The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: Level42 on February 21, 2009, 01:41:28 pm
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So, I recently bought two spare Hantarex's in unknown condition and my Joust came with a Hantarex inside it (it's a Euro-Joust).
Since the picture was pretty dim on the Joust, I figured I would try to swap one of the spare one's. However they don't look 100% alike. On the one in the Joust, there's an extra small PCB to the left side, angled to the main PCB.
The power goes to that seperate board. The video signals go to the regular spot on the main PCB. there's an extra 4 pin connector on the main PCB that is wired to two pot-meters that are on the frontside of the cab (reachable from the coin door)
There is also a push-button with two wires going to that extra little PCB, which I figure is a manual degauss.
I swapped in one of the extra 900's and it was completely dead. However I couldn't connect the pot-meters to anywhere on that one it seems ?
Anyway swapped back the original as I didn't have any more time. It fired up (very slowly) and had some wooly picture. I then tweaked with the pot settings and gone was my picture. It looked like there was some over-power circut kicking in, as the neck-glow was still there but nothing on screen. By waiting a bit, I could sometimes get a VERY unfocussed picture but if I'd turn the pot up to much it went "dead" again.
Weird.
Anyone have a clue what the pots are for. I'd expected them to be brightness/contrast controls....
And what's the story with the extra PCB ?
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Pics of the Hantarex that came in the Joust:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100439/DSCF2478/web.jpg)
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100439/DSCF2481/web.jpg)
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100439/DSCF2482/web.jpg)
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100439/DSCF2485/web.jpg)
To say it was a bit dirty.....
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100439/DSCF2484/web.jpg)
The extra "mains" PCB:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100439/DSCF2487/web.jpg)
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i remember this chassis from many years ago-the panel with the two pots is and extender control board,it has a degauss,brightness and contrast i think
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OK, dug up some more info. So the 900 is not the same as the 900E.
My good friend Andreas' has both manuals on his site (plus a lot more European monitors):
http://www.andysarcade.de/gen_unicab.html
There's also a cap-kit list for the 900 there.
So, using the manuals I've established that the one on the Joust cab is a 900.
It uses the same set-up and same boards.
However, the spare one is a bit of a mystery. All in all I would say it's a 900E. It has the same deflection board (DE2) BUT a different "interface" board, PE instead of IE......
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i remember this chassis from many years ago-the panel with the two pots is and extender control board,it has a degauss,brightness and contrast i think
Thanks Grant, you're right. That extender is normally on the monitor itself as showed in the 900 manual (see attachment, RV 10 & 11).
I have strong doubts about the HV cup/connection on this one. The cup plastic has become too stiff (who selects a see-through plastic for this, they become brittle over time :dunno ) to make a good vacuum under it and the pins don't seem to make good contact. When the monitor was still working in the Joust I heard the famous HV ticks of sparks jumping over plus smelled the well known smell of ionized air....
Think this is the first thing to try to fix.
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Thought I'd get the 2nd spare Hantarex out to see if it was any better than the other. Well, this one turned out to be a 900.
So, I have the 900 that was in the Joust, a spare 900 and a spare 900E.
Aparantly the HV cup is/has been a problem on the spare 900, as is looks like they tried to glue it tight. Anyway, the spare 900 was as dead as the spare 900E so they're going to need some good investigation.
In the mean time I tried the 900 that was originally in the Joust as that one was at least working (a bit). Found the problem why there was no picture, there was a loose pin (that goes to the "separate" pin on the CRT). Strangely this has a separate "clip" on the neckboard and that was loose. Put it back, and picture again. Here's the pin on the neckboard, it has the thick brown wire:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100439/DSCF2481/web.jpg)
Now, the picture has a problem. With games like Defender, Joust and Robotron, everything seems to have a halo around it. With Bubbles it gets so bad (because of the full screen graphics) that it completely washes out.
I have a feeling this has to do with too low HV getting to the tube. The HV-cup could well be the issue as I can still hear the HV "sparking/hissing".
Does the cup really need to make a total vacuum ? I guess I will need to replace the cup anyway.
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Checked the fuses on both dead monitors and all are fine. Weird that both show not a single sign of life.
Worth to check any basic things ? I'm thinking about forgetting fixing these and getting replacement chassis.
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how good are the tubes with a working chassis,any serious burn or gun weakness?
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Haven't swapped tubes (yet). No burn on the two spares. The one in the Joust has burn-in from the other (Jamma) game that has been in there but not too bad.
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maybe it would be a good idea to get one of those cheap chassis and have a mess with it,only thing is i am sure those hanty tube necks were a bit special but it was a long time ago
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Your memory is fine Grant, the necks have weird and poor construction. Instead of the normal pin style connector, they use a "open" connector that slides to the pins. It's like an edge connector. So this construction relies heavily on the spring action of the contacts on the neckboard. And it doesn't hold up well over time. The neckboards pop loose if you only "look" at it.... on one of the extra monitors I bought there's a piece of cardboard fixed behing the neckboard and tied to the yoke as to keep the neckboard in place..... :dizzy:
BUT, a CRT is a CRT and the pins are always the same. It's just the male plastic part of the connector on the CRT that would prevent a normal type of connector to be used. I removed the connector already (just to try). I guess finding a normal plastic piece is actually the hardest part....
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Just discovered in the 900 manual that one side of the 4-pin power connector is for 120VAC and the other for 220VAC. The specs never mention the possibility of connecting 220VAC.
Now I have to check out the power connections that run from the Joust to the monitor but there already was a Hantarex 900 in there, so it should be the same. In theory. Will see tomorrow.
