if you must have drinks near it, please use these...
I swear I just did a google search, it wasn't like I had these saved somewhere, honest. :angel:
:cheers:
Google has everything ;D
I thought that these would stop you from putting the cup holders on your cab, guess I was wrong. Here you go.
Google has everything ;D
I thought that these would stop you from putting the cup holders on your cab, guess I was wrong. Here you go.
Maybe I could mount it in the middle of the front of the CP and drill a hole where the mouth would be
Thanks Cory.
If this thread turns into the cupholder thread I'm going to kill myself and then everyone else who has mentioned teh word cup and/or holder. :blowup:
Dang! I just fired up that Sammy 214T and it's an amazing monitor, it's viewing angles are insane, almost 180 degrees in all angles, it's a keeper
$60?? Great find.
Dang, I don't even need one of those monitors right now and I still want to order one. >:D
Are those cupholders on your CP?
Are those cupholders on your CP?
AJ
If this thread turns into the cupholder thread I'm going to kill myself and then everyone else who has mentioned teh word cup and/or holder.
Not to re-hash.....The cupholders are cool and very functional, I'm not going there. BUT..... I just want to say from a playing perspective, I don't think you're allowing enough room by the joystick for player 1. Since this position is used most often, I'd seriously reconsider the layout.
Good find on the monitor dude!
Kids drunks and electronics take up pretty much all my free time
Griff, I'm coming to your house and putting your cup holders to good use.
It's not rocket surgery people!
Back to the topic of this thread.Hot glued dental floss running to a collection bin
How are you addressing concerns about condensation on the underside of the cupholders?
It's not rocket surgery people!
It's not a table, either, bro. >:D
Again, personal preference. Just not one of mine. I'm probably clumsier than Griffith, tho.
Back to the topic of this thread.Hot glued dental floss running to a collection bin
How are you addressing concerns about condensation on the underside of the cupholders?
I'm thinking of removing the coin slot and putting a keggerator in there
I'm thinking of removing the coin slot and putting a keggerator in there
Sometimes you just have to...
Tear it all apart and say 'not good enough, go back and try harder' ::)
Looking awesome dude. Really enjoying seeing this one come together. Keep up the good work.
Looking awesome dude. Really enjoying seeing this one come together. Keep up the good work.
Thanks man, how many gray hairs did you grow making Mission Control? I think I got at least 5 today doing this :dizzy:
Your direct drive it tits. :applaud:
where did you get that vinyl from? is that as good as the partsexpress vinyl most people use around here?
I agree with Le Chuck. I like the direct drive, space saving and simple.
Congrats on your daughters Baptism, I know you are proud of her.
Really nice work on this cab.
I never wanted to build a rotating cab until seeing yours. Bookmarked for future reference!
Testing Karaoke lighting mode, I think I am having too much fun with this...
Karaoke lighting (Gangnam Style) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZ_65sRYD5M#)
So I did an interesting little test tonight with my bargain $37 short-throw projector I picked up used on eBay...
(http://www.kinemote.net/mame/projectormarquee.jpg)
The image is 27" wide and the distance from the back of the projector to the screen is 27"
.... :o.... :P...... >:D...... :applaud:....... :cheers:
27" is from the back of the projector, maybe add an inch for the VGA plug length
I've gotta get me one of those!
Nice man.......looks awesome gets better everyday.....
Only thing i would say is diffuse those leds on the floor....a glow would look way better than the circus effect, unless that's the look you want.
Finally I have finished up the main cab!!!! :applaud:
I promised myself I wouldn't start on the controller until the whole cab was ready, and now I can start to think about joysticks, buttons and trackballs.
Finally I have finished up the main cab!!!! :applaud:
I promised myself I wouldn't start on the controller until the whole cab was ready, and now I can start to think about joysticks, buttons and trackballs.
Bro, I could totally build you a custom LED control panel for $99.95.
Use the tablet only if you can auto rotate it.
If I do the touch, I actually think I am going to go full embedded, it has to look like part of the CP however it ends up being attached.
More artwork enhancements and a better idea of the screen and how it will look embedded.
