The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: rablack97 on September 10, 2009, 11:17:45 pm
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Hello All,
I am new to this hobby and just wanted to share my ideas for my new future cabinet. I am still in the process of R&D.
Robert Downey's - Arcade Odyssey - has inspired me to take on this massive project. For now, here is the artwork I plan on using for the cab.
1. The control panel will be lit with novagem blue led buttons (end trails of the lightning bolts), trackball will be blue illuminescent.
2. The square cutouts in the CP will house 2 80mm blue led fans w/ custom fan covers, both will have on/off switches on sided of the CP. (built in A/C) :lol
3. The cabinet will also have the ability to be turned on and off via a keyring remote switch........
4. Speakers in the upper panel will be neon blue.
5. There will be a plexiglass window below coin box to show off a neon blue illuminescent subwoofer inside the cabinet.
6. The dragon art will be used as side art with Knievel's blue neon ring idea.
Also, I have never used Photoshop, this was first try at creating artwork. So cut me a little slack on the professional look that a few other masters have exhibited on this site.
More to come as the project grows.
Any thoughts or comments are highly appreciated.
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Artwork is leaps better than anything I can do in Photoshop.
The fans are a neat idea. Just clean the construction sawdust out before any of your friends playtest it. :laugh2:
So a keyring remote will turn everything on and off? You plan to still shut down the PC properly, right?
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Yes, it will do a proper shutdown.....
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Rablack97,
Welcome and fantastic job. I am doing R&D on my current project so will be interesting to follow yours. I think we are headed in a similar direction based on your inspirations.
I really love the fantasy art. Let me know if you find those Neon rings anywhere in stock...I am looking for green/yellow ;)
:cheers:
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Thanks Epyx,
Here are a few sites I saved as favorites, not sure of stock....
This one in particular has yellow and green 15" inch.......Which is probably what I will go with, to show more of the art. No stock for the 12"
http://mobile-emotions.com/neonspeakrin.html
http://www.caraddons.com/Catalog/subpages/Liteglow_neon_fx.htm
Green 12"
http://www.zalezauto.com/plasmag/pled.html
These guys offer all colors in 10"...
Good luck
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Thanks rablack97...perfect!
I had seen one of those sites and they indicated they were no longer stocking after "out of stock" status...but I will grab a green.
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I really like the fans idea, that's great!
Are you sure the angle of the CP is going to be enough to blow against the players ? Or are you doing something different ?
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You know, that got me to thinking
I picked up a couple of Logitech "chillstream" USB controllers a while back.
(http://www.logitech.com/repository/66/jpg/257.1.0.jpg)
They're really nice, but I think my favorite part of them is the little fan and the vents that you can turn on to blow air over your hands while you play.
They work surprisingly well.
So, instead of fan cutouts like that, drill several artistically placed holes in and around the joysticks and buttons, and put fans underneath (maybe with some ducting or channels) that would blow air out the holes to keep your hands cool while you played. Accentuate them with the CP art and you'd almost not realize they were holes, maybe backlit them with some RGB led's or something.
Regardless, though, I really like your artwork!
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that's a great idea drventure, but oh how that will just add fuel to the flames of "how do I layout / space my buttons" :cry:
Seriously tho, that would very cool. I wonder if you could curve up some vents (like 90 degree funnels) and just blow air "down" the CP itself.
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Yeah, I could see that, maybe put some hoods over the fans at the top of the panel to redirect the air to blow down across the panel.
Yep, that'd work too.
Good stuff.
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Oh gees, I just thought of adding dry ice to the mix for that Halloween party! Haha soo sweet!
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Thank you all for your comments.
I want to keep it fairly simple, and drilling extra holes in the CP will I think take away from the beauty of the creators artwork. That will also limit the creativity of button placements.
I know you have seen the guts of a CP, theres not much more room for channelling etc.
The concept I have in mind, will be to create to vent holes on both sides of the CP as intakes, of course dressed up with some sort of mesh. All I want is some sort of circulation in between the monitor, which produces heat and the player.
Having a direct flow of wind into a players eyes would get pretty irritating, and air flow on the hands considering the spacing of the joystick and buttons would be kind of hard to accomplish, not to mention it feels kinds of weird to have air of that magnitude blowing across your fingers while playing.
Hopefully, the placement will just create a small area of fresh air for the player's. I used to be an arcade MK, Streetfighter junkie......and I remember having to step away because of the heat generated and lack of air circulation.
Keep the comments coming though.....Jotting down everything......
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Yeah, you definitely wouldn't want anything powerful enough to blow into people's faces. That'd be really annoying.
But it's surprising just how little airflow you need across your hands to keep them cool.
At any rate, it's an intriguing idea i hadn't seen before.
good stuff!
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Check out a new start up video i created this weekend for fun.................
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6O7-7dMNtXU&layer_token=d2e3e23de7fd1c52[/youtube]
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Cool stuff. I like all the effects but it seems a little long to me. About 15-25 seconds would be about the most I'd want to have to go through when I start things up.
I really like that raining sparks effect though!
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Noted.....I guess I had browsed a few other startups and they were stepping on the minute mark. I got so into it with the ideas, next thing I knew I surpassed it. I might cut it down to just the last part, and cut out the beginning for everyday use. This one is for one of those 1st time seeing it super shows ;D
Pretty good for my first one though, I'm still getting used to all these authenticity arcade spce #'s :dizzy:
Thanks for the input.
FYI, Picked up more goodies today, I got my led fans, woohoo. Will be testing this weekend for mounting ideas and noise levels....
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Check out a new start up video i created this weekend for fun...............
Sorry I'm off topic here but I wanted to congratulate your use of Gandalf's death scene music from the Fellowship of the Ring.
Beautiful :'(
Haha in all seriousness though nicely done.
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Today I received a contraption that supposed would be able to power up and power down my computer via a remote transmitter, as skeptical as I was the darn thing works. I can now power up and safely power down my PC from 30 ft away.......woohooooo
Kick ass idea #1 is now crushed.............. 8)
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In case anyone wated to know.
The easiest way to get this done is with a Logisys Wireless Remote 16506 MultiFunction Panel -5.25"
They only come in silver, I couldnt find a black one.
