The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: italdream on October 17, 2017, 02:48:42 pm
-
In 2012 I built an arcade cabinet from various parts. I used a Northcoast cabinet kit with a Makvision 27/29 and an X-arcade tankstick. I am running hyperspin with multiple systems but primarily MAME-centered.
I recently decided to upgrade the tankstick with LED buttons. I purchased a PACLED64 and RGB Ultralux buttons from ultimarc. However, I am struggling to find the components I need for the LED joysticks. I need something that will fit in the tankstick, will work with the default keyboard encoder (just replugging the micro-switches) and 5v LEDs compatible with the PACLED64.
I contacted various vendors to put together a kit but I have had no luck. For as much as I searched, I cannot find other posts discussing this. Anybody, more knowledgeable, who can steer me in the right direction re parts? Thank you in advance.
-
Have you checked out Paradise Arcade? They have a tons of custom stuff.
Since the X-Arcade uses HAPP Supers and 3/4" wood, you will either need to find a replacement hollow shaft for a Super joystick (rare) or swap out the entire joystick with a Japanese style LED ball top instead. However, the Japanese ones are made for metal control panels, not wood, so the shafts are shorter. You will need to route out some wood from underneath to made the wood thinner. However, again, Paradise Arcade comes to the rescue since they have custom Japanese joysticks that have a longer shaft so you won't need to route out anything from underneath. Just pop the adapter plate on the joystick and use the same holes.
They have an adapter plate you can get which solves the problem of the different hole pattern, so it will fit in the X-Arcade:
https://paradisearcadeshop.com/paradise-universal-plates/1175-universal-arcade-joystick-adapter-plate.html (https://paradisearcadeshop.com/paradise-universal-plates/1175-universal-arcade-joystick-adapter-plate.html)
LED Joystick for wood panels: (some are out of stock I would contact him directly)
https://paradisearcadeshop.com/levers-paradise-arcade/2037-paradise-led-joystick-long-shaft.html#/joystick_ball_tops-green_bubble/super_bright_leds-red (https://paradisearcadeshop.com/levers-paradise-arcade/2037-paradise-led-joystick-long-shaft.html#/joystick_ball_tops-green_bubble/super_bright_leds-red)
RGB LED Joystick for wood panels: (out of stock I would contact him directly)
https://paradisearcadeshop.com/levers-paradise-arcade/2054-paradise-rgb-led-joystick-long-shaft.html (https://paradisearcadeshop.com/levers-paradise-arcade/2054-paradise-rgb-led-joystick-long-shaft.html)
You may also want to make one yourself using a stock JLF joystick. Simply swap out the shaft with this longer one that's hollow. Insert your own LED color and choose from hundreds of clear 35mm ball tops:
https://www.focusattack.com/extended-sanwa-jlf-hollow-joystick-shaft/ (https://www.focusattack.com/extended-sanwa-jlf-hollow-joystick-shaft/)
https://www.focusattack.com/controls/joysticks/joystick-accessories/balltop-handles/ (https://www.focusattack.com/controls/joysticks/joystick-accessories/balltop-handles/)
But either way you will need that adapter plate.
Hope this helped!
DeL
-
Our J-Stik would fit, with the RGB handle option. This is pre-wired and plugs directly into the PacLED64. 5 min install. Pretty sure no adaptor plate needed.
The RGB handle is the same length as the long handle for this stick so would be fine for wood panel installation.
-
Hi Andy, I presume that the microswitches would work with the standard keyboard encoder on the tankstick. if so, I will make the order (I did yesterday the one for the other parts).
I am a first timer and total noob on the LED controls so I am still understanding the standards, wiring etc.
To DEL: Paradise has been super great and I was ready to order, just a lot of the stuff was out of stock on the website. They could get them for me but I was concerned with timing and with whether certain connections and wiring were above my skills level. So I went back to the drawing board and ultralux seems pretty plug-and-play. I am just left with the question about the LED sticks, which seems resolved now.
-
No worries italdream, I'm glad I got the wheels turning on choices. Andy knows his stuff and his products and support are quality for sure!
Let us know how it turns out! Also, while you have everything apart, you may want to consider a new control panel overlay. They have many to choose from for the X-Arcade Tankstick or you can design your own. $40. http://gameroomgraphics.com/category/x-arcade-tankstick-skins/ (http://gameroomgraphics.com/category/x-arcade-tankstick-skins/)
DeL
-
Yes the microswitches should directly connect, they have 4.8mm connections. You could check this but I believe they are the same.
