The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: Unstupid on February 28, 2012, 04:21:35 am
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Building a second cocktail table. Details in a post at the end of this thread here:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,118297.msg1344298.html#msg1344298 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,118297.msg1344298.html#msg1344298)
Details on the first cocktail table I built:
Well I can say I'm almost done... Only things left to do are mount a service and test switch inside the coin door and order me some custom control panel artwork. I wanted to see what the cab would look like before designing the artwork (and button color combination). The blue and yellow buttons are just stand ins until I figure out what to use to match the control panel artwork. Here is the pics.
(http://www.unstupid.com/myimages/mspac1.jpg)
You can see the white maple is a lot brighter than the original walnut colored sides
(http://www.unstupid.com/myimages/mspac2.jpg)
and it is heavily contrasted with the black t-molding, speaker grills, coin door and control panel
(http://www.unstupid.com/myimages/mspac3.jpg)
Player 1 control panel with red bubble top awaiting artwork. I had to have the stock JLW shafts shortened by 3/4" since there are no short shaft options. Infact I could not find any short shaft joysticks that use the 2.6"x3" (66..x76mm) bolt pattern. Luckily I have access to a full machine shop. :)
(http://www.unstupid.com/myimages/mspac4.jpg)
The refurbished coin door I bought at the 11th hour. Gotta love original hardware. You can see how light the wood really is. The veneer even shows some chatoyance at the right angles.
(http://www.unstupid.com/myimages/mspac5.jpg)
I scrapped the idea of using a vesa mount because after decasing the monitor the LCD panel was not strong enough to support its own weight and would sag away from the table top. Also you can see the flourscent lights used to illuminate the control panel. Also works good to light the box when I need to work inside. Also the spring can be seen that can hold the lid open when needed.
(http://www.unstupid.com/myimages/mspac6.jpg)
Not having a CRT monitor leaves lots of space inside the box. Wires on the bottom right just hanging there are for the service and test switches yet to be mounted. That 1 6x9 speaker really thumps inside this empty box. A lot of bass for ~10 watts!
(http://www.unstupid.com/myimages/mspac7.jpg)
I slotted the holders for the frosted plexi. You can also see the molex connectors that I like and everyone hates. I like the fact that they are hard to take apart. Don't want nothing coming loose when I'm going for the kill screen! :)
(http://www.unstupid.com/myimages/mspac8.jpg)
My custom bezel. I ended up sanding and painting it twice because I put a screw through it when mounting the flourscent lights! live and learn...
(http://www.unstupid.com/myimages/mspaccp1.jpg)
Here is an updated pic of the control panel with the artwork applied.
Questions.... Go!
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The original first post:
It's been a couple of months now since I finished my Bartop Neo Geo System (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=114435.0) and I feel like I'm ready for my next attempt at creating something. I don't really expect this to be anywhere near as innovative as the Neo Geo, but then again I don't expect this to be nearly as difficult either. First of all, there are already well documented plans for the cabinet (thanks Kyle Lindstrom), which will only take minor tweaking to make it even easier to cut an assemble with a CNC machine. The only major changes will be internal to the cab with a redesigned monitor mount assembly and tabletop hinge. Woodwork should be non existent since I'll be using 2 sided pre-finished plywood. And the artwork will be the standard Ms. PacMan garb that is already available. The games will run off a 60 in 1 icade jamma board which I already have a couple of lying around. Although I may look into picking up a arcade-sd board if the sound issues on the 60 in 1 are actually as bad as everyone says they are.
I'll post pics when I do something interesting.... Nothing good happening yet.... Still gotta order the parts I can't make like the cp's, silk screened glass top, and other hardware parts.
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Ok I got almost all the parts ordered... here is a running tally of what I ordered for the cab....
| Vendor | Item | Cost | Ordered | Part In |
| | | | |
Amazon | Monitor mount | $10.00 | x | x |
| Amazon | Fan | $10.00 | x | x |
| Amazon | Power Supply | $30.00 | x | x |
| Amazon | Monitor | $190.00 | x | x |
Holland Computer | Monitor Bezel | $20.00 | x | x |
| Mikes Arcade | Control Panel Tray | $30.00 | x | x |
| Mikes Arcade | Control Panel Blank Pair | $45.00 | x | x |
| Mikes Arcade | Cabinet Levelers | $29.00 | x | x |
| Mikes Arcade | Control Panel Bolts | $4.50 | x | x |
| Mikes Arcade | Light Plastic | $10.00 | x | x |
| Mikes Arcade | Z Bracket | $22.00 | x | x |
Mikes Arcade | Carriage Bolts coin door | $2.00 | x | x |
| Mikes Arcade | Speaker | $14.00 | x | x |
| Mikes Arcade | Bolt Set x3 speakers | $6.00 | x | x |
| Mikes Arcade | Midway Buttons | $10.00 | x | x |
| Paradise Arcade | 60-in-1 Jamma Board | $85.00 | x | x |
| Paradise Arcade | Jamma Harness | $10.00 | x | x |
| Paradise Arcade | Joysticks | $44.00 | x | x |
| Paradise Arcade | Buttons | $12.00 | x | x |
| Plywood Hawaii | 3/4 Finished Plywood | $110.00 | x | x |
| Plywood Hawaii | 1 Plywood | $100.00 | x | x |
| tmolding.com | T Molding 1" | $45.00 | x | x |
| tmolding.com | T Molding 3/4" | $40.00 | x | x |
Twisted Quarter | Coin door | $70.00 | x | x |
| Twisted Quarter | Speaker Cover x3 | $30.00 | x | x |
| Twisted Quarter | Cocktail Glas Clips x8 | $19.00 | x | x |
| twobits.com | Glass Underlay | $59.00 | x | x |
| xtremegameroom | Top Glass | $105.00 | x | x |
| E-Bay | Midway Coin Door | $90.00 | x | |
| | | | |
| Total | $1129.50 | | |
The prices don't always reflect shipping costs.... like the top glass has it added it in since it significnt but the orders from mikes arcade don't have shipping added since the cost of shipping would have been spread over numerous parts... but if I went back and added shipping to the stuff I ordered it would probably be another $100.
