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Main => Everything Else => Topic started by: Howard_Casto on November 26, 2016, 12:54:56 pm

Title: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on November 26, 2016, 12:54:56 pm
It's that time of year again and all the low to mid end 3d printers are on sale.  I'm considering it this time, but I'm a little overwhelmed from all the choices. 

Thus far these two stick out on the low end:

http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=107&cp_id=10724&cs_id=1072403&p_id=15365&seq=1&format=2&AID=11064683&PID=4485850&ref=cj&utm_source=cj&utm_medium=11064683&utm_term=Slickdeals+LLC-1122587 (http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=107&cp_id=10724&cs_id=1072403&p_id=15365&seq=1&format=2&AID=11064683&PID=4485850&ref=cj&utm_source=cj&utm_medium=11064683&utm_term=Slickdeals+LLC-1122587)

I believe this is the one a bunch of you got a while back.  It seems to be built to high quality and it isn't a kit, which is nice.  Then I found this one....

http://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_343643.html?wid=8&siteid=136649&utm_source=webgains&utm_campaign=GearbestUSA (http://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_343643.html?wid=8&siteid=136649&utm_source=webgains&utm_campaign=GearbestUSA)

Now obviously it's a kit, it's constructed of a cheaper lexan base, and the fit and finish isn't as nice but....  it has a build volume of 220x220x240mm!  That's nearly a 10 inch cube!

So suggestions or comments sure would be appreciated.  I really like the larger build size of the cheaper model, but if it's a piece of junk all the extra volume is pointless.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on November 27, 2016, 10:03:44 am
I got the monoprice mini for $170.  The learning curve for it isn't nearly what I expected.
Make crap in tinkercad>export stl file>open in the copy of Cura included with the printer>export gcode to microsd card>pop in printer and select file.
I cranked out this fairly quickly: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,152133.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,152133.0.html)
I also made a bracket to hold my cell phone right under the radio in my truck.
So far, I only have a couple ideas in my head that I'd need a larger printer for, but decided I'd just join the local maker space and use their 3D printer after I get the designs done.
For me, this purchase was all about getting my feet wet and moving along the learning curve.  It has been great for that.

As far as the other one, I'd probably still be a bit intimidated by the user interface and needing to tweak it to get better results.
The guy in the video sounds like he had some issues before printing modifications for it.

So as a total noob I'd want the monoprice one, but if I were more experienced the bigger one would be better.

After I get experienced with design software more complicated with Tinkercad, I'll probably move up to a bigger machine.



Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on November 27, 2016, 12:36:22 pm
Well the tinkering I expect, but there are a few issues creeping up with the china unit.  Apparently the included software isn't supported by win 10.  I'm sure you can download something else, but that means software tinkering as well.  Also I'm unsure if it comes with sample filament, which isn't a huge deal, but then it isn't really cheaper.  I'll have to research more.  I'm waiting until Monday to see if there are any sales.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on November 27, 2016, 12:48:46 pm
Well the tinkering I expect, but there are a few issues creeping up with the china unit.  Apparently the included software isn't supported by win 10.  I'm sure you can download something else, but that means software tinkering as well.  Also I'm unsure if it comes with sample filament, which isn't a huge deal, but then it isn't really cheaper.  I'll have to research more.  I'm waiting until Monday to see if there are any sales.

The amount of filament the monoprice comes with isn't really enough to make anything.
For me, it did the bed level test print (per the instructions) and about 1/5th of the included cat figurine.
Rough estimate: only pennies worth of filament.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on November 27, 2016, 01:19:30 pm
Well I'm just wondering how much I'll waste before getting it calibrated properly.  Yeah it's probably not enough to matter, but when you'll throw a decent portion in the trash every little bit helps. 

They've also sold out at the LA warehouse, meaning shipping isn't free and it'll likely come over on the slow boat from China. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Slippyblade on November 27, 2016, 04:16:48 pm
When I get a 3D printer, I intend to build a grinder/extruder to recycle botched prints.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on November 27, 2016, 04:28:07 pm
Howard - No.  No new projects.

Finish up your other projects first.  My Everdrive purchase is on hiatus until you clean up that front end.

 :cheers:
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on November 27, 2016, 04:32:52 pm
I was just reading up on that.  One guy made a pellet extruder that you just swap out instead of the normal filament extruder.  He's gotten decent results thus far but the thing about pellets is you typically have to buy them in massive quantities to get those big savings. 

I'm impressed with what you can print with now.  They have metal filament, wood-like filament and even felt filament. 

pbj:  This would probably give me more time to work on that junk.  The physical building of my racing cab has taken up the bulk of my time.  Being able to just print the fiddly bits would be a huge help.  Are you talking about the n64 one?  The third party FE isn't that bad once you get it configured.... it probably needs a bit more fit and finish though.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: thomas_surles on November 27, 2016, 04:36:38 pm
Howard - No.  No new projects.

Finish up your other projects first.  My Everdrive purchase is on hiatus until you clean up that front end.

 :cheers:
Might want to step on that while they are still on sale.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on November 28, 2016, 01:05:23 am
Been researching this tonight.  Man my head is spinning.... so many options.  I found one that is an i3 clone (apparently the Chinese model and several others are just i3 clones) and uses a rigid steel construction.... it's a slightly smaller print area, but many of the bugs have been fixed.  Unfortunately the shipping is ridiculously high... I think the cheapest option was 70 bucks.  Maybe this is why many of the diy kits are acrylic based.   

Still torn between the two.  Something that is leaning me towards the monoprice one is the fact that it hasn't been known to catch fire.  Apparently many of the i3 clones use sub-standard connectors that can heat up and melt over time.  So right out of the box it has to be modded with molex connectors. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on November 28, 2016, 11:08:45 am
Eh, I thought you were hacking the NES and Genesis Everdrives.  Nobody cares about N64.  Get that 3D printer.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on November 28, 2016, 04:27:49 pm
Well if somebody can find me some source code I can.  The n64 cart has an open-source alternative.  The others don't afaik. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: SammyWI on November 28, 2016, 07:39:41 pm
I have the Anet A8.  It definitely needs some upgrades and several plugs and wires are undersized which are a known fire hazard.  Expect to spend an extra $100 or so on upgrades.  That said, I really like it.  It's my second 3d printer and it has worked really well for me.  The print volume really sold it for me.  If you can live with a bit smaller print volume I'd go with one of the smaller Prusia I3 based units that doesn't need quite so many upgrades.

With RepRap based printers like the A8 or other Prusia I3 based units, you really don't need to worry about included software as there are many free and often open source options that work well.  Some of the closed source hardware designs may lock you into certain software.  The Anet controller board firmware is not open source but there is a group called Skynet3D that has an alternative firmware available that's I believe open source (free anyway).

Starter filament I wouldn't worry about since you will need far more to get things dialed in and then plenty more for printing.

They are available from more places than Gearbest but pretty much all of the sources I've heard of have non-existent customer service.  I got mine from https://www.3dprintersbay.com (https://www.3dprintersbay.com) which lists a US address but ships from China. 
Ship time was a bit under 2 weeks but might be more now with the holidays.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on November 28, 2016, 11:32:11 pm
My next question was going to be where to buy.  Gearbest is out... as you said their customer service isn't great, they are out of units in the US, and shipping is no longer free. 

I've found a ton of i3 clones on ebay/amazon/ect.  Some have anet pcbs and some have melzi.  I've heard bad things about both so I'm not sure which one to get.  The melzi are slightly cheaper which makes me think they are worse.

The build size is what interests me.  It's large enough to print enclosures for projects without having to print in pieces. 

I want to try and get one that's already in the USA just so it'll get here before the holidays. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: SammyWI on November 29, 2016, 08:39:21 am
I believe the Anet PCB is a rearranged Melzi. But I am seeing reports that people are getting newer Anet boards that have improved connectors which is good. I've seen some other variations between kits. Some have gotten acrylic sub frames on the heat bed which is not as good as the aluminum that I got.

Keep in mind that printing right up to the edge of the designed print volume can be difficult. I try to leave some margin. And large prints are both more difficult to print and can take a very long time.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on November 29, 2016, 04:08:01 pm
Well then I'm probably seeing an older model of the same printer then, and that's the reason for the discount. 

How could I tell about the printer sub-frame?  It's covered in most pics, but if I knew what to look for...

I'm aware I can't print to the bounds easily, but the monoprice ones are so much smaller I'm thinking they would struggle to print out... let's say a Gameboy shell or something similar. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: SammyWI on November 29, 2016, 07:03:50 pm
I don't think you can really tell anything about what particular changes you might get from the resellers pages or photos.  I doubt the resellers themselves have much of a clue, they just get the boxes from China and ship them out.  These Chinese manufacturers tend to make small changes and upgrades as they go without updating descriptions, etc.  Can make assembly interesting! These printers seem to be selling like mad so I doubt you'll really find old stock anywhere.

Most all of the printer parts are available cheaply from Chinese suppliers. Sometimes quality is too cheap but for the most part I have had good luck.  I know an aluminum sub bed is available from other places or making one would not be very hard. It becomes slightly addicting to upgrade and mod your printer when you see parts on Amazon Prime for $10.

A gameboy shell should not be too difficult at all to print.  I looked up sizes and I saw less than 150mm as the biggest dimension.  I'd say you could print that on a 170mm bed or larger very easily.  Pushing things nearly to the edges should be possible but may be more challenging.

If you see versions that have an auto bed level upgrade, don't get it.  I bought that version and it did not actually do auto bed leveling, it just swapped the typical Z home limit switch (physical microswitch) for an inductive sensor that senses the aluminum build plate.  I ended up buying a new inductive sensor (better range and repeatability) and changing to the Skynet3D firmware to enable auto leveling. A very worthwhile upgrade IMO.

Materials: I would stay away from ABS.  I used it for several years and always had problems.  The main issue is that it shrinks when cooling which leads to it pealing of the bed when printing, warping and just a general pain. PLA is the easiest printing material and works for many parts, would probably be fine for gameboy shells.  For stronger and more heat resistant stuff I use PETG.  PETG is also more flexible in thin sections and comes in both opaque and translucent colors.  Both PLA and PETG (and ABS) print at temps low enough for the Anet hot end. Some materials require higher temps (nylon and polycarbonate for example) and really need the hotend changed to an all metal version.  The included hot end has a teflon liner which will melt and give off nasty gasses if heated too high.  How high is too high is debatable but I like to keep mine to 240 C and below.

I'm rambling, I know but I'm at home now with a real keyboard to type on.  And it's nice to talk about this on a real forum rather than a Facebook group where each thread seems to have three reasonable people and a hundred kids screaming: "yes it is, no it isn't, hey look something shiny!"
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on November 29, 2016, 11:29:54 pm
Yeah I'm swaying back in the i3 direction due to the amount of parts and mods available.  Anything from dual heads to new frames.  I'm glad you said something about the auto-level because on the aforementioned facebook page everybody swears by the auto-level version.  It didn't make sense to me how a cheap sensor would help. 

I'm not interested in abs except for special projects due to the fumes alone.  I'm thinking it might be better to keep it in the house as it looks a bit delicate. 



I hear ya.  As per usual I ask in this forum and somebody who knows what they are talking about answers.  Funny how that works around here.  ;)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: SammyWI on November 30, 2016, 08:14:40 am
Keeping it inside is a very good idea. Climate controlled is best as any temperature changes can mess things up. Even a draft can mess up prints, keep away from open windows or HVAC vents. Humidity can affect the filliment too but PLA and PETG are not too sensitive to moisture. Dry filliment is happy filliment.

We are lucky to have the BYOAC forum. Many forums are dying with people shifting to Facebook groups, etc which is a huge loss IMO.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on November 30, 2016, 12:46:49 pm
Well I know I said gearbest is out, but it's back in.  They just had a new sale, 149 bucks shipped from LA.  I used paypal for payment and bought the shipping insurance for a couple bucks to protect myself. 

So:  [Smee]If anybody's not 3d printing... get here quick![/Smee]

http://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_343643.html?wid=8&siteid=136649&utm_source=webgains&utm_campaign=GearbestUSA (http://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_343643.html?wid=8&siteid=136649&utm_source=webgains&utm_campaign=GearbestUSA)

Pay attention to the warehouse because when they run out it switches over to China and they charge you an additional 30 bucks (not to mention the 4-6 weeks for delivery)

So now that I've ordered one and I've saved so much money, are there any parts/mods/ect you guys recommend getting?  Urls on stuff would be helpful.

I've gotta buy some filament as well.  I stumbled across a ebay store that was selling red and blue pla 1kg spools for a mere 10 bucks a spool.  I'm unsure why those filaments are so cheap while other colors can be upwards of 30 bucks.  I've gotta get black though as I'll be printing some stuff for my car.  Transparent is interesting as well.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: SammyWI on November 30, 2016, 12:59:46 pm
I'll respond in some detail when I get home tonight and can use a real keyboard. But I would stay away from the cheap mystery fillimaent. It will only cause you grief. Hatchbox and Esun brand PLA have both been good for me and are on Amazon Prime. Makergeeks are not on Amazon but are one of my favorites and they do grab bag style deals for discounts but they pick the colors.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: SammyWI on November 30, 2016, 08:35:57 pm
I'm using Amazon for most links since that's where I buy most but Ebay and Aliexpress (cheap but slow) are both fine sources.

My feeling is that most of the overheating issues people have are a combination of marginally sized connectors / wires and poor assembly.  I have to bet that Howard will have no issues with electrical assembly  ;) after that check things carefully during the first few prints for any overheating.  Also, I don't like running the bed too hot with the stock setup.  50 - 60 C is plenty for PLA and PETG.  ABS needs more like 100+ C which is pushing things for this unit and another reason to avoid ABS.  Make sure the wires to the hotend are secured with a strain relief to the corner of the X carriage. Otherwise things can loosen up and fall out of the hotend causing a thermal runaway. This comes up weekly on the Facebook groups at least.  Make sure the wires to both the hotend and hot bed are able to reach freely to all movement positions and don't get pinched or pulled too tight.  Zipties are your friend.

My must do upgrades:
Power supply.  The supplied unit is 20A with no fan.  It's undersized and poor quality.  Easiest to up it to a 30A with fan like these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MAC9MO6/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_5_w (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MAC9MO6/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_5_w)
Also possible to use a computer power supply.  And some people run two power supplies, one for the hot bed and one for the rest.

Hotbed SS relay.  I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
This lets you bypass the PCB for the hotbed power, the PCB hotbed output is then used as a signal to the relay.  Really cuts down on the undersizing / overheating issues.

Hotbed electrical connection.  The plug / wires are a little undersized and it gets warmer than I'd like but has not failed or discolored on me so far.  Most straight forward fix is to up the power wire size and solder them directly to the board.  Easiest to do during assembly but since I didn't do it then and I hate to disassemble a working unit, I'm still working in this.

Hot bed springs.  The hot bed springs can scratch through the 'paint' insulation on the bed and short the bed.  Easy fix just add some kind of insulating washer.  I just cut up some plastic I had laying around.

Really recommended:
Hot bed surface.  Getting the plastic to stick well for the whole print time but still pull off when done is the eternal problem for 3D printers.  The right print surface is a big part of this.

The masking tape that comes on the bed will work for PLA but is kinda crap.  PLA will print pretty well with blue painters tape and an unheated bed. 3M tape seems to be one of the best.  Needs to be replaced every 10 prints or so (depends on how hard you are on it). Clean off any fingerprint residue, dust, etc with some rubbing alcohol before each print (true for most any surface). May help to roughen up the surface a bit.

My best recommendation here is to use PEI (Ultem). It's a type of plastic that has just the right amount of stick and release on a heated bed, at least for PLA and PETG. Leaves a very smooth surface on the bottom. No glue or other stuff to mess with. Most common PEI is a plastic sheet about 1/32" thick that you have to add adhesive to, often sold as a kit for 3d printers.   I prefer precut PEI tape I get from here: http://catalog.cshyde.com/item/3d-printing-materials/ultem-pei/36-3a-3d-866x866 (http://catalog.cshyde.com/item/3d-printing-materials/ultem-pei/36-3a-3d-866x866). Lasts for a lot of prints as long as you don't tear it up getting prints up. I have yet to replace my first piece. I've used a lot of different surfaces and PEI bets them all, works great and easy to use. Just wipe with alcohol before each print.

Decent tool to remove prints.  Lots of options but I like this one: https://www.amazon.com/ToyBuilder-Labs-Print-Removal-Tool/dp/B00VB1U886/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480556021&sr=8-2&keywords=3d+print+removal+tool (https://www.amazon.com/ToyBuilder-Labs-Print-Removal-Tool/dp/B00VB1U886/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480556021&sr=8-2&keywords=3d+print+removal+tool). It's cheap, thin and flexible enough to get under the part but not sharp so won't hurt the surface.

OK I better stop now.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 30, 2016, 09:20:08 pm
I'm using Amazon for most links since that's where I buy most but Ebay and Aliexpress (cheap but slow) are both fine sources.

My feeling is that most of the overheating issues people have are a combination of marginally sized connectors / wires and poor assembly.  I have to bet that Howard will have no issues with electrical assembly  ;) after that check things carefully during the first few prints for any overheating.  Also, I don't like running the bed too hot with the stock setup.  50 - 60 C is plenty for PLA and PETG.  ABS needs more like 100+ C which is pushing things for this unit and another reason to avoid ABS.  Make sure the wires to the hotend are secured with a strain relief to the corner of the X carriage. Otherwise things can loosen up and fall out of the hotend causing a thermal runaway. This comes up weekly on the Facebook groups at least.  Make sure the wires to both the hotend and hot bed are able to reach freely to all movement positions and don't get pinched or pulled too tight.  Zipties are your friend.

My must do upgrades:
Power supply.  The supplied unit is 20A with no fan.  It's undersized and poor quality.  Easiest to up it to a 30A with fan like these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MAC9MO6/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_5_w (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MAC9MO6/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_5_w)
Also possible to use a computer power supply.  And some people run two power supplies, one for the hot bed and one for the rest.

Hotbed SS relay.  I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
This lets you bypass the PCB for the hotbed power, the PCB hotbed output is then used as a signal to the relay.  Really cuts down on the undersizing / overheating issues.

Hotbed electrical connection.  The plug / wires are a little undersized and it gets warmer than I'd like but has not failed or discolored on me so far.  Most straight forward fix is to up the power wire size and solder them directly to the board.  Easiest to do during assembly but since I didn't do it then and I hate to disassemble a working unit, I'm still working in this.

Hot bed springs.  The hot bed springs can scratch through the 'paint' insulation on the bed and short the bed.  Easy fix just add some kind of insulating washer.  I just cut up some plastic I had laying around.

Really recommended:
Hot bed surface.  Getting the plastic to stick well for the whole print time but still pull off when done is the eternal problem for 3D printers.  The right print surface is a big part of this.

The masking tape that comes on the bed will work for PLA but is kinda crap.  PLA will print pretty well with blue painters tape and an unheated bed. 3M tape seems to be one of the best.  Needs to be replaced every 10 prints or so (depends on how hard you are on it). Clean off any fingerprint residue, dust, etc with some rubbing alcohol before each print (true for most any surface). May help to roughen up the surface a bit.

My best recommendation here is to use PEI (Ultem). It's a type of plastic that has just the right amount of stick and release on a heated bed, at least for PLA and PETG. Leaves a very smooth surface on the bottom. No glue or other stuff to mess with. Most common PEI is a plastic sheet about 1/32" thick that you have to add adhesive to, often sold as a kit for 3d printers.   I prefer precut PEI tape I get from here: http://catalog.cshyde.com/item/3d-printing-materials/ultem-pei/36-3a-3d-866x866 (http://catalog.cshyde.com/item/3d-printing-materials/ultem-pei/36-3a-3d-866x866). Lasts for a lot of prints as long as you don't tear it up getting prints up. I have yet to replace my first piece. I've used a lot of different surfaces and PEI bets them all, works great and easy to use. Just wipe with alcohol before each print.

Decent tool to remove prints.  Lots of options but I like this one: https://www.amazon.com/ToyBuilder-Labs-Print-Removal-Tool/dp/B00VB1U886/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480556021&sr=8-2&keywords=3d+print+removal+tool (https://www.amazon.com/ToyBuilder-Labs-Print-Removal-Tool/dp/B00VB1U886/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480556021&sr=8-2&keywords=3d+print+removal+tool). It's cheap, thin and flexible enough to get under the part but not sharp so won't hurt the surface.

OK I better stop now.
Wow, I have no interest in getting one of these, but I enjoyed this breakdown, Sammy!!!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on November 30, 2016, 10:34:47 pm
Thanks Sammy that's extremely helpful. 

I think I've got an old atx power supply from a gateway of all things.  I'll have to check the wattage but it's small enough to fit on the chassis.  I have some nylon washers from another project that will fix the spring issue. 

In regards to the bed, I saw where one guy used glass that was roughed up with a dremel.  Do you think that would work?  I was thinking of maybe a mirror as I could monitor the underside of a print as it's printing. 

I'll go ahead and order the other stuff. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: SammyWI on December 01, 2016, 08:10:27 am
Glass is a good choice for a print bed. Best is borosilicate glass that can handle the heat and stress well. Some people report using plain glass or mirrors without problems, others say those can shatter without warning.  Some people like to roughen up the surface but most print with some kind of glue on the glass. Hairspray is one choice but I had great results using PVA glue which is just the basis of Elmer's white glue. Elmer's purple glue stick worked great for pla and nylon on my old printer.  The downside of glue is  bit of mess and needing to clean it off prints and every 5 prints or so I had to clean the build up off the glass and start fresh. But PVA is water soluble and easy to clean.

Glass can be attached to the bed with binder clips so you can remove which is very useful. But the nozzle can run into the clips if you're not careful. You can also stick the glass down more permanently. Heatsink tape works well from what I hear and helps the glass get up to temperature faster. Speaking of that, you will probably have to take a bit more time heating the bed and remember the bed temperature sensor is on the bottom so the glass temp will lag behind the indicated temp.

The big issue that made me switch away from glass is that an inductive sensor needs metal to work. The glass adds more distance to the Aluminium heat bed and it's hard to get a sensor to work for that extra distance. I know I said don't get the auto level version but that is only because Anets version sucks. A DIY upgrade is very worthwhile and is one of my favorite things about my new printer.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Slippyblade on December 01, 2016, 11:14:30 am
Awesome thread.  I've been on the fence about getting a 3D Printer and I think I may finally pull the trigger this season.  Merry Christmas to me!  I'm looking at custom brackets, project enclosures, etc. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on December 01, 2016, 11:39:34 am
I've used mine more than I thought I would.

It's strange.  Several times now I've needed a small part that I would usually have cut out of wood or bent up metal to make.
Rather than getting out the jigsaw to cut it (poorly), drill and bits to drill it, It's easier to just make the thing in tinkercad and print it out.

This weekend I'm going to be stuck at a Christmas party when I'd rather be at home watching football.
I made a tiny stand to hold my phone up at a good viewing angle.  It only took 10 minutes to design and 6 minutes to print.
I printed out extra for the office, car, coat pockets.

What I've found to be the most useful tool is a digital caliper.
Adjust to size of part needed>look at number on display>drag object in tinkercad to that size

I've also started printing thin partial parts to test fit, as part of the design process.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on December 01, 2016, 01:24:48 pm
Well I'm having to come to terms with the fact that in my left eye at least, my eyesight isn't what it used to be.  I used to be really good at fabricating fiddly bits for projects but now I'm constantly screwing stuff up.  Depth perception plays more of a role in making things than you would expect.  Hopefully when I get glasses this spring it will help, but in the meantime I think I would actually save time and money by designing stuff in the computer and then printing it out.  I guess all those years learning 3dsmax and autocad for 3darcade wasn't wasted. ;)

I'm also very excited about the auto gear and sprocket plugin for google sketchup.  Being able to design and print out a working gear box seems very useful. 

A digital caliper is on my short list of things to buy.  I wanted to see if harbor freight had any deals. 

I will get an auto-level kit down the road, but I want to learn how to use the thing first.  I figure manual calibration knowledge will help me troubleshoot any problems with the auto-level system.  Believe it or not I probably have pyrex or possibly some safety glass around here somewhere.  Sometimes I feel like WV is just some elaborate Truman Show, only mixed with Sanford & Son.... and Cops. 

Oh btw... companion projects: 

One of the first things I want to build is a 3d scanner.  Sure enough there are thingiverse plans for a small scanner.  I want to up-scale it so it can handle larger objects though.  I also spent all night watching some guy rube-goldberg together a filament extrusion machine over the course of several months only to wake up this morning and see another guy had designed one that I would have made... vertical with the  hot end gravity fed, which solves 90% of the consistency problems because...well...gravity is a constant. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: SammyWI on December 01, 2016, 07:58:28 pm
If I haven't mentioned it yet check out www.thingiverse.com (http://www.thingiverse.com) for models shared to print.

Nothing wrong with using a simple switch for the Z home. I would recommend modding it like this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1479176 (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1479176)
This lets you level the bed seperatly from adjusting Z home position and gives you a fairly precise adjustment. Also make sure that you lock the bed into position after leveling the corners. I think this area tends to move during printing and the wing nuts supplied may not have very good threads.  Kits come with extra M3 nuts so I'd use extras as jam nuts.

A better fan duct is a good early mod.  Plenty to choose from, I used this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1823404 (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1823404)

You'll see a lot of printed frame braces to support the points where the y axis (hotbed) belt attaches. I don't know if the frames tends to bend there or not but it seemed like a reasonable thing to reinforce at assembly.  IMO the printed braces are a lot of material to solve a simple issue.  I liked this idea: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1517525 (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1517525).  But I just ran the extra threaded rod as close to the belt attachment as I could without printing a special belt attachment part.  Just had to drill some holes through the front and center frame pieces, the back frame piece already has an oversized hole to use that can be covered with some fender washers. Again, best to do at initial assembly.  You do risk cracking the acrylic parts drilling the holes but I had no problems going slow with light pressure and scrap wood backing.

3D scanner is on my list of projects.

Funny you should mention gears.  I am a mechanical engineer and I design gears as part of my job. Surprised to hear that SketchUp has a plug in for gears. Last time I tried to look at Sketchup for a friends project it drove me nuts with how imprecise it was.  Maybe it's changed. I do have some gear models shared at Thingiverse under the username Drawcut.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: SammyWI on December 01, 2016, 08:10:16 pm
Youtube channels can vary wildly in quality but here are some of the best 3D printing channels I've found:
https://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer (https://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer)
https://www.youtube.com/user/TheMakersMuse (https://www.youtube.com/user/TheMakersMuse)
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC_7aK9PpYTqt08ERh1MewlQ (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC_7aK9PpYTqt08ERh1MewlQ)
https://www.youtube.com/user/mrjoesays (https://www.youtube.com/user/mrjoesays)
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCVmyytnqQrcTg1WRFXTo14Q (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCVmyytnqQrcTg1WRFXTo14Q)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on December 03, 2016, 11:10:49 pm
For frame stability is was just going to mount the whole thing on some laminated wood.  I think I have part of a countertop lying around somewhere. 

I think I've got everything ordered.  I still need to order a spatula to remove prints and unfortunately spatula city is no longer in business.  ;)  I was looking into pcb milling and some people have add success using the i3 to mill with a large dc motor and spindle.  I've probably got that crap lying around.  I'm also looking into 3d scanning... it hasn't progressed much since the last time I looked.  A laser pointer/camera combo still seems to be the way to go. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on December 04, 2016, 12:49:30 am
I ended up putting mine downstairs in our spare bedroom closet. I am not sure if your is going to be as loud as mine. The Printrbot Simple Metal gears have a really high pitch to them, gets super annoying after awhile.

(https://s19.postimg.org/y8jyt55pr/0719161741.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/y8jyt55pr/)

The Printrbot has a built in auto level but I had too many issues with it. I just took out the auto level gcode command and threw in some nuts and screws and just manually adjust it. Ive never had leveling issues since.

As mentioned earlier in the thread Hatchbox PLA is my go to filament. Can get it shipped in a couple days through Amazon Prime and consistency has been good.