Another option which is compatible with the RGB handle is the Servostik with its auto 4-8 way switching but clearance for the servo motor would need to be checked against the diagram on our site.
-
Thank you Andy. I made the order. Hope everything goes well but some hiccup is part of the experience.
Del: thank you for your input. I will keep everybody updated, I am sure that I will have questions as I put together the components. I am getting a custom overlay but there is 2-3 weeks time so we shall see.
If the parts get here on time, the LED mods is my main weekend project.
-
Hi guys I have a pletora of spare power supply pc charger but none would accept the molex for the pacled64. I'll head over for lunch at a local pc store but is there another way to connect the pacled64? I am thinking of an adapter or maybe easier buying a universal charger that connects directly into the Pac?
-
Why wont they fit?
The pac led 64 just attaches via a standard 4 pin molex as found on a pc psu??
-
Couldn't find any slot. It might be related to the fact that it is a mini tower pc. Either that or I have reached a whole new of dumbness. Anyway even when I upgraded my graphics card it was a pain in the neck to find proper size so I am used. I'll look into an adapter of sort.
P. S. To clarify I have not opened the tower yet since receiving the led controller. I thought the pc slot would be on the outside. That will have to wait until the weekend.
-
Well you defo wont find a molex outside the tower lol
If its a mini tower though it may not have molexes at all, it may not even have spare plugs as some are built not to be upgraded so to speak.
If thats the case all you can do is break into one of the existing leads.
Also check the PSU has the grunt to run the tower and the extras.
-
Yeah I doubt I'll find spares inside. But I don't see why I could not run it through a 12v power adapter of proper amperage. I would just connect it on its own powersource.
-
You can do that to :)
-
:) :) We'll see how it goes! I am getting the components for the LED sticks today. If I can get power, it will be a good start. ;D ;D
Total noob on the project. Seems very approachable but I will probably be here asking more questions. In the meantime, thank you very much for such a great availability. HS setup for 125+ systems has been time-consuming to say the least. I am sure that I will find a way to get into some bump or get one or two things out of order with the new variable of LED controllers.
-
Yeah I doubt I'll find spares inside. But I don't see why I could not run it through a 12v power adapter of proper amperage. I would just connect it on its own powersource.
The supply needs to be 5V or 6V if using our LEDs. But would work fine, the current capacity would need to be at least 0.02 X number of LED channels. (Amps).
-
Thank you Andy. I have a 3 v sitting around, a 5v that does not fit and a 12v (1A so plenty) that powers it alright. I know that the Ultralux are 5v but the website says the PACLED64 works on 12 (max). Am I OK with the 12v or do I need to shop around for a 5v converter that fits the socket?
-
LEDs operate on voltages of 1.8 volts or so, depending on color and spec. Any higher supply requires power to be dissipated and heat will be generated. The unit being small and sealed is going to get very hot inside if a 12V supply is used.
-
Thanks. I bought a multi-voltage power adapter. 6v did the trick. For some reason, 5 was not turning the leds on.
-
All set up. It took a long time but it is done. Ledblinky will take some time to have all games working as I want, but it is expected and all is good.
Ledblinky (and rocketblinky) was surprisingly easy to work with. The hardest part was working with the tankstick. It required a lot a sanding and small cuts to fit everything.
Wiring was relatively easy. The hard part was figuring out that the yellow wire goes into each Pacled64 "+" port. I missed that part on the website and it took me hours to troubleshoot the issue.
Anything that could go wrong at some point went wrong (from lack of spare molex to the long shaft bumping into the bottom of the tankstick when I was closing after final assembly and setup). However, I learned a lot. For example, I failed the first time I tried to change the sanwa Shaft. Those who have had the same problems before, probably know that it is difficult to put together once the spring goes out. I ended up disassembling the control and putting it back together.
Quality of Ultimarc components is high. Thank you Andy for your quick shipping and prompt support.
-
Good stuff, remember to post pics once your all done :)
-
I'll post more pics from a pc (on the phone now).
First pic is tankstick just open. Second is all wired up with the buttons, shafts and LEDs (before final sanding of the exit holes I made for the Ledpac64 usb and power wires).