So we're probably around $1200 so far... hmm... I could probably buy an nice original Ms Pac Cocktail for that price... Wife thinks an original is too ugly for the family room... I'm hoping to make one a little more aesthetically pleasing... If I can't I'll probably be selling it for a loss! :-\
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Costs sure add up fast. Looking forward to seeing the CNC cut parts fitted together. :)
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So I orderd a Dell P190St for the display and got it in and it looked fine. In fact it looks identical to the 19" Ultrasharp I already had... But just for giggles I wanted to see what else was out there... So I looked around and found a 19" NEC LED (AS192) that got some decent reviews. so I though I'd give it a shot... Here is the side by side of the 2 monitors... The Dell is on the left and the NEC is on the right...
(http://www.unstupid.com/myimages/monitorcompare.jpg)
Guess which one is going in my cab... :D
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So I ran into a problem... The monitor dimensions of the screen are smaller than the hole in the glass top underlay I got from 2 bits not to mention 2 bits' underlay has rounded interrior corners... so I purchased a bezel from holland computers, and the bezel fits the monitor perfectly, but on the larger side of the bezel hole it is much larger than the hole in the underlay... so this would cause the underlay to eventually sag since there would be noting under it to support it. So what I ended up doing is desigining a custom bezel into the 1" table top that will perfectly fit the monitor and the underlay. Now I just have to sand, fill, sand and paint it. I told myself that I didn't want to paint anything durring this project... Uhh.... oh well!
(http://www.unstupid.com/myimages/beveledcptop.jpg)
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You ever get that feeling where you are all alone in the room just talking to yourself? Yes I do! Oh well I guess cocktail tables aren't that popular... I think you are right! Oh well... lets just finish this documentation incase someone comes along in the future and decides they want to build one too. Ok sounds good to me!
Anyways! I cut all the parts for the cocktail tonight. I was going to take video of the cut but since no one cares I figure why bother! All you get is a photo. :D 2 sided A-1 grade pre-finished white maple veneer plywood. What you see if the interior surfaces of the cocktail, and all the exterior surfaces are facing down.
(http://www.unstupid.com/myimages/cocktailcut.jpg)
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I'm here, watching silently.
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We're with you, friend.
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Count me in the audience!
Also, Im interested in that jamma 60 in 1 you bought, please tell us how it plays, sound and picture quality, etc.
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Nice looking build! :) I have built a few of these with my CNC router as well. It is really nice that the plans exist for free on the web. You usually have to modify the top piece to fit whatever monitor you use unless you are using an arcade monitor.
There are so many specialized parts and pieces that go with cocktail cabs that the price can get up there fast. Even little things like the glass clips can get pricey. However, I think that most of the cocktail cabs available online/Ebay are built like crap. If you've got a nice CNC machine and you build a sturdy cabinet, I think it is well worth building your own.
NICE JOB!! :applaud:
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I HATE YOU....actualy i dont, but i fell anvy when i see someone cutting all of theyr cabs part by cnc, i wish the shops here with a cnc machine wouldnt charge alot, that wuold make life easy, anyway, ibeen watching silent here too, as i got an old midway upndown cab i need to restore, im about to start , but i need to get me a portable saw to fix the water damage that has at the botton. also i wondering how that monitor its going to look mounted. so keep the good work, no videos though, pictures are just fine.
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:) Yay... I have followers! Hahaha I was wondering if anyone was out there besided Bob... Not that I don't like Bob!
On another note... I feel like kicking myself... I bought a couple blank control panels from Mikes Arcade and went and cut out the button holes on the router. I cut out 1 1/8" button holes (because thats what I usually use) for the Sanwa 30mm buttons I got from Paradise Arcade Shop... You see my mistake?
Cutting steel plates on a router is not fun! Gonna have to live with the 1 1/8" hole.. Uhh!
Stick around... The fun part is starting!
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Mate I'm following with interest too!
I've got friends wanting me to build them a cocktail cab so expect a message or 2 from me in the near future!
Scott
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:) Yay... I have followers! Hahaha I was wondering if anyone was out there besided Bob... Not that I don't like Bob!
Relax dude. Just because not a lot of people have replied, probably means you didn't have much to comment on. Price lists and LCD monitors don't really stir up much for conversation.
The CNC cuts are nice. Wish I had access to a CNC machine...
Anyways ---> (Read 867 times). We are out here. Keep up the progress and don't worry too much about the fame. Let the work speak for itself. ;)
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hey unstupid would be cool if you posted the cut files from your cnc ...:)
You using VcarvePro?
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No... Mastercam. Can you read MCX files?
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yes I can read MCX files :) my cnc is 8' by 4' looks like a complete panel would do it too..:)
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You can download the MCX file here... http://www.unstupid.com/myfiles/MsPacCocktail.zip (http://www.unstupid.com/myfiles/MsPacCocktail.zip)
A few notes:
- There is no table top piece. That was cut separately on a 1" piece of ply. Although there is space for the tabletop on this sheet if you are ok with it being 3/4" thick
There are 5 tool changes.
1- 1/8" flat bit to drill bolt holes for the vents and speaker grills also to cut out the C14 receptacle.
2- 1/4" chamber bit to scribe the lines where i need to drill 3/8" holes with the doweling jig in the side of the plywood
3- 1/4" flat bit drill out the 3/8" holes for the dowels (using a helix bore toolpath)
4- 3/8" compression bit to cut the holes, coindoor and finally the panel edges
5- 1/8" flat to clean up the inside radiuses on any internal 90degree cuts.
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thanks Unstupid ....just repairing a tach on my cnc now so the speed control can be put back on auto..
:)
those compression bits leave nice cuts huh :)
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Hi Guys
I'm really new to CNC routing and I think it's the only way I'll ever get around to building a cocktail cab.
Just wondering about a couple of things...
MCX - is that a fairly standard format?
And the various tool changes - are these the kind of things that your average cabinet maker would do day in day out?
THanks
Scott
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MCX is the format that Mastercam stores their files in. Different CAM packages use different formats. You could probably say Mastercam is the defecto standard in the CAM industry since they have the largest installed base. But you probably won't see a lot of hobbyists using it mainly because of price. One seat of Mastercam with router pro 5axis cost us about $18,000. Add another $5,000 for the c-hooks from Thermwood to get Mastercam to g-code for the machine and you can see why you don't see it a lot. There are a lot of other Cam software packages that cost a lot less that may work just fine with your machine!
As far as tool changes go, pro cabinet makers would be doing tool changed as they need. Our machine has an automatic tool changer so I can load up 4 different tools and program the machine to grab whichever one it needs to do the specific cut.
If you are interested in CNC you way want to wander over to cnczone.com and ask people there... There are people a lot more knowledgable than me over there!
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- There is no table top piece. That was cut separately on a 1" piece of ply. Although there is space for the tabletop on this sheet if you are ok with it being 3/4" thick
There are 5 tool changes.
1- 1/8" flat bit to drill bolt holes for the vents and speaker grills also to cut out the C14 receptacle.
2- 1/4" chamber bit to scribe the lines where i need to drill 3/8" holes with the doweling jig in the side of the plywood
3- 1/4" flat bit drill out the 3/8" holes for the dowels (using a helix bore toolpath)
4- 3/8" compression bit to cut the holes, coindoor and finally the panel edges
5- 1/8" flat to clean up the inside radiuses on any internal 90degree cuts.
What do you mean with tool change #2? Are literally you just marking a line where the dowels will be drilled? I can't see it in the picture. Maybe you can take a closeup shot for me? And did you mean 'chamber' bit, or 'chamfer' bit?
Also what do you use to drill the dowel-holes in the edge of the boards? Do you have a machine that does this? I would like to start using dowels instead of blocks because alignment is perfect and it would save so much time.
Any help here would be awesome!
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- There is no table top piece. That was cut separately on a 1" piece of ply. Although there is space for the tabletop on this sheet if you are ok with it being 3/4" thick
There are 5 tool changes.
1- 1/8" flat bit to drill bolt holes for the vents and speaker grills also to cut out the C14 receptacle.
2- 1/4" chamber bit to scribe the lines where i need to drill 3/8" holes with the doweling jig in the side of the plywood
3- 1/4" flat bit drill out the 3/8" holes for the dowels (using a helix bore toolpath)
4- 3/8" compression bit to cut the holes, coindoor and finally the panel edges
5- 1/8" flat to clean up the inside radiuses on any internal 90degree cuts.
What do you mean with tool change #2? Are literally you just marking a line where the dowels will be drilled? I can't see it in the picture. Maybe you can take a closeup shot for me? And did you mean 'chamber' bit, or 'chamfer' bit?
Also what do you use to drill the dowel-holes in the edge of the boards? Do you have a machine that does this? I would like to start using dowels instead of blocks because alignment is perfect and it would save so much time.
Any help here would be awesome!
Exactly what you said! I had the bit basically scratch a line on the boards at the edge of the panel. These lines will be used to accurtely line up my self centering jig (Woodcraft Here (http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2000782/9873/economy-doweling-jig.aspx)) that I use to drill a 3/8" dowel hole.
Here youll see it scribing some lines, then a couple points I need to drill out later, then it'll do a tool change:
Ms Pac cocktail construction (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3NcfWpZURS4#ws)
Here is the intro by woodcraft:
Self Centering Doweling Jig Presented by Woodcraft (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=veW9XVdBFH4#)
Edit... Oh yea chamfer bit is correct... The ones we use are similar to regular router chamfer bits but there is no bearing. like this:
(http://img.directindustry.com/images_di/photo-p/chamfering-tools-for-machine-tools-450874.jpg)
CNC bits almost never have a bearing.