They are hard to find as logisys no longer makes them. They are about $45.00, I got lucky a site called XOXIDE.com went out of business recently and i got it for $22.00 online.
It's a bay that can be installed like a dvd drive etc. Wiring it to your mother board is easy if your computer saavy.
Install the bay and follow the wiring instructions and make sure you have an extra slot space in the back of your PC, you wont need the pin slots just a space, as you have to install an antenna, sort of like a wireless internet card.
The bay has USB and firewall inputs and it can also control fan speed and monitor CPU temps with bright blue analog readouts.
Once installed, just click the key ring transmitter and it fires up the PC, click it again and it does a safe power down, not the immediate shutdown that screws up your PC.
You can also wire to reset if your pc has this feature.
One warning though, the adaptor that it comes with is a 20 to 24 pin adaptor that goes in between your power supply and your motherboard. If your power supply is a 24 pin you will with need to do some rewiring.
example
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Logisys/Panel/4.html
Another route, which i am considering is this.....
http://www.digitalconnection.com/products/remote/imon_inside.asp
This little device would mount nicely in an admin panel, and it has volume control, and other cool function. So this thing will take care of power off/on, and volume.
I will probably get one just to test it out, no to expensive, they have a few other models on the site, so pick one that suits your needs.
Hope this helps,
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Dibbs, I'm making a Mame cab entirely of ice. that outta keep the mitts cool...lol
kidding, i like the idea, and the artwork, i like the fan idea and think it will be great!
look forward to more.....on this...
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Hello All,
This is not a dead project, I just can't find the time to post every single update to my cab.
Here are a few pics of what's happened in the past few months.
I have the cab sides and base cut, it's gonna be a monster 34" wide, CP is 40" in width.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=135920;image)
The more updated version already has 12" holes cut out for 12" neon blue speaker rings (Knievel's neon mame concept).
Instead of a graphic for the cutout's, I'm going to with 2 12" blue Lumin disk's
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=135916;image)
I updated my CP art.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=135914;image)
I decided not to go with a monitor and go with a 32" WS LCD TV. Reason? Size, cheaper, great resolution, and I'm no naked arcade monitor expert if the thing breaks down. Those things scare me.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=135912;image)
I have the CP cutout and I have test mounted my fans. Funny thing about this CP, this is #2, the first was all done and I had cut my T-molding slot only to find out the darn thing was flipped the wrong way. Buttons and J-stick holes were facing the wrong way. :banghead: So as you all know that small 1/8 of an inch for the plexi glas was on the bottom of the CP instead of the top. :hissy: So recutting the slot would have made it too big for the t-molding. So I now have a wonderful template for any future builds. :applaud:
Anyway back to the fans.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=135910;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=135908;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=135907;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=135900;image)
I have also cut some slots for t-molding for the fans as well, not insalled yet, but it should look good with the light behind it and hide the mfd in the circle.
Here are the fan controls that will control the air flow, they were setup to fit in a PCI bay slot so I had to cut them down, you ever try to cut something this small with a jigsaw. It sucks, hence the jagged edges. I just started using my mortising bit in my router and my fractional measuring stinks so you see how off i was , the 2nd was a little bit better. I'm hoping some wood putty will fill in some gaps and the fact the CP will be black, hopefully it will hide the horidness of my attempt.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=135903;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=135905;image)
I'm also gonna cut some 3" holes in the base of the CP and cover with a black mesh on the inside and use the router to round out the outside. These will be for air intake, my plan is to place these cutouts towrds the front of the CP where it overhangs from the actual cab. My thinking is the fans kick out alot of light, so I'm hoping I will get a slight neon glow right under my CP. Will have to test and see.
That's all for now....
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I like the fans but won't that end up blowing in your face? Can't tell exactly. Plus that seems to take up a lot more CP real estate than any kind of ducted system would.
Still, they'll look cool with the artwork you've got!
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Thanks Dr. V,
I thought of the irritating air in the face part, which is why I chose fan with manual controls. On the lowest setting you dont even know they are there, at medium its generates an airflow no different than your home AC being at full blast.
Whats wierd is the actual air flow of these things blows towards the top of the CP not towards the player, so its actually just circulating the air in the space between the player and the monitor/tv.
So for continuous play low to mid setting, but if you start sweating your butt off, you can just turn to high, and feel the breeze to cool off, or hey, instant hand dryer..... ;)
Yep, just did a mock setup of the CP, even at full blast you don't get the breezy effect, it actually blows up and away from the player, so that should workout great for the circulation effect I wanted........
Thanks again for the input.......Keep it coming....
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I had my CP art done today, Fedex Kinkos turned it around in 3 hours, highly surprised. I also tested my neon speaker rings and the Lumin disks that will go into the side cutouts of the cab.
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That neon/disk setup looks great!
Hmmm, do they have those in orange? <thinking....>
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I had my CP art done today, Fedex Kinkos turned it around in 3 hours, highly surprised. I also tested my neon speaker rings and the Lumin disks that will go into the side cutouts of the cab.
Very cool. I'm curious, what did Kinko's charge for your cp print? Does it come with an adhesive back?
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Dr. V,
Thanks, they both are sound activated, the disk, practically pick up any sound within 10 to 15 feet, the microphone is very sensitive. What's cool is the disks pick up treble, while the neon rings pick more of the bass. The rings also glow brighter the louder the music gets....
Haven't seen them in orange...I've seen green, blue and red so far. They also come in different shapes and sizes. Stars, triangles, etc.
Queeg,
The charge is $8.00 a sq ft. The total was $43.00 for a 40X14 on a poly-glossy type material. It really shows off your bright colors. I didn't ask for adhesive backed, since this will go under plexi....I would call to check. Only con I have seen with this so far, is it scratches really easy, I was removing my cutouts and I have small scratches all over where I was working. I couldn't figure out how until I scraped off some excess clippings and there is was another scratch.
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Where's the pics? ;)
Nice work so far. Keep it up.
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Hello All,
Slow progress is better than no progress....
Finally have a shell to work with..
