The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: Nephasth on January 20, 2011, 08:41:13 pm
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http://youtu.be/ffzTkstqFlw (http://youtu.be/ffzTkstqFlw)
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CONCEPT PHASE
After months of thinking about building a MAME machine, I have finally come to a definitive decision as to what exactly I’m going to do. I acquired a 4 player, 2 monitor Run N Gun that had been converted from a Cyberball for dirt cheap on CL about 4 months ago. I have never been a fan of sports arcade games, but two working monitors for a mere $80, I couldn’t pass it up. It sat in storage still tarped up for a couple of months after I got it. Once I decided to convert it to a MAME machine, I brought it over to my house and set it up in my garage with my GORF.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=159820)
I turned it on to check out its working condition. The left monitor was way out of whack, and I thought it might need a cap kit. But after asking around on KLOV, I found out it just needed a ton of adjustments. Now both monitors are crisp, bright, and burn free.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=159822)
Player 1’s joystick only worked in two directions. I pulled the left control panel back and found two broken wires at the CP connector. After repairing those, all the controls are functioning properly. One of the speakers was also shot. I didn’t have an exact match, but did find one (from a Phoenix cab I got for free) that fit, and after wiring it up it seems to be working just fine. Well, after playing this game to test everything out, Run N Gun grew on me. I love beating the crap out of anybody who comes over on this thing.>:D But the potential this machine has for MAME is awesome.
Planned Build Specs:
Asus P5LP-LE micro-ATX motherboard
Intel Pentium D processor
250 GB hard drive
4 GB memory
Windows XP
Hyperspin FE
ArcadeVGA 3000
2x Wells Gardner 19K7601 monitors
I-PAC4
2x PACLED64s or 3x LEDWizs
4x Mag-Stick Plus joysticks
Black 2 ¼” USB Trackball
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=159824)
Each control panel is only 19.5” wide. So in order to fit a trackball, I’ve decided to have interchangeable control panels. The “stock” control panels have old school Atari logo sticks and three way buttons. I’ve got a friend that has access to industrial brake presses and materials. He’ll be able to duplicate the control panels with whatever holes I want in them. For normal play, both the left and right control panels will have two joysticks, one with a seven button layout and the other with a four button layout. Players 1 and 3 will be on the left side and 2 and 4 will be on the right. No more bumping elbows while playing the fighter games! In two player games each player will get their own screen. With the mag-stick plus joys, it will be a blast playing games like Robotron and Smash TV. I have also designed a trackball panel to be interchangeable with the left control panel for when people want to play the trackball games. There will be three buttons on each side of the trackball (it’s just not right to discriminate against lefties ;)). In the future I may make two spinner control panels and also a couple steering wheel control panels.
There is tons of room inside this cabinet. I plan on keeping the cabinet’s power supply and isolation transformers for the monitors. The motherboard and other computer components will be mounted inside towards the back of the cab. I will put in some extra boards between the computer components and the front space of the cab to be able to use the front for storage while protecting the guts. The storage will be used for console controllers, light guns, and the other control panels.
I already have MAME and Hyperspin set up on the computer and have all the preview movies loaded and working for each rom. Once my buddy gets those control panels made (hopefully within the next couple weeks), the converting/building will begin. I will start with the controls and installing the computer to get the machine functional/playable. After that, I’ll be focusing on cabinet restoration and making it pretty. Things to do for that: fill in blemishes, paint, new t-molding, cut new bezels, smoked monitor glass, custom marquee (maybe within 2 weeks), cabinet art/lighting.
Once this is converted to MAME I will probably be selling the Run N Gun board and marquee, as well as the Atari logo joysticks and the three way buttons.
I hope to have the entire project complete by the end of the year. We’ll see how it goes and I’ll update along the way, bear with me.
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i can't wait to see how this turns out. good luck, and take lots of pictures
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Just to give a hint at the design of the beast, these little 8" x 10" beauties will be mounted to the cab. For those of you who frequent the KLOV forums, you know where I got these. ;D
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=159932)
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so, youre selling the run n gun boards? I LOVE that game.
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so, youre selling the run n gun boards? I LOVE that game.
I'll keep you in mind when it comes time to part with Run N Gun.
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Well, I'm glad the manufacturing of my control panels has been delayed. I have changed my mind on what I will be using for my controls as well as some of the cabinet lighting. Instead of the Magstick Plus joys, I've decided to go with U360s. With those, there will be no need to adjust restrictor plates to switch from 8 way to 4 way. This will be easier for people unfamiliar with the set up. The U360s will remap if need be for whatever game is selected. I have also decided to wait on implementing the trackball panel. This will allow me to get the cabinet up and running sooner and cheaper. Thanks to the U360's input mode and available shift function, I will not have an immediate use for an IPAC (once I add the trackball panel, I will be adding an IPAC or Mini-pac). I was originally going to use button RGB LEDs for my marquee and cabinet lighting, but the other day I found some cool RGB LED strips: http://www.adafruit.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=285&zenid=1d9b3f50f7de2589ab4a4b21a6a4b769 (http://www.adafruit.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=285&zenid=1d9b3f50f7de2589ab4a4b21a6a4b769) They're cheaper on eBay. Besides plan changes, nothing else is new. I am expecting my marquee to show up some time next week, I'm excited!
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I've been waiting since the end of December for my Office Depot rewards card to come, well it finally showed up today! Free parts for the MAME computer!!! :woot
2.1 Speaker System
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=108719.0;attach=162048)
Belkin 5-port USB PCI Expansion Card
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=108719.0;attach=162050)
The speakers have a nice wired remote volume control / on/off switch / headphone jack which will mount nicely under one of the control panels. I wanted to buy another USB PCI card with my rewards card, but that was all they had... Hopefully they get another back in stock soon.
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WORK BEGINS!
Got bored today and removed the Run N Gun side art from the front.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=162317)
The original Cyberball art is pretty well intact. Aside from the adhesive residue, it almost looks brand new. Kind of sad to be covering it back up and poking holes through it soon...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=162319)
A couple detailed shots...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=162321)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=162323)
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I decided to remove the Cyberball sideart and all of the adhesive was left behind on the machine. I tried a few different adhesive removers and found Rustoleum's adhesive remover worked the best. Goo Gone and Goof Off didn't work worth a damn. The Goof Off evaporated within 30 seconds and didn't do anything to remove the adhesive. The Goo Gone just sat on top and didn't make the adhesive any easier to remove even after letting it sit. After letting Rustoleum's adhesive remover sit for 5 minutes, all the adhesive came up easily with a scraper and the little bits that were left over wiped off easily with a dry cloth. However, all the products I used didn't harm the paint underneath at all, which was nice.
The products I used:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=162413)
I highly recommend the Rustoleum!
After the adhesive was removed:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=162417)
The huge ball of adhesive that was removed:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=162415)
I thought I would tape my invaders up to the machine to get an idea of what it will look like when done. They'll be sitting about a half inch further away from the cabinet when they're finally mounted. They will also be RGB LED back lit as well. Here's a couple pics:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=162419)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=162421)
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I dismantled the coin doors this morning in preparation for powder coating. If my control panels are done soon (this week or next), I'll be sending those off with the coin doors as well. Both the control panels and the coin doors will be powder coated a stainless steelish or aluminumish color. Thinking about doing the top monitor glass retainers too, but they're textured black and in great shape. I think powder coating them a silver color might be distracting.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=162449)
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just curious, why powser coat them steelish, instead of just taking a wire brush and polishing them up?
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just curious, why powser coat them steelish, instead of just taking a wire brush and polishing them up?
Easier to clean and to protect the metal.
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This looks like its gonna be a good project. I will be watching intently.
Good tip on the rustoleum adhesive remover, I hate goo gone. after I use it, I feel I need something that removes the goo gone film.
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Nice. I like those space invaders! That's a great place for them on that cab...
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Thanks for the comments guys!
While my coin doors are in pieces, figured I would tackle the coin reject buttons. Here's some more invaders.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=162483)
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Minor update. I received my ArcadeVGA yesterday from Milhouse, thanks again man! Installed it and the drivers today. I have ran it on an arcade monitor yet, but it is working great via the pass through to my computer monitor. I also ordered a small batch of button and switch combinations from Paradise Arcade Shop (thanks Bryan!) to help me better decide what I want to install in the cabinet. The buttons will be lit with Paradise's RGB LEDs. I ran into a similar problem dawolv did with his RGB Ultralux buttons. Thanks to his tip on rerouting the RGB LED wires (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=103063.84), I was able to quickly come up with a similar solution for my buttons. Here's pics of the button mod for the RGB LED wires:
I drilled two holes in the switch mount base for the wires to pass through.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=162517)
Here's the wires routed through the holes.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=162519)
And a couple of assembled pics. No problems with the button hitting the wires while pressed now. :)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=162521)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=162523)
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Didn't mean to double post today, but... MY MARQUEE JUST SHOWED UP!!! ;D
However, it wasn't exactly what I ordered. I wanted it in a brushed aluminum finish and it came in just an aluminum finish. I may be able to get my buddy who is manufacturing my CPs to throw some grain on the marquee. The cut out portion is currently taped to the larger piece and isn't exactly centered. But when it is finished, the open area will be black and the cutout portion will stand out about an inch from the rest of the marquee. The cutout will also be RGB LED backlit like the invaders and this should provide a nice glow to the marquee. They're a little crappy, but here's some pics of the marquee:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=162527)
Lit up with the current set up, being able to see the fluorescent bulb sucks... Doesn't show the glow effect I'm going for at all either, but here it is.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=162529)
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Nice! That marquee will really look good with some brushed texture. I love the cutout glow effect.
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(http://www.r8pl8z.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/sweeeet-funny-license-plate.jpg)
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Minor update. Got some freebies from Molex today. These are the connectors I'll be using for the control panel harnesses. There will be three connectors for each control panel. Each control panel will use 1 of the 36 pin connectors (the large white ones) and 2 of the 24 pin connectors (the smaller white ones). The mating connectors for the 36 pin connectors I have now are on back order and should be here in 3 weeks. The small black connectors are for the U360s when I get them. The silver rolls are the pins for the connector housings, 200 pins per roll. Yes, all of this was FREE! Even shipping. Not the crimper tool though, I've had that for a while and it works great for crimping terminal pins. I just couldn't justify spending $8 per harness for the U360s when I could build them myself for $0.56 per foot. I'm estimating it will cost me under $2.00 for 4 button harnesses for the U360s. I know, I'm cheap.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=162613)
I also got some stainless steel tamper proof torx screws for the control panels today. My screw gun slips on the phillips screws and it's only a matter of time they're all jacked up. These screws will be nicer and should keep curious kids out from under my control panels. Old screws on the left, new on the right.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=162615)
I've also been doing some research on DIY brushed aluminum. I think I'm going to give it a shot on my marquee. I just hope I'll be able to get a close enough match to the brushed finish on the invaders. We'll see how that goes.
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I've also been doing some research on DIY brushed aluminum. I think I'm going to give it a shot on my marquee. I just hope I'll be able to get a close enough match to the brushed finish on the invaders. We'll see how that goes.
Not knowing what the Invaders brushed looks like in person, I can offer you this: I had great luck with creating a brushed aluminum look for my H.T. using my belt sander and a fine grit paper following the length of the aluminum. Just go slow and gentle and she'll come (out) as you wish. For my purpose the belt sander alone was perfectly fine, leaving fine grooves and a nice look.
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Not knowing what the Invaders brushed looks like in person, I can offer you this: I had great luck with creating a brushed aluminum look for my H.T. using my belt sander and a fine grit paper following the length of the aluminum. Just go slow and gentle and she'll come (out) as you wish. For my purpose the belt sander alone was perfectly fine, leaving fine grooves and a nice look.
Thanks for the tip. I'm going to try brushing the aluminum by hand first. If it takes too long and doesn't give a deep enough scratch I will definitely be trying out the belt sander technique.
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looking like a plan is coming together! :applaud: :applaud: Its weird, but you dealt with the led wire routing with led modules almost the same as I did:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=109040.msg1165972#msg1165972 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=109040.msg1165972#msg1165972)
When I received my led's from bryan, a couple were missing or had dislodged wire leads straight out of the package (Which he replaced with DOUBLE the led's when I told him about it, talk about above and beyond!). Reason I mention this, is that you might want to add a spot of hot glue @ the hole drilled to prevent the wires from being tugged loose from the module. If you take a look at my pics, thats what I did. Trying to re-solder leads to those surface mount component boards are tough cause things are sooo much smaller. Thats my two cents anyway. Good show! I'll be watching!!
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looking like a plan is coming together! :applaud: :applaud: Its weird, but you dealt with the led wire routing with led modules almost the same as I did:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=109040.msg1165972#msg1165972 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=109040.msg1165972#msg1165972)
When I received my led's from bryan, a couple were missing or had dislodged wire leads straight out of the package (Which he replaced with DOUBLE the led's when I told him about it, talk about above and beyond!). Reason I mention this, is that you might want to add a spot of hot glue @ the hole drilled to prevent the wires from being tugged loose from the module. If you take a look at my pics, thats what I did. Trying to re-solder leads to those surface mount component boards are tough cause things are sooo much smaller. Thats my two cents anyway. Good show! I'll be watching!!
It would be nice if the translucent IL buttons already had holes for LED wires. I was thinking about the hot glue idea on the back side of the board to keep the wires secure. But the holes I drilled are so close to the base of the button that when the wires are routed through them they hold the LED firmly against the button and there is no movement at all. A spot of hot glue at the holes themselves sounds like a great idea to prevent any accidents.
Edit: It is weird. Great minds think alike! ;D
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When I stripped and refinished my coin doors I used one of these:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100422668/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053 (http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100422668/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053)
I almost decided not to paint the doors because the cup brush left a really niced brushed finish, but in the end, I went ahead and painted. You should try it, its super easy, cehap and works.
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Not knowing what the Invaders brushed looks like in person, I can offer you this: I had great luck with creating a brushed aluminum look for my H.T. using my belt sander and a fine grit paper following the length of the aluminum. Just go slow and gentle and she'll come (out) as you wish. For my purpose the belt sander alone was perfectly fine, leaving fine grooves and a nice look.
Thanks for the tip. I'm going to try brushing the aluminum by hand first. If it takes too long and doesn't give a deep enough scratch I will definitely be trying out the belt sander technique.
Took too long for me, but I had about 16ft of 2" wide aluminum stock to do :D
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Thanks for the tip. I'm going to try brushing the aluminum by hand first. If it takes too long and doesn't give a deep enough scratch I will definitely be trying out the belt sander technique.
If I might make an observation, even brushed aluminum will be a bit mundane in appearance for a marquee. Since you have little to lose at this point, you may want to try doing something known as "engine turning". There is a good discussion here (http://www.lonesomebuzzards.com/cgi-bin/forum/Blah.pl?m-1201274723/s-5/highlight-diameter/), showing methods and results of the process. It might look very nice if you did this only on one part or the other to provide some contrast between the two.
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Since you have little to lose at this point, you may want to try doing something known as "engine turning".
Curiously, I was recently looking at adhesive decal sheets of this on eBay for the RatRod project. The stuff was inexpensive and looked really good..
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Thanks for the tip. I'm going to try brushing the aluminum by hand first. If it takes too long and doesn't give a deep enough scratch I will definitely be trying out the belt sander technique.
If I might make an observation, even brushed aluminum will be a bit mundane in appearance for a marquee. Since you have little to lose at this point, you may want to try doing something known as "engine turning". There is a good discussion here (http://www.lonesomebuzzards.com/cgi-bin/forum/Blah.pl?m-1201274723/s-5/highlight-diameter/), showing methods and results of the process. It might look very nice if you did this only on one part or the other to provide some contrast between the two.
That sounds like a great option for the larger part of the marquee. I will have to keep it in mind.
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Delays, delays, delays. :banghead: I'm starting to see how some of these projects take so long to complete. I've decided to do the engine turning on the marquee. Just need to order in some parts for my die grinder to make the circles as big as I want them. Here's the pattern I'm going to use, circles are 3" in diameter. This was drawn up on 8.5" x 11" paper.
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Nephasth-
I have done a lot of hobby metal finishing. I would not attempt engine turning without a drill press which you likely have. Even then, it takes practice and you need a system to locate your turnings precisely both x and y or it will look "organic" rather than machined. I didn't follow RandyT's link but I learned from internet and youtube how to do it.
if you go with the straight brushed, again use a fence along one or both long edges of the marquee so that whatever you're making the scratches with stays absolutely straight and doesn't rotate. I have had really good results with the red scotchbrite pads/blocks on aluminum, with the pad double stick taped to a wood block that rides along the side fence.
Another finish that looks really good on bare metal is to take a flap sander disk on an angle grinder and make swirls/spirals in a random pattern. that was huge a few years ago but is now not seen everyday anymore. The good thing is if you try any/all of these and don't like them you can sand them right back out.
If I ever do a 4P cab it will have to be dual monitor like this or that corner arcade build-so awesome.
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I would love to do the engine turning in a drill press. Problem is, the marquee is too wide to achieve my desired pattern, it would hit the base of the press less than half way through (maybe, it's 12 3/4" wide, I have access to two drill presses, might luck out and one might be 6 1/2" or more out from the base). I'm going to pencil a grid onto the marquee to mark the centerlines for where the discs will meet the metal. I'll be using red scotchbrite roloc pads on my die grinder (or drill press if the marquee will fit). It's not exact, but like you said, if it doesn't turn out too well I'll be able to sand it out.
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Not to make the choices even harder, but if you go hit http://chemetalco.com/finishes.htm (http://chemetalco.com/finishes.htm) there are some truly amazing finishes available. The only down side is you have to buy a full sheet(4' x 8'). I have several customers who use them, if this is an option for what your doing, let me know the pattern you want and I can ask them if they have an off cut.javascript:void(0);
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Strike one. :angry: First drill press is only 5" from center of drill head to the base.
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what a pain. must be a benchtop model. any floor model will have 12" of swing (center of support post to center of drill, so 10" effective usable. 14" swing is common too. If you're near NC you can use mine. maybe engine turn the top and bottom then run a brushed stripe down the center of the backplate and letters? You can mask one finish from the other with frog tape or electrical tape.
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It was a benchtop press. The one at work is a floor press though, we'll see how that goes tonight...
Good news, the one at work is 7 1/2". I'll give the drill press technique a shot.
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I LOVE THOSE INVADERS! :o :o :o Where'd you get them?? Are they machined aluminum?
You mentioned the KLOV forums... I can't seem to find any mention of them there. Did I miss something in the thread?
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They're a composite aluminum (plastic sandwiched between two sheets of aluminum). Here's the thread (http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=163052). I had the same guy cut my marquee as well. VERY reasonable on his pricing.
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Got my control panels from my friend DMEN today. They turned out amazing! I thought I would go into a little detail as to how they came to be in this post.
Late November/early December I started playing around with button and joystick layouts. Space was a major issue for figuring out the layout, and is ultimately what determined having players 1 and 3 on one panel, and 2 and 4 on the other (which I think works out great). I took the top surface measurements of the existing CPs and cut out a paper template of the same size. After scouring google images for some layouts, I found one I thought I could work with. I printed and cut it out and started playing with different layouts. Here are a couple of my first layouts.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=163513)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=163515)
I ended up going with a kind of curved 7 button layout for players 1 and 2. The horizontal spacing is 35mm center to center. I got the "curve" from the natural placement of my fingers (and thumb for the 7th button) at the 35mm horizontal spacing. For players 3 and 4 I took part of the 7 button layout and rotated it 90 degrees. Once I was satisfied I transfered those measurements along with the dimensions of buttons and joysticks and layed it out in Photoshop.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=163517)
I had been talking with my friend DMEN about what I was doing and he offered to make duplicate CPs with my layouts at his work. To make sure they were as accurate as possible I made out some prints with all the dimensions in Visio and handed them over to DMEN.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=163532)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=163534)
Several weeks passed with DMEN being far too busy to get to these (which worked out for the better). He asked me if I could provide a .DXF file to make things easier by using the laser to cut the panels out. Luckily I had changed my mind to use U360 joysticks instead of the Mag Sticks. This changed the mounting holes for the sticks. I made the changes in the prints and it was as easy as just saving it as a .DXF in Visio. DMEN said it took all of 8 seconds for the laser to load up the .DXF and get ready to start the cuts. No adjustments were needed for the file on his end at all. After the laser cut out the panels and holes it was just a matter of getting them to a brake operator to make the bends. They came out looking BEAUTIFUL! I like the finish so much I think I'm going to powder coat these clear.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=163519)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=163521)
Here is one mounted to the cab. It's not 100% perfect, but it only requires a small adjustment to the wood and it will be ready to go.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=163523)
For the buttons I'll be using a combo of black and translucent IL buttons from Paradise Arcade Shop. I'll have to order twice as many buttons, but I think it will be worth it for the effect I'm going for. The outter part of the button will be translucent and the plunger will be black creating a "ring of light" effect around each active button. Here's a few pics with a test button installed in one of the panels. The first is with no light.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=163525)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=163527)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=163529)
What do you guys think so far?
