The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: Locke141 on September 11, 2013, 12:05:45 pm
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After one and a half years it is finnished!
I am posting two pics above my first post of this project. More pics and details will follow at the end.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=323340)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=323334)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=320277)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=320281)
Original first post below.
Last June I got really excited to start my first build. Before starting our beloved french bull dog, Chunk, was diagnosed with cancer and passed away a week later. The preparation for this build was a great help to me, so I am dedicating this build to him.
As I start posting pic's you may ask your self "How does some one with a whole wood shop have such poor wood working skills?", well the answer is the wood shop belongs to the school I teach at, in east Africa. The DT teacher is letting me use the equipment after school.
I had to buy all the arcade parts when I was back in the U.S.A this summer. If I didn't bring it, its not going to be added, Shipping is not an option. The aim is to build a for player pedestal with Beat'em up + Gauntlet theme based off some plans I found for the front base "controller part" of the 6player X-man cab. Beat'em up -X is a working title derived from my love of the 90's Beat them up's and the X is for the x-man plans that got me started. If any one has a better name in mind feel free to share.
Take a look at my ruff draft for a theme and let me know what you think.
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I'm going with an angled button layout, instead of the straight one shown in the pic. Never mind the two random white circles to the top right.
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Pic
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Laminating two 4' by 2' MDF sheets to get a 3/4'' with.
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This was just before my first cut of the project.
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These three pics show where I was at the end of the second day of the project.
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:applaud: :applaud:
looking good so far. One question, why do you have 6 buttons on player 3 and player 4?
What games are you planning on playing?
:cheers:
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:applaud: :applaud:
looking good so far. One question, why do you have 6 buttons on player 3 and player 4?
What games are you planning on playing?
:cheers:
I'm going to go with a different button lay out then the pic. All 4 players will be 6 primary button but at an angle.
Guardian Heroes for the sega saturn is the single greatest hack and slash/beat them up of all time. That one game is reason enough. There will also be a coin and Player button for each player, that will act as the L R buttons on saturn games.
I found a open Beat'em up engine (OpenBOR) you can find lots of games for. I figured it's cheep and easy to just add the buttons now.
I will also add the 16 bit consul gems of the beat'em up line up.
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Guardian Heroes for the sega saturn is the single greatest hack and slash/beat them up of all time. That one game is reason enough. There will also be a coin and Player button for each player, that will act as the L R buttons on saturn games.
I found a open Beat'em up engine (OpenBOR). People have made lots of games for. I figured it's cheep and essay to just add the buttons now.
I will also add the 16 bit consul gems of the beat'em up line up.
I'm a fan of beat 'em ups.
Thanks for posting about those games. I never did mess with Saturn emulation, but will have a reason to now.
Also wasn't aware of OpenBOR.
I haven't played it yet and reviews aren't great, but greenmangaming currently has The Asskickers (somewhat of a Streets of Rage parody) for $2.39 with promo code GMG20-8MUTY-M21VN
http://www.greenmangaming.com/s/us/en/pc/games/action/asskickers/ (http://www.greenmangaming.com/s/us/en/pc/games/action/asskickers/)
It requires greenmangaming's capsule client to download. I don't think that entails any DRM, but I haven't downloaded and installed it yet.
There is also "Streets of Rage Remake". I think SEGA had it yanked, but you can still find it.
EDIT: Demolish Fist on Demul emulator is pretty good too if you have PC powerful enough to emulate it. One of the few emulated arcade games that I've bothered to play all the way to the end. Guilty Gear Isuka is a 4 player fighting game on Demul that uses 5 buttons per player. There are a few other hack and slash games playable with that emulator, but I can't think of them at the moment.
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Since you are mostly into beat'em ups, not sure if you care... But if you angle players 3 and 4 it will be almost impossible to play 2 player dual controller games like total carnage and smash tv (not sure if there are any others).
I am basically doing the same layout but cannot decide if 2 player Total Carnage is worth it...
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Guardian Heroes for the sega saturn is the single greatest hack and slash/beat them up of all time. That one game is reason enough. There will also be a coin and Player button for each player, that will act as the L R buttons on saturn games.
I found a open Beat'em up engine (OpenBOR). People have made lots of games for. I figured it's cheep and essay to just add the buttons now.
I will also add the 16 bit consul gems of the beat'em up line up.
I'm a fan of beat 'em ups.
Thanks for posting about those games. I never did mess with Saturn emulation, but will have a reason to now.
Also wasn't aware of OpenBOR.
