The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: Hicks on November 14, 2017, 01:58:32 pm
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Hi all.
My names Hicks and this is my first DIY arcade cabinet.
Its an on going work as i see new bits i add them on. I just brought some new buttons with led. I was a bit quick on buying and didn't read all ( got to excited).Just received them and im not to sure how to wire them up.
Ive included a link to the site its a french site as i live there. Sorry.
Can some one please le me know if they have an idea how i can wire them up.
https://www.cdiscount.com/jeux-pc-video-console/tempsa-20-diy-led-arcade-boutons-2-joysticks-2-u/f-103-tem7793120368138.html (https://www.cdiscount.com/jeux-pc-video-console/tempsa-20-diy-led-arcade-boutons-2-joysticks-2-u/f-103-tem7793120368138.html)
If someone can please help me ill be very grateful.
Hicks.
P.S i have it set up on a raspberry pi3
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If you can send that junk back you should. That whole kit is garbage.
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Related thread here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,154240.0.html).
That kit is rather odd. :dizzy:
The encoder boards and wire pictures show that they are the 2-pin (non-LED) variety, but the side-view diagram of the buttons show that they are LED buttons.
Unless the pictures are wrong and they ship 3-pin encoder boards and 3-pin==>4-crimp wire harnesses, you'll need to wire the LEDs separately.
Either way, 20mA/LED * 20 LEDs = 400mA for the LEDs alone.
That's a lot of current draw if you try to power it through the RasPi3.
Scott
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Thanks for the help just found a video on youtube im gonna rig the lights up to there own power supply.
Have just tested it with one it worked. This weekend try a daisy chain with them all.
Lesson learnt !!!! Read the fine print .lol.
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Related thread here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,154240.0.html).
That kit is rather odd. :dizzy:
The encoder boards and wire pictures show that they are the 2-pin (non-LED) variety, but the side-view diagram of the buttons show that they are LED buttons.
Unless the pictures are wrong and they ship 3-pin encoder boards and 3-pin==>4-crimp wire harnesses, you'll need to wire the LEDs separately.
Either way, 20mA/LED * 20 LEDs = 400mA for the LEDs alone.
That's a lot of current draw if you try to power it through the RasPi3.
Scott
Just out of curious (and you know Jenn don't play with that stuff) or read French for that matter..... But that kit doesn't seem like such a bad deal, other than possibly quality, Wouldn't he want to run the LEDs on its own circuit anyway, Or am I just missing something obvious?
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Wouldn't he want to run the LEDs on its own circuit anyway, Or am I just missing something obvious?
For a PC setup, the 3-pin version of the ZD encoder board is designed to power this type of LED button via USB with no problem, unless maybe you connect it via an unpowered hub.
-- The official USB spec for unpowered hub is 100mA per port, but most can handle much more.
For a RasPi setup, he might want to run a separate LED circuit.
An inexpensive RasPi 2.5A power supply can have trouble handling this relatively large current draw by an external device without a voltage dip. (Indicated by a lightning bolt in the upper right corner of the screen)
The under-voltage lightning bolt occasionally pops up even with a setup that draws much less current. (Retroflag NESPI case, ethernet cable, wireless keyboard, one PS2-style gamepad, and a thumb drive)
(https://i.stack.imgur.com/jmloz.jpg)
Scott
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Wouldn't he want to run the LEDs on its own circuit anyway, Or am I just missing something obvious?
For a PC setup, the 3-pin version of the ZD encoder board is designed to power this type of LED button via USB with no problem, unless maybe you connect it via an unpowered hub.
-- The official USB spec for unpowered hub is 100mA per port, but most can handle much more.
For a RasPi setup, he might want to run a separate LED circuit.
An inexpensive RasPi 2.5A power supply can have trouble handling this relatively large current draw by an external device without a voltage dip. (Indicated by a lightning bolt in the upper right corner of the screen)
The under-voltage lightning bolt occasionally pops up even with a setup that draws much less current. (Retroflag NESPI case, ethernet cable, wireless keyboard, one PS2-style gamepad, and a thumb drive)
(https://i.stack.imgur.com/jmloz.jpg)
Scott
I would use a powered USB hub for a RPi setup anyway. That lightning bolt is hard bugger to get rid off. But the official power supply and a special RPi powered hub did the trick eventually for me.
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You may want to check out some tutorial videos here on wiring: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,80229.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,80229.0.html)
DeL
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Thanks again to you all..
Looks like i have found mu solution.
As this is my first Arcade cab all i learn from you lot will be put to use on the second then the third.
Cheers all.
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FINALLY, some kind of comprehensive answer, Even affords itself the "plug and play" mentality.... Without over analyzing this however, my initial thoughts would be, Heat, an issue nobody ever seems to take seriously, A already hot running processor pushing a handfull of those lights would create even more heat on the board, this most likely wouldn't be so bad given theses machines are most likely not running 24/7 like a commercial machine, but still it would be just as easy to use a switcher.(or use and inverter.)....THX 8)