I was going to get a glass build plate but once I upgraded to a heated build plate I stopped having warping or peeling issues. Now I just slap on some painters tape and I am good to go. (Image shows kapton tape instead, this is when I first upgraded the build plate size, pre auto level fix)

Scanning is also my next thing but the ones I really want are like 5K and up.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: SammyWI on December 04, 2016, 11:11:55 am
I have mine mounted to some 3/4" plywood I had laying around. I cut pieces of rubber gasket material to put between the printer and the wood then got some stick on rubber feet for under the plywood. Works well and probably helps dampen noise and vibration.  I used this stuff but got it at a local hardware store: https://www.amazon.com/Danco-59859-Rubber-Packing-Sheets/dp/B000PS9Z8A/ref=sr_1_10?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1480866712&sr=1-10&keywords=rubber+sheet (https://www.amazon.com/Danco-59859-Rubber-Packing-Sheets/dp/B000PS9Z8A/ref=sr_1_10?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1480866712&sr=1-10&keywords=rubber+sheet)

The Anet A8 has been quieter than my Printrbot original. I have it in the basement in an unfinished workbench area.  But it is directly below our bedroom. My wife says she can't hear it at all in the bedroom.  I can just barely hear a few bits if it's quiet and I concentrate but it doesn't bother me for sleeping.

I just got the  heated bed plug worked out.  It is a 6 pin plug with only 4 used.  The two outside plugs are bed power, the two innermost pins are for the thermistor. But the two unused pins are soldered in to the heatbed just unused on the wire side of the plug. (Somebody on a FB group saw this.) So I added two connectors and wires back to the Mofset and I now have 4 wires for heating the bed and the plug sides and wires have gone from warm to the touch to room temperature. Soldering the wires directly is still probably a better way to go but I really didn't want to take the bed off since it has been printing so well.  The bed plug is a JST VH series (or a copy of one). I got parts from Digikey (https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/jst-sales-america-inc/SVH-41T-P1.1/455-1319-1-ND/608888 (https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/jst-sales-america-inc/SVH-41T-P1.1/455-1319-1-ND/608888)).

Another project I've been considering is a laser cutter / engraver. I won't be able to get the power to cut very heavy material but I wonder how much I could cut with slow speeds and multiple passes.  My old Printrbot may be donating parts.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on December 26, 2016, 11:16:39 pm
So for anyone interested I assembled my anet the other day.  It took two afternoons, but some of that had to do with the fact that I stupidly used the instructional videos on the site I ordered it from instead of the ones on the included sd card.  These bad boys are getting revised faster than the vendors can keep up with.  It wasn't particularly hard, but if you want to save yourself a big headache, go ahead and take all the nuts and tape them in place on the slots in the acrylic panels to hold them in place.  I'd say 50% of my time was used up trying to get the little sobs in place.  Cable management is also an issue.  The included wraps work, but they are kind of ugly and some of the cables are waaaay too long, so you have to fold them up and manage them somehow.  I'm thinking of re-routing mine around the board so that it looks better.... perhaps I'll run them behind the board to take up some of that slack.

Overall I'm extremely impressed with the build quality for something so inexpensive.  There are a couple of head scratching design flaws, but they can be fixed easily by just printing out parts.  I would show an example print, but like an idiot I somehow managed to order 3mm filament instead of 1.75mm.  So to be continued I guess. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on December 26, 2016, 11:59:17 pm
Good to hear you got it running. So beside all the little knick-knacks you'll print is there any major projects lined up to print?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on December 27, 2016, 01:27:16 pm
Nothing major.  Third generation Camaros don't have much in the way of cup-holder options, so I'm going to design one for my car.  Hopefully if it turns out well enough I can distribute it to keep people from cutting holes in their center consoles.  There are some extra holes on the extruder carriage, so I'm going to try and design some quick-release accessories like a plotter pen and maybe a pcb mill. 

I've got a couple of arcade related ideas, but really important. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: JDFan on December 30, 2016, 12:22:44 am
Decided to take the plunge -- for $154 shipped from California, had to give this one a try - the bedsize is a bit smaller than the Anet A8 (200mmx200mmx180mm) but a good bit larger than the monoprice mini. Was going to wait for the A8 to get replenished in LA but came across this one for about the same price so decided to order rather than wait before I spent the $ on something else  :laugh2:

Now to find a good place to order some filament from (it comes with a small roll (250g) for setup but I'm sure that wont last long !) -- Note to self be sure to get 1.75mm not 3.0mm  ;D

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on December 30, 2016, 09:43:36 am
Looks like a hell of a deal to me.  I ended up spending another $10 on a spool holder like that to go with my monoprice mini.

I also picked up a little needle nose pliers & sidecutter set at Walmart for 3 or 4 bucks.  Also had a flexible scraper.  I already had this stuff, but it's nice to have a set that stays with the machine.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: JDFan on December 30, 2016, 10:59:16 am
OK - couple questions for those with a printer already -- How long does a roll of filament tend to last ? And has anyone used the monoprice filament - Is it good quality ?

Asking because Monoprice has a pretty good deal on the filament right now ($19.99 per 1Kg roll of most PLA ) and till the 31st they have a 15% off code (maker15) that makes it $16.99 a roll but the thing is if you purchase 1 or 2 rolls the shipping is about $12 but if you get 3 rolls it makes the free shipping cut off and shipping is free which means the 3rd roll only costs a couple bucks and seems like it is what I should order but will 3 1Kg rolls be too much ? :dunno

Total cost breakdown :

Quote
3 rolls @19.99 + Free shipping = $59.97 - $9 code Maker15 = $50.97 or $16.99 per roll
2 rolls @19.99 + $12.44 shipping = $52.42 - $6 code Maker15 = $46.42 or $23.21 per roll
1 roll @19.99 + $11.39 shipping = $31.38 - $3 code Maker15 = $28.38 per roll



Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: SammyWI on December 30, 2016, 11:17:42 am
How long a roll will last is pretty hard to answer because everybody is printing different things / shapes / sizes, etc.  I found a couple of places that try to answer that question:
http://www.soliforum.com/topic/1409/how-long-will-a-spool-last-how-much-can-i-print/ (http://www.soliforum.com/topic/1409/how-long-will-a-spool-last-how-much-can-i-print/)
https://www.makerbot.com/media-center/2012/02/24/a-matter-of-scales-how-much-can-you-print-with-a-single-1kg-spool (https://www.makerbot.com/media-center/2012/02/24/a-matter-of-scales-how-much-can-you-print-with-a-single-1kg-spool)

IMO, buy the three spools. If you enjoy 3d printing at all, you will end up buying a lot more than that in the long run.  Plus it's always nice to have a variety of colors to use. I have not used the Monoprice filament but it is a brand that I have heard others using and those prices are good at the 2 roll option and very good at 3 rolls. For one roll $28 is fairly expensive for basic PLA.

Now I do need to go dig up that thread on printing a Star Wars control yoke. That's been something I have wanted to do for a while but have never gotten around to.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: JDFan on December 30, 2016, 03:22:42 pm
Looks like a hell of a deal to me.  I ended up spending another $10 on a spool holder like that to go with my monoprice mini.

I also picked up a little needle nose pliers & sidecutter set at Walmart for 3 or 4 bucks.  Also had a flexible scraper.  I already had this stuff, but it's nice to have a set that stays with the machine.

Yeah - I was surprised the price had come down that much recently - they were quite a bit higher when I was looking a few months ago so was hard to not order when I came across it.(esp. since they had stock in CA rather than having to wait for shipping from China !) Completely agree about having a set of tools specifically for the printer (otherwise it can get hard to find the correct one when needed - since I tend to leave tools laying where they were last used at times  :cheers: )

IMO, buy the three spools. If you enjoy 3d printing at all, you will end up buying a lot more than that in the long run.  Plus it's always nice to have a variety of colors to use. I have not used the Monoprice filament but it is a brand that I have heard others using and those prices are good at the 2 roll option and very good at 3 rolls. For one roll $28 is fairly expensive for basic PLA.

Thanks for the response - interesting links - seems it goes a bit further than expected on a roll - but agree having the extra never hurts and I can see it becoming a matter of getting all the right colors for each project. Went ahead and ordered the 3 rolls so should have plenty to get started and play with for awhile  :cheers:

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on December 30, 2016, 07:12:08 pm
So 1.75mm pla is on the way.  You know I think that might be the thing keeping these rigs from going mainstream.  My local hardware store sells some rep-raps and such, but you can't buy filament.  They need to keep filament in stock at the hardware/electronics/hobby stores.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: JDFan on December 30, 2016, 07:41:25 pm
So 1.75mm pla is on the way.  You know I think that might be the thing keeping these rigs from going mainstream.  My local hardware store sells some rep-raps and such, but you can't buy filament.  They need to keep filament in stock at the hardware/electronics/hobby stores.

Would be nice if the Hardware stores carried it ( even nicer if they sold it by the meter/foot for a decent price so you could quickly pick up any color that you wanted for a project for a few bucks )
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on December 30, 2016, 07:54:59 pm
We actually have a few 3d print stores that popped up in the Utah area. They carry most of the main stream printers and they make and sell there own filament. They also have 3d design classes and other lessons about the printers and print ideas.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on December 30, 2016, 09:59:11 pm
So 1.75mm pla is on the way.  You know I think that might be the thing keeping these rigs from going mainstream.  My local hardware store sells some rep-raps and such, but you can't buy filament.  They need to keep filament in stock at the hardware/electronics/hobby stores.

Would be nice if the Hardware stores carried it ( even nicer if they sold it by the meter/foot for a decent price so you could quickly pick up any color that you wanted for a project for a few bucks )

Man that would be nice if you could just pull out a length and cut it off like you do rope and chain. 

I'm going to make a filament extruder eventually.  I'm hoping I can recycle plastic water bottles.  Save the planet, make cheap stuff.  :)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: JDFan on January 04, 2017, 10:18:53 pm
Printer arrived today along with the order from Monoprice with the 3 rolls of filament - Now just need to find the time to put things together. ( Busy laying tile this week - so not much free time )

Opened the box after getting home and it actually seems to be decent quality for the $154 shipped - will know more after assembly. ( noticed the price went to $209 from the same seller, when I went to check the order status yesterday - glad I purchased when I did ! )
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: knave on January 05, 2017, 12:40:03 pm
I'm hoping this thread re-motivates me. Bought a new nozzle and extruder. only found the time to install the nozzle. Lost motivation/time to finish leveling the bed and test.

Saw a interesting article that suggests that dusty filament can increase clogs. saw that some folks install gizmos to wipe off the filament as it enters the extruder. Go figure.
I'll just be happy once I start printing again.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on January 05, 2017, 12:47:00 pm
I would think printing out one of those filament guides and wrapping it in a baby wipe would clean it as you go. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: knave on January 05, 2017, 12:49:39 pm
I would think printing out one of those filament guides and wrapping it in a baby wipe would clean it as you go.

Most definitely. Thingiverse is full of designs, many use olive oil to clean and lubricate the filament.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on January 05, 2017, 04:40:53 pm
Get the butter.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: knave on January 05, 2017, 05:15:40 pm
Get the butter.

But don't tell the filament, we want an authentic reaction.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on January 05, 2017, 05:19:38 pm
(https://i.sli.mg/UuyTud.jpg)

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: SammyWI on January 05, 2017, 09:40:03 pm
I wouldn't recommend using anything that will leave a residue on the filament.  Could easily cause printing issues or clogging.  Don't leave your hotend heated up for long periods when not printing.  If your hotend has a cooling fan, leave the fan running after shutting off the hotend heater until the temp drops below about 40C.  Both of those things will help prevent clogging.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on January 10, 2017, 02:23:28 pm
Ok so I finally got my filament.  I'm running into problems.  :(

The first problem was that I couldn't get the printer to take the filament... apparently the filament guide mechanism is designed poorly, so I had to remove the fan from the extruder (which essentially disassembles the whole extruder assembly), feed it into the hot end, and reassemble.  Then I had some really bad problems with leveling... I finally got it to an acceptable level. 

Ok now for the final problem.  The printer is printing the first layer of a file perfectly, but once it needs to move up, it jumps waaaay too far up and I've essentially got silly string from then on.  Now I haven't modded it or anything, this is the stock printer with the original firmware installed and I'm trying to print from the test files on the included sd card.  Do you think the examples could be the problem?

I'll install the software and find a file later tonight, but if anyone has had experience with this I could sure use some help.... worked on it about an hour at lunch.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on January 10, 2017, 04:34:58 pm
So the sd card was corrupted, so that might be part of the problem.  I think CURA and/or the built in firmware might be the rest of the issue.  I tried some more prints and as per usual the first layer printed fine.  On the second layer it jumped up like an inch, so I'm not sure what is going on.  I used the included cura profile for my printer and I tried one of their models as well as one I converted... same problem with both. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on January 10, 2017, 04:42:12 pm
Whats the layer height set too? I usually start with .2 mm.

Sounds like the firmware might be having issues, could always flash it with the latest version.

Also does it do the same thing on the 3rd layer?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on January 10, 2017, 04:43:23 pm
Post a screen grab of your cura settings.
(the ones on the left of where the model is displayed.)

If it is the settings and not a hardware issue, it could be that the layer height is set to something crazy high.
It has separate settings for the first layer height and following layer heights.

EDIT: was posting same time as 05SRT4....we're thinking along the same lines.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on January 10, 2017, 04:59:03 pm
Only did a cursory search, but .....
http://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk2-f23/cura-print-settings-t999.html (http://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk2-f23/cura-print-settings-t999.html)
Quote
DO NOT USE CURA 2.1.X, IT DOESN'T WORK
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: SammyWI on January 10, 2017, 06:07:12 pm
I've never had the layer height jumping issue but I would not be surprised if the installed firmware was corrupted. I'm pretty sure mine was as it would not accept an auto level command and would not communicate temperatures with Octoprint.  Flashing to the Skynet firmware fixed both.  Not sure if still true but when I flashed there was no original firmware files available so a flash to Skynet was one way.

ETA: After some searching I see a lot of people say the included SD card is crap and can cause this.  Using a different card seems to fix it.  Also the filament loading is tricky but after a few times it gets pretty easy.  Straighten out the end of the filament and you'll need to get used to where that tube is that you need to hit.  I also replaced the socket head screw they used for the part you have to press on with a hex head so that my thumb has a more comfortable piece to press on.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on January 10, 2017, 08:06:15 pm
Ok, to reply. 

I'm using Cura 14.7, which is what the documentation recommends.  The layer height is 0.2mm.  Tried with a different sd card... it didn't help. I tried a rep-rap stl file of the maker bot mascot and things got weird.  First time it just set at idle and did do nothing, the next time it make noises like the printer was moving and the percentage meter went up, but nothing happened.  Then I tried two of the models I tried earlier... they are still doing the same thing.   The printer is acting weird.... like when I browse files I can hear the fan ramping up as I go through the menu.   Can Skynet be configured to not use auto level?  I need to print the sensor bracket before I buy the sensor. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on January 11, 2017, 01:12:12 am
Ok more stuff. 

I tried a different slicer, it didn't help, so I think that rules that out.  I haven't been able to do anything via a usb connection.  Cura will connect if I force the port number and the printer will reset, but then cura hangs.  I've had similar issues with other software. 

Skynet includes the stock firmware for A8, but I'm afraid to install it.  I used it in avrdude with the verify option (surprisingly avr dude can connect?) and it comes back saying some of the bytes don't match.  I checked what is supposedly an updated version and it doesn't match either (shows the exact same byte differences).  I'm just scared that I'll brick the thing because there are multiple driver boards and I'm not 100% sure which one I have. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: SammyWI on January 11, 2017, 08:41:35 am
I found this link for original firmware in one of the Facebook groups. No idea if they are correct.

http://anet3d.en.made-in-china.com/custom-detail/xmQExQndGJUQxmQExQndGJUQ/The-Firmware-Links-You-May-Need.html (http://anet3d.en.made-in-china.com/custom-detail/xmQExQndGJUQxmQExQndGJUQ/The-Firmware-Links-You-May-Need.html)

Also Skynet does not have to use autolevel. You would just ignore setting up any z offset for the sensor, set z height manually and don't use the gcode for autolevel in your slicer.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on January 11, 2017, 11:52:35 am
Yeah I've got a set of those as well.  What worries me is the fact that I can't get the bytes to match via verify with any version of the firmware.  I *think*  I dumped the firmware to a hex file for backup, but if there is any kind of strange bootloader or funny business going on it could corrupt the dump.  I've seen tutorials on how to use an uno to write directly to the serial port in case of issues after a bricked unit, but I would like to avoid that.

Did you flash yours with avrdude or arduino's toolkit?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: SammyWI on January 11, 2017, 02:32:48 pm
I flashed using what was included with Skynet, arduino I think.

What are you comparing to match bytes? Just a non programmer guess but if you are comparing the fw that came on your board wouldn't you expect the bytes to be wrong if that fw was corrupt from the factory?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on January 11, 2017, 02:46:41 pm
Well yeah that's true, but what concerns me is that it finds errors so early on... like in the first 30 bytes or so... that could be the boot loader.  I opened them up in a hex editor and they look nothing alike.  Mind you they are compiled, so a different revision would change things drastically.

I mean at this point it isn't working and I've heard very few complaints about Skynet, so I'll probably take a chance and update it tonight, I just don't want to have a gigantic project of getting things re-flashed if it doesn't work or the boot loader is corrupted, ect.

Oh and this morning just to make sure it wasn't a mechanical issue I used the position commands within the printer and the movement is dead on, down to the millimeter, so that rules one more thing out.  It's really odd, it's almost like it can't read the g-code properly, because everything else seems to work ok. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on January 11, 2017, 10:39:20 pm
Alright guys, I got it sorted.  Thanks a bunch for the help.  Part of the problem was on my end and the other part was on the printer's end. 

Ok now keep in mind that I can't see well yet, so don't make fun of me too bad.  It turns out my hotbed leads had a single strand of the braided wire touching and it was causing the sensor to go nuts.  The thing is, the crappy firmware that is included with the printer doesn't really have any status messages, and thus why some of the models I sliced myself yesterday were just hanging... the bed never read the correct temp so it just sat there heating up. 

Skynet also hang, but it hang at the "heating" message and the temp seemed off to me so I figured it out.

That still didn't explain the huge z-axis jumps though and why I couldn't connect the printer via usb in cura... that was all corrupted firmware. 

So yeah, for those that order one of these, just skip some frustration and install Skynet.  They even have a config file for the non-autolevel  version so if you are going to buy the better sensor later on like me you are still covered. 

The test cube turned out great.  No gaps, no distorted edges, ect. and keep in mind I had to pick the thing up to fix that wire and didn't re-calibrate afterwards.  I have a few issues to sort out though.  I couldn't figure out how to set the z-offset as the instructions are for the auto level sensor and some of the menu options aren't in the new firmware anymore.  So it's like .1mm off.... it still prints fine but if there is a bubble in my tape or something it drags.  Speaking of dragging... the cooling neck that goes on the fan drags really bad... I had to take it off to print.  I figure this isn't a big deal as I'm going to print a new one anyway. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: SammyWI on January 12, 2017, 08:43:15 am
Glad to hear that you got it running. You don't need to set any z offset in software. Leave it as is and adjust the nozzel to bed gap by adjusting the z switch height or the bed height. The cooling duct height is probably off because the hot end height can be installed at different heights and it may be a bit high. Be very careful if you adjust it - the threaded tube is not strong and many people break them. But they are cheap to replace. Most people print a different cooling duct but you may find that the models out there will also run too low unless you adjust the hot end or adjust the duct model. You can do plenty of printing with no cooling duct.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on January 12, 2017, 09:47:00 am
No pic = no test cube

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on January 13, 2017, 12:22:23 am
I figured somebody would say that.  I can't find the charger to my good camera.  I can take a crappy one on my phone.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on January 13, 2017, 01:49:24 am
I guess I'll just keep posting my progress in case someone else wants to takes the plunge on this particular printer and wants some tips.

So I printed out this:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1954001 (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1954001)

It replaces the stock fan duct and it fits much better. It latches on the tab on the left wall of the fan, so it won't fall off anymore.  It also sets a few mm above the hotend and just blows the air downwards, so it's far less likely to hang. 

I'm done printing for the night so I'll report back if it works well when I print the next upgrade.  I think I'll print the power supply cover next because not getting electrocuted = good.  Also it might be nice to have a switch to turn the thing off.... I currently have to unplug it. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on January 13, 2017, 01:53:47 am
Glad to hear that you got it running. You don't need to set any z offset in software. Leave it as is and adjust the nozzel to bed gap by adjusting the z switch height or the bed height. The cooling duct height is probably off because the hot end height can be installed at different heights and it may be a bit high. Be very careful if you adjust it - the threaded tube is not strong and many people break them. But they are cheap to replace. Most people print a different cooling duct but you may find that the models out there will also run too low unless you adjust the hot end or adjust the duct model. You can do plenty of printing with no cooling duct.

Well yeah and for normal printing I'll just adjust the screws on the hotbed.  The thing is I would also like to experiment with a glass bed and perhaps print out a spindle attachment so it would be nice to be able to throw some g-code in there to change the offset.  I might not even bother with auto level.... it seems to do ok as-is. 

As mentioned, the duct I printed out is about right, so that much isn't an issue at least.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on January 13, 2017, 10:30:33 pm
Glad you got it going. Having a 3d printer is 90% figuring out how to use it and making adjustments and 10% printing.

The printer I had was all about the Auto level feature but after awhile it just started causing more issues. I ended up removing the auto level Gcode and just put nuts and bolts on each corner of the bed. I rarely need to adjust anything once I get it dialed in.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on January 13, 2017, 11:26:01 pm
Heh yeah tell me about it.  I'll be spending the next day or so printing out parts to make the printer better.  The duct was an instant improvement... much smoother texture on the objects now.  I just printed out z-axis bushings to fix a flaw in the design (z-screws were too short).  Right now I'm printing out a top-mounted spindle holder since the one that came with it is basically a stick and the spool wobbles like crazy when printing (which has to screw up the precision).  Then I want to design and print some tool holders since apparently fiddling is going to be a thing any time I change anything. 

After all of that I'll be able to trust it to print with a good degree of precision. 

I still need to print a power supply cover and motherboard cover as well... I might have to design my own for that as I can't find one that I like.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: SammyWI on January 14, 2017, 09:39:27 am
..... I just printed out z-axis bushings to fix a flaw in the design (z-screws were too short).  ....

This comes up on the FB groups a lot.  If the ends of the Z axis threaded rods don't quite reach to the holes in the top piece it's almost always because coupling to the Z motor is installed wrong.  It usually comes from the factory with the coupling pushed too far down on the motor shaft, and people often push the threaded Z rod too far in the top.  Both the motor shafts and the threaded Z rods should only be inserted about 5 mm into the coupling, then the threaded rods will reach into the upper holes and the coupling is free to flex correctly.  Also the top of the threaded rods do not need to be tightly restrained.  The smooth Z rods hold the alignment, small movements of the threaded rods will not hurt anything and trying to tightly restrain them can cause binding.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on January 14, 2017, 12:31:55 pm
Nah it's a flaw in the design.  Even with the couplings raised to where there is just barely enough contact to grip onto the motor shaft and z screw the screws just barely make it into the upper holes.  I mean it's so little that if the axis were to have any kind of strain I would be afraid of them popping off.  Before I installed them the right z screw had a tendency to lay crooked and when the z axis got towards the top it squeaked horribly....I think it was rubbing on the frame.  Now it moves much more smoothly and their isn't any squeak.  The bushings I printed don't bind the screws as there is just a little bit of room. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on January 14, 2017, 10:47:45 pm
Printed out a new spool holder that mounts to the top of the unit and a power supply switch.  I think I might reprint both later on because they weren't designed real well.  I'm learning that blindly printing out stuff on thingiverse isn't always wise.  I suppose I'm going to have to download a 3d cad program and knock the rust off my old school skills. 

Oh and for pbj, because pbj:

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on January 14, 2017, 11:15:10 pm
Nice cube.

Tinker Cad (https://www.tinkercad.com/) is a great place to start. You can import stuff and make adjustments with it. Ive seen a few people on this forum that have been using it.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on January 15, 2017, 02:59:32 pm
I suppose I'm going to have to download a 3d cad program and knock the rust off my old school skills. 

Tinkercad is stupid easy if you just want to get stuff done quickly.
It has spoiled me and prevented me from moving on to a real cad program though.
So far everything I've wanted to do can be whipped out in short order using Tinkercad, so I haven't had a reason to move on.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on January 15, 2017, 03:04:46 pm
Bah!  Another day, another problem.  I was printing out a pcb cover, which is the last part I need to print and shortly after printing the bottom layer the printer throws a thermal runaway error and aborts the print.  I'm trying again, but I'm not too optimistic. 

The interwebs tell me that a drastic change in temperature will do this, but I didn't notice any change.  It certainly didn't overheat at least.  Re-checked the wiring and it looks secure and in tact.  Could my new fan duct be cooling too well?  Is there a way to stop the fan on a running print?  (Other than unplugging it of course).
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on January 15, 2017, 04:29:33 pm
Is there a way to stop the fan on a running print?  (Other than unplugging it of course).

I am not familiar with the printer you are using but on mine since I am using OctoPrint software I am able to adjust or turn off the fan mid print from my phone or PC. When connected to my PC and using simplify3d (slicer) I am also able to make the adjustments mid print.

But I doubt its because the fan is cooling it to fast. I would recommend checking the hot end and heated bed's thermistor, it may be loose or out of place or bad. Its a good idea to pick up a cheap laser temp gauge and use that to confirm the hotends actual temps.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on January 15, 2017, 04:44:28 pm
Well cura has a little status window and it has a text box.... I'm assuming I can use that to send commands, but I don't know what the command is to stop the fan.  It seems to be doing ok this time.  The only thing I did was put a big old fan on the power supply just in case and cinched up the wires to the hot end a little better as they were hanging below the fan duct. 

It's very annoying... one of those watched pot deals.... It was printing fine last time so I went in the living room to watch a movie and it crapped out on me.  Right now I'm on my computer anyway and wouldn't you know it... no errors.  I don't mind checking in occasionally, but this is a 6 hour print.    It's about halfway done, so hopefully it'll make it this time.  The solution for rapid cooling is to insulate the hotend, so I'll look into that.  And of course overheating just needs more fans, so I'll go through my junk drawers and start throwing every 12v fan I have at it. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on January 15, 2017, 07:15:31 pm
While I'm waiting for this to finish I took a look at tinkercad.  it's surprisingly robust.  The only thing I don't like about it is there doesn't seem to be any way to work on models at the vertex level or the ability to delete/add/weld vertices.  I'm old school.  I usually plop down the basic shapes and then do all of the detail work with vertices.  I want to try one or two projects with it though.  No having to install a bloated 3d modeling program is a big check in the pro box for me. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on January 15, 2017, 07:40:10 pm
I went through the included tutorials, then a few from this youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLt4JWLrDaOYmjyhE08HbNdsHMGKAmX6jG (https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLt4JWLrDaOYmjyhE08HbNdsHMGKAmX6jG)

With that, I've been able to pull off everything I can think up, except for complex curves.

The only annoying part is that every single thing you do is recorded in the file, so designs you've worked on a lot and redone parts of get so complicated that they take longer to load and sometimes get glitchy.  You can work around this by saving individual pieces as stl files, then importing them into a new design file.  Then they only show up as one shape instead of all the shapes & changes that went into making them.  Of course you can't undo or ungroup the parts that went into it.

You can also copy and paste from one design to another, which is helpful.

EDIT: BTW for some reason I can't access the drop down menu to change the snap grid size on the new Beta version (lower right corner of grid area).
         I can click on it, but the options are always hidden behind the tool panel or right edge of the screen.  Could be the 1600x900 resolution on my laptop.
         If you have the same issue, you may want to use the Legacy Design option.


Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: SammyWI on January 15, 2017, 08:48:38 pm
Is there a way to stop the fan on a running print?  (Other than unplugging it of course).
But I doubt its because the fan is cooling it to fast. I would recommend checking the hot end and heated bed's thermistor, it may be loose or out of place or bad. Its a good idea to pick up a cheap laser temp gauge and use that to confirm the hotends actual temps.

I agree that a cooling fan is very unlikely to cause a thermal runaway error.  I'd check the temp sensor wiring very carefully.  After that, some of the Skynet releases have had some bugs.  I'm still on 2.0 because it works for me and I hate to fix what's not broken.  2.3 (or 2.3.1) seems to be pretty good from what I've read but some of the in between versions have had reports of thermal runaway errors.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on January 15, 2017, 10:02:52 pm
I think it was just glitching out for some reason.  I'm currently running it via usb cable and I think when my pc gets busy it is sending odd data or something. 

