The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: KLRinstinct on January 10, 2017, 04:54:23 am
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G'day fellas. James from Australia here. I've just joined up but I've been lurking around for the past few weeks. Mostly been studying Chances build like a lot of people seem to have been doing. I stumbled across it while scouring the net for decent build plans and guides but couldn't find anything I liked. His seems to suit me to a tee. Only thing I plan to change is the CP. I'll be making a more curved kinda one. (EDIT- Maybe. The aircraft carrier style is growing on me)
Here is the link to Chances el primo quality original build : http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135116.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135116.0.html)
Mine will be a bit more basic (Codename - Underambitios) than his. If you want to know how to build this yourself I suggest you go to his page as he has lots of info.
This cab will be primarily for fighting games but everything will get a go on there. Basically it had to be 4-player (for TMNT and NBA Jam) and able to fit a 32" LCD that I have lying around here. Powering it will be my old PC which isn't too bad in fact. It almost still cuts the cheese these days with PC games. I plan on setting it up with Ubuntu and trying the Retropie x86 setup.
(EDIT- I'm trying Maximus Arcade first. Looks real nice and so damn easy to setup. And it just works, no crap.)
I will be building this thing using (Dung dung duuung!!) particle board. Hate on my friends... lol. Yeah I'd prefer to go with MDF or whatever that other one is, but I stumbled across these kick ass huge pieces of particle at the local hardware store that had 1 side slightly damaged on them for $2ea!! I couldn't say no and its the only reason this project has come to fruition. And hey if its good enough for them in the old days its good enough for me now. I've thumped it and tried bending it and it sure feels pretty solid to me.
Ok I've got wood, glue, and a bunch of tools here already my next step is to get some screws and also find somewhere I can get Chance's template printed out.
In the meantime I've started looking for joystick/button kits. If anyone has any advice on what to look out for and where to get them that would be greatly appreciated. From what I'm gathering Sanwa are the sticks to go for? Will be hammering this with lots of fighting games so don't want no weak spring sticks I'm guessing.
Thanks for reading and I look forward to mixing it up with you all
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/Smileys/default/wink.gif)
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Thanks for the input mate. I'll check into the j-sticks. There's that many choices its ridiculous lol! Starting to think I may just get 2 ebay 2-player kits and be done with it for now. Really liking those chrome trimmed buttons at the moment too. Reckon they'd look dead sexy with some chrome t-moulding to match on a darkish cab. I can always get fussy later and switch out the sticks I guess.
Looking at these ones for starters : http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/262705640280?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/262705640280?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
Also really digging these player buttons : http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/262705570893?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&var=561630385114&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/262705570893?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&var=561630385114&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
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i'd avoid the ebay chepo kits personally.
It's worth it to spend a little money on the controls.
Thats more of a personal opinion tho.
I'd avoid the ones with the chrome ringed buttons. If you grew up in arcades, those flat buttons don't feel like the ones you grew up with at all.
And Chance is right, spend a little more money on the joystick. In the long run, it's worth it more than any light up button you'll ever buy.
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Cheers guys I'll keep looking around. Just would prefer to get some sort of kit if possible not keen on working out wiring and such too much. I just finished doing an engine conversion on my old ute (modern motor into old car) and had to make up my own engine/ecu loom and it took forever so my brain wants a break from wiring and diagrams and working out what this is and what that does. Just for a bit anyway lol.
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Cheers guys I'll keep looking around. Just would prefer to get some sort of kit if possible not keen on working out wiring and such too much. I just finished doing an engine conversion on my old ute (modern motor into old car) and had to make up my own engine/ecu loom and it took forever so my brain wants a break from wiring and diagrams and working out what this is and what that does. Just for a bit anyway lol.
Buy a cheap JAMMA harness and use the wiring from that.
