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Add the width of the saw's teeth or blades to your cutting measurements, to allow for "wastage".

You misunderstood the question. It's not about which tool to use, it's about where to cut.
He's got a plan like this:


Now the question is whether the line is part of the board to cut or not. If it's part of the board, you would cut close to the line, leaving it intact. However, if you cut like this, cutting out board A would remove the thickness of your sawblade + the thickness of the line from board B.
So the answer to his question is to cut on the line, thereby removing equal parts from board A and board B.

However, this is probably moot because the OP didn't bother to log in for 6 days.

Would I be able to swap out this WG K7500 for my WG 7000?  Do both monitors require a ISO Transformer?

EDIT:  Nevermind.  I see that the K7500 does not require a ISO and the 7000 does.  And the K7500 won't be able to display Mortal Kombat, correct?

MK is standard res (15khz) 400x254p. K7500 is medium res. You may need to swap the tubes as well.

K7000 is a very common model chassis. If it has problems/if necessary, you could disconnect it from the tube and mail it to an experienced repairer.

If you use groovymame, and set it up with the default "monitor presets", it should look at least reasonably good on med res monitor. Though I've never done it before myself.

You may as well use the cab's ISO if it is installed already. It won't hurt, and gives you an extra level of protection. Whatever works best.

i am in search of the modified version also.  Can someone send me a link/

thanks

I think the reason you aren't getting any replies is that your question is too general. To provide help we need to better understand what tools you have available to you. The "best" way to cut MDf would be with a large CNC machine and a vac table or perhaps a sliding table saw but of course most people don't have easy access to those tools. Likewise, a good quality tracksaw does a very nice job as well even for long pieces. If you can provide some info as to what tools you have for cutting MDF sheets we can provide better guidance. Do you have a tablesaw with a fence? Do you have a circular saw that could be guided with an inexpensive straight edge? Generally those approaches are going to give you a better result than an unguided options like a jigsaw.

A 500watt stepper motor is rated by its max consumption of energy.  Not sure what Sega actually ran them at. My 8nm Fanatec wheels are way too much for my kids at 100% FFB strength (the manual actually warns against letting kids use the thing at full power).  The power supply is rated at 24v, 7.5A 180 watts output.  I usually setup a profile that's around 50% or less FFB strength for them.  I've seen posts about folks snapping wrists with the big 20 NM DD1/DD2 setup.

Given that Sega was probably not in the business of potentially opening themselves up to personal injury lawsuits, I'm going to guess they ran those 500watt servo motors at significantly less than they were capable of.  I actually have two of them in the garage (if you want pictures or anything, just ask)  No markings on them to speak of, and appear to be about the same size as the motor in the Fanatec CSL DD. 

They are setup with a belt drive and two pulley sizes, so there is some gearing going on.  Smaller pulley on the steering wheel shaft. 

Have you tried both native FFB in supermodel and Boom's FFB plugin? I find those are quite different for SCUD race, but haven't played around with Daytona 2

Very good first post and welcome to the forums.

Yes, it's a great question as I too, have always been curious as to what kind of wheel/motor Sega uses in their cabs so thanks for sharing that info.

It's been ages, but I vaguely remember the FFB on the Daytona 2 cab being quite strong and it felt good. I suspect arcade operators had their cab settings turned up to the max. However, I have zero doubt the current crop of DD wheels, particularly anything 15NM and over, would surpass those old belt drive Sega cab wheels not only in strength, but *ESPECIALLY* in feel and overall performance.

I can tell you first hand, that my Bodnar wheel is 26nm and I have never....EVER needed to turn it up beyond 50% strength. I accidentally had it at 75% one time and no joke, I literally nearly snapped my wrist! DD wheels are absolute monsters.

Daytona 2 feels absolutely sublime on my wheel, but I remain curious, as to whether or not there is supposed to be any force feedback effect when rubbing/banging against other cars. Does anyone know if the real arcade cab did this? Because in Supermodel you don't feel it.

not 100% sure about the ms9, but if the ms8 (which is pretty close in design) is missing the 200v power supply off the flyback someplace that feeds power to the video amp circuit, they will do this. have to check the resistors and whatnot in that power supply rail to see if something has gone open. usually there is a broken solder joint or a blown open resistor near the flyback someplace.

if you do find an open or blown out resistor, be sure to replace it with the same type (IE metal oxide resistor or wire wound etc. they are often labeled "flameproof" resistors) or if it fails again, it will do so in a spectacular fiery fashion and will burn up so hot that they can quite literally burn your house down.

Worked on overall alignment issues last night.   It seems the hardest part of this build has been getting the two cabinets as close to perfectly aligned as possible.  Small imperfections in the base leads to gaps and non-square alignment in the heads up top, which then shows up with the topper installed.

I'm not sure I'm happy with the shifter being in the default Sega cabinet position.   Feels too high when messing around with it, but its pretty dang close to the stock shifter.  I'll have to do some play testing.