Top hole will house the neon speaker ring and lumin disk setup
Bottom hole will house a JL audio 10" woofer.
Twin setups on opposite side
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=137781;image)
Here is a test mount of the 32" monster....
Also a view of the sealed boxes for the woofers. One already mounted
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=137777;image)
Close up of the sealed speaker box
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=137779;image)
Close up of the beast
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=137783;image)
Testing with my favorite fighting game of all time
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=137785;image)
Finally the night version
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=137787;image)
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Since I was up figured I'd go ahead and post more updates....
This was an interesting find at the hardware store. It's a stake for holding signs. In the cab building world it's a perfect freakin marquee retainer. I just used the dremel to cut off the the part that usuallly gets stuck in the ground. It already had pre-drilled holes and already black.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=137791;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=137795;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=137793;image)
Both sealed woofer boxes now mounted.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=137799;image)
Top & back secured, speaker shelf will house 2 Focal 6" 2 way speakers
Had to figure out a way to mount the 32" monster. Cheap tilt mount and a make shift wall..
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=137801;image)
Back shot, and yes that is wood putty, I have yet to cut one symmetrical piece of mdf yet, wood putty is my friend. A little sanding and it will all be nice and smooth
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=137805;image)
Arcade cab handles converted into air vents.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=137803;image)
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Continued.....
Started my admin panel. Flush mounted Focal satellite tweeters. If you hadn't noticed yet, this thing will be thumpin. All speakers will ber powered by a 600W JL audio amp. The 6 button holes will house 6 blue illuminated novagems.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=137807;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=137809;image)
I've seen so many variations of how to mount the arcade glass cover for the monitor/tv. Here's my attempt at something new.
Came across this little treasure at the hardware store. Its a tile to carpet transition flooring strip. It has a 1/4" groove, and flat surface flap on the other side. I'm hoping to liquid nail one strip to a piece of mdf across the top and attach the other to the top of my admin panel. The glass will fit into both grooves and give me a smooth seam. More photos to come, will let you know if it passed or failed.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=137811;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=137815;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=137817;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=137819;image)
Finally, heres is my rig for sandwiching the lumin disk and the the speaker ring to the walls of the cab, that will illuminate the upper circular holes on the sides of the cab. Each screw will have a spring in between the ring and the MDF, this will help with the tension and keep me from over tightening and possibly damaging the ring or the disk.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=137821;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=137823;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=137825;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=137827;image)
Thats all for now.....all comments welcome, good or bad....
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:applaud:
The only thing I don't like is the 4:3 picture on that 16:9 screen. But I guess that won't be as obvious when the cabinet has some nice artwork etc to draw the attention.
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Man, you already know that is bugging the crap out of me as well. I don't know how to change the aspect for that game to 16:9. Anybody have any ideas? Some of the mame games blow up to full 16:9, but KI just won't do it.
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You're right Rablack97, the tile will do the trick nicely.
Keep it up. :applaud:
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Very cool. I love those speaker ring lights. I DID find a lumindisk in orange on amazon.
Thing is. try as I might, I haven't been able to figure a good way to integrate one into my cab. They are very nice looking though, esp being sound activated.
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Yeah, I found one the minute you made the comment about one being in orange. I didnt know how serious you were about getting one so I didnt sasy anything about it. Yeah they are really cool, the work like the plasma ball, you can touch it and the electricity follows your hand. They are super sensitive and accurate to sound. Just talking around the thing it flashes right along with your conversation. It was able to pick up even a finger snap.
Cool thing about it, is that i'm going to place the sound sensor for the speaker rings near the woofers, the lumin disks will pick up more on the highs and mids. So should make for an interesting effect....
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Few pic updates
Routed the front of the keyboard drawer......
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=138417;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=138419;image)
Didn't too much care for the wide open look inside of the cab, nor the idea of placing a decased PC on the floor so I filled it up a bit with a 3 piece unit.
I also wanted to hide the power strips and power supplies as well.
So I figured I would create a shelf, with the bottom section used to hide the power strip for all the plugins and the power supply for the amp. The top section will hold the decased PC.
The panel running across the center will have a panel that will have headphones jack and USB outputs....Haven't ordered the panel yet.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=138423;image)
PC shelf
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=138433;image)
Side Mounting Brackets
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=138421;image)
Installed
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=138431;image)
Top - The cutout is will have plexi on the inside, and the the inner portion of the rectangle has been routed for light blue t-molding
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=138437)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=138439;image)
Bottom
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=138433)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=138435)
Complete
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=138443)
A 10" blue neon light will be mounted behind the plexi to show off the decased PC in case anyone ever wants to see it.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=138453)
I am also going to mount my amp horizontally across the botttom false front, which will be lit up by 2 strips of leds.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=138459)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=138457;image)
Keep in mind all of this will be painted a flat black, didnt see a reason to gloss the inside. The top and bottom pieces will have handles for easy removal and will be stabilized with double roller spring catches.
http://www.rockler.com/gallery.cfm?Offerings_ID=148&TabSelect=Details (http://www.rockler.com/gallery.cfm?Offerings_ID=148&TabSelect=Details)
Once the whole thing was put together, the door stop was hindering the shelf from being removed, so i have to cut a slot in the door stop so the shelf could slide through
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=138425)
Amazing how far you have to think ahead to get this thig up and running.
Since the PC and the amp will be lit up, I only wanted this effect when the door was opened. So I am going to install a few normally open switches connected to the led and neon lighight on the door stop. Door opens, lights, door closed no lights. So no light bleeding through the cracks when the door is shut. Sorry for the blur.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=138455;image)
Here is the mount for my admin panel....
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=138427;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=138445;image)
This will not be hard mounted, it will be removable using the same double roller spring catches. This piece will also be the retainer for the glass. More on that later.
Here is the mock photo of everything just laying together. Can't attach until paint is done.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=138451)
Full Shot
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=138449)
Finally, I started my attempt at Gamester's Bling Candy Coated paint job, check out his thread if you haven't seen it, it's something to see.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=94891.160 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=94891.160)
His process took a week or so I think, I did this test in 1 day, so it's not his quality yet. This will be the skin on my cab.....
