The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: ChanceKJ on January 05, 2014, 08:18:15 pm
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Cool idea. That Namco plug-n-play is actually surprisingly fun.
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Some related theme music (http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0095348/quotes?item=qt0159282) for your build.
Pac-Man Fever (Original) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XY_ESTnBlS0#)
Scott
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Watching intently. Neat project.
Subscribed!
AJ
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*Shudder*
Eeewwww, i forgot about that song. So bad. So very very Bad.
Thanks Scott, I think this is the first time you've been unhelpful to me in one of my threads. ;) Nobody bats a thousand i guess.
I love that song. ;D
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Agreed, Its just sad that its been sitting here collecting dust.
...Has no one else thought of doing this with a Plug & Play?? :dunno
I remember someone posting one made from a Ms. Pac-Man plug and play at some point in time.
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(http://static3.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20100531002719/shodan/images/thumb/4/4d/Shodan-a.gif/320px-Shodan-a.gif)
Mmmmm..... System Shock 2...
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Ok, gonna base this thing off modified Weecade (http://www.koenigs.dk/mame/eng/stepweecade.htm) plans.
Thinking an elongated back with an integrated plexi covered shadowbox like compartment showcasing the old Plug & Play enclosure surrounded by a "Showdan" style Pac-Man "electronic virus takeover" design.
(http://static3.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20100531002719/shodan/images/thumb/4/4d/Shodan-a.gif/320px-Shodan-a.gif)
Again, more spitballing.
Also, found this:
http://videogamecritic.com/vgc_genclassic.htm (http://videogamecritic.com/vgc_genclassic.htm)
(http://videogamecritic.com/images/systems2/gen_classic.jpg)
I'm not really a SEGA fan, But if someone was to be so inclined i'm sure it would also made for a bad ass Weecade/Bartop build. And i'm sure those wireless controllers wouldn't be hard to modify for wired power. The fact that it accepts Genesis carts could be integrated into the exterior of the design along the base of the control panel or something. Looks like they go for like $50 on ebay/Amazon etc.
Not my cup of tea. But would be a bad ass build for anyone out there wanting to tackle it. I'd even help with the design of the cab artwork if someone wants to build it...
I thought of this same idea early on. I was going to use an lcd from one of those old dvd players, gut it all and put it in a midway/namco style mini bartop. I know someone designed a really nice midway/namco inspired bartop on the forums a few years back. Perfect for this style of mini project.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=72554.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=72554.0)
Also, i have one of those genesis units. I also have the ultra rare sd card cartridge along with it. ;D
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What's the video output on that thing? Composite?
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Those things are awesome!
...you should do a small tear down of your Sega system and take some pictures of it to see if it's viable to do a mini cab with. ;D ;D
Of course you can use it in a cab. or a mini cab for that matter.
you can click on the image for a larger version.
(http://i.imgur.com/eEDtulml.jpg) (http://imgur.com/eEDtulm)
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I made a bartop a couple of years ago for Christmas based off a plug and play, it was a pretty big hit. I've actually got 4x of that newer model (emulation is great, menus are nice, very good for a cab), 4x 13" Tvs, 4x controls (going to use LS-56s with octo gates) stashed away to make more at some point but the project keeps getting pushed back in the queue.
Save for the unfortunate omission of Ms. Pac Man, these Pac Man Connect & Play units + old composite-in TV is a great way to get a solid Namco classics cab together on a budget.
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Nice to see they're still refusing to make a Genesis with RCA stereo output. I rocked that stupid headphone jack adapter for YEARS.
:angry:
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Dammit, I had a Sega one of these laying around for years and now I can't find it. :censored:
I also happen to have an unfinished bartop sitting on the bench waiting for guts.
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/WeeCade/IMAG0557_zps63fa2309.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/mcseforsale/media/WeeCade/IMAG0557_zps63fa2309.jpg.html)
This may be the perfect solution. That thing's been staring at me for months.
AJ
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This may be the perfect solution. That thing's been staring at me for months.
AJ
Let me ask you this- what's the holdup on it not getting done?
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Agreed, Its just sad that its been sitting here collecting dust.
...Has no one else thought of doing this with a Plug & Play?? :dunno
Check out posts 276 and 280 of this KLOV thread (http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?p=2609963&highlight=plug+play#post2609963). You can just see the corner of the plug and play on the "Frogger" cab.
(http://forums.arcade-museum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=160152&stc=1&d=1383950826) (http://listia.s3.amazonaws.com/photos/5ecebe1abd9d907f3024/medium.jpg?1358958601)
Scott
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Couple things:
1.) I've been lazy
2.) money
3.) when I have the money, I don't seem to be able to find a 19 in 1 horizontal board kit for it.
AJ
This may be the perfect solution. That thing's been staring at me for months.
AJ
Let me ask you this- what's the holdup on it not getting done?
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...what's the pool up to for figuring out what Scott does all day? ;D
I'm telling you, he's a shifty AI bot or he works in a callcenter with access to the Internet all day for work.
$5 cash in hand.
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Maybe he's a teacher
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/01_saving_private_ryan_zpsbd47fdd2.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/mcseforsale/media/01_saving_private_ryan_zpsbd47fdd2.jpg.html)
AJ
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If you guys are waiting for a call-back after applying at the FBI's Behavioral Analysis Unit, you may want to work on "Plan B." :laugh2:
Scott
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Here is another one. There are a few more out there on the interwebz. I don't personally have a problem with this stuff. What i do take a little issue with is the total lack of mini cabs that look grossly unfinished.
Pac-Man Mini Arcade for sale on Ebay (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YrFuvA5eE8I#)
Another with a slightly better build quality
Jakks Pacman Arcade Cab 10 games (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HCdhnMgW1-w#)
arguably the best. Mortal Kombat
Tiny Mortal Kombat Arcade Auction (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z8g3f9-06no#ws)
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Maybe he's a teacher
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/01_saving_private_ryan_zpsbd47fdd2.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/mcseforsale/media/01_saving_private_ryan_zpsbd47fdd2.jpg.html)
AJ
:laugh2:
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I made a bartop a couple of years ago for Christmas based off a plug and play, it was a pretty big hit. I've actually got 4x of that newer model (emulation is great, menus are nice, very good for a cab), 4x 13" Tvs, 4x controls (going to use LS-56s with octo gates) stashed away to make more at some point but the project keeps getting pushed back in the queue.
Save for the unfortunate omission of Ms. Pac Man, these Pac Man Connect & Play units + old composite-in TV is a great way to get a solid Namco classics cab together on a budget.
ah that's right, I remember you made one some time ago. Forgot all about that. One of the better, more polished looking cabs using them. All this talk of using one makes me want to crack mine open.
VID00604.MP4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DdmZO6s5-qE#ws)
Nice to see they're still refusing to make a Genesis with RCA stereo output. I rocked that stupid headphone jack adapter for YEARS.
:angry:
yeah, i had the same issue with my original genesis 1 unit. Sega sorted that out with the genesis 2.
Dammit, I had a Sega one of these laying around for years and now I can't find it. :censored:
I also happen to have an unfinished bartop sitting on the bench waiting for guts.
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/WeeCade/IMAG0557_zps63fa2309.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/mcseforsale/media/WeeCade/IMAG0557_zps63fa2309.jpg.html)
This may be the perfect solution. That thing's been staring at me for months.
AJ
You can always donate the bar top to the cab-less SaveThe404 Charity Foundation. Your donation of just one bartop will bring gaming nourishment to a child's life. ;D
In all honesty, they don't emulate sound that great. They are pitched a few octaves too high. At times it gets down right annoying. I have one and while I appreciate it from a novelty and collectors point of view, it's not even remotely close to the genesis hardcore gamers remember.
If you are on a budget, you are better off spending that money on a second hand pc mobo/cpu and drive combo to finish up that great looking bartop.
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yeah, i had the same issue with my original genesis 1 unit. Sega sorted that out with the genesis 2.
Genesis 2 was for poor kids that liked watching copyright messages.
:dizzy:
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ClassX buttons rock!
AJ
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Whats wrong with the name Yellow Fever? I think its great. If you dont use it, I will.
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I really don't think anything is wrong with it. I think it's funny as hell. Mind you I'm also not the most sensitive person on the planet at times :D
You do realize I made my fiancee a weecade called "Bonnie's Pink Box" right? :cheers:
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I really don't think anything is wrong with it. I think it's funny as hell. Mind you I'm also not the most sensitive person on the planet at times :D
You're in Calgary, so it's probably not such a big deal. In Vancouver, (aka Hongcouver) that name probably wouldn't fly...
I too think it's funny as hell, but I also think real Yellow Fever is hilarious. There are many HAGAWG's here (Hot asian girl, average white guy)...actually, I think that name would actually be pretty funny here too. :D :lol
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I took it as the asian girl thing, prolly because I have a hot asian fiancee and Im just an average white guy :)
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Pics or it didn't happen. >:D
AJ
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Pics or it didn't happen. >:D
AJ
she can be seen in many of my project and restoration threads.
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I thought you two were married by now. How's Learning Mandarin going? That is a ---smurfette--- of a language. >:D
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Pics or it didn't happen. >:D
AJ
she can be seen in many of my project and restoration threads.
Im a lazy man, just give us the goods or we're gonna still call BS.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-f4bHglKf2Lk/Uv91laelHcI/AAAAAAAADiw/hVRIF7msAos/w409-h720/Still%2Bthe%2Bbest%2BChun%2Bli%2B%2523Cosplay%2B%2523JackieChan.jpg)
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I thought you two were married by now. How's Learning Mandarin going? That is a ---smurfette--- of a language. >:D
threadjack
No we get married Oct 26th of this year, unless she wises up or I kill her (or both?) My mandarin has actually gotten worse, Ive been focusing on updating all my M$ certs to 2012.
/threadjack
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Screw that. Go for RedHat. That stuff is killing here at least (metro Atlanta).
I taught MS for years and still have a valid MCSE, but I use it less and less. Linux is perplexing and fun all at the same time. It's a long way from when I was a sysadmin for HPUX on HP miniframes.
Plus, I have an entire CI environment built on freeware (Jenkins, GitLab, GitWeb, et. al) that REALLY pads the resume.
/threadjack
AJ
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Isn't bosconian and xevious 8 way?
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Screw that. Go for RedHat. That stuff is killing here at least (metro Atlanta).
My job uses nothing but M$, and I have a pretty cushy job. After the 2012 stuff I gonna nail down my Mandarin. I muck around with *nix but its just not useful in my day to day.
Well Galaga is a two way, not a 4 way, not that it matters.
I know Xevious is an 8 way (2 buttons)
and Im pretty sure Bosconian is an 8 way (1 button)
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Current Roadblocks: 2014.Jan.05
1. Time
2. The Plug & Play runs on 6 AA batteries. I need to figure out how to run it off the display's power, or integrate a small power supply, which i'll probably need anyways for the audio.
The following youtube video may help Chance. The best I could find for an actual wired dummy battery that was manufactured was a single A battery to an outlet plug. Also if you ever need to find out what games had what controls just go here (http://www.arcade-museum.com/) and type in the name of the game and that in turn will lead you to a link that gives you the basic information of the game including release date, button number, what joystick, etc etc.
http://youtu.be/r4f0Fi_fCyE (http://youtu.be/r4f0Fi_fCyE)
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Uh...I mean....
(http://cl.jroo.me/z3/c/o/i/d/a.aaa.jpg)
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Isn't bosconian and xevious 8 way?
Yep. FWIW, I plan on using LS-56s with octagonal gates when i do more of these plug and play cabs (I am slowly accumulating the stuff to do a run of 4).
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Correct me if i'm wrong (Scott, i'm looking your way here), but i could just take this 6VDC, 1.2A (http://www.mroelectronics.com/mro/product.php?id_product=912) adaptor, chop the end off, and wire it right to the leads that connect to the plug-n-play's battery compartment?
4 AA batteries @ 1.5v each, (6v) and the amps don't matter as long as the adaptor exceeds the draw of the device? correct?
That should work just fine, but why spend that much?.
i found some 5-ish volt ones laying around tonight. Cell chargers, etc. most were low mA tho.
If you want to try those 5v chargers, hook up your multimeter in series with the power supply to verify how much current the plug-and-play draws -- it should be fine.
Cylon-Scott
:P
I ran that thing for 9+ hours off of a 5v phone charger and it never seemed to act strange. Batteries aren't 100% accurate and they drop a little when they start to die.
Over most of the discharge curve, batteries have a 1.4-1.2 volt charge so engineers will usually design the circuit to work with 5v or less.
Scott
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Cylon-Scott
:P
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7454/12856407853_dae702a0ae.jpg)
;D
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Picard haz a smartfone. :laugh2:
(http://i.stack.imgur.com/Mb1Qn.jpg)
Scott
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i have one of the first models of these little pac man units and i must say, they really stepped up the looks of the menu system on these bandai units. :applaud:
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Hmm may have to track one of these down -- Would be interesting to see if you could combine this with one of the 7 or 9 inch portable DVD players that also runs on rechargeable batteries and hook it up so all the batteries charge when plugged in -- figure that way the entire unit could be portable and just plugged it in to recharge. Figure the DVD player can run 5 hours or so on a charge so should last longer if just using the monitor and would have a completely portable unit that could be played for several hours without a cord.
I already have a couple of the DVD players so may just have to give this a try.
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Very cool, and thanks for all the pics. Nice to have a reference for whenever i start hacking these things up.
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I am loving the progress in here! And that TV looks great! I might have to swing down to my local CanTire and see if I can get my hands on one. The image on that thing looks great for composite.
Nice work getting the proper controls hooked up to that board too. :applaud:
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...looks like you can buy the main board separately too. I should have nabbed the serial number for that AUO panel.
http://www.tvpartsguy.com/servlet/the-13947/PROSCAN-PLED2435A-dsh-C-MAIN-BOARD/Detail (http://www.tvpartsguy.com/servlet/the-13947/PROSCAN-PLED2435A-dsh-C-MAIN-BOARD/Detail)
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Do you think it's possible I could rig it up so that my little PacMan plug n play gets it's power from the 15"RCA LCD I bought for it?
I double checked your photos of the TV and noticed this one.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7096/13181216694_c73869fe90_c.jpg)
That looks like a USB port on the upper right. ;D
You should be able to hack a USB cable or buy this (http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=78&products_id=299&zenid=t4v3k2k8vfa9seo0ovh4pb8gq4) USB cable from GGG.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=121192.0;attach=197343;image)
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Ok, i think i just answered a few of my questions with my multimeter. (I'm new at this, its a learning experience).
I tested the voltage from the USB on the TV and it outputs 5V (well, 5.13V to be exact). I tested the PnP at the batteries and it reads 6.18 directly from them. I have a feeling there are a couple resistors (?) in some heat shrink just past where the leads come from the batteries on the PnP. because after the switch at the board there is 5.98V.
Taking a hint on that USB idea i scrapped an old iPod cable and attached a Molex connector to the Grd and 5V leads of the USB.
Two questions:
1. Do you feel that i'm on the right track here and I'll be able to snip the PnP wires at the batteries and run them into this USB tap cable i made?
Assuming the plug-and-play doesn't draw too much current, it should work.
2. I'm worried about plugging it in backwards and frying the PnP with the USB. Based off the readings on my meter can i just plug the red wire on the USB tap to the red wire on the battery housing of the PnP (including what looks to be the resistor under the shrink)?
USB tap I made.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3788/13397021793_e8c9087777_z.jpg)
Power from the USB port on the TV.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7238/13397235243_611a3f5514_z.jpg)
Power from the batteries.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2836/13397250714_a03bce05b7_z.jpg)
the reading on the left of 6.18 is misleading, i took the reading from right at the base of the wires where they connect to the yellow box holding the batteries, as shown in the image above.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3790/13397240463_0f53b0c2ec_z.jpg)
Power tap cable looks good. ;D
Based on your pictures, red to red and black to black should work fine.
Scott
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FOr anyone looking for one of these it seems Kmart got a new supply of inventory of these and the Space invaders units -- $24.99 for the Pacman 12 game unit and $21.99 for the 10 game Space Invaders unit !
Made a trip to the local Kmart and they had about 10 of the pacman and 12 space invaders in the store so will probably be picking one up this week. Since I found an old AC plug that is 6V 200ma output that should work fine to replace the batteries and have an old 13" TV sitting in the closet that has the proper inputs so looks like a good start for building something (perhaps a Dig Dug based bartop) :applaud:
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Quick look at the warehouse shows these 2 available to download :
https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?redirect=1&mid=2d840b8c8292c0c29aeb4764d4ffd235
https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=acb47ff0ca6da3a59428db5a936c1abd
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Not a sketchup, but a printable PDF. Or, I'll just sell you one of the ones I built and don't want to finish. :D PM me your email and I'll get that PDF and the photoshop side panel (for drawing sideart) out to you.
AJ
AJ
Sweet deal. I've had my eye on that Space Invaders one. Just for the Bubble Bobble and Invaders.
I think i've figured out a design/theme/look etc.
Maybe an Ash grey hardwood Weecade clone cab. A couple of pieces of tinted black glass for the display and marquee. then behind the tinted marquee glass a "Namco" logo in red neon? couple red leaf switch pushbuttons and a red leaf switch ball top. a black metal back plate and black metal CP.
Anyone have a weecade sketch up model on hand?
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/13417147124_0b9911dd73_z.jpg)
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Awww, another weecade clone... I still like my idea of the bartop that mimics the Pacman Battle Royale stand-up cabinet:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=306623) :lol
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So pretty much test for current and if it's below what the USB gives off we're good to go?
That would be a great piece of info for anyone planning on using one in a build.
Scott
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I don't get a reading on mA, i'm guessing the fuse on my meter is blown?
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I don't get a reading on mA, i'm guessing the fuse on my meter is blown?
Umm. . . Did you move the red lead to the center connector?
Scott
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:applaud: Nice, hadn't even thought to look for an online database of files. Ok, well with my limited (very limited) sketchup skills, heres what i was thinking...
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7194/13418824284_9447c02d31_c.jpg)
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2808/13418823754_c5bd1e45ed_c.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7069/13418723833_2871812f40_c.jpg)
I didn't have the time to add in the glowing red neon "Namco" logo. but you get the basic idea. A couple volume up/down buttons for the TV. Probably run the wood grain for the side panels vertically rather then horizontally shown in the pictures. Dark tinted glass for both the Marquee and display. Maybe a switch on the back for power, and one separate one for the neon logo? Without a computer and with such a thin LCD panel i'm going to have a ton of room left over too.
This is all just a theoretical plan. May change in time.
(http://gifrific.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/tracy-morgan-nope.gif)
Yeah. Don't sully this awesome project with a weecade shell. I built mine and I'm now in the process of gutting it for a Star Wars cab. If you are doing a weecade you might as well go this (http://bartopmania.com/index.php?t=msg&th=665&start=0&) route.
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I think something similar to Haruman's midway vert would work well. But a standard Weecade design? naw.
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I'm not sure I'd go hardwood for a Pac-centric build. Cabs from that era were bright and colorful. I think something like that would be right up your alley and would work nicely. Your hardwood design would probably fit a Western-themed cab nicely, or maybe a Tapper. :dunno
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In all seriousness if you want to do a bartop it would be nice to see a Pac Man shaped cabinet with the bottom half cut off.
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*sigh*
I didnt say to use a weecade, I didnt saying using one was bad. I didnt say to buy a kit from Haruman or Rick or anything. What I said was, make it in the shape of his Midway inspired vert. Mostly because his vert is based on a Pacman cab and you're making a mini one. His proportions are already scaled down and should be easier to go off of.
I digress.
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In all seriousness if you want to do a bartop it would be nice to see a Pac Man shaped cabinet with the bottom half cut off.
Kind of like this one made by Well Fed Games a couple years back :
VID00604.MP4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DdmZO6s5-qE#ws)
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I don't get a reading on mA, i'm guessing the fuse on my meter is blown?
Umm. . . Did you move the red lead to the center connector?
Yep, went back and forth a couple times and even read the manual. Just reads zero. :dunno
That certainly does sound like a blown fuse.
At least you can tell that it draws about 60 mA (0.06 A) while using the 10A range setting based on the earlier photo.
Scott
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Kind of like this one made by Well Fed Games a couple years back :
Which was based on the Brian Bishop bartop plans found here, FYI: http://vectorlib2.free.fr/Plans/ (http://vectorlib2.free.fr/Plans/)
Of course my cab had to accommodate a CRT monitor.
ChanceKJ: Any chance for a pic of the pac boards with all the pins labeled? Looks like you are most of the way there already.
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FOr anyone looking for one of these it seems Kmart got a new supply of inventory of these and the Space invaders units -- $24.99 for the Pacman 12 game unit and $21.99 for the 10 game Space Invaders unit !
Made a trip to the local Kmart and they had about 10 of the pacman and 12 space invaders in the store so will probably be picking one up this week. Since I found an old AC plug that is 6V 200ma output that should work fine to replace the batteries and have an old 13" TV sitting in the closet that has the proper inputs so looks like a good start for building something (perhaps a Dig Dug based bartop) :applaud:
Thanks for this. I picked one up on my way home today. Surprisingly, I had a bunch of Shop Your Way rewards built up that I didn't even know existed, so got it for free.
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Anyone thought about one of THESE (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062601) to trim down the voltage on a 6-12v cheapo phone charger?
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Anyone thought about one of THESE (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062601) to trim down the voltage on a 6-12v cheapo phone charger?
Screw the regulator. Do what I did and build a USB tap. So happy with that!
I like that idea, but the TV I picked up off Craigslist today doesn't have USB... Samsung SyncMaster 710MP
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Thanks for this. I picked one up on my way home today. Surprisingly, I had a bunch of Shop Your Way rewards built up that I didn't even know existed, so got it for free.
Glad to help -- also stopped and picked mine up on the way home today ! :applaud:
Anyone thought about one of THESE (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062601) to trim down the voltage on a 6-12v cheapo phone charger?
Screw the regulator. Do what I did and build a USB tap. So happy with that!
I like that idea, but the TV I picked up off Craigslist today doesn't have USB... Samsung SyncMaster 710MP
Could get a cheap 5V 1a USb plug for less than $2.59 shipped to plug into a power strip ( http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1340TA6297 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1340TA6297) )
(http://images10.newegg.com/NeweggImage/productimage/A134_130155205288857723xnNH3rvYK8.jpg)
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/Waits for Scott to chime in and call me crazy... ???
You're crazy. :P
Scott
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Lol! At the very least you have inspired me to root though a lot of old junk I have around the house. I should have an old Wico 4 way joystick around here somewhere...
Following with great interest!
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Does this help? All the important ones are labeled, except for the buttons on the bottom right, but thats just A, B, and a common ground.
Yeah, that's great. For some reason I expected it to be more complicated. :laugh: Thanks.
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When did it become popular to be sick of Weecades? Welcome to like 4 years ago, BYOAC.
Those TV joysticks sure have improved....
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Lol! At the very least you have inspired me to root though a lot of old junk I have around the house. I should have an old Wico 4 way joystick around here somewhere...
Following with great interest!
I have both the standard and deluxe models of the larger flashback units. The deluxe has some really awesome posters that would make great cabinet side art.
When did it become popular to be sick of Weecades? Welcome to like 4 years ago, BYOAC.
Those TV joysticks sure have improved....
the pac and spacer invader units have already emulated surprisingly well considering the limitations of the hardware and standard televisions.
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Well, this is good news....
Looks like if I want to use a particular surface transducer that I had in mind it will replace these speakers perfectly! This cab will be so simple it won't even have speakers. Well, conventional speakers anyway. ;D
The transducers are like $21+shipping. So I'm gonna get just one, unhook both speakers from the TV and adjust the audio in the TV to only work out of the one channel that the transducer is connected too. I mean, the PnP only has mono audio anyways, why not cut costs?!
So spending $21 + shipping rather than using the speakers that the TV already has to cut costs :dizzy:
Just kidding with ya - would be interesting to see what it winds up sounding like with that type of set up.
Unfortunately I didn't have much luck with the cost cutting effort -- had planned on using a 13" TV I had sitting in a closet (old Disney princess TV the niece out grew ) but the manufacturer in it's wisdom didn't put TV\AV mode switch on the unit just on the remote and also made it switch back to TV mode every time power is turned off - So you have to change to AV mode every time you turn the unit off - I figured out a way to change it to AV without the remote but it is by pressing the power button after turning it on to cycle through the modes and is not completely reliable (if you press to long it shuts off rather than switching modes :angry: ) - So looks like I'll have to source a different TV to use (hopefully the local Goodwill will have something) as I have a feeling using that one would cause more frustration than it's worth.
On the Plus side the 6v 250ma power adapter that was sitting in a box works fine to bypass the batteries for the PNP unit - so it's not all bad news at least.
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Well, this is good news....
Looks like if I want to use a particular surface transducer that I had in mind it will replace these speakers perfectly! This cab will be so simple it won't even have speakers. Well, conventional speakers anyway. ;D
The transducers are like $21+shipping. So I'm gonna get just one, unhook both speakers from the TV and adjust the audio in the TV to only work out of the one channel that the transducer is connected too. I mean, the PnP only has mono audio anyways, why not cut costs?!
So spending $21 + shipping rather than using the speakers that the TV already has to cut costs :dizzy:
HAHAHAHA! I was thinking the same exact thing but didn't want to be "That Guy"! :afro:
I've never seen a transducer in action, so it'll be interesting.
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I interned at a transducer company in the 90s (which meant I sat in the corner) and I still have no idea what the hell those things actually did. They kept telling me "sense vibration in airplane engines." All I really figured out was it was yet another company that got raw goods duty free, slapped them around a bit, and sent them to the mainland as American.
:dunno
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When you get it, you want to test the urban legend that these things can be used as a poor man's sonovox?
Incredible Sonovox - Kay Kyser - 1940 film "You'll Find Out" (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kH-krlgo2e8#)
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For a majority of my project, I use those cheap chinese-made PC speakers and hack them into my set-ups.
bob roberts has a nice guide on them http://www.therealbobroberts.net/aab.html (http://www.therealbobroberts.net/aab.html)
You can usually get these things for free, or for like $10. Good value for what we need it for, IMO.
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HAHAHAHA! I was thinking the same exact thing but didn't want to be "That Guy"! :afro:
I've never seen a transducer in action, so it'll be interesting.
LOL - Couldn't help myself - but for $20 it's not gonna break the bank and I agree it will be interesting to hear about the results
Have you tried pawn shops?
Good idea - I'll check them if Goodwill doesn't have anything.
EDIT : Checked Goodwill today and they had some tvs for $10 that would have worked fine but while looking through the AC adapter box came across an old Radio Shack RF Modulator that had the Audio video in that the unit needed and then coaxial output to the TV using channel 3 or 4 on the tuner for $2 :applaud: ( So can use this with the disney TV and not have to deal with switching modes every time it is turned on as it will come on to channel 4 just fine from powered off so now can make it work with just the 1 button press like wanted - though it uses about 4.5W of extra power to run the modulator.)
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/OTE2WDE1MDA=/z/oWgAAOxyYWpSab0l/$T2eC16h,!zQFIb4Jjj7IBS,b0lbGw!~~60_57.JPG)
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Damn, I just threw one of those in the trash. :-[
AJ
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What about an LED edge-lit sign? Cheap and easy. And if you want multiple colors, just use multiple pieces of plexi in different planes.
AJ
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Decided to scrap the idea of using the old 13" TV as it would be a PITA to fit in a weecade clone due to the depth and had decided to use a Galaxian theme for the artwork adjusted to fit the design.
Then was looking for a screen to use and came across a 9.2" car headset monitor wit AV in for $29 at Walmart that will make for a nice mini bartop. (Link if any one else is interested at this price it seems a good deal ( http://www.walmart.com/ip/Planet-Audio-PHR9B-9.2-Auto-Headrest-Monitor-Tan/20611782 (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Planet-Audio-PHR9B-9.2-Auto-Headrest-Monitor-Tan/20611782) ) with shipping and tax it came to $36.77
Specs for the monitor :
Planet Audio PHR9B 9.2" Headrest Monitor:
9.2" monitor
Built-in IR transmitter
Resolution: 800 x 480 pixels
Front panel controls
On-screen menu
A/V inputs
Color: Tan
Includes wireless remote
(http://ts1.mm.bing.net/th?id=HN.608015597961544784&pid=15.1)
Will see what it looks like when it arrives (should be about the same time as the ball top joystick and happ buttons) -- Here's also a pic of the artwork WIP in case you wanted to see it.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=138575.0;attach=307095;image)
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Yours is going to be WAY more cost effective then mine. Like seriously, I'm starting to think I need to check my ambition at the door on the next project. ;D
Are you gonna scale down the plans to fit the display like I did? I think I only had to go down 12.25%.
Yeah much easier to scale down than up ! once I get the monitor and CP parts I'll have a better idea of how much to scale it down (guess I should probably start a project thread rather than keep hijacking yours ;) ) figure with the headrest portion the specs say it is about 13x16x5 inches for the monitor so should be smaller once it is removed but not sure what the dimensions will wind up being - plus will have to figure out the power requirements for it and track down a proper size 12V source but should have something laying around somewhere.
Nothing wrong with spending more if you get the results you are wanting ( I do kind of enjoy trying to make it look good on a tight budget) - but also enjoy seeing the kind of things you are coming up with.
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Awesome! Sounds ample for blips and beeps. I might have to get one just to toy with.
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It's seriously cool. Definitely worth the $20.
That thing works really well for the price !! (good decision to chance it !! ) - Do you have a link ?