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Exactly what you said! I had the bit basically scratch a line on the boards at the edge of the panel. These lines will be used to accurtely line up my self centering jig (Woodcraft Here (http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2000782/9873/economy-doweling-jig.aspx)) that I use to drill a 3/8" dowel hole.
Here youll see it scribing some lines, then a couple points I need to drill out later, then it'll do a tool change:
Ms Pac cocktail construction (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3NcfWpZURS4#ws)
that cnc machine is just awesome...I'm convinced you work for skynet. ;D
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Exactly what you said! I had the bit basically scratch a line on the boards at the edge of the panel. These lines will be used to accurtely line up my self centering jig (Woodcraft Here (http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2000782/9873/economy-doweling-jig.aspx)) that I use to drill a 3/8" dowel hole.
Edit... Oh yea chamfer bit is correct... The ones we use are similar to regular router chamfer bits but there is no bearing. like this:
(http://img.directindustry.com/images_di/photo-p/chamfering-tools-for-machine-tools-450874.jpg)
CNC bits almost never have a bearing.
Awesome... Great idea too! I already ordered a dowel jig. I almost bought one of those dowel jointers, but they apparently don't work very well.
I already have a 45 degree insert bit that has a permanent place on my machine. It will now have another use! :)
Thanks a million for your reply and help. You just made my arcade building life a LOT easier...
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Thanks a million for your reply and help. You just made my arcade building life a LOT easier...
That's what it's all about right? Exchanging ideas! ;)
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I thought you might like this one... This was when I cut a custom bezel out of 1" plywood for the cocktail table top.
I originally did it really slow to get a clean cut with a long 1/4" bit so I sped it up (a lot) so you can get an idea of whats going on.
(http://www.unstupid.com/myimages/beveledcptop.jpg)
Ms Pac cocktail tabletop cutting (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TaHvEO_0vVI#ws)
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I thought you might like this one... This was when I cut a custom bezel out of 1" plywood for the cocktail table top.
I originally did it really slow to get a clean cut with a long 1/4" bit so I sped it up (a lot) so you can get an idea of whats going on.
That is just redonkulous. My machine is a 3-axis that has the same spindle and an 8 tool changer, but that is where the similarities end. Most cuts are just 90 degrees unless I use an angled bit or build a crazy jig to hold the wood. I can't imagine the freedom of cutting any angle I want with such ease. (although your material depth must have to be spot-on to pull off that kind of accuracy) I already had router envy from the videos you posted in your Neo-Geo bartop build thread. Now I am really blown away. :notworthy: The precision of the spindle moving in three perfects arcs on three axes simultaneously to end up in the corner at the perfet angle is just sick! Thanks for sharing.
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Done.. Pics Uploaded! :D
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Looks great! I would use washers between the JLW's and the panel instead of shortening the shaft. I would also install a Scanline generator to help the LCD display the games as nice as possible: http://wp1114205.wp150.webpack.hosteurope.de/xtcmodified/index.php?cPath=3&XTCsid=kujuikjrac0ngosnscan04j257 (http://wp1114205.wp150.webpack.hosteurope.de/xtcmodified/index.php?cPath=3&XTCsid=kujuikjrac0ngosnscan04j257) or: http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/toodles-scanline-generator-t-slg-fully-assembled-v1-6.145407/ (http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/toodles-scanline-generator-t-slg-fully-assembled-v1-6.145407/)
I have the SKG-3000 myself, but Toodles version seems great too when they get back in stock.
(http://www.emphatic.se/SLG3000/fast_striker.jpg)
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Oh wow, that looks very clean! Good job! :applaud:
Is the coin plate just glued on there?
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Oh wow, that looks very clean! Good job! :applaud:
Is the coin plate just glued on there?
You talking about the chrome slots you insert the coin into? If so I believe they are screwed on. There is a slide chute behind it that is also screwed on.
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Looks great! I would use washers between the JLW's and the panel instead of shortening the shaft. I would also install a Scanline generator to help the LCD display the games as nice as possible: http://wp1114205.wp150.webpack.hosteurope.de/xtcmodified/index.php?cPath=3&XTCsid=kujuikjrac0ngosnscan04j257 (http://wp1114205.wp150.webpack.hosteurope.de/xtcmodified/index.php?cPath=3&XTCsid=kujuikjrac0ngosnscan04j257) or: http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/toodles-scanline-generator-t-slg-fully-assembled-v1-6.145407/ (http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/toodles-scanline-generator-t-slg-fully-assembled-v1-6.145407/)
I have the SKG-3000 myself, but Toodles version seems great too when they get back in stock.
I have 2 SLG 3000's that I bought for my neo bartop, but they don't work well with monitors that natively display anything other than 640x480 or 800x600 because when the monitor upscales the lines to a higher resolution it alse upscales the black lines which causes a strange banding effect. Also the cocktail cab has the monitor in the vertical orientation so the scan lines would be running up and down... strange looking!
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Oh wow, that looks very clean! Good job! :applaud:
Is the coin plate just glued on there?
You talking about the chrome slots you insert the coin into? If so I believe they are screwed on. There is a slide chute behind it that is also screwed on.
No no, I mean the midway face plate.
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Oh wow, that looks very clean! Good job! :applaud:
Is the coin plate just glued on there?
You talking about the chrome slots you insert the coin into? If so I believe they are screwed on. There is a slide chute behind it that is also screwed on.
No no, I mean the midway face plate.
oh yes that is just stuck on... the rivet holes are there... may look at finding the rives to match...
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there's nothing strange about scanlines running vertically.
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Also the cocktail cab has the monitor in the vertical orientation so the scan lines would be running up and down... strange looking!
Just like they would be on a real CRT. ;D Sorry, I had forgotten that you already got SLG's (too many memorable projects here). I would put it in for a quick test though, maybe you'll change your mind. :cheers:
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Looks great! I would use washers between the JLW's and the panel instead of shortening the shaft.
Thought about it but a couple of reasons I didn't. One I already had the carriage bolts and finding others the right length was hard. Two, they would have to be some pretty big washers. I cut off about 3/4" to get the height right. Also the travel length would have been too far. Under the glass there is not that much room to work with and the travel distance on a full size shaft is too far, not to mention that my joystick hole is only 3/4" in diameter. I looked all over for a short shaft joystick that had 2.6"x3" mounting holes but could not find anything. It worked out ok in the end:
(http://www.unstupid.com/myimages/shafts.jpg)
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That turned out beautiful! It looks ridiculously clean with the Maple plywood and black T-molding. I finally got my dowel jig that you recommended, and it works GREAT!!
Where did you get those spring hinges from? That is an ingenius idea, and much better than the original version that pivoted from the side panel. No need for all of that with a nice, light LCD monitor instead of a CRT.
Again, great job!
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That turned out beautiful! It looks ridiculously clean with the Maple plywood and black T-molding. I finally got my dowel jig that you recommended, and it works GREAT!!
Where did you get those spring hinges from? That is an ingenius idea, and much better than the original version that pivoted from the side panel. No need for all of that with a nice, light LCD monitor instead of a CRT.
Again, great job!
Hey thanks... Yea that doweling jig makes things real easy as long as you line things up in the right spot. I got the lid supports from Woodcraft as well as the "chest hinges". With the lig supports youll need at least 1 right and 1 left. The lid is still pretty heavy; monitor, 1" plywood and 1/4" glass as well as lights and hardware. this is them: http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2001040/16/lid-support-right--95125-ip-lids.aspx (http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2001040/16/lid-support-right--95125-ip-lids.aspx) Make sure you get the ones with the heaviest rating!
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Forgot to post a couple of construction images I took while putting everything togesther:
(http://www.unstupid.com/myimages/mspacconst1.jpg)
Coin box and base. Those holes in the corners are for the shafts of the leveling feet.
(http://www.unstupid.com/myimages/mspacconst2.jpg)
Sides going on.
(http://www.unstupid.com/myimages/mspacconst3.jpg)
Base complete. that is the cutout for the Midway coin door. I still had to drill out the holes for mounting. Also notice the .3"x1.5" notch on the top of the back wall. That is for the chest hinge to sit into so that the top will sit flush on the base... and it fits perfectly!
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Looks great! Hope mine turns out as well as yours.
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How much for the cabinet boards flat packed?
This.
Your project turned out sweet! :applaud:
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How much for the cabinet boards flat packed?
This.
Your project turned out sweet! :applaud:
Thanks... I don't have plans to offer this in a flat pack. In Hawaii and you would really eat it on the shipping costs... Besides there are countless others already offering Ms Pac copies out there...
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Looks great! I would use washers between the JLW's and the panel instead of shortening the shaft. I would also install a Scanline generator to help the LCD display the games as nice as possible: http://wp1114205.wp150.webpack.hosteurope.de/xtcmodified/index.php?cPath=3&XTCsid=kujuikjrac0ngosnscan04j257 (http://wp1114205.wp150.webpack.hosteurope.de/xtcmodified/index.php?cPath=3&XTCsid=kujuikjrac0ngosnscan04j257) or: http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/toodles-scanline-generator-t-slg-fully-assembled-v1-6.145407/ (http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/toodles-scanline-generator-t-slg-fully-assembled-v1-6.145407/)
I have the SKG-3000 myself, but Toodles version seems great too when they get back in stock.
(http://www.emphatic.se/SLG3000/fast_striker.jpg)
I did end up sticking a SLG-3000 in the cocktail cab permanantly... it looks really good with it connected and there are no banding issues.... I don't know why it doesn't work well on the neo geo... I'm thinking that it has something to do with some incompatibility with the CGA to VGA converter. I'm not sure... will have to do some more tests...
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Nice job Unstupid! This turned out really well.
How do you like that jamma board?
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Nice job Unstupid! This turned out really well.
Thanks!
How do you like that jamma board?
I don't! It kinda sucks! I mean game play is fine... but when your game is over it kicks you out back to the select game screen... God forbid you want to have another go at DK! If you want to use it as a dedicated replacement then it may work fine... but I think I'm going to spring for an ArcadeSD from Phoenix Arcade...
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... but I think I'm going to spring for an ArcadeSD from Phoenix Arcade...
That looks very interesting. Pretty high cost too.
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... but I think I'm going to spring for an ArcadeSD from Phoenix Arcade...
That looks very interesting. Pretty high cost too.
Yes, the 60-in-1 sucks that bad!
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This is refreshing! Great to see a material other than MDF being used in a clean build. Dowel jointing and nice timber finish look as well.
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This is refreshing! Great to see a material other than MDF being used in a clean build. Dowel jointing and nice timber finish look as well.
Wow, thanks Ond! That means a lot coming from a craftsman of your caliber! ;)
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Wow! This looks great! I love the finish on this thing! :applaud:
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I like the finish too. Great look/feel to it. Can't wait to see more!
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Thx guys....
I did add the artwork for the control panel... had it printed locally on a vinyl adhesive with a 3m UV resistant overlay... It came out a little long to where it is starting to wrap down the curve on the front so I may reprint them shorter... Also I may go back and add some more artwork... maybe replace the generic player start mans with the Ms Pac images on the original CP... I originally wanted the art work to be real simple... I think I may have gone too simple.
(http://www.unstupid.com/myimages/mspaccp1.jpg)
(http://www.unstupid.com/myimages/mspaccp2.jpg)
(http://www.unstupid.com/myimages/mspactop.jpg)
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Every time I see a cocktail cab like this, it makes me want PIZZA! :cheers:
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Exquisite! :cheers:
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That came out GREAT. Excellent work, I want one!
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Wow! :o What a thing of beauty! Great job. I wish I had a good place to put a cocktail cab. If I were to ever build one I'll use yours as my inspiration. :applaud:
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The original first post:
It's been a couple of months now since I finished my Bartop Neo Geo System (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=114435.0) and I feel like I'm ready for my next attempt at creating something. I don't really expect this to be anywhere near as innovative as the Neo Geo, but then again I don't expect this to be nearly as difficult either. First of all, there are already well documented plans for the cabinet (thanks Kyle Lindstrom), which will only take minor tweaking to make it even easier to cut an assemble with a CNC machine. The only major changes will be internal to the cab with a redesigned monitor mount assembly and tabletop hinge. Woodwork should be non existent since I'll be using 2 sided pre-finished plywood. And the artwork will be the standard Ms. PacMan garb that is already available. The games will run off a 60 in 1 icade jamma board which I already have a couple of lying around. Although I may look into picking up a arcade-sd board if the sound issues on the 60 in 1 are actually as bad as everyone says they are.
I'll post pics when I do something interesting.... Nothing good happening yet.... Still gotta order the parts I can't make like the cp's, silk screened glass top, and other hardware parts.
Thx guys....
I did add the artwork for the control panel... had it printed locally on a vinyl adhesive with a 3m UV resistant overlay... It came out a little long to where it is starting to wrap down the curve on the front so I may reprint them shorter... Also I may go back and add some more artwork... maybe replace the generic player start mans with the Ms Pac images on the original CP... I originally wanted the art work to be real simple... I think I may have gone too simple.
(http://www.unstupid.com/myimages/mspaccp1.jpg)
(http://www.unstupid.com/myimages/mspaccp2.jpg)
(http://www.unstupid.com/myimages/mspactop.jpg)
Thx guys....
I did add the artwork for the control panel... had it printed locally on a vinyl adhesive with a 3m UV resistant overlay... It came out a little long to where it is starting to wrap down the curve on the front so I may reprint them shorter... Also I may go back and add some more artwork... maybe replace the generic player start mans with the Ms Pac images on the original CP... I originally wanted the art work to be real simple... I think I may have gone too simple.
(http://www.unstupid.com/myimages/mspaccp1.jpg)
(http://www.unstupid.com/myimages/mspaccp2.jpg)
(http://www.unstupid.com/myimages/mspactop.jpg)
Excellent Post, Many Thanks for sharing this top Project of yours, showing your great work.
Would you be able to post a control panal template showing the centres for the buttons & Joystick you used in your project .
this is the perfect layout for a project i,m undertaking.
Cheers
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I have recently started work on a new Ms Pac Cocktail table. This one is going to be a wedding present for my cousin and her girlfriend. It will be a more true replica of a Ms Pac Table; joystick only CP's, standard artwork, walnut wood grain etc... because it is so similar to the first cab I build I didnt think it would need a dedicated project thread. I will post more construction pics this time... maybe even a little time-lapse video. in the mean time I have started with the coin door. I bought a new midway repro door on KLOV and an old beat up door on ebay for the rest of the door. I spend some time removing the rust and repolishing the parts you can see. Also reset the coin counter... check out the progress:
(http://www.unstupid.com/myimages/cd1.jpg)
(http://www.unstupid.com/myimages/cd2.jpg)
(http://www.unstupid.com/myimages/cd3.jpg)
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Great work Unstupid. Both my wife and I are huge fans of the Cocktail cabs. Why I am building a bartop for my first cab is beyond me. :dunno
I have two seemingly simple questions. 1. Where did you purchase your clips for the wires inside your cabinet? 2. Are these [url]http://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=PB903[url] the buttons you purchased for the start of player one and player two?
Thank you for the help and keep up the good work.
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Great work Unstupid. Both my wife and I are huge fans of the Cocktail cabs. Why I am building a bartop for my first cab is beyond me. :dunno
I have two seemingly simple questions. 1. Where did you purchase your clips for the wires inside your cabinet? 2. Are these the buttons you purchased for the start of player one and player two?
Thank you for the help and keep up the good work.
(http://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=PB903[url)
Thanks for the kind words. Answer to question #1 is digikey.com. Those are .062 molex connectors. If you go on their site and search for that you'll find it. You'll need 5 parts for the connector. Male receptacle, female receptacle, male pins, female pins, and a crimp tool. The receptacles come in many different pin/circuit configurations depending on how many you need for your application. Also digikey sells the pins in bulk (like 500) so it much cheaper to but them this way to use for all your future projects ;)
Question 2, yes that's the switch! You can also get it at twisted quarter for a little cheaper.
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Not quite what I meant. :lol I meant the black clips that are on the walls of the cab itself with your wires zip tied on to them. Hope that makes more sense. I'm a sucker for organization. ;D
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Not quite what I meant. :lol I meant the black clips that are on the walls of the cab itself with your wires zip tied on to them. Hope that makes more sense. I'm a sucker for organization. ;D
Oops my bad. Got those from McMaster. They call em zip tie anchors. Those are adhesive backed with screw mount. Here: http://www.mcmaster.com/#zip-tie-anchors/=ly5me4 (http://www.mcmaster.com/#zip-tie-anchors/=ly5me4). Letter E
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wow, really nice job on that! I really need to stop checking out these builds, the project wish list keeps going up... :notworthy:
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You ever get that feeling where you are all alone in the room just talking to yourself? Yes I do! Oh well I guess cocktail tables aren't that popular... I think you are right! Oh well... lets just finish this documentation incase someone comes along in the future and decides they want to build one too. Ok sounds good to me!
Anyways! I cut all the parts for the cocktail tonight. I was going to take video of the cut but since no one cares I figure why bother! All you get is a photo. :D 2 sided A-1 grade pre-finished white maple veneer plywood. What you see if the interior surfaces of the cocktail, and all the exterior surfaces are facing down.
(http://www.unstupid.com/myimages/cocktailcut.jpg)
I would love to have seen how you cut this. I LOVE cocktail cabinets, the most under-appreciated cabinet style, and I'm starting to get some woodworking coworkers interested in my hobby.
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I tell you what, I'll be cutting panels for the second cab sometime durring the next week. I'll try and capture some video of the cut process. Though it's not unlike the cut process used to cut my Neo geo cabs:
(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tEWHzLQpzCY#ws)
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I tell you what, I'll be cutting panels for the second cab sometime durring the next week. I'll try and capture some video of the cut process. Though it's not unlike the cut process used to cut my Neo geo cabs:
(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tEWHzLQpzCY#ws)
Do you cut them yourselves, or do you have them done somewhere? A coworker's relative has possession of wood CNC machine; It would be wonderful if I could just hand him the files to produce the parts for a cocktail cabinet, rather than redrawing them in whatever CAD program.
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Trying to get in touch with unstupid or anyone who can help me save an investment in what turned out to be a pretty botched cocktail cabinet conversion
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Trying to get in touch with unstupid or anyone who can help me save an investment in what turned out to be a pretty botched cocktail cabinet conversion
What happened to your cocktail?
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I can't get over what a gorgeous build this is. I'm probably going to use a darker wood for mine, though, more stock-looking, I hope.
What woods did you use? Plywood, clearly, but what species? I know little about wood species. What would you recommend for a darker look, staining or darker wood?
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I can't get over what a gorgeous build this is. I'm probably going to use a darker wood for mine, though, more stock-looking, I hope.
What woods did you use? Plywood, clearly, but what species? I know little about wood species. What would you recommend for a darker look, staining or darker wood?
This one was done in A-1 grade 3/4" prefinished white maple plywood. You don't find this stuff at home depot... youd have to get it from a plywood specialty store. It's really meant for cabinet makers... If you are looking for something more original look for the prefinished walnut. Infact I'm going to be cutting a couple of walnut cabs in the next week or so... I'll shoot some pics when I'm done.
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This one was done in A-1 grade 3/4" prefinished white maple plywood. You don't find this stuff at home depot... youd have to get it from a plywood specialty store. It's really meant for cabinet makers... If you are looking for something more original look for the prefinished walnut. Infact I'm going to be cutting a couple of walnut cabs in the next week or so... I'll shoot some pics when I'm done.
Nice. Many people say cocktail cabinets aren't very popular, but it's my favorite form factor, and you're pumping them out like there's no tomorrow.
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You can download the MCX file here... http://www.unstupid.com/myfiles/MsPacCocktail.zip (http://www.unstupid.com/myfiles/MsPacCocktail.zip)
A few notes:
- There is no table top piece. That was cut separately on a 1" piece of ply. Although there is space for the tabletop on this sheet if you are ok with it being 3/4" thick
There are 5 tool changes.
1- 1/8" flat bit to drill bolt holes for the vents and speaker grills also to cut out the C14 receptacle.
2- 1/4" chamber bit to scribe the lines where i need to drill 3/8" holes with the doweling jig in the side of the plywood
3- 1/4" flat bit drill out the 3/8" holes for the dowels (using a helix bore toolpath)
4- 3/8" compression bit to cut the holes, coindoor and finally the panel edges
5- 1/8" flat to clean up the inside radiuses on any internal 90degree cuts.
I've found a local CNC shop who has the tooling to make what is defined in this MCX file, however they cannot read MCX files. Can you provide it in a more accessible format, such as DWG or DXF?
edit: I wound up re-creating the cabinet in SketchUp. (https://s3.amazonaws.com/sandheaver_arcade/Ms.Pacman.Cocktail.Cabinet.skp)
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Do you have the MCX file for the tabletop?
You can download the MCX file here... http://www.unstupid.com/myfiles/MsPacCocktail.zip (http://www.unstupid.com/myfiles/MsPacCocktail.zip)
A few notes:
- There is no table top piece. That was cut separately on a 1" piece of ply. Although there is space for the tabletop on this sheet if you are ok with it being 3/4" thick
There are 5 tool changes.
1- 1/8" flat bit to drill bolt holes for the vents and speaker grills also to cut out the C14 receptacle.
2- 1/4" chamber bit to scribe the lines where i need to drill 3/8" holes with the doweling jig in the side of the plywood
3- 1/4" flat bit drill out the 3/8" holes for the dowels (using a helix bore toolpath)
4- 3/8" compression bit to cut the holes, coindoor and finally the panel edges
5- 1/8" flat to clean up the inside radiuses on any internal 90degree cuts.
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Do you have the MCX file for the tabletop?
You can download the MCX file here... http://www.unstupid.com/myfiles/MsPacCocktail.zip (http://www.unstupid.com/myfiles/MsPacCocktail.zip)
A few notes:
- There is no table top piece. That was cut separately on a 1" piece of ply. Although there is space for the tabletop on this sheet if you are ok with it being 3/4" thick
There are 5 tool changes.
1- 1/8" flat bit to drill bolt holes for the vents and speaker grills also to cut out the C14 receptacle.
2- 1/4" chamber bit to scribe the lines where i need to drill 3/8" holes with the doweling jig in the side of the plywood
3- 1/4" flat bit drill out the 3/8" holes for the dowels (using a helix bore toolpath)
4- 3/8" compression bit to cut the holes, coindoor and finally the panel edges
5- 1/8" flat to clean up the inside radiuses on any internal 90degree cuts.
http://www.unstupid.com/myimages/cocktailtop.mcx (http://www.unstupid.com/myimages/cocktailtop.mcx)
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Thanks. There was an error in the link but i figured it out.
http://www.unstupid.com/myimages/cocktailtop.zip (http://www.unstupid.com/myimages/cocktailtop.zip)
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Webman: can you convert those MCX files to something a little less proprietary?
I wound up re-creating the Kyle Lindstrom Ms. Pacman cocktail into Sketchup, but I noticed that Unstupid's design is modified slightly, and had LCDs in mind (mainly the hinge and fulcrum for the top, as far as I can tell from here).
I like Unstupid's design better; can I get those MCX files converted to DXF or DWG? Something I can share with a CNC operator that doesn't have the ability to read MCX?
Many thanks either way.
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I can post The DWG files if you want...
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I can post The DWG files if you want...
Ah, that would be excellent. Thank you.
I requested that earlier but you didn't respond, so I assumed you were unwilling or unable.
Thank you.
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I can post The DWG files if you want...
Ah, that would be excellent. Thank you.
I requested that earlier but you didn't respond, so I assumed you were unwilling or unable.
Thank you.
sorry must have skimmed over it.
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Here it is: http://www.unstupid.com/myimages/Unstupids-Cocktail-Table.zip (http://www.unstupid.com/myimages/Unstupids-Cocktail-Table.zip)
Couple things to note...
The recess in the Top piece is to fit the sitdown 19" LCD monitor bezel here: http://na.suzohapp.com/monitors/49276500.htm (http://na.suzohapp.com/monitors/49276500.htm)
The notch in the back panel is to fit the cabinet hinge available here (Flush Style 14): http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-cabinet-hinges/=mp3h8g (http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-cabinet-hinges/=mp3h8g)
The power receptacle cutout is to fit the receptacle available here: http://www.amazon.com/Amico-IEC320-Module-Switch-Socket/dp/B0050HH70E (http://www.amazon.com/Amico-IEC320-Module-Switch-Socket/dp/B0050HH70E)
The coin box has been oversized to fit this one here: http://www.twistedquarter.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=171_174&products_id=250&zenid=jibsqr91b0kvdj34s1kt85k865 (http://www.twistedquarter.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=171_174&products_id=250&zenid=jibsqr91b0kvdj34s1kt85k865)
The hole in the front is made to fit a midway coin door but I didn't cut out extra space for the 3 screws on the hinge since mine doesn't have em.
There is slots on the control panel sides to insert and hold a 1/8" piece of white frosted plexiglass. Had to do it this way since the no longer sell/make the z-brackets that was used to hold it in the past.
Let me know if you have any questions!
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are you using the metal cocktail controllers or did you create your own wood ones? i may have missed it.
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whoops.. missed the list of parts. I really like those clips though.. do you know where I can get them in 1"? Reason being, I'm using 3/4" tabletop for my cab and 1/4"plexi. Most people use a 1" top so finding good clips like yours is hard.
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There is a problem with the cad files that I posted earlier.... The spacing of the holes for the coin box on the bottom panel is wrong... I'll fix and reupload....
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whoops.. missed the list of parts. I really like those clips though.. do you know where I can get them in 1"? Reason being, I'm using 3/4" tabletop for my cab and 1/4"plexi. Most people use a 1" top so finding good clips like yours is hard.
http://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=CTCLIPS34 (http://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=CTCLIPS34)
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that was quick! thanks man.. pretty pricey though.. ouch. oh well.. gotta make it look good :)
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ok CAD files are fixed: http://www.unstupid.com/myimages/Unstupids-Cocktail-Table.zip (http://www.unstupid.com/myimages/Unstupids-Cocktail-Table.zip)