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Looking good! That layout is nice. Perfect for 2 player and 4 player games.
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Those are really nice! When I first saw them, I thought, "sod playing street fighter against you," but then I remembered you have two control panels lol!
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The control panels are looking great. I love the lit rings on the buttons.
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Can I be DMEN's friend too? That panel is gorgeous. I think we have similar minds (AGAIN!), I just did the same thing with the clear buttons and sold centers...It's much more understated, which i think creates more visual drama.
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Thanks guys!
I think we have similar minds (AGAIN!), I just did the same thing with the clear buttons and sold centers...It's much more understated, which i think creates more visual drama.
Agreed. I think full translucent buttons with LEDs are a little to bright and distracting.
Seeing as how I don't have all my buttons, LEDs, or LED controllers yet, and me really wanting to see some of the different setups I'll be using, I had a little Photoshop fun.
"Populated" with LEDs off:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=163605)
Mortal Kombat
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=163607)
Neo Geo
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=163609)
TMNT right side
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=163611)
D&D
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=163613)
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I really dig the illuminated rings based on the game selection. What front end do you plan on using, and do you know which front ends support that feature? Thanks
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I will be using Hyperspin with LEDBlinky. I do not know about the other front ends, I'm sure the popular ones work with LEDBlinky as well. I fell in love with Hyperspin the moment I laid eyes on it. Seeing Hyperspin was one of the deciding factors for me to build a MAME rig. I have done VERY little research on any of the other front ends.
EDIT: Quick search on youtube found this to work with MALA as well.
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sweeeet ;D
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I really dig the illuminated rings based on the game selection. What front end do you plan on using, and do you know which front ends support that feature? Thanks
X2
Really really cool idea.
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Got my roloc pads and arbor in the mail today. I might go out and buy a couple of clamps to use as a fence on the drill press. I'm going to try to lay my grid on the marquee today and with a little luck I should have the whole thing finished this week.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=163681)
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Marquee Engine Turning Prep
In order for me to make this finish look as close as possible to a machined finish, I had to lay a grid on the marquee. Since the cutout portion of the marquee is not going to share the same finish as the background portion, I had to make an insert (in this case cardboard) for the cutout. This will allow me to more easily keep track of the grid and center every circle in the engine turning process.
Cardboard Insert
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=163695)
Taped to the back to get the front as close to flush as possible.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=163697)
After about an hour's worth of work the marquee has the grid laid down and is pretty much ready to go.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=163699)
I imagine it will take a few hours to apply the finish... 133 circles... :-\
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You've got the right tools. On the layout marks, consider making a mark on the fence that lines up with the center of the drill chuck, then indexing your grid lines to that. Your sanding will wipe out the marks out in the middle of the piece. Then, once you've done each long row, move the fence and workpiece over by the correct amount to match your layout in the other direction.
for consistency, use the drill press depth stop to bottom out the pad at a repeatable point. Count each time you drop the pad (one missisippi, etc). for repeatability. Use a test piece or the back to figure out the the depth and time.
End of unsolicited free advice . . . . :)
That engine turning will look great in no time.
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It never ceases to amaze me the lengths that people will go to for this hobby, myself included...Is your time this cheap Nephasth? What would the cost be to have this marquee re-cut in the appropriate material?
I hope this doesn't come off the wrong way, I love what you've done so far, I just know that feeling of trying to do something like you are doing with this marquee, and ALMOST every time I've found myself at the end (regardless of how good or bad it came out), wondering why I didn't just call Ghostbusters, instead of trying to build my own Proton Pack! One of my biggest shortcomings is thinking I can do everything myself. I usually can, but at what cost in time? Anyway, GOOD LUCK!!!
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I've decided against the fence. Even though it would save time, it would be too complicated to set up and I wouldn't be able to use it for the middle row (the drill press table is too shallow). Instead, I'm going to remove the pad from the arbor shank and bring it down to each center mark then clamp the marquee into place. This will increase the length of time significantly, but it should ensure accuracy. I'm going to start on it tonight, we'll see how it goes.
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It never ceases to amaze me the lengths that people will go to for this hobby, myself included...Is your time this cheap Nephasth? What would the cost be to have this marquee re-cut in the appropriate material?
I hope this doesn't come off the wrong way, I love what you've done so far, I just know that feeling of trying to do something like you are doing with this marquee, and ALMOST every time I've found myself at the end (regardless of how good or bad it came out), wondering why I didn't just call Ghostbusters, instead of trying to build my own Proton Pack! One of my biggest shortcomings is thinking I can do everything myself. I usually can, but at what cost in time? Anyway, GOOD LUCK!!!
I charge myself $Free.99/hr. ;D It would cost me double what I paid for the marquee and another month+ before I would get it. Also, now that I'm dead set on the engine turning, I wouldn't be able to get it from the same guy in the finish I want. I take no offense in your comments. I am naturally mechanically inclined and a very hands on person. I take a lot of pride in my work and would much rather look at anything I own knowing "Yeah, I did that." Also, let's say I have a lot of free time that would otherwise be felt like a waste if I wasn't doing something like this. ;)
Edit: This is about the equivalent of buying a hot rod vs. building a hot rod.
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I admire your tenacity in replicating the effect. I totally would have backed down to a laminate or vinyl product just from the hassle factor.
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Good on you. Nothing but respect. You've humbled me so far...I remember the first time I saw your thread, and I was like, "2-headed, Wha?!? This is gonna end in tears..." And now I'm like, "this one is gonna be an example thread!"
I'm not a god fearing man, but all of my prayers go out to you. Cant wait to see end the result!
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Many thanks for everone's positive and motivating comments!
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You've got the attitude of a builder and explorer which is the most important thing. Results will be good. I too would rather buy a $30 tool than pay $30 to hire someone. Hand aligned turning has its own look which you can see on old aircraft, hotrods, etc on pieces that were finished after the metal was shaped/curved. It's different but still good.
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Well that didn't go as planned at all. :banghead: :badmood: :hissy: :angry:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=163753)
Plan B: What gryhnd suggested. Vinyl overlay with not quite what I want, but it will have to do pattern.
Edit: Found a couple of finishes I like. Galvanized Silver (http://srx.main.ebayrtm.com/clk?RtmClk&u=1H4sIAAAAAAAAAC2QUWvCMBSF3wv9D4XhYzVJm9tG6IOrOAJz0FUdKwOJJtOgtSWNDvfrl9o9ne%2Bee899OE%2BrqwqWwgSEBRimlE4jGizLVUAQxr5nrtnR2vZrOpnsD3qsduI%2B3jf15EWcb%2BKif5UMS32%2BKRPm7zxfr8LciG8bbvjb52tYHpWy4UweVadvavuBikJbVVckRRAzzGhKSVHshVWHxtwrDJCQ3qhltdHqh7vbothac%2Bq0rNoYYTKuCUSD1wpTd5U4H5pRNC95PiKgbeeYP%2BjqaJ07puSZzx6yHmTB83KYF8N6%2Fh9v7MWFMHHY1o18MIpJxIBhxHq3fw%2BR74kmc90ILTOcMAyOdzJLEWOU%2BJ7WPacpAKEpRJBQFqOYui5PGUa%2B9wfP1%2BN8cgEAAA%3D%3D&ch=3&g=c72a88ca12c0a02682b23c62ffd08e14&i=56747056&aii=8088662586367594045&lid=809952&m=163459&pi=4012) and Engine Turn (http://srx.main.ebayrtm.com/clk?RtmClk&u=1H4sIAAAAAAAAAC2QUW%2BCMBSF3038DySLj9X2Qgs14cGhLk2UBAGXkSWmSqeNYxCoW%2Fz3FtnT%2Fe4599yH85LdlLOVrQPcIWxO6dylzjbNHMCEjEftLbwY03zOZ7PTWU%2FVUd6np7qapWKzX%2B3QKn4T8Qpl%2BS5G0U5EeYaiVn4ZtBfxxwalF6UMWpQX1elfdXjHSaKNqgrwsQ%2FUo9jHVjpJo851ey8IYz6AFaqy2Gv1J%2BxtkhxMe%2B10WTQeJjCtgLmD1si26gr5fa4n7jIV0QSYNp1l8aSbpTyyTOFVLJ4jH8ZaROmwrwd7%2BR%2BvzY8NEbDYVHX5ZOyByxknmPdq%2F56545GsQ1uO1GVIfE6Y5WMZBphzz5pa9xwEjAENmMt8yj3sUVvmtU89AFII5LdyAQAA&ch=3&g=c72a88ca12c0a02682b23c62ffd08e14&i=56747056&aii=8088662586367594045&lid=809943&m=163459&pi=4012). Couldn't decide so I ordered both... which was still less money than I spent on supplies for my failed engine turning attempt. Wise one are you VanillaGorilla.
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Use these for your ebay search terms, then filter by Buy It Now and "lowest to highest" for the price.
vinyl engine turn -tape
this returned a lot of decent looking stuff.
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Aw man. Least you gave it a good try!
This is quickly becoming my motto: If at first you don't succeed, pay somebody else!
Memories I could live without: I have a pile of old ball mice and hard drive spindles in a box somewhere from trying to build my own spinners!! :cheers:
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If you can laser cut those panels, can you laser etch them as well? Or is that a completely different beast?
Laser etched artwork could look great on those panels!
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If you can laser cut those panels, can you laser etch them as well? Or is that a completely different beast?
Laser etched artwork could look great on those panels!
These are composite. There is plastic in between two layers of metal. Some of the plastic actually started melting while I had it on the drill press. The actual metal thickness is like 1/32" to 1/16". I think they were originally cut with a CNC router.
I think the plastic is what was giving me problems, when it heated up it wasn't providing enough firm support for the metal above allowing it to give just enough to cause "bare" spots in the circles.
After sleeping on it, I think I'm going to do the whole marquee (letters and background) in the galvanized silver. We'll see how it reflects light when it gets here. I just don't want something too shiny.
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Was that a layer of white protective plastic over the face of the metal? It would be impossible to engine turn with that in place.
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No, that was the metal. Just a ---smurfy--- pic.
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Got the marquee lookin' better.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=164308)
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nice.
it looks kinda like pearloid, like a guitar pickgaurd.
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Very nice!
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These are composite. There is plastic in between two layers of metal. Some of the plastic actually started melting while I had it on the drill press. The actual metal thickness is like 1/32" to 1/16". I think they were originally cut with a CNC router.
I think the plastic is what was giving me problems, when it heated up it wasn't providing enough firm support for the metal above allowing it to give just enough to cause "bare" spots in the circles.
After sleeping on it, I think I'm going to do the whole marquee (letters and background) in the galvanized silver. We'll see how it reflects light when it gets here. I just don't want something too shiny.
The vinyl looks pretty decent, but I have to ask about the engine turning attempt. It looks more like it was polishing the metal (machinists often use scotchbrite for this) rather than grinding it. Did you remember to soak it with some WD-40, or some kind of lubricant / coolant during your attempt? That was a pretty important part of the process. If not, that resulting heat is likely what caused your plastic to start melting. Then again, just the fact that the substrate was a laminate to begin with (it wasn't mentioned originally) might have doomed it from the start. Glad to see you found another workable strategy!
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Did you remember to soak it with some WD-40, or some kind of lubricant / coolant during your attempt?
Yes, the roloc and the surface were both lubricated while trying to engine turn. After thinking about it for a while, 3" circles may have be too big for that type of finish. The engine turning I had read about used 1/2" and 1" circles. Even though I didn't achieve what I originally set out to do, I'm very pleased with how the marquee looks now. It catches light very well. I might even use a strip of that same vinyl to go behind the invaders.
Now, on to my progress! I was finally able to order the rest of the buttons for the two joystick panels. I love the way these buttons have turned out, but man are they expensive. I have to order twice as many buttons as I need and with the RGBs an order of 50 buttons (to make 25 of these) is over $150. To mod all these buttons to what I consider ready to use took me around 6-7 hours total spread across a few days. You can see the first steps of modding the buttons for the RGBs in one of my earlier posts.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=164789)
Here's one after the wires were hot glued around the holes to prevent any stress on the RGB board connections (thanks for the tip VanillaGorilla).
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=164791)
I cut the wires to my desired length (2.5" from the base of the button) and stripped the ends for the terminal pins.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=164793)
With terminal pins crimped to the wire ends.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=164795)
With the terminal pins installed into a male Molex 4 pin connector. These connectors will allow me to remove a button from my panels without cutting the RGB harness or having to pull terminal pins out of another connector (unlikely I will ever have to pull just a single button, but you never know and I don't want to hack up a harness later).
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=164797)
Here you can see that a microswitch can still be removed and installed without the pigtail harness getting in the way.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=164799)
20 buttons are finished. I'm still waiting on more connectors to arrive to finish the last six. You can also see the new player buttons I got, they turned out better than expected with the translucent button bodies.
For anyone wanting to know (and for easy future reference for myself) the Molex part numbers are:
Male Connector - 0430250400
Female Connector - 0430200401
Pins for Male Connector - 0430300001
Pins for Female Connector - 0430310001
The part number for the die set that I used (die sets easily swap out in the jaws of the orange crimpers) that crimps the terminal pins is HT-236-2C4-DIE (not a Molex number).
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As Butt-head once said to Beavis, this project is cooler than anything that has ever been cool before.
Not even finished yet, and it's already awesome. Great job. :applaud:
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Looking good. Personally I'm not a fan of dead buttons on a control panel. Instead of having them unlit, can you light up two buttons the same color for the same input.
For example, I've got a cabinet with the SF2 6 button layout:
123
456
When I configure a 3-button game, I'll change the inputs to:
123
123
I think since you're color coding everything, you could make it look nice.
Yes, that could easily be done. But there are two main reasons I will be having some buttons unlit during game play. The first is to mimmick as close as possible the original dedicated button layouts and colors for whatever game is selected. The second is to make it easy for guests playing this machine. They will know that if a button is lit, they can use it. It would be strange and confusing to have 7 buttons lit up for a game like TMNT or The Simpsons. Also, I don't want players 3 and 4 lit up during two player games.
As Butt-head once said to Beavis, this project is cooler than anything that has ever been cool before.
Not even finished yet, and it's already awesome. Great job. :applaud:
Thank you, thank you. Just wish I had the $$$ to finish this quick. But the down time lets me think out the details. :)
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Man, I love those molex connectors. That crimping had to have been punishing, but the results look great. Are you chaining all of the white wires together on the female side, or are you running a bunch of leads to a terminal block? ? Did you order directly from Molex, or use somewhere like digi-key? Cant wait to see the finished product!
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Hot damn those buttons look nice! Love the molex connectors!
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Man, I love those molex connectors. That crimping had to have been punishing, but the results look great. Are you chaining all of the white wires together on the female side, or are you running a bunch of leads to a terminal block? ? Did you order directly from Molex, or use somewhere like digi-key? Cant wait to see the finished product!
80 crimps so far, wasn't too bad, the crimpers lock in place in steps. For the majority of the button RGBs (21 to be exact) I will be using a PACLED64 which has a + terminal in each of its banks of 4. So for the RGBs wired to the PACLED64, they will each have a dedicated + wire.
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While we're on the subject of connectors... I made a little more progress these past couple days. I made 3 VGA "breakout" cables. Compared to wiring up the pigtail harnesses for the buttons, these were little MFers. Lots of insulation, shielded wires, and tiny wires that break easily. Another thing to note, there is no such thing as standardization when it comes to VGA cables. I easily have 4+ hours into these things (I had to redo 2 of them). Great little project if you have a lot of spare time on your hands like I do, but if you need one quick you might want to save yourself some trouble and buy one from Ultimarc. The connectors I used connect directly onto Wells Gardner video input headers and they also fit on a 19" Vision Pro that I have. I still need to buy a VGA Y-cable to put up the same image on both monitors. Good news is they work, I get the Windows loading screen on my arcade monitors. I don't get anything after that though. I might have old ATI drivers still hanging around on the computer or it might just be a simple resolution issue, haven't had time to take a good look at it yet. The third cable is for DMEN's project once it gets off the ground.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=164870)
Molex numbers for you DIYers:
Connector - 0009507101
Pins - 0008500105
I used the crimper dies that originally came in my crimpers, not the ones I used for the button pigtails (these are much bigger pins).
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All hail the master of molex. :cheers:
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This is an amazing project. It blows my cab out of the water. Though I am very happy with my new cab, this completely brings out a bit of jealousy :) . Almost makes me wish I were less lazy!
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Thanks guys. :)
IT CAN SEE!
I finally found some time to look into the display issue. It was what I suspected. There were some old ATI drivers hanging around. I used the utility found on Ultimarc's ArcadeVGA Installation page to remove all ATI drivers. Reinstalled the drivers for the ArcadeVGA and now I have Windows display on an arcade monitor. What a relief. :)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=165324)
However, I have now ran into some Hyperspin issues that I'll have to figure out. Also the image isn't stable on the screen. It's somewhat of a throb in the display that is more noticeable around the top and bottom. I've adjusted the V Hold and H Hold along with some other pots with no luck taming the throbbing. I didn't have this issue running straight off and arcade pcb, and I still have the issue with all the VGA cables I have. I have a nice bright picture (after turning up the contrast and brightness), so I don't think the monitors NEED a video amplifier. Does anyone happen to know if an amplifier will take care of the issue, or if the remedy is something else? If I can't figure it out over the next few days I'll try getting a hold of Andy.
I don't have my U360s yet (they're still a ways out financially), but I will be putting this together enough to be playable with some joysticks I have laying around. I need to get this up and running for some testing. Can't wait.
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One thing I haven't posted about yet is my testing CP. It has been great for setting up HS and MAME away from the cabinet (and playing on other computers with an external hard drive). I threw it together with spare parts I had laying around the garage. The box is a plastic drawer the previous residents left behind. I have used both an I-PAC2 and a LONO in this. It is much nicer sitting at a desk with a keyboard to test, rather than standing at my cab that doesn't have a keyboard tray.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=166271)
This was the original set up. I didn't have many extra buttons or switches at the time, so for a while I was only able to test 3 button games. In this pic it has the I-PAC2 installed.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=166273)
This is how it is currently configured. The layout matches exactly how players 1 and 2 are layed out in the cabinet CPs. The buttons are fairly close to the joystick due the small size of the cabinet CPs, but it is still fairly comfortable to play (I am really loving the "ergonomic" 7 button layout). The buttons are the spare parts I had from my order to make the buttons for the cabinet CPs. In this pic it has the LONO installed. I was able to reuse two of mounting holes I had used for the I-PAC2.
After trying out the LONO in this, I'm really wanting to build 4 "fight sticks" to use with a HTPC in my living room. One of the sticks would be the master which would connect to the HTPC via USB and the slave sticks would connect to the master via harnesses with molex connectors. But I really should focus on one project at a time. :)
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Nice job brown noser!
haha.
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:lol
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I think you should go for "as ghetto as possible" for a theme. Maybe a bucket CP, or a catbox CP. Perhaps a lego CP (actually that sounds kind of cool..)
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Well, it has been a while since I've had a chance to do some actual work on this thing. I got married and just recently got back from my honeymoon (why the hell is it called that?). Now with all the busy life stuff out of the way (and before I get to work on makin' babies), work can resume on the beast. Some of the "behind the scenes" stuff that has been going on was gutting the cabinet of unnecessary parts. The original control panels have been removed, the buttons and Atari logo joysticks were sold to help fund the project (got more out of those than I paid for the whole machine). Also removed the JAMMA harness from the cab.
Today I installed my speakers into the topper. To make things easier (wanted to avoid working on a ladder), I removed the topper from the cabinet.