Testing.......
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=138413)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=138415)
Thats if for now, more to come later......
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Looking real good! You're absolutely right about having to think ahead a lot -- it's like a chess match.
I think some of your image links need fixing. Some of the pics are tiny, and I know they're not supposed to be, based on your post in the "image" thread. I bet you mistakenly did "Copy Image Location" instead of "Copy Link Location" when you were copying and pasting some of your URLs into the post. EDIT: Yay, you fixed it... ;)
Keep up the good work!
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Whoops, thanks, i fixed all the photos......
I returned all my brushes and gallon paint cans and trays.
3 cans of primer
2 cans of high gloss black
3 cans of metallic
3 cans of clear coat
1 can flat black (inside cab and inside CP)
1 bottle of Meguiar's swirl X
1 bottle of Meguiar's hi-tech yellow carnuba wax
1 10" orbital buffer
Polishing bonnetts, and a few terry cloth bonnetts.
I test sprayed the metallic on a small strip of the gloss black and oooooooooweeeeee it was shiney. Can't wait to go through the entire process.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=138468)
Paint $40.00
Buffer $19.00
Wax & Swirl X $30.00
Bonnetts $15.00
$105 paint job...... :angry: but well worth it
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Looking great! I think the lumen discs with the neon rings are going to look fantastic. By the way my 15" greens arrived the other day. Thanks again for that lead! ;)
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Nice job. Keep it up. :applaud:
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Epyx......Wow, finally a solid lead, can't wait to see those bad boys on the cab.
Kman....Thanks, just trying to keep up with you guys..
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$105 paint job...... :angry: but well worth it
If you manage to do it for that, you will have done a very efficient job. I unfortunately kept finding ways to redo my work.
Looking forward to seeing the end result!
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Small update.....
Got my marquee done today from Fedex Kinkos....Will post photos later....
For some reason they gave me 3 copies of it for $30.00 on backlit film.
Can anybody tell me why they did that? Is it for diffusing purposes?
Just wondering if anybody else has come across a print company providing 3 copies of a print for a backlit graphic....
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Just wondering if anybody else has come across a print company providing 3 copies of a print for a backlit graphic....
I don't know if it's customary for them to provide three, but it certainly affords you some flexibility. With three of them, you can compensate for the brightness of your back light if needed. For instance, if the image is too washed out with a single layer, you can add one (or both) of the extras to tone the brightness down some and gain more color detail.
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Hello All,
Few Updates to the Cab.
Painted the insides with a gloss. Sorry for the dust
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=139110;image)
Here is the back showing the cooling vent cutouts, power plugin cutout, and the 3 fan cutouts to cool the TV, PC and power supplies.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=139108;image)
Here are the sides, painted in the metallic and gloss black
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=139106;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=139112;image)
Installed T-molding and test fitted Lumin Disc's and speaker ring setup.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=139114;image)
Firing up the disc's and rings
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=139116;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=139122;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=139128;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=139120;image)
This photo freaked me out, I guess this is where the machine got it's soul.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=139118;image)
Finally, here is a shot of the final paint job, this was taken around 4 a.m, but I got my mirror finish.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=139124;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=139126;image)
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Nice work! :applaud:
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Whoa, that "soul" photo is freaky.
I like all of your ideas so far; it's turning out pretty well!
Just a thought, there was the comment about the CP fans blowing air in your face. What if you turned those around and used them as intake instead, and use a cheap black one on the back (say a 180mm or so) for exhaust? That way you wouldn't get the air in your face, and they'd still be functional.
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Whoa, that "soul" photo is freaky.
Just a thought, there was the comment about the CP fans blowing air in your face. What if you turned those around and used them as intake instead, and use a cheap black one on the back (say a 180mm or so) for exhaust? That way you wouldn't get the air in your face, and they'd still be functional.
Yeah it still baffles me how that clear everything else is in that photo and the lumin disk looked the way it did. I was about to rent "paranormal activity" and watch it, think i'm gonna pass on that now. I have to say that effect does authenticate my theme.
Yes I addressed that issue when it was first brought up, the fans are just 80mm, so if you think about they would have to blow pretty darn hard to generate the type of air flow to really get on your nerves. Also, a hard blowing fan is really loud, and I didn't want the extra noise. To really feel it your face would to be about 6-12 inches from the fan. Average face will will be at least 3-4 feet from the fans. The logic was to create a nice cool airflow between the player and the TV screen as LCD's do generate a bit of heat.
Also, think about like a bowling alley hand dryer, if your hands start to get sweaty, crank up the fans, hold your hand over it and presto, instant dry hands....
But just in case it became an issue, I'm going to attach fan controllers to each fan with control knobs on the side of the CP. So the player can either have the fan on blast, turn it down or completely turn it off.
Wow a 180 mm fan, those things are huge, CP might take of and fly away :). I think that bad boy might take up too much real estate in the bottom of my CP and the back of the CP isnt tall enough to take on a fan that size.
Thanks for the ideas though.
:cheers:
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Yes I addressed that issue when it was first brought up, the fans are just 80mm, so if you think about they would have to blow pretty darn hard to generate the type of air flow to really get on your nerves. Also, a hard blowing fan is really loud, and I didn't want the extra noise. To really feel it your face would to be about 6-12 inches from the fan. Average face will will be at least 3-4 feet from the fans. The logic was to create a nice cool airflow between the player and the TV screen as LCD's do generate a bit of heat.
Oh, I see. I did catch what you said about attaching speed controllers, but I was thinking you were using them for airflow inside the box, and just wanted the grills on the CP for looks. I must have missed something in one of your original posts; didn't realize that having them blowing out at you was the whole point. ::) So nevermind; that is actually a pretty cool idea.
Also, think about like a bowling alley hand dryer, if your hands start to get sweaty, crank up the fans, hold your hand over it and presto, instant dry hands....
THAT is an even better idea! I like that a lot. When I build an upright, I might try something like that, perhaps mounted somewhere else, though...
Wow a 180 mm fan, those things are huge, CP might take of and fly away :). I think that bad boy might take up too much real estate in the bottom of my CP and the back of the CP isnt tall enough to take on a fan that size.
