The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Woodworking => Topic started by: ZTylerDurden717 on November 21, 2018, 11:57:22 am
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Do you guys also have an issue where the t-molding cut starts out great from dead center but as you go on it drifts slightly upward and off center? I've tried the cut multiple times and no matter how I apply the pressure/grip on the router it drifts from center. I think I can live with it since it's centered for a good portion of the cut but was curious if you guys have a technique to handle that.
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Do you guys also have an issue where the t-molding cut starts out great from dead center but as you go on it drifts slightly upward and off center? I've tried the cut multiple times and no matter how I apply the pressure/grip on the router it drifts from center. I think I can live with it since it's centered for a good portion of the cut but was curious if you guys have a technique to handle that.
Are you tightening the router blade sufficiently ? Is the drift due to you moving the router off center or is the blade moving ?
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It's hard to tell but I'm going to lean towards it being the blade moving because I keep the same pressure and level from the beginning of the cut.
The router is natively a 1/2" shank and it comes with a 1/4" adapter to fit this t-molding bit. Could it be that the shank is sticking out too far out from the collet? The distance as I've read is supposed to be a "coin size" width distance but I give it more slack to get the depth I need.
edit: Attaching photo of cut. Don't mind the wood bits sticking out in some areas since I tested the t-molding and it'll still be a tight fit.
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It's hard to tell but I'm going to lean towards it being the blade moving because I keep the same pressure and level from the beginning of the cut.
The router is natively a 1/2" shank and it comes with a 1/4" adapter to fit this t-molding bit. Could it be that the shank is sticking out too far out from the collet? The distance as I've read is supposed to be a "coin size" width distance but I give it more slack to get the depth I need.
edit: Attaching photo of cut. Don't mind the wood bits sticking out in some areas since I tested the t-molding and it'll still be a tight fit.
I had an issue for my build but it was due to not tightening it enough.
Sent from my SM-J320R4 using Tapatalk
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It's hard to tell but I'm going to lean towards it being the blade moving because I keep the same pressure and level from the beginning of the cut.
The router is natively a 1/2" shank and it comes with a 1/4" adapter to fit this t-molding bit. Could it be that the shank is sticking out too far out from the collet? The distance as I've read is supposed to be a "coin size" width distance but I give it more slack to get the depth I need.
edit: Attaching photo of cut. Don't mind the wood bits sticking out in some areas since I tested the t-molding and it'll still be a tight fit.
I had an issue for my build but it was due to not tightening it enough.
Sent from my SM-J320R4 using Tapatalk
Did you live with it or redo?
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How well does that adapter fit? That is one extra point of slippage.
You should get a 1/4 inch collet for your router.
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It's hard to tell but I'm going to lean towards it being the blade moving because I keep the same pressure and level from the beginning of the cut.
The router is natively a 1/2" shank and it comes with a 1/4" adapter to fit this t-molding bit. Could it be that the shank is sticking out too far out from the collet? The distance as I've read is supposed to be a "coin size" width distance but I give it more slack to get the depth I need.
edit: Attaching photo of cut. Don't mind the wood bits sticking out in some areas since I tested the t-molding and it'll still be a tight fit.
I had an issue for my build but it was due to not tightening it enough.
Sent from my SM-J320R4 using Tapatalk
Did you live with it or redo?
It was on the 1st cut I did and it only drifted a bit so I kept it....you can't really tell as it only started to drift at the end of my ride side panel cut. So it's only off at the bottom
Sent from my SM-J320R4 using Tapatalk
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How well does that adapter fit? That is one extra point of slippage.
You should get a 1/4 inch collet for your router.
It's a 1/4" collet adapter that came with my 1/2" router. Could still be the cause of the issue but I'm not sure.
It was on the 1st cut I did and it only drifted a bit so I kept it....you can't really tell as it only started to drift at the end of my ride side panel cut. So it's only off at the bottom
Sent from my SM-J320R4 using Tapatalk
Cool I think I'll keep my cut too.
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I also f***ed it up on one of my bartop build's side panels. Tried to use a cheap router that had good reviews. Turns out it wasn't that good and the depth stop didn't hold so it drifted. I'll be re-doing mine but instead making the groove wider and using glue because I'm not convinced I want it dead centre and would like some wiggle room to centre it by hand, due to it being 18mm ply but the t-molding is 3/4", and one side will have artwork on it.
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I also f***ed it up on one of my bartop build's side panels. Tried to use a cheap router that had good reviews. Turns out it wasn't that good and the depth stop didn't hold so it drifted. I'll be re-doing mine but instead making the groove wider and using glue because I'm not convinced I want it dead centre and would like some wiggle room to centre it by hand, due to it being 18mm ply but the t-molding is 3/4", and one side will have artwork on it.
Now that I think about it, I think that's what the issue was. The freakin depth didn't hold and became slightly loose.
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Another thing that can be happening is never push the router bit 'ALL THE WAY' into the collet. Push it in, then back it out a little. If you bottom it out - it will not tighten properly - and is likely spinning loose..
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Another thing that can be happening is never push the router bit 'ALL THE WAY' into the collet. Push it in, then back it out a little. If you bottom it out - it will not tighten properly - and is likely spinning loose..
Where were ya when I needed you last summer? Haha