Here's a shot of preparing to remove the topper. Removed speaker grills, speakers, marquee, and marquee light.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=167808)
Topper removed and on the floor to work on. It was much lighter than I anticipated.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=167810)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=167812)
Drilled two holes into each speaker base to mount inside of the topper.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=167814)
Speakers installed. View through marquee opening.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=167816)
View from inside.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=167818)
View from front through speaker opening.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=167820)
I then reinstalled the speaker grills and mirror and remounted the topper onto the cab. It is held on with four 1/4" bolts that go up through the bottom of the topper.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=167822)
Shot of wiring routing (unsecured for now).
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=167824)
Marquee reinstalled. Love the stock look with the speaker grills, can't even tell computer speakers are behind them.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=167826)
Still shooting for the goal of getting the machine mostly functional. Down the road I will remove the topper again to do a little body repair and refinishing. The topper only takes about 5 minutes to remove (including disconnecting wiring). I won't have to remove the topper to install the marquee lighting, it will mount directly to the back side of the marquee.
I also started tackling the issue of my custom CPs not fitting quite right. This was caused by a combination of my measurement taking of the old CPs and the fact that metal stretches when you bend it (thus making my panels a little longer than the originals). Here you can see how the CP does not sit down all the way on the CP mounting brackets.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=167828)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=167830)
I loosened the right side CP box and found the CP to sit down fully with the box pulled out about an 1/8th of an inch. I placed large washers between the CP box and the cab and tightened it up, but the box wasn't completely stable. I've decided to use the old marquee plexi as the spacers for the CP boxes. This will provide a solid mount for the boxes. Here you can see the gap. The gap will be mostly hidden with new t-molding.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=167832)
Now the CP sits completely down on the brackets and the mounting holes line up perfectly. I will have to cut the corners off the right mounting brackets in both CP boxes to accommodate the right most buttons. I will also have to modify the left joystick bases a little to fit next to the left side brackets.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=167834)
That's it for now. Next up I will be getting the CPs and coin doors powder coated and installing the controls in the CPs once that is done. Inching my way closer towards functionality.
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Glad to see this thread revived!!! While MAME will indeed be awesome in here, it would also be totally sweet to get 2 Cadash boards and play some 4-player "networked" Cadash!
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Now with all the busy life stuff out of the way (and before I get to work on makin' babies)
Congratulations on the nuptuals and some advice from a father of two (oh, and married as well) . . . . .
Complete the cab before makin' the babies. Ask how I know. :cheers:
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That is an amazing cabinet!
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I love this project. Are both screens just clones of each other?
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Glad to see this thread revived!!!
Congratulations on the nuptuals and some advice from a father of two (oh, and married as well) . . . . .
Complete the cab before makin' the babies. Ask how I know. :cheers:
That is an amazing cabinet!
I love this project.
Many thanks! :cheers:
Are both screens just clones of each other?
Yes. Players on both sides will see the same image. On the plus side, both players in 2 player games will have their own monitor and won't be knocking each other's elbows. Another cool thing is you can look your opponent in the eye in the mirror under the marquee. What I will miss though (aside from the games I had running in the cabinet before) is the "mirrored view" from one screen to the other. In Run N Gun one screen would have a view from one end of the court, and the other screen would view the court from the opposite end. I wish MAME could emulate this.
While MAME will indeed be awesome in here, it would also be totally sweet to get 2 Cadash boards and play some 4-player "networked" Cadash!
I've never played Cadash before, I'll have to give it a try. Is Cadash not playable with 4 players in MAME?
I'm still waiting for a few more things to come together before getting the powder coating done. But I did buy some black poster board the other day. I will be making some new monitor bezels to replace the faded and stickered ones that are in there now. Should have those done before the end of the week.
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I want to build a 2 player bartop arcade in the near future. This cab is giving me ideas of a possible back to back bartop configuration with a screen on each side or two separate bartops that can plug into one another.
Thanks for the ideas! Can't wait to see how it comes out.
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I want to build a 2 player bartop arcade in the near future. This cab is giving me ideas of two separate bartops that can plug into one another.
Love that idea! This (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280443825920&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT) is what I used to split my video to both monitors.
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Managed to sneek in just enough project time today to make one of the new monitor bezels. Seems like everytime I work on this I'm being rushed. :P
Took the left bezel out of the machine and flattened it out. I taped it face down onto my poster board so it wouldn't move while cutting the new one out. After cutting trough some of the tape, I retaped the old bezel back down. Only tools needed for this were an exacto-knife and a cutting mat.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=168445)
The new bezel cut out.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=168447)
I used a steel ruler to measure the scores for the folds and also as a cutting guide for the scores. Made the folds where needed and glued the tab in place. After about an hour's worth of work here's the end result:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=168449)
I'm going to try to make some time to make the other one before the week is over. But I've got quite a lot on my plate now after a recent road trip. On Monday I picked up 2 skeeball machines, an Operation Wolf that doesn't operate, and a Megatouch. Now my garage is pretty crammed.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=168441)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=168443)
Creepin' along...
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The new games in my garage have been distracting me from working on this project. The Megatouch needed a serious cleaning, and now it's hard for me and the kids to stop playing it. :laugh: Tinkered with the Operation Wolf and after swapping out the power supply the game plays, but there is no sound or recoil, and the monitor is so fuzzy hits don't register when you pull the trigger, but your ammo does deplete. I think the monitor may need a flyback. This might have to go into storage for a long while until I can get the more important projects finished. All this has kept me from making the second monitor bezel.
However, progress has still been made. I've got 2 Sanwa JLWs on the way for player positions 3 and 4, also hardware and electrical connectors for the controls. Sometime soon (I hope), I will be able to order the U360s for player positions 1 and 2, and the CPs will be able to be fully assembled. I may not end up powder coating the CPs, I originally wanted them powder coated clear, but I think that may give them too much of a glossy finish. I just finished up drawing out the routing for the control wiring to have something to go by when it's time to wire these up. I've also made a crude pinout table for the CP connectors for easy harness assembly and any future troubleshooting I may have to do. There will be 4 connectors for each panel (remember, eventually these will be swappable). One for the control switches, and 3 for the RGB LEDs. I've attached the pinout sheet for those interested (pinout for players 2 and 4 are the same as players 1 and 3 respectively).
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The JLWs arrived yesterday. I must say, they are very nice. One slight problem though. It wasn't until after I gave my friend the .dxf file to cut the CPs that I decided to go with U360s instead of MagSticks. The mounting hole pattern did not line up with the JLWs (and won't when the U360s arrive). Here I have the holes marked on the bases of the JLWs.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=169229)
I don't own a dremmel, but I do have a few different air die grinders and a wide selection of carbide burr bits. The burr bits and high rpms made short work of making new mounting holes in the JLW bases. It's not very pretty, but it serves its purpose.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=169233)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=169231)
Although the JLWs are for positions 3 and 4, I mounted them to one panel to see how the CPs will look when I finally get my U360s. I've got 4 black ball tops and 4 smoke bubble ball tops. Haven't decided yet, but I'm leaning towards going with the smoke bubble ball tops. I'll have to see how they look with the buttons installed. What do you think?
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=169235)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=169237)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=169239)
-Side Track-
On the 4th I thought I'd throw together one of the skeeball machines. Took a little while to do by myself, but a floor jack made things a little easier. I bought both as "non working, but complete" units and was told this one needed a ball release solenoid. While putting it together, I replaced missing bulbs, and used the best easily removable parts from both machines (like switches and junk). Once together, I plugged it in and it lit up ready to go. Dropped a quarter in the coin slot and didn't hear it travel through the coin mech all the way. Pulled the mech out and hit the reject lever. Three coins dropped out, the one jamming the mech was 50 centavos from Honduras. Put the mech back in, dropped in a quarter, and BAM! the balls rolled down and she was set for a new game. Every now and again the ball release has trouble, but most of the time it works fine. Playing this really brings back childhood memories. Both my parents and my kids love playing this thing. If thatpurplestuff ever decides to release his software from his skeeball project, I'll probably convert my other machine to run it (wishful thinking, but it would be SWEET). Would be awesome to have an original set up next to one that is so versatile.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=169241)
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I prefer the smoke
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I agree, smoke....
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Finished populating out the left CP this morning to get a better idea of what ball tops to go with. I'm still very undecided.
Black Ball Tops
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=169257)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=169259)
Smoke Bubble Ball Tops
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=169261)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=169263)
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Smoke! Although the black looks great too :)
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Use the black and send the smoke ones to me. . . you don't need them. . . they are awful.
In all seriousness, the clear button surrounds take on a gray/smoke cast from the black plungers when unlit, this makes me like the smokes. Of course, the plungers are black. Can't go wrong on this one.
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Smoke! Although the black looks great too :)
In all seriousness, the clear button surrounds take on a gray/smoke cast from the black plungers when unlit, this makes me like the smokes. Of course, the plungers are black. Can't go wrong on this one.
This is exactly why it is hard to make a decision on this. Smoke will most likely be what I go with, won't know for sure for a while though. And I do have some pins reserved in my harness connectors for lit joysticks... ;)
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While it's a hard decision and other people's input is great, the decision is ultimately yours as it's your project. So long as you're happy, we are too!
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Well crap! Got keen to the idea of all smoke ball tops and went to check out the other two and this one has some deep surface scratches (top arrow) and a crack that goes in towards the center of the ball (bottom arrow). Guess I'll have to get another when I place my next order.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=169286)
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How the heck did that happen?
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How the heck did that happen?
Don't know. But these were packaged in with the JLWs, maybe the box was dropped and the mount of a joystick hit it hard. Hard to say for sure. The other ball top that was in the same bag as that one has a light surface scratch that I'll be able to live with. But the two that are on the panel are just fine.
-Edited for spelling.
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I can't remember if you got those from us, just let me know when you order again, we'll take care of it.
That looks more like a molding defect to me, but it's hard to tell. The Chinese imitation balls look like that from time to time and we end up tossing a bunch out.
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Thanks. I'll mention it when I place the order I've been arranging with Susan this weekend. :cheers:
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Got the replacement smoke bubble balltop with my order of parts to do my MK fight stick button mod (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=113154.0) as well as the quick disconnects that are found on the Lono's harnesses. Thanks again Bryan and Susan! :applaud:
Finding the right quick disconnect terminals had been holding me up from wiring the CPs. Now that I have them, I've been able to start that process. I made the harnesses for the controls of each CP. Each harness is 22" long (figured it would be easiest to cut all the wires the same length and then cut to length when I install the harnesses on the CPs) and has a 24 pin Micro-fit Molex connector on one end. The other end of these harnesses will have the quick disconnect terminals installed. Only 20 of the 24 pins of the connectors are used on these harnesses, but their mating harnesses will use all 24 pins. Since I am using U360s for my main panels, they do not require wires ran to my Lono. But future swappable panels will be able to have switch type joysticks for players 1 and 2 since those pins are reserved and wired to the Lono.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=170612)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=170610)
After these are installed, I'll be making the remaining 6 harnesses for the CP RGB LEDs.
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:applaud:
i need to learn me how to make some them harnesses
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:applaud:
i need to learn me how to make some them harnesses
Thanks man. Post #69 has pics of the process and tools, as well as part numbers for some connectors, pins, and the all important dies for crimping the pins. Pretty easy, just tedious when doing it to so many wires.
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Yeah, that's why I like the LONO, I HATE crimping wires.....
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I'm somewhat of a masochist.
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I'm somewhat of a masochist.
Yes, yes you are, O' Master of Molex. I love black on black color schemes for everything except a bunch of wires bundled together :dizzy:
Almost as bad as me putting the black labels on the black buttons on the black cp.
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Took some time this morning to install one of the harnesses into the player 1 & 3 panel. I'll probably get around to doing the player 2 & 4 panel on Friday. Here's a few shots. The long wire just hanging out is the earth ground and will be connected to one of the mounting bolts on the JLW.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=170624)
A close up.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=170626)
This shot shows the panel stood up on the CP box and where these harnesses will mate with the cabinet harnesses to make for easy panel swaps.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=170628)
After the other harness is installed, I'll only have 104 more wires to turn into harnesses and 208 more tiny crimps. And that's just for the CPs. :dizzy:
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Got the control harness installed in the player 2 & 4 panel. Also made up all the harnesses for the CP RGB LEDs. It feels like I've been wiring forever, but it's actually been about 7 hours total for making all the harnesses and installing the control harnesses in the CPs. I can almost see the light at the end of the CP wiring tunnel, but I know there's another long cabinet wiring tunnel up ahead...
Home base work station with both control harnesses installed. I had the towels down to keep from scratching my smoke bubble ball tops.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=170699)
RGB LED harnesses. Top harnesses have 22 pin connectors and are 20" long, middle have 20 pin connectors and are 17" long, and the bottom have 18 pin connectors with 8 pins left open in case I light my joysticks down the road and are also 17" long. Mmmm... black on black on black... :drool
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=170701)
Part numbers:
24 Pin Connectors
Male - 0430252400
Female - 0430202401
22 Pin Connectors
Male - 0430252200
Female - 0430202201
20 Pin Connectors
Male - 0430252000
Female - 0430202001
18 Pin Connectors
Male - 0430251800
Female - 0430201801
Pins
For Male Connectors - 0430300001
For Female Connectors - 0430310001
I'm sure you're all getting tired of looking at this wiring. Just about done with the CP wiring. Then I will acquire a piece of lexan that will be mounted on the inside of the center strip of the cabinet with stand offs. I will use it to mount all my planned and future controls and lighting interface boards to. Once that's in, it will be time to install the Lono into the cabinet and run the cabinet control harnesses. Stepping ever closer to being playable. Still waiting for cash to fall in my lap so I can finally order the U360s. :P
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Your wiring harnesses are very tidy. Looking forward to seeing it finished!
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... I had the towels down to keep from scratching my smoke bubble ball tops....
Now that's a real arcade man. If not, you would have said "I have a towel down to protect the dining room table from my metal CP's" :laugh2:
Seriously, you better put some key pins or something in all those black connectors.
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Your wiring harnesses are very tidy. Looking forward to seeing it finished!
Thank you. I'm just looking forward to progress right now. So many plans for this the finish seems almost unreachable, but I promise it won't take as long as Mission Control.
Now that's a real arcade man. If not, you would have said "I have a towel down to protect the dining room table from my metal CP's" :laugh2:
:afro:
Seriously, you better put some key pins or something in all those black connectors.
Won't have to key the connectors. All the 4 pin connectors for the RGB LEDs will be cut to length. There will be 4 "big" connecters per CP/side, and they're all different sizes from each other. Each side will have a 24 pin, 22, pin, 20 pin, and 18 pin connector, and they are unable to mate with connectors of different sizes.
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Wow, thats neat cabling there dude. Mine looks like a spiders web with spaghetti thrown on top.
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Looks great, but I can't say I agree on the choice of having the dust washers UNDER the panel. The stick holes' edges look mighty sharp, and you don't want to start bleeding all over your panel, do you? :blah: But seriously, isn't it generally a rule to put washers on top for metal panels, and under for wood?
The wiring looks like what you'd expect from a factory made arcade panel. :applaud:
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But seriously, isn't it generally a rule to put washers on top for metal panels, and under for wood?
I thought it was the opposite. Wouldn't a dust washer placed under a 3/4" panel create a 3/4" deep dust trap? As for the metal edge, it's laser cut and not sharp at all. Also, one reason I placed the dust washers under the panel is that I don't want the dust washer to create a scuff ring on the top surface.
The wiring looks like what you'd expect from a factory made arcade panel. :applaud:
Wow, thats neat cabling there dude. Mine looks like a spiders web with spaghetti thrown on top.
Thanks guys, I'm kind of a wire nut. :lol
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so this is what you look like in real life?!!?!?!?! :dizzy:
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You caught the pun. :cheers:
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I'm out of town for company business and brought my CPs with to work on in my hotel room. Got the player 1 and 3 panel 99% finished on wiring (all that is left is to find the ring terminals I'm looking for and hook up the earth ground). Turned out pretty good, just wish I had a couple extra hours tonight to finish the player 2 and 4 panel.
RGB harnesses completed. Player 1 on the right. And player 3 on the left.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=170940)
All wiring harnesses installed in the CP. Earth ground hanging over the top (for now).
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=170942)
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Got the player 2 & 4 panel wiring finished up this morning. Also tested all the RGB LEDs in both panels and found all to be functioning properly. A huge relief considering all different connection points that could have failed, I'm glad I took my time.
After my last haul with the two skeeball machines, Operation Wolf, and Megatouch, the Two-Headed Beast has been half buried in the garage making it impossible to do any real work on. I got rid of the Operation Wolf, set up the second skeeball machine, and rearranged the games in garage to make the Two-Headed Beast easily accessable. I realized that most of my progress pics have just been of the small parts and it's been a while since the whole machine has been pictured. Here she is in her current state (the curvature of the cab is due to this being a panoramic shot).
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=171281)
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Rearranging the garage does not constitute a satisfying update. Get thee to work. >:D
good move getting two skee ball machines, don't have to share! :cheers:
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Rearranging the garage does not constitute a satisfying update. Get thee to work. >:D
You're right, and between that kick in the pants and easy access to the beast, there is now a breath of life in her!
I got a smart strip a while back and it's been needing to get installed. The cabinet's original power cord was just spliced to a lead with a Molex connector just inside the cabinet. The outlet plug was a screw type. I separated the splice, and removed the power cord. I removed the outlet plug from the power cord and installed it on the lead with the Molex connector.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=171318)
Found a perfect spot for the smart strip and mounted it. Routed the smart strip's cord out the hole in the cabinet and secured it with the cable clamps that originally secured the original power cord. Plugged in the power lead from the old power supply that still powers the isolation transformers for the monitors into one of the slave outlets.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=171316)
Finally installed the second VGA breakout harness for the second monitor and the VGA splitter. Hooked up power to the master outlet of the smart strip, and video, sound, power, keyboard, mouse, and external hard drive to the computer outside of the cabinet. Turned on the computer, and the smart strip worked perfectly, powering up the monitors once the computer started up. It has been a while since I've had a computer hooked up to this. Last time the monitor had an annoying throb that I couldn't figure out what the cause was. Someone else had posted a similar problem in the monitor forum, and Malenko (I believe) asked him if the problem was still there with the resolution at 320x240. I thought I'd give it a shot, and low and behold, NO MORE THROBBING! The second monitor needed some adjustments as expected. However, the vertical position pot doesn't seem to be doing anything and I will have to look into that later. Fired up Hyperspin and MAME, and everything is working GREAT! Windows sucks to navigate in 320x240, but Hyperspin and MAME look just fine. Tested things out with my testing CP (the ghetto one), as the Lono is still installed in that. Need to add the finishing touches to the computer and mount it inside the cab, install my interface panel(s) followed by the Lono, make the cabinet control harnesses, get my U360s, and finish the coin doors. So close I can taste it!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=171314)
Better Jimmy?
Edit: Oh yeah, and today was the first time I had the speakers hooked up, and they're working great.
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Its looking real good.
I love that you brought the panels on the road with you in order to get work done on them. Now thats dedication. :applaud:
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Better Jimmy?
:laugh2: See, you were holding out on us! of course, now that you're playable, no more updates for a month I predict.
<goes to see about finally pinching off another switchcade update besides "still painting">
Great work, sweet rig.
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Got a package from the UK today! After months of waiting to buy my U360s, I finally bit the bullet. In the process also decided since I was going, I might as well go all out, and bought a couple of PACLED64s as well. I was originally going to hold off on the PACLED64s (or some other form of LED controller) for a long while, but it just didn't feel right to have those pretty LEDs sitting under the CP and not being able to light up. When I ordered the 2 U360s, I also ordered 4 octagonal restrictor kits and 4 hard springs. I put the extras in my Sanwa JLWs. The JLWs are AWESOME with the hard springs and octagonal restrictors. The other vendors really should offer the octagonal restrictors, $14 is a little steep just for a restrictor plate from Ultimarc (they come with the hardware to be fitted on the U360s, but none of it is used when mounting the restrictor to a JLW). The JLWs feel like completely different, and much better sticks with these and the harder springs installed.
The JLWs with the new restrictor plates and springs. No need to remove the sticks from the panels to install the new parts.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=172450)
To install the restrictor kits in the U360s, I used a small (very, very small) pair of channel lock pliers to thread the aluminum stand offs all the way into the joystick. Doing this marred the stand offs, but was easily smoothed out with some scotch-brite. Either the holes, or the stand offs weren't perfectly straight, and the holes in the U360's pcb did not line up exactly and I had to file the holes of the pcbs just a little bit larger to get them to fit. Here are the U360s with their new restrictor kits and harder springs.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=172452)
For those who don't know... Although the U360s are basically enhanced JLWs, there are some differences. The most noticeable are the shaft diameters. The shaft diameter of the JLWs is 9mm. The diameter of the U360 shafts is 10mm. Not a major difference, but you can definitely see it when they are side by side. The JLWs feel like they have a larger range of motion as well, which I believe is due to the difference in shaft diameters.
Now that I have the PACLED64s, I will be able to mount those at the same time as the Lono to the interface panel, which will make wiring the cabinet a little faster and easier. Ultimarc states that the PACLED64 comes with two 48 pin connector housings, but each of mine came with four 24 pin housings, luckily I have plenty of those. ;) Ultimarc's connectors on the right, mine on the left.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=172454)
Yesterday a co-worker gave me an old ass computer he was going to throw away. I snagged quite a few good parts out of it. I might try using the power supply for the computer. We'll see, it's 160W. I also cannibalized the case for the mobo tray and some other metal. I was planning on using a cased computer inside, but now that I have these free parts, it's a different story. Here was the original black heart of the beast.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=172456)
The case parts I repurposed. These will be painted black.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=172458)
Hard drive mounting bracket I cut out of the top left piece of the previous pic.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=172460)
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Nice work as always! Andy may have made custom shafts, but the bat top JLW's are a different size shaft than the ball tops.... However the threading is also different. Just at thought, is the threading on the U360 6mm?
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Nice work as always! Andy may have made custom shafts, but the bat top JLW's are a different size shaft than the ball tops.... However the threading is also different. Just at thought, is the threading on the U360 6mm?
I got some balltops with 6mm threading to fit onto my U360's. Mine originally had balltops on them though. Pretty sure if it has bat tops then the threading is different.
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Just at thought, is the threading on the U360 6mm?
I guess you can call it 6mm, I'm getting 5.7mm on the calipers. There appears to be a major difference in the shaft size on the U360s between the bat top shafts and ball top shafts on the site. I ordered mine with ball top, to fit those sweet smoke bubble ball tops onto them! :cheers:
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Finished modding the bases of the U360s this morning. The cutout is where the panel mounting bracket is inside the CP box. Close quarters. :o I will be cutting my carriage bolts to length tonight. Even though it doesn't matter on the U360s since there are no switches, I want them to be the same length as the bolts on the JLWs. I'll finally have the CPs all put together tomorrow morning!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=172847)
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Modded the hardware last night and was finally able to get around to installing the U360s. They look great with the JLWs and the range of motion of each feels a lot closer with both sticks installed. The differences in shaft dimensions aren't as noticeable with them installed either. Very happy with these so far. Hopefully my buddy comes through with the lexan panels for the interfaces this week so I can get to the cab wiring, but that might have to wait until after I finish the 108 harnesses for those 7" monitors that the MiniBeast uses. :-\
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=172941)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=172943)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=172945)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=172947)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=172949)
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:applaud: Very, very slick looking! Those smoke balltops are awesome on there!
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it needs a little something . . . HMM.
HOW about SOME LED LIGHTING!
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:applaud: Very, very slick looking! Those smoke balltops are awesome on there!
Many thanks!
it needs a little something . . . HMM.
HOW about SOME LED LIGHTING!
Man, there's just no pleasing this guy, is there? Always crackin' the whip! :lol
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The metal CP's look great. I see the tie in with the brushed marquee finish - nice touch.
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Absolutely love this project... I have been wanting to something exactly like this for about 5 years. I fell in love with configuration in college when the local arcade held Street Fighter Tourneys on cyberball cabinet.
Plus the LED work is something I love but I know I don't have the patience for that level of detail.
I started a MAME project 7 years ago and never finished... I think you have inspired me to get my --I'm attempting to get by the auto-censor and should be beaten after I re-read the rules-- in gear!
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The metal CP's look great. I see the tie in with the brushed marquee finish - nice touch.
Thanks, I'm still upset the engine turning didn't work out...
Absolutely love this project... I have been wanting to something exactly like this for about 5 years. I fell in love with configuration in college when the local arcade held Street Fighter Tourneys on cyberball cabinet.
Plus the LED work is something I love but I know I don't have the patience for that level of detail.
I started a MAME project 7 years ago and never finished... I think you have inspired me to get my --I'm attempting to get by the auto-censor and should be beaten after I re-read the rules-- in gear!
There are many different options for going the LED route, and nearly all of them are easier/cheaper than the route I took. I'm glad I was able to provide a little inspiration. But I need to get mine in gear as well, it's been dragging all year on this...
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Dmen was kind enough to get me a few pieces of lexan that I will be using for mounting panels inside the cab. I'll be using one (for now, might expand to two if needed in the future) for mounting the interface boards to.
Lexan panel marked and drilled.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=173615)
Taped up inside the cab to mark the mounting holes of the panel.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=173617)
Panel removed with mounting holes started. I'll be using 1/4-20 threaded inserts in the MDF just incase I need to remove and reinstall the panel multiple times.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=173619)
Protective film removed from the lexan and my LONO and PACLED64s installed. Check out that buck! ;)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=173621)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=173623)
My threaded inserts should be arriving soon and then I will be able to install the panel in the cab and get to work on the cab wiring.
1,000th post! 8)
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Threaded inserts showed up today from woodworkingparts.com. Very fast service! I got a shipped notification email about an hour after ordering.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=173704)
Threaded inserts installed.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=173706)
Interface panel installed.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=173708)
View looking through the left coin door hole.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=173710)
Too much for three little circuit boards?
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Looks good. I would have never thought to use Lexan as the mounting surface for those boards. :applaud:
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Looks good. I would have never thought to use Lexan as the mounting surface for those boards. :applaud:
Thanks man! :cheers:
No pics, but tonight I modified (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=19200.msg153173#msg153173) my quarter mechs to accept most coins. The pic and explanation aren't the best, but it's a good start and once you start messing with the mech you can see where the tokens/coins are getting hung up and what needs to be done. I just got 200 unused 2004 BYOAC tokens yesterday and am pretty excited about using them. I'll also be adding a microswitch behind my reject buttons to serve as an alternate means of adding credits.
Should have 90% of the cabinet wiring done by the end of next week. Then it'll be finishing up my coin doors and decasing and mounting the computer inside.
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Got the cabinet harnesses half completed today. I have to cut these to length and install the Molex MicroFit connectors on the CP ends, but that will be for another day...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=173954)
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A little more progress on the cabinet harnesses today.
Installed the header connectors to the interface boards to start to bring the harnesses together.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=174083)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=174085)
Removed harnesses from the cabinet and turned 8 harnesses into 4.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=174087)
Reinstalled the harnesses into the cabinet. Routed and secured with anchors. Cut harnesses to length in the CP boxes.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=174089)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=174091)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=174097)
About 160 wires in these harnesses total. The top PACLED64 will be used to control the RGB LEDs on the right side and the bottom on will control the left side. I'll leave them as is overnight to help shape the harnesses. Then I'll pull them back out so I can install the MicroFit connectors at my desk. The U360 usb cables will be routed with these harnesses as well.
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That is some top notch wiring!!! :applaud:
:cheers:
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That is some top notch wiring!!! :applaud:
:cheers:
Thanks man!
Today was a GLORIOUS day!
I spent about 6 hours this morning finishing up the cabinet harnesses. Got the earth grounds done for the CPs finally. Just have a few wires hanging for my coin doors. Here's a shot of the CP harnesses connected to the cabinet harnesses.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=174165)
I plugged everything in to give it a test drive. The LEDs are working perfectly! After months of working on the CPs and harnesses, once it all came together, they JUST WORKED. So happy with them. I am going to cover the button barrels to prevent light bleeding. Jimmy, this video's for you:
(http://s1205.photobucket.com/albums/bb436/nephasth/?action=view¤t=2011-10-10_16-18-09_933.mp4)
At this point it is FINALLY playable! But there is still a lot of work left to do. Install the computer in the cabinet, finish the coin doors, program LEDBlinky, tons of adjustments and tweaks. But the majority of it all is finally behind me!
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Excellent update -top marks. lighted button surrounds are stunning - I predict we'll see more of that approach after this reveal.
:cheers:
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How many people do you think have looked at this project then scrapped or at least re thought there's after? I know I have. It's looking real good keep it up.
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Excellent update -top marks. lighted button surrounds are stunning - I predict we'll see more of that approach after this reveal.
:cheers:
It's looking real good keep it up.
Thanks guys! I appreciate the feedback!
How many people do you think have looked at this project then scrapped or at least re thought there's after?
Probably not as many that have after seeing Mission Control or Ond's Retro-Futuristic. I haven't done anything nearly as earth-shattering as those builds. But I do hope to see more dual screen builds, so hopefully someday the flipped views can be emulated in games like Run N Gun! :cheers:
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A familiar spirit came tonight. After selling the Run N Gun board, I found that Run N Gun would come up with an error in MAME and wouldn't start. Thought I wouldn't get to play Run N Gun on the Two-Headed Beast after I found that out. Recently, I found how to push the game through the error by pressing F2 and F3 at the same time during the rom check screen. Even though the screens aren't mirrored, and I notice the problems with the game, it brought a huge smile to face to be able to play this game again.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=174296)
The little girl loves thing. She hasn't been exposed to much, but so far she's a huge fan of TMNT and MK. I find it's REALLY hard to actually work on this now that it's playable. I would rather fire up a game than do what's needed to complete this. But I'll get to it. :)
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There was a Run & Gun empty cab on Ebay in my area a while back, and I had some fun thinking of what it could become... none of my ideas were as cool as what you've put together!
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Im willing to bet light bleeding wont be much of an issue in normal light conditions.
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A familiar spirit came tonight. After selling the Run N Gun board, I found that Run N Gun would come up with an error in MAME and wouldn't start. Thought I wouldn't get to play Run N Gun on the Two-Headed Beast after I found that out. Recently, I found how to push the game through the error by pressing F2 and F3 at the same time during the rom check screen. Even though the screens aren't mirrored, and I notice the problems with the game, it brought a huge smile to face to be able to play this game again.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=174296)
The little girl loves thing. She hasn't been exposed to much, but so far she's a huge fan of TMNT and MK. I find it's REALLY hard to actually work on this now that it's playable. I would rather fire up a game than do what's needed to complete this. But I'll get to it. :)
I was that lucky S.O.B. that bought the board from Nephasth. Glad you can still play RUN and GUN. That F2/F3 trick works great but it doesn't work on RUN and GUN 2, which is the one you sold me. ;D
Been following your project and it's looks amazing! Love the way you hooked up those LONO and PAC LED boards
:cheers:
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Yeah but he sold me Run N Gun 1, remember? :)
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Bad news. One of the PACLED64s appears to be bad. It will run the flash script when hooked up to a computer, but the computer will not recognize the device although it says it's driver is good. So that's a no go on testing out LEDBlinky. Waiting to hear back from Andy.
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Nephasth,
that sucks about the PACLED not being recognized. Please post what Andy says. I had a similar problem with his "PS3/PC USB Gamepad Interface - XIN-MO Groovy Edition". Was working fine at first then the computer gave me a message that it recognize the USB but didn't know how to handle it, so the controls stopped working. It asked to reinstall the drivers for it, which of course is a plug and play so ???.
Malenko,
yes I remember. You actually stepped back and let me buy the RUN N GUN 2 board. :notworthy:
:cheers:
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Problem solved. Andy was extremely patient and helpful in figuring this out, thanks again!
The verdict: Bad USB cable. :P
Back to my regularly scheduled progress.
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Operation:
Powder Coat Err... Umm... Rattlecan
Decided not to go with powder coating the coin doors after both my "nearly free" powder coating sources fell through. I had started stripping these months ago. It's hard to believe they've been out of my cab for nearly 7 1/2 months already. The other week I finally finished stripping them with a wire cup on a drill. After hitting the temporary snag with the PACLED64, I directed my focus to finishing the coin doors. Painted them last night. Assembled them today.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=174458)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=174460)
I installed the right side coin door in the cab, but left the other side out since most of my cables are coming through that hole to the computer at the moment. Sorry for the ---smurfy--- pic, there's no room in my garage to take a decent one from a proper distance.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=174462)
I used Rustoleum's black hammered finish spray paint.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=174466)
I like the orange peel effect it leaves behind.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=174464)
While I was at it, I also got the parts for mounting the computer painted in the same finish.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=174468)
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Fun With LEDBlinky
I have spent very little time with LEDBlinky so far and I am already impressed! Arzoo, you did an outstanding job with this program! Colors.ini saves me the trouble of individually picking what colors should be for what game. If I want to map an input to a different button, the color follows! I had no idea it was going to be this easy. I've got LEDBlinky fully working with MAME so far. Having a few problems with it in Hyperspin, but haven't really looked into that yet. Here's a couple quick shots.
Satan's Hollow. Red for fire and yellow for sheild, exactly how I would have done it myself, but it is like this automatically! Check out player 2 on the other panel.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=174470)
MK3. Didn't have player 2 mapped correctly yet in this shot.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=174472)
A close up. You can see the light bleeding I mentioned earlier. Definitely going to have to fix this. (Yellow looks much better in person, btw)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=174474)
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Yeah, that functionality of LED Blinky makes it totally worth it to me.
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Light Bleeding Conquered
Got my solution to the light bleeding in the mail today; 48" of 1 1/4" heat shrink tubing.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=174754)
Cut it down to 26 1" long pieces. Removed switches with wires connected from the buttons and layed the harnesses back (those Molex Microfit connectors really paid off). Installed the tubing and used a minitorch to shrink the tubing.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=174756)
The difference is night and day!
Before:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=174474)
After:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=174758)
The colors look much better in person, and although the white appears blue-ish in the pic, it is completely white in person.
As always, there's more than one way to skin a cat. This is the route I decided to go with. But if you run into a light bleeding issue, as long as you can cover the barrell of the buttons somehow (with electrical tape, extra button nuts, paint), you'll get the problem taken care of.
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Heh- I was thinking of doing that same thing!
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:applaud: Nice!!!! Totally worth the extra effort!
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I like that solution. The only thing I can see as being a downside is if you ever have to take the buttons off. Would probably have to cut the heat shrink.
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I like that solution. The only thing I can see as being a downside is if you ever have to take the buttons off. Would probably have to cut the heat shrink.
Definitely a downside. This seemed like the best solution considering my CPs were done before I discovered the issue. The buttons are too close together to be able to wrap tape around them neatly. There was no way I was going to paint them while assembled in the panel or take my panels apart to do so. And I didn't have an extra 52+ button nuts laying around to use. The price wasn't too bad, about $12 shipped. I used just over half of what I bought. When I installed the buttons, I tightened the piss out of the button nuts, hopefully they'll never come loose and I'll never have to remove one. If for some reason an RGB LED fails, I will try to replace it with the button still in the panel. Time will tell. I'm just glad I had those 4 pin connectors installed in the RGB LEDs, I would have been pretty upset if I had to hack up all that wiring, I didn't even have to cut a single zip tie.
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Looking very nice!
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Looking very nice!
Thanks!
----------------------------------------
The Transplant Begins.
Decased the computer and layed everything out inside to figure out placement. Installed some more brass threaded inserts. Got the mobo installed. The power supply and hard drive will be mounted to the left of the mobo tray in the first pic. There will also be a power button and volume control just insde the coin door (if you look close you can see the threaded inserts for this next to the coin door).
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=175029)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=175031)
Also got the other coin door installed. I've got some LED bulbs on the way to replace the reject button bulbs. Only active reject buttons will be lit up per game.
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We can rebuild it. We have the technology...
I dismantled my interface panel to clear up some real estate for a new controller. The Lono². The better, sexier, enhanced Lono!
The Lono² installed on the interface panel.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=175124)
Interface panel reinstalled in the cab.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=175126)
Lono² wired and powered up.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=175128)
The Lono and Lono² side by side.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=175122)
You can see the major differences between the two boards in the last pic. But what does the Lono² do, that the Lono doesn't? Well, you'll have to wait for the product announcement to find out! ;)
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I know I may be biased, but it looks really nice :)
Just a little teaser, LED power up, indicators for the mode it is in, and there is one LED per joystick controller that will light up when any button or joystick is activated... we did this to make trouble shooting a little easier.
We also specifically made the Lono2 square.... that way mounting can be rotated without re-drilling or changing holes. We added more circuit protection. Finally, we just thought a bright red board with LEDs would stand out.... New thread coming soon!
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I'm still impressed by how sleek your wireing job is.
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I know I may be biased, but it looks really nice :)
Just a little teaser, LED power up, indicators for the mode it is in, and there is one LED per joystick controller that will light up when any button or joystick is activated... we did this to make trouble shooting a little easier.
We also specifically made the Lono2 square.... that way mounting can be rotated without re-drilling or changing holes. We added more circuit protection. Finally, we just thought a bright red board with LEDs would stand out.... New thread coming soon!
I'm really liking the overall look of this board! I actually tried to take a pic of the LEDs in the second to last pic, but I was fighting lighting. The top power LED is lit up red, and the J1 header LED is lit up green in the pic. Totally impressed with it so far!
I'm still impressed by how sleek your wireing job is.
Thanks! But I've got the rat's nest of the power supply harnesses not pictured. I've got to wire up the coin doors and tidy up around the computer components before I'll post pics of that (too embarrassed to show it off right now).
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great progress! Any luck with that track ball you PM'ed me about? =)
Thats also a pretty fantastic finish on the coin doors.
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Thanks! I've got three coats of paint on the coin doors, should have went with about 5 though.
I sent you a PM months ago about the trackballs. Didn't hear from you so I figured you didn't want them. I'll resend it.
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Reject Button LED Test
Got the LED bulbs the other day. Got the 6V "cool white" version of these from LEDTronics (http://www.ledtronics.com/Products/ProductsDetails.aspx?WP=1077). I wanted the incand white bulbs, but they were out of stock when I placed my order.
Installation is pretty straight forward. Loosen (don't take out) the mounting screw of the bulb base and rotate the base out. Swap bulb. Reinstall base.
Shot of the base rotated out with new LED installed. Original bulb is resting on the coin chute for comparison.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=175222)
All put back together.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=175224)
I'm waiting on some more of those crimp quick disconnects to wire these up, but wanted to see one lit up. I wired it directly to the power supply's 5V. The front of the coin door is lit up with a flash light to show both reject buttons here. Player 1's reject button is lit.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=175226)
Close up of the reject button lit up in the dark.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=175228)
Once I've got these wired up to the PACLED64s, I'll dim them down a bit since they're pretty bright in the dark.
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How do those compare to the regular bulbs?
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Hard to tell exactly. I never had inserts in with the original bulbs. The originals seemed brighter (but there were no inserts either, you can see them earlier in the thread), and ran on 12V I believe. These LED bulbs are 6V but I will be running them on 5V through the PACLED64s, even at 5V they're brighter than I like. Size wise, almost exact. Price wise, these particular LEDs are way more expensive, over $7 a piece with a minimum order of 10 (got my order for free though). Nicest thing is that I can control the coin door lights with LEDBlinky now.
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Power Button
Made the power button out of spare parts. The button is from the "leftovers" from making the buttons for the CPs. The power indicator LED and hard drive LED (yellow one on the side of the bracket) were taken from the computer that was salvaged for parts, as was the bracket for the button. The volume control will be mounted just below the button.
Assembled and wired (minus the crimp quick disconnects I'm waiting for).
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=175264)
Installed inside the cabinet.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=175266)
View through the coin door.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=175268)
Powered on, no flash, low light.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=175270)
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Nice! What did you make the bracket out of?
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It was just a random piece from the computer case I took apart for the motherboard tray.
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Got my latest order from Paradise earlier this week, which contained the crimp quick disconnects I've been needing. I haven't been too motivated to wire up the coin doors though. It sucks being half crouched inside the cab to do the needed work. Also not very fun adding wires to existing and already secured harnesses. I did make the coin door end of the harnesses last night. This morning was spent finishing the cabinet side of the harness for the left side of the cabinet. Got the reject button lights wired up and decided to call it good for today, I'll get to wiring the coin switches later.