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Cheers guys I'll keep looking around. Just would prefer to get some sort of kit if possible not keen on working out wiring and such too much. I just finished doing an engine conversion on my old ute (modern motor into old car) and had to make up my own engine/ecu loom and it took forever so my brain wants a break from wiring and diagrams and working out what this is and what that does. Just for a bit anyway lol.
Buy a cheap JAMMA harness and use the wiring from that.
Ok I'll look into that. Thanks a lot mate.
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Cheers guys I'll keep looking around. Just would prefer to get some sort of kit if possible not keen on working out wiring and such too much. I just finished doing an engine conversion on my old ute (modern motor into old car) and had to make up my own engine/ecu loom and it took forever so my brain wants a break from wiring and diagrams and working out what this is and what that does. Just for a bit anyway lol.
Buy a cheap JAMMA harness and use the wiring from that.
Ok I'll look into that. Thanks a lot mate.
No worries, you'll be happy you did.
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OK so the printing place I'm going through is officially giving me the shits. It doesn't take 4 hours to resize a pdf and print it off man what the hell. I haven't paid anything yet so I'm debating wether or not to get out the ruler and pencil and forgo the printed stencil all together... Really wanted to wrap this up today grrr.
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Hmmm look what I found in the garage. This could come in handy if I can figure out how to use it lol.
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LOL dont think a laser measure will help you much :p
Fighter enthusiasts tend to go with JLF sticks if that helps you at all.
With a octagonal gate.
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LOL dont think a laser measure will help you much :p
Fighter enthusiasts tend to go with JLF sticks if that helps you at all.
With a octagonal gate.
Lol yeah probably not. Might just stick it on the cab and tell everyone its the control panel for a space ship. :)
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I have updated the download package to include a 1-to-1 scale PDF document for better printing on large format printers. I've amended the old attachment to "Version 2.0" found here: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135116.msg1473385.html#msg1473385 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135116.msg1473385.html#msg1473385)
You the man Chance! My printer got it upsized ok but I'm sure this will be very handy for lots of people in the future.
And speaking of such, I got my template print out today! Woohoo! Now to stick this sucker down and get cutting. Mucho excitemento!!!
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Now bust out that saw and cut a board....
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For joysticks and buttons in Australia try ozstick.com.au. He is our Australian supplier for ultimarc stuff and other things.
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For joysticks and buttons in Australia try ozstick.com.au. He is our Australian supplier for ultimarc stuff and other things.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ooh nice. I'll definitely check them out thanks mate. Ive only found one Aussie supplier so far.
Well I've cut the side panels out with the help of chances template that I got printed. Worked a treat. I'm surprised at how nicely the particle board cut. I thought it was gonna end up a mangled mess on the edges but no. I'll throw up a pic when I get home. I also stopped in Bunnings today and picked up a bunch of wood screws and some 19mm timber for the inner bracing.
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This is my third time writing this...The first two were a bit more detailed...damn picture files were too big.. Bah!
Not bad for a rookie I think. I clamped both pieces together and cut them as one using a jigsaw and a straight piece of wood to guide me on the straights. Gonna use that sander to go round the edges to ensure both sides are a perfect match although they came out near perfect as is.
Oh yeah, and I accidentally cut the corner off of my table haha, oops. :)
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When sawdust starts flying, sometimes the innocent (tables) suffer.
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LOL dude is after my heart.
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LOL dude is after my heart.
Table > Designer Jeans
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Table > Jeans > PBJ's beanbag
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When sawdust starts flying, sometimes the innocent (tables) suffer.
Haha yep. Lucky it's only a cheapie.
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Guys I'm up to the stage where I can start the inner bracing on the side panels. Not sure where to start though. Any advice on this is greatly appreciated. I'm gonna have a hunt around now and see what I can dig up.
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Little tip for guys who have cut their sides with a jigsaw like me. Keep the panels clamped together after you cut and run a square along the edges. This will identify spots where the jigsaw has cut on slight angles instead of straight down. You'll be able to see the slight gaps.