*Imagines a CP flying around like a hovercraft* :laugh2:
I use 180mm fans on side panels (on PC cases) a lot; my current one has a 220 on the top. They move a LOT of air and usually do it more quietly than smaller fans.
Anyway, like I said a minute ago, I was thinking you were using the CP fans for airflow, so my thought was to use them for intake, with a larger fan on the back of the cabinet itself for exhaust. I do a lot of case modding, so I'm always under the impression that fans are for internal airflow and nothing else. ;) Depending on where the MoBo is inside the cab, that would be a pretty effective path, too.
But that's neither here nor there, since airflow was not actually your objective.
Again, great looking cab so far. Every time I see a build going so well, I'm more inspired to do an upright! Must...finish current project...first...
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Hello All,
Few updates to share, some good, some bad.
Start with the bad. If you've followed the thread you know how much effort I put into the paint job on this thing. Well I polished the last piece, and was ready to move the cab from the garage to my game room upstairs. I enlisted my cousin to help me move it. Now somehow I started with the intent of the cab being 34" wide, giving me enough room to get through my 35" doorway. I think my MDF bowed cause it had expanded to a little over 34 3/4, leaving less than a 1/4 of an inch for me to play with.
I'm sure your thinking I jacked up the paint job moving it upstairs right. Well it never made it out of the garage. My table saw was set up in the center of the garage and we wheeled the cab around it towards the open garage door, me being all excited pushed it too close to the saw, and disaster hit me like a brick. :banghead:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=139590;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=139578;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=139580;image)
Yes, you are correct that is a permanent marker overlay that was done in my insanity. It was was either that or let it roll on down the driveway and let a car make some more pretty marks on it.
After I cooled down we made it up the stairs to the game room.
So now for the good updates.
I found a set of 4 120 mm fans for $15.00 which i mounted into the 3 cooling holes in the back of the cab, the fourth will be mounted behind my amp which i will show later..
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=139582;image)
I also bought a few filtered grill covers to keep the dust out and to dress it up a bit.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=139586;image)
Inside shot
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=139594;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=139596;image)
Here are the vents permanently mounted
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=139584;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=139588;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=139598;image)
Turned out interesting as to how i mounted the disks with the lumin rings. The speaker rings came with an assortment of springs. So I placed the larger ones behind the MDF, with the concept that the springs would push the MDF against the disk and the speaker rings without me having to over tighten the screwes. The springs also kept me from screwing in too far and through my cab, once the srings were compressed, I knew it was far enough. Ends result is a snug fit, no rattling no loose parts.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=139602;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=139600;image)
And here is the setup in action, the lumins really pick up all the treble and the speaker rings add that extra glow on the heavy pieces of the music. I chose techno as it has a little of both.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZDkU2dMKuRU
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Looking good!
That really stinks about the scratch on the side. Unfortunately I can totally relate. I had a similar disaster with mine. I had balanced the CP box on the cab to take some measurements and instead of removing it when I was done, I left it there. Well, I then proceeded to brush up against it while walking past and it came crashing to the ground. Totally destroyed the paint job on one corner.
Question on the fans... do all of those fans act as intake or does the one at the top exhaust? I ask because you have filters on all three. A filter on an exhaust fan would be counter-productive (if not pointless). If they are all intake fans, you may consider flipping the top one to exhaust. You'll likely get better circulation inside the cab that way. Just my $0.02.
The speaker rings and lumindiscs look great. Have you tried leaving the lumindisc on full time and only having the speaker ring react to sound, just to see how it looks? That way there's still a light show even if there's no sound.
Coming along nicely...
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They are all intake, mainly just to pull cool air from the outside in. I see your point only that each fan will be blocked off from the other. The fans are in 3 sections of the cab. In a prior post you will see that there will be a board in between fans 1& 2 from the bottom, and the TV shelf totally blocks off the ventilation to what could be a an exhaust fan. Also, these things don't blow super hard ($15.00 for 4) so the circulation effect wouldn't be as effective as I would like it to be. So a little cool air intake is what I went with with vents up top for some of the warm air to escape.
Good idea I will try that tonight with the disks.
Yeah one day i might sand it down and repaint it, for now I'm tired of painting. You were right, 15 cans of primer to do the cab. Roughly about 30 can total. I know you found your system, but fyi, Killz odorless spray primer covers really well, only thing is you dont get much in the can, hence 15 cans of primer.
Thanks for the ideas, I'm wiring the fans tonight....Wish me luck :blowup:
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Hello All,
A few updates.
Mounted marquee retainer, marquee and backlighting.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=141783;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=141781;image)
I am no electrician, but this is my attempt at using a terminal to bring 12v from the PS to the marquee lighting, cooling fan and the neon speaker rings. Miraculously it works.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=141785;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=141789;image)
In order to get USB ports to the outside, I found these feed through adaptors.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=141793;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=141795;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=141797;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=141799;image)
Same concept for headphones, there are two as I decided to add a DJ feature to the cab as well, so you can cue music before playing it through the main speakers.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=141791;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=141801;image)
I couldn't get the whole photo to show but there is another port to the far right of the headphone jacks.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=141805;image)
I hadn't planned on doing this part, but a brainstorm lead me to do it. I decide to add neon lighting to the hidden keyboard drawer beneath the CP. I found a flexible neon tube at the local autozone and routed out a with my dremel. I then superglued the tube inside of the groove. I will have a switch wired to the stop point of the drawer that will activate the light when its open and deactivate the light when its closed.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=141815;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=141817;image)
I attached a layer of plexiglass over it and the finished product looks like this, the keyboard will sit in the center.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=141813;image)
I caught a great deal on this smart strip $20.00, there happened to be guy who was liquidating his inventory. He had about 20 of these and was selling via eBay. He so happened to live 20 mins from me, so i met up with him and he gave me 1 brand new for 20 bucks.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=141823;image)
I mounted it inside the cab and cut the plug to wire it to a more appropriate arcade cab switch.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=141819;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=141821;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=141825;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=141831;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=141827;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=141833;image)
Finally decased my PC
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=141841;image)
More terminals to run 12v power to the rest of the fans and the neon lighting (more on that later.)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=141843;image)
Here are the blue tubes that will light up the decased computer.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=141845;image)
Here is another little gem I came across at a great deal. This bad boy will power my 600 watt amp. It's a cascade audio 600 watt 45 amp power supply, same used in car audio stores to demo products.. Retail $250. EBay $80.00
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=141861;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=141847;image)
Finished the see through cover for the decased PC, turned out really nice.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=141849;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=141851;image)
I will post pics of the full installation at a later date.
Here is the back of the amplifier panel, yes more terminals this will power the fan (for amp cooling) and all the lighting around the crossovers and the amp. Which will be triggered upon opening the front door of the cab. The same trigger will also activate the neon tubes to light up the decase PC, when the door closes all lighting will shut down but the fan will remain on.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=141853;image)
Got a chance to wire up the locking DC power plugs, these will bring ground, 12v, 5v into my control panel. The DB25 terminal will connect the admin buttons to the ipac, I'll post more on that when I get around to completing the CP.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=141855;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=141859;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=141857;image)
That's all for now, comments, critiques are always welcome.
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Nice job with the wiring, I wish we could get them smart power strips in australia.
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I just read through the whole thread. Nice looking cab.
I really felt your pain when I read you gashed your paint. That's the kind of thing that to anyone else is minor, but when you've put so much effort into something it really stings.
Thanks to your video clip of your Lumin Disc I am now listening to Sandstorm by Darude (took me forever to find it / remember what it was called) . I hadn't heard that track for ages. :)
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Great idea with the keyboard tray. I also love those USB passthrus and the db25 breakout. Wish I'd known about those earlier <sigh>
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Thanks guys,
Nice job with the wiring, I wish we could get them smart power strips in australia.
I take it there's a power voltage difference between the US and Australia. If not, check EBay, look for RedTex1967 as the seller and see if he will ship to Australia. He's really cool and is really trying to get rid of these things. They retail for like USD 55, he has the latest version.
As for the wiring, I used molex for quick disconnect purposes, but if you dont get the crimp right you spend hours trying to figure out why your application for the connection wont work. It's a PITA, but worth it if you get it going.
I just read through the whole thread. Nice looking cab.
I really felt your pain when I read you gashed your paint. That's the kind of thing that to anyone else is minor, but when you've put so much effort into something it really stings.
Thanks to your video clip of your Lumin Disc I am now listening to Sandstorm by Darude (took me forever to find it / remember what it was called) . I hadn't heard that track for ages. :)
Yeah you see how I tried to fix it, temporary insanity. I stopped work on it a few days just to cool down. LOL, yeah the cab will be a jukebox too, so I have plenty of techno. I remembered it from my Dance Dance Revolution days. So the title stuck.
Great idea with the keyboard tray. I also love those USB passthrus and the db25 breakout. Wish I'd known about those earlier <sigh>
Yeah I thought it would look cool, but i didnt know how to get it done. Turned out nice though.
Check out mouser.com, it has pretty much any gadget you can think of. The headphone jacks i got from altex.com
The db25 breakout was an idea i got from the Robert downey arcade odyssey project, he's been sorta my mentor. I created a start up video for him, so he gives me direction when i get stuck and we trade ideas.
Thanks for the comments.....
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Nice job with the wiring, I wish we could get them smart power strips in australia.
If you have 220v down under and really want one I could buy one for you here in Sweden and send it to you.
No clue how much it would set you back with shipping but I could do some investigations. Changing the plug to fit you outlets shouldn't be a problem.
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Hello All,
A few minor updates.
Mounted the neon lighting bars inside the cab.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143469;image)
Back to my see through project, here it is placed inside the cab....
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143471;image)
Here it is lit up
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143473;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143479;image)
Here are the amp and crossovers mounted...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143475;image)
Lit up (As stated in a previous post, there will be a switch to shut all of this down when the front door is shut and on when it's opened.)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143477;image)
Next i tackled the keyboard drawer front.
Matching paint job.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143494;image)
Then i attached a spare piece of mdf to the back and painted it flat black.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143496;image)
Then i attached one side of some folding hinges to the front edge of the drawer.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143498;image)
The i attached the other side of the hinges to the bottom of the flat black mdf piece.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143502;image)
I then mounted two magnets to the inside of the cab.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143504;image)
The drawer pushes in, the front lift up and attaches to the magnets.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143506;image)
There's alot going on in this photo so might as well fill in the blanks.
First ignore the ugly mouse its gonna get replaced.
That's my unfinished CP base ready for final buffing.
Above that is my admin panel minus the buttons and the tweeters.
That little switch on the floor is what will shut the leds off, when the door is shut.
The 3 cords to the right on th couch are my 12v 5v and ground DC plugs that will plug into the back of the CP.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143510;image)
Ok back to the drawer, now closed.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143508;image)
I also got around to painting my front door, here it is with the coin door and speaker holes cut out, yesssss, matching paint job.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143481;image)
Here are the focal speakers, i added some weather stripping so there would be no speaker to wood contact, so no rattle. The 10" woofers in this thing thump.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143488;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143490;image)
This is my most prized purchase so far, a Happs over/under coin door with mechs for $20.00, I love Ebay.
I switched out the ugly yellow coin rejects for blue, and rewired the lights and the switches. I am going to replace the lights with LED's at some point.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143486;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143483;image)
I was all happy and ready to mount it and guess what no freakin mounting screws and tabs. This is my first build so I didnt kow what was missing. I went back to the ebay guy, and he tried to stiff me since i got the door for so cheap, 1.50 per tab an screw. I ended up convincing him to send me 15 tabs and screws for 5 bucks and free shipping. Here is the end result, I'm loving it.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143492;image)
Well, thats it for now, feel free to bash , congratulate, or comment.....All are welcome...
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Looking good!
It's hard to tell from the pictures, but hopefully those speakers are well above knee level. Otherwise I could easily see the grills getting bent during some spirited game play...
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I love the mods Rablack97!