The latest print turned out just fine and I checked the print every 15 min or so and there was never a fluctuation in temp more than a degree or two.  I checked the wiring the whole length, even removing the covering and I couldn't find any kinks or breaks. 

Anyway my pcb cover turned out great.  As per usual there was a design flaw in the author's design.... the box hit the right bolt on the z limit switch, pushing it down, so I had to take it off and dremel out a small hole.  It looks nice and tidy though.... I'm only hoping the vent holes are enough to keep it cool.  I'll probably mount a pair of fans to the outside just in case. 

Btw.... I've been using painter's tape on the bed because the included stuff sucked and I have a real hard time removing some prints.  My tape is ruined every two or three jobs.  I was thinking maybe contact paper or something.  Are there any pre-made covers out there that actually work?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on January 15, 2017, 10:33:30 pm
As annoying as peeling tape of every other print its been the best for me. I just get the really thick cuts so I only need to do a few strips. I can go 4-5 prints before changing it out.

They had flexible sheets you can buy, I used one for a bit but eventual stopped when then 1st layer wouldn't stick anymore.

You can check them out here.

http://www.printinz.com/printinz-3d-printer-plates/ (http://www.printinz.com/printinz-3d-printer-plates/)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: SammyWI on January 16, 2017, 10:37:54 am
First layer sticking (and later releasing) is one of the biggest issues. I've used a lot of surfaces and I have found PEI to be the best so far with PLA or PETG. You can get PEI kits from Amazon or EBay that have a 30 mil sheet plus separate adhesive sold for 3d printing. I personally like 3 mil PEI tape from C S Hyde. Lasts for many prints with just a quick alcohol wipe before each print. Eventually gets beat up to need replacing. I have not yet tried the specialty print surfaces like Printz but the reports seem to be no better than PEI at higher cost.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on January 16, 2017, 12:15:51 pm
I've easily done two dozen prints on my current sheet of PEI and have no plans of changing it anytime soon.

I did have an issue once where it turned white and was ever so slightly puffed where the last part was stuck to it.
I do not know if it was that I was experimenting with higher temperatures, that I stretched it slightly while removing the part, or what.
It's just enough that if I print a big flat part face down and you hold it up to the light at just the right angle, you can see the outline.
This has only happened once and I'm still using the same sheet.  Just been too lazy to clean all the adhesive off and I haven't needed to print anything big and flat that needs to have a perfect shiny smooth surface.  Discussion here if interested: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,151479.msg1597116.html#msg1597116 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,151479.msg1597116.html#msg1597116)

Other than that once instance, I pretty much consider PEI to be the permanent bed and not a consumable.


Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on January 16, 2017, 01:23:27 pm
Well the smooth surface is one of my concerns.  Right now it is quite noticeable that I'm printing on tape because you can see the lines.  With what I'm printing right now it doesn't really matter, but when I start printing stuff out for my car it would be nice to have a smooth surface, or at least a uniform one. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on January 18, 2017, 01:45:19 am
I saw a youtube video where someone used a butane mini torch to smooth pla prints.... I might try it.  Anyway, I figured out the z-offset.  You just want to throw a G92 in your starting g-code. 

Let's say you want to print on some glass and it's 10mm thick.... you would add the g-code:
G92 Z-10

That tells the printer that the current z-position is -10, so before printing it's going to move up 10mm to get to 0, which will be on top of the glass. 

So I need to read up on g-code as my 3d modeling training was more on the artistic side than the industrial. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on January 24, 2017, 10:23:10 pm
when I start printing stuff out for my car it would be nice to have a smooth surface, or at least a uniform one.

When I first got my printer I thought I could pull off a nice smooth surface on the side facing the print surface.
I have since given up.  I can get it pretty smooth, but you can still see the path the printer took.
Getting something finished looking enough for a car interior without finishing in some other way is a pretty tall order.

When I had an 83 TransAm, I would cut panels out of textured ABS, clamp a guide across the corners and file the surface of the corners down until they looked like the factory panels.  If your Camaro interior looks the same, you'll understand what I mean.


So make anything cooler than a cube yet?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on January 24, 2017, 10:43:57 pm
Well the idea was to cook each flat side on a hot plate for a second or two to melt everything flat and maybe use a torch for curves, but I think I'll experiment on reject parts first.  If all else fails spraying it with some filler primer and painting isn't a big deal. 

In previous cup holders I've used the excess of a midway 27" crt bezel from happ.  The stuff is a dead ringer for the plastic texture on the center console, but I think I'm about out of it. 

I've printed a bunch of stuff, but not much for fun yet.  I printed out a cover for the pcb and some bushings for the Z axis. I designed a couple of tool holders for the included kit that snap to the top.  I also printed off a spool holder that mounts to the top from thingiverse, but it kind of sucks so I might make a new one.  Other than that, I printed the Nintendo logo (small test size for a HUGE sign) and I made a little mounting box for a wifi extender that doesn't get good service unless I mount it in the window. 

I saw a Shao Kahn model from mk9 on thingiverse... I want to print that and paint it.  I had this idea to print out control panels for candy cab buttons/sticks.  I did some tests and with a 100% solid print it's probably stronger than most plastic madcatz sticks. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on January 30, 2017, 09:23:31 pm
Yeah so I've been experimenting a little.

I found a plotter attachment on thingiverse for the i3 in which you had to remove the cooling fan.  I modified it so that it bolts behind the fan instead.  Sorry I should have taken more pics, but here is the first test before I dialed all the settings in.  As of now it has the accuracy of a black and white printer for the most part.  I'm still trying to keep the pen from dragging when it first starts printing, but other than that, it works.  The key to doing this is to save an additional machine profile in cura and change all the settings for the plotter.  Then switching back and forth is as easy as loading profiles. 

The next step is to modify the plate to make it a universal mount.  A dremel extension and vinyl cutting drag knife can work via the same principal for 2d cutting. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on January 31, 2017, 07:30:29 am
Some cool things done with a drawing machine:  http://youtu.be/8SJ8TAvQJR0
(contains some profanity)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on January 31, 2017, 03:29:32 pm
I saw that one.  I guess our youtube suggestions are similar.  ;)

The more I play with this printer the more I think it could probably handle light-duty cnc milling.  The only weak point is the y axis portion of the frame and as it's only two screw rods attached to flat lexan, it could be modified and made sturdy. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on February 02, 2017, 09:03:17 pm
So I thought I would give a glass plate a try.  Thus far glass sucks.  I'll try to tweak the settings one more time tomorrow, but even with a bunch of glue down on the bed it's just sliding all over the place.  So I guess I'll try some of the ready made sheets you guys suggested as the parts are sticking to blue tape so bad that I fear I'm going to warp the bed removing prints.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on February 02, 2017, 09:57:41 pm
Bah! 

Never mind, the glass is actually better, I just goofed a bit of g-code.  Printed out the little makerbot keychain and he turned out pretty good.  You can make out most of his buttons and stuff, so I call that a success.  I need to lay off the glue stick a little next time, but I actually managed to get a flat edge on the bottom without any path lines.  He pulled off the glass a lot better than the tape, so assuming I can get this glue stick ratio down I think I'll stick with glass. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on October 17, 2017, 03:37:34 pm
I wuv Gummi Bears!

So in restrospect, Howard, would you buy this printer again? I'm jonesing to get one, and I found a good price on this model....
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on October 17, 2017, 10:18:37 pm
Yeah it's a pretty good printer so long as you understand that you'll be fiddling with it.  Like I kept getting thermal overruns recently... the solution was to zip-tie a set of wires down because the vibrations were wiggling the thermal sensor loose.  I've printed most of the hardware for my world of Nintendo cab with it and it has held up well. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on October 17, 2017, 10:34:19 pm
Yeah it's a pretty good printer so long as you understand that you'll be fiddling with it.  Like I kept getting thermal overruns recently... the solution was to zip-tie a set of wires down because the vibrations were wiggling the thermal sensor loose.  I've printed most of the hardware for my world of Nintendo cab with it and it has held up well.

What’s the print quality?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on October 17, 2017, 11:14:24 pm
On par with a mid-range printer.  You can see the layers of the print, but accuracy and definition are pretty good.  Squirt some filler primer and you are ready for paint. 

My phone seems to be possessed tonight but as soon as it behaves I'll post a pic of something I printed recently.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on October 17, 2017, 11:20:06 pm
Here we go..... Note that I didn't prime this one I just dry brushed some paint over. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on October 17, 2017, 11:24:38 pm
Here we go..... Note that I didn't prime this one I just dry brushed some paint over.

Looks good. What upgrades did you do? Power supply?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on October 17, 2017, 11:58:10 pm
Not a lot really.  I made a couple of tool holders since you need to keep all the hex wrenches and stuff it comes with for maintenance.  You also need to throw out the fan duct it comes with and print out a half circle one.  I printed a spool holder that sits on top of the unit to save space, but I think I want to re-design it a bit as I bumped into it and cracked it a bit.  I also printed a cover for the Arduino as it just sits there.  If you decide to get one I have links.  ;)

In terms of the power supply, it would aid in heating the bed faster (takes about 5 min to heat up) but it seems to be optional. 

There are a few things that aren't in the instructions that you need to do as well, like isolate the power wires and sensor wires to the heat bed and zip-tie them in place, ect.  I've learned that from half a year of trial and error. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on October 18, 2017, 02:18:22 am
Honestly seeing some of your guys prints made with this printer are comparable to my 700$ one. I think once you get the settings dialed in the quality is really good.

And I feel we probably spent the same amount of time testing and tinkering.

I ordered a couple rolls of Black PLA from AMZ3d (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BZ5ND8O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for 16 bucks Prime free shipping. For the Price the filament print really well.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on October 18, 2017, 03:22:40 am
Not my work but a lad at work brought this into work to show us the other day:

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171018/528b12a194f58731d2925fdeaa82ab62.jpg)

He had printed it on his new 3D printer, Thought it was pretty damn good!

I must admit i kind of fancy getting one to play with but will have to wait till the new year I think.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: thomas_surles on October 18, 2017, 10:00:32 am
Someone print me up some display stands for my handhelds
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2071731 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2071731)
I has monies
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on October 18, 2017, 11:12:01 am
Someone print me up some display stands for my handhelds
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2071731 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2071731)
I has monies

Sent you a PM
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on October 18, 2017, 04:08:45 pm
Ok, I took the plunge.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on October 18, 2017, 05:13:37 pm
 :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on October 18, 2017, 05:20:07 pm
My latest print:

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=363026;image)

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=363028;image)

17 hours or so on my $200 TEVO Tarantula
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on October 18, 2017, 06:29:16 pm
I moved my printers out to the garage.


(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171018/8f29574eaee5c39f4167bc4afb09a33d.jpg)

Finishing up parts for the PVC cock pit.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171018/280dee50131adf060a712bcb80d14090.jpg)

Almost done with Thomas's docks

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171018/3f905d2279219c529a9e935677102b19.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171018/e54f4cd470b16278464b26ff08a70205.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Loafmeister on October 24, 2017, 03:24:12 pm
I backed the CUBIBOT kickstarter, hope I don't regret it and may be joining you guys in this thread in a few months (plus the usual kickstarter delay  ::))

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/99671519/cubibot-the-new-standard-of-modern-consumer-3d-pri?ref=nav_search (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/99671519/cubibot-the-new-standard-of-modern-consumer-3d-pri?ref=nav_search)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on October 24, 2017, 03:42:32 pm
Ive spent the last week researching and toying with the idea of getting a 3D printer.

Ive decided ime going to take the plunge in the new year and buy one to play with!

Think ime going to get a Creality CR10 mini.
They seem pretty good for the money.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on October 24, 2017, 04:00:34 pm
I backed the CUBIBOT kickstarter, hope I don't regret it and may be joining you guys in this thread in a few months (plus the usual kickstarter delay  ::))

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/99671519/cubibot-the-new-standard-of-modern-consumer-3d-pri?ref=nav_search (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/99671519/cubibot-the-new-standard-of-modern-consumer-3d-pri?ref=nav_search)

I looked at that, but I wanted something a bit more robust. Let us know how it goes.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on October 24, 2017, 04:04:52 pm
I backed the CUBIBOT kickstarter, hope I don't regret it and may be joining you guys in this thread in a few months (plus the usual kickstarter delay  ::))

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/99671519/cubibot-the-new-standard-of-modern-consumer-3d-pri?ref=nav_search (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/99671519/cubibot-the-new-standard-of-modern-consumer-3d-pri?ref=nav_search)

I looked at that, but I wanted something a bit more robust. Let us know how it goes.

Yeah 5x5x5 is kinda small, but it has nice features at that price point.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Mike A on October 24, 2017, 04:18:02 pm
5x5x5 is really small considering it is measured in vapor units. Kickstarter. pfffft.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Loafmeister on October 24, 2017, 04:20:29 pm
I agree but I Can always crazy glue eheh
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on October 24, 2017, 04:50:59 pm
I agree but I Can always crazy glue eheh

Like I said, keep us posted.

My kit is somewhere on the waves, out in the majestic Pacific....
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on October 24, 2017, 07:16:49 pm
Hey instead of putting money into kickstarter why just send it to me instead?  You'll still get absolutely nothing in return, but at least I'll donate it to a charity or something.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Loafmeister on October 25, 2017, 02:54:02 am
Hey instead of putting money into kickstarter why just send it to me instead?  You'll still get absolutely nothing in return, but at least I'll donate it to a charity or something.

I admit it’s a chance.  In saying that Kickstarter has been good to me.  I kickstarted the basslet and because the shipping company lost track of all Canadian orders, they felt compelled to recall the first order and send us another.  Only thing, a bunch of us still got the original order, so two for the price of one.  Wonderful little device, brought me back to the days when it was cool to just sit and listen to full albums and relax.  It’s quite immersive if a bit clunky to use because it’s not wireless
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Mike A on October 25, 2017, 09:47:15 am
You paid actual money for the basslet?
Title: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on October 25, 2017, 10:36:49 am
I had to Google what that was. Knowing what it is, I’d strap it to my nuts and listen to some late 80s rap. The orgasims would be epic.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on October 25, 2017, 11:23:42 am
I had to Google what that was. Knowing what it is, I’d strap it to my nuts and listen to some late 80s rap. The organisms would be epic.

Organisms!? ROFL!!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Mike A on October 25, 2017, 11:28:43 am
That's the only use for it that makes sense.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on October 25, 2017, 07:49:06 pm
Anyway......

Yots when your printer arrives I've got a list of stuff you need to print.  Some of it can wait, but you need a new fan duct and a power switch housing asap.  You might want to go ahead and buy/salvage a standard computer cord plug and a small on/off switch.  (I pulled mine from a broken pc power supply).  For some unknown reason the a8's don't have a guard over the ac voltage lines, nor is there a power switch.  So you need to print a guard with a switch and plug on it to make everything nice and tidy.  I think it's like a 20-30 minute print so It's a good thing to start with anyway.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on October 25, 2017, 09:44:27 pm
Anyway......

Yots when your printer arrives I've got a list of stuff you need to print.  Some of it can wait, but you need a new fan duct and a power switch housing asap.  You might want to go ahead and buy/salvage a standard computer cord plug and a small on/off switch.  (I pulled mine from a broken pc power supply).  For some unknown reason the a8's don't have a guard over the ac voltage lines, nor is there a power switch.  So you need to print a guard with a switch and plug on it to make everything nice and tidy.  I think it's like a 20-30 minute print so It's a good thing to start with anyway.

I have a list of stuff my buddy Arcadenut is printing me to stabilize it. I want to have it on hand when I assemble.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on October 26, 2017, 01:33:11 am
So I don't know if I jinxed myself or what, but my power supply burnt out an hour ago.  I think the mosfet inside it blew but the power supplies are so cheap it probably isn't worth it to buy parts.  I can't complain too much as I've been running the poor thing for a year now.  I was running it pretty hard.... I'm printing the Nintendo sign for my world of Nintendo cabinet and it's been printing for about 15-20 hours non-stop. 

I'll have to get out my bench power supply tomorrow and make sure the boards didn't fry, but they should be ok as I did a visual inspection and the damage seems to be localized to the power supply itself. 

The one it comes with is 20 amps and doesn't have a fan.  They have one on amazon right now that is 30 amps with a fan included, which might provide a bit of insurance.  I might get some external mosfets to go with it since I have to re-wire anyway.  Honestly though they don't seem to be needed.  The main board hasn't even gotten a little warm since I bought the thing. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on October 26, 2017, 09:16:05 am
So I don't know if I jinxed myself or what, but my power supply burnt out an hour ago.  I think the mosfet inside it blew but the power supplies are so cheap it probably isn't worth it to buy parts.  I can't complain too much as I've been running the poor thing for a year now.  I was running it pretty hard.... I'm printing the Nintendo sign for my world of Nintendo cabinet and it's been printing for about 15-20 hours non-stop. 

I'll have to get out my bench power supply tomorrow and make sure the boards didn't fry, but they should be ok as I did a visual inspection and the damage seems to be localized to the power supply itself. 

The one it comes with is 20 amps and doesn't have a fan.  They have one on amazon right now that is 30 amps with a fan included, which might provide a bit of insurance.  I might get some external mosfets to go with it since I have to re-wire anyway.  Honestly though they don't seem to be needed.  The main board hasn't even gotten a little warm since I bought the thing.

I’m going to get the external MOSFET for the bed. Did you change out the power connectors?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on October 26, 2017, 12:32:47 pm
For the board?  No I still have the stock ones in place.  I think a lot of those melted connector concerns come from people not making sure the wires are properly connected because the main board, even with 20 amps running through it, it doesn't really get warm.

Then again I thought the power supply was ok as well. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on October 26, 2017, 12:52:01 pm
Id like to see what you guys have been designing, so far ill ive seen is downloaded stuff.

Ive been getting better in Fusion 360, (It is free for hobbyist)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on October 26, 2017, 12:58:53 pm
So far I've been downloading stuff...

I'm trying to learn tinkercad but it's kind of a pain...   :badmood:  maybe I'll have better luck with Fusion 360
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on October 26, 2017, 12:59:37 pm
I ordered the MOSFETs, the power connectors, and some IEC power switches this morning. Can’t wait for the damn thing to get here.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on October 26, 2017, 01:44:46 pm
So far I've been downloading stuff...

I'm trying to learn tinkercad but it's kind of a pain...   :badmood:  maybe I'll have better luck with Fusion 360

I loved tinker cad but I think I maxed out my level on it. Fusion took a bunch or projects to get used to, I think I have about 4% of its capabilities down. Being able to import a canvas to copy off of is cool, make building up logos way easier.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on October 26, 2017, 01:46:58 pm
I just started with Tinkercad. Good stuff. Got Fusion installed.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on October 26, 2017, 02:03:04 pm
I just started with Tinkercad. Good stuff. Got Fusion installed.

For me personally, using Tinkercad was a mistake.
It's so easy and I've been able to make everything I've wanted with it. 
So much so that I never moved on to learning "real" 3D design software.
My purpose for buying a cheap little 3D printer was to motivate me to learn CAD software.  :lol


Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on October 26, 2017, 02:12:11 pm
Yeah spending a few hours in Fusion when I knew I could make the same thing in tinker-cad in a few minutes was the hardest part. :banghead:

I still have to talk myself out of using Tinker Cad just so I can get better in fusion.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on October 26, 2017, 02:22:41 pm
Tinkercad is great for making functional parts, but not for making art, toys, or anything with compound curves.  So far that's all I've been using, but so far I've mostly been making hinges or project boxes, ect.  I saw a Johnny 5 R/C shell on thingiverse that I'm thinking of doing next, it isn't fully articulated, so I might brush up on my 3dsmax skills by adding full articulation to it. 

On the burnt out power supply front, I hooked it up to the bench supply and everything appears to be ok, so yeah, it was just the shoddy power supply.  So looking at it the transformer appears to have blown or something close to it.... I didn't even know that could happen.  That makes me think it was just defective, but it's been nearly a year, so I doubt its worth it to try and get my money back.

I might pull an old pc power supply to run it while the new one comes in... just so I can get this damn sign finished.  It's coming along nicely, but the slowness of printing something this big is killing me.  It takes approx. 2 hours per letter (1 hour per half of the shell) and it crapped out on the bottom half of the "d" in Nintendo.  So I've got about 10 hours of printing left plus however long it'll take to print the loop around the "Nintendo"  That's really the only thing that kills me about 3d printing, the speed.... it's just too damn slow. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on October 26, 2017, 02:44:08 pm
How big are the pieces you’re printing?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on October 26, 2017, 02:48:48 pm
I printed a 78mm cube, 10% infill, took 8 hours...
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on October 26, 2017, 02:55:45 pm
Wow. Why so long?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on October 26, 2017, 02:59:20 pm
Wow. Why so long?

That's just how long?   :dunno

The T-800 skull I just did took about 17.5 hours, 15% infill.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on October 26, 2017, 03:05:56 pm
All ya gotta do is

(https://i.makeagif.com/media/11-03-2014/MW73rc.gif)[/URL]
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on October 26, 2017, 03:36:26 pm
Until something fouls up 15 hours into a 17.5 hour print... that'll make you want to  :banghead: :banghead: :censored:
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Mike A on October 26, 2017, 03:38:34 pm
...or your house burns down.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on October 26, 2017, 04:19:43 pm
^^Both of those ^^

You can speed up prints by doing less infill and adjusting the layer density and move speed, but stuff just takes a long time in general and fiddling with those settings results in a lower quality print.  It's basically slow because you have to print slow enough for the plastic to squirt out and harden before moving on to the next area.  To quote Scotty:  "I CAN'NA CHANGE THE LAWS OF PHYSICS!"

And yeah, you don't have to sit there and stare at the thing, but you need to be in the general vicinity of your printer while it's printing incase the print de-laminates from the hotbed or something goes boom, like what happened to me, ect.  They are far too dangerous to leave them unattended.  It's such a time sink I've seen some people setup an array of webcams so they can step out for a few and still check on things.  I'm thinking of building a metal box to put mine in which would help prevent a fire if something went wrong.  Hmm..... I wonder if the printer would still operate in a vacuum.... that would eliminate the fire risk. 

Actually the pieces I'm doing are pretty small.  Each letter is around 2 inches with 10mm height and they are hollow so I can install red plastic and back-light the whole thing.  One of the main things slowing this print down is I'm using the method where CURA can convert a jpg into a 3d height map, which gives the printer hundreds of points instead of smooth path.  It works really well for what I'm trying to do though and I'll post a step-by-step once I'm done.  If you are crafty about how to set things up and can do a bit of math, you can use this technique to make signs and project boxes and stuff without ever having to crack open the 3d software. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on October 26, 2017, 11:14:29 pm
So I ordered a new 30 amp power supply and a mosfet for the hotbed.  Ebay sellers are frikkin scalping these things.  From china the mosfet is like 3 or 4 bucks.. but you'll have to wait 2 or 3 months for it to get here.  The US sellers are selling the exact same thing...they don't even bother to use different pics, only the price is around 10 bucks. 

For the record an ATX supply won't work unless it's an older model.  I tried to use one just to finish up my print but even with a few rails twisted together it kept triggering the overload protection when the hotbed kicked in and the whole psu shut down.  My benchtop faired better as it's made from a really old psu, but I know the wires aren't up to the task so I'll just have to be patient. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on October 26, 2017, 11:41:17 pm
Found a link I'm interested in.... tri-color a8's baby!

! No longer available (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WpmzboU2dKA#)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on October 26, 2017, 11:50:53 pm
Found a link I'm interested in.... tri-color a8's baby!

! No longer available (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WpmzboU2dKA#)

Nice! I can’t wait for the damn thing to show up so I can start picking your guys his brains even more.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on October 26, 2017, 11:54:43 pm
So I ordered a new 30 amp power supply and a mosfet for the hotbed.  Ebay sellers are frikkin scalping these things.  From china the mosfet is like 3 or 4 bucks.. but you'll have to wait 2 or 3 months for it to get here.  The US sellers are selling the exact same thing...they don't even bother to use different pics, only the price is around 10 bucks. 

For the record an ATX supply won't work unless it's an older model.  I tried to use one just to finish up my print but even with a few rails twisted together it kept triggering the overload protection when the hotbed kicked in and the whole psu shut down.  My benchtop faired better as it's made from a really old psu, but I know the wires aren't up to the task so I'll just have to be patient.

I paid 16.99 for a two pack MOSFET set. I’m not planning to run one for the nozzle, but I’d like to have a second one on hand just in case.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on October 26, 2017, 11:55:01 pm
Do any of you guys have that cable chain on yours for the wiring?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on October 27, 2017, 12:15:16 am
I didn't find it necessary.  The wires don't bind in any way and those chains add a lot of weight that could effect the nozzle.  You might want to get some of those mesh wire organizers though as the stuff it comes with is pretty ugly.  Since I'll have it apart for a while anyway I'm currently researching any upgrades that have come out since I built mine.  If I run across anything interesting I'll post a link. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on October 27, 2017, 12:23:21 am
I did buy the wire mesh, but it’s on an even slower ---smurfing--- boat. Estimated delivery, December 1.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on October 27, 2017, 12:25:14 am
I did order these... I read it helps with the noise level on the machine.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F172604171126
Title: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on October 27, 2017, 12:33:15 am
For the board?  No I still have the stock ones in place.  I think a lot of those melted connector concerns come from people not making sure the wires are properly connected because the main board, even with 20 amps running through it, it doesn't really get warm.

Then again I thought the power supply was ok as well.

If you want to swap the power connectors, PM me your mailing address. I bought a lot of 20 20Amp rated ones and only need a few. I’ll send you some.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Loafmeister on October 27, 2017, 10:42:35 am
You paid actual money for the basslet?

Yep, it's excellent at what it does.  You try it?

Everyone else on the 3d printer: you're scaring me with this talk of setting webcams and potential fire issues. How the heck did these pass regulations if they are such fire hazards?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on October 27, 2017, 11:13:51 am
Anything can blow up if you dont follow instructions.

Like the 2 printers I have, most if not all 3d printers are equipped with sensors which will catch if the hotend or heated bed start to over heat. If the Heat sensor (thermistor) dies or goes bad the system will stop heating and shut everything down.

Most issues ive seen is shotty / cheap PSU's, or the end user crimped some wires wrong.

I would say these are as dangerous as EZ bake ovens, mess up and you get burned. But do it right and you'll get some good tasting muffins.

I installed OctoPrint (Web Cams) on mine simply because I hated hearing the thing all night. I moved both of them to my garage. I can now see and manage my printers from my PC and cell phone, anywhere anytime. I get alert text messages if anything goes wrong (which is very rare). And its nice to give purpose to all these RasberryPi's collecting dust.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on October 27, 2017, 12:20:02 pm
Anything can blow up if you dont follow instructions.

Like the 2 printers I have, most if not all 3d printers are equipped with sensors which will catch if the hotend or heated bed start to over heat. If the Heat sensor (thermistor) dies or goes bad the system will stop heating and shut everything down.

Most issues ive seen is shotty / cheap PSU's, or the end user crimped some wires wrong.

I would say these are as dangerous as EZ bake ovens, mess up and you get burned. But do it right and you'll get some good tasting muffins.

I installed OctoPrint (Web Cams) on mine simply because I hated hearing the thing all night. I moved both of them to my garage. I can now see and manage my printers from my PC and cell phone, anywhere anytime. I get alert text messages if anything goes wrong (which is very rare). And its nice to give purpose to all these RasberryPi's collecting dust.

Tell me more about this ... OctoPrint...
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on October 27, 2017, 12:58:43 pm
With respect... nope, ALL 3d printers are extremely dangerous to leave unattended.  Anything with a heat source shouldn't be left on while you are gone because heat can lead to fire... that's just common sense.  You don't leave the oven on while you are away do you?  How about your soldering iron?  Yeah it's that dumb to just walk away from something that is hot enough to melt plastic. Thermal runaway protection is not 100 percent reliable and if you are relying on it you are literally playing with fire as they only monitor the internal temps of the hotend and heatbed and now any fires on the bed itself from heating contaminated plastic or the psu.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on October 27, 2017, 01:26:58 pm
Tell me more about this ... OctoPrint...

Download HERE (http://octoprint.org/download)

Easy to setup, only thing you need to edit is the WiFi settings, just add your WiFi name and password. Once all setup get the IP address of the PI and plug that into your browser (PC, mobile, anything connecting to that wifi)

You can setup access for outside your network but that involves some IT networking knowledge.