Get a long board sander like the one pictured a few posts up, its great for sanding the edges nice and straight. Use a smaller palm sized sander for the curves.
Also it is a good idea to spray some paint on the edges you want to sand as a guide. This will identify where you are sanding and where you should be sanding and any high or low spots. This is something I picked up while working on car bodies and I think it helps a lot. My side panels are now identical and nice and straight and the cuts are not angled at all now.
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Hmm well that sux. Sourced a router to do my t-moulding slots but the smallest size bit Bunnings has is 4mm. I need between 1.6mm - 2.0mm. Mucho frustrato...
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Guys I'm up to the stage where I can start the inner bracing on the side panels. Not sure where to start though. Any advice on this is greatly appreciated. I'm gonna have a hunt around now and see what I can dig up.
If you mean cross bracing, Mine is braced across the base, Across the middle bellow the monitor and the top of the monitor bellow the marquee.
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Guys I'm up to the stage where I can start the inner bracing on the side panels. Not sure where to start though. Any advice on this is greatly appreciated. I'm gonna have a hunt around now and see what I can dig up.
If you mean cross bracing, Mine is braced across the base, Across the middle bellow the monitor and the top of the monitor bellow the marquee.
Thanks for your reply mate. I was thinking more the steps used to map out where they are positioned on either side. I've started just measuring and marking lines on the one side and I'll measure and try replicate on the other side I guess that's all you can do really.
I'm having a hell of a time finding this slot cutting bit locally it seems there isn't one in the entire state! The ones I've found online aren't cheap either it's almost the same cost as a cheap router itself!
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Hmm well that sux. Sourced a router to do my t-moulding slots but the smallest size bit Bunnings has is 4mm. I need between 1.6mm - 2.0mm. Mucho frustrato...
I got my router bit from Groovy Game Gear. Costs a bit to get it sent to 'Straya, so order your t-molding at the same time.
http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=75&products_id=330 (http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=75&products_id=330)
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Guys I'm up to the stage where I can start the inner bracing on the side panels. Not sure where to start though. Any advice on this is greatly appreciated. I'm gonna have a hunt around now and see what I can dig up.
If you mean cross bracing, Mine is braced across the base, Across the middle bellow the monitor and the top of the monitor bellow the marquee.
Thanks for your reply mate. I was thinking more the steps used to map out where they are positioned on either side. I've started just measuring and marking lines on the one side and I'll measure and try replicate on the other side I guess that's all you can do really.
I'm having a hell of a time finding this slot cutting bit locally it seems there isn't one in the entire state! The ones I've found online aren't cheap either it's almost the same cost as a cheap router itself!
I just bought a new one, so I'll send you my old slot cutter for free if you pay shipping (we can ship it as cheap as possible). It should fit in a padded envelope. You'd still need the router bit, but that might be easier to find than the slot cutter.
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Guys I'm up to the stage where I can start the inner bracing on the side panels. Not sure where to start though. Any advice on this is greatly appreciated. I'm gonna have a hunt around now and see what I can dig up.
If you mean cross bracing, Mine is braced across the base, Across the middle bellow the monitor and the top of the monitor bellow the marquee.
Thanks for your reply mate. I was thinking more the steps used to map out where they are positioned on either side. I've started just measuring and marking lines on the one side and I'll measure and try replicate on the other side I guess that's all you can do really.
I'm having a hell of a time finding this slot cutting bit locally it seems there isn't one in the entire state! The ones I've found online aren't cheap either it's almost the same cost as a cheap router itself!
I just bought a new one, so I'll send you my old slot cutter for free if you pay shipping (we can ship it as cheap as possible). It should fit in a padded envelope. You'd still need the router bit, but that might be easier to find than the slot cutter.
Wow thanks very much for the kind offer, what a top bloke! Although I have just ordered one from another state in Australia here lol. I'm so impatient sometimes. Cost $44 aud with the fast shipping option. But thanks again, what a legend!
I have been browsing/searching art for the cabinet lately too. I've been looking at stuff that's 4 megapixel and up (2272x1704). Would this suffice for side cabinet art do you guys think?
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Well I've got my side panels all ruled up and marked out ready for the bracing. Once you get started the rest of it kinda flows on from there. It wasn't quite as difficult as I was expecting. Once one side is done its easy enough to measure and duplicate on the other side too. Pretty happy with it so far.
I learnt something today too. Its damn near impossible to cut anything straight with a hacksaw. Guess that's why its called a hacksaw coz you do a real hack job with it.
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Pretty happy. Got my slot cutter today and got the sides all slotted up. Was quietly shitting myself at the thought of using this router after the horror stories I've been reading.
Anyways I got stuck in and found it pretty easy once you get setup right. Took ages and many test cuts to line it up in the middle properly but its done now. I've since been cutting up the wood for the bracing and hopefully should have it all done and stuck on by the end of tomorrow.
Went to measure up my TV so I could get some idea of how wide I wanna make this thing and wouldn't ya know, my TV is only 26". I had it in my head all along it was 32"!!
<Insert joke about overestimating inches>
I'm measuring thinking "---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- this cabinet is not gonna be as wide as I thought it was...what the...". Looks like I'm on the hunt for a TV now too.
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Also, I wish you Americans would get with the metric system already. Look at the type of crazy conversions I gotta deal with - 2 feet 8 inches = 81.28cm!!! COME ON MANNN!!! This is ridonculous lol. That's 812.8mm. You try measure .8 of a millimetre. It cant be done. These numbers are ungodly. LOL rant over.
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There are countries that embraced metric, and one that put people on the moon. ;D
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But we all know the moon landings were faked! :lol
*insert conspiracy theory here*
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There are countries that embraced metric, and one that put people on the moon. ;D
True, true. They could've done it 5 years earlier though if they could measure stuff quicker heheh.
I guess its second nature when you were raised with it. But 5/8, 3/16 etc etc... I just wanna count man I don't wanna do fractions lol it does my brain in.
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Is that SAE years or metric years?
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Been playing with ideas in regards to cabinet art. Originally wanted a Street Fighter theme but I'm having trouble finding images that I like. So I'm switching it up to a Mortal Kombat theme or a mashup of the two, not sure yet. Here's a few I'm liking so far.
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Is that SAE years or metric years?
Haha. Metric. :)
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Love the Scorpion and Sub-Zero art. Will that file size look pixelated when stretched? I need to add side art to my cab but I was under the impression that you needed a massively large file for an image to stretch that big.
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Love the Scorpion and Sub-Zero art. Will that file size look pixelated when stretched? I need to add side art to my cab but I was under the impression that you needed a massively large file for an image to stretch that big.
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They are just small versions I made to upload. The photoshop files are around 500mb themselves. The DPI has been upscaled on them but I'm still not sure myself how they'd turn out yet. They look pretty sharp still with an 80" canvas size being displayed on my projector at 100" or so. Even when zoomed in. I'm willing to bet a few bucks on it I reckon.
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Awesome! Let us know how it turns out. I've got a Batman and a Superman pics I need to try out.
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Love the Scorpion and Sub-Zero art. Will that file size look pixelated when stretched? I need to add side art to my cab but I was under the impression that you needed a massively large file for an image to stretch that big.
Sent from my SM-G530R4 using Tapatalk
They are just small versions I made to upload. The photoshop files are around 500mb themselves. The DPI has been upscaled on them but I'm still not sure myself how they'd turn out yet. They look pretty sharp still with an 80" canvas size being displayed on my projector at 100" or so. Even when zoomed in. I'm willing to bet a few bucks on it I reckon.
I'm no Photoshop or artwork expert... but when I did my art I used a program called Photozoom to artificially increase the resolution of my source images. It's not perfect, but the results turned out ok, YMMV. My understanding is while you can put images in Photoshop and increase DPI, this does not increase the resolution of the source image. There may be some Photoshop tricks that help, but again I'm no expert.
I'd also recommend dropping in to Officeworks and doing a full scale black and white test print on plain paper. You'll get an idea of how good the resolution is and you can see how it looks on your build. A1 and A0 prints are like $5-$7 a page I think.
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I'm no Photoshop or artwork expert... but when I did my art I used a program called Photozoom to artificially increase the resolution of my source images. It's not perfect, but the results turned out ok, YMMV. My understanding is while you can put images in Photoshop and increase DPI, this does not increase the resolution of the source image. There may be some Photoshop tricks that help, but again I'm no expert.
I'd also recommend dropping in to Officeworks and doing a full scale black and white test print on plain paper. You'll get an idea of how good the resolution is and you can see how it looks on your build. A1 and A0 prints are like $5-$7 a page I think.
Yeah I'm pretty sure photoshop is somehow filling in the gaps coz I cant see any degrading. There are a few settings you can mess with when increasing dpi and image size too like smoothing/sharpening. I used to be great with photoshop but I've lost it all I've gotta google to do almost anything now lol. I might check out that program you mentioned anyway and see what looks better.
And thanks mate that's a great idea getting the test printout I'll do that.
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Well life got in the way and I didn't get my bracing stuck on yet. Just finished tonight cutting it all up. I'm just happy its over lol gets a bit tedious.
Also I scored a 32" Full HD LCD today for nothing. Gotta love visits to mums house there's always some goodies to be found there haha. Gonna swap her for the 26" so she still has a spare TV there in case she needs it. She also gave me a circular saw that had been in the shed for years unused. Really coulda used that a couple weeks ago...
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Hey fellas, ya reckon these screws protrude far enough? Measured it 10mm. Going into 18mm wood. Should be right yeah?
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Should be enough, wood glue as well ?
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Should be enough, wood glue as well ?
Yeah wood glue all round too. Cheers mate.
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:applaud: should be nice and solid when the glue dries :)
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Cheering. Had a look inside this TV and it looks like the controls will be pretty easy to relocate to the cab.
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Cool. My chrome player buttons rocked up today. I ordered these on a whim when I first started and planned to use all chrome buttons then started thinking about other options. These are off ebay from China. I was looking at proper arcade seller sites thinking they may be better quality there but I'm not sure. I'm guessing the ones they sell would be the same as these and come from China anyway. As someone mentioned to me earlier in the thread they feel quite "clicky" with a loud and solid click to them. I haven't played an actual arcade machine for a long time but I have the feeling the buttons used to be a bit softer on the click and not so loud. I would really like to use some of these chrome buttons all round if I can. Perhaps I could change them to a better switch in them. Any thoughts?
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Also, here is a picture of the actual switch in them. No doubt a cheap and nasty brand. Anyone know these?
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Never heard of them :p
Maybe a rip off of OMRON switches?
I like Cherrys the most of all the types I have tried.
A good quality switch (like the cherry) will reduce the click.
If the springs are stiff in the buttons you could change them out but it depends what they are really.
You will always have a bit of a click with microswitches.
Allot of old cades used leaf switches which are basically silent.
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Never heard of them :p
Maybe a rip off of OMRON switches?
I like Cherrys the most of all the types I have tried.
A good quality switch (like the cherry) will reduce the click.
If the springs are stiff in the buttons you could change them out but it depends what they are really.
You will always have a bit of a click with microswitches.
Allot of old cades used leaf switches which are basically silent.
Thanks for chiming in. I did some searching after reading your reply and yeah I like the idea of the leaf switches. Me and my buddies are old school street fighter veterans and we will be playing a lot of that and mortal kombat and killer instinct. We go nuts and my control pads get absolutely hammered. I know for sure this clicking would be unbearable at the rate we smash buttons. I've read that most of these chinese cheapies use 125g switches I'm guessing that what these ones are.
Paradise Arcades has these chrome buttons with the option of the 20g switches and say they are light and barely audible. Think I'll give them a shot as they are well priced and a reputable company by the looks. If they aren't soft and responsive and quiet enough I'll look into replacing all the switches with leaf ones later on. Next up, joysticks.
Link to Buttons: https://paradisearcadeshop.com/paradise-led-30-m/295-blue-chrome-led-pushbutton.html#/microswitch_force-20_gram_microswitch_upgrade/voltage-12_v_dc
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You could just buy the switches and replace the ones you have.
GGG have micro leaf switchs which are pretty good but smaller qd's than normal.
Tbh a good quality switch you wont notice the click when you are mashing the buttons to hadu-ken ure mate ;)
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You could just buy the switches and replace the ones you have.
GGG have micro leaf switchs which are pretty good but smaller qd's than normal.
Tbh a good quality switch you wont notice the click when you are mashing the buttons to hadu-ken ure mate ;)
Thanks I'll check them out too. Yeah those 4 player start buttons are all I've got so far. They will be ok with the heavy switches. Still gotta order all the actual playable buttons so may as well get them with the 20g switches as they're only $2.50ea. See if I like them.
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Woohoo!! Its starting to look a bit like a cab! Finally, up to the good bit.
PS Anyone know how I stop these portrait style pictures being rotated?
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Cab is looking good! :applaud:
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Cab is looking good! :applaud:
Thanks champ! Its getting there.
Been putting in some hours on photoshop playing with marquee design. Such a time vampire but you can do some really cool stuff.
managed to find a Street Fighter 4 font set and made up a copy of the colour scheme/style. Came out pretty good I reckon.
I'm still unsure of the title for this cab So far I'm running with BEAT DOWN ARCADE. Here's a few I was playing around with.
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I like #3 best because of what you did with beat down. It would be interesting to see #3 with just beat down straight instead of on an angle. Just a suggestion... what if you just called it Beat Down or Arcade Beat Down? That way Beat Down is your marquee focus instead of arcade.
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I like #3 best because of what you did with beat down. It would be interesting to see #3 with just beat down straight instead of on an angle. Just a suggestion... what if you just called it Beat Down or Arcade Beat Down? That way Beat Down is your marquee focus instead of arcade.
Yeah my first ones were pretty basic weren't they. I was digging the Rick picture though lol. Thanks for the feedback mate!
Been playing around a bit more -
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And a bit more. Considered just going mortal kombat all round as it would look more professional. Also considered the opposite end of the scale...
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Looking slightly more cabby. :) These angled cuts are a real batch I must say. Probably not so much If you have the right tools though. Hopefully today I'll have the last few panels cut and temp fitted then I'll get her primed up.
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Well I didn't get her primed yesterday had some real life stuff to take care of. Ended up spending some time on the lower frame and got that finished up. I wanted this thing to be able to roll easily sideways to fit through door ways so opted for these 4 360 degree rollers. Had to chisel a bit off of the lower frame edge so they would rotate in all directions without getting snagged. So nice to be able to move this around easily now. I think I will still install 2 levelers on the front a bit later for more stability when the cab is being hammered on.
Can't help thinking of marty's grandpa from back to the future "Whoa ho ho, look at it roll!!" Haha :)
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Second day trying to order some joysticks and buttons. This is getting out of hand. Lucky this PC has heaps of ram to handle all these tabs lol.
PS has anyone had a go with these round restrictor joysticks on fighting games?
http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=366&number_of_uploads=0 (http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=366&number_of_uploads=0)
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Gotta say, the postage rates from these online arcade shops to Australia are bloody ridiculous. $100+ is an outright joke when your spending near $200 at their store. Looks like I may have to buy what I can locally and just order the micro switches from overseas. Would get them locally too but cant find anyone who does the 20 gram switches around here. Starting to piss me orrrf. Someone told me this was supposed too be fun lolz.