Those speakers should pound out some nice sound too! Ah...makes me wish mine was done for some bass filled Black Tiger ;)
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Thanks Gamester,
I actually have two stools that will be used for seating. If someone wants to stand then with the CP top attached there is plenty of knee space. The door is pretty far back for that exact reason. I've already had paint disasters, I would be livid if I came home and the speakers were dented.
You got me to upgrade my PC as well, I tried SF4 with my setup, and got a whopping 12 FPS.
Here is my wish list, what do you think?
AMD Phenom II X2 550 Black Edition Callisto 3.1GHz Socket AM3 80W Dual-Core Processor
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103680 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103680)
Patriot Gamer Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820220410 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820220410)
CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX 750W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Compatible with Core i7 Power
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139006 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139006)
MSI R5770 Hawk Radeon HD 5770 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127490 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127490)
MSI 770-G45 AM3 AMD 770 ATX AMD Motherboard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130250 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130250)
Thanks Epyx,
Oh yeah, 2 10" woofers, 2 6" midrange above the monitor, 2 6" mini woofers in the door, and 2 tweeters in the admin panel = 600 watts. I only have the big woofers and the midrange hooked up now, and it sounds awesome. No rattles anywhere, nice and clear.
The only thing now is a slight echo cause i have hooked up channels 3 & 4 yet to fill in that range of void.
Had to go old school , was jamming some BEE GEE's in the photos :lol
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In the midst of waiting on parts and configuring the system, I updated my intro video. I'm a Mortal Kombat Raiden fan so I integrated the theme with the character. I chopped up one of my favorite movies "Big Trouble in Little China" and threw in some added sound fx and graphics. The movie clips at the end were created by Delusional, so the addition really finished off the project.
Yes, I already know I'm gonna get the it's too long speech, and after the 50th time is gonna suck. Well, I like it, it's my cab, and my self-torture, besides that's what the ESC button is for. Let me know what you think minus the fact that it may be too long for a majority of the forums taste.
Long Version
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kqn1cFPWJdg
Short Version (advice from Kurt) Dd just have it from 1:12 mark to 1:20 if it got to annoying after awhile as it looks sweet when the lighting bolt is thrown then mame appears.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2FElgprfqGQ
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Dd just have it from 1:12 mark to 1:20 if it got to annoying after awhile as it looks sweet when the lighting bolt is thrown then mame appears.
I dont mind it besides as you said esc fixes it >:D
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I agree with Kurt, the short version is much better, IMO.
Props for the creative use of the movie footage. :cheers:
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I agree with Kurt, the short version is much better, IMO.
+3 :cheers:
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(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=141831;image)
Did you bypass the fuse for a reason?
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You could wire it to include the fuse if you wanted, but the switch was used more for its function and looks more than protection. If your wiring your source through the switch say directly to your PC power supply the I wouldn't have by-passed the fuse. I figured the actual smart strip would give me all the protection I would need. In fact I was wiring last night I accidentally touched 2 wires together and it tripped the smart strip and shut the machine down, no issues. I just re-started and it was fine.
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Firing up the disc's and rings
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=139122;image)
Resistance is Futile!
(http://images2.wikia.nocookie.net/memoryalpha/en/images/thumb/2/24/Borg-alcove.jpg/180px-Borg-alcove.jpg)
The resemblence is uncanny >:D
Great job, it truly looks amazing. :applaud:
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Ok I need help deciding which CP art to use......
I just removed the wizard and replaced with a nice Raiden Graphic.....
Sucks that I already have the wizard CP printed.....Oh well, not the first redo in this whole project...
Original
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144270;image)
Updated
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144272;image)
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Personally, I like the wizard one better...
Nice progress!
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Personally, I like the wizard one better...
+1 ;)
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Focal splits in an arcade cabinet. :o I'm very impressed. Should sound awesome when done. Very cool project you have going here.
FWIW I think the wizard looks better.
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I wanted to get some input on j-sticks.
Should I go with JLW or JLF.
The difference is in the microswitches, JLW is older uses authentic lever switches and look to have a bigger mounting plate, JLF uses a PCB board and is the new model and seems to be used more for standalone CP's.
Any pros and cons on either.
I was looking at the U360's but I want the lighted ball tops and after research seems thats not gonna happen due to the modifications it needs to make that happen. Plus I cant see myself tearing up and expensive stick like that only to screw up the functionality so i can see pretty lights.
So i'm torn between JLF/JLW, any comments would be appreciated.
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@Rablack97
Let me just say this right now...I *LOVE* my JLWs...for me it blows every other stick I have tried out of the water. I still like my Comps...but I think these sneak by even those for overall versatility. I keep one at 4 way and the other at 8 way and man...during *testing* last night (read playing) they just felt fantastic.
While I can't comment on the JLFs (only other stick I haven't tried of the common ones) here are the pros of the JLW:
Pros
- Fantastic throw...just the right distance...not too long not too short
- Non mechanical centering feel (IE opposite of Magstick Plus)
- Great for fighting and 8 way
- Fantastic for 4 ways
- Easy to top mount on top of wood without anything other than FrancoBs mod
- Easy to mod with LEDs
- Not crazy Clicky (again unlike Magstick Plus)
- Awesome switch contact
Cons
- I honestly haven't come across a negative...if anything just the fact I have to put my hand under the CP to switch between 4 and 8 way...everything else just plain kicks arse
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The only difference is the space they take up and the ability to replace your microswitches down the line. In terms of feel they're pretty similar.
With the JLF, because the switches are mounted to the PCB, if they were to fail from use later on, it'll be hard to replace them. I personally would go with the JLW, since CP space isn't an issue for you, and the maintenance ability would come in handy down the line.
Also, I like the wizard CP art better too. :cheers:
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Ok good this is what i needed to hear. Some feedback from someone who has had some play time and a reassurance on maint.
Easy to top mount on top of wood without anything other than FrancoBs mod
Do you have to top mount? What's the pro's cons here? Ultimarc has a kit to mount underneath.
Easy to mod with LEDs
I've been emailing thorsten and he has the JLW shafts, I think he fell asleep on me, cause he just stopped emailing. LOL
Also, I like the wizard CP art better too
Seems thats the majority wizard it is............
Thank you Epyx & Opt2not
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I've been emailing thorsten and he has the JLW shafts, I think he fell asleep on me, cause he just stopped emailing. LOL
I know that HarumaN was looking to get rid of a few hollowed shafts. They're JLF shafts, so I'm not sure if they're interchangeable with the JLW's. I think he still has them. (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=98251.0)
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Do you have to top mount? What's the pro's cons here? Ultimarc has a kit to mount underneath.
You don't have to but if you are using plexiglass or laminate why not? It's no harder than bottom mounting. If you are painting then ya put them underneath using the Ultimarc kit.
Pros of top mounting are stick length...take a look at the shot of the JLWs on my CP and note how my shafts stick out above the laminate. I like a long shaft above the wood (don't go there!). Placing my hand vertical beside the stick the ball just fits into the groove between my thumb and index finger...perfect ;)
(http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb312/epyx_photo/March19Pic15.jpg)
As for Thorsten, he does superb work and may just not be around the last few days but his communication is usually bang on.
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Epyx,
Ok I see, so this way keeps you from having to buy an extended shaft for the j-sticks.
:laugh2:, not touching that one with a 10 ft. pole.........
Opt2Not,
I read the thread and seems he's a bit high on those shafts, $15.00 a piece, plus I would have to drill the ball top, and I need a blue led, not RGB.
Seems that Thorsten has the whole setup, shaft, ball, led, resistors, all assembled for about $37.00 for 2 sets, shipping included.
You've already sold me on the JLW's so I'm going with Thorsten, I'll just contact him later on tonight or ealry tomorrow morning....Thanks for the heads up though...
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Ok I see, so this way keeps you from having to buy an extended shaft for the j-sticks.
Yep exactly. Also I just checked and Thorsten hasn't been online since the 20th so he may just be out of town etc...give him a day or two.
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I was emailing with him this morning....It was probably late and he shut it down....I just need to finalize with him....
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Let me just say this right now...I *LOVE* my JLWs...for me it blows every other stick I have tried out of the water.
+1 I love my (modded for silent running) JLWs too, very rugged, great feel.
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Quick updates.
This what i used to mount the monetary switch to the back of the keyboard drawer to trigger the neon light.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145467;image) L-Bracket
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145469;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145473;image) Monetary switch
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145475;image) The predrilled holes in the bracket were a perfect fit
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145477;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145479;image) Pulled out
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145481;image) Pushed in
I pondered on how I was going to mount the smoked glass over the monitor. Took a stroll in Home Depot and came across shelving brackets, already painted in semigloss black and comes in 5ft. lengths.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145465;image) small left over piece
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145483;image) I simply cut to size drilled wood screws through the holes in the brackets into the admin panel, i did the same for the speaker panel. this is a test fit, i plan to fill in the gap behind the glass with weather stipping, so there shouldnt be any rattling.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145485;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145489;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145491;image)
Top mounted my Sanwa j-stick panels ala Franco B's tutorial, his baby, so i'll just post photos to illustrate the concept.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145495;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145503;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145501;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145499;image) this pic may be confusing, this is how i lined up the base to draw the cutout. I did this after i routed out the top layer, this pic just doesnt show that. Anyhow, i just looked for the daylight in the holes so i knew it was lined up to draw the template.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145507;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145509;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145511;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145505;image) about as flush as you can get with screws
I've seen a few button mods to tone down the brightness of the led in a pushbutton. So I tried to come up with my own as far as i know, if someone else has done it. I apologize, but haven't seen this simple mod to get a different look out of a button and at a cheaper price.
My concept is use what you have, just swap em out....
I bought 15 black buttons and 16 clear buttons (on order)....I had enough parts on hand to make one test piece.
I've seen most mods create the ring effect around the button to get rid of that intense glare when lighting underneath. So I just took the clear casing and installed the black button. These will be for my gaming buttons p1,p2, spinner, p1 & p2 start(which will be black also.)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145513;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145529;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145531;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145533;image)
These will be fore my pinball buttons, (admin panel, pause and coin buttons - these buttons will have coin inserts naming each button appropriately)....
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145515;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145519;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145521;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145523;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=145525;image)
I'll be doing some serious soldering for the leds and resistors, but that's the fun of it, and 31 buttons with this look for $80.00, is a great deal.
If I stole someone elses idea, someone let me know I just haven't seen this done, not saying it hasn't and credit should be given to the right person. It's so simple but sometimes we overlook the obvious.
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Nice. I like the black button with clear ring idea. Simple but effective.
And the keyboard tray that automatically lights up is slick!
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I haven't posted many photos in awhile so i just posted this video to show my progress on my project....
This is a video of the completed control panel
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nNgI5ICxFZA
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Nice. I really like those clear rings with the black buttons. They turned out very nicely!
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I love it...turned out awesome! :cheers:
I really like what you did for lighting the spinner in particular.
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Hello All,
Black's Magic is 100% structurally complete. I've been configuring software for the cab and playing games as I go.
Just been too lazy to post photos.
Many thanks to:
Rdowney aka blinddado, Epyx, Dr. Venture, OND, and Gamester for all of their expertise and insight.
Most important a thanks to SAINT for creating this forum and inspiring us to build works of art.
I will try to post a video of how it works, but here are a few photos. I have more photos of the construct and wiring work if anyone is interested.
It's been fun and real..........
FYI, for anyone who sees this and is a beginner, I have no prior graphics, electrical, or wood working experience. This project was done from scratch with 7 months worth of research, and questions. Cool thing is 100% of the reasearch for every question started here on this forum...Amazing what you can do if you put your mind to it....
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Photos Continued
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More photos
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More Photos
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Last of them
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Fantastic job! :applaud:
Making me wish I could finish mine....
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Very nice, stirling job, the black buttons look great on the CP and the finish is nice and clean.
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Nice job rablack97! Congrats on the finish...now enjoy and join some of the high score comps! :cheers:
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Just read through this for the first time... great documentation!
The fans idea is realy novel. I remember a sit down game where you pedal a flying bike to pop baloons (pilot wings?). It had a fan mounted that gave an impression of speed and height. Worked quite well.