One Last Hijack and then I'll start my build thread - Good old Walmart cancelled my order for the $37 ($29 + tax & shipping) monitor (even though the funds are still on hold with my Debit Card account) - so wound up ordering a 7" RCA slave monitor for a portable Dual display Auto DVD player for $16.77 shipped (needed the slave monitor since it has AV in and the price was right !!) Saved $20 but lost 2" of screen size -- it arrived today so just waiting on the joystick to get started building. (already soldered the Power for PacMan unit to bypass the batteries) :applaud:
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Might be awhile before I get to build it -- went to track the joystick tonight and found this : ( It makes it all the way from China to the PO right down the road and they say it's undeliverable :angry: -- Really hope they wait at least a day before returning it to china -- Seeing it wasn't even suppose to arrive until Friday !!!)
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That transducer is damn cool. :cheers: Where does the sound appear to come from, the whole table or from the transducer itself?
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The whole table. Well it's a big table. So localized in the area of the transducer. I tried putting it up to my head, very trippy! I plan on mounting it dead center of the cab base under the control panel. Pffft, conventional speakers.
Ain't nothing wrong with a conventional speaker. Especially when they're free and attached to the TV you're already using. :cheers:
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Yeah, but think of the time and maybe money I'll save on adding speaker grills and relocating the drivers. Besides design wise the omission of them is pretty cool.
:cheers:
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Let me know what you think of that stick. I prefer the Pac-Pro Leaf Stick to that one (I've had them both).
Love those leaf switches, though. Bought those specifically for my Macross build. Those were the only ones I even considered.
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Very cool idea with the marquee. But the neon, is it be necessity it has so much space between each letter? It's more a resemblance of the logo than the actual logo like that. :cheers:
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get those letters cut out, paint em read, and light up a white piece of paper behind it. true 3D marquee!
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Hey Chance I had been keeping up with your thread great build so far. I had been thinking about doing a 3/4 or 2/3 scale for my little girl. But I Didn't want to use emulators and a computer because she would have it jacked up in 15 minutes. So i was going to get a 19 in one in the cab. Anyway I was at the Dollar store and they had one of those pacman games like yours on clearance for $15. So I picked it up.Hopefully it is simple enough that she can easily use it.
So I was trying to sift through your thread did the usb plug to power it okay? Any problems with it? I think the wiring is pretty straight forward.
Jay
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I had actually thought about incorporating a wii into it also but i'm getting mixed information on whether or not you can get an arcade stick and buttons to work. I'm gonna have to go cheap somewhere. I just finished my space invaders cabinet [url]http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,137839.0.html/url] and I started a mini pinball build, So my funds are limited. She came up to me all sweet and cute when I was building that space invaders cabinet and she said " daddy will you build me a little arcade when your not busy someday"? So now I'm gonna build her one. How could you refuse that.
I noticed your builds they all turn out nice and are well planned. I wish I had your patience. As I said earlier I need to go cheap somewhere. I have most of the arcade parts. already. I need to find a way to do some cheap artwork. She will probably end up coloring all over it anyway. I will probably use the molex idea and incorporate a few of those devices or use an AV switcher
Jay
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She will probably end up coloring all over it anyway. I will probably use the molex idea and incorporate a few of those devices or use an AV switcher
Jay
If she enjoys decorating it you could use some Rustoleum Magnetic Primer http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,137839.0.html (http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-247596-Magnetic-Primer/dp/B003ZW7XL4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1401462037&sr=8-1&keywords=magnetic+wall+paint)
and then an overcoat of Chalkboard paint http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Specialty-30-oz-Flat-Black-Chalkboard-Paint-206540/100141287 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Specialty-30-oz-Flat-Black-Chalkboard-Paint-206540/100141287) -- Figure that way she could do her own decorating with colored chalk for drawing and\or arcade character magnets and rearrange\change it when she wanted.
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I got a line on some cheap molex, and art wise use Brad: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,134866.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,134866.0.html)
So happy I want with him for my printing.
I'll second using Bradley. Quality stuff.
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Hehe, you just wait till you see what he's printing for me right now. Guys a PRO!
Awesome. He printed up my posters custom side art for my Macross cabinet, and he did the die cutting of the numbers and logo for the bottom part. CKJ is right, dude is solid PRO.
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This is not so much of an update as it is a "Hey, look what came in the mail for this build"...
Custom momentary and latching mini vandal switches i had had engraved with Helvetica. ;D
"Display" is momentary and will power the TV on and off.
"Marquee" is latching and will independently control the neon sign marquee i'm planning.
"Power" is latching and will control the Nuclear ICBM's that will enslave humanity with Kung-Fu grip action.... :laugh:
Where do you get those button done at? I don't think I'll need them, but incase I change my mind it might be nice to et some like that with labels on them.
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Hey Chance I had a question for you. Do you know a way that if you put say that pacman game and say like this: http://www.amazon.com/TV-Games-33836-Space-Invaders/dp/B005XRP3WK/ref=pd_rhf_dp_s_cp_6_6ZKN?ie=UTF8&refRID=1750ARTNK9K8GNSJ6VX6 (http://www.amazon.com/TV-Games-33836-Space-Invaders/dp/B005XRP3WK/ref=pd_rhf_dp_s_cp_6_6ZKN?ie=UTF8&refRID=1750ARTNK9K8GNSJ6VX6) on the same joystick. I know you could use an AV switcher for the video, but I couldn't think of a way to switch joysticks from one device to another. I know you had molex clips but I was building this for my nephew and I wanted an east way to switch between systems. Or would it matter if you both were hooked to the joystick, if you killed the power the device you weren't using, would the one that was powered on still work?
Jay
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At that point, it's cheaper and easier to buy a cheap ATOM board and a Minimus AVR...
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Hey Chance I had a question for you. Do you know a way that if you put say that pacman game and say like this: on the same joystick. I know you could use an AV switcher for the video, but I couldn't think of a way to switch joysticks from one device to another. I know you had molex clips but I was building this for my nephew and I wanted an east way to switch between systems. Or would it matter if you both were hooked to the joystick, if you killed the power the device you weren't using, would the one that was powered on still work?
Jay
I think it would work fine if you wired both to the buttons\joystick and then just powered off the one not in use somehow (perhaps a 3 way switch where 1 powered Pacman, 1 powered Space invaders and 1 position was off) and then also combine the AV outs so they go to the same AV ins (so no need to change the video source settings on the display) - Though I'd suggest just building 2 systems so he and a friend can play at the same time !!!
Almost finished my Galaxian build - Thanks again for the idea to use one of these in a build as it came out fairly good and was pretty cheap to build ( Since I could use my laser printer and some sticker paper for the artwork since it was printable on 8.5 x 11 sheets ! - though I may eventually rebuild with a larger monitor as the 7 inch is a bit small (but it did let me keep the size and cost down !) - Just need to finish the bezel art and laminate the new CP artwork ( adjusted to fit better ) so it doesn't wear out like the test CP did from use. ( But now that it is playable it is harder to take apart to install rather than play a few games :laugh2: )
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This is good enough to run MAME and the vertical classics. Put in your own hard drive, and you're good to go. I use one to run the scoreboard in my gameroom. $40 shipped.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Optiplex-160-Thin-Client-Intel-Atom-1-6-GHz-2-GB-MEM-2-GB-SSD-HD-NO-OS-f1-/231219986916?pt=US_Thin_Clients&hash=item35d5c901e4 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Optiplex-160-Thin-Client-Intel-Atom-1-6-GHz-2-GB-MEM-2-GB-SSD-HD-NO-OS-f1-/231219986916?pt=US_Thin_Clients&hash=item35d5c901e4)
Oh, and I have a few of those dedicated Ms. Pac units sitting around. I need to have a yard sale...
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I was thinking the same thing. I want Space Invaders on this thing too. Just haven't had a second to look up controller switching.
Boy, I sure wish SCOTT was here with one of his crazy "it's so simple, why didn't I think of that" ideas/solutions....... ;D
Since you rubbed the magic lamp, your wish shall be granted. :lol
First step is to define the problem: Switching between two plug-and-play games.
AFAIK, you will need to switch the following:
* Joystick, 2 buttons, and ground (7 contacts)
* Operating voltage and ground (2 contacts) -- assuming that power ground and button ground are separate
* Composite video signal (1 or 2 contacts)
* Sound? (might be able to just use a Y-connector, otherwise 1 or 2 contacts)
This leads to several possibilities to consider:
1.) A manual PS/2 KVM switch (http://www.amazon.com/Cables-3367-HD15-Manual-Switch/dp/B0000512IH/) with modified input/output wiring adapters i.e. video switching on one of the 15-pin video lines (R, G, or B) and other wires used for the other lines. Not 100% certain if there are enough wires for this, but there probably are. :dunno
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31oxYz8Kp-L._SX425_.jpg)
2.) An old parallel port (printer) A-B switch. (Not sure if it will handle the bandwidth of the video signal. :dunno)
Available here (http://www.amazon.com/CablesOnline-Parallel-Printer-Rotary-SB-001/dp/B00E6SQL46/), here (http://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Female-Straight-Switch/dp/B005XGF5CE), or (if you want to switch between 4 plug-and-plays) here (http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-03292-4-Port-Manual/dp/B0000512C5).
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61PV3Cn2bvL._SL1500_.jpg) (http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31uSF92OFnL.jpg) (http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41qpSdFFlJL.jpg)
Scott
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I dont care what anyone says. I still think Scott is a ghost in the machine.
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That sounds like something my 13-year-old nephew (twice-removed) Eugene Goostman from Odessa, Ukraine would say. ::) :P
Scott
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I still think Scott works in a call center in an underground bunker outside Lincoln, Nebraska. So he's got plenty of time and resources.
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I think there are 5 Scotts. Things changed for Scott after he watched Multiplicity with Michael Keaton.
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I think there are 5 Scotts. Things changed for Scott after he watched Multiplicity with Michael Keaton.
Hey Steve, did ya bring me any pizza Steve?
Scott
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Great! You ---smurfs--- broke Scott.
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Great! You ---saint's minions--- broke Scott.
Quoted so Chance can see the filter.
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I'm afraid. I'm afraid, Dave. Dave, my mind is going. I can feel it. I can feel it. My mind is going. There is no question about it. I can feel it. I can feel it. I can feel it. I'm a... fraid.
. . .
*sings while slowing down*
Daisy, Daisy, give me your answer do. I'm half crazy all for the love of you. It won't be a stylish marriage, I can't afford a carriage. But you'll look sweet upon the seat of a bicycle built for two.
Scott
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(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y45/Christopher4myspace/2001/2001apes-thumb-510x245-39088.gif)
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OK, so the other day I tested a newly acquired plug and play (same one as in this build, the most recent Bandai/Namco one) and I noticed that in Galaga when you get the double ship, the left ship's shot sprite looks a little weird. Can anyone confirm this for me on their unit? Struck me as strange, the rest of the emulation seems spot on. Not a battery-life issue.
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OK, so the other day I tested a newly acquired plug and play (same one as in this build, the most recent Bandai/Namco one) and I noticed that in Galaga when you get the double ship, the left ship's shot sprite looks a little weird. Can anyone confirm this for me on their unit? Struck me as strange, the rest of the emulation seems spot on. Not a battery-life issue.
Yep - I noticed the same here on my Galage mini build - I thought it might be my imagination but the left ships shot looks to be a pixel or 2 smaller in size (that or my eyes looking at a 7" screen or the widescreen format I was playing in)- doesn't seem to effect the gameplay but does look off just a bit)
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Yep - I noticed the same here on my Galage mini build - I thought it might be my imagination but the left ships shot looks to be a pixel or 2 smaller in size (that or my eyes looking at a 7" screen or the widescreen format I was playing in)- doesn't seem to effect the gameplay but does look off just a bit)
Thanks! Not a dealbreaker on these units but just wanted to make sure I was seeing what I was seeing.
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Yep - I noticed the same here on my Galage mini build - I thought it might be my imagination but the left ships shot looks to be a pixel or 2 smaller in size (that or my eyes looking at a 7" screen or the widescreen format I was playing in)- doesn't seem to effect the gameplay but does look off just a bit)
Thanks! Not a dealbreaker on these units but just wanted to make sure I was seeing what I was seeing.