Plug the PI USB into your printer (Assuming that yours will have one) someone can confirm. I tapped my PI power from the PSU provided on the printers.

On my Printrbot I used the Pi Camera module, the quality is fine. On the Folger Tech FT5 I am using a Logitech C920 which works great when it stops trying to focus.

Quality lowered for gif:
(https://imgur.com/rlJyku7.gif)(https://s19.postimg.org/467d498bn/1027171030a.jpg)


Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on October 27, 2017, 01:40:04 pm
With respect... nope, ALL 3d printers are extremely dangerous to leave unattended.  Anything with a heat source shouldn't be left on while you are gone because heat can lead to fire... that's just common sense.  You don't leave the oven on while you are away do you?  How about your soldering iron?  Yeah it's that dumb to just walk away from something that is hot enough to melt plastic. Thermal runaway protection is not 100 percent reliable and if you are relying on it you are literally playing with fire as they only monitor the internal temps of the hotend and heatbed and now any fires on the bed itself from heating contaminated plastic or the psu.

I do agree that anything hitting 400 degrees should be watched, I guess I lost concern after 3 years of printing with no issues.
I should probably start looking at a all metal container or something, as always something bad is bound to happen.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on October 27, 2017, 02:08:15 pm
3d printer is the one thing people are surprised I don't have yet.
but figuring out which one to get  :dizzy:

I do like the looks of this one and it's features.
https://www.amazon.com/Geeetech-Rostock-Triple-color-Filament-Diameter/dp/B072PZKSVT/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1509125450&sr=8-8&keywords=geeetech+rostock (https://www.amazon.com/Geeetech-Rostock-Triple-color-Filament-Diameter/dp/B072PZKSVT/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1509125450&sr=8-8&keywords=geeetech+rostock)

I want a kit so I can build it and it's got color mixing!
which i'm sure will require fiddling to work right but i like tinkering.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on October 27, 2017, 02:50:02 pm
That's supposed to be a good printer but keep in mind you are literally paying an extra 250 bucks just to print in three colors.  You might want to buy one that is mono color that can be upgraded at a later date.  I only say that because 3d printing isn't for everyone... it's quite tedious to make what you want and depending upon your time schedule you might discover that it isn't for you. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on October 27, 2017, 02:58:33 pm
That's supposed to be a good printer but keep in mind you are literally paying an extra 250 bucks just to print in three colors.  You might want to buy one that is mono color that can be upgraded at a later date.  I only say that because 3d printing isn't for everyone... it's quite tedious to make what you want and depending upon your time schedule you might discover that it isn't for you.

that thought had occurred to me also.
I may end up just printing a bunch of models I found online then letting it collect dust.
Or may learn to actually create something new on it or copy the stupid little plastic parts that occasionally break on my 20yr old car cause 20yr old interior replacement parts off a parts car are still 20yrs old. :)

I definitely want a kit so i can put it together.
I know the best way for me to learn how one actually operates is to assemble as much of it myself.

this is probably what i'm looking for then.
https://www.amazon.com/ALUNAR-Desktop-Printer-Accuracy-Assembly/dp/B018XJ3E02?tag=affordable3dprinters-20 (https://www.amazon.com/ALUNAR-Desktop-Printer-Accuracy-Assembly/dp/B018XJ3E02?tag=affordable3dprinters-20)

kit form and inexpensive.
still will have to wait until tax return season.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on October 27, 2017, 03:53:00 pm
Any of you dorks played around with the wood fiber filaments?  That perked my interest.

Title: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on October 27, 2017, 03:57:17 pm
Any of you dorks played around with the wood fiber filaments?  That perked my interest.

The groot I posted earlier was done with wood filament.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on October 27, 2017, 04:39:11 pm
Any of you dorks played around with the wood fiber filaments?  That perked my interest.

That's next on my list to buy.  Supposedly will even take stain.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Slippyblade on October 27, 2017, 04:48:23 pm
I've seen some prints with the wood filaments.  Yes, it takes stain pretty well, though it's recommended that you scuff it up a little before hand.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on October 27, 2017, 05:27:01 pm
Any of you dorks played around with the wood fiber filaments?  That perked my interest.

Ive, made a few boxes with the wood filament, smells like actual burning wood when you print. Id like to do some models, the Groot Titch shared came out really good.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on October 27, 2017, 08:56:59 pm
I want to try the metal filaments and the ninjaflex.  Hope Santa brings me some filament this Xmas.  ;)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on October 27, 2017, 10:04:14 pm
I had to buy an upgraded extruder in order to use Ninja Flex, the slightest gap would cause the filament to bend.
If you do get metal, carbon fiber or any abrasive filament remember to stock on on nozzles, its like running sandpaper filament through.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on October 28, 2017, 02:45:41 am
Yeah that's not a big deal though... I think I saw one site selling 5 nozzles for 5 bucks or some ridiculously low price like that.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: thomas_surles on October 28, 2017, 07:00:52 pm
Got these in the mail today. Thanks again 05SRT4 they look great.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on October 28, 2017, 07:14:25 pm
Are those colored items one piece or two?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: thomas_surles on October 28, 2017, 07:27:53 pm
Are those colored items one piece or two?
One i think
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on October 29, 2017, 05:46:49 am
Are those colored items one piece or two?

Actually they are 2, I wanted the text to print out clear so I did a small strip printed facing up with the text on it, made painting easier also. Then just used some CA glue.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: thomas_surles on October 29, 2017, 07:29:04 am
Are those colored items one piece or two?

Actually they are 2, I wanted the text to print out clear so I did a small strip printed facing up with the text on it, made painting easier also. Then just used some CA glue.
Oh thats cool. I couldnt tell. Im new to 3d prints. Thats the first ones ive ever held.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on October 29, 2017, 01:10:34 pm
I've got to do a set once my printer is back up.  I'm thinking of doing stands or hooks for some of the gamepads as well.  N64 controllers and Xbox Dukes in particular are a giant pain to display because they take up so much room. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: thomas_surles on October 29, 2017, 01:37:38 pm
I've got to do a set once my printer is back up.  I'm thinking of doing stands or hooks for some of the gamepads as well.  N64 controllers and Xbox Dukes in particular are a giant pain to display because they take up so much room.
I considerd doing a controller display but i have way too many consoles and not a lot of room
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on October 29, 2017, 05:10:10 pm
I've got that back wall on the WON cabinet.  I haven't decided yet if I'm gonna display carts or controllers.  The Nintendo consoles have more carts and the sega ones more controllers. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on October 31, 2017, 10:48:36 am
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/313fcef6d6ab59037fe5326bf65e8258.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on October 31, 2017, 10:54:30 am
3D printed some teef for my pumpkin.  Wife thinks it's creepy.  Mission accomplished!

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=363331;image)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on October 31, 2017, 10:59:07 am
3D printed some teef for my pumpkin.  Wife thinks it's creepy.  Mission accomplished!

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=363331;image)

I saw that pic you sent me, that’s a cool idea!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on October 31, 2017, 11:04:22 am
Was super easy to do, too.  Heated up pieces of paperclips with a candle and jammed them into the bottom of the teeth and then stick the teeth in pumpkin.

Printed the teeth with a brim so they would stick to the bed. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on October 31, 2017, 01:26:30 pm
Cool beans man. 

My 30 amp power supply came in yesterday and I went ahead and printed the "d" and "o" even though the mofset hadn't arrived yet.  Considering the low cost, it might be a worthwhile upgrade to the anet/prusa printers.  I had it running about 3 hours non-stop and the power supply didn't even get warm to the touch.  I'm sure the fan helped, but regardless the whole unit just feels a bit safer now. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 01, 2017, 08:17:27 pm
So I was gonna post a picture of this today when I got home from work...

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171102/7a902218bc3e97186fe80dc54edd03c2.jpg)

But when I got home from work, this was here...

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171102/e14e4de562a042e0c065a0258b14191e.jpg)

Which means I’m...

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171102/45359af07c11cd3d2272c4dbe631fb45.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on November 01, 2017, 09:44:57 pm
Could probably make some decent money printing up bump stocks for $2 and selling them for $50 at gun shows...

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on November 01, 2017, 11:26:20 pm
Sure if you can sleep at night with all that blood on your hands.  When the NRA even agrees that a gun product should be outlawed it's pretty bad. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: RandyT on November 02, 2017, 02:54:05 pm
Sure if you can sleep at night with all that blood on your hands.  When the NRA even agrees that a gun product should be outlawed it's pretty bad.

I'm an enthusiast, and the first thing that went through my mind when I saw those a few years back, was that's the next thing to be banned.  That said, for all the time they've been available, this is the first and only time they have been used for something like this.  It's also important to note that they aren't necessary to make a weapon behave like this...it just facilitates it.

Cool to see more folks playing with 3D printers.  I'm guessing you guys are starting to see now why very few make large 3D printed parts to sell.  Unless they are very rare and often sought after items, the design time, print time, maintenance and materials usually makes it not worth the effort, or the final cost of the item too high to be reasonably marketable.  But they are great for tinkerers, making personal "one-offs" and prototyping for other manufacturing processes.  Not sure we'll ever see machines based on this type of technology which would be well-suited to replace the more standard methods of production.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on November 02, 2017, 03:31:43 pm
*sigh*

I made a lengthy post in response to that, but I don't want this thread ruined so I deleted it. 

Anyway....

I agree that 3d printers will probably never replace more traditional manufacturing methods.  What I can see happening is that 3d printers eventually become so turn key that manufacturers might send you an stl to print out when you break a knob off your dryer instead of sending a replacement part.  I eventually see them installed as a vending machine in Lowes/Home Depot.... right next to the key machine.  It's good to print out a rough shape for a casting project or something like that.  I believe someone is selling a wax filament now.... that'd be great for casting jewelry and gears and stuff. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Slippyblade on November 02, 2017, 03:39:32 pm
I believe someone is selling a wax filament now.... that'd be great for casting jewelry and gears and stuff. 

Yep, high density wax filaments have been around for a while now.  Making investments for bronze casting is why my wife wants to get a 3d printer.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on November 02, 2017, 04:12:45 pm
So now it's even easier to bootleg Warhammer figurines?  Print it in wax, mold in silicon, and melt some pewter.

You guys are leaving so much money on the table.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on November 02, 2017, 04:24:44 pm
GE is 3D printing a lot of the parts to its new turboprop...

https://www.ge.com/reports/mad-props-3d-printed-airplane-engine-will-run-year/ (https://www.ge.com/reports/mad-props-3d-printed-airplane-engine-will-run-year/)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on November 02, 2017, 04:26:57 pm
So now it's even easier to bootleg Warhammer figurines?  Print it in wax, mold in silicon, and melt some pewter.

You guys are leaving so much money on the table.

$30 for a 1lb pewter ingot off amazon..............

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on November 02, 2017, 04:50:23 pm
Also there's the electric bill.  Imagine your toaster on for 2 hours.......
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on November 02, 2017, 04:58:44 pm
Also there's the electric bill.  Imagine your toaster on for 2 hours.......

natural gas baseplate heater?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on November 02, 2017, 05:43:45 pm
$30 for a 1lb pewter ingot off amazon..............

Huh, well, that stuff got even more expensive than I remember. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 02, 2017, 05:46:16 pm
For me, the ability to make one offs is key. Also, the school I work at is really getting into 3D printing for the science program, so I want to try and be up to speed on it.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: RandyT on November 02, 2017, 11:04:47 pm
What I can see happening is that 3d printers eventually become so turn key that manufacturers might send you an stl to print out when you break a knob off your dryer instead of sending a replacement part.  I eventually see them installed as a vending machine in Lowes/Home Depot.... right next to the key machine.  It's good to print out a rough shape for a casting project or something like that.  I believe someone is selling a wax filament now.... that'd be great for casting jewelry and gears and stuff.

I tend to think that the FDM process will never really be that autonomous.  I have an expensive unit, which I use exclusively for prototyping.  It prints perfect parts, and did so straight out of the box.  But geometry plays a huge role in what needs to be done after.  Some parts pop right off the raft, and some are a nightmare to release.  Support structures can also be a major issue.  There are just too many variables, too much post-print work, and the process simply takes too long for something like a vending machine.

But for something like you mentioned at the end, absolutely!  That type of application is where these machines really shine.  I would imagine that a wax filament model would be really easy to clean up and make a very nice master for molding.


 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on November 03, 2017, 06:49:40 am
The stuff here just melts away in an oven leaving whatever you put around it after printing.

https://makezine.com/2015/02/02/new-3d-printer-filament-brings-lost-wax-casting-to-your-desktop/

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on November 03, 2017, 09:43:47 am
I watched that video.  That was basically the worst example imaginable.  Why didn't that guy make a second attempt that wasn't a shitshow?

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 03, 2017, 12:36:56 pm
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171103/7d982ffa59367c25cbf9b95867a41139.jpg)
Haven’t assembled yet, but I did upgrade my bearings to the Ingush DryLins...
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on November 03, 2017, 12:54:36 pm
You're supposed to suffer through the stock build first, then print upgrades as you go.  Wimp.   ;D
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: RandyT on November 03, 2017, 01:40:18 pm
I watched that video.  That was basically the worst example imaginable.  Why didn't that guy make a second attempt that wasn't a shitshow?

You aren't kidding.  Looks like they spent a lot of time and money to make a piece of scrap.

Based on some reviews, a better material for lost wax is found here (http://machinablewax.com/product.php?product=52).  Lower melt-out temp, and supposedly leaves the mold much cleaner in the end.  The Moldlay material has been reported by some to leave a lot of charred residue in the mold.  Your mileage may vary.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 03, 2017, 01:52:42 pm
You're supposed to suffer through the stock build first, then print upgrades as you go.  Wimp.   ;D

I’m picking up a ton of printed upgrades tomorrow from Arcadenut.

You going to the repair party, homes?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on November 03, 2017, 01:55:47 pm
You're supposed to suffer through the stock build first, then print upgrades as you go.  Wimp.   ;D

I’m picking up a ton of printed upgrades tomorrow from Arcadenut.

You going to the repair party, homes?

Nope, got too much going on.  Soccer for the boy, roller skating birthday party for the girl, not to mention the 20 or so bartop orders waiting to be slot & shipped. 

Really wanted to go, I've got like 4 dead KI pcb's and would love to make a working one out of them.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on November 03, 2017, 04:16:32 pm
I watched that video.  That was basically the worst example imaginable.  Why didn't that guy make a second attempt that wasn't a shitshow?

You aren't kidding.  Looks like they spent a lot of time and money to make a piece of scrap.

Based on some reviews, a better material for lost wax is found here (http://machinablewax.com/product.php?product=52).  Lower melt-out temp, and supposedly leaves the mold much cleaner in the end.  The Moldlay material has been reported by some to leave a lot of charred residue in the mold.  Your mileage may vary.

Slow work day.
Learning how to use a 3d printer to make molds for the molten aluminum i'm going to have after I melt down some lawnmower engines in the diy smelter i now want to build. :)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Slippyblade on November 03, 2017, 11:26:50 pm
...molten aluminum i'm going to have after I melt down some lawnmower engines in the diy smelter i now want to build. :)

You too?  I've got two large trash cans of crushed aluminum cans out back waiting for that exact same thing!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on November 04, 2017, 12:55:48 am
I've been wanting to do one and it doesn't look that hard, but the thing is, I'm a bit on the clumsy side and I'm afraid I'll burn my face off. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on November 04, 2017, 02:54:12 pm
get an LCD welding mask.
covers the face and only goes dark when it senses dangerous levels of light like a welder spark or an eclipse. :)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on November 04, 2017, 10:00:25 pm
I might try that. 

My mofset came in today.  I was looking at pre-made mofset holders for the a8 and I'm not a fan.  Most put it too close to the board.  The whole point of using one is to get heat away from the main pcb.  I drilled a couple of holes and mounted mine a couple of inches above the pcb.... Mine has a housing around it and heat rises, so it should be good.  I've gotta hunt up some wire tomorrow and finish the install. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: jdbailey1206 on November 05, 2017, 07:48:56 am
(https://i.imgflip.com/1yu3ic.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 05, 2017, 09:34:34 pm
(https://i.imgflip.com/1yu3ic.jpg)

I’m sorry, I’m still trying to figure out a way to integrate a fish tank.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171106/9cdf5c4da68f75b99c03d644884a7867.jpg)

I just need to finish solidifying the wiring. I plan to do it right the first time.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 05, 2017, 09:45:14 pm
Oh, what’s a good way to level the heater bed?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on November 05, 2017, 09:56:09 pm
Move the bed via either the on-board menu or within cura to a corner with the tape or whatever you use already on the bed.  Stick  a piece of typing paper under the nozzle.. you should feel a bit of tension as you move it in and out, but the paper should go under... use the included screw driver to adjust.  Now repeat for the other three corners of the bed.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 05, 2017, 10:01:15 pm
Move the bed via either the on-board menu or within cura to a corner with the tape or whatever you use already on the bed.  Stick  a piece of typing paper under the nozzle.. you should feel a bit of tension as you move it in and out, but the paper should go under... use the included screw driver to adjust.  Now repeat for the other three corners of the bed.
Thanks, Howard!!

Anyone here do the auto-level upgrade?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 06, 2017, 04:47:14 am
On both of my printers I cleared the auto level Gcode. I just manually level like Howard mentioned. Once you do it a few times, it will only take a minute or two.

Im excited to see that test cube when you're set.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 06, 2017, 07:01:40 am
I’m sorry, I’m still trying to figure out a way to integrate a fish tank.
:laugh2: I love this site
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 06, 2017, 08:25:47 am
On both of my printers I cleared the auto level Gcode. I just manually level like Howard mentioned. Once you do it a few times, it will only take a minute or two.

Im excited to see that test cube when you're set.

I got all the wiring set and fired that mother up. Tested all the connections, seems good. Hope to print the cube tonight.

When I start the machine, it says “Welcome to Omni”. Should I play around with the default firmware or just flash it to Skynet before I do anything?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on November 06, 2017, 12:09:52 pm
The default firmware is crap.  Go ahead and switch to Skynet/Marlin
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 06, 2017, 12:25:05 pm
The default firmware is crap.  Go ahead and switch to Skynet/Marlin

Will do. Thanks!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on November 06, 2017, 12:40:17 pm
Oh and also.... most of the included test models are horribly optimized.  Unless you don't mind wasting a lot of time and filament, just skip them.  Do the cube, then go to thingiverse and start finding stuff there until you are ready to 3d model. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on November 06, 2017, 01:19:25 pm
Yup just start with the 20mm cube and go from there.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 06, 2017, 02:07:46 pm
Yeah, I just plan to do the cube.

So I downloaded Skynet 2.2 and am looking at the directions, Seems simple enough, but I do have a question. It sys you need to select the correct probe configuration before you compile. There are two choices I think that would apply to me - Stock A8 with front left tubular sensor or Stock A8 with official rear sensor. My machine is totally stock, so which applies to me? According to the comments in the code, it says "I recommend for the A8 that you use the front mounted sensor (8MM) because they give greater sensing distance). Or is this for a auto-level sensor and I don't need to uncomment anything here? Advice?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on November 06, 2017, 02:35:21 pm
Full stop.  The latest version of Skynet is 2.3.2.  You don't really comment or uncomment anything.... you download the master zip file, go to the Skynet folder, go to the anet a8 folder and then select the appropriate configuration file to put in the main Skynet folder.  There's an illustrated readme if you scroll down the included link. 

https://github.com/thijsk/Skynet3d (https://github.com/thijsk/Skynet3d)

I believe cura isn't included in this zip, but I have the older version of the zip file if you need it. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 06, 2017, 02:39:05 pm
Thanks for the link - yeah, that's different than what's in 2.2.

Pretty chuffed - should have some time this week to print my cube!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 07, 2017, 04:36:02 pm
I installed Skynet 3D last night. Compiled & flashed flawlessly. I want to finish cleaning up my wiring tonight and then I will be ready to print The Cube.

I did order some inexpensive but I highly rated filament to start testing out. The funny thing is the first set of things I plan to print out is upgrades for the printer.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 07, 2017, 04:37:19 pm
ProTip request - do you print out one thing at a time, or do you print out a bunch a little things all at once?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on November 07, 2017, 04:54:26 pm
Print this and send it to me, kthx...

https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/miniatures/figurines/pirate-figurine (https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/miniatures/figurines/pirate-figurine)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on November 07, 2017, 05:03:16 pm
Jeff Dunham printed this things head on his 3d printer.
took 8 days.
(https://i2.wp.com/thecomicscomic.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/JDCS_Unit_00351_R.jpg?resize=862%2C605)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 07, 2017, 05:49:27 pm
Print this and send it to me, kthx...

https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/miniatures/figurines/pirate-figurine (https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/miniatures/figurines/pirate-figurine)

I will hand-deliver it to you at ZapCon next year.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 07, 2017, 07:29:16 pm
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171108/8e718b499ee3ed95ec8eeb4b21e09281.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171108/d32d818e0557f466196e45478883e8ed.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 07, 2017, 07:46:04 pm
I will post more in just a bit, but let me say right now that bed leveling is a pain in the dick.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Slippyblade on November 07, 2017, 07:57:29 pm
What infill % is that?  Looks very dense.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 07, 2017, 08:00:58 pm
What infill % is that?  Looks very dense.

Mexican I don’t know, everything is the default right now.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on November 07, 2017, 08:27:35 pm
ProTip request - do you print out one thing at a time, or do you print out a bunch a little things all at once?

Print out one thing at a time.  If a print screws up it's better to screw up one thing instead of 8 things.  Of course once you are more confident you might want to print batches of parts.... I'm still not that brave yet. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 07, 2017, 08:45:55 pm
Ok, here’s my cube pix...

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171108/025f3a41112f191e4e1aadc0abad6eed.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171108/0163d682b67d2705662fa04f845d7d30.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171108/b56237230aea095f5c51e2fcea6ed776.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171108/740a39e83eb0870662ca4cf4fda842d4.jpg)

The edges are nice and crisp, as you can see. I’m curious about the layer fill. Also, on the Z sides, you can clearly see some gaps.

Now, I didn’t change a thing in Cura, just loaded the cube from Thingiverse, hit print, and this was the result. Any tips?

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 07, 2017, 08:49:50 pm
 Btw, this was the THIRD try. Back to auto-leveling being a PITA, I thought I had it leveled once, but clearly it was too high, as nothing stuck to the bed. So I adjusted... and the nozzle ended up tearing up the tape. I have thick painters tape, so I tore up that yellow and put the blue down. I finally got the nozzle low enough, adjusted the Z stop switch, and then success. But my dick be painin’.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on November 07, 2017, 09:16:12 pm
Wow that's ugly. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 07, 2017, 09:27:30 pm
Wow that's ugly.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171108/229c587198d89ff83ff5d074bb7ed519.jpg)

So what I do I to fix it, homes?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on November 07, 2017, 09:28:55 pm
Which was the top?  Z?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 07, 2017, 09:32:18 pm
Btw, I janked up the bottom pulling it off the bed.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on November 07, 2017, 09:46:29 pm
You said you didn't touch cura's settings at all.  I'm assuming you created a machine profile for the anet right?

It looks like your nozzle size is wrong so I would say there are issues in your profile.  I can send you one to make sure. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 07, 2017, 09:52:05 pm
You said you didn't touch cura's settings at all.  I'm assuming you created a machine profile for the anet right?

It looks like your nozzle size is wrong so I would say there are issues in your profile.  I can send you one to make sure.
I did a machine profile at the start.

The Anet troubleshooting guide says to up the fill layers. It’s not the test cube that comes with Skynet, it’s one I got off Thingiverse.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on November 07, 2017, 10:04:39 pm
Is it a stl or something pre-sliced?  Something is certainly wrong because the test cube I printed didn't have that kind of separation.  I used the included cube though.  Having the bed off level would only effect the bottom of the print unless it's REALLY off level.  Upping the fill layer probably won't help because we aren't seeing separation on the z axis but rather on every axis.  Actually those look like diagonal lines, which shouldn't be possible unless there are diagonal lines on the 3d model.  What's the elevation like in AZ?  It effects baking so I suppose it could effect 3d printing.  I'm honestly kind of dumbfounded at the results you are getting. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 07, 2017, 10:16:26 pm
Maybe I’ll do the default cube next. Could be a ---smurfy--- stl.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on November 07, 2017, 11:37:49 pm
I would go to the anet a8 facebook page and post your pics.... maybe someone over there have ran into similar issues
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 08, 2017, 12:36:53 am
I figured it out. Like I said, I was running on default settings. It was pretty much set up like if you were using a new ink jet printer, and it was set to economy mode. I adjusted the settings and look at my new print...

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171108/d9ef44eeab0e8404c55d01ed18f3af3c.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 08, 2017, 12:37:45 am
Oh, and the filament was set on the wrong size.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on November 08, 2017, 01:35:56 am
Oh, and the filament was set on the wrong size.

I thought so.  ;)

That looks a lot better.  With some more tweaking you can get an even straighter cube, but you are in the ballpark now, so no need to swim to China and complain.  :)

What temp are you setting the hotbed to?  I realized after a while that heat isn't really necessary for pla.  You can really print with it off, but I found 40c is just warm enough to help you pry the print off without melting the bottom of the print.  It really depends on what you are printing though. Playing around with settings can drive you mad.  I would suggest you start printing utilitarian objects right now so you can tweak as you go and not get frustrated about "ruined" prints. 

Anyway, welcome to the club man..... you'll be printing cool swag in no time. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 08, 2017, 02:48:39 am
ProTip request - do you print out one thing at a time, or do you print out a bunch a little things all at once?

Cube is look in good dude!  :applaud: :applaud:
It takes a minute to learn what to tweak and when to tweak it. Once you get the bed level you shouldn't have to mess with it too much after.

As Howard mentioned printing multiple parts simultaneously can cause issues. If one messes up it usually messes everything up. Printing 2 things at a time If the parts are not to complicated should be fine.

I am not sure if CURA has an option to print each part individually or not. I ended up buying Simplfy3d which allows you to do individual parts, with their own settings/speed/infill.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on November 08, 2017, 08:45:36 am
Do yourself a favor and buy a PEI sheet now.  This is the one I bought:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XK8BWY (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XK8BWY)

No more messing with tape.  When the print cools it pops right off.  It also gives your print a smooth as glass bottom. 

Sheet starts becoming less "sticky"?  All you have to do is wipe it down with rubbing alcohol. 

I hold mine to the hot bed with tiny binder clips, works great.   
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 08, 2017, 11:08:14 am
Ok, so I’m an idiot.


I’m going through the Operation manual this morning, and I see a whole section on Cura settings. I just kind of jumped into it, so nothing is optimized for my printer.

I can’t wait for work to be over so I can go set it up right.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 08, 2017, 11:21:41 am
Do yourself a favor and buy a PEI sheet now.  This is the one I bought:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XK8BWY (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XK8BWY)

No more messing with tape.  When the print cools it pops right off.  It also gives your print a smooth as glass bottom. 

Sheet starts becoming less "sticky"?  All you have to do is wipe it down with rubbing alcohol. 

I hold mine to the hot bed with tiny binder clips, works great.

Ordered.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on November 08, 2017, 11:50:34 am
I hold mine to the hot bed with tiny binder clips, works great.

I get the self adhesive kind and spend a half hour scraping the bed with a razorblade and goo gone before applying a new one.  ???

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on November 08, 2017, 12:55:02 pm
I hold mine to the hot bed with tiny binder clips, works great.

I get the self adhesive kind and spend a half hour scraping the bed with a razorblade and goo gone before applying a new one.  ???

Yeah forget that.  Binder clips ftw. 
Title: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 08, 2017, 01:01:16 pm
Great deal on it right now:

https://m.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_343643.html?wid=44
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on November 08, 2017, 02:12:28 pm
Dang!  That's even a few bucks cheaper than I got mine last year.  I'll bet a new model is about to come out.  I think if you have the room for one and the patience to fool with them it's time to get one if you are a tinkerer.  There's never been a better selection of cheap, open-source printers with highly active communities.  I've got a few arcade-related models I'll be working on this winter you guys might be interested in as well.  ;)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Slippyblade on November 08, 2017, 02:29:51 pm
That's actually within the realm of affordability for me.  I might bite.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on November 08, 2017, 02:37:19 pm
...holy...---steaming pile of meadow muffin---....

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 08, 2017, 03:02:01 pm
Wow, I have no interest in getting one of these, but I enjoyed this breakdown, Sammy!!!