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Have messaged Groovy Game Gear pleading for mercy. Also messaged Paradise Arcades yesterday haven't heard anything yet. Fingers crossed. http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/Smileys/default/bow2.gif (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/Smileys/default/bow2.gif)
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You could try ordering heavy items (like joysticks) from Oz Stick (Vic based) or Austin Amusements (Sydney based). Should be about $15 flat rate postage for 2 or 4 joysticks.
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You could try ordering heavy items (like joysticks) from Oz Stick (Vic based) or Austin Amusements (Sydney based). Should be about $15 flat rate postage for 2 or 4 joysticks.
Thanks man I'll check those guys out.
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Well I've finally decided on the joysticks and buttons. Got the buttons on order. Have the button controllers and TV mount on the way. Got some rgb led strips with remote controller to light up under the cabinet and the marquee. Also finished up some more on the cabinet. Got the first coat of primer on.
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You gotta go with the beat your face to a bloody pulp marque :notworthy:
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You gotta go with the beat your face to a bloody pulp marque :notworthy:
Yeah I quite like that one too gives me a laugh :)
Got the first coat of satin black on. Time to start looking at ordering some side art.
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You gotta go with the beat your face to a bloody pulp marque :notworthy:
Yeah I quite like that one too gives me a laugh :)
Got the first coat of satin black on. Time to start looking at ordering some side art.
Looks great I agree on the above marque title
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Still going on this thing boys! Lol. Been going in and off between my other car project. I'm just starting on my control panel now. Think I'm ready for some art now too. Got some funky led strips up top and underneath.
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just curious as to how wide the front is? I got the side templates just not sure on width.... looks awesome.
thanks
Jim
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This is looking good. If I were the OP I would take my time with the art IMO... that is a great cab, and looks like the build is going well. It's going to deserve some nice art. The guys on the art side will help you get going as far as letting ya know what they think works and don't. What have you got in mind for side art?
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Take the word "arcade" out of your artwork. And for the love of God don't replace it with something CADE.
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Thanks mate. I'm still plugging away on this!! Lol. I made mine 83cm wide. That is how wide I cut my Centre pieces.
just curious as to how wide the front is? I got the side templates just not sure on width.... looks awesome
thanks
Jim
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Thanks mate. Was thinking scorpion on one side and a blanka on the other. I have my cp top made up now.
This is looking good. If I were the OP I would take my time with the art IMO... that is a great cab, and looks like the build is going well. It's going to deserve some nice art. The guys on the art side will help you get going as far as letting ya know what they think works and don't. What have you got in mind for side art?
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Well this is where I'm at. Need to order some side art and fit the t-molding to the cab and sort a few other small things but getting there. Also need to get the glass. I'll have to consult chances oracle and see what he used. My control panel top took some effort but I'm pretty pleased with the result. I used 16mm mdf with a 2mm clear perspex. Oh yeah I've gone with my wacky title too I love it lol.
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Skip glass. Seriously, it was heavy, overpriced, and had the odd blemish when held up to a screen, your best bet is Tinted Plexi. If i could go back in time i'd slap myself in the head for getting glass.
Yeah good idea the rig is pretty heavy already hey. Thanks man for all your help so far. Your project write up has been a tremendous help and inspiration. My best friend saw mine coming together and decided to make one the same as well lol. With what you've put down in your thread and all what I've discovered while making mine it's been really quick and easy for him and he has caught right up to me already. I'll grab some pics of his too next time I'm there to show you.
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Skip glass. Seriously, it was heavy, overpriced, and had the odd blemish when held up to a screen, your best bet is Tinted Plexi. If i could go back in time i'd slap myself in the head for getting glass.
Serious???? Is good quality glass really that hard to get and HEAVY? As a percentage of the whole cab or on it's own vs plexi? I hope using glass isn't THAT bad... I am gettin sick of altering my plans :censored:
And that sounds like awful use of a time machine Chance... C'mon man!
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