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Started by Harlock - Last post by Harlock

That's a Panasonic tube so we can't be sure the value of C97 is correct for it. If you have a capacitance tester measure it and see if it has decreased a lot. Alternatively, get a few caps of increasing value and try them until the sides are as wide as the middle (a vertical bar test pattern is more helpful than in-game pictures). Try: 0.18, 0.27, 0.36, 0.47 (depending on where you buy them, the value could be in nanofarad so 180, 270, etc.). It's important that the voltage rating is the same (400V) and also the lead spacing (22.5 mm).

Hey, I think It worked, although previous capacitor was fine, I bought some mkt capacitors (Actually it needed mkp, but I made a mistake and bought mkt ones although mkt worked for testing), I soldered some posts in order to try different ones, 0,366nF and some width twiking seems to do the trick.
It still has some slite weird quirks, like for example 2-3 brigther lines at the far left but they are hardly noticeable, the result is soooo much better than before and I really thank you that you helped, you are a true wizard in this area.
The only alarming thing I noticed through testing is that with larger C97 capacitor, the capacitor is getting hotter (yes it is rated for 400v) with using pandora box vga output, but it gets like A LOT hotter when I use a vga output from a laptop or a GBS-8200 (cga to vga converter). Although if I solder it on the proper side of the chassis it is almost under tha fan so it will help.

Also I think I created a tiny bending on the sides when I was testing linearity coil setting that can't get rid of with cushion pot, I will fix it probably with some more tweeking.
But overall it I am much happier with the result than before, I can't even grasp how you knew about the specific capacitor.  :applaud:

92   GroovyMAME / Asus AH3450on May 20, 2022, 02:07:54 am

Started by beaches - Last post by beaches

Hi everyone, does anybody know if this graphic board can get the 15 kHz to install calamity drivers?
Thanks a lot

93   Main Forum / Re: is glue necessaryon May 19, 2022, 11:17:34 pm

Started by AlienInferno - Last post by vertexguy

Several builds on here have used threaded inserts.  Mines not finished but I have a fair amount of lessons learned documented with photos on them in my build thread. 

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,161694.0.html


Also check out bperkins lakeside arcade build for a completed example.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,156272.0.html

94   Main Forum / is glue necessaryon May 19, 2022, 09:45:26 pm

Started by AlienInferno - Last post by AlienInferno

I need to rebuild my OG mame machine to fit through a smaller than normal width door in my house for what is my game room.  Normally I prefer to glue all my joints on my cabs.  With either screws, nails, clamps, etc.  I was thinking I could make it so I can piece it together in place sans glue.  This will allow me the full size cab I want/need for the monitor I'm using.  I'm thinking about glueing blocks onto the side pieces and just screw the middle pieces (speaker panel, coin panel, etc) to the side pieces to complete the build.  My only worry is stability and whether it will fall apart after a while.

I know that companies sell kits that go together like ikea furniture not to mention that ikea has been putting furniture together this way for years but I'm wondering if anyone has done this themselves.  Maybe with some links or helpful tips.

95   Lightguns / Re: Rambo start button not workingon May 19, 2022, 08:58:39 pm

Started by bubba1212 - Last post by MotownC

No, I am not.

Started by vr_junkie - Last post by jbserra

Has anyone here successfully removed that cartridge in the Midway machine? Doesn't seem to remove from the front of cabinet, so I removed the 4 screws holding it in from the rear of the cab (as shown in the reply above mine). Pulls out perhaps a 1/8 inch, can't get it to budge any further. If I pull any harder I feel I might break it right through the backboard. The front of the cartridge is preventing me from pulling it out from the back due to two "latches" holding it in from the front. Seems like it should just pull out from the front (to insert another cartridge, implied by the "series 1" marking on the cart), obviously no other cartridges were made though. Should I just keep pulling from the front or rear until it comes loose? Could it be inserted that tightly? I wonder if it's actually glued in due to Big Games knowing there would be a further cartridges.
I was encountering  that issue that other owners have had in this topic of having to turn the cabinet on/off a couple times until it successfully booted (you would just hear a buzzing and a non-image on the screen). Was going to replace the C2 as discussed earlier in this thread. But about a year or so ago I just wiggled the cartridge, from the front of the machine, and have had no issues the entire year until yesterday. I figured the cartridge slots might need cleaning, the reason I'd like to pull it out.

The cartridge does NOT pull out.  It is not removable or replaceable without taking it out and taking it apart.  You have to detach it from the back and then it's in an outer shell that has to be unscrewed.  Inside the case it's the "cartridge" with RCAs for AV, a flat ribbon connection to the control panel, and power.  I also feel like there was a clip that held it in place too, but I have mine out because I replaced the bezel.  Hopefully some pictures will help.

The only "cartridge slot" is the ribbon cable/connector for the control panel.  Not sure that would affect boot up.

Started by Substring - Last post by donluca

Probably it won't even boot on 128MB of RAM.

EDIT: I've been favoring Alpine Linux over Arch lately. I've found it nicer for "one purpose" situations like MAME emulation.
It also has a compatibility layer for glibc.

Started by argonlefou - Last post by scratcher53

Hi All,
New to lightguns and demulshooter having problems in sega model 2 setting up two guns.
I have built two Samco guns but can not get them to work in sega model 2 together. Installed and set them up in Demulshooter all is fine. When in game each gun controls the same curser. The blue one stays in the corner. Each gun works fine in single player. I have checked the ids for each gun and they are assinged correctly in demulshooter.
I have followed the instructions on the wiki page but still the same. Any ideas?
Thanks

99   Lightguns / Re: SAMCO DIY Arduino Powered IR Light Gunon May 19, 2022, 05:02:39 pm

Started by samco - Last post by scratcher53

Hi All,
New to light guns but have a few questions.
i have built two Samco guncon2 guns and using the 4 ir sketch, may use prow enhanced sketch, is there a way to re asign some keys. EG move the calibration key to the down key on the d pad and asign ESC to the up key. Also move the reload key from the left side to the bottom (currently the calibration key) ?
Thanks,

100   Lightguns / Re: Gun talk - Sega Type-II IR Gun setupon May 19, 2022, 04:08:51 pm

Started by twistedsymphony - Last post by tangodownNZ

I am also setting up a sega light gun to my pc.
I need some help please.
I have a Gun I/O Board for Ghost Squad Sega 838-14465R03, a UHID, a ghost squad gun, Sega LED BD GUN SENSE HOD 838-13145R02 x 10, all out of the lindbergh ghost squad arcade cabinet.
I need some help with how to connect the uhid to the gun sense board and then on to my pc via usb. Can somebody please explain the pin out to the uhid. I have attached a drawing of the board but I don’t know what f.out and “ret” is for ect
I know there is an x and y axis, and the trigger, which I can see. But the gun has fire select switch and an action button, but I can not see these and don’t know how to wire them to the uhid.
Also any information that might help me would be great. Thank you
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