SInce you have one setup can you check one more thing - I noticed on mine in the Pacman game the maze portions seem to flicker a bit -- I'm not sure if it is from the 5V input I'm using rather than 6V so can you see if yours does the same (if not I have another voltage regulator I can use instead that would provide the 6V but don't want to swap it out if it isn't going to change anything - since again it doesn't effect gameplay !)
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Yep - I noticed the same here on my Galage mini build - I thought it might be my imagination but the left ships shot looks to be a pixel or 2 smaller in size (that or my eyes looking at a 7" screen or the widescreen format I was playing in)- doesn't seem to effect the gameplay but does look off just a bit)
Thanks! Not a dealbreaker on these units but just wanted to make sure I was seeing what I was seeing.
SInce you have one setup can you check one more thing - I noticed on mine in the Pacman game the maze portions seem to flicker a bit -- I'm not sure if it is from the 5V input I'm using rather than 6V so can you see if yours does the same (if not I have another voltage regulator I can use instead that would provide the 6V but don't want to swap it out if it isn't going to change anything - since again it doesn't effect gameplay !)
Actually so far I have only used mine on batteries (so 6v) and haven't noticed any flickering.
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Actually so far I have only used mine on batteries (so 6v) and haven't noticed any flickering.
Thanks -- guess it's time to check all the connections then and make sure I didn't leave any loose connections or accidentally include a couple strands of ground wires in any of the splices that might be causing it. (figure I didn't see it (that I can remember) while using the 4 1.2A rechargeables so I'm pretty sure it isn't a voltage issue)
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2.) An old parallel port (printer) A-B switch. (Not sure if it will handle the bandwidth of the video signal. :dunno)
I think thats what rCadeGaming used on his amasing "Analog A/V Setup - 240p Goodness" thread. I just re-read a bit of it and it looks like he did a lot of modding to the switch. His way may be a little over kill but the switch boxes he uses look promising place to start.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129501.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129501.0.html)
Scott was clearly struck down by Darth Vader and now guides us all in his more powerful disembodied form.
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I got a line on some cheap molex, and art wise use Brad: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,134866.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,134866.0.html)
So happy I want with him for my printing.
I'll second using Bradley. Quality stuff.
Hehe, you just wait till you see what he's printing for me right now. Guys a PRO!
I will Third, fourth, fifth or whatever Brad's work!
(http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b185/viriiguy/DSCN2473_zps93ff71ec.jpg)
(http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b185/viriiguy/DSCN2472_zps8b6ed8ec.jpg)
(http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b185/viriiguy/DSCN2469_zps6a6ce142.jpg)
(http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b185/viriiguy/DSCN2468_zpsc44e9e43.jpg)
He worked HARD with me to make sure that those head pieces were the absolute perfect size.
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Thanks! I spent WAY too much on the project. But I love the end results. I hied a TF artist named Javier Reyes to do the art for me. He also designed my Miata as an autobot. It is going on the front of the cabinet one day.
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Amen on that!!! I don't want to say how much I spent on it.. But it was more than a lot of real pinball tables.. And less than some :)
Brad has the pics from my build on Hyperspin. But I will throw together a thread for here this weekend if I get a chance.
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I just wanted to share my build inspired by this project.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=313345;image)
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,140348.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,140348.0.html)
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120 days and all I get is a monitor update? Weak! :laugh:
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What does the other side look like? Can you debezel this?
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It's too bad you couldn't use those in portrait orientation, with the game taking up the whole screen.
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sell me the extra screen
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sell me the extra screen
He'll need that for Project Code Name: Yellow Fever II: Fever Harder. >:D
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sell me the extra screen
Why didn't I think of this?
@ChanceKJ I'll give you even money. $2.47.
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I'm not sure that rotation thing is easily done chance. I did some research, I think it's a little tough
Jay
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sell me the extra screen
Also keep an eye on EBAY under Slave screen or dual screen and you can find some for a decent price -- For Example this one for $22 shipped (not real bad but can usually find cheaper) -- ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/Philips-PD7012-7-LCD-SLAVE-Screen-MONITOR-ONLY-WORKS-GREAT-/271750168382?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f45927f3e (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Philips-PD7012-7-LCD-SLAVE-Screen-MONITOR-ONLY-WORKS-GREAT-/271750168382?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f45927f3e) )
or THIS ONE HAS 4 AVAILABLE FOR $20 - ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/PHILIPS-PD7012-37-Portable-DVD-Player-7-SLAVE-SCREEN-ONLY-4-AVAILABLE-/301507824331?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4633444acb (http://www.ebay.com/itm/PHILIPS-PD7012-37-Portable-DVD-Player-7-SLAVE-SCREEN-ONLY-4-AVAILABLE-/301507824331?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4633444acb) )
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problem is, none of those ever come with power cords and the sellers never respond when I ask for specifics to find a replacement cord.
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problem is, none of those ever come with power cords and the sellers never respond when I ask for specifics to find a replacement cord.
I usually do a google search on the model number of the screen\DVD player and\or look at the pic of the back of the monitor if given usually one or the other will give a look at the power specs ( FIgure most of them are pretty flexible since they are designed to work on 9V - 12V since they are designed to run on car voltages and only take a small amount of power.
For example the $20 ones I linked with a google search comes a link to the Manual ( http://download.p4c.philips.com/files/p/pd7012_37/pd7012_37_dfu_eng.pdf (http://download.p4c.philips.com/files/p/pd7012_37/pd7012_37_dfu_eng.pdf) ) and in it :
Input: 100-240V 50/60Hz 0.3A
Output: DC 9V 0.8A
SO you'd need an adapter that provides 9V and at least 0.8A which should be fairly easy to find at your local Goodwill ! OR a quick Google search for 9V DC power adapter comes up with this EBAY one for $1.95 shipped ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-to-DC-9V-1A-Converter-charger-Adapter-Power-Supply-1000-mA-5-5X2-1-2-5X0-7-/171414833630?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6393 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-to-DC-9V-1A-Converter-charger-Adapter-Power-Supply-1000-mA-5-5X2-1-2-5X0-7-/171414833630?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6393) ) which is 9V 1.0A so would work fine !