I haven't played it yet and reviews aren't great, but greenmangaming currently has The Asskickers (somewhat of a Streets of Rage parody) for $2.39 with promo code GMG20-8MUTY-M21VN
http://www.greenmangaming.com/s/us/en/pc/games/action/asskickers/ (http://www.greenmangaming.com/s/us/en/pc/games/action/asskickers/)
It requires greenmangaming's capsule client to download. I don't think that entails any DRM, but I haven't downloaded and installed it yet.
There is also "Streets of Rage Remake". I think SEGA had it yanked, but you can still find it.
Thanks Badmouth, I'll take a look.
On a side note. When I first joined BYOAC and posted some questions about my ideas for a build, I was so discouraged by all the negative feed back I almost gave up. You wrote some words of encouragement that helped me make up my mind to keep at it. So if I end up on crap MAME its all your fault :lol .
Just kidding thanks for the boost.
P.S. Guardian Heroes has ben on Xbox 360 for a wile.
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Since you are mostly into beat'em ups, not sure if you care... But if you angle players 3 and 4 it will be almost impossible to play 2 player dual controller games like total carnage and smash tv (not sure if there are any others).
I am basically doing the same layout but cannot decide if 2 player Total Carnage is worth it...
I haven't even considered that limitation. Do you think if I keep the p 2 (Red) level ish with p 4 (Yellow) and P1 (blue) to P3 (Green) it may be playable? It would be a bit of a reach but all joy stick should be angled to the monitor anyway.
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It would be a bit of a reach but all joy stick should be angled to the monitor anyway.
No, no they shouldn't. See: TMNT, The Simpsons, etc...
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OpenBOR = Beats of Rage?
theres literally a ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- ton of BOR games, most ported to the DC.
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looks like you are off to a good start. i'm glad to see a few others building 4 player pedestal panels. thanks for posting about those games, i'm looking into adding them to my cabinet when it is finished.
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It would be a bit of a reach but all joy stick should be angled to the monitor anyway.
No, no they shouldn't. See: TMNT, The Simpsons, etc...
I may have not said what I meant.
The included pic is a better way to show what I mean.
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Lots of progress made today. All the angles cut and gluing started.
Dam, getting every thing right takes a lot of measuring, time, measuring, patience, measuring, and did I say measuring. Some guys here make it look easy. My head hurt by the last cut. :dizzy:
Question about attaching/ gluing all the MDF together. On the lateral face, should I glue and put it all in place and use a ratchet strap to hold every thing together? After all the work and measuring to get every thing just right, I'd hate to mess it up now.
I used AJ's instructions on "armoring" the cut edges of MDF. It seem to have worked out well. It was so cheep, quick, and EZ I would recommend his step by step instructions to others.
Here are some pics, I'll add more when I get home tonight. Added
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Drilled the P1 & P2 buttons to day.
Still working on where to place my start and coin buttons. The catch is I want them to double as Left and Right buttons for Sega Saturn and SNES Games.
I used the Horis 36 templet from slag coin in a 6 button layout. I was thinking of making the first two columns in to three rows following the same curve. The coin/Left and start/Right buttons would be LED lit, unlike the 6 other buttons. Is this a terrible idea?
Does any one know if I could have a dedicated shift key button with an I-pac. I want to have one button that has no other use then to shift the p1 keys to admin keys. I feel like Im at the limit of buttons already.
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I used the Horis 36 templet from slag coin in a 6 button layout. I was thinking of making the first two columns in to three rows following the same curve. The coin/Left and start/Right buttons would be LED lit, unlike the 6 other buttons. Is this a terrible idea?
I don't follow what you're saying about the layout. Looks like your holes are already cut.On the slagcoin layout, my preference would be to chop the first column of buttons off instead of the last, but that's just a preference.
Use whatever feels comfortable to you. Test it out. Actually use it to play some games first.
I think lighting the coin and start buttons is a good idea. It shows they have a different function than the action buttons.
EDIT: Ok, I get what you're saying now after reading your post in the main forum. I think they'd look better staggered between the three top buttons.
Definitely make them a different color or something to differentiate them from the action buttons.
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I used the Horis 36 templet from slag coin in a 6 button layout. I was thinking of making the first two columns in to three rows following the same curve. The coin/Left and start/Right buttons would be LED lit, unlike the 6 other buttons. Is this a terrible idea?
Here are some last minute sketch ups to clarify. There not 100% spot on but they should better convey my ideas.
The black dots are already cut out, the reds are different possible placements for coin/Left and start/Right.
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IMO (limited to MS paint at work)
Maybe a little higher, but you get the idea.
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More like....
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More like....
I like it.
Hopefully I'll have time to work on the CP today.
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I cut the Player 2 coin/Left and start/Right button today.
In the pic below, you can see a peace of scrap ply that was drilled through to make a templet. This templet was later used to mark the coin/Left and start/Right button for all four players. I should have time tomorrow to cut the remaining 6 button holes.
Hopefully next week I'll be able to get the MDF primer , pick out a type of hinge and install, construct a simple base, and cut the t-molding groove.
I still need to decide if I'll higher a trained local artist to paint my design onto the CP. I can get it hand painted for $40-60 here in Tanzania. I was also thinking of having the dragons head hand carved out of some recovered hard wood. I got a quote for 110,000 TSH (about $69 USD). I have commissioned work from these guys before and was very happy with the outcome.
As a side note, lots of the kids at work (the school I teach at) are super excited about the build. The DT teacher and I get asked every day when will it be done and if they can play when it is.
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looks like a good choice for button locations. up above the main action buttons, but close enough to be used as action buttons. very cool
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Lots of work done to day. ;D
- All the buttons holes cut, except for the shift key, still planning the placement.
- T-molding groove cut.
- Hinges bought.
Not 100% shore the hinge will work out. Has any one used any thing like them before?
After work I went back to the wood carver with more accurate measurements and a print of the dragon from Gauntlet. The new price is now 70,000 TZS ($43 USD). At that price I'm going to have it done. Even if I don't use it on the CP it will still look cool on my wall.
Because of all the buss at work (I'm a teacher) a very talented student asked if he could paint or air brush the CP. I may ask him to do some sketches before I decide.
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I really think the top two buttons need to be a different color than the rest. I'm picky though.
I'd hide the shift key on the underside of the CP if it's only going to be used for administrative stuff, otherwise kids will mess things up.
You would not believe the things they can accomplish by randomly mashing buttons.
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I really think the top two buttons need to be a different color than the rest. I'm picky though.
I'd hide the shift key on the underside of the CP if it's only going to be used for administrative stuff, otherwise kids will mess things up.
You would not believe the things they can accomplish by randomly mashing buttons.
When I was doing the buying there was a different lay out in mind. I was thinking the same about the button colors. I'm hoping it'll look better with the LEDs lit. If not I have three more of the white LED buttons I was going to used for another project, other wise it will have to do until the next time I'm in the states.
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Looks good. I have those hinges on my 2 player cabinet, they work fairly well. I don't know how well they would support a panel of that size...you may need to install a chain to hold the weight in an open position.
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Looks good. I have those hinges on my 2 player cabinet, they work fairly well. I don't know how well they would support a panel of that size...you may need to install a chain to hold the weight in an open position.
I was thinking of getting two more (They are only about $2.80 USD) and welding them to two long strips of sheet metal, one for the CP and one for the CP Box. That way I could also add lots of screws along the whole length.
I was just looking at your 4 player project, I like. Your kids are going to love it.
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I now have permission to share the good news.
I'm going to be a first time Dad!!!
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I now have permission to share the good news.
I'm going to be a first time Dad!!!
Congratz!
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Hurry up and finish while you still have free time!!!!!!
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I'm going to be a first time Dad!!!
As a Father of two boys, 12 and 6, congratulations!
Hurry up and finish while you still have free time!!!!!!
This. So much this.
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congratulations! when is she due? Like everyone else said, finish it now while you have time. My wife is scheduled to be induced with our 4th next wednesday, there is no way i'm going to finish mine in time.
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congratulations. having kid(z) is the greatest thing. finish your cab, then finish your nursery. not necessarily in that order.
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Thanks guys,
I am definitely going as fast as I can.
congratulations! when is she due? Like everyone else said, finish it now while you have time. My wife is scheduled to be induced with our 4th next wednesday, there is no way i'm going to finish mine in time.
Congratulations to you as well. 3 kids and a pregnant wife. How did you find the time to even start your build? Good luck next Wednesday. :applaud:
Ours is do at the end of March.
The wife wants some small changes to the design.
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congratulations. having kid(z) is the greatest thing. finish your cab, then finish your nursery. not necessarily in that order.
Thanks,
We are expats and will probably move on to our next post shortly after the baby arrives, so no fancy nursery till then.
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With a 7 month old daughter I can second that all arcade build progress is significantly slower nowadays :)
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Congratulations to you as well. 3 kids and a pregnant wife. How did you find the time to even start your build? Good luck next Wednesday. :applaud:
thanks. it is difficult to find time. my boys are 4 and 6, so they are old enough to help sometimes. my daughter is almost 2, so she is the one that makes it difficult. On weekends, i can work on it in the afternoons, while she is napping. now that the cutting is done, i mostly work on it after they go to bed...it makes for late nights.
i'm going to have to show that crib/arcade hybrid to my wife
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Got the routing for the joysticks out of the way today. Was going to build a jig, then decided just to free hand it.
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I'm thinking of using this red covered flip switch as a dedicated shift key. I would probably mont on the side of the CP between P1 & P2. What do you think?
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I'm thinking of using this red covered flip switch as a dedicated shift key. I would probably mont on the side of the CP between P1 & P2. What do you think?
As long as you're planning on having it labeled "SELF DESTRUCT", then you have my approval.
:D
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Your free handing is better than the jigs I use. :lol
My opinion on the colorful toggle switch mounted on the front of the cab is that children will not be able to resist messing with it.
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Your free handing is better than the jigs I use. :lol
My opinion on the colorful toggle switch mounted on the front of the cab is that children will not be able to resist messing with it.
Thanks, I was pleasantly surprised how well it came out. I turned the CP right side up, the base of the joy stick stayed in place with out screws in all four places.
How about on the CP torts the back?
P.S. Your Neo Geo cab is sick.
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My opinion on the colorful toggle switch mounted on the front of the cab is that children will not be able to resist messing with it.
How about on the CP torts the back?
P.S. Your Neo Geo cab is sick.
Thanks.
I would put it on the back facing the monitor or put a black button on the underside of the CP.....and never let children see you touch it.
Others have actually used switches that require a key.
It's your cab though. Do what you want. You can always disconnect the wires and go a different route if it becomes an issue.
On my current setups, you press the exit button while in the front end and then press start to confirm shutting the PC down.
My friends daughter who isn't well behaved pounded random buttons as hard as she could with the bottom of her fists until it was turned off, then went to the driving cab and did the same thing. I restarted them only to have her immediately do it again. Her father's response was that her attraction to hitting buttons was too strong for him to do anything about. ::)
My old stuff isn't nice enough to worry about it being damaged. The new builds are.
I haven't decided what I'm going to do to protect them. I might stop having large groups of people over altogether. :-\
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I'm thinking of using this red covered flip switch as a dedicated shift key. I would probably mont on the side of the CP between P1 & P2. What do you think?
As long as you're planning on having it labeled "SELF DESTRUCT", then you have my approval.
:D
I honestly considered it.
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Hinges installed. It seems fine with just the two, but i'm going to add two more just in case.
I was struggling to think of a better base to the CP. What do you all think of an oil drum?
I can get a free one in much better shape. Fits the beat'em up theme well I'd say. Can remember using them as weapons in at least one game. Was it double dragon?
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Looking good. I'm a little unsure of the oil drum...I guess it depends on where this cabinet will be when it is finished. It looks cool, definitely unique, and in a garage or similar location, it is very cool. I'm not sure how it would look sitting in a living room.
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Looking good. I'm a little unsure of the oil drum...I guess it depends on where this cabinet will be when it is finished. It looks cool, definitely unique, and in a garage or similar location, it is very cool. I'm not sure how it would look sitting in a living room.
It will be in my home office for now, we move a lot do to my wife's job.
The one I'd be using would be in much better shape, this one is going to be used to degrees metal engine parts in the DT Lab.
The things going for it are I'll be getting it for free , its extremely stable for such a small foot print, and I can just leave it behind when I move to our next post and start over on the base if I decide I don't love it.
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I like the barrel. It's different and goes with the theme.
The only thing I'd worry about is it tipping over if a kid is swinging from the P3 or P4 joystick.
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That's cool.as long as it is stable. I guess you could always put a few cinder blocks in the bottom if it needs more stability. I'm curious to see how this turns out.
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Im old skool, Id paint it like a Donkey Kong Barrel :laugh:
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Im old skool, Id paint it like a Donkey Kong Barrel :laugh:
If Mario would have just kicked the damn barrel, he would have had some turkey to eat.
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Double dragon not old school enough?
I can't think of a better base for a beat'em up themed pedestal then an actual weapon from one of the most iconic games of the genre.
Hmmm, maybe a golden axe base. Just kidding. ;)
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Cross posting this post to the main page.
I was thinking about using cat 5 cables to wire up my 4 player pedestal CP. Colors would be matched to the color of each player.
I was thinking it would be a nice and easy way to keep the wires clean.
Is this a bad idea? Has any one tried using cat5 to an i-pac before?
I originally got the idea from (http://www.beersmith.com/mame/panels.htm (http://www.beersmith.com/mame/panels.htm))
The pic is from the above web site and is not mine. I just included it for some context.
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Yup. Been done by the guys with swappable panels.
It used to be common to see old cat 5 cable cut up and used on a control panels because the builders were IT guys who had a ton of it laying around.
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We used cat 5 on my boss's cabinet, it works perfectly fine. Also, if you need to untwist a pair (perhaps for a ground wire), cut it to length, put the end in a drill and pull the two wires apart while running the drill.
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The 30 AWG wire commonly used in Cat 5 can be difficult to crimp solidly.
You may want to also solder the wires to the crimps or solder the wires directly to the microswitch tabs.
Scott
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Solder or do what I do: hit a euro terminal strip at each set of sticks/buttons to transfer from the 30ga to some 18 gauge or similar that's easier to interface with the lugs on the switches. you can see the terminal strips under the buttons in this pic.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_XCUpBBQCc8A/Ta-hgoppM8I/AAAAAAAAAbs/Wh_vrodldB4/s400/IMG_4772.JPG)
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Thanks guys,
I will look into getting some terminal strips here in Tanzania. I picked up a pack of 100 cable clips for less then a dollar that should work nicely with the cat 5.
Made some sketch ups with the new base. The double barrel may look cool but would not allow for leg room when seated. Another option might be to do a foot rail that matches the out line of the CP.
I'm still playing around with ideas so pleas let me know what you think.
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hit a euro terminal strip at each set of sticks/buttons to transfer from the 30ga to some 18 gauge or similar that's easier to interface with the lugs on the switches. you can see the terminal strips under the buttons in this pic.
Hey TopJimmyCooks, do you have a larger pic of this? Your wiring looks amazing, and it's totally something that all builders should look to for inspiration.
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Progress has been slow as of late do to all my free time going to "fixing" (learn ing how to use) the DT labs CNC etcher, a Roland EGX 350. It seems after the last DT teacher left, no one knew how to use it. Now that I got it working I am hoping to find a use in a future build. Maybe a bar top made with edge lit perspex sides.
Heres my first test print.
First test run on Roland EGX 350 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tSJ8yxWP72c#)
Been working on my vectoring skills to better use the etcher, it's coming along but I have a ways to go. If any one has any vectored art, knows a good place to find some, or has a good place to learn how to do vector art pleas feel free to share.
Back to the build at hand. Is a spray can primer on my MDF a bad idea? I need to do some more looking, for now the rattle can is what I could find at my local hardware store. Keep in mind I live in Tanzania.
My other question is should I use threaded inserts for the installation for the joy sticks?
I have a week off next week so I'm hoping to get every thing planned and together this week so I can get the primer and wiring done with my up coming free time.
When school gets back I should have my barrel. I'm not shore I'll going to go this root, but I was given some mettle tubing for the bar stile foot rest. My friend the DT teacher can help me to weld. If I decide to go this root, I'm thinking of having the welding done by professionals. I don't want it all to fall apart in the end.
Here is a sample of my newb vectoring skills. I went with Manga are because it was in black and white. This pic was just for practice and will not find its way in to this build.
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Laminating two 4' by 2' MDF sheets to get a 3/4'' with.
Out of curiosity, why would you not have simply gotten yourself some 3/4" MDF?
:dunno
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Laminating two 4' by 2' MDF sheets to get a 3/4'' with.
Out of curiosity, why would you not have simply gotten yourself some 3/4" MDF?
:dunno
It was free.
It worked out well. I'm happy with it.
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My barrel arrived to day. ;D
I am going to used wood sealer on the MDF. I was told this should make it so I can use less spray can primer. Hoping to have the first and second cote of priming done by Friday after noon.
Next week I'm off work, so I'll bring the CP hone for wiring.
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looks good, i love the color of the barrel
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I just need to chime in hear and say I think the barrel is a really cool idea.
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looks good, i love the color of the barrel
Thanks, I like it too. I am hoping the red T-molding looks good with it, maybe I should have gotten blue. I had this idea of painting Captain America's shield on the barrel, he was in a Beat'em up. But I like it to much as is to take the chance.
I just need to chime in hear and say I think the barrel is a really cool idea.
Thanks, and welcome to BYOAC.
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I used a wood sealer called sanding sealer to prevent the MDF from absorbing all the spray primer. Two coats of sealer later and I think it looks pretty good. After each coat I sanded with 150 then 600 paper. It almost has the feel of a polished stone countertop to it.
It looks better in real life then in the pics.
Tomorrow my wife and I have a sonogram appointment. Hopefully I will get to start priming after.
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Progress ;D
Two coats primer done.
Started to cut the cat-5's to length and have found a cheep easy way to crimp the skinny 30ga wires to quick connects. I'll post my solution with picks when I finnish them up.
Does any one know if its ok to use latex baste paint over oil baste paint? I just learned that the local artist that I want to use to paint my CP, uses latex baste. I wish I thought to ask before I primed with oil primer, could've just had him prime for the same price and saved money on the brush and can of primer.
Keep in mind I live in west Africa. Asking the artist who work in shacks next to the grocery store to use different paint would mean I would have to provide it, and just hope they can do a good job in the new medium.
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Oops!
Double posted.
Is there a way to delete a post?
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Progress ;D
Two coats primer done.
Started to cut the cat-5's to length and have found a cheep easy way to crimp the skinny 30ga wires to quick connects. I'll post my solution with picks when I finnish them up.
Does any one know if its ok to use latex baste paint over oil baste paint? I just learned that the local artist that I want to use to paint my CP, uses latex baste. I wish I thought to ask before I primed with oil primer, could've just had him prime for the same price and saved money on the brush and can of primer.
Keep in mind I live in west Africa. Asking the artist who work in shacks next to the grocery store to use different paint would mean I would have to provide it, and just hope they can do a good job in the new medium.
If you used oil primer you would need to use oil base paint! If you painted latex over oil base it will just peel. It will not give a good bond!
Although oil base paint is harder to clean up and such but it gives a nice finish. It is just hard to clean and it smells more. But that is my opinion.
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I picked up the hand carved Gauntlet dragon head today. It looks Great!
Should I use it on the CP or on the wall?
The rest of the CP will be painted in a stile similar to the pic in the first post, which is based largely off of the gauntlet CP. I am going to drop the golden axe/swords and replace them with more flames.
Pleas let me know what you all think.
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Congrats on your build, & becoming a dad!
U got negative feedback here?!? I'm genuinely surprised! In the end, it's your cab, & u r the best judge of it. Don't let anyone, here or elsewhere, discourage u! By 'Beat 'em Up' games, if u mean Street Fighter, Killer Instinct, Mortal Combat, etc., I've never been a big fan of those. But who the heck cares what my opinion is?--I like the look of what you're building, go man, go! :cheers:
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Congrats on your build, & becoming a dad!
U got negative feedback here?!? I'm genuinely surprised! In the end, it's your cab, & u r the best judge of it. Don't let anyone, here or elsewhere, discourage u! By 'Beat 'em Up' games, if u mean Street Fighter, Killer Instinct, Mortal Combat, etc., I've never been a big fan of those. But who the heck cares what my opinion is?--I like the look of what you're building, go man, go! :cheers:
Thanks,
Beat 'em Up's are the left to right side scrollers where you have to fight your way through, often with up to 3 friends at your side. The games you listed are called Fighters. They evolved from Beat 'em Up's but lack that cooperative element that made the Beat 'em Up's so fun. Think of TMNT, The Simpsons, or Double Dragon.
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I always called em "fight and go right."
That wood carving is amazing. This entire project is a unique take on cabinet design, and I like it a lot.
:cheers:
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I'm trying a poll for the first time.
Pleas take a second to respond at the top of the page.
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I always called em "fight and go right."
That would make an awesome cabinet name. :lol
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I always called em "fight and go right."
That would make an awesome cabinet name. :lol
Yes it would. Hummm. Do I like that better then Beat'em up-X.
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Feel free to use it. I'm sure I read it circa 1991 when the term was coined to distinguish games like TMNT from Street Fighter 2 and "fighter" wasn't cutting it anymore.
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Here is a pic that better shows what I am thinking with the CP art.
The colors and flames would be more or less the same if I use the carved head or not. The black back ground will be a space theme like in my original concept art.
Note: The CP will be hand painted by a talented student from the school I work at. This art is to convey my idea's to him.
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Today I attached the CP to the barrel. I also finally learned how to post pics in the body of the post.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=300030;image)
First I drilled out some guide holes with the CP on the barrel.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=300032;image)
Then I widened the hole in the spacer that sits between the barrel and CP to accommodate the heads of the washers.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=300034;image)
Then I angled ground the drill marks.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=300036;image)
Then I placed the bolts on the bare metal.
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I don't know why some of the pics are upside down.
I'll figure it out later. Does someone know how to flip the photos? I tried flipping the jpg and re-posting.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=300039;image)
My friend big Pat (the DT teacher) welded them in place.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=300040;image)
Next I dropped the CP back on the barrel.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=300042;image)
Then cut the bolts down so I could close the top.