I have to thank you, Howard, and SammyWI for really being detailed and piquing my interest. In the end, it was Vigo who pushed me over the edge. More later.

3 hours to go!!!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on November 08, 2017, 05:06:52 pm
So what will you be printing with it? 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 08, 2017, 05:26:49 pm
So what will you be printing with it?

Weed cards
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 08, 2017, 05:27:17 pm
Actually, just odds and ends to make stuff easier in this hobby.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: vwalbridge on November 08, 2017, 05:31:51 pm
Actually, just odds and ends to make stuff easier in this hobby.

Atari Cone buttons.

(http://31.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_med7ljJqXu1rlvbaro1_500.gif)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on November 08, 2017, 05:34:53 pm
Wife's been giving me ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- for all the stuff I've been printing... the other day she asks me if I can print her a razor holder for the shower.  Muah!  :burgerking:
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: thomas_surles on November 08, 2017, 05:52:33 pm
So what will you be printing with it?

Weed cards
Yo  :afro:
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 08, 2017, 06:54:15 pm
Wow, I have no interest in getting one of these, but I enjoyed this breakdown, Sammy!!!

I have to thank you, Howard, and SammyWI for really being detailed and piquing my interest. In the end, it was Vigo who pushed me over the edge. More later.

3 hours to go!!!

We all knew you were going to get one. You have a very creative mind and this fits right in there.
Title: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 08, 2017, 06:56:50 pm
Wow, I have no interest in getting one of these, but I enjoyed this breakdown, Sammy!!!

I have to thank you, Howard, and SammyWI for really being detailed and piquing my interest. In the end, it was Vigo who pushed me over the edge. More later.

3 hours to go!!!

We all knew you were going to get one. You have a very creative mind and this fits right in there.

Yeah, Sammy’s early info and you and Howard have been extremely helpful these last few weeks. I appreciate it.

Actually, I want to print some zap con swag for everybody that comes, so let that be some incentive for you!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on November 09, 2017, 09:40:02 pm
Great deal on it right now:

https://m.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_343643.html?wid=44

why does it ask for passport info at checkout?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: JDFan on November 09, 2017, 11:10:26 pm
Great deal on it right now:

https://m.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_343643.html?wid=44 (https://m.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_343643.html?wid=44)

why does it ask for passport info at checkout?

Ebay has them for $160 shipped from the US - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Anet-A8-3D-Printer-High-Precision-Reprap-i3-DIY-Kit-220-220-240mm-Big-Size/332309988646?hash=item4d5f380526:g:WqUAAOSwuxpZbgyK (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Anet-A8-3D-Printer-High-Precision-Reprap-i3-DIY-Kit-220-220-240mm-Big-Size/332309988646?hash=item4d5f380526:g:WqUAAOSwuxpZbgyK)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 10, 2017, 12:15:33 pm
Ok, so I’ve got the hang of bed leveling and all that other stuff. Here is a picture of a bracket I printed to attach the MOSFET to the main board.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171110/545107e453566f0d873fd1671d9dd18c.jpg)

I’m generally happy, although you can see that the post holes are pretty rough. I can clean up the internal holes with a drill, but I’d like the outer diameter to be a bit more round. So now I guess it’s time to tweak the other settings.

Any suggestions for optimizing my prints? Any magic numbers or checkboxes I should pay attention to?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 10, 2017, 12:52:12 pm
Based on the bracket you printed Id say you may be over extruding (blobs everywhere, holes are smaller then expected)

To fix the over extruding I think in Cura you would change the FLOW settings. By default its at 100, maybe bump it down a little.

A good way to test is print a 10x10x5 test cube. Then measure it with a caliper, if it comes out larger lower the flow rate. Bump it down to like 96 and print, measure again.

The stringing can be caused by the temp being to high or the retraction settings need to be adjusted.

Lines on the top layer (Dragging) is usually an indication that the nozzle is too low, try raising just a tad.

Here a good Troubleshooting Guide (https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/) that I always turn to if I need help.

And last SPEED. You will eventually find your printers sweet spot, both of mine are usually 50-60 mm/s. For smaller prints I will go lower
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 10, 2017, 01:22:19 pm
Based on the bracket you printed Id say you may be over extruding (blobs everywhere, holes are smaller then expected)

To fix the over extruding I think in Cura you would change the FLOW settings. By default its at 100, maybe bump it down a little.

A good way to test is print a 10x10x5 test cube. Then measure it with a caliper, if it comes out larger lower the flow rate. Bump it down to like 96 and print, measure again.

The stringing can be caused by the temp being to high or the retraction settings need to be adjusted.

Lines on the top layer (Dragging) is usually an indication that the nozzle is too low, try raising just a tad.

Here a good Troubleshooting Guide (https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/) that I always turn to if I need help.

And last SPEED. You will eventually find your printers sweet spot, both of mine are usually 50-60 mm/s. For smaller prints I will go lower

Cool. My flow rate is 100% and the temp is around  220. Speed is 30, I think.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on November 10, 2017, 01:57:57 pm
I have a different printer, but will mention a few things.

I print PLA at 190-195, but different brands of filament have required different temperatures.
Hard to tell from the pic, but the first layer looks blobb-ier.  There are separate settings for the first layer in Cura.  You might double check those.

One of the little things that improved my prints was making sure the wall thickness was set to a multiple of the nozzle diameter.

(I'm using a monoprice mini select.  For those who have one, awesome wiki here: https://www.mpselectmini.com/ (https://www.mpselectmini.com/) )
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 10, 2017, 02:18:47 pm
On both my printers I usually print PLA at 195-205
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 10, 2017, 02:20:20 pm
My nozzle is 0.4, I think.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on November 10, 2017, 02:30:44 pm
My nozzle is 0.4, I think.

Mine too.  I set my wall thickness to 0.8 for most things, 1.2 for things that will be a thin shell...
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 10, 2017, 02:31:36 pm
My nozzle is 0.4, I think.

Mine too.  I set my wall thickness to 0.8 for most things, 1.2 for things that will be a thin shell...

That’s helpful, thx.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on November 10, 2017, 04:09:25 pm
On both my printers I usually print PLA at 195-205

190 for me.  The key to good prints when you have to bridge gaps is to have the plastic cool and harden as quickly as possible so it doesn't sag.  If the plastic is melting fully then it's hot enough. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 10, 2017, 06:53:28 pm
Ok, I reduced the flow to 95, did the shell thickness (which I’d assume is the same thing as wall thinkness) to 0.8, and dropped the temperature down to 190. Printing something that should take 3 hours. We’ll see!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 11, 2017, 02:11:19 am
Ok, getting better - these are the first long time print practical things I've printed. If you have an A8, you know the crappy spool holder they give you. I printed these to center the spool to make it easier for it to roll...

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171111/8fb65aa118f732ce6389343d9d554e5b.jpg)

Total print time 6 1/2 hours for the pair.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on November 11, 2017, 08:46:00 am
Those look good to me.
Title: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 11, 2017, 10:41:47 am
Yeah, those came out fine, and are very functional.

I have a question about overhangs. I printed a frame for the LCD monitor. In this design, there are two areas with long spans in them. As you can see, the tops look fine:

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171111/729096ccddbfdc883c3789138381abcb.jpg)

But on the bottom, the sides where there is no support under the spans, it’s a stringy mess:

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171111/b6112634ecf75e866a6e95107a4a3276.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171111/078299d1827f525f9ef85c1627b916b6.jpg)

I figure that’s because there is no support under the overhang, plus the length of the run. Is it normal? Should I print it with supports underneath? Or is there a different setting I should look at? Thanks so far!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Slippyblade on November 11, 2017, 11:49:25 am
If you tell it to print with supports, it just makes these really flimsy posts underneath the overhangs.  They really help and then when done, they just snap off.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 11, 2017, 11:52:39 am
So I tried printing a filament guidance model this morning, and I had a little bit of the same issue. There’s a section that’s bridges by a little piece that’s only maybe 1 cm between the back plate and the nozzle, and that piece was wrecked during printing. So much so that I had to stop the print because it ruined the nozzle part. So I’m reprinting it, but I laid the piece on its back so the bridge is built horizontally, and I increased the print temperature to 200. I also increase the print speed to 35 just to see what happens. It’s been fun tweaking and tinkering with Settings, I feel like I’m 90% there, I just got to get it dialed in.

Oh, and thanks for all your help. It just saddens me this is the only thread on the site worth a damn anymore.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 11, 2017, 11:57:40 am
If you tell it to print with supports, it just makes these really flimsy posts underneath the overhangs.  They really help and then when done, they just snap off.

Yeah, I’ll probably have to do that. I wasn’t aware of the long overhang when I loaded the model, it was something I got off Thingiverse, and actually I cleaned it up with a Dremel so it doesn’t look bad at all. It’s just a piece it’s going on the back of the printer to help enclose the LCD, so I’m not worried about reprinting it, but I will keep that in mind for future prints. Thanks!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on November 11, 2017, 12:27:06 pm
What you'll find going forward is the key to doing good prints is learning how to best use supports and orient the parts.  Anything with excessive overhangs will have a "bad side" even with supports (although it'll look significantly better with supports,  I use the "touching buildplate" option.).  You just want to orient parts so that unimportant, smaller sides get the overhang and sometimes add a sacrificial layer to the print that you know will get ruined and cut it off. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 11, 2017, 04:34:51 pm
What you'll find going forward is the key to doing good prints is learning how to best use supports and orient the parts.  Anything with excessive overhangs will have a "bad side" even with supports (although it'll look significantly better with supports,  I use the "touching buildplate" option.).  You just want to orient parts so that unimportant, smaller sides get the overhang and sometimes add a sacrificial layer to the print that you know will get ruined and cut it off.
So if you were printing this, would you use supports?

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171111/2aff6502299e155c3d806564a246658b.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 11, 2017, 06:09:17 pm
With no supports that still came out surprisingly well, for the price you guys paid the print quality has been amazing.

For the support question. Yes I would print that with supports.

Question for the CURA users, does it it allow you to place supports where ever? or does it auto generate based on your settings?

(https://i.imgur.com/PD3pdlN.png)

Yots, thats what the print would look like if I was going to print, dark spots are the supports. If the underside isn't going to be seen you can usually still with a less dense support infill.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on November 11, 2017, 07:03:01 pm
Cura has a few options via plugin I think, but thus far the auto generation has been pretty good and I haven't tried anything else.  That's about what the auto-generated supports would look like on a part oriented that way.  If that is the front then that is the way to do it.
Title: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 11, 2017, 07:18:21 pm
Yeah, Howard is right. I wasn’t using the support check box, but I will do that when I reprint the piece.

Reprint, you say? Why yes, it doesn’t fit. I did some investigating and realized that my Y-axis belts are too loose. I tried printing something round and it was coming up oval, so I tightened the belt and it made a huge difference.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 11, 2017, 07:21:46 pm
Just checked the print bed. Wow, what a huge difference. What do you guys do about belt tightening? Just keep an eye on it from time to time?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on November 11, 2017, 07:33:54 pm
I haven't had it loosen yet, so if you have it secure it should stay.

Right now I'm investigating the one flaw in the printer's design.... changing the filament.  It's a huge pain.  I've seen a few on thingiverse that allow the fan assembly to open like a door... I'm thinking a simple cone to attach to the throat of the top of the hot end assembly might work better. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 11, 2017, 07:50:15 pm
I haven't had it loosen yet, so if you have it secure it should stay.

Right now I'm investigating the one flaw in the printer's design.... changing the filament.  It's a huge pain.  I've seen a few on thingiverse that allow the fan assembly to open like a door... I'm thinking a simple cone to attach to the throat of the top of the hot end assembly might work better.

Yes, loading has been a PITA. I might be considering the door assembly myself.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 11, 2017, 08:42:33 pm
Holy crap, tightening the belt made a big difference. The standoffs were perfectly round. I didn’t even need to use a drill to clean it up like I had on previous prints.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on November 11, 2017, 10:01:58 pm
Dunno if it would work on yours, but my monoprice mini has these for belt tension.  Literally looks like the spring from a clothespin.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171112/2670bb67418f52fa54bfc5ef82211682.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 12, 2017, 01:16:26 am
Dunno if it would work on yours, but my monoprice mini has these for belt tension.  Literally looks like the spring from a clothespin.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171112/2670bb67418f52fa54bfc5ef82211682.jpg)

That’s Interesting
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: SammyWI on November 12, 2017, 11:10:19 am
I haven't had it loosen yet, so if you have it secure it should stay.

Right now I'm investigating the one flaw in the printer's design.... changing the filament.  It's a huge pain.  I've seen a few on thingiverse that allow the fan assembly to open like a door... I'm thinking a simple cone to attach to the throat of the top of the hot end assembly might work better.

I guess I should check back on this thread more often.  Glad to hear that folks here are enjoying 3D printing.  I haven't been doing as much as I'd like to but that should change with winter coming.  I do remember the A8 filament loading problems.  I was able to get good at doing it with practice and a few tricks.  1. cut the filament end at a sharp angle to get a nice point to work with.  2. straighten out the filament from it's natural curve from being on the spool so it will actually go where you are aiming it.  3. practice a few times with the fan off so you have an idea where that hole is that you are aiming for.  I was able to get good enough to reliably hit that hole on the first or second try.  Even so, some people never get the hang of it.  I did end up switching to an E3D hotend and Bowden setup - mainly to use higher temp materials but a side affect is no more loading issues.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 12, 2017, 02:17:27 pm
I haven't had it loosen yet, so if you have it secure it should stay.

Right now I'm investigating the one flaw in the printer's design.... changing the filament.  It's a huge pain.  I've seen a few on thingiverse that allow the fan assembly to open like a door... I'm thinking a simple cone to attach to the throat of the top of the hot end assembly might work better.

I guess I should check back on this thread more often.  Glad to hear that folks here are enjoying 3D printing.  I haven't been doing as much as I'd like to but that should change with winter coming.  I do remember the A8 filament loading problems.  I was able to get good at doing it with practice and a few tricks.  1. cut the filament end at a sharp angle to get a nice point to work with.  2. straighten out the filament from it's natural curve from being on the spool so it will actually go where you are aiming it.  3. practice a few times with the fan off so you have an idea where that hole is that you are aiming for.  I was able to get good enough to reliably hit that hole on the first or second try.  Even so, some people never get the hang of it.  I did end up switching to an E3D hotend and Bowden setup - mainly to use higher temp materials but a side affect is no more loading issues.

Your detailed info and Howard’s feedback is what inspired me to pick this up. Thanks!

Great tips!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 12, 2017, 05:56:33 pm
Got this bad boy printed today - came out great. No issues, I didn’t have to do anything to it to make it functional. Holes are round, dimensions are square, everything looks good. 96% of the way there!

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171112/80cf5b283666baba1380cfb57f230d57.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on November 12, 2017, 06:13:22 pm
Looking good.  Now - the pirate.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on November 12, 2017, 06:17:59 pm
recommended: xacto knife holders
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:872876 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:872876)
(https://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/ec/6b/c3/f8/fb/69c2bb66dde79297b97dde3563bd8f72_preview_featured.jpg)

I also printed discs to keep smaller screwdrivers centered in the cheap pegboard holders.

All the other plastic pegboard things I thought about printing, I found cheap enough elsewhere that it wasn't worth my time to print them.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Vigo on November 13, 2017, 02:51:19 am
Speaking of pegboard, lots of benefits to 3d printing your pegboard stuff for the shop/garage.

I found the parametric pegboard tool to be very very helpful, especially when dealing with my special sized stuff.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:537516 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:537516)

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=363506;image)

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=363508;image)

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=363512;image)


And for pegboard, if you have those hooks that just slip down, these clips are a MUST. I will not go back to hanging hooks without em.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:559094 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:559094)

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=363514;image)

I also use epoxy all the time, so I made disposable mini pallet knives for small epoxy jobs, since they only give you one mini popsicle stick with each package of epoxy. They work great and hang on pegboard. I attached the STL.

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=363510;image)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: jdbailey1206 on November 13, 2017, 06:39:57 am
I have an odd question.  After printing does everyone find themselves just accepting the final product of the printer or do you spend time on your creations honing what you created?  ie sanding, etc...
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on November 13, 2017, 07:11:16 am
Everything I print is utilitarian, so I've never bothered sanding or painting anything.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 13, 2017, 11:37:01 am
I have an odd question.  After printing does everyone find themselves just accepting the final product of the printer or do you spend time on your creations honing what you created?  ie sanding, etc...

The only time ive had to sand something is because I didn't calibrate / compensate for something and two pieces dont fit. Or if I plan on painting the model I will sand a little.

(https://i.imgur.com/IewaSKI.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on November 13, 2017, 12:13:13 pm
TIL that I need a bulbasaur planter in my life.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Vigo on November 13, 2017, 12:14:39 pm
Yeah, totally depends. 90% of the time, no. I was interested in Acetone Vapor finishing when I first got into 3d printing, but nothing I build needs that much attention.

I do occasionally sand down and fill the z banding, spray paint, brush on acetone, reshape with a plastic welding iron, etc. to a print if there is a need.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: thomas_surles on November 13, 2017, 01:26:40 pm
TIL that I need a bulbasaur planter in my life.
My thoughts exactly
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 13, 2017, 02:34:39 pm
TIL that I need a bulbasaur planter in my life.

Just pay for shipping and Ill send you one. You'll have to paint it though.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on November 13, 2017, 02:35:45 pm
Can I pay you in Amazon gift cards? 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 13, 2017, 02:39:51 pm
Hellz yeah, I thought I had your address somewhere, PM me it again and ill get it started.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on November 13, 2017, 03:18:56 pm
That is pretty awesome.  Minus 10 points for not using "Cha Cha Cha Chia" though.  ;)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 13, 2017, 04:22:19 pm
Pretty chuffed, just used Tinkercad to create my first functional item. Of course, it’s an upgrade to my printer. :-)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 13, 2017, 08:21:40 pm
Started printing it, realized it ain’t going to suffice. V2 coming soon!!!! ;)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 13, 2017, 11:28:39 pm
Heh. I was printing a new cooling nozzle that was pretty complex. Came home to my first ball of fuzz failed print!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Vigo on November 13, 2017, 11:43:42 pm
Happens to the best of us.  :cheers:
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 13, 2017, 11:47:24 pm
Happens to the best of us.  :cheers:

I have to blame you for this madness, my brother!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Vigo on November 13, 2017, 11:51:09 pm
Happens to the best of us.  :cheers:

I have to blame you for this madness, my brother!

Sorry, not sorry!  :cheers: The awesome thing is you have opened a TON of new doors in your building capacity. There ain't gonna be a thing on the planet that Yot can't build.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 14, 2017, 12:28:48 am
Did you figure out a better way to print the cooling shroud?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 14, 2017, 01:09:55 am
Happens to the best of us.  :cheers:

I have to blame you for this madness, my brother!

Sorry, not sorry!  :cheers: The awesome thing is you have opened a TON of new doors in your building capacity. There ain't gonna be a thing on the planet that Yot can't build.

First thing I’m gonna do is print me a keychain that says Arrogant Tallywacker.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 14, 2017, 01:17:54 am
Did you figure out a better way to print the cooling shroud?

According to the file readme, the light version of the nozzle might cause print issues with the slicer. The zip also includes a thicker version.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 14, 2017, 09:29:14 am
Interestingly enough, I read a tip somewhere that said don’t heat the bed if using blue painters tape. Since Howard also said that I didn’t need to heat the bed anyways, my last couple prints have been running without a heated bed, and I have to say the parts just pop right off.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 14, 2017, 04:16:51 pm
Is anyone using the latest version of Cura? I’m using 14.07 and wondering if I should upgrade.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on November 14, 2017, 10:51:32 pm
That's something we both need to research.  When I first setup my printer the docs said to stick with that version, but that was over a year ago.  It's a stand-alone app, so I suppose multiple versions could run on the same machine.  Worth a shot.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 14, 2017, 11:00:42 pm
You can do a concurrent install. I started a print with the latest version and it errored out after like two levels. Fired up 14.07, loaded the same .stl, and it printed no problem.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on November 14, 2017, 11:02:24 pm
Hmm.... I wonder what the issue is?  It kind of sucks to be stuck on an old version.  Suppose I could switch to one of the pay versions of software. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 15, 2017, 12:56:12 am
Finally dove into the multi color on single extruder printing. Doing it in simplfy3d was super easy. In the latest 4.0 update there is a process spliter that lets you set specific settings for individual layers. I just did 2 processes, after the first job the printer head moved to the side allowing me to swap out the filament, then I started the next process and it continued where it left of, super cool.

(https://i.imgur.com/amslntK.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on November 15, 2017, 01:11:18 am
That's something I want to experiment with, thus the need to find a better way to change filament.  As-is I don't think I could change spools without moving the head. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 15, 2017, 01:26:09 am
Been making badge holders for my wifes co-workers, 10 bucks a pop. Not sure if I am profiting anything, but ive had fun designing and printing them. (Superman logo was painted)
When I swamped out the filament it re-homed X and Y then went back to printing so moving the head wasn't an issue. Usually the motors will still be locked so I dont think it would move to much. But you guys did mention that your printers are a pain to change filament.

(https://i.imgur.com/hcYP7Uw.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on November 15, 2017, 02:40:06 am
Here's a tip that I forgot to share.  If you are printing something you want to look nice and it's flat, print it face side down.  If you heat up the bed it will melt and smooth things out a bit. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 15, 2017, 02:56:03 pm
Been making badge holders for my wifes co-workers, 10 bucks a pop. Not sure if I am profiting anything, but ive had fun designing and printing them. (Superman logo was painted)
When I swamped out the filament it re-homed X and Y then went back to printing so moving the head wasn't an issue. Usually the motors will still be locked so I dont think it would move to much. But you guys did mention that your printers are a pain to change filament.

(https://i.imgur.com/hcYP7Uw.jpg)

Care to share the STL? I want to make badge holders for this year’s ZapCon crew as part of their swag.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 15, 2017, 02:59:07 pm
The last two things I’ve printed are things I created specific for my printer needs. I needed to retool the MOSFET holder and I needed to print a new back cover for the LCD case I printed (the stock cover was too big for the printed case). More later.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on November 15, 2017, 03:00:37 pm
They have multipass badge holders on thingiverse... 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on November 15, 2017, 03:01:15 pm
That's a good idea though.  I should print up some swag for visitors to the booth...  hmm...
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: vwalbridge on November 15, 2017, 03:04:06 pm
I want to make badge holders for this year’s ZapCon crew as part of their swag.

(https://media1.tenor.com/images/0baccdca99f2365f57820d91b8b08eec/tenor.gif?itemid=4931129)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 15, 2017, 03:04:25 pm
That's a good idea though.  I should print up some swag for visitors to the booth...  hmm...

I'm going to print you some Custer's Revenge figures. You're welcome.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 15, 2017, 03:05:38 pm
I want to make badge holders for this year’s ZapCon crew as part of their swag.

(https://media1.tenor.com/images/0baccdca99f2365f57820d91b8b08eec/tenor.gif?itemid=4931129)

Its going to double as the sticker holder. :gobama
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on November 15, 2017, 03:30:10 pm
That's a good idea though.  I should print up some swag for visitors to the booth...  hmm...

I'm going to print you some Custer's Revenge figures. You're welcome.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1682665 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1682665)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 15, 2017, 05:16:44 pm
Care to share the STL? I want to make badge holders for this year’s ZapCon crew as part of their swag.

Attached. Its 2 parts, the inner part lays in the grooves. A little CA or hobby glue works great to hold everything together. The hole part on the blank side is to allow you to press the badge up to remove (slide out).
I left the inner part blank, let me know if you need help with a ZapCon \ BYOAC logo or something. Im getting better and better in Fusion :cheers:
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 15, 2017, 05:26:39 pm
Alright, last one I promise. Im just super chuffed I was able to figure out the multi color stuff. After Howard made the comment about the bottom top layer I went through and leveled my bed again which helped with the top layer. No more random lines.

So the interesting thing about this one is that there were 4 G codes just for the middle section. (Blue base, Red Belt, White Stars, and Gold logo) I actually printed the base, belt, and stars first and knowing that my nozzle wasn't going to be near the bottom I printed the logo after everything was done. All I really had to do is take out the Home Z code on all the processes.

(https://i.imgur.com/nmd7g2gl.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 15, 2017, 06:12:14 pm
Sweet, thanks!
Title: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 15, 2017, 07:29:25 pm
I just finished my first nine hour, super detailed, first thing I ever built from scratch print. I am hella chuffed., Pictures and details to come.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 15, 2017, 11:56:02 pm
Wow, that looks nice!!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 16, 2017, 12:02:26 am
So I printed a case for the LCD on the A8. It was actually my second print of it since my belts were loose and the first version was out of whack. The second version was perfect, but the back acrylic piece was too big! Apparently Anet makes design changes willy nilly and ships whatever.

Undaunted, I imported the case file into Tinkercad and used it to design a brand new back piece that snaps into place (so its multilayered). I also incorporated a space for a 40mm fan if I decide to add it. Took me about 20 minutes total to knock out the design.

I loaded it into Cura, and ran the print. The first run started to look poor, so I canceled the print and slowed the print speed down to 30 (from 40). I also turned the heater bed on.

What a difference! 9 hours later, I had a beautiful, professional looking part that fit perfectly.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171116/2c3eecf70ef53259f9710a5acb8512e4.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 16, 2017, 12:23:31 am
 :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Mike A on November 16, 2017, 08:22:36 am
That is one of the problems with 3D printers. They are great for many jobs, but they are super slow, at least the affordable ones are. A CO2 laser could produce that part in a few minutes. It would also be smooth and look like a finished production part. On the other hand, If you can only have one fabrication tool the 3D printer might be the most versatile.

Yots, you were producing usable stuff right out of the gate. It seems that the affordable 3D printers have graduated from the "print useless trinkets" phase.
I am going to have to pick up a 3D printer one of these days. There are many times I need a part that my laser is not ideally suited to.

Kudos to the work so far, and to the help you have received from the community.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 16, 2017, 08:32:44 am
That is one of the problems with 3D printers. They are great for many jobs, but they are super slow, at least the affordable ones are. A CO2 laser could produce that part in a few minutes. It would also be smooth and look like a finished production part. On the other hand, If you can only have one fabrication tool the 3D printer might be the most versatile.

Yots, you were producing usable stuff right out of the gate. It seems that the affordable 3D printers have graduated from the "print useless trinkets" phase.
I am going to have to pick up a 3D printer one of these days. There are many times I need a part that my laser is not ideally suited to.

Kudos to the work so far, and to the help you have received from the community.

Yeah, I had no desire to get one until Vigo introduced me to a really cool project that requires one. My friend Arcadenut printed me parts, but he uses his to make money and I didn’t feel right asking him to print me additional parts (though he would have done so without hesitation).

The guys here made it super easy to get mine up and running. That’s why I still come around even though I’ve outgrown MAME as a collector. Well, for that and the fishies.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on November 16, 2017, 09:27:58 am
So I printed a case for the LCD on the A8. It was actually my second print of it since my belts were loose and the first version was out of whack. The second version was perfect, but the back acrylic piece was too big! Apparently Anet makes design changes willy nilly and ships whatever.

Undaunted, I imported the case file into Tinkercad and used it to design a brand new back piece that snaps into place (so its multilayered). I also incorporated a space for a 40mm fan if I decide to add it. Took me about 20 minutes total to knock out the design.

When I want to test fit before doing the entire print, I'll just print out the first couple layers or however much is needed to check clearances.
If the part that needs test fit isn't on the bottom, just block off the rest of the design with a giant "box of empty space" in tinkercad.
The test parts are usually only 10 minute print jobs.

I bought some gauge blocks and got all psyched up to calibrate my printer, but it ended up being good out of the box.
I still have to play the high/low game with super precise parts, but I guess that's just the nature of the beast.

Buy a set of digital calipers if you don't already have them.  They make designing useful parts in tinkercad much quicker.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Vigo on November 16, 2017, 01:21:18 pm
Buy a set of digital calipers if you don't already have them.  They make designing useful parts in tinkercad much quicker.

This has easily become the one tool I use 10x more after 3d printing. I've also grown much more comfortable with MM measurements.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 16, 2017, 02:46:31 pm
Buy a set of digital calipers if you don't already have them.  They make designing useful parts in tinkercad much quicker.

This has easily become the one tool I use 10x more after 3d printing. I've also grown much more comfortable with MM measurements.