LED Bulb Comparison
A surprise was also thrown into the package from Paradise, a hand full of LED bulbs in a couple of different styles. Thanks Bryan and Susan! Since they're there and I've got half my coin reject light sockets wired to the PACLED64, I thought I'd see which of the three is best.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=175399)
Bulb 1 - Came from LEDtronics. It's close to the same size as a standard bulb. Extremely pricy though. Over $7 per bulb with a minimum order of 10 if you order directly from LEDtronics. Does come with a 3 year warranty though.
Bulb 2 - From Paradise Arcade Shop. Pretty much exactly like a standard bulb. Only $0.65/$0.75 depending on which style your coin door requires.
Bulb 3 - Also from Paradise Arcade shop. Uses the same base as the standard bulb, but much shorter. Don't know what the price would be on these, they're currently not listed on Paradise's site.
Here they are in action.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=175401)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=175403)
All three bulbs do a great job of lighting the reject buttons. However, my preference is for bulb 2 (from Paradise). The diffusing lens helps distribute the light a little more evenly and also helps keep the reject buttons looking like orange instead of yellow (most noticeable in the inserts). The color is very close between bulbs 1 and 3, bulb 3 seems just a little bit brighter than bulb 1. I wonder if I got bulb 1 in the incand white color instead of the cool white color, if it would have helped keep the reject button looking orange instead of yellow.
I didn't expect bulb 3 to do as well as it did because it doesn't go into the light hole for the reject button. You can see what I'm talking about in these pics.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=175405)
And with it lit up you can see how much light is lost from being so far back from the hole.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=175407)
Even if you've never planned on using LEDs in your coin doors, for the price they are at Paradise, it's well worth picking up a few if you happen to be placing an order with them. If you don't have an LED controller, you can wire them up directly to your computer's power supply (red wire for 5V).
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I figured it was close to Christmas.... :)
One minor detail. and sorry I completely forgot to send a note about this. Bulb 3 is a 12V bulb, Bulb 2 is a 5/6.3 volt bulb.
Bulb 3, the one that has no diffusing lense has a high diffusion smd led and we had made because many original arcade games ran the coin slot lights at 12V. It is an 1816 replacement
Bulb 2 is made to be a 44 drop in replacement.
Mahalo
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Worth noting that you can get cardboard tubes that slip over the bulbs and would direct that light better on that short LED. (I believe they're used to keep light bulbs from grounding out against coin doors) I imagine a piece of heat shrink tubing could be a cheap substitute.
Nice solution!
Bulb 3 is a 12V bulb, Bulb 2 is a 5/6.3 volt bulb.
Bulb 3, the one that has no diffusing lense has a high diffusion smd led and we had made because many original arcade games ran the coin slot lights at 12V. It is an 1816 replacement
Wow, now I want to see what it looks like with 12V supplied to it. ;D
Didn't make it clear in my last post, but all 3 LEDs were ran on 5V in the comparison.
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A little late, but I just read through your entire thread. I cant say I have tried this on a LED button, but I have done it on acrylic's using LED's to light them up. If you have a spare unit to test, try placing aluminum foil around the button surround first. Be careful not to pull, just press it into the grooves to form it into place. Or if you want to use something better, get the thin metal tape. Its basically aluminum foil tape. One side has adhesive, the other dont. Then put the heat shrink tubing over the foil and shrink. The black will absorb your light, but using the foil reflects it and will amplify it until it finds an exit, which is the top. Your button surrounds will be brighter.
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The Future?
(http://www.lg.com/au/it-products/images/lg-monitors-M3800S-BN-3_4view-large.png) (http://www.lg.com/au/it-products/monitors/LG-large-format-monitors-M3800S-BN.jsp)
Been seeing other projects with LCD marquees around. Found this monitor. A 38" 17:5 beauty. It's almost the EXACT size of the marquee on the beast. MSRP was something like $4500 when these were new. There are re-furbed monitors on eBay for just over $700. I need to find a duffelbag of cash in my backyard, or an old stash in the walls.
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(http://www.lg.com/au/it-products/images/lg-monitors-M3800S-BN-3_4view-large.png) (http://www.lg.com/au/it-products/monitors/LG-large-format-monitors-M3800S-BN.jsp)
HMMMM $700 is starting to be more like it. I'm going to go ahead and say that if these get to under $500 I'll be seriously considering retrofitting switchcade. Especially since it's sitting done but I haven't posted due to having zero Marquee ideas. Had to put white paper in there to keep the novagems from blinding me.
The ultimate finish for a standup mame rig. Nep, go ahead and get this running on the beast so we can check it out.
you saw this guy right? http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=115898.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=115898.0)
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HMMMM $700 is starting to be more like it. I'm going to go ahead and say that if these get to under $500 I'll be seriously considering retrofitting switchcade.
LG also made a 29" model. I looked at this (38" model) monitor a few months back, and re-furbed ones were listed for around $1100. So hopefully they'll be much more affordable in a year (if there are any still around).
The ultimate finish for a standup mame rig. Nep, go ahead and get this running on the beast so we can check it out.
Ultimate is right. I'm accepting donations to expedite the installation so everyone can check it out. ;D
you saw this guy right? http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=115898.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=115898.0)
Yes indeed, and it is awesome. That's why I looked into it again.
Randy took a step in the right direction years ago: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=70840.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=70840.0)
And Yvan is doing some cool stuff with his mini Neo Geo mini marquee: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=94770.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=94770.0)
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A little progress, a little frustration.
I had intended on adding switches to my U360s, for two reasons. One, I wanted both sticks (U360 and JLW) on each panel to feel the same. Two, for some reason unknown to me, when they created Hyperspin, they chose to only have it recognize two joystick devices (the beast has six). And P1 (as well as P2) consists of 2 joysticks; the U360 for directional input, and the Lono2 for button inputs. So I have to set each up in Hyperspin for P1 to navigate Hyperspin properly, which leaves P2 unable to navigate Hyperspin. I figured if, when I added the switched to the U360s, I wired them up to the Lono2's inputs for P1's directions (as well as P2's when the time came), I could have both P1 and P2 navigate Hyperspin.
I decided on Paradise's Zippy Joystick Upgrade Kit (http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/en/microswitches/239-seimitsu-ls-32-zippyy-joystick-upgrade-kit.html), and ordered 4 sets for all my sticks. I finally got around to installing them into the left panel today. While I was at it, I thought I better make a harness for the U360's I/O header incase I ever wanted to use it with the Lono2.
Here's the shorty harness for the U360 I/O header.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=175725)
Harnesses and switches installed (don't mind the missing stand off on the U360).
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=175727)
I used 6 pin Micro-fit Molex connectors (as always) to add this harness in.
Now for the frustration. These switches require a larger gate (longer throw) than my octagonal restrictors to actuate all directions (diagonals) properly. I wrapped tape around the switch actuators of the joysticks to try to help out, but it is still extremely hard to hit the diagonals while playing. Also, I've got a possible short to track down now. When I hit a direction on the U360 with the switches connected to the Lono harness, the Lono2 is lighting up the indicator LEDs for both the P1 and P2 headers, which I find very strange since those harnesses are completely seperated, and still lights both header indicators when the P2 harness is disconnected from the Lono2, so a short between them is impossible. With the U360 I/O header connected to the harness, no indicator LEDs light on the Lono2. Wiring problem? Maybe. Hardware problem? Maybe. I'll have to do some more troubleshooting when I get some time.
As far as the switches go, I'm going to try some different ones. I was hoping these would perform better, I really like how quiet they are.
Edited for spelling.
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WOW!!! Just WOW! :notworthy: :notworthy:
I love how the buttons change with the game. One of the best project I have seen; also one of the biggest.
Can't wait to see the end, keep up the good work.
MM
Out...
P.S. Damn, you used a :angry: load of black wire.
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WOW!!! Just WOW! :notworthy: :notworthy:
I love how the buttons change with the game. One of the best project I have seen; also one of the biggest.
Can't wait to see the end, keep up the good work.
MM
Out...
P.S. Damn, you used a :angry: load of black wire.
Many thanks for the kind words!
Don't know exactly how many feet of wire has been used so far, but it's pretty close to 600' right now. Cabinet lighting (if I ever get to it) will probably push that over 1000'.
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Ordered some keychains from OldTymeToys (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=97793.0) a while back. They showed up today and thought I'd post up the keychain reserved for the Beast! All of the keychains I got are pretty badass. Thanks Jon!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=176666)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=176668)
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Nephasth-
How thick are the metal panels you had created? I'm planning something and was wondering how think your panels were.
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Dmen made them out of 16 or 18 gauge stainless steel. I'll verify the thickness once I get my monstrosity of a toolbox moved over to my new house.
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Man, you are awesome at this. Your attention to detail, ingenuity, and professionalism are astounding.
I hate the gnawed wood that is on the old cabinets that I end up with. Did you address this?
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=162415)
Is there a trick to fixing it? I didn't see anything in your pics, but I bet you cleaned that up somehow. Can you sand it down or cut it into a bevel? Maybe just throw a piece of molding on it?
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Thanks rooter! I haven't addressed any cosmetic issues of the cabinet yet. This was in the garage at my old place and I wasn't too concerned about the looks of it vs playability at the time. However, I'll have a gameroom in my new house, so these issues will be addressed. Rapomstage3 (probably spelled his username wrong) has (had?) an NBA Jam in one of these cabinets that had similar issues with the corners. He used bondo and cardboard forms to bring the corners back into existence, and came out with great results. I've been without a computer for the past few days, but I'm getting the internet hooked up in my new house this morning. Once I've got my computer back up I'll post a link to his thread.
Since I'll have an actual gameroom and now have a huge garage, progress can pick up on this again. Things that still need to be done:
-Finish wiring the right side coin door (minor, just been lazy)
-Cabinet and marquee lighting (I've acquired some parts second hand that are available from a vendor I would never do business with directly that will make the cabinet lighting much easier)
-Since I'll have those aforementioned parts, I'll probably throw a Qbert knocker in this thing for the hell of it (can you guess what parts I'm talking about now? ;))
-Complete disassembly of the cab
-Body work to the cab to fix all the dings and scrapes
-Complete paint job inside and out
-Monitor work (cap kits and new flybacks)
-Smoked/tinted monitor plexi/glass
-Marquee monitor (still just a maybe, but I'd really like to do this)
Projected finish… 2013-2014
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Nephasth-
Thanks. The higher the guage, the thicker the panel, correct? I was thinking about making a metal panel that was 1/8 thick (0.125), which would be around an 8 guage in aluminum and 11 in steel (closest without going over). I wanted to replace my 5/8 wood-1/8 poly control panel with one that was 1/2 wood frame-1/8 metal-1/8 poly so I could use some metal-panel mount joysticks.
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Nope, the lower the gauge number, the thicker the metal, just like wires.
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Nope, the lower the gauge number, the thicker the metal, just like wires.
I see. Thanks.
I just went and talked to my buddy, the shop teacher, and he's got a piece of scrap that should be perfect. I just need to design the plate in Illustrator, import it to the plasma cutting software, and it will cut everything for me. Yay!
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I drew my flat drawing in Visio. I was able to just save as a .dxf and the laser cut it out without any modifications to the file. One thing to keep in mind is that metal stretches when it is bent, changing the dimensions. I didn't take this into account with mine and had to add spacers behind my cp boxes to get the panels to sit correctly. Good luck with your panel! And make sure you post pics of it! :)
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I drew my flat drawing in Visio. I was able to just save as a .dxf and the laser cut it out without any modifications to the file. One thing to keep in mind is that metal stretches when it is bent, changing the dimensions. I didn't take this into account with mine and had to add spacers behind my cp boxes to get the panels to sit correctly. Good luck with your panels! And make sure you post pics of them! :D
Thanks for the tip. I've read the 'Beast thread like 5 times already for wiring tips, so I've had that in mind. Fortunately, it's all going to be sandwiched flat, so I don't have to worry about bending. I'll post pictures of everything, wiring included, when done! :cheers:
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....... I've read the 'Beast thread like 5 times already for wiring tips, so I've had that in mind. Fortunately, it's all going to be sandwiched flat, so I don't have to worry about bending. I'll post pictures of everything, wiring included, when done! :cheers:
Make sure that wiring is regulation black on black (on black), Soldier.
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Rapomstage3 has (had?) an NBA Jam in one of these cabinets that had similar issues with the corners. He used bondo and cardboard forms to bring the corners back into existence, and came out with great results. I've been without a computer for the past few days, but I'm getting the internet hooked up in my new house this morning. Once I've got my computer back up I'll post a link to his thread.
Here's that link: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=114736.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=114736.0)
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Rapomstage3 has (had?) an NBA Jam in one of these cabinets that had similar issues with the corners. He used bondo and cardboard forms to bring the corners back into existence, and came out with great results. I've been without a computer for the past few days, but I'm getting the internet hooked up in my new house this morning. Once I've got my computer back up I'll post a link to his thread.
Here's that link: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=114736.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=114736.0)
Awesome thread. Thanks for taking the time to come back and post it.
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Nep-
What size carriage bolts did you use for your joysticks?
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1/4". Should have went with 3/16" though. Got them from Fastenal. Was somewhat hard to find stainless without manufacturing marks.
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So you think the 1/4ths are too big? I got some of those as well, but I dunno... They seem big. I got some 3/16ths as well, but the holes I have cut are too big for them (cut for the 1/4th). I'm going to buy a sheet of cold rolled steel and maybe recut a panel for the 3/16ths. I'll have enough metal left over for other fun projects!
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I don't think the heads of the bolts are too big on top of the panel. But I had a combination of issues. First, I designed the panels for Mag-Sticks but went with U360s and JLWs. So to get those joys to fit I had to do some serious modification to the mounting holes. While tightening the nuts, the corners of the nuts would press into the joystick body, and the flats of the nuts rest right up against them. The cabs I have that use carriage bolts for the joysticks use 3/16" bolts. Just one of those things I didn't pay much mind to at the time. In the end it worked out, but if I had to do it over again, I would do it right with 3/16" stainless carriage bolts. If you really want to get fancy, use weld studs on the underside for your joysticks. I would have done this on mine, but I was worried about discoloration and warping/puddle effects on the top side since I have no CPOs.
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Well, it's been a long while since I've actually worked on the Beast, but I got a little done yesterday. With the machine being in my old uninsulated garage for this past winter, it didn't see any work... or any play. Just moved into a much larger house a couple of weeks ago, and I've got a spot all picked out inside, out of the elements, for the Beast.
For the move I had to remove some of the interior components that weren't secured in the cab (power supply and subwoofer mainly). To get this down into the basement, it has to come apart in multiple pieces. Before it gets inside I wanted to get those components secured. I picked up some overpriced brackets from Lowe's and modified them to hold down the power supply and sub. I used threaded inserts again in the cabinet wood. The two lower brackets on the sub are screwed into the sub box with wood screws. The top bracket isn't screwed into the sub, but help holds it down in place preventing wobbling. I'll probably trim the brackets for the power supply so the bottom edge is flush with the board. Still need to clean up the power supply wires... Couple of pics of the brackets:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=182004)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=182006)
If all goes well, Dmen and my brother-in-law will be helping me move it into the gameroom this afternoon. The topper and control panel boxes will be coming off. If we're going to be vaginas today, we'll take the monitors out too. It's been awesome having tons of room to work on the games, no more cramped ass garage!
Also, I've been setting up the new gameroom these past few days. A few pics of the games...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=182012)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=182010)
Gorf being all lonely in the vid row. The Beast will go on the right, Arkanoid on the left.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=182008)
The ceiling fan has been taken down and replaced with a smaller light, it was right in the dart lane. Got way lucky with the dart machine, there's only 1/2" of clearance between it and the ceiling. After the move the only problem with any game was one light was out on the ball counter on Skeeball... pleasantly surprised.
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good fit on the skee ball topper under the soffit. and nice looking gorf - did you do work on it?
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Thanks. I had to remove the beacon light from the skeeball machine, but that's no biggie. As for the Gorf, it's pretty much just the same as when I bought it. A year and half ago I replaced a bunch of lights and wiped down the cab, that's all I've really done. I'll be installing modified coin mechs in it soon, then all the games in there will accept almost any sized tokens (except for the Megatouch, that'll stay on freeplay).
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good fit on the skee ball topper under the soffit.
thats a bulk head, if the AC is running through it :)
Looks good bro!
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Thanks. I had to remove the beacon light from the skeeball machine, but that's no biggie. As for the Gorf, it's pretty much just the same as when I bought it. A year and half ago I replaced a bunch of lights and wiped down the cab, that's all I've really done. I'll be installing modified coin mechs in it soon, then all the games in there will accept almost any sized tokens (except for the Megatouch, that'll stay on freeplay).
Freakin' jealous about that Gorf.
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Thanks guys!
Well, we were vaginas... Marquee top, CPs, CP boxes, monitor glass, bezels, monitor tubes, and a vent grille all had to come off the machine for the move into the basement. Two doors and a banister had to be removed as well.
This is about the time we realized the banister needed to be removed...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=182067)
It was an extremely tight fit, with only an RCH or 2 to spare. The widest part of the Beast measures 29 1/4", the doorway opening measured 29 1/4". After a lot of cussing and heavy breathing, she finally made it into the game room...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=182069)
After that ordeal, it was time for beer and darts. But I did start putting it back together later. Here's how it stands now. Just need to get the tubes and monitor area parts back in. Pretty close clearance on the Beast as well...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=182071)
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Just came over here from the lit up button thread, those buttons are freakin awesome. Glad I didn't see this before I ordered my EI2 buttons or I would of spent a bunch more money on double the buttons. Very nicely done.
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Just came over here from the lit up button thread, those buttons are freakin awesome. Glad I didn't see this before I ordered my EI2 buttons or I would of spent a bunch more money on double the buttons. Very nicely done.
Thanks man. Way back when I ordered my buttons they were a bit cheaper. Total end cost per button including RGB LEDs was $6.20, 26 buttons ran me a little over $162 (player imprint buttons were a little more than just the black ones).
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26 buttons ran me a little over $162 (player imprint buttons were a little more than just the black ones).
:o
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Thanks man. Way back when I ordered my buttons they were a bit cheaper. Total end cost per button including RGB LEDs was $6.20, 26 buttons ran me a little over $162 (player imprint buttons were a little more than just the black ones).
I just bought around 40 EI2s for a 4-player cab with RGBs, so that kinda hurt the pocketbook. LOL
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Love the craftsmanship on this, looks fantastic!
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How low is that ceiling? Looks uncomfortably low.
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How low is that ceiling? Looks uncomfortably low.
The lowest part are 6' 10", tallest part is 7' 7", definitely uncomfortable for giants…
Love the craftsmanship on this, looks fantastic!
Thanks man! Been trying to put my best effort into every part so far. The real test will be the cabinet refinishing.
Edited - actually measured the ceiling.
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Got the Beast put back together last night...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=182173)
Stuffed Arkanoid into its slot today. The vid row is complete.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=182175)
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Looking very nice in there with it's brother cabs even with the tiny ceiling ;)
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Back In The Saddle
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=184365)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=184367)
;)
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This is still one of my all time fave projects. Also, I'm mega jelly of your arkanoid
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This is still one of my all time fave projects. Also, I'm mega jelly of your arkanoid
+1, although I think I am drooling over the Gorf a bit more.
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Love gorf! Not enough to own one. I usually play a game every couple years and I'm good for a while.
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Thanks guys.
Nice to know that Arkanoid and Gorf get a little love. What about Asteroids? You guys like that one? :)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=184456)
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Did you just get that, you son-of-a----smurfette---? :cheers:
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Did you just get that, you son-of-a----smurfette---? :cheers:
;)
It's too hard to pass up a freebie.
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Did you just get that, you son-of-a----smurfette---? :cheers:
;)
It's too hard to pass up a freebie.
HOW DID YOU GET THAT AS A FREEBIE!!!!! :hissy: I'm jealous of it all.
Yes I know caps is on.
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Got lucky. Popped up on CL. I shot an email about 1/2 hour after it was listed, happened to be the first (of many) the owner got. She was willing to hold it for 4 days for me even after she had many offers to pick up that same day. It had been sitting in their basement for the past 20 years and they just wanted it out of the way. It was a major PITA to move out of the basement (narrow staircase with a tight corner). Now I just need some free time to give it some TLC...
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What's the condition like?