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looking good. i like the dragon carving...very cool...and i have to admin, initially i was not a fan of the barrel, but it is really growing on me..i like it.
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Thanks severdhed,
When Pat recommended an oil drum, I didn't like the idea. But once he put my CP on top of one, I just wanted to throw it at some 1980's street thugs. It just fit the theme perfectly.
How did your Mame update work out? I would imagine your boys are loving it.
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The update went well. A few of the games we wanted to play but couldn't, now run just fine with the newer 64 bit mame. The kids haven't been playing that cabinet very much though because I still have a few software issues to work through and I just haven't had time to do it.I'm hoping to have them sorted out before family visits for the holidays. Then I'm going to probably upgrade the pc in my other cabinet once this one is done. My kid's karate instructor came over the other day for me to fix his laptop, and we proceeded to play some 4 player tmnt and it was awesome.
Sent from my Galaxy S4 using Tapatalk 2
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Its been awhile. Didn't want to make lots of small posts about sanding between lairs of primer, but finally some progress worth writing about.
There were 3 big delays. I could have cut corners to rush the project, but I'd rather take my time and be proud of my work.
First: I used an oil based primer :-\ . living in the tropics it took over two months for drying time for 3 lairs of priming and sanding.
Second: Living in Tanzania printed art was not really an option. I asked a talented student if he would like to paint. It ended up taking three months for the spray paint he ordered to arrive :banghead:
Third: Last week my wonderful, loving, beautiful wife made me into a father :burgerking:
We are in Kenya for the birth of the baby. Final painting has started back home and below is a sneak peak of the CP and of corse my baby boy.
Note: The angles between the B/G and R/Y are going to be sanded and changed. There will also be Gauntlet CP inspired flames as borders between colors.
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Congrats, Locke! Fatherhood is amazing! (Have you considered naming your new one "Dhalsim"? That's quite the reach on the little one!)
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Congrats, Locke! Fatherhood is amazing! (Have you considered naming your new one "Dhalsim"? That's quite the reach on the little one!)
Thanks Rick. His name is Haikili after the Hawaiian god of thunder. The wife is Hawaiian.
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Nice work on the baby! :cheers:
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After a very long delay with painting (still not done with the paint job) I have finally gotten the cab home.
Lots still to do, but the end is now in sight.
Progress made:
I decided to use bolts & inserts for all 4 joysticks. The inserts I found were to long for my CP so I installed them in some scrap ply wood and used a belt sander to half there length.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311133;image]http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311133;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311135;image]http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311135;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311132;image]http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311132;image)
It worked out well. Except for when I drilled one pilot hole to far :banghead:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=139774.0;attach=311019;image)
:dunno I needed to repaint anyway.
Here is the bottom of my CP with all joysticks bolted in.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311137;image]http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311137;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311139;image]http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311139;image)
and here is what she is looking like now.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311125;image]http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311125;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311127;image]http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311127;image)
Can some one tell me how to rotate this image pleas?
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311129;image]http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311129;image)
Still to do.
- Repaint the CP, again, and have the flame borders added.
- Finish wiring it all up.
- Install the t-molding
- Add plexi to protect the CP. The only place I could find local only has 4mm thick sheets in stock. I am going to hold off and see if 3mm comes back in stock soon. They think next month, if not I'll just use the 4MM
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It's all starting to come together.
Lighting is done.
The vast majority of the wiring is now complete. I ran out of the black wire I was using for my grounding daisy chain so P3&4 have still need to be grounded. I also need to grab a green cat-5 cable for the p3 joy stick.
Here is some pick of my progress.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311637)
Cat-5 with quick connects.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311639)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311641)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311643;image)
wiring diagram.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311645;image)
Inside the CP.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311647)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311649)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311651)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311667)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311653)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311655;image)
LED strip installed.
Arcade lit for first time. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ojJSwcQzlGg#)
Other then repainting, plexi (on order), and t-molding (will do after painting) I hope to be done this weekend.
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Behold the power of this fully operational pedestal.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=134515.0;attach=312202;image)
How can I flip this? Thanks Malenko
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=312190;image)
An over view.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=312192;image)
P2
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=312194;image)
8 color coded cat-5 cables connecter to the I-pac 4. (one of the green cables looks blue in the photo)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=312196;image)
covered shift key and LED on/off switch.
I just need to disassemble to re-paint, install the molding and cut the plexi.
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rotated
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rotated
Thanks Malenko
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Looks cool.
I feel like the dust washers around your joysticks would be better translucent.
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Looks cool.
I feel like the dust washers around your joysticks would be better translucent.