Getting one right now!!!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 16, 2017, 03:10:08 pm
+1 on the digital caliper, I picked on up from harbor freight and its worked great.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 17, 2017, 01:33:15 am
I ordered a fancy pants one from Amazon.

Ok, so here is the start of my first print on PEI or whatever the hell it is HaRuMaN told me to buy...

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171117/cdb2213586f94bc6b1edc63b015db402.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Locke141 on November 17, 2017, 08:57:37 am


Looks good Yotsuya. I have only used old 3d printers so don't know about the newer models but that looks really good.

That is one of the problems with 3D printers. They are great for many jobs, but they are super slow, at least the affordable ones are. A CO2 laser could produce that part in a few minutes. It would also be smooth and look like a finished production part. On the other hand, If you can only have one fabrication tool the 3D printer might be the most versatile.

Yots, you were producing usable stuff right out of the gate. It seems that the affordable 3D printers have graduated from the "print useless trinkets" phase.
I am going to have to pick up a 3D printer one of these days. There are many times I need a part that my laser is not ideally suited to.

Kudos to the work so far, and to the help you have received from the community.

I agree with Mike A on the above but having used both, if I had to pick one it would be the CO2 laser.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 17, 2017, 09:08:35 am
Thanks, Locke.

Leaving for work, 8 hours in, another 5 to go...

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171117/b97e5b4600074aaf05dd2aa2691f8d57.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Mike A on November 17, 2017, 09:12:39 am
Is there someone at home with a fire extinguisher handy? Those things have been known to burst into flames every once in awhile.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 17, 2017, 09:20:24 am
Is there someone at home with a fire extinguisher handy? Those things have been known to burst into flames every once in awhile.

Relax, I did the MOSFET upgrade for the heater bed and I put a fan on the power supply. I think I’m good.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Mike A on November 17, 2017, 09:28:00 am
I am not being critical of your equipment or workmanship Yots. Production machines really shouldn't be left unattended. Just lookin' out for my bro.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 17, 2017, 09:30:38 am
I am not being critical of your equipment or workmanship Yots. Production machines really shouldn't be left unattended. Just lookin' out for my bro.

No, I get it. I was leery at first, but after using it for a while, I have not noticed any thermal issues. Also, my main board is a revised version of the original boards. They use better connectors. I also made sure to use crimp terminals for all power hook ups instead of just straight bare wire. Between the fans and the MOSFET, I think I’m good. But trust me, I did my research.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: jdbailey1206 on November 17, 2017, 11:25:43 am
(http://stream1.gifsoup.com/view5/20150605/5216861/tommy-boy-car-on-fire-o.gif)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on November 17, 2017, 11:34:10 am
So i'm looking at what yotts got or the tarantula model for next yr after i get my tax return (kids are getting Switch so no toys for me)
What about these Delta printers?

From what i read they are faster but may not print as smoothly?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 17, 2017, 12:36:05 pm
So i'm looking at what yotts got or the tarantula model for next yr after i get my tax return (kids are getting Switch so no toys for me)
What about these Delta printers?

From what i read they are faster but may not print as smoothly?

I don’t know much about other printers, but I will say that I am deliberately printing at a very slow speed because I prefer quality over speed. Once I’m done printing functional upgrades for the printer, I’ll experiment with speed.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on November 17, 2017, 12:39:13 pm
Yeah I typically print detailed stuff at 40mm/s and less detailed at 60mm/s
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 17, 2017, 12:48:02 pm
I print my detailed stuff at 35 mm/s.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Vigo on November 17, 2017, 02:16:43 pm
I am not being critical of your equipment or workmanship Yots. Production machines really shouldn't be left unattended. Just lookin' out for my bro.

I'm never guilty of that.....


(https://media1.tenor.com/images/b9b73452ece1e77b1a8fea54c74526f5/tenor.gif?itemid=10184200)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 17, 2017, 03:43:50 pm
I just checked via Remote Desktop. The print is done, according to my laptop. It would be the first thing to go in a fire, so I feel safe.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 17, 2017, 05:55:41 pm
Everyone leaves the house when printing.

(https://i.imgflip.com/1zkwtr.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 17, 2017, 07:33:49 pm
Holy crap, that surface is smoother than PBJ’s nutsack after he Manscapes

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171118/3dabd5a7e61ba9c708e78f30cb21bbbd.jpg)

Unfortunately, I’m going to have to reprint it, as Anet’s  spool stand snagged my spool and ruined the upper part of the print.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Slippyblade on November 17, 2017, 08:30:31 pm
Holy crap, that surface is smoother than PBJ’s nutsack after he Manscapes


Great... now I've got THAT visual stuck in my head.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 17, 2017, 09:10:06 pm
What do you guys do about holding your spools? The default one sucks ass.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Vigo on November 18, 2017, 02:35:49 am
This is what I came up with


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on November 18, 2017, 10:38:15 am
I use this:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2047554 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2047554)

And the rest of my filament I keep in a dry box with a dehumidifier. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 18, 2017, 11:41:53 am
I was looking at that TUSH. I actually ordered the bearings yesterday.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Le Chuck on November 18, 2017, 01:14:59 pm
So I've been wanting to get into this part of the hobby for a long time, but in my purely subjective opinion, everything these print looks like hot garbage.

You guys are doing fantastic work and I love the innovation, but the quality just looks so cheap and not ready for prime-time.

Anyone tried acetone dipping or anything to clean up the lines and give a nice smooth doesn't look like complete ass surface?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 18, 2017, 01:59:44 pm
So I've been wanting to get into this part of the hobby for a long time, but in my purely subjective opinion, everything these print looks like hot garbage.

You guys are doing fantastic work and I love the innovation, but the quality just looks so cheap and not ready for prime-time.

Anyone tried acetone dipping or anything to clean up the lines and give a nice smooth doesn't look like complete ass surface?

That’s a good point, LC, but for me, I want to make functional objects more than anything. The look of the surface isn’t as much of an issue as the accuracy and durability of the object. And for that, it’s great.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on November 18, 2017, 02:29:23 pm
Le cheuckles likes his 3D printed butt plugs to be smooth as pbj's nutsack after manscaping
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Le Chuck on November 18, 2017, 03:15:55 pm
Le cheuckles likes his 3D printed butt plugs to be smooth as pbj's nutsack after manscaping

Smoother.

Seriously, what's the point of having a contraption in the house if I can't make something that I'd be willing to put inside myself or others
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 18, 2017, 04:08:49 pm
So I've been wanting to get into this part of the hobby for a long time, but in my purely subjective opinion, everything these print looks like hot garbage.

You guys are doing fantastic work and I love the innovation, but the quality just looks so cheap and not ready for prime-time.

Anyone tried acetone dipping or anything to clean up the lines and give a nice smooth doesn't look like complete ass surface?

By settings a smaller layer height you can rid of most lines you see. But you are tacking on hours more to the build time. If your printer can handle 50-100 micron layer height (.05mm - .10mm) then you will see some really nice and smooth surfaces.

Yes you can vapor smooth most filaments, or you can sand a little and hit it with some primer. Most functioning parts ive made I haven't had any reason to paint though.

You shouldn't look at getting a 3d printer to make post production quality parts. Look at it more of a way to fill that creative void that us do it yourself hobbyist have. And at the price that these guys are paying! Now is the PRIME-time to get one :)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: jdbailey1206 on November 18, 2017, 04:31:13 pm
So I've been wanting to get into this part of the hobby for a long time, but in my purely subjective opinion, everything these print looks like hot garbage.

You guys are doing fantastic work and I love the innovation, but the quality just looks so cheap and not ready for prime-time.

Anyone tried acetone dipping or anything to clean up the lines and give a nice smooth doesn't look like complete ass surface?
I have an odd question.  After printing does everyone find themselves just accepting the final product of the printer or do you spend time on your creations honing what you created?  ie sanding, etc...
Good thing I asked this question two pages ago...
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 18, 2017, 04:35:06 pm
So I've been wanting to get into this part of the hobby for a long time, but in my purely subjective opinion, everything these print looks like hot garbage.

You guys are doing fantastic work and I love the innovation, but the quality just looks so cheap and not ready for prime-time.

Anyone tried acetone dipping or anything to clean up the lines and give a nice smooth doesn't look like complete ass surface?

By settings a smaller layer height you can rid of most lines you see. But you are tacking on hours more to the build time. If your printer can handle 50-100 micron layer height (.05mm - .10mm) then you will see some really nice and smooth surfaces.

Yes you can vapor smooth most filaments, or you can sand a little and hit it with some primer. Most functioning parts ive made I haven't had any reason to paint though.

You shouldn't look at getting a 3d printer to make post production quality parts. Look at it more of a way to fill that creative void that us do it yourself hobbyist have. And at the price that these guys are paying! Now is the PRIME-time to get one :)

Exactly.  Four months ago, I had ZERO interest in getting one. But after seeing what they do with them at my new job, and being introduced to the potential though a project of Vigo’s, I am hooked!

It's not the end product so much as it is the process that I've enjoyed.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Le Chuck on November 18, 2017, 05:38:50 pm
So I've been wanting to get into this part of the hobby for a long time, but in my purely subjective opinion, everything these print looks like hot garbage.

You guys are doing fantastic work and I love the innovation, but the quality just looks so cheap and not ready for prime-time.

Anyone tried acetone dipping or anything to clean up the lines and give a nice smooth doesn't look like complete ass surface?
I have an odd question.  After printing does everyone find themselves just accepting the final product of the printer or do you spend time on your creations honing what you created?  ie sanding, etc...
Good thing I asked this question two pages ago...

Whatchya want a ---smurfing--- cookie?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Vigo on November 18, 2017, 06:17:59 pm
And the rest of my filament I keep in a dry box with a dehumidifier.

What does a desert dweller such as your self need to dehumidify your filament? Just curious, I never had felt a need to do that in my climate.








Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 18, 2017, 06:41:48 pm
And the rest of my filament I keep in a dry box with a dehumidifier.

What does a desert dweller such as your self need to dehumidify your filament? Just curious, I never had felt a need to do that in my climate.

You should see where he puts his cigars...
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Vigo on November 18, 2017, 06:44:55 pm
And the rest of my filament I keep in a dry box with a dehumidifier.

What does a desert dweller such as your self need to dehumidify your filament? Just curious, I never had felt a need to do that in my climate.

You should see where he puts his cigars...

(http://www.joystickvault.com/data/500/medium/IMG_2435.JPG)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on November 18, 2017, 06:45:18 pm
And the rest of my filament I keep in a dry box with a dehumidifier.

What does a desert dweller such as your self need to dehumidify your filament? Just curious, I never had felt a need to do that in my climate.

I'm just trying to eliminate any source of variation.  And PLA does absorb water...
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Vigo on November 18, 2017, 06:47:04 pm
I'm 90% ABS, so that makes sense if I haven't noticed it so much...
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Vigo on November 18, 2017, 07:00:07 pm
So I've been wanting to get into this part of the hobby for a long time, but in my purely subjective opinion, everything these print looks like hot garbage.

You guys are doing fantastic work and I love the innovation, but the quality just looks so cheap and not ready for prime-time.

Anyone tried acetone dipping or anything to clean up the lines and give a nice smooth doesn't look like complete ass surface?

Dude, it is all about real, out-of-the-home engineering. It opens a whole new world, and a real builder like you will dig it.

Very simple example I have from yesterday. I have a new video camera for work, and the microphone is too narrow for the shotgun mic arm. Without needing to search online for a conversion part, or going to my garage to see what I can cobble together, or running a wad a duct tape around my microphone I was able to solve this little problem. I just spend all of 5 minutes designing a part, threw it on the printer and an hour later I have a fairly professional looking solution. I can use this microphone at work without looking like an the idiot on the shoestring budget that I am on.

Now imagine having that ability for every aspect of something you are building, where you need a very specific bracket, clip, spacer, stand, enclosure, fitting, wedge, etc.... You can suddenly throw this together in no time and the bigger creation you are building looks much more professional because of it.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: jdbailey1206 on November 18, 2017, 07:14:13 pm
So I've been wanting to get into this part of the hobby for a long time, but in my purely subjective opinion, everything these print looks like hot garbage.

You guys are doing fantastic work and I love the innovation, but the quality just looks so cheap and not ready for prime-time.

Anyone tried acetone dipping or anything to clean up the lines and give a nice smooth doesn't look like complete ass surface?
I have an odd question.  After printing does everyone find themselves just accepting the final product of the printer or do you spend time on your creations honing what you created?  ie sanding, etc...
Good thing I asked this question two pages ago...

Whatchya want a ---smurfing--- cookie?
If you make cookies like you make scale Star Wars droids then yes.  I would love one of your cookies.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 18, 2017, 08:02:28 pm
So I've been wanting to get into this part of the hobby for a long time, but in my purely subjective opinion, everything these print looks like hot garbage.

You guys are doing fantastic work and I love the innovation, but the quality just looks so cheap and not ready for prime-time.

Anyone tried acetone dipping or anything to clean up the lines and give a nice smooth doesn't look like complete ass surface?

Dude, it is all about real, out-of-the-home engineering. It opens a whole new world, and a real builder like you will dig it.

Now imagine having that ability for every aspect of something you are building, where you need a very specific bracket, clip, spacer, stand, enclosure, fitting, wedge, etc.... You can suddenly throw this together in no time and the bigger creation you are building looks much more professional because of it.

Exactly. I’m helping my cousin restore a Galaga. He needs the plexi clips. I can search and fine repros or old used ones, buy them and pay for shipping.... or I can measure and print some for pennies.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on November 18, 2017, 08:56:51 pm
These things are so freaking cheap now they're unbelievable.

Besides all this hobby crap I've seen people printing replacement vertebrae and 3D models of brains from MRIs.  The models are used to design implants, look for abnormalities, etc.

 It's like a piece of the future.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on November 18, 2017, 08:57:30 pm
Double. Post. :-P
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 18, 2017, 09:53:28 pm
Double. Post. :-P
Send me the pirate .stl file!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 18, 2017, 11:09:45 pm
I'd like to see how that pirate comes out on a 140$ printer.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on November 19, 2017, 01:08:01 am
Me, too.  I have no idea what a stl file is, but I want a pirate figurine.

Make it happen, bro.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 19, 2017, 05:19:13 am
Print this and send it to me, kthx...

https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/miniatures/figurines/pirate-figurine (https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/miniatures/figurines/pirate-figurine)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Le Chuck on November 19, 2017, 11:45:39 am
Whatchya want a ---smurfing--- cookie?
If you make cookies like you make scale Star Wars droids then yes.  I would love one of your cookies.

My cookies are not fully functional as cookies, merely striking replicas that serve a purpose other than what you would normally intuit a cookie to do. So yes. Yes I do. ::)


Guys, you make really good points. Great example Vigo.  I might have to jump in on this at some point. I'm thinking about opening a juggling/arcade making business.
 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 19, 2017, 12:07:44 pm
Whatchya want a ---smurfing--- cookie?
If you make cookies like you make scale Star Wars droids then yes.  I would love one of your cookies.

My cookies are not fully functional as cookies, merely striking replicas that serve a purpose other than what you would normally intuit a cookie to do. So yes. Yes I do. ::)


Guys, you make really good points. Great example Vigo.  I might have to jump in on this at some point. I'm thinking about opening a juggling/arcade making business.

Figure out a way to add fish tanks in the mix, and the US Mint will just open a location in your house to save everybody time.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Le Chuck on November 19, 2017, 02:06:07 pm
Whatchya want a ---smurfing--- cookie?
If you make cookies like you make scale Star Wars droids then yes.  I would love one of your cookies.

My cookies are not fully functional as cookies, merely striking replicas that serve a purpose other than what you would normally intuit a cookie to do. So yes. Yes I do. ::)


Guys, you make really good points. Great example Vigo.  I might have to jump in on this at some point. I'm thinking about opening a juggling/arcade making business.

Figure out a way to add fish tanks in the mix, and the US Mint will just open a location in your house to save everybody time.

---fudgesicle--- the US Mint. Imma get the Franklin Mint up in this ---smurfette---. That's how you get the dough. Commemorative arcade plates.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on November 19, 2017, 02:13:43 pm
I'm 90% ABS, so that makes sense if I haven't noticed it so much...

Are you printing in the house?  Is the smell an issue?

I bought a roll of ABS when I bought the printer, but haven't tried it yet.
(similar to my tinkercad experience...the easy thing gets the job done so I never move on to other options)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on November 19, 2017, 02:35:31 pm
Went to print something after the spools have been in the open air for a few months.   First few feet of PLA was brittle AF and could not be fed into the printer without breaking.

TIL spools fit in foodsaver rolls. It is a tight fit and the bag needs to stretch a little.  Shame I didn't have a silica packet to toss in there.
(as an aside, I don't recommend the countertop food saver unless you have lots of unused counter.  The small cheaper ones function the same and can be tossed in a drawer.)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171119/a789645c0f5093945cfe0155584f6676.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on November 19, 2017, 03:42:38 pm
I have ABS.  It stinks like crazy while printing.  PLA smells much better.   :D
Title: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 19, 2017, 04:52:31 pm
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171119/44699b655193405e71c4570f982042a1.jpg)

Spool issue taken care of. These pieces not only fit together perfectly, but the sides are smooth since I printed it on PEI. A Winner is me!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Vigo on November 19, 2017, 05:35:40 pm
I'm 90% ABS, so that makes sense if I haven't noticed it so much...

Are you printing in the house?  Is the smell an issue?

I bought a roll of ABS when I bought the printer, but haven't tried it yet.
(similar to my tinkercad experience...the easy thing gets the job done so I never move on to other options)

Its not terrible, It was much worse when I had the extruder too hot. I do put it in my basement, so I just shut the door while printing, its no bother. Smell doesn't linger or spread.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 19, 2017, 06:26:31 pm
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171119/2dea4709ed96d8bf9661375cc4f7f455.jpg)

So I decided to test the new filament spool by printing something Arcade-related. Dustwashers FTW! Plus, the new spool roller held up perfectly.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on November 19, 2017, 06:42:48 pm
Yeah those TUSH spool holders are the best.  Love mine. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 19, 2017, 08:46:46 pm
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171120/d735d724cdd43d25ee1cab2568e8b9fb.jpg)

Working in my cousin’s Galaga board. All but one of the spacers are broken. 30 minutes later...
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 19, 2017, 09:43:58 pm
In case you didn't know. You can change the skirt to a brim. This makes the outer purge ring attach to the actual print. This helps will really small parts with little surface area to start with.

(https://www.simplify3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/Brim-Closeup-Example.jpeg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 19, 2017, 09:53:29 pm
Finished another planter, PBJ let me know if you're still interested, ill hit you up with that "Saving up for ZapCon" discount.

This one was split in two and glued together.

(https://i.imgur.com/iSTqckal.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Le Chuck on November 19, 2017, 10:46:14 pm
Okay, somebody please put together the no ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- this is what I need shopping list so I can get started on this boondoggle. I want the cheap kit but with all the extra components and upgrades that everyone eventually realized they needed.

Please please pretty please and thank you.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 19, 2017, 11:19:45 pm
Okay, somebody please put together the no ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- this is what I need shopping list so I can get started on this boondoggle. I want the cheap kit but with all the extra components and upgrades that everyone eventually realized they needed.

Please please pretty please and thank you.

No way, ---smurfette---. You need to pay your dues! Get the kit and suffer like the rest of us.

Get a PEI sheet. Thank me later.Also find a local friend who can print you all the upgrade pieces you need while you wait for it to get here from China.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 20, 2017, 12:05:40 am
So my cousin’s Galaga has broken standoffs...

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171120/855837f76a9ab32ae1ba60c1e35ba3f3.jpg)

I measured, printed, and rolled my own, using some #4 x 1/2 screws I had on hand...

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171120/1a8edce029192f9fa37428b1b012b767.jpg)

Installed, the PCB is rock solid and ready to go back into the game cage.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171120/8bd4b71f1c8a543202e965191d1be193.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 20, 2017, 12:23:46 am
So is this going to be the official "Look at what I printed / STL sharing" thread?

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 20, 2017, 12:27:36 am
Okay, somebody please put together the no ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- this is what I need shopping list so I can get started on this boondoggle. I want the cheap kit but with all the extra components and upgrades that everyone eventually realized they needed.

Please please pretty please and thank you.

https://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_343643.html?wid=44 (https://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_343643.html?wid=44)
Coupon Code - GBA8US
135.99$
If the coupon code doesn't work Ive just been looking at YouTube videos, just about everyone has one. Not sure which is the best.

I feel its better to know why you are upgrading parts before you buy them. Its the experience bro.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 20, 2017, 12:51:42 am
So is this going to be the official "Look at what I printed / STL sharing" thread?

Why not? Beats Pi threads, LCD threads, fish tank threads, slim cab threads, etc. Let ‘er rip.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Mike A on November 20, 2017, 05:48:06 am
I like this thread. Is there a place to post 3D printer files or laser and CNC cut files in this forum? That might be a good sticky. A repository for files to fabricate your own replacement parts.

I did a couple of things for people with my laser. I would like to post those. I am going to laser cut a new dust washer for my defender cab to eliminate the slop in the joystick.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Le Chuck on November 20, 2017, 07:53:23 am

I feel its better to know why you are upgrading parts before you buy them. Its the experience bro.

Dude, by that logic I should've angled my joysticks just to experience the suck. I thought the whole point was shared learning to stand on the shoulders of others, not to have a club where I have to make ---smurfy--- stuff until I earn the chops to make good stuff.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on November 20, 2017, 09:04:15 am

I feel its better to know why you are upgrading parts before you buy them. Its the experience bro.

Dude, by that logic I should've angled my joysticks just to experience the suck. I thought the whole point was shared learning to stand on the shoulders of others, not to have a club where I have to make ---smurfy--- stuff until I earn the chops to make good stuff.

Suck it up, Nancy
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 20, 2017, 11:10:40 am

I feel its better to know why you are upgrading parts before you buy them. Its the experience bro.

Dude, by that logic I should've angled my joysticks just to experience the suck. I thought the whole point was shared learning to stand on the shoulders of others, not to have a club where I have to make ---smurfy--- stuff until I earn the chops to make good stuff.

If you’re going to get the A8 (and I would, for the price), start by reading this thread in its entirety, then go read this page here:

https://pevly.com/anet-a8-upgrades/

I used it to get the upgrade parts that Arcadenut graciously printed out for me. I had them on hand when I did the build. 

Sign up for an account at Thingiverse.com and Tinkercad.com to get started.

I bought a spool of this so that I could get started with long print runs. It’s been great to use for a learning experience.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0722YQTPY/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1511193909&sr=8-17-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=filament+1.75&psc=1

Get this MOSFET to take the load off your main board PCB and run power directly to the heaterbed:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XY5HBFX/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1511194053&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=mosfet&dpPl=1&dpID=51FrR--Y6qL&ref=plSrch

Buy a PEI sheet, binder clips, and some 608 bearings. Print out the TUSH spool reel that HaRuMaN linked to.

Finally, go here and just read everything:

https://3dprint.wiki/reprap/anet/a8

This was all a part of my journey to get to this point!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 20, 2017, 11:22:53 am
I like this thread. Is there a place to post 3D printer files or laser and CNC cut files in this forum? That might be a good sticky. A repository for files to fabricate your own replacement parts.

I did a couple of things for people with my laser. I would like to post those. I am going to laser cut a new dust washer for my defender cab to eliminate the slop in the joystick.

I like this idea.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Slippyblade on November 20, 2017, 12:37:42 pm
I like this thread. Is there a place to post 3D printer files or laser and CNC cut files in this forum? That might be a good sticky. A repository for files to fabricate your own replacement parts.

I did a couple of things for people with my laser. I would like to post those. I am going to laser cut a new dust washer for my defender cab to eliminate the slop in the joystick.

So then we can become FYOAC?  (Fabricate Your Own Arcade Controls)?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Le Chuck on November 20, 2017, 01:51:56 pm
Suck it up, Nancy
This ain't a bukake flick. I'll leave it in the jar thank you.

Yots- that's what's up. Most appreciated
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: jdbailey1206 on November 20, 2017, 07:56:50 pm
This ain't a bukake flick. I'll leave it in the jar thank you.

I knew you stored something weird in your R2D2 replica.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Le Chuck on November 21, 2017, 12:04:15 am
This ain't a bukake flick. I'll leave it in the jar thank you.

I knew you stored something weird in your R2D2 replica.

You should try the cookies
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: jdbailey1206 on November 21, 2017, 12:18:32 pm
This ain't a bukake flick. I'll leave it in the jar thank you.

I knew you stored something weird in your R2D2 replica.

You should try the cookies
Ill eat the cookies.  Hard pass on la leche.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Vigo on November 21, 2017, 01:19:23 pm
With Le Chuck, you can have them both together!

(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41WFi5JCgWL.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 23, 2017, 08:58:51 pm
Ive spent the last week researching and toying with the idea of getting a 3D printer.

Ive decided ime going to take the plunge in the new year and buy one to play with!

Think ime going to get a Creality CR10 mini.
They seem pretty good for the money.

Just bought the CR-10 (normal) for 330$ will let you know how it is.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on November 24, 2017, 03:35:25 am
Ive spent the last week researching and toying with the idea of getting a 3D printer.

Ive decided ime going to take the plunge in the new year and buy one to play with!

Think ime going to get a Creality CR10 mini.
They seem pretty good for the money.

Just bought the CR-10 (normal) for 330$ will let you know how it is.

I look forward to your input! :)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 24, 2017, 03:40:11 am
Based on most of the reviews I dont think I will be disappointed.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on November 24, 2017, 07:25:34 am
Based on most of the reviews I dont think I will be disappointed.

Nope!
I have read nothing but good about it and its what the groot I posted before was printed on.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 24, 2017, 08:47:51 am
Based on most of the reviews I dont think I will be disappointed.

Nope!
I have read nothing but good about it and its what the groot I posted before was printed on.

get one dawg  :cheers:
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on November 24, 2017, 09:02:25 am
Once i got the funds it will be mine lol
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Slippyblade on November 24, 2017, 06:55:19 pm
I just placed my order on the one from GearBest.  Here's hoping shipping doesn't take too long!
Title: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 24, 2017, 07:48:51 pm
I just placed my order on the one from GearBest.  Here's hoping shipping doesn't take too long!

Did it say if it was from the LA or China warehouse?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on November 24, 2017, 07:49:43 pm
Once i got the funds it will be mine lol

Did it say if it was from the LA or China warehouse?

What was?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 24, 2017, 08:07:19 pm
Once i got the funds it will be mine lol

Did it say if it was from the LA or China warehouse?

What was?

Sorry, that was for Slippy.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Slippyblade on November 24, 2017, 10:16:22 pm
Looks like LA warehouse.  So maybe next week!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 25, 2017, 12:12:17 am
Looks like LA warehouse.  So maybe next week!

Nice. Mine took about 3 weeks from China!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Brian74 on November 25, 2017, 01:52:28 am
Thinking about getting the cr-10s
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on November 25, 2017, 04:41:13 am
Thinking about getting the cr-10s

Ya know you want to :p
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Brian74 on November 25, 2017, 09:46:37 am
Thinking about getting the cr-10s

Ya know you want to :p

I do, just don't know where the best place to get it from.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on November 25, 2017, 10:34:03 am
Amazon was the cheapest I found so far but ime hoping for something good in the Jan sales ;)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on November 27, 2017, 11:03:50 am
I bit the bullet today and brought the CR-10 mini.

It was £50 off in the sales so I was like feck it lol

Ms may kill me though....

Need to buy some filament after pay day now and get printing when I get some time :)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Slippyblade on November 27, 2017, 11:08:23 am
The filament that Yots linked a page or two ago is only $15/roll and currently buy one, get a second at 25% off.  I bought a white and a black.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 27, 2017, 11:42:23 am
Ordered mine on Thursday morning, just arrived now!!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on November 27, 2017, 02:30:19 pm
Have fun!
Mines due later in the week.

Not much point in me ordering that filament though.

But I prob will get some from Amazon.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Slippyblade on November 27, 2017, 02:43:46 pm
My MOSFETs arrived yesterday, my filament is scheduled for tomorrow and my printer arrives on Wednesday!  I'm feeling like a kid on Christmas!

Mind you... this IS my Christmas present this year.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 27, 2017, 04:29:56 pm
My MOSFETs arrived yesterday, my filament is scheduled for tomorrow and my printer arrives on Wednesday!  I'm feeling like a kid on Christmas!