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Just discovered in the 900 manual that one side of the 4-pin power connector is for 120VAC and the other for 220VAC. The specs never mention the possibility of connecting 220VAC.
Now I have to check out the power connections that run from the Joust to the monitor but there already was a Hantarex 900 in there, so it should be the same. In theory. Will see tomorrow.
the 220vac is for the degauss and the 120vac is the chassis power-this ran all the way to the polo series when it changed to free range power input
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Ah ?
This is puzzling. The 900 schematics shows that the 120VAC go to, let's say pin 1 and 2 and the 220 VAC goes to pin 3 and 4. However, in my Joust cabinet the power connector only has two wires attached at pin 1 and 4 and provides 120 VAC there !?!?
If I try a Kortek KT-20 instead of the Hantarex in the Joust cabinet, I assume I can switch them over (the connectors are the same, the signal wires match 100%), but I'm worried about that 1-4 pin set-up.
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oh i see whats going on,you have an american joust cabinet which would have had a n.american release hanty chassis on it that were modifies to operate at 110vac
the new chassis you have are probably european that run 110v and 240v
this is easy to prove you just need to check the schem and attach the cable accordingly,if you only have 110vac on the input wires then no problem as if you connect wrong you will not do any damage BUT if you connect 240vac incorrectly you will cause some serious damage
so in essence the european chassis run at 110vac(without a degauss) on pins 1 and 2-double check this of course
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Ok,ok we're on the right track here BUT I have a Euro-Joust....
Yes the monitor inside it (Hantarex 900 ( NOT E ! )) is being fed with 120 VAC.
The schematics are POS (just like the monitors I'm about to think......)
I've got two manuals.
One is for the 900: http://www.andysarcade.de/data/coinop/videogames/raster%20monitors/hantarex/mtc900/hantarex_mtc900.pdf
The other is for the 900E:
http://www.andysarcade.de/data/coinop/videogames/raster%20monitors/hantarex/mtc900e/mtc900e.pdf
We're talking 900, so the following is from the 900 manual:
First a text clip:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=89744.0;attach=119313;image)
Then there's a nice diagram with colored wires, very clear:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=89744.0;attach=119315;image)
So far so good: 120VAC on pin 1-2 on connector CB, 220VAC on pin 3-4
Now, the schematics don't tell ANYTHING about this set-up. Here's the schematic off the little extra power board (PS):
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=89744.0;attach=119317;image)
No indication about connect CB and the pins. Just the transformer (TH1) and then it goes towards the fuses etc.
I'm now figuring out the PCB-set-up picture to see what's what in reality:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=89744.0;attach=119319;image)
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I was just thinking.....if you read my Joust thread you know that the picture of the monitor shows really bad "halo" effect around the characters on screen. I wonder.....might the cause be that the 110VAC is fed through the wrong pins ? (1-4 where it should be 1-2).
It might be possible that the PS part outputs a way too low voltage, causing all votages be too low and thus too low HV causing the halo effect ?
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Decided to take the gamble, and I moved the wire from pin 4 to pin 2. Result on the original monitor that came with the Joust: working, but still same issues. At least nothing blew up ! :D
BUT, this all did give me some hope about the other spare Hantarexes. As I had the 900E still in the gameroom, I hooked it up and YES we have a great looking picture ! :applaud: :applaud:
Only issue is that it's missing a color, but I can't figure out which one. Should be not to hard to fix....
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Only issue is that it's missing a color, but I can't figure out which one. Should be not to hard to fix....
And suddenly it struck me: If the power connector pins could be mixed up, then would it be possible that the signal connectors would actually have a different pin set-up.
First I rejected the thought, because it would be too stupid to be true. Then I thought again about it.....I found it strange that I couldn't identify the missing color. Esp. when running the menu screen of Jrok's williams board, the running Williams logos really have some clear identifiable colors, and yet I couldn't make out which one I missed.
Well combining all I checked the manuals of both the 900 and 900E again:
900:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=89744.0;attach=119338;image)
900E:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=89744.0;attach=119340;image)
SO, the Blue and the Red pins are reversed !!!! :dizzy: :dizzy: :dizzy: :dunno :dunno :dunno
How insane !
But also great because switching the pins will probably give me a perfect running 900E :) !!! Yihaa !
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Does anybody know what type of connectors the Hantarex are ? Brand/type ? And where to get them ?
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http://catalog.tycoelectronics.com/catalog/feat/en/c/23465?BML=10576,17761,17763
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I thank you good sir ! :cheers:
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Great, RS-online sells them too !
Housings:
http://nl.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=retrieveTfg&Ne=4294957974&N=4294905192+4294954322
Terminals:
http://nl.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=retrieveTfg&Ne=4294957974&N=4294905192+4294954782
Funny, I checked out the PDF that RS has for the terminals and it's a drawing with Italian texts. One of them says: Disegno Riservato "Olivetti". Don't have to know much Italian to understand that, design reserved for Olivetti, which was a well-known Italian computer brand in the 80's. This probably explains why I have never seen this type of connector before AND that Hantarex (which was Italian) used them....
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Tested my second 900 and it works fine :woot
It does need some serious degaussing though. Someone modded this one with two switches that allows the yoke wiring to be reversed. So by flipping the switches you can have the picture upside down or left right reversed or, of course completely mirrored. Nice for testing stuff but I don't need it now.
This one will go into my Puckman cab !
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Some interesting additional Hantarex 900 info:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=91072.0
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man I love the internet
hooking up a hantrex into a jamma adapter to a classic konami board-Lost Tomb
Googled up Hantrex video sync came right to this and fixed my problem in 5 min.
you rock Andre!
:cheers: