The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: romshark on April 10, 2016, 10:49:17 pm
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(Update June 8, 2020) I'm basically done with this update. I did plan to post more about the software updates for the JammaPC I recently built just for this machine, but never got around to it, and I don't see getting to it any time soon. So this cabinet is marked done...again.
(Update January 19, 2020) Doing some upgrades and renovations to this cabinet.
The newest updates start here! (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,150357.msg1705172.html#msg1705172)
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This build has been completed! Here's a couple pics of the build. There's a lot more pics of the finished cabinet, as well as the build process, in this topic. Hope my methods (and mistakes) help out others in their builds. Enjoy!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=350021;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=350041;image)
Original starting post below this line.
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Heroes in a Half-Shell! Turtle Power!
Please note that I'm working 48 hours a week these days, and have other stuff that may need to be done too. I may go a week or so between any progress or updates.
I grew up as a fan of the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles. I watched the cartoon ((the one that started in the late 80s), the movies, and had various action figures, the party wagon, the Turtle Blimp, and more. Imagine my surprise the first time I saw a TMNT arcade machine! I couldn't play it at the time (we had to get going), but I did play it a week or so later on my 8th birthday, at Chuck E Cheese. I've seen TMNT units since then, but I spent more time playing the NES version, until I learned of MAME.
Fast forward to current day. I came into possession of an arcade CRT monitor (with board and bezel) a few years ago, and it's been taking up space. When figuring out what to do with it, I decided to build a cabinet for TMNT (something I've always wanted.)
Initial research started last year, back in October I think. I compared the Jakobud plans with Classic Arcade Cabinets. I even did an overlay of the plans over the other to see how they matched up.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346447;image)
(black is Jackobud, red is Classic Arcade Cabinets)
In the end, I decided to go with the Jakobud plans, since they have measurements I can use. I did add some stuff from the Classic Arcade Cabinets image, like the rounded bottom edges and a slight cutout on the bottom (even though I'm not using a bottom fan intake system.) The pics of cabinets I can find online have these features.
I don't have access to a real TMNT for reference (or any other Konami game that used the same basic cabinet design), so I'm going by the plans, and what I can find on the Internet. I'm primarily using Malenko's award-winning (literally) TMNT Cab Restoration poject (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,143795.0/all.html), Bakushan's TMNT restoration over on the KLOV forums (http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=279730), and Szabo's Arcades Youtube videos on restoring a Simpsons arcade machine (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zgVYt-F60io). I want my cabinet to look just like the big versions, at least externally.
So...where does the "Half-Shell" part come from? Well, the CRT is only a 14-inch unit, from what I can tell. So I figured the cabinet is going to be about half the size. I looked up the monitor used in the original cabinet (WG K7000. Source: KLOV (http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=289206)). I carefully discharged my CRT and removed it (I had tested it before to make sure the thing even worked. This whole project is doomed if that thing stops working), and compared the listed K7000 dimensions with mine. I calculated that the measurements need to be multiplied by .565 to get the size I want. The monitor and cabinet should fit perfectly together...except the tube depth. More on that later.
I want the cabinet to look just like the full-sized version. There are a few things that will have to be different, though.
* The size. Of course.
* Only 2 players. I'm not sure I can cram 4 player controls into such a small space. Maybe if anyone knows of half-size controls that actually work well, I can buld a second control panel for it. Only if the controls work well and aren't just to make my cabinet a "novelty / display item."
* 3 buttons per player. For compatibility with X-Men and other 3 button games.
* No coin door. There's no room. I like having coin doors, but I'm going to forgo it on this build. I'm instead using Coin Drop Replacement Pushbuttons (http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=89&products_id=295) from GroovyGameGear.
* No coin door means the standard control panel release option won't work. There's no opening to reach through to get to it. And I'm not going to try to get my arm around the CRT from the back. I've thought about varous ways to hold down the control panel, but I think I'll secure it to the control panel box with screws from the bottom. Some way so I can still open the control panel when I need to.
* The back. Besides the power switch being on the bottom back instead of the top of the cabinet, I'll have to build the back door with a hump for the CRT and Neckboard. You see, my crt is about 2 inches longer than if I really somehow shrunk a WG 7000 down to the same picture size. So my choices are a hump in the rear door, make all measurements on the cabinet bigger so the back of the tube fits (but the picture would be small relative to the cabinet), or strech the sides further back to match the tube (but that would destort the side art.) So I decided to go the hump method.
Also, I plan to use real Jamma boards. I already have TMNT, Turtles in Time, X-Men, and the Simpsons. I plan to play them all in this cabinet.
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So, the first thing I did was figure out the dimensions (multiply by .565) and sketch them on wood (the sides are using 1/2 inch MDF.) And then I re-checked my measurements. And re-checked. Overall, I had around 4 days before I could cut, so I changed and adjusted the measurements.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346449;image)
Finally, over the weekend, I started cutting. I cut it out with a scroll saw first (outside the lines).
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346439;image)
Then used a flush trim bit and a flat piece clamped to the bottom as a guide. The edges came out nice and smooth. Man, I wish I had my router and flush trim bits back on my first cabinet.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346441;image)
My only real screw-up is around the marquee area of one of the sides. The flat piece I used with the flush trim bit moved, and I cut into it. I still managed to finish the rest of that side off, and used it to cut out a second piece for the other side (without the imperfection). I cut off the damaged peice and wood-glued a new peice. The next day, I carefully routed it using the second side as a template with the flush trim bit.
The replacement part is bigger than the damaged area. That way, I could put a clamp on part of the new area and route out the other side perfectly (without the router ripping the new part off). I cut the troth to fill in later. I've heard people sing praises about Automotive Bondo, so I'm gonna give that a shot.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346445;image)
This odd leftover piece is going to hold my CRT (it bolts on from the front). I'll trim off the weird top part later. This part won't normally be seen anyway (behind the bezel). Just getting it cut so I can spend time measuring and marking it for cutting. If it doesn't work, I can use it as a template for a good one.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346443;image)
That's all I have for now.
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The concept is interesting to me. I look forward to seeing this come together.
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I commend you for knowing the limitations and not trying to cram 4 players on that. Good job! :cheers:
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I'm excited to see this completed. I love the shape of the konami 4 player cabs.
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Hide a couple USB ports somewhere on it. That way, if you DO every have 3 or 4 folks wanting to play you can just plug in a gamepad.
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Hide a couple USB ports somewhere on it. That way, if you DO every have 3 or 4 folks wanting to play you can just plug in a gamepad.
Good idea. Only caveat would be will only work if the side panels don't block LoS to the monitor for players 3 and 4.
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Good idea. Only caveat would be will only work if the side panels don't block LoS to the monitor for players 3 and 4.
Four guys playing on a 14" screen is never going to happen.
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Good idea. Only caveat would be will only work if the side panels don't block LoS to the monitor for players 3 and 4.
Four guys playing on a 14" screen is never going to happen.
:cheers:
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Looks like the people have spoken, and 4-player on a small cabinet/screen would completely ruin the ability to play. So this unit will stay 2 player max at all times. Glad my TMNT board is equipped with the 2-player chip set already (still need to get the 2P chips for Turtles in Time, or buy a chip burner and burn my own. However, that's a different topic for another time.)
Hide a couple USB ports somewhere on it. That way, if you DO every have 3 or 4 folks wanting to play you can just plug in a gamepad.
That would be kinda difficult. I'm planning on using Jamma boards, not a PC (for now, anyway). That said, in theory, it might not be impossible. I'm thinking an Arduino microcontroller could read some xBox 360 controllers. It could then make specific outputs go low, which could be connected to the pins on the Jamma board, and look like an active switch.
Such a system would have problems, though. Possibly input lag. Also, the characters would be bound to the controllers for most of my games (Leonardo and Michelangelo would have to be operated from the arcade controllers, Donatello and Raphael would have to use the gamepads.) Even on a MAME computer, this would be an issue, unless you re-configured the inputs every time, or had some neat utility that configured it on the fly for you ("Player 1: Press START on the control set you wish to use.")
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Looks like the people have spoken, and 4-player on a small cabinet/screen would completely ruin the ability to play. So this unit will stay 2 player max at all times. Glad my TMNT board is equipped with the 2-player chip set already (still need to get the 2P chips for Turtles in Time, or buy a chip burner and burn my own. However, that's a different topic for another time.)
Hide a couple USB ports somewhere on it. That way, if you DO every have 3 or 4 folks wanting to play you can just plug in a gamepad.
That would be kinda difficult. I'm planning on using Jamma boards, not a PC (for now, anyway). That said, in theory, it might not be impossible. I'm thinking an Arduino microcontroller could read some xBox 360 controllers. It could then make specific outputs go low, which could be connected to the pins on the Jamma board, and look like an active switch.
Such a system would have problems, though. Possibly input lag. Also, the characters would be bound to the controllers for most of my games (Leonardo and Michelangelo would have to be operated from the arcade controllers, Donatello and Raphael would have to use the gamepads.) Even on a MAME computer, this would be an issue, unless you re-configured the inputs every time, or had some neat utility that configured it on the fly for you ("Player 1: Press START on the control set you wish to use.")
Why overcomplicate it. Keep it at two players and your guest will be happy.
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Oh, I'm not planning on doing it. I'm just saying how I think it could be done. No worries.
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Didn't realize you had PCBs. Never mind.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3FnpaWQJO0 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3FnpaWQJO0)
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I did some stuff today, so here's the update.
I picked up some Bondo (Automotive body filler), and decided to use some to fill in that gap from my previous mistake. That way, I can sand it down during some down time over the next few days (time that wouldn't be long enough to break out all the power tools and such for the major construction.)
Now, I've never used Bondo before. For some strange reason, I thought it was going to be like silly putty or Play-Doh. So I put a little in my (plastic gloved) hand, added some of the hardening stuff, and tried kneeding it together. That...failed miserably. :P
Now realizing that it's more like cake icing, I got an old clean cream cheese container. Mixed a bit of the Bondo up in that, and used a putty knife to put it where I wanted to. And wow, the stuff really hardened fast. The little bit I had left over turned to stone in the mixing container in no time.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346543;image)
I know, I probably used too much. I'll work on portion control in the future. I think it's probably hard by now, but I'm gonna wait till tomorrow to start smoothing it out.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346545;image)
Next, I worked on the front bottom panel. Most of the front, rear, and top paneling will be made of 1/8 hardwood, with some strips of 3/4 mdf inside for structural stability. Got that cut out, then I cut out the openings for the coin up buttons.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346547;image)
Finally, I cut out these pieces to hold the coin button in place. If you look, the coin button extends beyond the front panel wood. So I took some 1/2 mdf, drilled some holes for the buttons, routed out some clearance space, and cut into nice size to hold the coin buttons. I'll probably glue them into place in the future, but I'll leave them loose for now. I'll be using the front piece as a size reference when building the other panels.
And that ends this update. My next planned part is the monitor part. I think the original used a monitor that bolted to a shelf under it. My monitor bolts on from the front (mounting holes near the edges of the tubes viewing area.) I originally planned to use a leftover section of 1/2 mdf, but I decided to go with some 3/4 mdf for stability (and add more area I can screw into from the sides.)
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Got some work done today:
I cut some 3/4 MDF to bolt the monitor to (it bolts in from the front.) Test fit the monitor, and glued wood strips to perfectly center the monitor (at the mounting brackets). I then drilled the holes for the actual bolts.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346677;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346679;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346687;image)
I then cut out the board for the monitor bezel, based off the broken and oversized one it came with. Used a router pattern bit to make a perfect replica of the opening. Tested with the actual plastic bezel part.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346681;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346683;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346685;image)
Also cut out a part for the base (no picture) and sanded smooth the bondo-repaired areas on the main side parts (also no picture).
An edit to the last post- I found out the wood I used for the bottom front panel is really 3/16 hardwood (leftover from the old days.) The 1/8 hardwood I just picked up is too flimsy for the other panels (the ones other than the side panels). I kept one for the bezel board, but returned the unused one. Home Depot no longer stocks 3/8 hardwood, so I instead picked up 1/4 birch plywood for the panels. Haven't cut any yet.
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Today, I did a mock setup of the monitor and bezel. I already calculated the front offset and monitor glass distances. I think that, in the original machine, the monitor glass rested on the bezel part. I can't do that, since the monitor tube front actually sticks out a bit through the bezel. So I had to figure out how far back to put the tube. I used a special interlocking building material (LEGOs) to hold up the back end of the tube.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346704;image)
Actual woodworking started with cutting some strips of of MDF battons to hold the panels together. However, they came out...not square (a table saw would be nice here, if I had one.) I had planned on using them anyway, but then I saw the battons Zinger used in "Yet Another Donkey Kong Scatch Build." (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,150085.0.html) So I plan on heading to Home Depot and picking up the same dowel rods. They should work better than my homemade ones.
Then, I started working with the plywood for the panels, starting with the rear top panel and speaker panels (as they had sections that needed to be cut out). I first cut out the speaker openings and vents using a new 1/8 router bit, which came out nice. Notice the lines next to the cutouts? That's the radius from my router to the cutout. So clamping a wood board against that line makes a guide for my router to make a straight line cutout.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346706;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346708;image)
I then cut the panels to fit between the side panels (width). I'll cut the length when I get closer to putting it all together; I want to make sure they'll fit perfectly.
Over the next week, I plan on installing the battons (although with the smaller 1/4 and 3/8 panels, I might not be able to get away with only using screws from the inside. I'll check Home Depot for screws that might be the right length. Otherwise, I'll just use screws from the outside and some Bondo). I also need to start planning out my control panel and its box.
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Good job so far, keep up the updates.
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Update time!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346962;image)
First, I routed the slot for the T-Molding. I wasn't sure if the original had T-Molding on the back, but I decided to go ahead and put it on the back on mine. I'm going with green T-Molding. T-Molding.com carries green T-Molding in 1/2 size, which I don't believe they had when I checked back in fall of last year. Maybe it's a sign that this cabinet was meant to be. :)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346964;image)
I did check online to make sure I put the blade on the correct direction (as I do every time I use it.) A topic in the Reviews part of this forum used to be my reference (that posted the dangers of mounting the blade backwards), but the pictures in that topic have since become broken images. So here's the right way to mount the blade (for my own future reference, as well as other people).
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346966;image)
Picked up a plywood blade. My plywood still splinters a bit with it, but not nearly as much. If I can get satisfactory results, I might build future cabinets out of plywood instead of MDF. Requires more research into the "MDF vs Plywood" topic too.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346968;image)
Cut a panel out for the fan intake and the power inlet / switch. The fan was from an old CPU heatsink unit. The power inlet I got from Amazon.com. The fact that the power switch is green (and lights up) was actually a coincidence, but it'll match the cabinet theme and T-Molding nicely.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346970;image)
Installed the batons. I used guide pieces (wood cut to the offset depth) to put the batons in.
You may notice that the left side has extra batons mounted horizontally along the middle and bottom. These batons (the longer parts) have a groove cut in them. What is the purpose of these?
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346972;image)
These rails allow me to install a plywood board with the jamma game mounted to it. Then, I just have to connect the jamma harness, and it's ready to play. No unscrewing a jamma board from the cabinet wall and screwing in a different game.
The mounting boards for the games I have are as long as the top rail. That slightly different color baton beyond the bottom rail is solid. The smaller plywood boards stop there and fit very nicely.
I did make some boards for future use that run the entire inside of the cabinet. I just cut out a notch in the lower part to avoid the solid baton. This allows for any games or systems that require a longer board to mount to.
I really like this rail idea. I already cut another set of rails for use in a future full-size cabinet (so I can use the same mounting system [and games] between my cabinets.)
Hopefully with this cabinet, I can expand my jamma board collection. I'd love to get a Ninja Baseball Batman, or Bubble Bobble (with a jamma adapter, of course).
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346974;image)
I finally started mounting the base and CRT mount. Used wood glue and screws (once the glue has some time to set). The CRT frame is securely screwed in by both the frame itself (from the outside), and again from batons secured on the sides right behind the mount. I want to make sure the CRT is going to stay in place.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346976;image)
Here it is, with both sides mounted. Finally, it's starting to look like a real cabinet!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346978;image)
Added some wooden square dowels (are these still called batons here?) across the top back and top forward. This should keep the sides at the same distance apart, from top to bottom, and make sure my panels can easily be cut to fit.
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Next to do is to figure out how to mount the other components, like the monitor chassis board. I'm going to try to mount it to the side wall of the cabinet if I can. My best bet is to bring the cabinet in, place the CRT in it, and figure it out from there. I also need to figure out where to put the electrical box (it was supposed to mount inside the right side upper back, on that vertical baton that doesn't exist on the left. However, the monitor frame blocks my from mounting the box there. I'll probably put it along the bottom somewhere.)
I've done a little bit of planning for the control panel, but nothing finalized.
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Cool project! Love your Jamma board slide.
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Finally time to update!
First off, thanks for the compliments everyone has posted! Progress has been really slow lately (it's been raining or on the edge of raining for the last week.)
After the last post, I noticed three problems: The cabinet wobbled (I could fix that later with leg levelers), the monitor was too far forward (requiring dissasembly), and I had sanded too much off the side I had repaired, making it noticeably thinner.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=347371;image)
Yeah, turned out the sandpaper I was using was 60 grit. Way too rough. So I had to decide what to do. If this was an original cabinet, I'd possibly try to thicken the wood up with Bondo or something. Try to preserve as much original cabinet as possible.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=347373;image)
In this case though, I decided to just make a new side and use the good parts of the old side for the control panel or something. Hey, I had to disassemble it to mount the monitor further back anyway. And I know this would end up bugging me now that I know about it, so might as well fix it now.
During the rebuild, I also fixed the wobbling problem.
The monitor bracket I moved way back. I realized I could use washers with the mounting bolts to move the monitor closer to the screen as needed. I also mounted it higher than before.
Another thing I corrected was the angle behind the top of the control panel. The Jakobud drawings didn't have the right angle (based on Szabo's Arcades Simpsons Arcade video 6. About 9 minutes in.) So I corrected this on the existing good side with Bondo. This was before I cut the replacement one.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=347375;image)
Again, weather has been bad, so no major cutting or anything. I did mount the bracket for the monitor chassis. I also couldn't help myself. I hooked my jamma board up and installed the CRT.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=347377;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=347379;image)
:notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
Now, there's no sound or controls, so I'm in no danger of "it's playable, I'll finish the cabinet...some day." But for now, I'm enjoying the attract mode. Hopefully weather will be good on my day off tomorrow, and I can continue working on it.
I have some issues with the monitor (getting it to center), so I'm going to post over in the monitor forum later after work. Forums are running too slow to do it now.
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Really liking the progress here, and commend you for going the real PCB route. :applaud:
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:applaud: Looking good
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Weather was...OK for most of the day. A few points of rain, but mosty clear.
To start the day, I first discharged the CRT, after leaving it off overnight. Then I had breakfast. Then another CRT discharge. Then ran to Home Depot and Walmart. Then one more CRT discharge. I wanted to make sure the tube is completely safe to remove. I never heard the "pop" sound. I'm guessing I have a newer monitor that self-discharges, but no sane person would trust their life to that.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=347401;image)
I installed a workbox for the electrical outlets. This monitor can plug directly in without an isolation transformer (the original bartop it came out was from Target or a warehouse club or something.)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=347403;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=347409;image)
I made and installed the supports for the monitor glass. The bottom has a notch cut out for the retaining plate (which still needs to be made.) The top support has a blocker to keep the glass in place from the top.
(And yes, I mistakenly wrote "cathode" instead of "anode" on the monitor frame, to note which way to mount the frame and monitor (this was before the frame was installed. But I know what it means.)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=347405;image)
Here's the monitor glass, cut from plexiglass (seen here with the protective covering still in place). I'm betting someone out there is mortified at me using plexiglass for the monitor instead of real glass, but this is easier for me to work with at the moment. I can replace it with real glass in the future, once I can get it professionally made. But that's sometime after the cabinet is completed. I built it to accommodate up to 1/4 width glass. Seems like tinted glass is recommended. Any input on this?
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=347407;image)
I put some batons on the back of the coin door panel. One of them is used to keep the coin buttons straight and level. The other is just to mount the terminal block for the connections.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=347411;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=347413;image)
I trimmed down and installed the parts for the speaker and top vents (the ones I made a few weeks ago.) I had to move the top vents back further back than the original cabinet, due to the placement of the marquee lighting. The marquee lighting is the LED lighting system from GroovyGameGear.com. Placement of those lights requires placing them at least 6 inches away from the marquee.
That's it for today. Not sure if I can get much done tomorrow, as working on the cabinet all day on Mother's Day would not be in my best interests.
I picked up some Kydex from Amazon.com for the marquee retainers (as used by Vwalbridge, in the mini-Q*bert build (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,146091.0/all.html)). It was mentioned that a heat gun might be able to be used to bend the Kydex, so I might try that (I should have enough.) If that fails, I can score it like Vwalbridge did.
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Here's what I did this weekend:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=347629;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=347631;image)
Built a new panel for the power input, intake fan, and volume control (audio amp). Yeah, I know most arcade boards handle audio amp themselves, but I want to be ready for any that don't (like my Sega Naomi, or a MAME board.) Besides, in a home environment, an external volume control is desireable (in case I need to lower the volume in a hurry, without opening the cabinet or resetting and accessing the test menu.)
I bought fan grills to fit the cooling fan. I plan to paint it and install it.
This panel is built out of 1/2 inch mdf, and doubles as a baton for the back door (to keep it from falling into the machine.)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=347633;image)
Secured the remaining top panel and top back panel. It'll take some sanding and Bondo to make the top match. The hole on the back is for a button for future expansion.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=347635;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=347637;image)
I cut and made a back door, and test-fitted a lock. The lock secures perfectly to a square dowel in the cabinet I mounted before.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=347639;image)
I put in the CRT tube and boards (so I can connect the flyback board) and cut an opening in the door. Don't worry, everything is disconnected from power and discharged.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=347641;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=347643;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=347645;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=347651;image)
I built a "hump" on the back. I think it looks good. Some Bondo, sanding, and painting, and it'll look great.
I plan to put electrical tape on the screw heads on the inside, to keep from any accidental electrical shorting. Especially around the monitor (in case it gets bumped on back door install or removal.)
That ends the rough construction of the main cabinet. Still needs Bondo, sanding, and painting, but the rest of the "heavy duty" building should be the control panel.
Speaking of which...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=347647;image)
Cut some of the wood for it. I didn't cut the back end of the control panel top yet. I hope to use it to figure out the spacing and layout of the controls.
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Take note BYOAC'ers
Pics hosted at the forum? Check
Uniform theme that makes sense? Check
Doesn't try to do too many things? Check
CRT? Check
Original Hardware Support? Check
Lots of progress pictures? Check
Great job romshark, I'm really enjoying your build!
:applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
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Thank you harveybirdman :)
Progress has been slower than I'd like (due to work and weather), but I hope the cabinet is better for it. Besides, planning on how to do certain things (like how I plan to secure the control panel, or how to do the power /fan area) helps keep my mind occupied at work.
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Time for another update! Here's what I did this weekend.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=347798;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=347800;image)
These are the parts I cut last week. Before gluing or otherwise attaching any parts together, I carefully marked on the Control Panel part where the side walls attach. This way, I can figure out the boundaries of my controls. I marked the location of the walls from the outside on the bottom of the control panel, and marked an inside line based on the wall thickness (3/4 on the sides, 1/2 along the front.)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=347802;image)
Here's where I marked the control panel for the holes to drill. Note that this is the BOTTOM of the panel, so the controls will be normal in the finished version (joystick on the left, buttons on the right.)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=347804;image)
I drilled pilot holes, then went at it with my handy button-drill-bit (a 1 1/8 inch wood bit). Best practice is to go partway with the big drill bit for a bunch of holes, flip the panel over, and finish the holes from the other side. Makes a nice, clean hole. I did that...after the first few holes.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=347806;image)
Here's how I plan to secure the control panel to the cabinet. Remember, I have no coin door to reach through, and I don't want to go in from the back, getting past the monitor neck and boards.
The bottom of the whole control panel assembly will secure to the cabinet with toggle bolts. The control panel surface, front wall, side walls, and smaller rear walls will be secured together. This whole upper assembly will be held to the bottom plate by black socket cap screws (they go in flush, and takes a hex-wrench [Allen-wrench]).
Seen here are the insert nuts on the bottom of the side walls. These are what the cap screws secure into. Also the reason I went with 3/4 inch MDF for the sides.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=347808;image)
Button and joystick holes cut out of the plexiglass, and partially trimmed from the sides. You may notice, on the left, are two old arcade buttons. These are just in there to keep everything lined up while routing. I don't want everything shifting.
Using a router made things a metric ton easier than my first cabinet. This time, I had flush trim bits, and a 45 degree bit with guide bearing. I first used a regular small bit to make a decent-sized opening for the buttons and joysticks, then the flush trim bit to make the hole match the button opening perfectly. I worked on one hole completely, secure a button in it, and then start on one in another part of the board. Of course, I also had the plexi clamped to the board with multiple clamps.
The sides I trimmed with the 45 degree bit. Gives it a nice angled surface.
My first cabinet, I used a moto-tool with grinding wheel. The router was 100% better.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=347810;image)
Here is the plexi all done (still has the protective film on it, in case it looks all marked up in the picture.) I purposefully offset it from the panel for the picture, so the holes can be seen easier.
But wait, some of you may be saying. Isn't your control panel supposed to have 3 buttons per player? Don't you have an X-Men jamma board (which is a 3 button game)? Well, there's a reason for that.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=347812;image)
I'm making two controllers at the same time. Both are the same dimensions, and the side and front walls have already been created too. I even made a second bottom to house the unused panel, with the holes drilled in the same spots for the socket cap screws. The unused panel can then be used with any of my other arcade equipment. It also is easier to make the 2nd panel at the same time, rather than down the road.
(No, I'm not going to make a 4-player control panel).
So how can I connect the controller up? Well, a long time ago (before my first cabinet), I devised a common connector system for my stuff. Using 15-pin D-Sub connectors (like this one (https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_15052_-1)) I can connect a joystick, 7 buttons, start, coin, and ground. The leftover pin is used for admin stuff (player 1 connector is Test, player 2 is Service.) My cabinet uses it. My external Naomi setup uses it. My external WinPac, Supergun, my standalone arcade controllers, all conform to this standard. Half-Shell will be no different.
So yeah, a 6-player swappable panel and some talk of putting a pc on a jamma slider board may seem to be straying from the "authentic" aspect. But don't worry. Half-shell is a jamma cab first. And when I show my friends, it'll always start off as a 2-button, TMNT jamma board machine.
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On my list of tasks for the cabinet is assembling the control panel units. That is, secure the sides, front, and rear parts to the control panel surface. As you can see from the last picture, I have the panel clamped together as the wood glue dries, securing the sides to that panel. This is the perfect task for the work week, as it gives the glue plenty of time to cure.
Next part to do is...test the monitor bezel. I never checked to see if it needs to be trimmed, or if I have to add another panel right above and below it.
Also, I need to build the switching panel. Nothing fancy, just some switches to control the marquee light, coin buttons light and functionality, and some of the controller stuff.
After that, I can finally start prepping the cabinet for paint. Which means Bondo. Lots of Bondo. There are holes on both sides, on the control panel (the holes around the joysticks are for screws that will be covered up. I'm not doing exposed carriage bolts.) Even the "coin door" panel is a little short and will need some Bondo to square off the bottom.
It's almost time to order the artwork from GameOnGrafix. Planning on going with replicas of the original cabinet artwork.
A few month ago, BYOAC member dheck offered to share with me his original file to make my own layout. (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,149743.msg1563609.html#msg1563609) I wish I would have gotten the file, as his is a more complete version of the panel (GameOnGrafix version is only the buildings, dheck included the streets too. I could have also shrunk the logo down to keep buttons from overlapping it (although, based on my measurements, it shouldn't happen with the GameOnGrafix version anyway, even with the 6 button panel.) I messaged dheck asking for the file, but he hasn't been on since early April. I'll hold off a bit more before ordering, hoping he can get back to me.
One final thing: I'm making a copy of this thread and all the replies, in case the BYOAC server issue requires a complete data wipe. Probably won't, but it's just in case.
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Nice work so far. Tmnt was the west arcade I ever played.
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It's been a while since I updated. Between work, computer problems, and the weather, I didn't work much on the cabinet itself prior to today. I managed to get out there today, though.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348257;image)
Here's the cabinet with control panel, monitor, bezel, and monitor glass test-fitted. I figured out to mount the monitor so it was close, but didn't touch the monitor glass. Then, I figured out where the bezel will sit, and mounted small peices of wood to hold it. Even though the glass and CRT will keep the bezel in place, the wood will keep it evenly spaced in on both sides.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348259;image)
I started filling my millions of holes with Bondo. Here's the one side, sanded with course sandpaper. You can also see some of the bezel holders here.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348261;image)
Also used some Bondo to level off the bottom of the "coin door" panel. Took a few Bondo sessions to build it up enough to be even (let one layer dry, then add to it).
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348263;image)
Both control panels have been Bondo-ed to cover the joystick mounting screws and other unwanted visible holes. (Coarse sanding also done in this pic.)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348265;image)
Here's the cabinet after fine sanding. I still have to wipe it down, but I might be able to start painting soon.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348267;image)
Both control panels, the control panel bottoms, and the back panel are also fine sanded, ready for wiping and painting. Unless I find something I need to fix.
Still no word from dheck, so I'm going to just go with the unmarked TMNT panel at GameOnGrafix. In fact, I'm about to order the marquee and side art too (edit: ordered all the artwork while waiting for the forums to be usable). I also picked up some paint already (Behr black semigloss primer+paint indoor. Primer+paint seems to be all Home Depot has.)
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Can't wait to see it with some art applied.
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I've been working on the cabinet every day this week, but couldn't post because of the forum hard drive issue (of course, it was working a few times when I checked from work on my phone, but I can't do these large updates from my phone). So, here's the update:
Monday
I forgot about the T-Molding. Figured out how much I need, and ordered it (T-Molding.com. 40 feet of green 1/2 inch size.)
Sanded the cabinet. Used coarse, then medium, then fine sandpaper. I used a power sander, and also did it by hand in the corners that the power sander couldn't reach.
Next, I gave it a wipe-down with a damp rag to remove the sawdust. Not too wet, since there's a lot of water-sensitive MDF here.
I put protective tape over the T-Molding groove. I later realized I probably don't need it, since my paint is primer-paint combined. I didn't use it on the T-Molding groove on my control panels, as the tape is wider than the wood, cutting it is annoying, and it was just falling off anyway.
Finally, I gave the cabinet it's first coat of paint.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348390;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348392;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348394;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348400;image)
Remember, that's just the first coat of paint. Bondo patches are visible. Hopefully they'll disappear with more paint and sanding.
Tuesday
Added another coat of paint.
Wednesday
Sanded the paint using medium sandpaper.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348398;image)
After that, I patched some areas up with Bondo that need it. Let it dry, and sanded the patched areas down.
Then, I wiped the parts with a damp cloth again, and painted. The areas I didn't need to recently patch look a lot better now, so the older Bondo holes are fading away. I'm sure the patched areas will look nice too after more painting and sanding.
Thursday
Did some sanding, and painting. Had some lunch, and added another coat of paint.
Received my T-Molding, and got the email that my artwork has shipped.
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So that gets everyone up to speed on what I'm doing. Just patching, sanding, wiping, painting. I probably won't post much more about this until the final coat of paint, since it's the same thing.
I'm trying to work on it everyday, since it needs time to dry between coats. So I can just go to work while it dries. We've also had good temperatures (mid 70's to lower 80's Fahrenheit), but it's supposed to go to the mid-90's on the weekend.
I still have some flat black paint from my other cabinet. I'm thinking of using it on the sides and control panel top (so I don't just throw it away), since those will be covered by artwork. Visible parts will remain semi-gloss.
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Can't wait to see it with some art applied.
Same here! GameOnGrafix just shipped my art today. I won't be ready to install it when it arrives though. Once the cabinet has it's final coat of paint, I'm going to let it dry a couple days in the garage, then bring it in for a few days to finish curing (the AC should help it). I had a problem on my big cabinet with the CP artwork bubbling (not at the T-Molding, like others have posted, but all through it.) I don't know if it was because the paint was still giving off gas (I let it dry a day or two after the final coat of paint), or if it's due to my rushed painting (I never sanded between coats or anything.) So this time, I want to look right.
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Still painting and sanding. I think I'm happy with most of the parts now, but I want to give some more attention to the cabinet itself, and the control panels.
However, the big news is that I received the artwork from GameOnGrafix. And it looks gorgeous.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348496;image)
However, there is one (or rather, two) issues with the artwork:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348498;image)
The control panels are the "full artwork" version. Characters, button labels, "how to play." The ones I ordered are the no characters version. (http://www.gameongrafix.com/control-panels--239/teenage-mutant-ninja-turtles-4player-no-characters-) I did check my order history to make sure I ordered the right one (wouldn't be the first time the mistake was on my end), but I did order the right one. Though the two versions are so similar, I can understand the mix-up.
I put a support ticket in, so they should get back to me by Monday or so (not sure if they operate on the weekend). Since I'm still painting, and want to give the cabinet a week to "breath" before putting any artwork on, I'm not in any real hurry.
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It's an update!
Over the last week, I worked a bit on the electronics part. No pics of that stuff.
I contacted Scott at GameOnGrafix last week about the wrong control panel overlays. He promptly sent out corrected ones. Superb service, and still arrived before I had planned on doing any of the art installation. :)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348705;image)
Here's the cabinet (at least the parts that get the artwork), all painted and ready. I brought them in on Tuesday, and let them finish drying out in the air conditioned house. As mentioned before, I had a problem with major bubbles in my control panel artwork on my first cabinet. I wanted to give this enough time to let the gases and stuff out of the paint. So they sat inside for five days.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348707;image)
Here's the first side, with the artwork applied (before trimming.) I had help lining it up and holding it in place while I pressed the other side. It helps that I used to be a manager at a Taco Bell for 9 years, and did the POP (Point of Purchase: the menu board, big decals on the windows, and other sales stuff) almost all the time. So that "big decals on the windows" part really helps here. I even used the same tool to smooth out the bubbles (a stiff plastic spatula-like tool).
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348709;image)
Trimmed this side with an Exacto knife I picked up from Walmart.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348711;image)
Here's the other side, also trimmed up.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348713;image)
Here's the (correct) control panel artwork, applied to the two control panels.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348715;image)
And here they are, with the sides trimmed and holes for the controls opened up. I'm happy that the "Start" buttons and other controls don't cover the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles logo.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348717;image)
Added the T-Molding. Also put the control panel base and 2-button panel in place for this photo. Even without the monitor, controls, marquee, and what-not, I think that looks pretty darn close to the original machine. Someone could probably mistake it for a full-sized cabinet from just a picture.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348719;image)
My 6-button panel, also with T-Molding added.
--------------------------
So, what is left to do? Plenty, actually:
-Wire up the cabinet. This includes the power switch, speaker, amplifier, JAMMA harness, coin-up buttons, and more.
-Wire up the control panels. They'll use the same connector standard as my other arcade stuff. I know I mentioned it in a previous post, so look up there for more info.
-The marqeee. I have the artwork, but I need to make the retainer brackets. I'll try bending Kydex sheets with a hairdryer first. If that fails, I'll just make them the same way as vwalbridge did in his Mini Q*Bert build.
-Monitor glass retainer. I plan to use a metal plate that I got with a small Radio Shack project box back in the day. Some drilling, and some time on my anvil (to bend to a 90 degree angle) should create a nice retainer.
-Get the monitor adjusted. As noted a month or so ago, I have issues getting the monitor to center, despite what I do to the monitor adjustments. I'll probably have to poll the monitor forum gurus for assistance with that.
-More stuff that I'm probably forgetting.
As much fun as this is, I'm glad I'm almost done. Starting July, we're going to be working 6 days a week. For how long is anyone's guess.
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Love this build. The thing I like the most is that I was reading through it thinking "this is a scratch build, it's gonna be another chinese board or a mame cabinet", and wham you start putting original arcade board (although you do mention attract mode, which puzzled me as this is usually something you get on multiboards or mame) in it and authentic arcade parts. You don't see so many scratch builds with arcade boards in them, because usually people have hundreds of games they want to play when they start these things out. It impressed me even more when I realised you were fitting multiple control panels, confused as to why, but still impressed that you'd gone to that effort.
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:woot
Looking great romshark!
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Thanks for the kind words, guys!
(although you do mention attract mode, which puzzled me as this is usually something you get on multiboards or mame)
I've actually never seen or (knowingly) used a Chinese arcade multiboard, so I don't know what the attract mode looks like. To me, attract mode is the sequence the game displays while waiting for someone to play: intro, title, game demo, high scores. I was usually unsuccessful in getting any quarters from my parents to play arcade games as a kid, so the attract mode makes up most of my memories (although, to be fair, I did have a lot of video game systems and games at home. My Dad even surprised us with the NES version of TMNT Arcade on day, which was not a cheap game on release. Believe me, we played the heck out of it over the years). In fact, I really liked the Street Fighter 2 machines' attract mode I saw as a kid, but I don't think I ever played it until MAME came out.
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I've got a 13" CRT and a Simpsons PCB laying around... this gives me ideas... hmm
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I've got a 13" CRT and a Simpsons PCB laying around... this gives me ideas... hmm
Doooooooo it.
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I've got a 13" CRT and a Simpsons PCB laying around... this gives me ideas... hmm
If you do this, make sure to plan your controls out. Even fitting 2 players was a concern. Also make sure you can fit in the power supply, pcb, and other stuff. Although if your cab is similar in size to mine, it shouldn't be a problem.
To figure out cabinet scale, compare the original WG K7000 monitor dimensions (here (http://www.wellsgardner.com/pdf/Spec/K7000.pdf) (the 25V monitor) to your 13" monitor. That should give you the scale you need. Like mine, you may have the back of the tube stick out further than the cab, and need to build a "hump" on the back door.
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This is one of my favorite builds on here lately. Lots of attention to details that others would skip and top notch results :)
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Like mine, you may have the back of the tube stick out further than the cab, and need to build a "hump" on the back door.
Which is not unheard of in the arcade world. The Pac-Man cabaret has a molded plastic bubble on the back for the same reason.
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Still working on the cabinet, but decided to post my current activity.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348970;image)
Mounted the plexiglass, joysticks, and buttons to the panels. They're not wired yet (the microswitches aren't even installed).
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348974;image)
Similar to vwalbridge's Mini QBert build, (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,146091.msg1535888.html#msg1535888) I cut some Kydex strips. Although I found out that the sheets are smaller than I need. So, I tried to merge two pieces together. I taped them together on the inside, and used Bondo to even up the gap from the outside.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348972;image)
I also filled the retainer flap gap with Bondo to hold it's shape.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348976;image)
Took the marquee holders and sanded off the excess Bondo. I also carefully used my Dremel to even up the holders to look like one continuous peice.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348978;image)
Spray-painted the marquee retainers, as well as the marquee screws, fan bolts, fan grill, and power switch screws.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348980;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348982;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348984;image)
Took the metal plate from a Radio-Shack project box (I use the plastic lid when I use the box anyway). Bent it to a 90 degree angle in a vice, and drilled a hole. This will be my monitor glass retainer.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348986;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=348988;image)
Here are my Jamma boards mounted on the slide boards. Just slide them in, connect the Jamma harness, and play. I printed some title screens and screenshots on my photo printer, cut them out, and glued them to the board.
In addition, I mounted a Sega Naomi to another slider board. When I'm done with that, I'm going to use it to wire the cabinet. There are two reasons for this:
*The Naomi can use either a 15Khz or 31KHz monitor. In fact, the connector on the Naomi is a standard VGA port. So, I can hook up a normal PC monitor to check my controls wiring (the cabinet is a bit small to wire with the monitor installed and powered up. I want to take the safe route).
*Naomi is the only system I have that can test all 7 action buttons per player (even though the max buttons any of my games actually use is 6). While neither Half-Shell panel has a 7th button, I plan to wire my connectors for full compatibility with my other controllers.
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So that's where I am right now. After the Naomi board is done, I'm going to start wiring up the cabinet (while I have the first two live-action Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle movies playing in my DVD player). First the power socket / switch part, then the controls, then the other cabinet stuff. The control panels will be last, and may be another time.
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Cool idea on the board labels, how are you going to switch games? open it up and change? If you need them the fully loaded extender harnesses from Twisted Quarter are great!
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Yep, just open the back panel, unplug the jamma connector, slide the board out, put the new game in, connect up the jamma connector, and power on. Pretty simple.
I won't need a jamma extension for these (although I do have one, in case I need to test some board without putting it in the cabinet.)
So far, I wired up all the controller connectors, as well as the front coin buttons. Unfortunately, I somehow blew the bulbs in the coin buttons. Not sure how, as the bulvs should have been 5 volts (I'll measure later to make sure I've got the right voltage running to them.) Taking them apart, they're just jumbo White LEDs, so they should be easy to replace. I might look into a resistor to put in line with them.
Next parts to wire are to the audio system and monitor board. Getting closer to the end!
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Just to note: these buttons are the Groovygamegear.com NovaGem coin buttons, and they did work OK when I tested them with my Jamma power supply when I got them. Dunno if I have something wired wrong, or if my Naomi PSU is too powerful, or if I hooked the lights up backwards. But I blew both LEDs (one even cracked in half.) So it's gotta be something on my end.
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Shoot Randy a msg, he might have some advice.
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I might, but I want to check my connections first. Maybe try some spare LEDs I have.
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Dunno if I have something wired wrong, or if my Naomi PSU is too powerful, or if I hooked the lights up backwards. But I blew both LEDs (one even cracked in half.) So it's gotta be something on my end.
If the LEDs lit up, they weren't wired backward. (reverse-biased LEDs don't conduct)
Sounds like you hooked the LEDs to a too-high voltage. (over 5v)
Scott
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I looked at the NovaGemCDR page at GroovyGameGear.com, and found out what I did wrong:
Pre-Attached, extra-long 48" lighting wires with resistor termination.
Well, guess what part of the wire I cut off when I put them in my cabinet yesterday (to make the wiring look neater). I didn't even realize it had a resistor in it till I looked at one. :banghead:
I still have the wires, so I can use the original resistors with replacement LEDs. I put some red ones in for now, but they're nowhere near bright enough. I'll have to buy some new ones. I'll wait till after the monitor is installed, in case fixing the position issue involves buying new potentiometers or something (the electronics store [Cain Electronics in Norfolk if you're in Southeast Virginia] is about an hour's drive away) [edit: or the LEDs on his site, along with maybe a few other goodies).
I'll PM Randy to ask for information about what LEDs to get.
Thanks to everyone for their input on LED stuff. I'm glad I got it figured out (and really glad I burned out just the LEDs. Way cheaper than the game PCBs or monitor boards, even if I have to buy all new switches.
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Got in touch with RandyT. He's going to sell me replacement LEDs at $2.50 each. So I ordered 4 of them, along with some other goodies from his store. I still need to remove the current wiring and put the resistors back in series.
Currently working on other parts of the cabinet wiring. Got the marquee lights installed. I'll upload the pics of my current work in a day or so.
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Randy's a good guy, glad you got it figured out.
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I'll update more in the future (I gotta go to work now), hopefully tomorrow or Saturday. For now, here's a pic of the cabinet's current status:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=349101;image)
Mostly working, still some stuff to tweak. Big thing right now is lack of audio from my TMNT board. I am getting sound from my Turtles in Time, and from my Naomi. I'll test my TMNT board with my Supergun after work.
Still gotta do the controllers themselves too.
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I don't know if it needs it but I learned a hard lesson about trying to "fix" audio on boards that simply needed the -5v hooked up.
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I don't know if it needs it but I learned a hard lesson about trying to "fix" audio on boards that simply needed the -5v hooked up.
Oops! Did you pop anything in the process before your "A Ha!" moment?
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I've got a genuine arcade power supply in there, - 5 volts hooked up and all.
Ive got some theories going in my head, but can't test them till I get home.
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I don't know if it needs it but I learned a hard lesson about trying to "fix" audio on boards that simply needed the -5v hooked up.
Oops! Did you pop anything in the process before your "A Ha!" moment?
Yep my Fighting Hawk PCB has dead audio now, caused by trying to re-cap to fix an issue that didn't really exist.
Anyways back on topic, romshark can you comfortably play this from a sitting position? What you using for game chairs?
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Anyways back on topic, romshark can you comfortably play this from a sitting position? What you using for game chairs?
For now, I'm testing and doing stuff just on my knees. Eventually, I'll probably get / build a small table to put it on. That's the reason I didn't put rolling castors on the bottom. Don't want it accidentally rolling off the table during heated play. I might look for leg-levelers (surprised I couldn't find any in Home Depot.)
-------------------------------------------------------------
Ok, so here's what I've been doing between work and sleep.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=349147;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=349149;image)
Wired up the power socket /switch to the electrical outlet inside. I tested the outlets with a wiring diagnostic tool, to make sure I hooked it up correctly. Two outlets, grounded and everything.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=349151;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=349153;image)
Here's the mess of wiring my control panel harnesses. The Sega Naomi is inside, hooked up to the Jamma harness. On the left, you'll see a monitor showing the input test for Marvel vs. Capcom 2, and the re-wired X-Arcade joystick.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=349155;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=349157;image)
This is the marquee: the NovaMatrix Linx 2 lighting system from GroovyGameGear. I wanted something I could power from the existing power supplies, instead of trying to plug in a 3rd item (when I only have 2 outlets, and I want to avoid adding multi-outlet units to my outlet.)
The NovaMatrix units have mounts for screws, but the sicky tape it comes with is really strong. I 'm not sure I can get them back off the board without breaking something.
The marque light board sits in the cabinet, mounted by a toggle bolt and wingnut.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=349159;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=349161;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=349163;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=349165;image)
The marquee and holders, installed. Last pic is it lit up. The light looks a bit white. Maybe I can add a yellowish paper behind the marquee to make it look more "normal," but nothing to worry about for now.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=349167;image)
The speaker. It's mounted on a smaller wooden board with screws (with the protruding ends of the screws cut off and ground flat with a moto-tool). That whole assembly is glued in place in the marquee box.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=349173;image)
Here's the wiring in the cabinet, before the CRT is put in. Zip-ties and sticky holders keep the wiring in place. I hope to tidy it up a bit more in the future.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=349171;image)
Decided to add a pic of my internal switch board. I have pushbuttons for test, tilt, and service. There are also a bunch of toggle switches:
*Marquee switch. Turns it on and off.
*Coin button switch. In the down position, the buttons are lit, and act as regular coin-up buttons. In the up position, the lights are out, and the buttons act as service and test.
*Power selector. Chooses between the Jamma power supply, and another connector to a different system (such as the Naomi, which has it's own dedicated power supply.)
*Button 4 switch. Switches the button 4 input between the Jamma harness and the EXT harness (that connects to a kick harness or similar.)
*Button 5 switch. Similar to the button 4 switch. My Naomi JVS-Jamma adapter uses button 5 from the Jamma edge connector. I did this to handle any games / systems that use this oddball standard.
The board also has a coin meter, so I can keep track of my plays if I want to.
It's a odd shape, bacause I had to build it to fit in the available space. I plan to build a similar one for a future full-size cabinet upgrade.
-------------------------------------------------------------
Audio
Ok, so I posted before that TMNT1 had no sound, but everything else did. That's because the amplifier (from a cheap USB speaker from Amazon.com) ties the -line in and -line out to ground. The power for the amp comes from a 5 volt tap on the video chassis board (since it used to have a jamma connector on it, but only had 5-volts for the included PCB. No -5 or 12 volt).
Turtles in Time ties the -Speaker connector (solder side of the PCB) to ground, just like the amp board. Perhaps this is needed on stereo systems to keep both speakers in phase? Anyway, this isn't the case on the (monaural) TMNT1 board. Normally, these are directly connected to the speaker(s), so ground is irrelevent. Not so much when I have an amp that does kinda connect back to the same ground on the PCB.
So the fix? For now, I disconnected the -line in wire, and it works. So do the other boards. I might take my Radio Shack project kit, and try to use the audio transformer to isolate the PCB from the amplifier to see if that makes a difference.
-------------------------------------------------------------
While typing this, got the replacement bulbs (for the Coin buttons) from GrooyGameGear, as well as some other stuff (like some leaf-switch buttons to mess with.) I already wired the resistors (about 22 ohms each, I measured) back in, so I should have the lights working in no time.
Gotta go to work again, but this is the last time for a while (we're closed all next week). So I hope to get stuff done before I have to go back, since when we start again, we're on 6-day work weeks for a while.
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I don't know if it needs it but I learned a hard lesson about trying to "fix" audio on boards that simply needed the -5v hooked up.
A buddy of mine learned a similar lesson with Rastan (board doesn't even work without it)
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Very ambitious project that has turned out really well done! Gratz on your progress.
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Everything was going great. Still testing a few things, but I was so close to calling this complete, and uploading the finished build pics.
Then, I screwed up. Big time.
I put a game board in to test, and went to stand back up. When I did, I hit the neck board with my hip. This resulted in...a broken CRT neck.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=349324;image)
:badmood: :angry: :banghead: :censored:
After a short break to calm down, I went back to look (and yes, I made sure the cabinet was off and unplugged before leaving for the break). Yup, it's broke wide open, with some of the pins broke off. The rest of it was still in the neck board.
Heartbroken, I looked on the Internet. As luck would have it, I came across a new exact replacement tube (37SX110Y22-DC05) at searspartsdirect.com of all places. I'm too far invested into this project to just quit, so I ordered it. Cost me about $105, and it won't be here till about July 19th.
So, that's where I am now. But don't worry. Half-Shell will be completed.
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Nooooooo! Oh, the humanity!
I've never broken a tube (knock on wood), but then again I've not really had much chance too. I can't imagine the anguish that would cause. :(
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Good luck with that website:
http://www.resellerratings.com/store/Sears_PartsDirect (http://www.resellerratings.com/store/Sears_PartsDirect)
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Good luck with that website:
http://www.resellerratings.com/store/Sears_PartsDirect (http://www.resellerratings.com/store/Sears_PartsDirect)
....
I think I'm gonna need a drink tonight...
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Or 2
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Gotta watch those childbearing hips!
Those hips don't lie (about breaking CRT necks)!
Hey man, it ain't hip to break things...
ok I'll stop. :lol
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Such is the problem with working with a smaller cabinet. I had to sit down to work on some stuff, since everything is so close to the floor.
So, my plan is:
1. Pray SearParts actually works out for me.
2. If not, keep an eye out on eBay or similar for another tube, or maybe a whole Gameroom Classics bartop (if the price is low).
3. If that fails...Half-Shell will probably be switched to an LCD screen. Though I'll hang on to the other stuff, in case I find a CRT in the future.
I'll try to do research if other CRTs will work with this neckboard (13-pin) and will fit with my current mounting hardware.
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Bummer. Here's hoping the shipping is far more expedient than the estimate predicts.
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I've been picking up complete 13" CRTs with chassis off eBay for ~$160 shipped...
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Ouch!!! :cry: Damn that is bad luck! Sadly, I can see myself doing this! Hope that this store will work out, because this labor of love deserves a CRT...
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The saddest sound in the world is the hiss of a necked monitor....
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I suppose even a 13-inch CRT is better than an LCD. I'd probably also have issues finding a 4:3 LCD to fit the exact same size screen anyway.
The issue that concerns me is mounting a different model CRT and chassis board. I think most CRTs are mounted to a shelf below it. My current CRT is front-mounted. So putting a shelf in would be a bit of a process, and would also interfere with the game board area. Lots to take into account here.
Getting the same tube would be the best, if I can get one. Gonna wait till I find out if SearsParts works out for me.
The saddest sound in the world is the hiss of a necked monitor....
Oddly enough, I didn't hear anything. Though I was distracted by the visual scene. Sounds like you've had some monitor necks break too.
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I suppose even a 13-inch CRT is better than an LCD. I'd probably also have issues finding a 4:3 LCD to fit the exact same size screen anyway.
The issue that concerns me is mounting a different model CRT and chassis board. I think most CRTs are mounted to a shelf below it. My current CRT is front-mounted. So putting a shelf in would be a bit of a process, and would also interfere with the game board area. Lots to take into account here.
Getting the same tube would be the best, if I can get one. Gonna wait till I find out if SearsParts works out for me.
The saddest sound in the world is the hiss of a necked monitor....
Oddly enough, I didn't hear anything. Though I was distracted by the visual scene. Sounds like you've had some monitor necks break too.
More than once, my friend.
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I suppose even a 13-inch CRT is better than an LCD.
QFT ;)
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Alright, it's been a while. Here's the update on this whole thing.
First, I have another CRT monitor on the way :). More info on that below.
So, when last I posted, I had ordered a new CRT tube from Searspartsdirect.com. It was also pointed out that the site has abysmal customer ratings.
The next day, my order status changed (and stayed like this for over a week):
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=349660;image)
Yeah, I don't think anyone is actually making CRTs. I was a bit hopeful that maybe Irico had some old units still on a pallet in a warehouse somewhere. If I'm really lucky, they'd send me the whole pallet, just to get rid of those tubes. Yeah, really wishful thinking.
Oh, and SearsPartsDirect had already charged my credit card, before they even knew if they could ship anything. :censored:.
The great Internet search continued. I checked selling posts on the forums (here, at KLOV, thought about joining neogeo.com to see their selling forums.). I checked Craigslist. I checked eBay. I would check multiple times a day. Trying to find either the tube, or the whole GameRoom Classics bartop arcade it originated from. "Arcade", "CRT", "Gameroom Classics", "Taito Classics", "SNK Classics". Tried multiple search terms.
It was decided that I'll probably need a whole new CRT system, chassis board and all.
There's a 14" Wells Gardner that I was eying on eBay. (http://www.ebay.com/itm/WELLS-GARDNER-WGM-1430-14-VGA-CHASSIS-CRT-MONITOR-/331884765359?hash=item4d45dfa0af:g:H-AAAOSwIzNXPSiM) I looked at it for days. Until I realized it said "VGA". So the hunt continued.
I took a close look at some 13K7203 Wells Gardner monitors, for sale by KLOV user 87 t-66. (http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=380139). These are NOS, still in the packaging, and only turned on to make sure they work.
Looking at the specs on the Wells Gardner website, (http://www.wellsgardner.com/pdf/Spec/K7200_19.pdf) and measuring my broken CRT, it's a darn near perfect fit (maybe a few modifications. This tube may actually be a half inch wider, based on the front mounting tabs). So, I joined KLOV forums and bought the monitor. 87 t-66 has been helpful in just not selling me the CRT, but letting me know what type of connectors I need for power and signal, and a possible issue when mounting into a k7000 frame (which I'm not using a frame, but still, good to know.) And both 87 t-66 and Wells Gardner state that this system does
not require an isolation transformer.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=349658;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=349656;image)
(Images from 87 t-66s selling post over on KLOV. I haven't received the new CRT yet.)
So this new tube is the same, or maybe slightly larger than my old one. Does this mean my old tube was really a 13", not a 14"? I may do some actual comparisons before installing the new unit, before I get rid of the broken one.
(Oh, and I have the broken neck wrapped in a few layers of masking tape, to prevent cutting myself or pieces of glass from falling out.)
So my new tube is set to arrive Tuesday. I already picked up the connectors, so I can test the monitor. Any actual installation into Half-Shell will probably have to wait till at least Sunday, though, due to work.
Oh, and what of the Sears order?
I talked to and bought the WG monitor from 87 t-66 on Thursday (mostly communicating on my breaks at work.) Friday morning, Sears emailed me saying "The item(s) for order W726117 is(are) discontinued." (Yeah, I know many of you are shocked by this.) They also stated that they'll refund my credit card. So...at least I didn't have to file a credit card dispute or anything messy like that.
The old chassis board will be removed from Half-Shell and put in storage. I'll document how everything is hooked up. I won't be searching nearly as much for a replacement tube, but I'll keep an eye out. If I can get another tube for it, maybe I could use it in another build (*Cough* MsPacmanCocktailTable *Cough*).
And to prevent damaging my new tube once it's in (since it sticks out about the same as the old one), I'll make use of my Jamma extension cable when testing different boards and systems. That way, I won't even have to mess with the back of the cabinet (and keeps me away from the CRT).
My plan of attack:
*remove the old chassis board
*route new power lines for the sound amp (the old one used the +5V line on the old chassis board. I doubt the WG board has a 5V port I can safely tap into.)
*carefully discharge the new CRT, document and take pictures of how the chassis and tube connect to each other.
*test-fit CRT tube in Half-Shell, and modify the cabinet as needed.
*See if I can put a small shelf inside, right under the control panel, to mount the chassis control PCB (where the size and postition controls are).
*Hope my old bezel still fits. If not, find a repacement, or make my own. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sxkFCE-pC20)
*Mount chassis board, hook everything up.
*Test everything.
*Have the Turtles save April and defeat Shredder.
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Glad you were able to find a replacement. I was so hoping the CRT wasn't the death of this project.
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Yay CRT for the win!
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Got the new monitor today and tested it.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=349828;image)
(There's a protective plastic on the front of the tube.)
I had to do a yoke flip (the image was reversed left to right. Maybe it was intended for a mirror cab?), but the monitor works great! Actually, I haven't adjusted a single pot (only the connector to do that yoke flip), but the image already looks better than I could ever get that old Gameroom Classics CRT.
Installation into Half-Shell pending, as I still plan to do it the way I posted before.
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Here's the last in-progress update post. The cabinet is done after this!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=349999;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=350001;image)
Created a wood board to mount the new chassis to. This board also has a terminal block for the monitor signal (layed out in the same way as the connector itself. That's why the syncs are all seperate, and there's a "key" slot.) The board was then wood glued and screwed to the cabinet, where the old chassis board was removed from.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=349997;image)
Removed the old Gameroom Classics monitor chassis board. Had to reroute new power lines for the sound amp board (it originally got power from the chassis board, but there's no place for me to tap into power on the new one (there probably is, but I don't feel like poking around a monitor chassis board.) The terminal block was also removed, as the new board has a terminal block on it. I'll put the old chassis board away for now.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=350003;image)
The old and new CRT tubes. They look like they're the same size.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=350009;image)
And...the new CRT fits! It fits perfectly snug between the wood "spacers" (the blocks against the tube on the left and right.) So I guess the old CRT was really a 13 inch tube.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=350005;image)
Here's the back of the CRT, all hooked up to the chassis board. The wires going to the neck board were just a bit too short, so I put spacers (made out of an old pen) on the chassis board bolts (glad I used long bolts). Now the wires run perfectly, and aren't too tight or anything. I tested a game with it, and the monitor works perfectly! Time to add the final bits.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=350017;image)
I mounted the monitor control board just under the control panel. Even with the control panel base plate installed, I can adjust the monitor easily just by removing the control panel top.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=350007;image)
Checked to make sure my back door hump doesn't hit the back of the CRT. No issues here. The monitor assembly doesn't seem to stick out as far as the other one, but it does a bit. So I still need the hump.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=350011;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=350013;image)
My existing monitor bezel fits nicely. Also put the monitor glass on (after cleaning it and the CRT with Windex), and installed the monitor glass retainer bracket.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=350015;image)
The control panel base attaches to the cabinet using bolts and wingnuts. The rest of the control panel secures to this base part using these flush-mounted hex head bolts.
Now that I have a 5-volt line running for the amp, I tried switching my intake fan to it. My fan is listed as 12-volt, but it runs noisy and pulls in a lot of air like this. By a lot, I mean when the monitor and back door are in place, air is coming out of the top vent. And around the monitor area. And the control panel seams. Just way too much air. Putting the fan at 5 volts still has air coming out the vent, but not trying to come out of every other opening. It's also a lot quieter.
---------------------------------------------------
So that concludes my build of Half-Shell, the 1/2 size Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles cabinet. The final product pics will be a separate post.
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Finished product pics! After 4 months of making this on my spare time, and a few disheartening setbacks, I finally finished it!
Two of these are from my Galaxy S7 Edge, since they came out nice.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=350035;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=350037;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=350039;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=350043;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=350041;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=350049;image)
Took some pics next to a chair, for size comparison. Just like Vwalbridge did on his finished mini-Qbert build. (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,146091.0/all.html)
The next two are the ones from my phone:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=350021;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=350019;image)
----------------------------------------------------------------
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=350033;image)
Back of the cabinet, without the back door.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=350045;image)
Back of the cabinet.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=350047;image)
Power input, switch, volume control, and intake fan.
---------------------------------
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=350023;image)
Played my TMNT board. First game I beat on this cabinet!
The other games I only played a level or two.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=350025;image)
Simpsons:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=350031;image)
X-Men:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=350027;image)
Marvel vs. Capcom 2 on my Sega Naomi.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=350029;image)
Guilty Gear XX. One of my favorite fighters in my Naomi collection.
---------------------------------
So that ends this build. There may be minor tweaks to do. Paint touch-ups and so on. I want to get a small table to put it on, to make it easier to play.
Thanks to all that looked and commented on this topic (and those that looked, but didn't comment, which I'm extremely guilty of doing in a lot of topics), and thanks to all the restoration and build posts (both here and other places) for showing me the finer details of this type of cabinet.
Commentors:
yotsuya
sealcouch
Slippyblade
Aceldamor
dmckean
harveybirdman
opt2not
DarthBS
ballboff
HaRuMaN
mourix
PL1
Waaaghinator
ppv
baritonomarchetto (in a separate post for get my monitor working, before I broke it.)
Also thanks to:
RandyT and Groovy Game Gear for controls, coin buttons, marquee lighting, a few more odd and ends, and selling me the LEDs I stupidly burned out. :cheers:
Scott and GameOnGrafix for the artwork.
dheck for uploading the edited control panel artwork to GameOnGrafix.
Home Depot for tons of wood, some paint, and a lot of screws and bolts.
87 t-66 on the KLOV forums for the beautiful monitor.
And others I'm probably forgetting.
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Love it! very cool.
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This rocks man! Great job! :cheers:
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Decent! :cheers:
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Turned out beautiful! Congrats! :applaud:
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Totally getting an nomination for this this year.
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TMNT is by far my favorite arcade game and planning to build a mini mame cabinet for my son... so this machine is amazing to me. Awesome work :notworthy:
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Hey OP, how did you decide on the multiplyer of .565? I wanna build a smaller Donkey Kong cabinet for my daughter, and am trying to figure out a good size. Thanks!
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Glad everyone is liking it. I've been busy with other stuff, and haven't had much time to actually play it.
Hey OP, how did you decide on the multiplyer of .565? I wanna build a smaller Donkey Kong cabinet for my daughter, and am trying to figure out a good size. Thanks!
I already had a CRT I planned to use, and measured it. I compared the numbers to the measurements I found online from an original TMNT cab CRT (Wells Gardner K7000), and found out the ratio. Maybe a bit overkill, but I wanted it to look right.
Donkey Kong is a very popular cabinet for people on these forums. Once you have a monitor chosen, I'm sure lots of people can tell you what scale cab would be best.
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Everybody thought the project was over. Actually, it was. However, it was too low to the ground. Even when I had some friends over, they could only play for so long. So, I built a stand for it (before the weather gets too cold for the year).
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=353576;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=353578;image)
The stand is constructed of 3/4 MDF wood. Some people avoid this wood because it’s heavy, but I wanted the weight to keep the unit from being top-heavy during aggressive play.
I also built it to hold some of my game boards when not in use (the boards still have to be put in the main cabinet to be played. No cables run to the storage area).
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=353574;image)
This makes it a much better height to play. Also, it’ll be harder to accidentally hit the CRT tube when working on the cabinet again...
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So, here’s some build pics:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=353558;image)
Cut the base out.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=353560;image)
Attached some rolling coaster wheels. Two of these have brake levers on them, to lock the cabinet in place. Although unlocked, the whole cabinet doesn’t accidentally move anyway.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=353562;image)
Square dowel rods provide shelves for my game boards.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=353564;image)
Sides and top installed. The bottom has enough space to hold a larger system, like my Naomi setup.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=353566;image)
The back, with the door test-fitted.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=353568;image)
Making sure the game boards fit. Had to sand down the wood boards a fit for smooth insertion and removal.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=353570;image)
During the painting process.
Not pictured: putting some 3/4 black T-Molding on.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=353572;image)
The cabinet is secured with 3 long bolts and wing-nuts. The cabinet can be separated if need-be, but it’s easier to move around like this (there are no wheels on the cabinet itself.)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=353580;image)
Half-Shell, when compared to my older “full-size” cabinet.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=353582;image)
Me with the cabinets, in case my friends happen across this post.
----------------------------------------------------
So with this, I think I’m really done. Except for getting more game boards. Happy gaming!
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Nice stand, much more functional! I'd like to build something like this for my bartop so it can double as a cabaret. Did you consider continuing the t-molding stripes down the front to make it look more continuous?
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Did you have a hard time using that art and marquee? That's just the worst April.
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People ordinarily smile in photos.
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Nice stand, much more functional! I'd like to build something like this for my bartop so it can double as a cabaret. Did you consider continuing the t-molding stripes down the front to make it look more continuous?
Thought about it, but the base uses ¾ wood, and the cabinet is ½. Didn’t have any ¾ green T-Molding, so just used some black I had. Also, black is good in case I ever get to build another mini-cabinet (without worrying if the colors will match.)
If you design the bartop and base together, I think they’d look better as a matching set.
Did you have a hard time using that art and marquee? That's just the worst April.
Not really. Part of the nostalgia for me, I guess. Maybe just pretend she’s cosplaying as the one from the early live-action films?
Also, this art is much better than the Turtles in Time version, in my opinion.
People ordinarily smile in photos.
Believe it or not, I was trying to smile (although it didn't look like it, I agree). Took a bunch of photos trying to get it to show. I guess my smile just doesn’t show up well. Or years of working fast-food have killed my ability to display happiness.
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I don't think Romshark was looking for anyone to critique his smile here. That comment should be deleted by a mod, or better yet, PBJ should delete it himself. Shameful. Everyone's smile is unique.
Romshark, You are too kind trying to explain yourself here. You should just ignore BS comments like that. I loved this TMNT build. My first build was a bartop that was way too big to be a bartop and I ended up having to build a stand for it. I like how you gave yours a dual purpose and use it for board storage too. Also, my thought on the artwork is it's the same as the arcade version so why wouldn't you use it for this scaled down replica? ::) Good job on this all around.
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So my Half-Shell cabinet has been pretty good for the last few years. No issues with it working since the construction of the riser base. I’ve collected a few more Jamma circuit boards since then. It did take a few scratches from a small drone (those marks in the upper right of the panel with the coin-up buttons.) Some of the side art is not in the best of shape (some rips and bubbles). Still, it’s performed solidly.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381003;image)
As a side note: Arcade 1-Up recently released their own reproduction of the cabinet of roughly the same size. Now, their version has some similarities to mine (green T-molding, includes a riser base.) I did play it a few times at Walmart (they have a unit set up to try out) and it’s…Ok. It would be uncomfortable to fit myself and three other friends around it. It uses an LCD panel (understandable, since CRTs are not made anymore. That’s just how it goes, especially when marketed to the “not-hardcore arcade crowd.”) Still, I like my cabinet a lot better. Interchangeable games, and it’s the correct shape with lit marquee ;) (yes, I know there’s mods for lit marquees for the Arcade-1Up machines.)
Anywho, the point of this post is to chronicle the recent upgrades to my cabinet. The NovagemCDR buttons are great (after I learned not to stupidly cut the resistors off the wires and literally blow up the LED bulbs), but I missed having a real coin door. Not only for the ability to use real quarters, but to allow easier access to the “maintenance” controls (the SERVICE and TEST buttons, among others). I at one point had the cabinet in an area that made it an annoyance to pull it away from the wall to open the back panel to do all that stuff.
I knew I would need a smaller coin door than normal. My normal over-under style (which I have a spare) was definitely too big. I’ve been poking around every once in a while for anything that would work. In the beginning of December 2019, I came across the answer. Credit where it's due, it was partly due to people modding coin doors…into their Arcade 1-Up cabinets (the older ones, not the TMNT version.)
Those modders were using the X-Arcade coin doors. Basically the upper part with the coin slots, return slots, and includes the mechs. I took a few days checking the measurements, and even cut out a mock-up out of a used Amazon.com shipping envelope. I took into account the size of the entire door frame, and the size of just the opening I need to cut. Seeing as my job is closed between Christmas and New Year, and hopefully I’d have a few good days of weather to work on my cabinet, I ordered it.
At the same time, I found some replacement coin return buttons for it on eBay, but in green. They’d match the overall green color scheme nicely, so I ordered them too.
The door and buttons arrived fairly quickly. Looking at the door, I saw how X-Arcade did the lighting for the buttons. I knew it would be powered by a wall transformer (it’s designed for “normal” home use cabinets like their X-Arcade ones), but that transformer feeds two tiny circuit boards with red LEDs.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381004;image)
I didn’t feel red LEDs would work well with green return buttons, so I looked to light them up in another way. The door is the Happ style, so I decided to use the normal Happ solution. I tried ordering the normal 12-volt socket and LED coin door bulbs from suzohapp.com, but found they have an order minimum of $50 (which seems lower than listed in some previous posts I’ve seen here, but still too much for me.)
More searching, and I found the parts I needed at bestsonparts.com . Got the parts I needed. Shipping was kinda high ($10), but I got the lights and sockets in a few days.
I switched out the return buttons with the green ones. Here, I’m lighting it up with a flashlight for testing.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381005;image)
The day before I planned to start the mods, I received my latest Jamma game: Ninja Baseball Bat Man. I tried it out for a bit to make sure it worked, then set it aside to start gutting my cabinet. Taking some pictures and documenting how things were connected, I took nearly everything out.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381006;image)
That next day (Sunday, December 29) had unseasonably warm weather, and I wanted to be ready for an early start to take full advantage of it. My objectives for the project:
*cut a hole for the coin door.
*create some sort of bin with lid for the quarters to fall into, but can be opened and emptied out when the coin door is unlocked and opened.
*install a panel behind the coin bin, for mounting the maintenance controls, coin counters, monitor controls, ect.
*Fun with lasers! More info to come.
*clean up and repaint front panel, as well as a few other exposed areas that need some attention.
Note: At the time of this writing, I’ve actually finished the cab upgrades. I was delayed from posting these updates by actually working on the cabinet, other mundane real life things (like screwing up my home server and spending 2 days reinstalling and restoring everything), and coming down with a cold that hit me really hard. I don’t get sick very often, but this one cost me a lot of downtime, visits to the doctor, and finding out the hard way that I’m “mildly” allergic to penicillin :'( .
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Very nice!
I really like the Xgaming arcade door. Quality piece - I need one more and they are sold out. I put one on my Gorf, which I built from an A1up and it appears to have your same height as your cabinet: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,161128.40.html It adds a lot to the overall aesthetics.
I never really was a cabaret cabinet fan, but having one near the same dimensions has shown me the value when space is an issue.
Good job on the cabinet. Nice update. Looks like you were building risers before risers were cool.
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Thanks! Yeah, I'm sure I'm not the first a riser for a cabinet like this, but definitely before Arcade 1Up did it.
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The date was Sunday, December 29, 2019. The day was warmer, but had on and off rain. So I worked in the garage, near the open door but out of the rain. I set a fan up, pointed at my work table, to blow the sawdust outside.
So first on my list was cutting the hole for the coin door. The front panel is made from 1/8 hardwood, so I knew I’d need to add another layer.
First, there were some square dowels I had glued inside to hold the Novagem buttons level and provide a mount for the wiring terminal blocks. It was just glued on, so I managed to rip them off using some channel locks.
In my leftover stash of wood from previous projects, I found the perfect piece. When added to the hardwood, the total thickness would be just right for the coin door. I cut a hole and fitted it for the coin door, then trimmed the sides and length to fit in the cabinet. The new board runs vertically the entire length of the inside front panel, and is secured by wood glue, and screws from the top (in the brace that the control panel attaches to) and bottom.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381037;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381038;image)
From the inside, I drilled some holes near the four corners to mark them, then used some old labels to further identify the holes. I then used a scroll saw to cut a rough hole out of the hardwood panel, and followed it up with my router and a flush-trim bit. This made the hole exactly the same as the new inner brace, and the coin door fit perfectly.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381039;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381043;image)
To figure out the cash box, I started with the lid (to make sure it would fit through the door).
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381040;image)
I measured how high the cash box side walls need to be, and marked where the slot for the lid would go. Then I temporarily screwed a square dowel a set distance above that line. The idea is that when I hold my router against the dowel while going across, it would cut a nice straight groove. This worked out great.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381041;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381042;image)
I then removed the dowel, cut off the excess wood a bit above the groove, and cut the boards into left and right halves. Putting the completed coin door is temporarily, I figured out how deep to make the coin box (so that the coin mechs wouldn’t hit the back panel with the coin counters and such) and cut the side walls to match those measurements. This was nice at first, but later I found I had cut too close to the groove, and the part above the groove was ripping off. I attached a small matching strip of plywood above to reinforce it, using wood glue and some small nails (nailed into the part where the groove wasn’t cut out, of course.)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381044;image)
Using the side walls and lid, I figured out the back plate width. This doubles as both the back of the cash box and the maintenance panel. Once I had everything lined up perfectly, it was time for the screws and wood glue.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381045;image)
The back plate runs from the bottom to the monitor frame. To keep it from wobbling, I used a short piece to secure it to the monitor brace. Also used some glue to keep that small split I caused together.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381046;image)
I cut the coin door lid down to fit, so that I could close the coin door. I left a small tab of wood to be both a handle for removing it, and so that the closing of the door would push the door into place, lining up the holes with the mechs.
I then cut out the coin slots out of the lid. This is a current picture of it upside down, to not spoil something I did to the top (you’ll see in a few posts.) I know the coin holes are still a bit rough, but they work. I might clean them up one day. Or just make a better version of it.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381047;image)
That's it for now. More to come.
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Shorter update here. The following takes place between December 30, 2019 (Monday) and January 2, 2020 (Wednesday).
Time to clean up the cabinet surfaces, from my recent work on it, the marks from that failed mini-drone flight, and a couple surfaces that have been a bit rough since the initial build. I removed the T-Molding near the areas to be done. Then did the standard sanding, wiping clean, and painting. Ultimately I redid the front panel (where I cut the whole), the top vent panel, and the speaker panel above the monitor opening.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381089;image)
Note that at this time, the side art does have some bubbles and rips, but it's still good enough to keep for now. Especially for what it cost me. Maybe if it gets damaged more in the future.
The first night, while waiting for paint to dry, I modified the Jamma harness. Originally, a good amount of wires ran to an operations panel located above the Jamma board in the rear of the cabinet (on the player 1 side).
An older pic (posted in this topic back on July 1, 2016) showing where the operations panel was located. It's on the right of this pic, with the coin counter installed into it.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=349173;image)
The operations panel earlier this month, pulled out.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381090;image)
After the initial build, I started referring to this as the “control wedge”. This unit had the buttons for service, test, and tilt. It controlled the source of power (either from the Jamma power supply, or external power from the connected system if it provides it), marquee light, coin lights (and if the coin buttons were set to coin 1 and 2 [lit up], or service and test [not lit]), and switches to control the source of buttons 4 and 5 (kick harness or Jamma connector). One of the main problems became actually pulling the unit forward to open the back to get at the panel all the time. Even though the coin buttons could act as my service and test, I had to get to the "control wedge" to set the buttons to that mode. After the new modifications, I still have to pull the cabinet out to change games, but nearly everything else can now be done just by opening the coin door (even reaching the DIP switches on most of my games when they're installed.)
Now that I have a panel in the coin door to access these controls, I decided to remove the “control wedge”. Spent the night soldering wire and using heat shrink to lengthen the wires, and adding tiny temporary labels (like “test”.) Also made sure to use some fairly heavy wire for the main power lines to the Jamma connector (+5v, Ground, ect.) Made sure to save the switches, terminal blocks, and counter for re-use.
Additionally, I decided to simplify the controls. I decided to permanently route buttons 4 and 5 for each controller to my kick harness (so any boards need a small adapter if they use the Jamma connector for these). I never turn off the marquee or coin door lights while running the cabinet, so those got the axe.
I did decide to go from a single shared coin counter to a dedicated one for each player.
The following days were when I had to fix my home server, so I would work on the cabinet, and then on the server as the paint dried. Reinstalling the OS, changing out a fan that wasn’t spinning up properly, and fixing a loose SATA cable. That was a 2-day job, and I thought it was the dust and the cooling fan air that was making me cough and sneeze…
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Now it’s time for LASERS!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381109;image)
Since I got my robot with laser back in fall of 2017, I wanted to use it in for customizing my Half-Shell (well, it’s scratch-built, so it’s as customized as you can get, but still…)
Here’s a YouTube video showing it. Ignore my voice quality, as I was still sick when recording it. I’m not good at commentary anyway…
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4wBC9x-rWgM
Lasering the cash box lid. The final you see is actually the second attempt. The first one came out too light, so I sanded it off and double-burned the logo again without moving the piece.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381105;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381110;image)
Here’s the inside of the cabinet, behind where the Jamma boards slide in. It took about 6 times, sanding off the bad burns each time. I need to figure out the line spacing issue (the lines are still too close together), and the text slightly curves, probably because of having to balance the arm on the monitor bracket. It would have been easier to burn it at the beginning of the whole build, but I need to experiment on more scrap wood before burning to stuff I want to keep.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381106;image)
After the burning, I drilled the holes the stuff behind the coin door. Holes for buttons, mounting the coin counters, and mounting terminal blocks for hooking things up. The white block above the switch holes is for the CRT adjustment board.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381107;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381108;image)
After that, I vacuumed and cleaned up the insides, and brought the cabinet inside. The next day would start putting all the stuff back in.
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I've been too busy with things to post lately, but I have some time to chronicle the next day.
(Note: most of the pictures here were taken today while writing this post, not during the actual wiring. I forgot to take pictures back then.)
Friday, January 3, 2020.
Fairly simple day. I put some Star Trek: The Next Generation on in the background, and started into the cabinet.
First, the cabinet was put back on the riser. Since the new cash box area blocked one of the old mounting points, I had to drill a new one. Yes, I removed all the PCBs being stored in the riser before doing this.
Next, I mounted the small pushbuttons and toggle switches into the coin door panel. Then, I connected the wires to the terminal blocks, and used a fine-tip Sharpie to write on the wood what that wire was for (the writing looks bad, but good enough to help me figure out stuff in the future).
I then mounting the arcade power supply. I had to move it back a way (since, again, the cash box blocked the old mounting points.) I doubled up on the wires for the ground and +5V lines, to make sure there's enough power for the logic (especially my Capcom CPS II. That thing is a power hog on the +5V line.) More notes were made with the Sharpie. (Also, I'm reusing an old 3-pole switch from the "control wedge" for switching +5 and +12 between the Jamma power supply and external power. I'm using 2 of the poles for +5 Volts, so the switch itself should be able to handle the power. Also, all grounds are tied together.)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381255;image)
Time to mount the coin door in. Mounted the frame first, then screwed the door into the frame properly. I installed the new lights, and wired the coin switches. These all ran to a terminal block on the maintenance panel, above the coin door opening.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381253;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381252;image)
Finally, my Jamma harness was installed. I secured it to the cabinet with zip ties, making sure it and the other connectors (kick harness, external power) had enough slack to reach the connectors on my various PCBs,
So, at this point, everything but the monitor stuff (tube, chassis board, ect.) was installed. I went over the power connections with a continuity meter carefully to double check my power connections were correct.
Now for smoke test #1. I put in my Simpsons game, and plugged the cabinet in. Flipping the power switch, everything lit up correctly (marquee, coin lights, the audio amplifier LED), and the power supply showed a nice 5.1 for voltage. After a few seconds, the intro music started. I put in a couple quarters in each slot, and the game reacted properly (remember, there's no monitor yet, so I'm doing this by sound.)
Turning everything off and unplugging it, I then started putting the display back in. Following the notes I made for taking it out, I put the proper number of spacing washers back in, then the CRT, another set of washers, and then the nuts. I then tightened the nuts down to hold the CRT nice and secure.
The chassis board went back in next. I had to refer to the original build pictures to figure out some of the wiring (where the degaussing ring plugs into and so on.) Connected the chassis to the CRT properly, and to the control board behind the coin door. Plugged in the connector for the Jamma video wires, and double-checked the CRT connections again (making sure the neck board was on securely, and the anode suction cup connection was good.) Plugged the chassis board into my cabinet's internal outlet (this CRT does not require an isolation transformer), and plugged the cabinet in again. Everything came up just as it should.
Gave the monitor a good cleaning with Windex, as well as the monitor plexiglass. I then labeled everything on the maintenance panel. At some point, I moved my holders for the hex-wrench (control panel) and small tweaker screwdriver (CRT adjustments) to the front panel for easy access (they used to be in the back). And it turns out I use both tools a lot more than I realize, so that was a good idea.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381254;image)
I then had some other things to do, so I did them, and then the sickness got pretty bad. At this point, I realized it wasn't just my allergies. I had some chicken noodle soup, ran to Walmart and got some NyQuil, and went to bed early.
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Saturday:
Spent pretty much all day sick and sleeping. I barely did anything at all that day.
I did try playing some Simpsons (as that board was still installed), but Player 1 joystick right wasn't working. So I couldn't progress in the game. I was not up for troubleshooting that day, so I left it for another day.
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Sunday, I tried a different arcade, and all the controls worked fine. Went back to the Simpsons, and everything worked. Maybe it was just a bad connection to the Jamma connection? I haven't had that problem since.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381251;image)
So, that's it for the upgrades to the cabinet itself. There are a few more things to do (the first two I'll post updates about here):
1.) During the wiring, I tried to put in my Sega Naomi setup, but found it wouldn't fit with the new cash box and maintenance panel anymore (as I feared might happen). So I have to redo that setup to hopefully fit.
2.) I'm getting some spare parts together to make a "Jamma PC" setup. I'm not doing a permanent conversion, but a Windows 7 setup on a removable board, that I can switch in and out as easily as the other boards. Glad I didn't do that before, as it probably wouldn't fit anymore either.
3.) Now that I can run my Jamma extension out the coin door, I can try to troubleshoot my broken PCBs. Maybe I can fix some of them.
4.) Got a Darksoft kit for my CPS II, but didn't get it working properly with encrypted games. Now I can give it another shot.
For now, unless I have company over, I'm leaving Ninja Baseball Bat Man installed, as that's the newest game I have. While I'm leaving the side-art and control panel art as-is, I'm considering going to gameongrafix.com and getting some marquees to match my other games. For example, right now I could switch out the TMNT marquee for Ninja Baseball Bat Man to match the game currently installed. Or the Simpsons, Final Fight, Tekken 3, ect.
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PCBs and a CRT.
Your cab makes me happy.
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Thanks! Looking at the Arcade1Up demo units (LCD, emulation, weird shape, no lit marquee [out of the box anyway], ect), I can tell that my cab feels more "real."
I'd love to expand my game PCB collection, but some of the games I want are just so darn expensive now!
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You said it jack.
I have had to pay stupid prices for some of the PCBs I have.
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Thanks! Looking at the Arcade1Up demo units (LCD, emulation, weird shape, no lit marquee [out of the box anyway], ect), I can tell that my cab feels more "real."
I'd love to expand my game PCB collection, but some of the games I want are just so darn expensive now!
It should feel more real, cause it is! Even though yours is smaller in stature, the weight alone probably helps the unit feel more substantial. I'm guessing when you put the base on it, and assuming you secured the base to the top, it probably isn't something you can move by yourself. While the upside of the smaller units is the portability, you trade in some authenticity of the rock solid arcade feel.
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Yup, the cabinet is bolted to the riser (easy to separate without any tools though.) Being smaller, the cabinet wobbles very slightly during more intense play, but stays in place. It takes some effort to roll the whole cabinet / riser combo on the carpet (which goes back to why I’d rather have the configuration controls behind a coin door, and not having to get in the back every time.)
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I was browsing YouTube last night, and happened across a video titled “The History of Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles – arcade documentary” by “PatmanQC - History of arcade game documentaries.” Saw something familiar at the 3:41 mark:
https://youtu.be/VLZlPPzWp0o?t=222
Taken from this picture:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=350021;image)
So my cabinet is used to represent the two-player version of the game (as in officially released by Konami.) To be fair though, the picture of the 4-player version is not an official cabinet either (wrong coin door, LCD screen, bat-top joysticks.)
I’m not mad at my cabinet being shown in another person’s video. It actually makes me happy that it’s good enough to represent the “official” ones like that.
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Now, about the Sega Naomi. My old setup worked fine in the old cabinet. If I used only standard game carts, it would still fit with the new cash box.
I couldn’t find a pic of the older Naomi setup by itself, but here’s an older pic of it in my cabinet during the initial construction.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=349173;image)
The Naomi mainboard was towards the front of the cabinet, with the dedicated power supply in the back bottom, and the Jamma interface board above it. Not shown above, between the power supply and over the Jamma interface was a metal plate. At first, this had the Naomi GD-ROM drive mounted to it. I later got a Naomi Net-Dimm and Raspberry Pi. The GD-ROM was swapped out for the Pi, which fed ROM images from its SD card to the Net-Dimm.
If I used the Net-Dimm (or the Dimm-board for the GD-Rom), it stuck out the top of the main board, and wouldn’t get past the new cash box. So the whole setup would only slide in about ¾ of the way.
So I took the Naomi setup apart. I took a few days to arrange things in a way that works. The power supply and the Jamma interface now go towards the front, and the Naomi itself is towards the rear of the cabinet, with the cart slot towards the very back. The power supply exhaust faces up (towards the control panel).
I used a Jamma pin connector and finger board to provide a Jamma connection that my cabinet harness can use. The kick harness and power supply connections were run next to it, and I obtained sone right-angle adapters for the mainboard video (VGA-style) and audio connections (RCA style)to keep them from snagging on the cabinet wires.
All the wiring is held in place by zip-ties and sticky mount points.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381270;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381271;image)
A test fit, and so far, so good.
The last part of the equation was the Net-Booting setup. I had no metal plate to mount the Pi to, so I had to come up with another method.
I ended up mounting the Pi directly on top of the Net-Dimm. Don’t worry, the Net-Dimm was not drilled into or modified in any way. The bottom of the Pi case is secured to the Net-Dimm by a screw that goes into an existing threaded hole. The bottom of the Pi case was cut away by moto-tool, except for certain parts to keep it from swiveling.
Last was the Ethernet cable. Made incredibly short to fit, I first cut out the side of one of the connectors. This is to prevent the cable from pressing against the cabinet back door. Took two tries, but my Ethernet cable checker tool was happy with the finished result. Also ran a USB power cable to the setup’s 5 volt and ground lines.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381272;image)
Tested the setup, and everything worked just fine. I'd prefer if I could get to the Pi and select a game though the coin door. Maybe in the future, I could try moving the Pi to above the Jamma interface? (That just occurred to me while typing this.)
Next are updates about the Windows PC I’m making for this cabinet. That’s still something I’m currently working on, so that will probably take multiple posts.
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I’m not mad at my cabinet being shown in another person’s video. It actually makes me happy that it’s good enough to represent the “official” ones like that.
Those videos are 10% ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- that guy found in 5 minutes of googling and 90% ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- he made up.