Mind you... this IS my Christmas present this year.

Which MOSFETs did you buy? If you bought the ones I linked to, I have a bracket I designed to help mount them below the main board PCB.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Slippyblade on November 27, 2017, 05:54:15 pm
Yep, I pretty much used your list of links in a previous post.  Same FETs, same filament, etc.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 27, 2017, 06:22:04 pm
Yep, I pretty much used your list of links in a previous post.  Same FETs, same filament, etc.

Sweet, I’ll post my design later.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 28, 2017, 02:25:15 am
Shes up and running, ran into one issue. After getting everything setup I turned it on and nothing would power on. I opened the control box and saw that I was getting 120v to the PSU and 12DC out. After tightening the power wires to the motherboard everything turned on. This will be my first printer with a bowden style extruder.


(https://i.imgur.com/ty5yYQJ.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on November 28, 2017, 03:34:02 am
Shweet!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 28, 2017, 03:37:10 am
So far the only thing I dislike is the big ass fan cover, makes seeing the 1st layer really hard. Will be replacing that first. Need to get another Pi to setup Octoprint as well.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on November 28, 2017, 05:24:40 am
Whats octoprint then?

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 28, 2017, 06:05:50 am
Whats octoprint then?

This was covered a little ways back

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,152421.msg1633821.html#msg1633821 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,152421.msg1633821.html#msg1633821)

Basically its a way to watch and manage your 3d printer. I like it because I have all my printers downstairs and my main PC that I use to design, slice (3d printing stuff) is upstairs. I design and slice a model on my PC, then open Octoprint (in a browser) send the gcode and start the print. You can then watch it from the PC upstairs , or on a mobile device.
And when I need to manage Octoprint while downstairs next to the printers I can just load the site on my phone or tablet.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on November 28, 2017, 06:17:36 am
Just watched a yt video looks interesting.
May look into that at some point but as this will be my first printer think I will start off small.

What is everyone using on their beds?

Seems a mine field of different ideas out there!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 28, 2017, 06:49:16 am
What is everyone using on their beds?

Blue Painters tape is the most common, cheap but is annoying to swap out every other print.

PEI sheets is the next most common, usually one sheet will last a really long time and long as your not jamming the nozzle into it.
and once it starts to lose its jazz you can wipe it with a little isopropyl alcohol and it should perform like new.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on November 28, 2017, 08:28:17 am
I looked at the PEI sheets before and I liked the idea of them, But they seem to be a real PITA to find over here.
Ile have a look to see if I can get a sheet the right size and clip it to the bed.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 28, 2017, 08:30:57 am
PEI sheets are the best. Glad I followed Lee’s advice.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on November 28, 2017, 09:18:13 am
Yeah ive seen them recommended allot and I like the idea of them so ime looking to find one.
Hard to source over here though :s

Its also a pain to find suggestions for and mods/settings/tips etc for the mini as most stuff seems to relate to its bigger bro.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 28, 2017, 09:38:27 am
Why did you get the Mini? seems like the price is only 20-30 difference.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on November 28, 2017, 10:54:17 am
A few reasons really.

1) Its slightly smaller which is good for where I want to put it (my house is pretty small) and I am unlikely to need that extra 80mm depth for what I intend in printing.
2) From what I gather the mini is better built than the standard CR10, No printed parts all metal/cast/moulded. But also keeps all the good stuff.
3) its £40 cheaper lol
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Mike A on November 28, 2017, 11:04:58 am
If 3d printers are anything like other machines, you will always want a larger work area.
 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 28, 2017, 11:45:26 am
What are the print bed dimensions on the Mini?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on November 28, 2017, 12:02:38 pm
What are the print bed dimensions on the Mini?

300x220x300
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 28, 2017, 12:56:57 pm
Not bad.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on November 28, 2017, 01:01:37 pm
Yeah its only 80mm smaller than its big bro depth wise.

Still plenty big enough for little statues/figures and parts which is what I want to print.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on November 28, 2017, 01:27:10 pm
Meh, you went cheap.  You'll regret it.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 28, 2017, 02:31:02 pm
Meh, you went cheap.  You'll regret it.

Oh, I agree, but at least he didn’t get stuck with a dinky build plate. I woulda ponies up the £40 - he’ll spend more than that getting it where he wants it.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 28, 2017, 03:10:03 pm
Ive had a 300 x 300 x 450 build volume for 2 years and maybe used 30% of it. Im trying to get past the "Ohh 25 hours to complete" phase.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on November 28, 2017, 03:50:42 pm
Well I will prob spend more on it in the long term as is the way.

But as I stated above its a better build quality and smaller footprint to fit on my table so ime willing to sacrifice the 80mm for that.

The standard cr10 has glowing reviews so I have high expectations :)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 28, 2017, 04:44:51 pm
Well I will prob spend more on it in the long term as is the way.

But as I stated above its a better build quality and smaller footprint to fit on my table so ime willing to sacrifice the 80mm for that.

The standard cr10 has glowing reviews so I have high expectations :)

Yeah, I don’t regret buying mine at all. It’s been great just learning about the concepts and practices behind 3D printing. There are certainly better machines, and maybe one day I’ll upgrade to them. So enjoy your purchase, brother!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on November 28, 2017, 04:48:54 pm
Sure I will once I get it and set it up.

Then the learning and fun begins!

I needed a winter project now I have one :D
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: thomas_surles on November 28, 2017, 04:51:07 pm
We need a 3d printing request thread so you guys can get some more use out of it and the rest of us can just ask for stuff.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 28, 2017, 05:24:46 pm
Yeah I was going to post something in the Buy/Sell/Trade sections but was going to see what pops up later, maybe a fabrication section or something.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: thomas_surles on November 28, 2017, 06:01:31 pm
Yeah I was going to post something in the Buy/Sell/Trade sections but was going to see what pops up later, maybe a fabrication section or something.
It would be nice but instead of just one vendor doing you guys with machines can volunteer to take on a specific task and not have to deal with a million requests.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 28, 2017, 07:23:30 pm
The 3D Printing : Arcade Edition thread can serve that purpose
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Slippyblade on December 01, 2017, 09:28:25 am
Made my first test print last night, a 20mm calibration cube.  Came out way better than I was expecting.  Almost perfect on dimensions.  It was about 19.95 x 20.1 x 20.05.  I need to level the bed better though and I need to up the flow rate a touch, I got some under extrusion.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on December 01, 2017, 09:42:04 am
Sweeeeeet
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on December 01, 2017, 10:22:14 am
Made my first test print last night, a 20mm calibration cube.  Came out way better than I was expecting.  Almost perfect on dimensions.  It was about 19.95 x 20.1 x 20.05.  I need to level the bed better though and I need to up the flow rate a touch, I got some under extrusion.

I actually do my flow rate at 94% because I was getting blobs.

Yes, get good at bed leveling. I have it down to an art now.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on December 01, 2017, 10:26:45 am
when you hear that extruder clicking you know you have the bed too high...
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on December 01, 2017, 10:46:24 am
when you hear that extruder clicking you know you have the bed too high...
Yep.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Slippyblade on December 01, 2017, 11:46:20 am
I leveled it with a bare bed, then put down painter's tape, so I think that screwed it up.  It seems like the nozzle was actually slightly dragging on the first layer.  Pics are the bottom layer and then the top layer.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on December 01, 2017, 11:58:09 am
Make sure you guys do a legit extruder calibrate before messing with the flow rate. Its simple just measure and mark 100 mm of filament from the top of your extruder and have the system feed 100 mm. See if the line levels out or if it come up short or feeds to much. Then adjust the steps in marlin or what ever firmware your using.

My second printer was coming up way blobby no matter how low I had the flow rate. Found out I was extruding 150  for every 100.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on December 01, 2017, 12:41:56 pm
Make sure you guys do a legit extruder calibrate before messing with the flow rate. Its simple just measure and mark 100 mm of filament from the top of your extruder and have the system feed 100 mm. See if the line levels out or if it come up short or feeds to much.
There's a slightly different extruder calibration procedure here (http://zennmaster.com/makingstuff/reprap-101-calibrating-your-extruder-part-1-e-steps) that works for over-feed and under-feed.
- Measure and mark at 120mm
- Feed 100mm
- Measure where the mark falls
-- If it is at 20mm, the setting is correct
-- If not, use the formula    (Expected feed length / actual feed length) * current steps setting = new steps setting

For example, if you expected to feed 100mm, but only fed 96mm (120mm start position - 24mm end position) with a current steps setting of 150, you would need to adjust the steps setting to 156.25.

(100 / 96) * 150 = 156.25


Scott
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on December 01, 2017, 12:50:50 pm
I leveled it with a bare bed, then put down painter's tape, so I think that screwed it up.  It seems like the nozzle was actually slightly dragging on the first layer.  Pics are the bottom layer and then the top layer.

Slippy, if your using Cura, make sure the filament size is correctly set to 1.75. The default is larger.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Slippyblade on December 01, 2017, 12:59:06 pm
Slippy, if your using Cura, make sure the filament size is correctly set to 1.75. The default is larger.

Yep, I'd taken care of that.  I'm gonna try the extruder calibration that these guys are talking about.  Hadn't heard of that before.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on December 01, 2017, 02:47:33 pm
Hmmm wonder what this is....

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171201/70f846035c49f885f675a349d35708d2.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on December 01, 2017, 03:35:50 pm
Nut shaving harness?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on December 01, 2017, 03:51:12 pm
Nut shaving harness?

You read my mind
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: jdbailey1206 on December 01, 2017, 08:31:50 pm
Nut shaving harness?

I thought we were too good for this mayhem in this thread...
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on December 01, 2017, 09:09:01 pm
Nut shaving harness?

I thought we were too good for this mayhem in this thread...

Yuks are fine when related to the topic at hand.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on December 02, 2017, 02:51:32 am
I still wana know wtf a Nut shaver is relating to Arcadey stuff lol

I have big ballz but I dont think ide need a Gillette quite that big!!

Not sure whats in the box though... Still un-opened maybe ile look later....
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on December 02, 2017, 10:24:56 am
I have big ballz but I dont think ide need a Gillette quite that big!!

I see your confusion.... below is the nut shaver

(https://ewedit.files.wordpress.com/2015/01/chimp-phenomena.jpg?w=610)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on December 02, 2017, 10:30:06 am
And bellow is my new toy 90% built up:

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171202/cd22d6dca2d8087ef0a3e1c5841d586f.jpg)

I need a wider table lol


Ime also waiting for my isopropanol to come before I stick the PEI sheet to the glass bed.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on December 02, 2017, 10:53:13 am
Glad you didn’t say ‘huzzah!’ I’d have to kick you in your freshly shorn testes.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on December 02, 2017, 11:00:10 am
Here’s why I love 3D Printing. Every year, we have a Christmas party with a killer white elephant. Every year we make the little slips with numbers and such.

I had a brainstorm the other day on a way to make the process easier and have some fun. I jumped in to Tinkercad, and voíla!

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171202/88058803e3006ea00aba8ec952235ea1.jpg)

A nice, cute, fun and permanent way to do our white elephant. We’ll use these at Our party, and then two weeks later at our family Christmas party. Then we have them already for next year! Thanks, additive manufacturing!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on December 02, 2017, 11:28:53 am
Top layer looks on point prowski nice job.

So I've been selling those badges, made a google sheet so my wife and I can track how much we've actually made. At 70 bucks right now.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: jdbailey1206 on December 02, 2017, 11:48:30 am
I have big ballz but I dont think ide need a Gillette quite that big!!

I see your confusion.... below is the nut shaver

(https://ewedit.files.wordpress.com/2015/01/chimp-phenomena.jpg?w=610)

Is that kind of like a trunk monkey auto theft system?  Except for your nuts?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on December 02, 2017, 11:51:09 am
I have big ballz but I dont think ide need a Gillette quite that big!!

I see your confusion.... below is the nut shaver

(https://ewedit.files.wordpress.com/2015/01/chimp-phenomena.jpg?w=610)

Is that kind of like a trunk monkey auto theft system?  Except for your nuts?

LOL
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Nephasth on December 02, 2017, 12:10:32 pm
Top layer looks on point prowski nice job.

So I've been selling those badges, made a google sheet so my wife and I can track how much we've actually made. At 70 bucks right now.

What's your google sheet for expenses at?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on December 02, 2017, 01:51:38 pm
Top layer looks on point prowski nice job.

So I've been selling those badges, made a google sheet so my wife and I can track how much we've actually made. At 70 bucks right now.

What's your google sheet for expenses at?

If I was using this purely for making money I would take the time to figure that out. I know for a fact that the filament for each badge is only 12 cents, electricity probably .01 cents if that, printer 330$
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Nephasth on December 02, 2017, 03:07:44 pm
Not as interested in making money as much as I am having the machine pay for itself.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Nephasth on December 02, 2017, 03:21:46 pm
I don't know if it was brought up in this thread already, it's too long for me to want to read it all. But... turn your prints into metal parts: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iKgA6xGDu_c (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iKgA6xGDu_c)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on December 02, 2017, 03:38:49 pm
What's that yot up to now?

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171202/5c445bcfbc41de96cb984a5ac1138c70.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on December 02, 2017, 03:44:13 pm
Ball shaving jig
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on December 02, 2017, 03:52:22 pm
Ball shaving jig

Maybe for your lil' balls...
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on December 02, 2017, 03:58:25 pm
So I think Yots switched out his bearings before he started printing so he may not know, but has anyone compared the roller bears vs the polymer bushing ones? Mainly looking to see if the noise is reduced.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on December 02, 2017, 05:34:53 pm
I did the Ingus upgrade. The cooling fans are noisier than the carriage rails.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on December 02, 2017, 07:46:29 pm
Not as interested in making money as much as I am having the machine pay for itself.

I hope the guy I bought the 3d printed NES rpi case off etsy is paying for his machine cause this little guy is beautiful.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on December 02, 2017, 08:51:50 pm
I have big ballz but I dont think ide need a Gillette quite that big!!

I see your confusion.... below is the nut shaver

(https://ewedit.files.wordpress.com/2015/01/chimp-phenomena.jpg?w=610)

Is that kind of like a trunk monkey auto theft system?  Except for your nuts?

LOL

Fun fact.  That monkey with a razor is from a little known 80's horror film called creepers.  It's well worth a watch.

I printed out one of the carts for the snes classic last night, only I hollowed the model out first.  I think when I moved my printer the other day I threw the calibration out of wack because it got some crazy bad z-banding and one side lifted... something I haven't had happen on this printer yet.  I'm going with pbj's idea... make it hollow and when/if I decide to do a usb expansion, I can put the stick in the cart. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on December 04, 2017, 12:31:24 am
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171204/57a756c90b32f00d4a1b04b3292c770e.jpg)

Yay rolling your own Christmas party decorations!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on December 04, 2017, 01:44:26 am
Cool lol

Well I tried to get mine to its 1st print yesterday but found the glass is warped and I have a huge dip in the middle!

Wish I discovered that before sticking the PEI on :(

So I am going to try some tin foil under the glass later to see if that helps but I suspect I may need a new piece of glass! :(
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on December 04, 2017, 02:59:20 am
Cool lol

Well I tried to get mine to its 1st print yesterday but found the glass is warped and I have a huge dip in the middle!

Wish I discovered that before sticking the PEI on :(

So I am going to try some tin foil under the glass later to see if that helps but I suspect I may need a new piece of glass! :(

Must be a Creality thing. Good idea on the tin foil though, i just ended up putting some tape in the middle. I should be getting my casting plate this week.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on December 04, 2017, 03:14:05 am
Cool lol

Well I tried to get mine to its 1st print yesterday but found the glass is warped and I have a huge dip in the middle!

Wish I discovered that before sticking the PEI on :(

So I am going to try some tin foil under the glass later to see if that helps but I suspect I may need a new piece of glass! :(

Must be a Creality thing. Good idea on the tin foil though, i just ended up putting some tape in the middle. I should be getting my casting plate this week.

Yeah I gather the commonly provide warped glass!! :(
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on December 04, 2017, 05:27:44 am
Well I tin foiled the underside and it made quite a difference!
Still not perfect but should be useable.

I attempted to print the decapacat, It started off good but it started to peel after the first layer or 2 and ended up catching the nozzle.

I am hoping thats because my bed is dirty. My Isopropanol has not yet arrived so the bed has not been cleaned properly yet.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171204/efab1803aeb0dd2297ea75699a7c632c.jpg)

This was what came out so far lol

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171204/5f4a63caee6cb73afa1935497f45dfd1.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on December 04, 2017, 05:41:16 am
Looks like the nozzle is to high. Did you slice the Gcode or was it the one provided?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on December 04, 2017, 05:59:09 am
I sliced it with the settings it suggested in the pdf.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on December 04, 2017, 02:17:43 pm
Pickle Rick!

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=363952;image)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on December 05, 2017, 06:59:21 am
So I need to ask you guys using PEI.

What sort of settings and tricks are you using etc?

Ime really struggling to get this printing properly.

So currently I have it set at 0.2 with a speed of 40mm.
My bed temp is set to 65 (actually about 50-55) and nozzle temp 196.

It always seems to start peeling at the same place (back of the cat) and catch on the nozzle before being pulled off the bed.

Ive re-levelled the bed several times and cleaned with isopropanol 90%.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on December 05, 2017, 07:26:29 am
Pull the filament out, start the print and pause it mid first layer. Slide a piece of paper between the bed and nozzle and check to see if its touching the tip or not, you should have a slight drag, if not the tip is to high. If its tight then the filament may be scrapping itself. Also, although I print around 40-60 My first layer is usually 30-40% of that. If using Cura there should be a first layer settings.

If your using the small roll of filament that came with the printer try 210C for the temp instead.

Using a bowden extruder I learned that the retract settings a way different from direct drives. Normally I would set my retract to .5 - 2 max. The bowden seems to work best at 5-6mm. I think I finally found a sweet spot on the CR-10, was able to print 4 badges at the same time, all came out level.

One last thing, Im not sure if Cura lets you move the model ,maybe try moving it to a corner or mid front to see if it prints better there. I have a dead zone I try to stay away from on my other printer.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on December 05, 2017, 07:34:38 am
Pull the filament out, start the print and pause it mid first layer. Slide a piece of paper between the bed and nozzle and check to see if its touching the tip or not, you should have a slight drag, if not the tip is to high. If its tight then the filament may be scrapping itself. Also, although I print around 40-60 My first layer is usually 30-40% of that. If using Cura there should be a first layer settings.

If your using the small roll of filament that came with the printer try 210C for the temp instead.

Using a bowden extruder I learned that the retract settings a way different from direct drives. Normally I would set my retract to .5 - 2 max. The bowden seems to work best at 5-6mm. I think I finally found a sweet spot on the CR-10, was able to print 4 badges at the same time, all came out level.

One last thing, Im not sure if Cura lets you move the model ,maybe try moving it to a corner or mid front to see if it prints better there. I have a dead zone I try to stay away from on my other printer.

Cheers.

When I do the bed levelling with the paper I also do the centre spot.

It drags but not quite as much as the corners but as mentioned previously my beds dipped in the centre.

I was using the PLA that came with it but ime just about to try again with a new roll ive got.
My retraction is set at 5mm 60mm/s speed.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on December 05, 2017, 08:16:52 am
Hmmmm.... I’m not seeing those issues myself. PEI has been awesome.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on December 05, 2017, 08:18:31 am
Hmmmm.... I’m not seeing those issues myself. PEI has been awesome.

What settings are you printing your PLA at yots?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on December 05, 2017, 08:37:39 am
I've never had any issues with the PEI, just clean with rubbing alcohol and go.

Have you tried printing your part with a brim?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on December 05, 2017, 08:49:07 am
Hmmmm.... I’m not seeing those issues myself. PEI has been awesome.

What settings are you printing your PLA at yots?

200 deg nozzle, 60 deg bed.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on December 05, 2017, 08:50:11 am
I've never had any issues with the PEI, just clean with rubbing alcohol and go.

Have you tried printing your part with a brim?

No just a skirt so far.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on December 05, 2017, 09:05:26 am
I'm 210C nozzle, 70C bed, btw.  Also have cooling fans, but they aren't active on like the first three layers. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on December 05, 2017, 09:10:36 am
Ime thinking part of the problem may be my PLA glooping out and sticking to the nozzle?

As its warming up it comes out, curls over and then sticks to the side before it even begins?

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171205/e25f26f0cbb1c5043f378611f1dd3f13.jpg)

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on December 05, 2017, 09:12:45 am
Just keep messing with it. It took me a couple of days before I got it dialed in.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on December 05, 2017, 09:17:46 am
Be nice if I could just get a decent first layer down atm yots!

So far the furthest its got is layer 3.....
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on December 05, 2017, 09:41:40 am
What program are you using to print?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on December 05, 2017, 09:51:59 am
Cura.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on December 05, 2017, 10:11:39 am
Ime thinking part of the problem may be my PLA glooping out and sticking to the nozzle?

As its warming up it comes out, curls over and then sticks to the side before it even begins?

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171205/e25f26f0cbb1c5043f378611f1dd3f13.jpg)

When heated and you just extrude a bunch is it all squirrly or a straight line?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on December 05, 2017, 10:12:28 am
Just coils up like in the picture.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on December 05, 2017, 10:17:03 am
The kit should of came with a spare nozzle, maybe swap it out.

You should export your Cura profile so it can check it out.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on December 05, 2017, 10:26:08 am
No spare nozzle sadly.
What do you mean by Export it to check?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on December 05, 2017, 10:28:12 am
The Profile that you use in Cura. I just wanted to see if anything stood out that could be causing it. You should be able to export it, zip it and upload it here. We basically have the same machine so I can test it on my end
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on December 05, 2017, 10:38:36 am
Sorry didnt realise you could do that :p

Here is my set up as is at the moment....
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on December 05, 2017, 11:10:27 am
cool I got it uploaded, what file were you trying to print?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on December 05, 2017, 11:45:26 am
Just the normal cat lol
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on December 05, 2017, 12:58:51 pm
So I was able to print a cube with your settings.

But I would change a couple settings.

First (Not sure if the Mini has the same) I hate the "Wipe" gcode they put in, I think it just causes stringing all over the platform. My starting Gcode is only G28.

I just use the skirt to purge everything.

I would keep the Thickness at .8 (2 shells is perfect for most prints)

Top and bottom layers I usually only do 2-3, again Cura basis it off your layer height so .4 to .6 is a good start. If you notice the top layers are bumpy from the infill then you can up that.

Temps: try 200-205
Pattern: Ive always picked lines over the concentric.




Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on December 05, 2017, 01:01:14 pm
Also ditch the cat and make a 20 x 20 x 20 cube in tinkercad and work on that. If its the Stl or gcode that came with the printer it may be bad, I couldn't even get mine to load and the forums are saying they never got it to print. There is a new one on Thingiverse if you really want it.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on December 05, 2017, 01:41:27 pm
Ile give them a shot tomorrow mate cheers. No natural light now.

Ive been googleing the curling fillament and the general idea seems to be it may be a partially clogged nozzle.

Suggestion seems to be heat the nozzle up to around 220 and push a little through.
Then reduce to 90 and yank out the filament once cooled to pull any crap out with the filament.

Few things for me to try tomorrow, I may get this thing going eventually....

What do you mean about the wipe and g28 start code btw?

Total novice at this stuff :)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on December 05, 2017, 02:55:31 pm
There is a Gcode that happens before and after every print, the Cura Cr-10 profile has a code that makes the hot end  home, then wipes a line of filament like a purge then starts. On most of my printers I just have G28 to home everything and thats it. Thats just my preference though.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on December 05, 2017, 04:09:06 pm
Ahh right so get rid of the line under G28 then?

Must admit I would like that to stop so I can put a clip back on that corner!!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on December 05, 2017, 04:27:04 pm
Right, just have G28
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on December 05, 2017, 05:05:53 pm
Right, just have G28

Cheers man
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on December 06, 2017, 03:59:17 am
Well not sure what it was but there was defo something burnt up in my nozzle....

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171206/fc67f4b3ffde4fc00075236f56b04df8.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on December 06, 2017, 05:26:39 am
Hopefully that helps. Did the mini come with tools? the CR10 kit came with flush snipers, needle for unclogging, and a bunch of spare bolts, nuts and nozzle.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on December 06, 2017, 06:25:58 am
Yeah it had all the tools etc just no nozzle.
Shame really!

I have no time till the weekend now but the feeler guage should be here by then so ile try the freshly cleared nozzle and those settings you gave me then :)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on December 06, 2017, 12:53:35 pm
How many of you are running Skynet vs Regular Marlin?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on December 06, 2017, 01:37:14 pm
Just running whatever the stock firmware is on mine. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on December 06, 2017, 01:52:48 pm
From recent research at least, there used to be a big diff between stock Marlin and Skynet, but recently Marlin adopted many of Skynet's features.  Now if we could just get a pause feature and a resume feature both would be perfect. 

I'm about to start printing the top of my Nintendo sign for the world of Nintendo cabinet.  For those of you following along at home, it was this non-stop print job that burnt out my previous power supply, so wish me luck. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on December 06, 2017, 02:03:21 pm
Good luck :p
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on December 06, 2017, 02:28:15 pm
My stock firmware has pause & resume...   :dunno
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Vigo on December 06, 2017, 02:41:29 pm
Same with mine, but I am using a repetier host based printer. Even then, I prefer to add a pause line to the gcode when pausing to change filament colors or insert something inside the print. That way I can determine the exact point in which the print stops.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on December 06, 2017, 03:27:44 pm
My stock firmware has pause & resume...   :dunno

Really?  Do you have to use the printer's menu or can you do it remotely?  I just use pause lines atm, but it'd be nice to pause a long print before going to bed, ect. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on December 06, 2017, 04:13:13 pm
Mine has pause and resume also as standard.
Just accessed via the printers menu.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on December 08, 2017, 08:19:50 am
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171208/faa8d6071498b7a406b10b40a70723fa.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171208/f36f5cfaac1e3de3ed742d9b71e52b90.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on December 08, 2017, 08:32:32 am
Btw, on the Anet FB Group, most people are saying to switch to Marlin. They said even the Skynet developer recommends this.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Slippyblade on December 08, 2017, 10:51:16 am
From what I've been able to piece together, Skynet was a fork of Marlin back in the day, but they recently re-absorbed into the main Marlin codebase.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Nephasth on December 08, 2017, 10:57:43 am
Star Wars instead of Star Trek...  :banghead:
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on December 08, 2017, 11:23:55 am
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171208/c1068fcaced9ea9112ed1602e1a435c3.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on December 08, 2017, 11:29:59 am
Those are pretty cool.  They lack a hidden pacman, though.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on December 08, 2017, 11:50:46 am
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171208/71302f87817a564a57109df4da03994a.jpg)

Gonna hit them with some spray glitter for that wonderland effect!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on December 08, 2017, 11:52:01 am
did you design them or just pick them up on thingy-verse?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Slippyblade on December 08, 2017, 12:29:28 pm
That's so cool!  I am totally doing that.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on December 08, 2017, 12:34:26 pm
I grabbed them from Thingiverse. No time for love, Dr. Jones!

I’ve been printing them all week.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Malenko on December 08, 2017, 01:33:29 pm
got my carts from Haruman
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=152421.0;attach=364043;image)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Slippyblade on December 08, 2017, 02:50:40 pm
That gold one is just so sexy.  You gonna print some labels to go on those?  Make em look faux real?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Malenko on December 08, 2017, 04:12:32 pm
That gold one is just so sexy.  You gonna print some labels to go on those?  Make em look faux real?
yeap, Im just torn on repro-ing the real lable, or making Parody labels.  Gonna get them professionalyl printed too, no lame sticker paper.

Haruman hand painted the gold one for me.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on December 09, 2017, 12:52:40 am
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171209/9ac3b135675cec45db3d43f1def6be47.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on December 09, 2017, 05:24:10 am
Well I treated myself to a big Steel ruler last night.
And confirmed my glass is bowed...

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171209/3a38632b169ec16589177018123ba552.jpg)

So someone suggested taking it off to prove its the glass...

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171209/24c6352880fbf573ce9898f3ffbac7cb.jpg)

So yeah need some new glass I think.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Vigo on December 09, 2017, 11:31:28 am
can you upgrade it to an aluminum bed or some nice borosilicate tempered glass?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on December 09, 2017, 11:56:00 am
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171209/6ba66a4674dca0b48117e5a535f1e372.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on December 09, 2017, 12:51:43 pm
can you upgrade it to an aluminum bed or some nice borosilicate tempered glass?