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Cab is in pretty good shape. A little rust on the CP (kind of expected that). Missing top marquee bracket. Pretty clean inside. Haven't plugged it in yet, but was told it "turns on but only shows up on half the monitor."
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Good CL find then. I've searched there before but only found a empty Baby Pacman cab for free.
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Was able to mess around with it last night and this morning. The monitor had vertical fold over and faded in and out. Pulled the monitor board and found all the connector headers had cracked solder joints. Reflowed those and reinstalled. Turned her on and after a little adjustment the monitor looks much better. It seemed pretty dull though. Pulled the bezel and found a pretty thick layer of black dust on the monitor. Much brighter after the clean up! Still need to address a spot killer issue...
Nasty:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=184475)
Clean:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=184477)
Just need to do a little more clean up and get some new buttons and such, and she'll be looking slick. The wife says I have to sell it though... :-\
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Just need to do a little more clean up and get some new buttons and such, and she'll be looking slick. The wife says I have to sell it though... :-\
Put it on CL for an outrageous amount. If you get it, great. If not, say you tried.
"Nice ASTEROIDS $2700. DON'T LOWBALL ME MAN!!!!1!"
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Still need to address a spot killer issue...
Never mind, I just had the brightness cranked up from before I cleaned the monitor... ::)
Put it on CL for an outrageous amount. If you get it, great. If not, say you tried.
"Nice ASTEROIDS $2700. DON'T LOWBALL ME MAN!!!!1!"
Sounds like a plan to get this down to the game room! ;)
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Nice find. I've got a similar ms. pac-man craigslist cheap find. Not in the same category of rarity, obviously. Nearly perfect condition after monitor work, quick clean and repainting the cp. Don't want/need the game -it needs to go.
I'm thinking $1800 for the CL shoot-for-the-moon relist!
Do NOT even THINK about LOWBALLING me MAN!
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$1800? I can get a better deal here:
http://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/vgm/3018974686.html (http://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/vgm/3018974686.html)
One buck is one buck, eh!
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Yeah, but I bet he charges a dollar for that Christmas bow.
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That ultracade is worth at least $2900. I live and sell in a "resort" area. Plus theres a lotta added value to a ms pac sporting vinyl sideart and a bootleg jamma gameboard. plays frogger/galaga too, yo what's up:
CL: ultra ms pac cade, 3 in one, $3900 or trade for air bagged low rider mazda pickup straight up.
NO LO BO'S!
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That ultracade is worth at least $2900. I live and sell in a "resort" area. Plus theres a lotta added value to a ms pac sporting vinyl sideart and a bootleg jamma gameboard. plays frogger/galaga too, yo what's up:
CL: ultra ms pac cade, 3 in one, $3900 or trade for air bagged low rider mazda pickup straight up.
NO LO BO'S!
You should also accept offers for quads or guns. I see a lot of that out here in Arizona.
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I could also get this Ms. Mac-Man for $800.
http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/vgm/3015866939.html (http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/vgm/3015866939.html)
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Did you just get that, you son-of-a----smurfette---? :cheers:
;)
It's too hard to pass up a freebie.
I hate you now.
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Thanks guys!
Ok, back on topic...
Got a little prep work done for mounting the Invaders to the cab. First I had to make a template in Visio. This template will be used to install the hardware onto the Invaders and also be used as a drilling template for the cab.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=184483)
After months of thinking about how I wanted to mount these things, I decided to use a combination of machine screws, spacers, and weld nuts. The template was necessary in order to get the weld nuts installed in the same places on each Invader, to make sure the holes could be drilled properly in the cab, so the Invaders would be mounted straight. I went with 1/4-20 hardware. The base of the weld nuts are 3/4" and are about 5/16" high. The length of spacers to be used has yet to be determined, but probably in the 1/2" to 3/4" range. The "MAME" in the marquee will also be mounted in a similar fashion as the Invaders.
An Invader with the template on, ready for weld nut installation.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=184485)
All the Invaders with the weld nuts installed and drying (JB Weld).
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=184487)
Hopefully will be able to tackle the LEDs on these bad boys by Monday.
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I couldn't help myself, I had to see on lit up tonight. ;D
LEDs installed. (Black PCBs!)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=184512)
Wired. Soldering these was a PITA... but well worth it!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=184514)
Lit up red with the lights on.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=184516)
Lights off.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=184518)
Viewed from an angle you can see the reflections of the LEDs (24 total for each Invader).
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=184520)
These are turning out just as I had hoped! So excited to get the cabinet lighting done. :)
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I just discovered your project & did a quick scan thru the posts. Sweet machine! Inspirational! 1 point, unrelated to the value of your project: I read early on that u don't like sports games. I don't either--I wasn't even a hyper olympics fan. But I did love, absolutely love, 1 sports game relevant to your project--cyberball. Try it (preferably 2 player) if u haven't. My bet is that u will like it, maybe even love it. & u have the perfect machine for playing it 2 player. I've been quietly grieving the fact that I won't b able to afford to build a true 2 player cyberball style machine (my plans r for something like 'Ghost in the Machine').
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:notworthy:
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No luck getting them to light up black, huh?
>:D :angel: >:D :angel: >:D
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Fantastic....
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:applaud:
Those LEDs look awesome! Got a link for those bad boys?
:cheers:
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Sweet machine! Inspirational!
:notworthy:
Fantastic....
Those LEDs look awesome!
Many thanks guys! The positive feedback helps with the motivation to get this tedious stuff done.
No luck getting them to light up black, huh?
One can only dream... ;)
Those LEDs look awesome! Got a link for those bad boys?
Got a 5 meter roll off ebay for ~$27 shipped. 3M adhesive backed and "waterproofed".
http://www.ebay.com/itm/320894921877?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/320894921877?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649)
The leftovers will be used for floor lighting in my Tundra...
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OMG those are insane :notworthy: from the lower angle it looks like they have eyes AND TEETH haha very well done :) giving me more and more ideas everyday :D
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Think I'm going to have to make a few of those to mount on my imaginary bar. (Meaning they will get stuck on a wall in the house wether my wife likes it or not.)
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ok, so how much you gonna charge me for 4 of those invaders with or without LEDs? I need em for my game room
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Crazy Climber over on KLOV still makes these as far as I know. He's running short on color choices though. When I got mine he was just making the Invaders, now he offers a full Space Invaders set for $40 shipped: http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=221977 (http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=221977) (it's in a restricted forum though, you might have to be a member to see the thread)
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yeah I thought you already upped my account there.
The most common cause of this problem is that your account has not been upgraded to allow you to post on these forums. In order to be validated to post, you either need a recommendation from an existing member, or you need to make a donation of $2 or more so that that we know you are a real person (We figure if you have a PayPal account that you really exist). See the instructions in the New User forum section for more information.
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wheeeeeeeeeeeee
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Says you've already been verified... might try sending Crazy Climber a PM. You might have to be over you "new poster" status before you can view restricted threads...
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Toiled away at the cabinet lighting today. I got all the LEDs wired and secured on the Invaders and the marquee. Absolutely HAD to see them in action, so I wired up a few to an LED-Wiz and messed around with LEDBlinky for a few. Man do they look tits! Can't wait to get everything all mounted into the cab... just waiting on the hardware to show up. :)
A couple animation videos... don't mind the background noise (looking at you old farts).
(http://s1205.photobucket.com/albums/bb436/nephasth/?action=view¤t=2012-05-21_17-52-30_493.mp4)
(http://s1205.photobucket.com/albums/bb436/nephasth/?action=view¤t=2012-05-21_17-55-33_609.mp4)
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:notworthy:
That looks insane!! Can't wait to see it all lit up.
:cheers:
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:notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
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Bottom animation absolutely gorgeous :)
:burgerking: keep up he great work :)
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:blowup:
Mind.
Blown.
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I believe I heard the devil in the background chanting some magic words in order to make them lights KICK ASS! :applaud:
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:cheers: Guys!
I believe I heard the devil in the background chanting some magic words in order to make them lights KICK ASS! :applaud:
:duckhunt
Just in case anyone is curious, here's what the back side of the marquee looks like.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=184768)
84 LEDs on the marquee. The LED-Wiz will be running a total of 180 RGB LEDs for the cabinet lighting, although that's only for 8 independently controlled sections. The PACLED64s didn't have quite the muscle I needed for these, but I might have something else in store for the unused outputs on my PACLED64s... ;)
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you said the pacled's running the control pannel and other parts :)
So whats controlling the marquee ???? and how do you wire the breaks in the lettering.
Im curious as I have a 48 led bar and i would love to split it :)
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you said the pacled's running the control pannel and other parts :)
So whats controlling the marquee ???? and how do you wire the breaks in the lettering.
Im curious as I have a 48 led bar and i would love to split it :)
I've got 2 PACLED64s running the LEDs (5v) in the control panels. I've got an LED-Wiz (not yet installed in the cab) to run the marquee and Invader LEDs (12v). The LEDs I used for the marquee and Invaders came in a roll and are cuttable every 3 LEDs. There are contact points on the cut lines of the strip, and I had to solder wires to the ends of the cut strips for each lit "section" (see the Invader pic a few posts up for wiring).
Edit: Not sure if I answered your last question correctly... If not this might, for the breaks in the lettering (having "M" seperate from "A" and so on) all of the LEDs on each letter are wired together, and each cluster of LEDs for each letter has 4 wires running to the LED-Wiz (1 power, and 3 grounds for RGB), as can be seen going towards the top of the last pic. Kind of hard to tell in the pic, but the wires from the LED-Wiz go into the bottom right contacts of the LED strips for the "M"s and "A", the "E" was a little funny. Those wires are hot glued close to the LED strips and will go through the marquee, into the topper, just under the mounting holes for these letters.
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you did a fine job of soldering those led strip contacts.
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wow.
WOW
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ahh gotcha :) ill just put some tape on the top edge so when i split it up ill know which wires goto where as i dont own a multi-meter :(
also i just ordered a led-wiz from Andy @ Ultimarc along with a few more happ buttons for my flippers :D
I just couldnt handle the thought of static on or off for my buttons and led bars :) next machine ill account for a pacled instead :D
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you did a fine job of soldering those led strip contacts.
Thanks! It was a ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- ton of soldering, 224 points with 26 awg wire, took a while to find a groove.
wow.
WOW
Thank you, thank you! :)
ahh gotcha :) ill just put some tape on the top edge so when i split it up ill know which wires goto where as i dont own a multi-meter :(
also i just ordered a led-wiz from Andy @ Ultimarc along with a few more happ buttons for my flippers :D
I just couldnt handle the thought of static on or off for my buttons and led bars :) next machine ill account for a pacled instead :D
Just so you're aware, the PACLED64 (from Ultimarc) and LED-Wiz (from Groovy Game Gear) are 2 completely different devices with different capabilities. The PACLED64 is great if you are only hooking up one LED per output (or one RGB LED per three outputs) to control them independently, you will need an LED-Wiz if you're using strips like this that have mulitple LEDs which draw more current than the outputs of the PACLED64 can handle.
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...... where as i dont own a multi-meter :(
GTFO of this thread.
>:D >:D >:D >:D >:D >:D >:D
Get :tool: ed up and get going!
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:banghead: "facepalmed" Yes sir, ill get right on it sir,
Can you sir say E-sir-Bay Sir lol :laugh2:
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Got a little work done today, nothing exciting or anything. Made a template in Visio to fit the front panel with the spacing for the Invaders...
Mounted it to the cab, verified level, and center punched all the holes.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=184909)
Drilled 3/32" pilot holes and followed with 1/4" holes.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=184911)
Next I'll have to remove the right side monitor to drill the one of the two 5" (yes, five inch) access holes inside the cab. The big holes are necessary because the front panel is one side of a triangular box, and as it stands right now, there is no way to get to the back side of the holes I just drilled. I'll wait for some 8-32 torx screws to show up before I remove the monitor. The monitor glass brackets and marquee bracket are held onto the cab with wood screws right now. I'll be replacing these with machine screws and installing threaded inserts in the existing holes (a few screw holes are already stripped out).
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Nephasth, I just realized that I have never dropped in to let you know what an awesomely badass build this is. Everyting from the industrial look to the miles of wire it is top notch. Can't wait to see the side lights get put on. Keep it up bro! :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
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Nephasth, I just realized that I have never dropped in to let you know what an awesomely badass build this is. Everyting from the industrial look to the miles of wire it is top notch. Can't wait to see the side lights get put on. Keep it up bro! :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
Thanks man! I know I mentioned keeping an "industrial look" early in the build/planning process, but to be honest, when I look at this thing that word never really comes to mind...
I'm stuck home for the long weekend (on call for work). Still haven't gotten my hardware from Fastenal yet. So I found some busy work to do today. I finished up the Invaders and marquee with some dual row 4 pin Micro-fit Molex connectors.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=185215)
Also made these...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=185217)
...what could they be for? >:D
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...what could they be for? >:D
It's a bit hard to tell from the pic, but it appears that there might be some protective coating peeling back. :angel:
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Mounting plates of some sort?
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...what could they be for? >:D
It's a bit hard to tell from the pic, but it appears that there might be some protective coating peeling back. :angel:
You know what's up. ;)
Mounting plates of some sort?
Nope. ;D
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My guess is something to do with joysticks. Maybe they mount ontop of the joystick plate to give the dust washer something to ride on without ruining paint/graphics. :dunno
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My guess is something to do with joysticks.
:applaud:
I tore apart one of the CPs this morning to see how they'd look. So here you go:
Lights in room on, LED off.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=185312)
Lights in room on, LED on.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=185314)
Lights in room off, LED on.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=185316)
The options coming out for RGB balltops has been great, but there isn't an option available for JLWs yet, let alone U360s (without getting a machinist to do some work). Also, I don't know what the smoke color of my balltops would do to the light. So I came up with the idea of edge lighting some plexi just under the CP and above the dust washer. In the pics, there is only an LED on one edge of the plexi (and the protective film is still in place, good eye BadMouth). When these are finished being installed, there will be one LED on each edge of these plexi plates. What do you guys think?
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Nice idea, and it shouldn't affect gameplay! :cheers:
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nice and simple solution to lite your joystick :) and one in each corner should create an even glow :)
i guess those invaders are giving you more ideas i was going to say there mounting plates for turncogs that will rotate the invaders left and right like a pendulum haha :)
only kidding :D
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the lit joysticks look real slick!!
what you're doing with lighting on this cab is simply amazing :applaud:
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Neph-
Are you going to do RGB, or just blue?
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Everything else is RGB he HAS to do RGB on these as well.
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Nice idea, and it shouldn't affect gameplay! :cheers:
nice and simple solution to lite your joystick :)
the lit joysticks look real slick!!
what you're doing with lighting on this cab is simply amazing :applaud:
Thanks guys! These have been boiling in the thought box for a little while now.
Everything else is RGB he HAS to do RGB on these as well.
;)
Neph-
Are you going to do RGB, or just blue?
RGBs. I'll be using the same RGB LEDs that are in those LED strips I used for the Invaders and marquee, but each one will be wired individually to my PACLED64s (no resistors required). I have just enough spare outputs between both my PACLED64s to light up 4 RGBs per joystick, leaving just 2 outputs to spare between both of them. Here's the LEDs I've got coming for these (http://www.ebay.com/itm/120644158472?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649).
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I have just enough spare outputs between both my PACLED64s to light up 4 RGBs per joystick, leaving just 2 outputs to spare between both of them.
Minor miscalculation. I forgot about the coin reject button LEDs being wired to the PACLED64s. I'll have to reduce the number of RGBs per joystick down to 3...
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Hardware finally showed up from Fastenal and was able to make a little progress yesterday. First thing I did was remove the monitor glass brackets and upper marquee retainer. Drilled the holes a little larger and installed some 8-32 threaded inserts. Reinstalled the brackets (minus the right side monitor glass bracket) and finished them off with some new 8-32 torx screws. :)
Next I pulled the bezel, disconnected the monitor chassis, pulled the tube out of the front, and pulled the chassis with frame out of the back (won't fit through the front). After all that, I was finally able to make my access holes.
Fresh cuts, no clean up.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=185504)
Look at the size of that holesaw! :o
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=185502)
It has served its purpose...
With the big holes cut, I could get access to the backside of the front panel and mount the Invaders. That top one was the biggest ---smurfette---, and I could just barely reach the top screw to tighten it (still need to go back and straighten him a little).
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=185506)
View from the top down, so you can see how they're mounted.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=185508)
I need to make the wiring harness from the Invaders to just inside the main part of the cab before I stuff that monitor back in.
I can see the light at the end of the tunnel... :cheers:
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I need a set of invaders shipped to my home address. You can make new or just take them off your cab. Your choice. :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
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Really nice work, especially the wiring and LED work. Keep it up!
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I need a set of invaders shipped to my home address. You can make new or just take them off your cab. Your choice. :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
LEDs and all?!? You're nuts Chuckster! ;)
Really nice work, especially the wiring and LED work. Keep it up!
Thanks man! This thing is almost done...
Got home from work today, played a game of Gorf (scored a new personal best :)), and started on the Invader harness. Lit one of them up to check it out. The camera exaggerated the reflection in the second pic.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=185530)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=185532)
Got lots of clean up to do, left the game room a mess last night. Hoping to get the marquee done this weekend...
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lol you were using rgb leds for the invaders or are they 1 color i didnt remember :)
And oh boy that cp is SMEXXXXXXY :) :applaud:
and btw i found my solution in the end, but thanks for the help :)
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Got the assembly of the marquee finished up today. I cut a piece of plexi just big enough to cover the cutout letters. Taped it into place and marked the corners. Laid this over the letters to mark the holes for the bolts and harnesses. I removed the plexi and painted the back side with some flat black and let it dry over night. This morning I JB Welded the plexi to the backside of the marquee.
Backside.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=185609)
Front.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=185611)
Installed the letters on the marquee and reinstalled the marquee in the cab.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=185613)
Next up is to make the harness for the marquee. Curious to see how the light will reflect off the marquee...
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So smoov!! :notworthy:
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I gotta admit--- your photos today gave me wood.
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I gotta admit--- your photos today gave me wood.
I second that....
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Wow! So many things to like about your cab! :cheers:
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I gotta admit--- your photos today gave me wood.
I gotta admit--- your photos today gave me wood.
I second that....
Well just make sure you guys can hold out until the end! ;)
So smoov!! :notworthy:
Thanks man!
Wow! So many things to like about your cab! :cheers:
Likewise! :)
Got my LEDs in from China today. I was hoping that I'd get my standoffs for my interface panel (that were ordered 2 weeks before these LEDs and from the states... :timebomb:), but I'll have to do what I can with what I have. Started preparing the LEDs for installation. I've only been soldering for just over a year (and only a little here and there), but man am I glad I had the practice! These solder points are so tiny! I hope I never come across anything smaller...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=185649)
Pretty surprised they still work after the solder job. 2 down, 10 to go...
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Nice solder job for a years practice. Your worst nightmare then would be these! SMD leds and components!!!!
(http://led.linear1.org/i/closeup2.jpg)
Try soldering onto those contacts hahaha
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Finished soldering the LEDs the other day. Finished installing the Micro-fit Molex connectors on them this morning. Installed the RGBs in the left CP (still need to install the plates on the right side). I made some little test harnesses to tap into existing button RGBs to test these LEDs with the PACLED64 and to see how even the ring would light. Turned out pretty good. There's a little bit of a "hot spot" on the top of the ring, but it's not too distracting. Love the fact that I can use these RGBs with the PACLED64 without any resistors. They're the same brightness as the IL-lumination RGBs that have resistors installed. These will be pretty slick once it's all wired up. For some reason, people not familiar with arcade machines try grasping the right joystick (P3 or P4) and use the lit buttons on the left (P1 or P2). Lighting the joysticks should help them out a little...
White up close.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=185764)
Green from player's perspective.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=185766)
Red from a distance.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=185768)
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I wont lie, I get giddy everytime I see an update to this thread. Looks AWESOME bro. How much for you to make me some LED'ed joystick light thingies? I just need 2 =D lol
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I wont lie, I get giddy everytime I see an update to this thread. Looks AWESOME bro.
:D Thanks man!
How much for you to make me some LED'ed joystick light thingies? I just need 2 =D lol
You mean the NephRingsTM? :lol I'll shoot you a PM a little later, got to get ready for work now.
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Love those. I am certainly going to steal that idea if I decide to rework my CP.