(http://www.kinemote.net/mame/control004.jpg)
Yeah, then try a smoked plexi, like on the monitor. Not sure how the vinyl will translate through it though. Hmmmm.
Yeah, then try a smoked plexi, like on the monitor. Not sure how the vinyl will translate through it though. Hmmmm.
If he uses smoked plexi, then how's he going to use the touchscreen capability of the tablet?
Maybe I missed this, but did you ditch the cup holders?
If this thread turns into the cupholder thread I'm going to kill myself and then everyone else who has mentioned teh word cup and/or holder. :blowup:
You can build it yourself with about 400 little squares of aluminum foil and a bunch of teeny tiny wires.
The day that frothy beverage spills on it and you post it.......Not a soul is gonna put in the $$$$$$ to help you fix it.I hereby solemnly pledge $19 if this ever happens. I arrived at this figure by the number of times the above has jizzed in his pants in this thread.
If I did decide to embed I'd go with something cheaper as it would only be stuck in the control panel, for what I'd use it for strictly in the CP there's no need for anything crazy...
$75 shipped for a 7" Multitouch Tegra 2 with Ice Cream Sandwich, perfectly good for the job...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-IRULU-7-Android-4-0-Tablet-PC-Multi-touch-Capacitive-Screen-A10-4GB-512MB-/300767336500?_trksid=p3284.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252BUFI%26otn%3D21%26pmod%3D300760229581%26ps%3D54 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-IRULU-7-Android-4-0-Tablet-PC-Multi-touch-Capacitive-Screen-A10-4GB-512MB-/300767336500?_trksid=p3284.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252BUFI%26otn%3D21%26pmod%3D300760229581%26ps%3D54)
If I could find a slick way to make it look embedded but be easily removable then i would consider the Nexus 7
The day that frothy beverage spills on it and you post it.......Not a soul is gonna put in the $$$$$$ to help you fix it.I hereby solemnly pledge $19 if this ever happens. I arrived at this figure by the number of times the above has jizzed in his pants in this thread.
PS, it's starting to smell a bit funky in here.
Not that great of a find IMO. Bidding starts at $199 with a reserve no doubt. The buy it now is $499. It's a refurb, not a factory stock. Your mileage might vary quite a bit.
He already bought one. ;D
Bro, you sure you didn't route too far down on those jstiks, you might have graphic sag below your plexi....
If you're top mounting shouldn't the plate be flush with the CP?
They are suppose to go on top of the plexi man....
If you do it right, you can have the dust washer right under the top of the CP where it belongs.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=185314)
Aye, I'll use the extended offset base attachment on that cut, plus I'll go from the back of the CP with the plate on the opposite side to put a little distance between the cut and the bearing.
Another thing I thought about during our dust-washer discussion...
For those people who under-mount the sticks and have their 1"1/8 hole coming through the wood - you could wrap some LED ribbon inside the edges of the hole in the wood and then put a thin white/translucent dust washer over it then mask that with art and acrylic on top. This way you would get a really nice lit area around the base of your stick. You could do it RGB and run it to your PAC64 to be extra fancy.
Just be careful. Having 3/4" between the cut and any underlying surface can create chatter and cracking. Plexi is an unforgiving mistress.
Just be careful. Having 3/4" between the cut and any underlying surface can create chatter and cracking. Plexi is an unforgiving mistress.
Good point. Trouble is I have that gap between the blade and the bearing, hmmmm
For those people who under-mount the sticks and have their 1"1/8 hole coming through the wood - you could wrap some LED ribbon inside the edges of the hole in the wood and then put a thin white/translucent dust washer over it then mask that with art and acrylic on top. This way you would get a really nice lit area around the base of your stick. You could do it RGB and run it to your PAC64 to be extra fancy.
No the washer itself is white/translucent
I have the Paradise LED Balltops but I don't like the design at all, the way they have implemented the LED is very clunky and relies on the $12 each non-binding slip connects to make sure they don't get all wound up and broken (Shaner can tell you all about that).
Currently I'm waiting ono supplies for a shaft design I'm working on that will be fully non-binding RGB LED's and will hopefully drop into virtually any stick. Waiting on the bits to come from China but I'll post the results once I have something to show.
What strips can be cut down to single LED length? All the ones I've seen are cuttable every 3 LEDs. This is why I ordered surface mount RGB LEDs to wire myself for my joystick lighting.
ok......man your accent is confusing, i heard aussie, american, and british.....
Freakin melting pot you are...
ok......man your accent is confusing, i heard aussie, american, and british.....
Freakin melting pot you are...
:laugh2: I felt the same way
Telling you man, DDR dance pads and your set.....
Also, what are you do with the sides of your CP, Laminate, wrap in the carbon vinyl?
Thanks man. I have OMNI2's ready to drop in but I am modding the shafts to RGB and carbon fiber shafts with Clear tops.
It looks fine, Griffith. You painted them, so it's not like they stand out. Besides, you won't be opening the top much anyway. Don't sweat the small stuff.
There's no way in hell I would have puttied those pockets. They just look too cool. With the CF, diamond plate and everything else going on, it works perfect.
Man, I love pocket screws. What tool did you use for that? I'd love to get one if it's cheap enough.
AJ
Garrrr I hate you guys.
Truth is I am totally freaked out by the idea of sealing a structural screw behind filler. That's why I haven't used glue on any structural joint in this entire cab, I could completely disassemble the whole thing if I wanted to with one screwdriver and put it back together again without any damage.
That being said yes it would look better filled and the box doesn't need to be pulled apart.
Thanks for keeping me on the straight and narrow.
Now shut yer cockholsters :laugh2:
Funny, anyway whose to say I wont be lining this box with angel wing encrusted led laced kryptonite lattice and that the red it mearly an undercoat?
Look at it like this...you've been doing great at keeping this thread XXX, should you decide to go to X or the soft porn. I will be forced to change the channel sir.... :cry:
Here's a little tool porn for ya while I'm waiting on materials. I always seemed to use crappy soldering irons and they never worked well or just broke, so I decided to just bite the bullet and get something that will last and help me do a better job.
One thing this build experience has taught me that investing in your tools is money well spent
(http://www.kinemote.net/mame/build193.jpg)
Look at it like this...you've been doing great at keeping this thread XXX, should you decide to go to X or the soft porn. I will be forced to change the channel sir.... :cry:
Lol you're such a freak. Instead of messing yourself constantly, do something useful like finding me a complete set of Williams Blaster PCBs
Man, I love pocket screws. What tool did you use for that? I'd love to get one if it's cheap enough.
AJ
Yo, send me a link of what the hell those are, and I'll give it a go...I'm pretty good at finding stuff....
Man, I love pocket screws. What tool did you use for that? I'd love to get one if it's cheap enough.
AJ
Kregg Pocket screws and Jig, cheap enough at Lowes
(http://www.coastaltool.com/a/ab/kreg/images/mini-kreg-jig.jpg)
Yeah not sure if I want to put myself through that much pain, I'll chew on it.
Ordered my diamond plate for the foot rest area.
Ordered 55' of bright red 3/4 T-Molding today, got tired of waiting for the 11/16 sample and I really don't want to pay $60+shipping for 250' of molding when I barely need 1/5 of it.
Put in an order at Gamemolding.com as t-molding.com was having some weird issue where they couldn't do any shipping until after the 27th of the month. So I get through placing my order at Gamemolding.com and then they tell me AFTER the order is completed that their shipping is delayed until the 22nd of the month :angry: WTF is that all about? Some worldwide T-molding shortage, or do all T-molding traders go on vacation at the same time? Did they all go to the T-Molding World Expo????
Yeah, sometimes stout balding dudes in socks show up in my garage wanting to play games too. They usually want beer as well. It's a problem.
Just a little update.
Took the original control panel mockup that I made wayyyyyy back in week one and dropped it on top of the control box just to get a feel for how the cab is going to look. It's still got the old design on it, but I feel pretty good that after all this time it still fits perfectly on the base, feels good to know that my original designs and dimensions have stood the test of time.
(http://www.kinemote.net/mame/build198.jpg)
I am hoping to get most of the control panel finished this weekend, I have all my equipment, acrylic and art ready so it's a matter of finding time and getting this final piece done. Trouble is I have a wedding to go to which will involve a lot of tequila on Saturday, so we'll see how good I feel about wielding power tools on Sunday :dizzy:
hi guys! I am new on this stuff.. I was gonna ask .. what is the type of papers/decor used on your arcade cabs? are those stickers?
Thankfully the print only costs $11 as I get it done at Staples on their indoor banner printer
Lol what? WHo? Nothing
I'm a little concerned about the vibration from the joysticks being slammed around on top of the panel wearing away the hole threads around the brackets in the box, I wonder if they are going to dissolve over time and come loose? Anyone had this problem with their hinges in MDF or am I just being over cautious?
I'm a little concerned about the vibration from the joysticks being slammed around on top of the panel wearing away the hole threads around the brackets in the box, I wonder if they are going to dissolve over time and come loose? Anyone had this problem with their hinges in MDF or am I just being over cautious?
hypocrite, so he can get wood, but i cant mess my trousers.......... :angry:
RIT dye and some boiling water...
AJ
Resolved my pocket hole problem, some of these in black should look pretty cool...
Got a name for the part and a link for anyone who wants to get some?
The cupholders are officially dead for integration into the main panel. When they arrived the height of the lip on the edge of the holder was too high for my liking, too close to the joystick hand on the player one stick. I may look into an additional add-on for them later that is stepped down and back from the CP but still works with the box design.
drill some thread inserts into the middle of the dowels and then have something like this screw down into them.
(http://www.maxiloc.com.au/dbpics/Star_Grips_06212_-_Image.jpg)
I can make it easily removable from under the acrylic through the top of the CP via a routed slot so I'm going to go ahead and do that. That way my wife can use it for Majhong and entertaining babby on those long car trips.
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41w1L03bNVL._SL500_SS500_.jpg)
hey can you post the amazon link for the rgb music kit....I can't seem to find it all together.
I see a remote and the controller for $17.00, but it's not grouped with the power supply and the rgb strip...
@wcnDave, the dowels have a much thicker diameter and fit very tight so they offer good strength and stability, the screw down knobs will just protect against any vertical lift however unlikely and look fancy :P
This really is a fantastic looking thing. :applaud:
My way is better, all other opinions are wrong. >:D
I understand, but I have already glued in the D0-W3L-x3 Lateral Shift Negation System
sh*tty
The cupholders are officially dead for integration into the main panel. When they arrived the height of the lip on the edge of the holder was too high for my liking, too close to the joystick hand on the player one stick.
but you just don't need them....
to hold BOTH down and sideways... you have a hole in PC [i meant CP of course..], a hole in the board underneath, put a star knob through the holes and tighten. job done.
If you are not wanting to have the other end of the star knob drop out inside the cab whenever you need to remove it you do the following.
get a normal nut that fits your star knob, let's say it's 16mm across
drill/route a hole halfway through from the bottom say 14mm
push the nut in the hole as much as you can, apply some epoxy (just to stop it falling out, not to stop it turning) and then insert and tighten the star knob from the other side.
this will draw the bolt into the hole and create a hexagon hole.
then you can just bolt it down using the star knobs, and remove when you like.
easy peasy
woodworking i know ;-)
So instead of precisely fitting everything and having a nice looking and stable solution your answer is to ratchet some nuts directly into the wood destroying the surrounding grain and creating future points of failure?
Yep, you know your wood working alright ;D
Was there a reason you came in after Griff had already done the work and recommended that he rip it all out and do it your way other than hubris?
I am sorry that Griff's excellent thread is getting hijacked by ignorants who don't want to listen to better advice and trollishly claim to know it all, when others are trying to help Griff create a work of perfection (although he seems to do pretty well alone!)
I had planned to get a lot done but for some reason things just crawled along.
Hiya ladies, looks like you have all been having a nice chin-wag.
Any of you master craftsmen got a technique for building up that corner on the acrylic rather than sanding it even further away to get it right?
excuse my laziness, can you tell me why you chose the pac64 over the ledwiz for your led controller?
hey is your t-molding flush with your laminate.....Mine sits flush perfectly, I used the vertical laminate from eBay. The thing I noticed though is that 3/4" t-molding from different places can actually vary a fair bit in size, I guess all 3/4" is not the same. Mine is from t-molding.com and fits great on 5/8 mdf double laminated and then one side with vinyl wrapped behind the t-mold.
This thing has come a long way! I like how you think outside the box!! Have a link for that tablet? Im looking to get one and mold it into where my stereo is in my Ranger.
LeChuck is moody
Any chance you could post a new video a month of some gameplay on this badboy?
Any of you master craftsmen got a technique for building up that corner on the acrylic rather than sanding it even further away to get it right? Of course the last cut I do in a fully finished piece is the one that borks up.
I could have done without the Debby Gibson in the background on the video though, it made me shudder with 80's flashbacks of parachute pants and big hair.
I could have done without the Debby Gibson in the background on the video though, it made me shudder with 80's flashbacks of parachute pants and big hair.
Lol, when I did my all nighter I left the 80's channel on the TV while I sat there wiring, I even joked with my wife about sitting at home on a Friday night building an arcade machine while listening to 80's tunes - BIG HAIR FOREVER!!!!! :afro:
Very nice job! The artwork really pops. So where's the minicade? I know you have enough parts leftover to build a second one......
When I do scratch build again it will be a sit down cab, probably a dedicated driver and yolk build.
Have you tried going into table mode and assigning the keys there? I had all sorts of problems with mine at first because and ended up remapping all of the keys in table mode. Then I went back and made sure everything jived in the layout mode.
Have you tried going into table mode and assigning the keys there? I had all sorts of problems with mine at first because and ended up remapping all of the keys in table mode. Then I went back and made sure everything jived in the layout mode.
Yeah I may have to give that a try, something is weird.
you have light controls checked on the led configuration game options tab?
You've gotten everything straight in the ledblinkyinputmap.ece right?
yeah ask arzoo.
you mapped your button in the generate led blinky input map right
add the key strokes....my keystrokes are in my setup...
add the key strokes....my keystrokes are in my setup...
Yep that was it, eeeeesh. Thanks.
All buttons and colorslighting in games and they match the CP layouts that show on the BA kglass so that's awesome.
How can I choose default colors for keys when they are lit? Guess I need to write an animation.
Just got to hammer out a couple of bugs now. When mashing in fighting games some key combinations quit hide and toggle the window for make. Also hyperspin crashes when trying to view my favorites since I rebuilt Mame. Xml so I guess ill need to clean that
That's too bad. I just pulled the trigger on that tablet for one of my kids. After MONDO research on low cost tabs, that one seemed to be the best bang/buck. I think she'll enjoy it, though. She'll just be using it for angry birds, some web surfing and Netflix streaming movie type things...
AJ
Peek a boo!That's too bad. I just pulled the trigger on that tablet for one of my kids. After MONDO research on low cost tabs, that one seemed to be the best bang/buck. I think she'll enjoy it, though. She'll just be using it for angry birds, some web surfing and Netflix streaming movie type things...
AJ
It's a great little tablet, I'm sure she'll enjoy it, it's just not the right fit for a serial flasher.......erm.......that came out wrong :laugh2:
Peek a boo!That's too bad. I just pulled the trigger on that tablet for one of my kids. After MONDO research on low cost tabs, that one seemed to be the best bang/buck. I think she'll enjoy it, though. She'll just be using it for angry birds, some web surfing and Netflix streaming movie type things...
AJ
It's a great little tablet, I'm sure she'll enjoy it, it's just not the right fit for a serial flasher.......erm.......that came out wrong :laugh2:
(http://static.guim.co.uk/sys-images/Lifeandhealth/Pix/pictures/2009/7/10/1247218093988/Flasher-in-a-mac-001.jpg)
Thanks Guys, one day I'll get around to making a video I promise.......one day
Yeah I have to try and finish up that video. With the impending house move and all the decisions to be made prior to moving in things are getting a bit nuts. That being said I do have a pretty interesting rather large project ahead in the new house. Check out the concepts...
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/01/26/7aquju3e.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/01/26/bazyde4e.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/01/26/ahyzagad.jpg)
Sent from my pocket ZX81
Hey there Griff, I have rolled original American one-sheets of all three of those posters if you are interested >:D
Awesome concept! Love the gameroom and the theatre is very suave. Wish I had that much space here in Japan. I think that you should go for a Tudor Revival Theme from the 1920s or maybe a 1930s Art Deco. Give that theatre some BLING!! I have your entrance and exit facades for you. These are pictures from the Old Chicago Uptown theater.... The Art Deco Pic is from a Theatre in Lincoln Nebraska before they reformed. Check out that GOLD LEAF door molding! I say have somebody CNC some of this goodness for ya ;D
In a word, AWESOME, or maybe not :laugh2:
Hey there Griff, I have rolled original American one-sheets of all three of those posters if you are interested >:D
But, one of the first things we plan on doing once I have prepped and applied acrylic flooring in the garage is the purchase of a complete BlackToe 8x4 CNC router, yep I said it, an 8'x4'x5" computer controlled, liquid cooled 2kw spindle material chewing monster. I plan on using it for many projects, the first of which will be a full custom kitchen overhaul. And of course with a unit like that the possibilities around the house and hobbies will be endless. I'm planning about $5k budget for the cutter and dust management.
Can't wait to unleash my spindly cutting ideas on planet Earth!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ahhh yes the posters, indeed there will be a need for many posters.
But, many things must happen between now and then, including actually purchasing this damn house which seems to be taking forevahhhhhhhhhhhh :banghead:
But, one of the first things we plan on doing once I have prepped and applied acrylic flooring in the garage is the purchase of a complete BlackToe 8x4 CNC router, yep I said it, an 8'x4'x5" computer controlled, liquid cooled 2kw spindle material chewing monster. I plan on using it for many projects, the first of which will be a full custom kitchen overhaul. And of course with a unit like that the possibilities around the house and hobbies will be endless. I'm planning about $5k budget for the cutter and dust management.
Can't wait to unleash my spindly cutting ideas on planet Earth!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ha thanks Slig, well it's all just concept right now and I know it will change over time. I'm seriously considering some different themes aside from the standard deco 'n' columns theater look. If the wife will buy in then I'd really like to build out a Star Wars interior for the arcade and the theater making it look like a movie set but I'm ot sure how crazy I can get before she pulls the 'back down to reality' card
Holy crap! I haven't been on these boards for a long time. This machine is friggin amazing! Laser lights? Are you kidding me?! A 'message fan' easter egg on the back?! Rotating screen?! A tablet to watch 80's movies?! Jeebus! Dude waching the vid of your cab made my day. Very, very well done. Way to bring arcade cabs into the 21st century! Great work & thanks for sharing your build.
Just now found time to watch the video all the way through.
Excellent job!
Really love the way you are rotating the monitor.
:applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
Truly amazing work.
Again like the Lil Ms. Pac Man the ideas are just fantastic.
So many great ideas.
Love the ambient lighting.
Where did you get the material for your speaker grills ?
Does it have a specific name ?
Thanks for the info AJ.
I'm all stoked to do some cosmetic light mods now to my 2 projects in the garage.
I actually bought my cold cathodes to mount behind a Nintendo sign, but later thought it would be cool to add
them on the lil toe kick area on the bottom of a cabinet.
Never thought about marquee lighting, I like that its all 12V.
Good job I built those seats into the foot well
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/18/tu3a2aza.jpg)
Rotation motor upgrade came in today
As you can see it's considerably beefier than the older motor, it turns at 10rpm and is a 12v motor with a torque of 14kg/cm
(http://www.kinemote.net/mame/build146.jpg)
(http://www.kinemote.net/mame/build147.jpg)
As I didn't do many photos of the direct drive build the first time I figured I should take a few during the rebuild.
Here's the back of the monitor showing the old drive collar screwed into the monitor casing at the center of the Lazy Susan baring
(http://www.kinemote.net/mame/build148.jpg)
I bought a new set of mounting brackets and collars to fit the larger diameter motor and driveshaft, I got these from Pololu although the motor itself was from eBay
(http://www.kinemote.net/mame/build149.jpg)
New collar in place with a set screw for position
(http://www.kinemote.net/mame/build150.jpg)
6 M4 screws holding this in place, this aint going anywhere
(http://www.kinemote.net/mame/build151.jpg)
For the mount screws and D-Shaft collar screw I'm going to use heavy duty thread lock
(http://www.kinemote.net/mame/build152.jpg)
The motor in place with a large M4 screw driven into the collar thread rather than the tiny little alan key jobbies that come with the collar.
(http://www.kinemote.net/mame/build153.jpg)
On my monitor support platform I drill my mounting holes for the lazy susan baring and the clearance hole for the motor.
(http://www.kinemote.net/mame/build154.jpg)
Here's another view of the underside of the monitor platform. You can see the USB Pololu controller that drives the motor, the 12v power supply and the wiring for the two limit switches that stop the rotation.
(http://www.kinemote.net/mame/build155.jpg)
Bracket mount bent flat to secure the motor to the underside of the monitor platform and the lazy susan screws bolted in nice and tight, all done
(http://www.kinemote.net/mame/build156.jpg)
All that was left to do was wire the new motor to the screw terminals on the motor control board and we are ready to test.
New high torque motor (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=13wl-9rN3Ck#ws)
Nice and stable movement, solid stopping and braking at a nice precise angle in vertical and horizontal planes. The microphone on the phone's video camera makes it sound like the monitor is slamming into the switches but it's really quite subtle, more of a positive 'click'. A big improvement. :applaud:
Regarding the Motor Controller:
Could this be powered by the PC's 12V PSU and not a separate one?
Do you remember the make and model of the PSU you went with?
Regarding the Motor Controller:
Looking at Pololu's website it can be ordered with different amp's from anywhere between 7A - 25A's
Could you let me know what you went with?
Regarding the Lazy Susan bearing and the driveshaft motor collar:
How were they fixed - I see the screws and the mentioning of lock thread, but did you drill new holes on the back of the monitor for these?
(I assume that is what you did, but I'm thinking there would be a chance of drilling or screwing into somehing important-ish)
Regarding the Motor Controller:
Could this be powered by the PC's 12V PSU and not a separate one?
Do you remember the make and model of the PSU you went with?
Regarding the Motor Controller:
Looking at Pololu's website it can be ordered with different amp's from anywhere between 7A - 25A's
Could you let me know what you went with?
Regarding the Lazy Susan bearing and the driveshaft motor collar:
How were they fixed - I see the screws and the mentioning of lock thread, but did you drill new holes on the back of the monitor for these?
(I assume that is what you did, but I'm thinking there would be a chance of drilling or screwing into somehing important-ish)
Hi there,
Yes I think you should be able to drive the motor with the Computer's PSU, just make sure you have a good quality PSU so the Amp draw doesn't start making your computer crash from the load of running the motor. The dedicated power supply I used was from Amazon for about $20, cant remember the exact brand.
I bought this controller - #1373 Pololu Simple Motor Controller 18v7 = $31.95
Yes I drilled into the housing of the monitor, probably best to do this with it removed to be safe, I didn't myself but I'ma bit mad like that sometimes.
In my ongoing vow not to neglect my original cab and keep adding to it, I purchased a major upgrade today with the hope of installing it at a later date, the mega daddy of all 4:3 LCD screens a Planar WS231 23.1" beasty.
(http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa368/wheelerdealerincXXIX/Ebay%20IV/monitorDDmar182.jpg)
The panels in these screens are typically used in medical, boating and military applications, but the Planar monitor used it too. The thing is a beast weighing 40lbs, but it has a nice 160 degree viewing angle and 1600x1200 native resolution.
The idea is to transplant this into the Revolution cab at some point to maximize the playing area and stick to the more traditional 4:3 aspect ratio.
7A will be fine, it's only a single small motor (...)
Thanks for reply. I will try my best to come up with my own but base of these great design. I would help tremendously if i can start from this less error and cost. If any of you have any link to a printable plan or more addvice about cabinet please link me thank you.Msg Connorsdad. He built a replica of this.