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Yeah, looking at it now, he most likely just do a Google search and grab the image. Bah!
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So I was in Walmart a few days ago, and looked at the Arcade 1Up demo. I remember that the unit saves the high scores. Well…
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381399;image)
All the high scores are corrupted (probably from so many people playing it). I wonder if that can happen eventually in MAME also when high score save is enabled.
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Some people might be confused as to why I’m putting a PC in this cabinet. If you look at what others have posted in this topic, you’ll see many praise my decision to use original arcade PCBs and a CRT display (although I think there’s more hostility towards the cheap Chinese XX in 1 boards, not MAME.)
My reasons are:
-Games are fairly expensive right now. Look, I’d love to own a Michael Jackson’s Moonwalker PCB, but I’m not paying $900 for one.
-Some games look like they’re too big. My cabinet is half-sized, so there’s not as much room inside. Luckily I’ve never gotten a single-game PCB that’s too big to fit, and I’ve managed to get my interchangeable-game systems to fit with some effort.
-There are certain functions in MAME and other emulators that are nice. Like the ability to pause and save high scores. Cheats are nice to have available too, though I don’t use them to win a game myself. Maybe on those Konami games with limited continues.
A PC setup was always part of the plan, even going back to the original construction. Go all the way back to reply #23 on page 1 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,150357.msg1574948.html#msg1574948). The top back of the cabinet was built with a pushbutton installed (it’s a black button, so it doesn’t stand out much.) This was always intended to be my pause / shift button with a PC setup, and my game select button for my Neo-Geo MVS board (if I ever get it fixed.)
My criteria for the PC setup:
-Needs to fit on a slider board, and fit in the cabinet.
-Video signal is compatible with my arcade CRT.
-Changing it in and out is as easy as with my Sega Naomi setup.
I started with some parts I had in storage. Let’s see what will work and what I’ll have to upgrade.
Asrock A75 Extreme6 motherboard
AMD A4-3300 dual core, 2.5 GHz processor
8GB RAM
ArcadeVGA card (5000 series I believe)
400 Watt power supply
Some of these I got at a yard sale in 2018, when I bought some computers to build a new home server. (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,158155.0.html) I had a spare product key for Windows 7 Professional 64-Bit, so that’s what I’m going with.
The motherboard and power supply were still mounted in an old junk PC case, so I added some spare hard drives for testing. This was actually before the reworking of the Naomi setup that I did.
While most things went OK, I could not get a picture on my CRT. I had the drivers installed for the ArcadeVGA and everything. The ArcadeVGA was connected to a small amplifier board (also from Ultimarc). I verified the board had 5 volts, and I tried cutting a VGA cable and connecting it directly to a JAMMA fingerboard. Still no luck.
I did verify the ArcadeVGA was working properly though, by connecting it to the JAMMA adapter on my Naomi setup, and powering both rigs. That gave me a picture.
So, I cut my losses, and bought a J-Pac. That worked instantly with my Windows computer and ArcadeVGA. I had a picture on my CRT at last!
However, I tried a few games, and things didn’t look right. I did modify the Mame.ini according to the instructions at Ultimarc. Still, things were noticeably bad. TMNT (or maybe it was Turtles In Time) was so far off in picture settings, I couldn’t get it centered properly with the monitor pots. Vs. Super Mario Bros was also very…orange.
Sorry Ultimarc, but I have to agree with the critics of the ArcadeVGA. It just doesn’t live up to the hype.
So what about this CRT-Emudriver and GroovyMAME I keep seeing get mentioned? I did some research and decided to give that a go. Digging though my parts once more, I found an old ATI HD 4650. I did a clean install of Win7, and followed the instructions. The end result was much better than the ArcadeVGA.
I still had some issues here and there. If I left the desktop at 640 x 480, MAME would run slow. It ran fine if I installed a custom resolution of 320 x 200 and set the desktop for that, but then the top and bottom of the game were cut off (though the part that was visible looked very good. Much better than the ArcadeVGA). No matter what, I still got a poor framerate in the Genesis cores in Retroarch (and I tried multiple cores.) (Note: Retroarch was set up to work with CRT-Emudriver using this guide.) (https://cdcruze.com/2019/03/retroarch-and-crt-emudriver-setup-guide/)
So, I tried some upgrades. I changed the processor out for an AMD A8-3870K APU. I was hoping the “APU” part would eliminate the need for a separate graphics card, but CRT-Emudriver did not recognize it. Oh well, it was a faster processor with more cores, so I left it in.
Next I upgraded the video card. Amazon has the Radeon HD 6450, new in box (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004WYV8Z6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I decided that would work with my setup. Turns out the low profile nature of the card was essential, and a full-height (like the 4650) would not have fit in my cabinet.
(Later I found out I might have just been using the wrong version of the Emudriver installer for the APU. I’ll just stick with the 6450 card though.)
Testing indicated that the video card worked nicely, and eliminated the stutter in Retroarch Genesis. There was a weird image tearing in Retroarch, but I’ll tackle that later.
After the Naomi setup was complete, I turned my attention to the PC, now named the “Jamma-PC”. I picked up an SSD for the operating system, and a 3.5 inch 2TB drive for the ROMs and other gaming stuff. (Also added another 8GB of RAM.) I got a large Jamma slider board, and started arranging the items to see how to mount them.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381400;image)
(The Pokémon characters on the lower wood board are tests from my robot laser a few years ago).
I decided to start with the power supply. I opened it up to bolt it to the board.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381401;image)
…Whoa…
The thing was absolutely filthy! The previous owners must have had it near pets or something.
So I gave the inside a good cleaning. Donning my breathing mask, I had to use a vacuum, compressed air (I use an electric unit, not disposable cans of air), and a brush.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381402;image)
Good as new. To me anyway.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381404;image)
Put everything back together while bolting it to the board.
Decided to mount the major boards next. I laid them out, and marked the holes on the board.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381403;image)
You might have noticed the I-Pac4. I already designated all the connections on the J-PAC, and needed 3 more inputs. An I-Pac4 is overkill, but this is an old version (2009 or so.) I had damaged some of the inputs (bad hookup), and I only can find one USB cable to use between this and two other setups. If I use it here, I can just use a spare PS/2 cable to the keyboard / mouse ps/2 port. Besides, it’s so old, the current software shouldn’t mess with it when I need to reprogram the J-Pac on the fly.
Marking the mounting holes with larger Xs, I mounted the PCB standoffs in the correct positions. Took the board to the garage to clean up the bottom of the board (where all the screws were poking though). Cut them off with a heavy cutting wheel on my moto-tool, and then ground them flat.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381405;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381406;image)
Test mounting OK, and the setup still fits in my cabinet.
There’s still more to do on this, so stay tuned!
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I like your work.. I think I need to try this
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I started building a “cover” of sorts to protect the computer. I know some people here like to decase their computer when putting it in their cabinet, but that’s a semi-permanent install. I’m going to be swapping this unit with Jamma boards on a regular basis, so I need to give it some protection for when it’s out of the cabinet.
To start, I measured the distance from the wooden board to the top of the CPU cooler. I then cut a number of wooden dowels to that length. Around the motherboard, I marked where to mount these dowels, and drilled tiny holes through the wooden board to mark them.
I used wood glue to secure the dowels to the board and let the glue dry when I went to work. After it dried, I reinforced the dowels with screws from the bottom (that’s why I marked the dowels from the bottom with tiny holes.)
In the original plans, I was going to use wood to cover the top. Looking through my spare pile though, I found some plexiglass left over from the original Half-Shell build. I rested it on top of the dowels, and marked the corners with a Sharpie (the plexiglass still had protective film on it.) I also marked a hole for the CPU cooler, the same size as the fan. Used my moto-tool and drill to trim the board to the right size and cut the hole. It’s a rough cut, but it’ll do.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381598;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381599;image)
I had some spare cooling fans, so I put them in to blow air across the components and video card (as the card doesn’t have a fan.) Both are held to the dowels using zip ties. Looks ghetto, but works well.
Time for more robots and lasers! I created a sort of control panel for both the “PC case” controls, and extra MAME controls that aren’t found in a regular JAMMA cabinet. This time, I created the whole thing as one big image file, instead of fighting with spacing and everything. Working with a normal flat piece of wood, there’ll be no problems with curving and stuff, like when I tried inside an already-built cabinet.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381600;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381601;image)
What the…
Ok, ignore the darker, blurriness of the lettering. I ran the laser twice in a row to try to make the letters darker, but they look more smudged to me now. My main issue is with the shape. That’s not because of the camera angle; the outer box is narrower at the bottom than the top.
I tried recalibrating the robot best I could on the spot, but I’m not sure how to do it properly. The robot came with a calibration sheet, but the menu doesn’t have the option that the calibration sheet says to run. It does have an option to automatically calibrate, but it wants me to install a special tool at the end of the arm that I didn’t get. I’ll have to get with the Dobot company when I have time on how to calibrate.
For the third try, I just edited the image to remove the outer border. That worked the best here, given my current issues.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381602;image)
Left is the first try, the middle is after what calibration I could (looks ok here, but in person, it’s still off by too much.) Right is no border, and the one I used.
Using the miter saw, I cut the panel out and into a near-perfect rectangle, with the text lined up correctly. Drilled some holes for the switches. After soldering wires to the switches, I installed them into the panel. I cut out a spot on the plexiglass for the panel, and mounted the panel under it using spacers. The PC power and reset connect to the proper headers on the motherboard (just like a PC case would) and the rest will be connected to the Winpac and JPac.
I also mounted a pair of USB ports from an old PC case, and a cut-down Ethernet wall jack wired to the Gigabit Ethernet port on the motherboard. The idea is that these are accessible from inside the coin door. The setup does still fit with the plexiglass cover, but it gets stuck if my tiny keyboard / mouse receiver is plugged into the USB. It’s that tight.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381603;image)
Now to attend to the drives. After much consideration, I decided to:
-change the mechanical 3.5 inch 2GB drive for a 2.5 inch drive of the same capacity. The 3.5 drive will go to my server instead.
-mount 4 dowels to raise everything above the cables coming from the power supply.
-use some leftover Kydex to mount the drives to. These are plastic sheets that I originally made the marquee retainer brackets (an idea I took from vwalbridge's Mini QBert build.) Both drives are mounted on their side, with a dowell in the middle for extra support. Another sheet of Kydex connects to the top, holding everything in place.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381604;image)
Took some time to get the cables hooked up in a way that wouldn’t stick out and snag on anything, but I managed to get it. My biggest hurdle here was the PSU power plug and the JPAC VGA connector being right next to each other.
I went to Amazon, and found a PSU cable with a LEFT-angle connector. I also used another VGA right-angle connector for the JPAC (good thing it was a 2-pack.) I did have to modify it some, as it was designed for right angle coming out of a video card, not the other end. So I had to pull out the little tightening screws.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381614;image)
Ran into another issue here. Putting the plexiglass on, I found the video card stuck back just a bit further than I thought. While the motherboard has three video card slots, all three had some issue. Top one was against the wooden control panel. Middle one was also against the control panel, as well as the mounting screw for it. Bottom was clear of the panel, but the mess of cables at the bottom made it unusable. I ended up using the top one, and cutting out a small part of the control panel to allow everything to fit.
Did some testing and setup outside the cabinet, and it works great. No shorts or “magic smoke,” and everything works.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381605;image)
A few days later, I received more 3-pin Molex connectors, so I put that and the kick harness in. The Molex is for powering the rest of the cabinet. You see, when using this type of setup, I plug in its power supply, not the cabinet’s JAMMA power supply. So the PC power supply runs the sound amp, coin door lights, cabinet fan, and marquee light. A double pole switch in the cabinet selects where the power comes from: Jamma or External.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381615;image)
Anyway, I just modified the end of a drive power cable on the PSU. That is, I cut off the old-style 4-pin drive power plug, and connected the 3-pin connector my cabinet uses. The kick harness is my standard 9-pin connector, buttons 4 through 7 for each player, plus the “pause” button on the back.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381617;image)
Inside the coin door, you can see the maintenance panel for the PC. Note the USB ports on the bottom, and the USB dongle for my keyboard / mouse plugged in.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381616;image)
Here it is, configured to work with my cabinet monitor (and I only now noticed my reflection.) Since the games look the same, I posted the Windows desktop. I might post a few things about configuring it, but I found setting the desktop to 320 x 240 worked best (games in Groovymame flickered if the desktop was set to 640 x 480, and parts of the image were cut off at 320 x 200.)
That covers it for now. Just some software stuff for the wrap-up, when I have the time.
*edit - doesn't look like I'm going to get to the software stuff any time soon. Gonna go ahead and mark this one as done.