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This cab build is one of the reasons that I have been so motivated to get my arse in gear and build my own.
Such nice work!
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So what's left to do on that thing? Pop in the monitor, crimp the last 200 or so molex connectors, wire up 20 more LED controllers and fire it up! Crank up the black metal and Bob's yer uncle! Let the draw from the thousand RGB LED's cause a brown-out in your neighborhood.
>:D DO IT >:D
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Love those. I am certainly going to steal that idea if I decide to rework my CP.
Thanks! Feel free, I would love to see this on other cabs.
This is cab build is one of the reasons that I have been so motivated to get my arse in gear and build my own.
Such nice work!
Welcome to the forum, and thanks! Looking forward to seeing yours when you get it going.
So what's left to do on that thing? Pop in the monitor, crimp the last 200 or so molex connectors, wire up 20 more LED controllers and fire it up! Crank up the black metal and Bob's yer uncle! Let the draw from the thousand RGB LED's cause a brown-out in your neighborhood.
>:D DO IT >:D
;) I put the monitor back in a couple days ago. I've got about 7 harnesses to build, need to mount the LED-Wiz to the interface panel, finally get to wiring up the right side coin door, install the NephRingsTM and RGBs in the right side CP... and that's pretty much it build wise! Easy going from here on out!
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Some of you may be interested in this... All parts have been purchased to see this project to its intended completion. For shitsNgigs, this morning I added up all of my purchases, subtracted the parts I've sold from the machine, and took into account the many freebies. The grand total for the Two-Headed Beast comes to right around $850 +/- a couple of tokens. :o
Don't tell my wife.
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I don't think that's bad. I'm almost 100% positive I've spent over a grand on mine. That includes most of the tools I needed though. The router, mdf, and a few other pieces was $500 by themselves. Then there are the pieces I had to buy two of because of mistakes. Still I'm happy with what I spent. It's a fun project that also became a learning experience a few times.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using Tapatalk 2
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Some of you may be interested in this... All parts have been purchased to see this project to its intended completion. For shitsNgigs, this morning I added up all of my purchases, subtracted the parts I've sold from the machine, and took into account the many freebies. The grand total for the Two-Headed Beast comes to right around $850 +/- a couple of tokens. :o
Don't tell my wife.
That's not bad at all for all the custom stuff you have going on.
I ended up with around $700 in my $50 driving cab and it's still just a pc wheel bolted onto a cab.
(I've since spent hundreds more experimenting with different hacks and steering setups)
My next update to the current build will include a custom made air vent that only cost me around $30 and two evenings to make. :lol
(but it's light proof ;) )
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Been getting a little work done here and there lately, nothing really worth taking pics over though. My P1 U360 was starting to get stiff, I tore it apart and lubed it up with some silicone grease (good as new now!). I did the same to P2's U360 while I was installing the joystick lighting plates and LEDs on the right side CP. Got the last of my hardware last night from UPS. This afternoon I took the interface panel out of the cab to retrofit it with the new hardware and install the LED-Wiz. I swapped out the screws with nuts for threaded female-female standoffs, I'll also be ditching the nuts on the 1/4" screws that mount the panel inside the cab and will be using some of those spacers I have left over from mounting the cab lighting. This will make it much easier and quicker if I ever need to take a board out or the whole panel out (although I hope this will be the last time). Here's the interface panel (the LED-Wiz dwarfs the other boards)...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=186039)
All that's left now is wiring! :)
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Just wanted to add my comments.... This a great build from the quality of the craftsmanship, attention to detail in fittings, wiring and refurbishment to the choice of theme and lighting. I love the steel and black, it just works really well. Strong theme that still looks authentically Arcade. Top stuff.
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Steve Jobs would love this project. Gorgeous inside and out.
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Steve Jobs would love this project. Gorgeous inside and out.
yeah but Neph is actually doing something, not drinking fruit juice thinking it'll cure cancer.
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I'm surprised you let that LEDwiz anywhere near your unit, with those screw terminals. Where's the connector Love? 8)
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Just wanted to add my comments.... This a great build from the quality of the craftsmanship, attention to detail in fittings, wiring and refurbishment to the choice of theme and lighting. I love the steel and black, it just works really well. Strong theme that still looks authentically Arcade. Top stuff.
It's pretty awesome getting a compliment such as this from someone with a far greater skillset than myself. Thank you, you're work is truly inspiring!
Steve Jobs would love this project. Gorgeous inside and out.
Thanks man!
Steve Jobs would love this project. Gorgeous inside and out.
yeah but Neph is actually doing something, not drinking fruit juice thinking it'll cure cancer.
:lol
I'm surprised you let that LEDwiz anywhere near your unit, with those screw terminals. Where's the connector Love? 8)
Jimmy, you know me all too well! ;)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=186074)
I hate screw terminals. It's not pretty, but it'll do the trick. :)
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That looks tight, bro. :cheers:
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I seriously need to stay out of this thread, every time I come in here my wallet gets considerably lighter.
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I seriously need to stay out of this thread, every time I come in here my wallet gets considerably lighter.
You have to pay to get in?
Why didn't I think of that?!
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You have to pay to get in?
Why didn't I think of that?!
LOL, you were too busy on your mini stars wars awesomeness.
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Nephasth, this is quite a juicy thread and a juicier build! Fantastic work.
I think I read every post, so forgive me if I missed this, but I just came from your linked post on a double monitor thread and I was looking to see if you configured your 2HB to work as 2 separate MAME cabs.
Did you do this? If so, what is your configuration?
Again, great build! Hey, it can't hurt to keep hearing that. ; )
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Thanks for the comments guys!
I think I read every post, so forgive me if I missed this, but I just came from your linked post on a double monitor thread and I was looking to see if you configured your 2HB to work as 2 separate MAME cabs.
Did you do this? If so, what is your configuration?
Nope. One computer, one game running at a time.
Well the boy had his 16th birthday party last night. He had about 5 or 6 of his idiot friends over. They decided it would be a good idea to wrestle in the game room... and one of the Invaders got broke off the front! >:(
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Well the boy had his 16th birthday party last night. He had about 5 or 6 of his idiot friends over. They decided it would be a good idea to wrestle in the game room... and one of the Invaders got broke off the front! >:(
So will you be setting up a legal defense fund?
With the right lawyer, you can probably convince the jury that it was justifiable homicide. ;D
Seriously, though -- I hope that the injured invader makes a full recovery and quickly returns to his rightful place on your truly outstanding build.
Scott
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That sucks bro, hope it isn't too much work getting it back up to snuff. :cheers:
Oh, and happy father's day :duckhunt
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Did they fess up right away, or did you discover it this morning?
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So will you be setting up a legal defense fund?
With the right lawyer, you can probably convince the jury that it was justifiable homicide. ;D
Oh man, I was ---smurfing--- fuming...
Seriously, though -- I hope that the injured invader makes a full recovery and quickly returns to his rightful place on your truly outstanding build.
That sucks bro, hope it isn't too much work getting it back up to snuff. :cheers:
It's not horrible, the weld nuts that were JB Welded to the backside snapped off. The ---smurfy--- part is that it's the second invader down and to get to the backside to fix it properly I need to pull the monitor again!
Did they fess up right away, or did you discover it this morning?
Teenagers fess up to some ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---? Oh hell no, they tried to hide it. ---smurfing--- little shits.
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I remember once my 7 year old nephews were playing my cabs while I was in another room. I heard a crash so i ran in there to see what was up. They had knocked over the glass jar I used to hold tokens, shattering it on the tile floor. Did they stop playing to pick them up? Hell no! :lol
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Got my first order from Bob Roberts today. :applaud:
Two cap kits and flybacks for the Beast. The flyback on the left monitor was on its last leg, and the right monitor never looked as nice as the left. Did the kit and flyback on the left monitor today... holy ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- what a difference! The monitor looked good before, but now it looks ---smurfing--- awesome! ...but I dinked around with the horizontal width coil and burnt it up... ::) The width is almost good, but it's about 6 or 8 pixels too narrow... damn. I'll do the right monitor's caps and flyback soon... and I'll make sure not to use conductive tools on its width coil... :P
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Cap kit aftermath...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=186471)
Need to get a horizontal width coil for the left monitor and I have a vertical size pot coming for the right monitor. After those, they should be perfect.
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Wired up the LED-Wiz to the computer and the Invaders to the LED-Wiz this morning. Also upgraded from a 2.8 ghz Pentium D to a 3.4 ghz Pentium D today. I've been tidying up the wires inside the cab so it will make adding the additional harnesses much easier. Trucking along...
(http://s1205.photobucket.com/albums/bb436/nephasth/?action=view¤t=2012-06-23_17-08-41_306.mp4)
(http://s1205.photobucket.com/albums/bb436/nephasth/?action=view¤t=2012-06-23_17-22-44_673.mp4)
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Made the harnesses for the marquee earlier today. Quick vid of KI2 intro (first time running on the cab, no CHD before today):
(http://s1205.photobucket.com/albums/bb436/nephasth/?action=view¤t=2012-06-24_17-26-57_254.mp4)
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that's nothing short of AMAZING bro, kudos!
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Thanks man! Now I just need to stop being lazy and wire up the joystick lighting and right coin door...
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Good job. You've been moving right along. Love the lighting on this thing. :cheers:
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Man, anytime I feel like not wanting to work on my latest cab, I pull up this thread and get motivated. Thanks! Guess I know what I'm doing today. That cab is crazy awesome, and you go and add that killer lighting effect, I mean WOW dude! I honestly expect a robot to be playing this thing the next time I look at this thread. You suck by the way! Haha!
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Thanks for the comments guys! spkywlnt73, glad this thread could provide a little motivation! :cheers:
Got this little device in the mail today...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=186620)
I'm about 95% satisfied with my current video signal setup (two hacked VGA cables and a $1 Chinese VGA splitter). The small gauge wires of those hacked VGA cables have me slightly concerned. Saw this and thought I'd give it a go, I'll be able to split the signal right at the board and run 22 gauge black wire to the video signal headers on each monitor. I'll rig up a short test harness for this, and if it works just as good or better than my current setup, I'll mount this to my interface panel just above the LED-Wiz.
ETA: An angled view of the marquee showing the almost mirror reflection of the LEDs on the painted plexi. This is something I thought would bother me before I saw it, but I think it looks pretty cool...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=186625)
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kinda looks like a 3D pacman maze, great little "happy accident"
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Finally got around to wiring up that VGA breakout board. No change. So I'll be installing that soon. Planning on knocking out the joystick lighting harnesses on Monday... The little girl has a birthday party coming up, and I'd like to have this thing done by then... July 14th.
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Got some work done today. Mounted the VGA breakout board to the interface panel. Also got the left side harnesses done for the joystick lighting. Check out the Robotron layout...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=186828)
It won't be long now... said the monkey when they cut off his tail.
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Made the right side harnesses for joystick lighting this morning. Quick video showing all the lighting...
(http://s1205.photobucket.com/albums/bb436/nephasth/?action=view¤t=2012-07-02_11-10-08_224.mp4)
Still need to wire the right coin door, do some minor monitor work, and tidy up the wires.
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Outstanding work! :applaud:
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Did you notice an improvement in picture quality with the new vga splitter and heavier gauge wire?
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Did you notice an improvement in picture quality with the new vga splitter and heavier gauge wire?
Finally got around to wiring up that VGA breakout board. No change.
Nope. The picture quality is the same using either the cheap splitter or breakout board, and they're both good. The cap kits did the most for the image quality. My main concern was the sync wires of my hacked VGA cables, they're something like 32 gauge wire, and they're crimped in a pin designed for 22 gauge at the smallest. Also, even though Ultimarc says WG monitors can accept a signal voltage of 1V (what the ArcadeVGA produces), I believe a video amp is necessary. When only one monitor (either) is hooked up (with either the splitter, breakout board, or hacked VGA cable alone) the image on the monitor is unstable in that it throbs/jumps slightly. But when both monitors are hooked up, the image is perfectly stable. It's strange, but I'm glad it works out with my setup. One person I made a VGA breakout cable for also complained of a similar issue when used with his 25" arcade monitor and an ArcadeVGA. However, a friend of mine that is using one of my cables along with Soft15khz doesn't have this problem...
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That is one sexy control panel. Metal + lights = gorgeous.
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That is one sexy control panel. Metal + lights = gorgeous.
Thanks! :cheers:
Nothing exciting, but the CP harnesses are finally 100% complete. This pic shows how the LEDs are mounted for the joystick lighting too...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=187103)
96 wires + a USB cable (perhaps 2 USB cables in the future...) for each CP. :o
Started on the right coin door wiring, but just couldn't stay interested enough to finish it today...
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You are a BEAST, my friend! :cheers:
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Got back at it after a couple beers.
Coin door wiring.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=187119)
Right coin door lit up.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=187121)
At this point it's ready for the little girl's birthday party on the 14th. She's excited, and I don't have to worry about little girls wrestling in the game room... I hope. :)
If I find myself with extra time before then, I'll do the last of the monitor work.
Quick note, way back when I made the reject button inserts, I planned on adding a microswitch behind the reject buttons for an addtional credit button (hence "push to coin up"). But now that it has been played heavily (with tokens on the left side), I've decided to have a shifted coin button for each player instead. When someone (and I'll probably only bother explaining it to my family and close friends) wants to coin up fast, they can hold start and push button 1 to coin up. Start and button 2 is pause, and start with button 7 (P1 and P2 only) is exit back to the front end. All other admin controls are handled with the wireless keyboard...
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Man, everytime I think people have done as much as can be done with these cabs somebody like this comes along and tops it. This looks absolutely amazing. Love the marquee and the space invaders looks great too. Just awesome.
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Man, everytime I think people have done as much as can be done with these cabs somebody like this comes along and tops it. This looks absolutely amazing. Love the marquee and the space invaders looks great too. Just awesome.
Many thanks! I had a vision before this all started, and the scope of that vision has been realized. Totally happy with how this has turned out.
The little girl's party went off without a hitch. Yesterday I pulled the right monitor's chassis. Removed the V-Position pot and found it to bench test perfectly. Was a little perplexed. Looked the board over, found a few cold joints and reflowed those and reinstalled the original pot. Threw the chassis back in and fired her up. Monitor adjusted out perfectly! :) Today I pulled the left monitor's chassis. Figured I'd look her over real good while she was out, no cold joints. Removed and replaced the horizontal width coil. Threw her back in and fired her up. Came up great! No adjustment to the new horizontal width coil needed. I pulled up Primal Rage and went into the service menu and brought up the monitor test screens. Everything looked good, except the left monitor has a slight convergence problem on the lower 1/3 of the screen when viewing the violet test screen. Everything looks fine on that monitor during normal play, and I've never noticed that until I ran the test today. I'll leave it as is for now, I might fiddle with it down the road, but I might not.
Still need to wire up that VGA breakout board and run the new video signal harnesses. Just a little cleaning up on the inside after that and she's 99%. Started on a video for this, I might hold off on finishing it until I add a couple more things... AimTraks. Really been having the itch for some gun games lately. But I don't have a spare $200 laying around just yet, so it may be a little while.
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Still need to wire up that VGA breakout board and run the new video signal harnesses. Just a little cleaning up on the inside after that and she's 99%. Started on a video for this, I might hold off on finishing it until I add a couple more things... AimTraks. Really been having the itch for some gun games lately. But I don't have a spare $200 laying around just yet, so it may be a little while.
Since you're rocking CRTs why are you going with AimTracks? Even tho they are out of production you can still come across ACT Labs CRT light guns. They work as close to arcade as we can get right now. I have Aimtrak, it's a good system, but I think it would be a shame to put a sensor bar on a CRT when you can go with classic flash.
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Regarding the ACT Labs guns...
The PC USB Gun will not work with LCD, plasma, HDTV, projectors, scan converters or conventional televisions. It will only work for CRT-based computer monitors. However, the PC TV USB Gun will work with CRT based TV’s providing that your Video Card has an S-Video output.
AND
The PC USB Light Gun will work with most Arcade Monitor as long as it has uses a VGA connection.
My monitors are Wells Gardner K7000 series and don't have VGA input. The signal is ran to them with essentially a hacked VGA cable, but even the signal is modified (AVGA), so I don't think those would work. But I may be wrong. And if I am, the dual screens may pose an issue. They have dual gun support, but nothing is mentioned about dual screens. I know the AimTraks will work, and it's just a few small holes in my bezels. And the AimTraks look pretty badass too...
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Well rats.
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FYI, the s-vid act labs guns will work simulatneously on 2 TVs using a basic splitter.
I ran my my driving cab off my main emulator setup before I built a separate PC for it and couldn't help but tinker with things like that since they were right next to each other.
They were even different size TVs. The resolution and refresh rate was the same, therefore the same pixel is being drawn on both screens at the same time. That's what the light guns are picking up....which part of the white screen is being drawn the instant you pull the trigger.
I don't think the dual screens would be anything to worry about. Not sure about the signal.
Processing like line doubling and interlacing definitely screw them up.
EDIT: Not that I think you would ever ditch real arcade monitors for an s-vid input to an old tv, but thought I'd mention it for the benefit of anyone else building a two headed beast.
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Thanks for the info, and it's good to hear someone messes around with stuff like that. I wouldn't mind trying them out, just don't want to drop the cash on 'em to find out they don't work… :-\
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I'm just holding my breath for a guy to make a board that can let me use my Happ optical guns with MAME.
Have been since about '03 but still holding.
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I'm just holding my breath for a guy to make a board that can let me use my Happ optical guns with MAME.
Have been since about '03 but still holding.
http://parts.globalvr.com/ (http://parts.globalvr.com/)
search for
"usb2gun I/O PCB"
I can't remember whether you're supposed to buy the one for the conversion or dedicated cab. :P
One person on this board bought it, but couldn't get it working.
The gun shows up as a joystick.
I think someone with a better understanding of the sensetivity and deadzone settings in MAME might have been able to get it working.
They sold it to another member here, who hasn't been heard from in a while.
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I can't remember whether you're supposed to buy the one for the conversion or dedicated cab. :P
Depends if your cab has a JAMMA harness. Looks like if it doesn't, you should pick up the dedicated version... But even if it does, and you're running a J-PAC... may be an issue...
I've got a line on a couple ACT Labs guns, if they can be had for a reasonable sum I'll give 'em a shot.
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I'm just holding my breath for a guy to make a board that can let me use my Happ optical guns with MAME.
Have been since about '03 but still holding.
http://parts.globalvr.com/ (http://parts.globalvr.com/)
search for
"usb2gun I/O PCB"
I can't remember whether you're supposed to buy the one for the conversion or dedicated cab. :P
One person on this board bought it, but couldn't get it working.
The gun shows up as a joystick.
I think someone with a better understanding of the sensetivity and deadzone settings in MAME might have been able to get it working.
They sold it to another member here, who hasn't been heard from in a while.
Wrote that in a hurry as I was leaving work....
Here is the relevant thread: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=114406.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=114406.0)
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Yeah, I remember that thread from my lurker phase. I don't know if I'm ready to pull the trigger on 300 dollars worth of "I sure hope this works"
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Holy ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---, 10 pages! :dizzy:
I wired up that VGA breakout board this morning (boring stuff, I know). Went really smooth and it looks a lot cleaner inside the cab without those hacked VGA cables. Here's a shot of the rat's nest that is my interface panel:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=187618)
I'm going to run longer power harnesses for the monitors as well as their earth ground, so that they can be zip tied back out of the way. Once that's done, I'll put up some pics of under the hood...
I just posted the Beast over on the Hyperspin forums the other day. I took some new pics to post over there and thought I'd drop 'em off here for those that don't frequent those boards.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=187504)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=187466)
The last one was taken while the HS wheel was on the SNES bootleg for Killer Instinct (and before my last monitor repairs). Only because it lights up the majority of all the buttons and joysticks. Those are also what I have set for MAME's default control colors.
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Wow! I really... really like this build! Everything looks top notch. But even more than the quality and creativity of your cab... it just looks like it would be a blast to play with a friend!
Excellent job! :cheers:
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Looks like it's ready for a reveal vid. 8)
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I think I see a short in the black wire. >:D
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=187618)
Seriously though, that is an impressive wiring job. It looks like a jet fighters wiring harness (only in black).
(http://www.safran-na.com/IMG/jpg/cablage-2.jpg)
My idea of cord control is a well placed zip-tie here or there. At least I know now not to post the underside of my control panel. :notworthy:
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Wow! I really... really like this build! Everything looks top notch. But even more than the quality and creativity of your cab... it just looks like it would be a blast to play with a friend!
Excellent job! :cheers:
Seriously though, that is an impressive wiring job. It looks like a jet fighters wiring harness (only in black).
Thanks a lot for the kind words guys! :cheers:
I decided to make a little video showing the Beast in operation. It's by no means perfect (hey, it's a Beast), but it has come a long way. I've just started messing around with different cabinet animations and really need to take some time to site down and make some new ones and some more game specific ones. Right now I only have a game specific cabinet animation for Mortal Kombat. I just threw something together pretty quick to see how it works. The video quality sucks and the volume is low, so you may want to turn up the volume on your end (no devil music this time :angel:). But this will give you a good idea what the cab is like during use.
(http://s1205.photobucket.com/albums/bb436/nephasth/?action=view¤t=RunningTheBeast.mp4)
Looks like it's ready for a reveal vid. 8)
Getting closer. This isn't the "reveal" video. ;)
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As so many others have said, this really is an inspirational project. The button "light rings" are the coolest use of LEDs on a cabinet I've seen yet, I'm definitely going to steal that idea for my cab refresh.
One (unrelated) question... How do you manage the dual screens? Are you mirroring the the output, or only using the second screen side for dual screen games?
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How do you manage the dual screens? Are you mirroring the the output, or only using the second screen side for dual screen games?
Nep's running the same video signal to both screens using a VGA splitter described in his posts here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,108719.msg1284471.html#msg1284471) and here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,108719.msg1286735.html#msg1286735).
Scott
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As so many others have said, this really is an inspirational project. The button "light rings" are the coolest use of LEDs on a cabinet I've seen yet, I'm definitely going to steal that idea for my cab refresh.
One (unrelated) question... How do you manage the dual screens? Are you mirroring the the output, or only using the second screen side for dual screen games?
Thanks miller! As PL1 said, both screens are mirrored. The second side is actually the side players 2 and 4 play on. I'm glad I laid the players out like this, otherwise I don't think the second side would have hardly got any play.
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Wow! I really... really like this build! Everything looks top notch. But even more than the quality and creativity of your cab... it just looks like it would be a blast to play with a friend!
Excellent job! :cheers:
Seriously though, that is an impressive wiring job. It looks like a jet fighters wiring harness (only in black).
Thanks a lot for the kind words guys! :cheers:
I decided to make a little video showing the Beast in operation. It's by no means perfect (hey, it's a Beast), but it has come a long way. I've just started messing around with different cabinet animations and really need to take some time to site down and make some new ones and some more game specific ones. Right now I only have a game specific cabinet animation for Mortal Kombat. I just threw something together pretty quick to see how it works. The video quality sucks and the volume is low, so you may want to turn up the volume on your end (no devil music this time :angel:). But this will give you a good idea what the cab is like during use.
(http://s1205.photobucket.com/albums/bb436/nephasth/?action=view¤t=RunningTheBeast.mp4)
Looks like it's ready for a reveal vid. 8)
Getting closer. This isn't the "reveal" video. ;)
Looks awesome great job! Just wondering what USB devices you have that are conflicting with HS
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Thanks!
My USB controllers are conflicting with HS. I've got a Lono2 and 2 U360s. The problem goes away when all three are unplugged, but when I plug in just one (doesn't matter which) HS stutters on startup. Apparently it's a known issue.
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Thanks!
My USB controllers are conflicting with HS. I've got a Lono2 and 2 U360s. The problem goes away when all three are unplugged, but when I plug in just one (doesn't matter which) HS stutters on startup. Apparently it's a known issue.
Thats ashame I hope HS guru's are on it. I was thinking about getting u360 but i might hold off. the last time my HS stuttered like that is when i had a my weak AMD system sure enough threw that away what a waste :lol Been running 200% ever since i upgrade to a i5 core 2500k :cheers: Good Luck!! and nice work!
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The HS team isn't working on HS anymore. But they are working on HS2 and supposedly this issue has been corrected. Now it would just get released... :-\
The stuttering doesn't really bother me. I turn the machine on and go play a few games of skeeball while I'm waiting for it to do its thing.
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Did you ever get a light gun to test out?
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No, they ended up being composite guns, not VGA. AimTraks someday...
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I love that video. I am loving those LEDs. That is perfect with the two monitor setup doing multiplayer.
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Hey Neph
One thing I noticed in the Vid is that your button led's seem to fade in and out +while+ windows is booting up.
I must have missed something in your build thread. Do you have an arduino or something controlling the LEDS on boot? Or is that some feature of the particular LED controller you're using?
And definitely great use of LEDs on those invader cutouts. I love that effect!
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I love that video. I am loving those LEDs. That is perfect with the two monitor setup doing multiplayer.
And definitely great use of LEDs on those invader cutouts. I love that effect!
Thanks for the compliments guys! :cheers:
Hey Neph
One thing I noticed in the Vid is that your button led's seem to fade in and out +while+ windows is booting up.
I must have missed something in your build thread. Do you have an arduino or something controlling the LEDS on boot? Or is that some feature of the particular LED controller you're using?
Hmm, I guess I never discussed that animation in this thread. I use PACLED64s for my CP lighting. One feature of Andy's LED controllers is that they have the ability to run a programmed animation without the presence of a computer, as long as they have a power source. The animation you're seeing while the computer is booting up is the stock animation programmed into the PACLED64s. The end user can program in their own animation if they so wish. Can't do this with my cabinet lighting though, as they're ran off of an LED-Wiz...
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I have great respect for the LED work and others do (Santorini comes to mind) however I can't seem to bring myself to include it in any designs I do. Perhaps I'll eventually do a low boy with no art that is centered around lighting. It seems that when you mix lights and art one over powers the other. Yours, as with other great lit cabs, really highlights the lighting and form. Kuddos for finding the right mix.
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One feature of Andy's LED controllers is that they have the ability to run a programmed animation without the presence of a computer, as long as they have a power source. The animation you're seeing while the computer is booting up is the stock animation programmed into the PACLED64s. The end user can program in their own animation if they so wish. Can't do this with my cabinet lighting though, as they're ran off of an LED-Wiz...
Ah, that would explain it. Yeah, i'm using 3 ledwiz 32's so no cool power on anims for me. (unless it convert to a pacled, I guess).
Good to know, in any case. Thanks!
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FINISHED!
Finally got around to cleaning up the wiring inside the cab...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=271490)
Here's a slideshow style video covering the progress of the project:
http://youtu.be/ffzTkstqFlw (http://youtu.be/ffzTkstqFlw)
Somehow, the last part of the credits got cutoff during the conversion of the video, here are the ones that were left out:
Mamefreak2
MacGyver
Millercentral
Mytymaus007
Patm95
RandyT
PBJ... RIP
And the rest of BYOAC!
The Beast is finally finished. :) There will be no more updates to this thread, unless I ever get around to adding guns to the cab. Thanks again everyone!
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:cheers:
And I made the credits!! :woot
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no love for me :(
looks good bro!
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no love for me :(
looks good bro!
You're 3rd on the list under Inspiration and Motivation! ;)
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This cab is an amazing conversion with epic wiring. :notworthy: :notworthy:
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This cab is an amazing conversion with epic wiring. :notworthy: :notworthy:
Thanks selfie! :cheers:
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I've said it before, but this is a top-shelf build. :cheers:
I like to show my son the amazing cabs on this forum, but I can't show him this one. If I did, he would wheel his back into the shop and demand I build another and join the two together. ;D
Again... great job!
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Truly a work of art! As been said many times, the metal CPs + LEDs is inspired. Love the summary video too! :cheers:
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Finished? :laugh2:
They are NEVER finished. >:D
jk, EPIC build!!!!!!!
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no love for me :(
looks good bro!
You're 3rd on the list under Inspiration and Motivation! ;)
oh yeah there I am! missed it the first time. I got left off of Pixelhuggers's credits for not doing anything, I didnt want it to happen again, lol
Im almost as happy as you are that the cab is done, HALL OF FAME for lightning and 2 monitor set ups IMO
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Nice vid.
And even nicer cabinet! :applaud:
Those glowing invaders are the perfect touch, and they work even while the cab is booting. :notworthy:
Pure Sweetness.
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I've said it before, but this is a top-shelf build. :cheers:
I like to show my son the amazing cabs on this forum, but I can't show him this one. If I did, he would wheel his back into the shop and demand I build another and join the two together. ;D
Again... great job!
:lol The reactions kids get from seeing this the first time make it all worth it. Many thanks on the compliments, but I do feel like I cheated a little since build required practically zero woodworking skills...
Truly a work of art! As been said many times, the metal CPs + LEDs is inspired. Love the summary video too! :cheers:
Thanks! Early on I planned on CPOs, but after getting the CPs from DMEN, there was no way I could cover up that beautiful metal. :cheers:
Finished? :laugh2:
They are NEVER finished. >:D
jk, EPIC build!!!!!!!
;D Nope, but you got to draw the line somewhere. It's been "done" for months and getting used frequently, but the loose ends have finally been tied up. Looking forward to tweaking the Beast down the road though! ;)
oh yeah there I am! missed it the first time. I got left off of Pixelhuggers's credits for not doing anything, I didnt want it to happen again, lol
Im almost as happy as you are that the cab is done, HALL OF FAME for lightning and 2 monitor set ups IMO
I wouldn't forget ya! I'm still wanting to copy you stuffing large monitors in tight spaces... 8)
Nice vid.
And even nicer cabinet! :applaud:
Those glowing invaders are the perfect touch, and they work even while the cab is booting. :notworthy:
Pure Sweetness.
Thanks drventure! Just a quick note, the invaders don't light during the booting process, they're on the LED-Wiz.
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Thanks drventure! Just a quick note, the invaders don't light during the booting process, they're on the LED-Wiz.
Doh. I meant the button lights. Regardless, cool effect.
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:notworthy: Great job! Looks amazing!
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:applaud: :applaud: :notworthy:
Absolutely amazing work Nephasth. Has it really been 2 years? I still remember asking you for the Run and Gun 2 board when you were trying to sell them. I think this is one of the best (if not the best) wiring job I've ever seen. Thanks for including me in the credits.
On to the next one ;)
:cheers:
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Omg. That is absolutely amazing. Sigh...
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Really good stuff. My favorite 4 player I've seen.
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!nice!
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This is some very nice work, I was a huge Tournament Cyberball player back in the day and I have to say...seeing the cabinet come back to life in this fashion is incredible. Very nice work!
-AK
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:notworthy: ...Wow... just... wow... :notworthy:
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Great stuff indeed man! Inspiration for a great project!
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Thanks to everyone for the positive feedback! :cheers:
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Really great cabinet. Very original concept too!
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Looks great!
I always wanted to do something like that with two separate displays, plus the benefit of having extra room to play without the other player looking at your button combos.
Truly inspirational! :applaud:
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Awesome concept, and a really nice build. Such a better idea than the 5ft wide control panels you see on the Interwebs, jammed full of sticks and buttons.
Congrats on the UCA award! :cheers:
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Run and Gun is one of my fav games of all time and I am jealous you have the cabinet!!!! But damn...that lights off shot is just amazing! Nice work.
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Run and Gun is one of my fav games of all time and I am jealous you have the cabinet!!!! But damn...that lights off shot is just amazing! Nice work.
its a Cyberball cab. They were just converted to Run and Gun a lot.
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Patience paid off! Thanks to fellow member markronz, the Beast just got lethal! >:D
I've been wanting to add guns to this machine for over a year. Unfortunately, the price has been holding me back on pulling the trigger (pun intended) on a set of AimTraks. I've also been considering EMS TopGuns and Act Labs Guns. I haven't been too impressed with the reviews the EMS TopGuns have gotten, and if I'm going to have to add LED bars to my monitors I'd rather go with AimTraks. And in my casual search for guns, I've only come across Act Labs of the TV, game port, and GS variety; none of which would work or integrate nicely into the Two-Headed Beast. And then last week the exact Act Labs set up I've been looking for popped up in the B/S/T forum. The price was right for me to take a shot (pun intended again) at them and see if they'd work with my dual monitor setup.
I got the guns a couple days ago, and was excited to try 'em out. After inspecting them and fixing a pin on one of the MiniDIN connectors, I had one hooked up and ready to fire up MAME. Setting it up in MAME was pretty hit and miss (another gun pun), and took a while to get it just right between mouse and lightgun settings. But I got it working, and it shot on both screens! However, the trigger was stiff as hell, and it was the same with the other gun. After dealing with stiff U360s, I have silicone grease on hand and thought I'd give it a shot on the guns. After lubing the trigger slides, the triggers were much more smooth and easier to actuate. Now I could get through more than half a level of Area 51 without my hand hurting like hell.
Just hooked up the second tonight and what a relief it is to find that both guns work on the dual screens! Here's the Beast in setup/test mode.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=292448)
Area 51 was one of my absolute favorites when I was kid. ;D
Things to do:
- I've got a couple MiniDIN panel mount connectors and MiniDIN extension cables on the way. I'm planning on putting a connector on the underside of each CP so the guns can be unplugged easily and stored inside the cab when not in use, and not have any cables coming out of the coin doors while playing.
- Mount the VGA boxes inside the cab to a more permanent location.
- Add another USB PCI card to the computer.
- Add all the gun games to my HyperSpin list.
- Add the laser disc gun games to the Beast.
- Create some custom MAME "crosshairs". Since the Act Labs guns only move the crosshairs after a shot is fired, I want to make some that look like bullet holes.
- Enjoy. ;D
Again, HUGE thanks to markronz! This is badass!
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- Create some custom MAME "crosshairs". Since the Act Labs guns only move the crosshairs after a shot is fired, I want to make some that look like bullet holes.
You can turn the crosshairs off in mame.ini for true to the original behavior.
When you calibrate in the service menu, the game itself will still show you where the shots are going.
Same thing goes for Model 2 Emulator.
For the Digital Leisure games, I replaced the crosshair png with a transparent square of the same size and name.
I don't think that's necessary if you run them on the daphne-singe emulator. (I preferred the look of the pc version)
I have an odd question for you. In Windows, does the mouse pointer snap exactly to where the guns are fired?
My old ray-guns which are permanently wired to their boxes do perfectly. I picked up a set of the small silver pistols that use the newer box which can be disconnected and they register 2" high. It can be calibrated out in MAME, but I'd like to confirm that this is not normal behavior for the newer guns.
YOU ARE GONNA LOVE THE GUN GAMES! :applaud:
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I have an odd question for you. In Windows, does the mouse pointer snap exactly to where the guns are fired?
My old ray-guns which are permanently wired to their boxes do perfectly. I picked up a set of the small silver pistols that use the newer box which can be disconnected and they register 2" high. It can be calibrated out in MAME, but I'd like to confirm that this is not normal behavior for the newer guns.
In Windows, the mouse pointer snaps to the same location as the crosshairs would in MAME. On both of these, the Y axis will calibrate pretty much on the nuts, but the X axis will be a little high. On one the bottom of the MAME crosshairs rest on the top of the sights, on the other gun, about 1/4" higher. I think I might be able to fix this by bending the sensors slightly.
You can turn the crosshairs off in mame.ini for true to the original behavior.
When you calibrate in the service menu, the game itself will still show you where the shots are going.
Same thing goes for Model 2 Emulator.
For the Digital Leisure games, I replaced the crosshair png with a transparent square of the same size and name.
I don't think that's necessary if you run them on the daphne-singe emulator. (I preferred the look of the pc version)
I want to keep the crosshairs in MAME due to the guns shooting slightly high, so it can help with shot adjustment. If I can ever get the guns calibrated on the nuts I'll turn 'em off. Attached is what I've come up with so far, haven't tried 'em out in MAME yet though.
YOU ARE GONNA LOVE THE GUN GAMES! :applaud:
:cheers:
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just when I thought I couldnt any get more jelly.............
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On one the bottom of the MAME crosshairs rest on the top of the sights, on the other gun, about 1/4" higher. I think I might be able to fix this by bending the sensors slightly.
I think bending the sensor is the way to go. I don't recall if the Digital Leisure games even have a calibration screen. IIRC, they just use the system mouse pointer as-is. I've been meaning to take these apart and try just that, but haven't got around to it yet. It's not that pressing since they are just for spares/future projects.
It sounds like quality control may have dipped on later models.
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Fired it up to shoot some baddies with the little girl... the damn gun IDs change after system restart! This might be resolved with the USB PCI card, if not, I'll be checking out drventure's utility.
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the damn gun IDs change after system restart!
Did you plug/unplug them or swap them?
Sounds a lot like you might need controllerremap, but if they're wired and you won't be disconnecting them, you shouldn't. However, I've never worked with those guns so no telling without a bunch of testing.
Awesome job, BTW, I really want to add guns to my cabinet. One of these days!
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Fired it up to shoot some baddies with the little girl... the damn gun IDs change after system restart! This might be resolved with the USB PCI card, if not, I'll be checking out drventure's utility.
I've never had that issue. I've reversed them after having them disconnected, but never had to redo anything on the PC.
Are you using a USB hub?
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Did you plug/unplug them or swap them?
Nope. :-\
Are you using a USB hub?
Nope. I've got one connected to a USB PCI card, and the other connected direct to the I/O panel.
Awesome job, BTW, I really want to add guns to my cabinet. One of these days!
Thanks man!
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Well, just ran into a deal breaker with the Act Labs guns. The screens will display solid white if the guns are disconnected from the VGA boxes. :-\
AimTraks someday I guess.
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Well, just ran into a deal breaker with the Act Labs guns. The screens will display solid white if the guns are disconnected from the VGA boxes. :-\
AimTraks someday I guess.
Why do you need the guns removable? Is there an issue with making a mount on the sides of the cab, or run it just at the base of the underside of the CP and secure it under the CP area when not in use. Aimtraks are nice, a great product, but don't hold a candle to these imo.
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Well, just ran into a deal breaker with the Act Labs guns. The screens will display solid white if the guns are disconnected from the VGA boxes. :-\
AimTraks someday I guess.
Why do you need the guns removable? Is there an issue with making a mount on the sides of the cab, or run it just at the base of the underside of the CP and secure it under the CP area when not in use. Aimtraks are nice, a great product, but don't hold a candle to these imo.
I don't want the guns holstered to the side of the cab when not in use. I want to store the guns inside the cab when not in use. Also, machine gun in area 51 doesn't work with these. You have to pull, release, and pull the trigger again due to the "absolutle" mouse position these guns use.
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Well, just ran into a deal breaker with the Act Labs guns. The screens will display solid white if the guns are disconnected from the VGA boxes. :-\
AimTraks someday I guess.
Why do you need the guns removable? Is there an issue with making a mount on the sides of the cab, or run it just at the base of the underside of the CP and secure it under the CP area when not in use. Aimtraks are nice, a great product, but don't hold a candle to these imo.
I don't want the guns holstered to the side of the cab when not in use. I want to store the guns inside the cab when not in use. Also, machine gun in area 51 doesn't work with these. You have to pull, release, and pull the trigger again due to the "absolutle" mouse position these guns use.
Well, if you decide to sell the ACT labs setup can I call dibs?
Dibs.
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You'd be second in line. Yotsuya has already expressed interest.
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You've been chuckblocked!
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I decided I need to finish my working but unfinished cabinet, and found this thread (don't know how I missed it earlier) looking for examples of LED button wiring.
:o :applaud: :dizzy:
Incredible job. You've inspired me to buy micro-fit connectors and start wiring them up. The wiring in my cab(s) has always been my biggest issue, but I think I can deal with it if I approach it this way.
Awesome, just awesome.
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Yeah, Neph inspired me to learn how to use crimpers and Molex. Making your own harnesses is the best thing ever.
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Yeah, Neph inspired me to learn how to use crimpers and Molex. Making your own harnesses is the best thing ever.
I think getting someone else to make it for you is slightly better.
I worked in a factory for like decade, so I dont have the dexterity in my hands and fingers that I used to.
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Anyone want to buy this thing?
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How much is the free shipping, and will it fit in my basement?
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I would love to, can you get me a price on insured shipping to the UK and a 1KW drop down converter so I can use it when it finally arrives. Upon arrive it will need to be carried up 3 flights of stairs and then fit through a doorway only 23.5" wide. I got about $499 total to spend, It should also come with free sweets. :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: Good luck with the sale.