That may be a good idea. I'll be back in the US next week so now is the time to buy stuff.
I am repainting after I get all the kinks out. There will be flames and a compass rose both in the stile of Gantlet.
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I just jumped into this thread and I have to say I love your build so far, great work. The Gauntlet themed art, the barrel, the carving on the cp...awesome work so far.
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I just jumped into this thread and I have to say I love your build so far, great work. The Gauntlet themed art, the barrel, the carving on the cp...awesome work so far.
Thanks,
It has been a long build. Am hoping to finish with in the one year mark of starting.
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I'm not going to post any more completions date goals :banghead:
Any way,
I am so close to being finished I can taste it.
The whole painting process was a complete nightmare. I had a local artist (none English speaker add some detail to my CP. It came out OK not 100% what I wanted but after 3 weeks, 4 attempts, and three OMG what did this guy do. I am calling it done. I made what exactly what I wanted in photo shop to show him. After the first two attempts I had a Kiswahili speaker help me explain what was not right. I am happy with it.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=319449)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=319451)
I also made the inverts for my buttons and put them in my test rig.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,142007.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,142007.0.html)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=142007.0;attach=319428)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=142007.0;attach=319441)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=142007.0;attach=319443)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=142007.0;attach=319445)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=142007.0;attach=319428)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=142007.0;attach=319430)
The lit pics are hard to see. They look much better in real life.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=142007.0;attach=319432)
Still looks much better in real life.
I will be leaving this Sunday so won't have much time to work on it till I get back.
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It's almost 2am, my time. Just had to add the t-molding before bed.
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Done!!!
It was a lot of work and I had to take a long brake for the build for the whole becoming a dad thing. But it is finally finished.
A huge thanks to all the wonderful people that make up the BYOAC community. If not for all your help I would have built a steaming pile of metal muffin.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=320277)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=320279)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=320281)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=320283)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=320285)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=320287)
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Lookin' good ! The barrel and the dragon head are cool ideas.
Please post a pic in the "I completed my project! I posted a pic and a link to my project thread" http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=142020.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=142020.0) so that people will be able to find your build thread. And while we are at it, a pic of your Vioglix cab would not hurt too :)
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Looks Sweet! Digging the glowing gauntlet buttons :cheers:
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Lookin' good ! The barrel and the dragon head are cool ideas.
Please post a pic in the "I completed my project! I posted a pic and a link to my project thread" http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=142020.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=142020.0) so that people will be able to find your build thread. And while we are at it, a pic of your Vioglix cab would not hurt too :)
Done and Done.
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:cheers:
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I like the gas strut top supports. did you have to do calculations to size and lay them out or just trial and error/experience?
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I like the gas strut top supports. did you have to do calculations to size and lay them out or just trial and error/experience?
The manufacturer gave details on how to space them, but that was for a much lighter load. They are currently at my first best guess and work really well at keeping the CP from coming down to fast until around 30°, then it falls like a rock. They also keep the CP up till about 45°. Currently I have the CP opening to 90° and when the CP is shut there is about an inched left on the strut before fully compressed.
The build is done but I think there will be future refinements. I may readjust the strut so the are closer to fully compressed at closed, making the full open position closer to 80°, and/or by adding two more struts (the cp is really heavy).
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Nice work :applaud:
This came out really well, I like the way the top plexi is edge lit by the buttons.
Do you have any plans to paint the carved head?
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This came out really well.
Do you have any plans to paint the carved head?
:bat
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Thanks guys,
Thanks PBJ, When I first flipped it on the edge lit effect was a bit of a nice surprise. The funny thing is I was trying to think of ways to work some edge lighting in from the start and then it happened in such a cool way with out any planning.
Thanks AzureKnight, I don't think I will have the dragon head painted. I commissioned a local artisan to hand carve it out of hard wood. I'm not ashamed to say it is the best part of the cab.
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Did you sand down the edge of that plexi? Most of the time, it's really sharp when you leave it exposed like that.
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Did you sand down the edge of that plexi? Most of the time, it's really sharp when you leave it exposed like that.
Yep. I did my best to chamfered the edge. It's not sharp at all now.
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Did you sand down the edge of that plexi? Most of the time, it's really sharp when you leave it exposed like that.
Yep. I did my best to chamfered the edge. It's not sharp at all now.
:cheers:
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.
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Thanks AzureKnight, I don't think I will have the dragon head painted. I commissioned a local artisan to hand carve it out of hard wood. I'm not ashamed to say it is the best part of the cab.
I'm actually glad to hear that, when it comes to wood trim / cabinets in a house / etc I HATE painted trim wood.