The heat bed is Aly but is slightly bowed also.
But its only thin so no real surprise there.

I have emailed a local glazer with my requirements see what they suggest.
Title: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on December 09, 2017, 01:30:52 pm
You should complain, Titch. That’s too new to have a bad bed already. If it shipped like that, they should at least make it right. Get on your lappy and fire off an email ASAP.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on December 09, 2017, 01:32:42 pm
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171209/e6e0549f6eed8e7603dc4b55f29b2096.jpg)

And overnight I printed another cell phone holder, this time for my desk at work.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on December 09, 2017, 03:27:52 pm
You should complain, Titch. That’s too new to have a bad bed already. If it shipped like that, they should at least make it right. Get on your lappy and fire off an email ASAP.

I agree, reading online the ones that have said something ended up getting replacements.

I ended up swapping the glass plate with another one I had. The one Creality sent had to many deviations. The Heated bed actually wasn't that bad. Running the Dial thingy I got from Harbor Freight and a custom gcode I made I was able to compare everything. The heated bed never went over 5 microns (.005) The Mic 6 Casting plate I got was the same, although there wasn't as much change throughout the entire plate. just a couple areas went near the .005 tolerance it stated.

Doing the test on the glass Creality sent the dial was all over the place. Some areas dipped in and out of the 10-15 microns, no consistency at all. This was tested on both sides. 10-15 microns doesn't seem like a lot but you could see it in the bottom and top layers.

Titch one thing you can do to try to help is change the first layer thickness maybe to 150-200% this will put down a fat layer that will help fill in those dips.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on December 09, 2017, 06:02:05 pm
The bed itself is not that bad tbh and can be straightened out using the adjusters.
I suspect a good piece of glass would pull it straight also.
Like I said its only thin Aly.

But the glass is way to far out to do anything with so ile just buy a nice new flat piece somewhere local and roll with it.

Just gutted my £20 sheet of PEI is wasted :(
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on December 10, 2017, 01:23:20 am
Somebody wrote a little article about our baby. 

https://hackaday.com/2017/12/08/how-cheap-can-a-3d-printer-get-the-anet-a8/#more-284994 (https://hackaday.com/2017/12/08/how-cheap-can-a-3d-printer-get-the-anet-a8/#more-284994)

I'm still trying to figure out how it took this guy 12 hours to assemble.... maybe he's disabled or something but I got mine together in about an hour and a half. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: JDFan on December 10, 2017, 12:17:46 pm
I'm still trying to figure out how it took this guy 12 hours to assemble.... maybe he's disabled or something but I got mine together in about an hour and a half.

Well he does say :

Quote
Just peeling the protective film off of the many, many laser-cut acrylic frame parts took me two and a half hours one evening
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on December 10, 2017, 12:49:52 pm
Yeah I got a chuckle out of that.... there aren't that many parts, and you are really supposed to peel those off (except for connecting points) after it is assembled so you don't scratch anything.  I mean the way the bolts and nuts attach via those cut slots is a pain in the butt, but once you get the hang of it, it isn't that bad.  Being honest it probably took a little longer than an hour and a half as the final assembly videos I watched were a little sketchy and I had to go back and re-watch them a couple of times, but certainly not for 12 hours. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on December 11, 2017, 10:19:04 am
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=364108)

This was a big hit today.

 :cheers:
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on December 11, 2017, 10:24:50 am
 :cheers: Waiting to see the pirate......
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on December 11, 2017, 12:19:47 pm
Somebody print out a Pikachu Taser cover.  ;)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: jdbailey1206 on December 13, 2017, 10:41:11 am
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171209/9ac3b135675cec45db3d43f1def6be47.jpg)

Nice brah.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on December 16, 2017, 07:09:51 am
My new boscolite glass came the other day and instant difference noticed!

First few layers have stuck, surface temp more uniform and my first test run to last more than 2 mins is still going well!

Some separation ive noticed on the base layer but sod it ime printing!!!

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171216/350419e16eed9b467fa1e7d1c439302f.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on December 16, 2017, 05:59:27 pm
So I ended up taking my glass off, now i just print straight onto the heated bed plate and a sheet of PEI.

Looking good though Titch
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Slippyblade on December 16, 2017, 06:05:45 pm
I'm loving glass.  I'm just using plain window glass from Home Depot.  Single coat of hair spray and it's golden.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on December 16, 2017, 06:18:17 pm
Ime finding the adhesion to the glass bed is excellent!

A wipe of alcohol and warm to 50 and it still like superglue until the bed cools.

Printed 4 of these today.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171216/26c66b7a96804d47cc792d69e189f99c.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on December 16, 2017, 06:30:32 pm
PEI 4 Lyf bitfhes
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on December 16, 2017, 10:27:58 pm
Could someone send me whatever nerd files print those nerdy Star Wars snowflakes?  I got glib at a party.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on December 18, 2017, 08:53:20 am
My first non printer part ive managed to print:

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171218/806e4989afd827f141c350fe2aafa577.jpg)

Settings need tweaking a little but getting there!!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on December 18, 2017, 09:26:10 am
I printed that thing too:

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=364209;image)

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=364211;image)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on December 18, 2017, 10:01:43 am
Could someone send me whatever nerd files print those nerdy Star Wars snowflakes?  I got glib at a party.

Start here:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1186315
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on December 18, 2017, 10:47:36 am
Thanks, bro.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on December 18, 2017, 12:44:24 pm
Thanks, bro.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171218/cbfae5038308ddf04d49a5c6f4e1bed4.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on December 18, 2017, 03:22:48 pm
I printed that thing too:

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=364209;image)

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=364211;image)

Ha cool! Yeah its a ace model!
Is that full size? I scaled mine down to 25% to test it first.

Out of interest is it the light or are his front teeth slightly moulded together?
Mine did but I was wondering if it was because of the scale down.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on December 18, 2017, 05:58:34 pm
Printed mine full scale, the teeth are slightly molded together. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on December 20, 2017, 01:24:19 pm
Thought I would get in on this holiday decoration stuff, so I printed out some space invaders ornaments.  Yes, I know they are black.... on my next trip out I'm going to pick up some glitter and glue.  I'm thinking of printing out ornaments when I'm not printing other stuff and do a video game related tree next year. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on December 20, 2017, 01:36:53 pm
Ha cool idea
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on January 29, 2018, 03:13:51 am
Think ive got my settings dialled in now.
This is my first long print (14 hrs) and I am well chuffed with how it came out

 (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180129/360f7fa0471b60ef24a6cf41f14e6dc0.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180129/028c922e714840a64b075111ae33a1e7.jpg)

The small one was my first test print quite a noticeable difference lol

Gana paint him metallic steel with the airbrush next and give him some shiny red eyes before being added to my display cabinet ;)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on January 29, 2018, 11:36:20 am
Take that fitbit out of its box you lazy ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: jdbailey1206 on January 29, 2018, 12:57:39 pm
Take that fitbit out of its box you lazy ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---.
It would take too many steps to get to it.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on January 29, 2018, 06:28:18 pm
Take that fitbit out of its box you lazy ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---.

Thats the Ms’s, And its on her arm LOL

I dont buy into the “I need a watch to tell me ive walked 10,000 steps” bollocks.
I know I walk enough steps at work lol
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on January 29, 2018, 07:51:35 pm
You think you know, but how do you know for sure?  I mean you probably aren't counting, so you'd need some convenient little device to count for you...you know, like the watch.  ;)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Slippyblade on January 29, 2018, 08:59:57 pm
Hey Titch,

What were your settings on that?  Layer height, print speed, etc?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on January 30, 2018, 03:33:02 am
Hey Titch,

What were your settings on that?  Layer height, print speed, etc?

It was a .12 layer height, temps were at 190/60, initial layer at 25mm/s and main 40mm/s with 10% infill.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on January 30, 2018, 03:35:47 am
You think you know, but how do you know for sure?  I mean you probably aren't counting, so you'd need some convenient little device to count for you...you know, like the watch.  ;)

We actually wore pedometers once just to get a average of how much walking we do.

We clocked up just over 4 miles a day on a average day.

Would prob be closer to 6 on a busy day.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on January 30, 2018, 09:22:57 am
Is it like some sort of right of passage everybody has to print that Terminator skull?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on January 30, 2018, 11:24:10 am
Is it like some sort of right of passage everybody has to print that Terminator skull?

I don't print knick knacks and trinkets.
Next project when I get around to it is table saw blade mounts that can be screwed to the floor joists in my basement.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on January 30, 2018, 11:57:39 am
Is it like some sort of right of passage everybody has to print that Terminator skull?

I don't print knick knacks and trinkets.
Next project when I get around to it is table saw blade mounts that can be screwed to the floor joists in my basement.

I dig it.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on January 30, 2018, 12:30:31 pm
Is it like some sort of right of passage everybody has to print that Terminator skull?

I thought it was the (decapa)cat that was the right of passage?

No idea but I like Terminator and would like one for my display cabinet :)

I brought my printer to print models and parts for custom jobs so its doing what I intended it to.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: thomas_surles on January 30, 2018, 12:34:36 pm
Is it like some sort of right of passage everybody has to print that Terminator skull?
I mean why wouldnt you. Somebody do a jason vorhees head though.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on January 30, 2018, 01:14:39 pm
Nah man... you make a hockey mask with your vacu-form machine.  ;)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on January 30, 2018, 02:46:09 pm
Is it like some sort of right of passage everybody has to print that Terminator skull?
I mean why wouldnt you. Somebody do a jason vorhees head though.

Because I’m not a 14 year old with a pube moustache smoking a bummed cig during lunch break listening to Judas Priest on my Walkman. :)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on January 30, 2018, 03:29:12 pm
Is it like some sort of right of passage everybody has to print that Terminator skull?
I mean why wouldnt you. Somebody do a jason vorhees head though.

Because I’m not a 14 year old with a pube moustache smoking a bummed cig during lunch break listening to Judas Priest on my Walkman. :)

Walkman? I doubt any 14 year old has a clue what this walkman you speak of is!!!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on January 30, 2018, 03:55:12 pm
Also, the Friday the 13th franchise is awesome and anybody of any age can appreciate it. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: thomas_surles on January 30, 2018, 04:28:04 pm
Is it like some sort of right of passage everybody has to print that Terminator skull?
I mean why wouldnt you. Somebody do a jason vorhees head though.

Because I’m not a 14 year old with a pube moustache smoking a bummed cig during lunch break listening to Judas Priest on my Walkman. :)
Its a slayer shirt bro. And i buy my own cigarettes thank you.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on January 30, 2018, 04:42:53 pm
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4036/4266051459_fceabe8976.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on January 30, 2018, 06:47:21 pm
Come on, those of you guys went to high school in the 80s know exactly who I’m talking about.

Theye usually either wrote Ozzy on their jean jacket or their knuckles, too.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Slippyblade on January 30, 2018, 06:52:19 pm
That was me, you cad!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: JDFan on January 30, 2018, 09:57:18 pm
Because I’m not a 14 year old with a pube moustache smoking a bummed cig during lunch break listening to Judas Priest on my Walkman. :)

(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/a/a9/Molly_Hatchet_-_Molly_Hatchet.jpg/220px-Molly_Hatchet_-_Molly_Hatchet.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Slippyblade on January 30, 2018, 10:13:23 pm
Because I’m not a 14 year old with a pube moustache smoking a bummed cig during lunch break listening to Judas Priest on my Walkman. :)

(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/a/a9/Molly_Hatchet_-_Molly_Hatchet.jpg/220px-Molly_Hatchet_-_Molly_Hatchet.jpg)

Hell yeah!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on February 01, 2018, 11:00:03 pm
Come on, those of you guys went to high school in the 80s know exactly who I’m talking about.

Theye usually either wrote Ozzy on their jean jacket or their knuckles, too.

Walked into class reeking of smoke and always acting tough as if they'd fight anyone but folded like a lawn chair on the first punch.
good times.

Guess they were like beavis and butthead.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on February 12, 2018, 12:35:56 am
So, who wants to be famous and print me up 10 of these?

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on February 12, 2018, 05:17:46 am
So, who wants to be famous and print me up 10 of these?

Send me some dimensions. Metric preferred.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on February 12, 2018, 10:50:22 am
I suppose I could swap the ends on each end of the bank and that would get me down to only needing 4...

Someone is 3D printing these but his price is making me wince:

https://www.shapeways.com/product/S2ELKPEWT/pinball-drop-target-guide?optionId=62742820&li=marketplace (https://www.shapeways.com/product/S2ELKPEWT/pinball-drop-target-guide?optionId=62742820&li=marketplace)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on February 12, 2018, 11:17:45 am
Just need the width and height and I can do the rest. 
Making them like the one in the link you posted would be easy.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on February 12, 2018, 05:56:35 pm
So.  I have an STL for that...  I haven't printed it yet because my printer is currently down...

Lemme see if the creator of the file cares if I share it. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on February 12, 2018, 06:00:37 pm
So.  I have an STL for that...  I haven't printed it yet because my printer is currently down...

Lemme see if the creator of the file cares if I share it.

If you want, send it to me. I can print it out.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Slippyblade on February 12, 2018, 06:35:52 pm
So.  I have an STL for that...

Well isn't that convenient!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on February 12, 2018, 06:45:09 pm
So.  I have an STL for that...

Well isn't that convenient!

Yup.  I was supposed to print it for someone, but my printer is currently borked.   :badmood:
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on February 12, 2018, 07:43:30 pm
So.  I have an STL for that...

Well isn't that convenient!



Yup.  I was supposed to print it for someone, but my printer is currently borked.   :badmood:

Which one do you have again and did you bork it or did it bork itself?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on February 12, 2018, 07:49:50 pm
Tevo Tarantula and combination of the two... 

Have a new hotend on order with a stock thermistor... and an infrared thermometer on the way so I can verify I'm getting the temperatures I'm setting. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on February 12, 2018, 08:24:46 pm
...post....the....file.....


Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on February 12, 2018, 09:20:22 pm
...post....the....file.....

She's gonna post it on thingiverse tonight and then I'll post the link here.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Nephasth on February 12, 2018, 11:51:07 pm
...post....the....file.....

Buy your own printer...
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on February 13, 2018, 06:08:36 pm
So they won't let it publish for 24 hours since it's a new account, but when it goes live it will be here:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2792174 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2792174)

Should be sometime tonight.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on February 14, 2018, 08:30:52 pm
Your link is live! Now I just need one of you big, strong men to print me some...
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on February 14, 2018, 08:37:10 pm
Your link is live! Now I just need one of you big, strong men to print me some...

(https://i.imgur.com/F63KRxL.gif)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on February 14, 2018, 10:00:17 pm
print me some...
First test print started.

The notes on thingiverse say that the screw hole sizes aren't confirmed yet.

What size screw does it use for the crossbars (outer holes) and what size for the PCBs? (inner holes)

Looks like they are different sizes.  #8-32?  #6-32?


Scott
EDIT: Print completed. The holes are different sizes.

The crossbar holes are the right size for #6-32 screws.

The PCB holes appear to take something smaller than a #4 (0.112" diameter) sheet metal screw, maybe a #2 or #0 sheet metal screw.  :dunno

Turning the print 90 degrees on the long axis should result in a smoother ramp.

EDIT2:Turning the print increases the odds of the PCB screw holes splitting due to layer separation.

EDIT3: Working printable version of this Wiliams Drop Target Guide posted here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,152421.msg1650122.html#msg1650122).
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on February 14, 2018, 11:18:30 pm
The inner holes are smaller.  A number #6 machine screw was ever so slightly too large. (One of my attempted kludge repairs)

Original part was a sheet metal screw.  Maybe their thread is a little smaller?

I can believe 6 and 8 are the right sizes.... will try to confirm tomorrow.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on February 15, 2018, 01:38:00 am
The inner holes are smaller.  A number #6 machine screw was ever so slightly too large. (One of my attempted kludge repairs)

Original part was a sheet metal screw.  Maybe their thread is a little smaller?

I can believe 6 and 8 are the right sizes.... will try to confirm tomorrow.
Machine screws and sheet metal screws have the same thread outer diameter for corresponding sizes, but the tpi (threads per inch) are different.

The threads on a #6-32 machine screw (32 tpi) are the same outer diameter as the threads on a #6-20 sheet metal screw. (20 tpi)

#2: 0.086"
#4: 0.112"
#6: 0.138"
#8: 0.164"
----------
Here are the rough measurements of the printed part:
2.835" long
0.795" wide
0.775" tall at the highest parts (inner screw towers)
0.200" outer diameter of inner screw tower  *** this looks too thin to handle a #4 or #6 screw hole ***
1.065" center-to-center on the inner screw holes
2.475" center-to-center on the outer screw holes


Scott
EDIT: Working printable version of this Wiliams Drop Target Guide posted here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,152421.msg1650122.html#msg1650122).
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on February 15, 2018, 09:44:32 am
Snapped a few pics this morning.  Sorry, didn't have a metric ruler nearby.

The black screw is the one that holds the horseshoe PCBs to the inner posts on the plastic part.  It's too small for a 7/64" hole and too large for a 3/32" hole.  The larger bolt screws perfectly into a 1/8" hole, and slides through the larger holes on the end of the plastic part.  Note that it just passes through that hole, it doesn't actually screw into it.





Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on February 15, 2018, 02:29:59 pm
The black screw is the one that holds the horseshoe PCBs to the inner posts on the plastic part.  It's too small for a 7/64" hole and too large for a 3/32" hole. 
Since it's between 0.093" and 0.109", it is probably a #3 x 5/16". (0.099" diameter threads)

If so, those two screw holes probably should be enlarged from about 0.055" and 0.070" to about 0.081" (#46 drill bit) or 0.078" (5/64" drill bit) to reduce the odds of splitting.

The larger bolt screws perfectly into a 1/8" hole, and slides through the larger holes on the end of the plastic part.  Note that it just passes through that hole, it doesn't actually screw into it.
From your pictures, it appears that the machine screw is #5-40 x 5/8". (0.125" diameter threads)

For these holes, a *very* slightly larger diameter hole will allow the screw to pass through easier or you can run a 1/8" drill bit through them.
--------------
Do you have calipers to verify the outer diameter thread sizes?


Scott
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on February 15, 2018, 02:34:00 pm
Yes, I've got calipers laying around somewhere as part of that research lab tool looting I did 3 years ago.  I'll dig them out and measure anything you want, baby. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on February 15, 2018, 03:59:34 pm
If you could confirm these four measurements, that should be enough for Haruman's friend to make several helpful adjustments to the .STL file.

1.) 0.125" outer diameter threads on the #5-40 x 5/8" machine screw

2.) 0.099" outer diameter threads on the #3 x 5/16" screw

3.) 0.081" (?) screw body diameter (valley between the threads) on the #3 x 5/16" screw
- The pilot hole should be this size or slightly larger to reduce the odds of splitting the cylinder during tightening.

4.) 0.200" outer diameter for the inner screw towers
- Can those cylinders be a larger diameter to reduce the odds of splitting/stripping?
- If so, how much larger would you recommend?


Scott
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on February 17, 2018, 11:02:43 pm
1 - 3.2mm

2 - 3mm

3 - 2mm

4 - hair under 5mm.  I think this could be enlarged slightly.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on February 19, 2018, 08:40:21 pm
Alright, since I don’t know how to read this thing... I present photos.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on February 19, 2018, 09:13:25 pm
damn, old school calipers
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Nephasth on February 19, 2018, 09:27:37 pm
Alright, since I don’t know how to read this thing... I present photos.

Top scale is cm broken down to mm. Bottom scale is inches broken down to tenths of an inch. So for example, the screw in the last pic is 2.1 cm long. (which is the wrong way to measure the length of a fastener, correct length of that screw is 3/4")
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on February 19, 2018, 10:27:42 pm
damn, old school calipers

New in package trash pull.  The great tool heist of... 2015ish.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on February 19, 2018, 10:51:10 pm
I would upgrade to a digital if I were you.  I think I paid 8 bucks for mine and it means I don't have to pull out a magnifying glass and a flashlight every time I need to measure something.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on February 19, 2018, 11:27:30 pm
Here's how to read this set of vernier calipers.

I'll check the rest of the pictures soon.


Scott
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on February 20, 2018, 02:45:42 am
Digital FTW!

And just to change subject slightly my Ms wanted a model of Bowser.
Its taken me 6 failed attempts to finally print it without some part breaking off or failing!

Wayy to much support needed for this dude lol

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180220/0fb20ee4ed82138891465a33f3b3c0cf.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180220/4f311ed3a2ee73180b4d783bbe8eb3a1.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on February 20, 2018, 02:46:39 am
Just posting a materiel guide Simplfy3d put out. I am sure the settings will be the same with most slicers.

https://www.simplify3d.com/support/materials-guide (https://www.simplify3d.com/support/materials-guide)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on February 20, 2018, 02:52:53 am
Bowser looks cool dude. Either of you plan on painting it?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on February 20, 2018, 04:33:03 am
Yup it will be painted by the Ms.

She has a back log of painting atm, Ime printing stuff faster than she can paint it LOL

Shes doing my Terminator bust atm :p
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on February 20, 2018, 04:22:06 pm
Yup it will be painted by the Ms.

She has a back log of painting atm, Ime printing stuff faster than she can paint it LOL

Shes doing my Terminator bust atm :p

Which Printer did you get again?
My tax return will be in any week.....
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Slippyblade on February 20, 2018, 04:24:52 pm
Widget, depends on how hackerish you wanna get.  The Anet-A8 is a kit.  That requires a lot of assembly/calibration/babysitting, but is very inexpensive.  A lot of us have that one.  Then there's the Creality CR-10.  More expensive, but it's a lot more turn-key.  Comes assembled and ready to print I believe.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on February 20, 2018, 04:53:38 pm
Yup it will be painted by the Ms.

She has a back log of painting atm, Ime printing stuff faster than she can paint it LOL

Shes doing my Terminator bust atm :p

Which Printer did you get again?
My tax return will be in any week.....

I got the CR10 mini.

Very happy with it and it has loads of support.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on February 21, 2018, 01:11:41 am
I don't want to scare people away from the anet though.....  if you are comfortable with assembling furniture the a8 isn't all that different..... there are just a lot more parts.  It's the last "tool" I've bought in a long time that I use constantly.  It's good for figures and stuff as well, but I haven't had much time to play with that aspect of it yet. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on February 21, 2018, 11:51:41 am
Anet 4 Lyf - if you like to tinker, it’s great for customizing
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on February 21, 2018, 11:53:18 am
Widget, depends on how hackerish you wanna get.  The Anet-A8 is a kit.  That requires a lot of assembly/calibration/babysitting, but is very inexpensive.  A lot of us have that one.  Then there's the Creality CR-10.  More expensive, but it's a lot more turn-key.  Comes assembled and ready to print I believe.

I definitely want a kit.
I like to tinker and tweak.
I've seen the quick guide on what to get for the A8 and I've been looking at some of the Delta kits also.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on February 24, 2018, 09:38:29 pm
I present photos.
Not-so-good news: No luck getting readings from the photos to match up with thread-size charts.   :banghead:

Good news: Found a diagram for the Williams D-7931-5S drop target assembly on Marco Specialties (http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/D-7931-5S) showing that the machine screw is #6 x 3/4".   ;D

Mixed news: The PCB screws are labeled as P/N 20-8815 in the diagram below and P/N 20A-8815 in another version of the diagram.

The horseshoe screws are sheet metal #4 x 1/4".

Question for PBJ: Are the PCB screw threads the same diameter and pitch as the horseshoe screw threads?

(http://www.marcospecialties.com//images/products/D-7931-5S/additional1/large.jpg)

Anyone know where this diagram came from?

Haven't found any manuals with a similar parts breakdown.


Found it.   ;D

Planetary Pinball (http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=BOOK) has online copies of Bally and Williams parts catalogs, including Williams 1980 (http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/WMS_Parts_1980/index.html).

Drop target assemblies are on pages 113-118 -- they all use the 03-7479 guide.

The D-8362 assembly diagram on page 116 shows PCB screws that are the same P/N as the horseshoe screws. (4104-1001-06)


Scott
EDIT: Working printable version of this Wiliams Drop Target Guide posted here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,152421.msg1650122.html#msg1650122).
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: mafiafan123 on February 24, 2018, 11:54:59 pm
I printed that thing too:

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=364209;image)

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=364211;image)
That looks awesome!

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on March 07, 2018, 12:28:28 pm
So after making the whole VR PVC cockpit thing I soon realized how annoying it was to move around in my small VR room. So instead I wanted to try to incorporate HOTAS mounts onto my computer chair I already had. I have the idea, I am in the middle of printing it all up. Finished one piece last night 14 hours, 3 shells, 2.0 layer height.

(https://i.imgur.com/73TpeBj.gif)
(https://i.imgur.com/PnCMD2A.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/uvXT7pN.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Slippyblade on March 07, 2018, 02:05:03 pm
That is a great idea!  PLA or ABS?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on March 07, 2018, 02:11:35 pm
PLA, I fear its not going to hold up, but so far the first part is very solid.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Slippyblade on March 07, 2018, 02:34:54 pm
I've had good luck with PLA.  I do 3 perimeters and a 50% quad subdivision infill when I need strong parts.  So far the only time I've needed to worry about PLA is if the part might get exposed to heat above 100ish degrees.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on March 07, 2018, 04:00:19 pm
The first thing I did with my test pla cube was stand on it.  I then tried to smash it with a hammer.  It's still fine.  Pla is susceptible to heat as mentioned, but other than that it's very strong, probably just as strong as abs. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on March 07, 2018, 06:47:42 pm
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180307/ce78584f1fdff0bc430267daf80cb901.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Mike A on March 07, 2018, 08:04:43 pm
Cookie press?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on March 07, 2018, 08:54:59 pm
Cookie press?

Yup yup!! For the ZapCon after party!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Mike A on March 20, 2018, 06:15:18 am
Just thought I would post this here.

https://hackaday.com/2018/03/18/3d-printer-halts-and-catches-fire-analysis-finds-a-surprising-culprit/ (https://hackaday.com/2018/03/18/3d-printer-halts-and-catches-fire-analysis-finds-a-surprising-culprit/)

As 3D printers get cheaper and are more commonplace, people have a tendency to let their guard down. 3D printers need to be inspected regularly, and leaving them unattended while they work a job poses a certain level of risk.

I am not denigrating cheap 3D printers. They seem really useful. They just need to be treated with a higher level of caution than many other tools. Especially the really cheap ones.

When I run my lasers for work, I stay in the room with them. I moved a computer into that room and routed a network connection so I can work and man the fire extinguisher if necessary. :cheers:
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on March 20, 2018, 08:31:12 am
Just thought I would post this here.

https://hackaday.com/2018/03/18/3d-printer-halts-and-catches-fire-analysis-finds-a-surprising-culprit/ (https://hackaday.com/2018/03/18/3d-printer-halts-and-catches-fire-analysis-finds-a-surprising-culprit/)

As 3D printers get cheaper and are more commonplace, people have a tendency to let their guard down. 3D printers need to be inspected regularly, and leaving them unattended while they work a job poses a certain level of risk.

I am not denigrating cheap 3D printers. They seem really useful. They just need to be treated with a higher level of caution than many other tools. Especially the really cheap ones.

When I run my lasers for work, I stay in the room with them. I moved a computer into that room and routed a network connection so I can work and man the fire extinguisher if necessary. :cheers:

I never leave the house when mine is running.
I have octopi with a web cam set up and monitor it from that via my laptop.
I do intend to buy a small smoke detector as well just to mount near the printer as a early warning rather than relying on my main detectors.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on March 20, 2018, 10:04:14 am
Cash in hand for a dickbutt cookie cutter.  Not even joking.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Nephasth on March 20, 2018, 10:17:05 am
Cash in hand for a dickbutt cookie cutter.  Not even joking.

Use that cash to get to Zapcon, and you get one for free...  :P
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Malenko on March 20, 2018, 11:12:56 am
All this because I drew a dickbutt on Paul's poster 2 years ago.   (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/Smileys/classic/applause.gif)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on March 20, 2018, 11:27:58 am
Cash in hand for a dickbutt cookie cutter.  Not even joking.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180320/e2fdde6acb2bebca388795ccfa40cf79.jpg)

Made this for my homie JulesWallet
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on March 20, 2018, 11:28:25 am
Cash in hand for a dickbutt cookie cutter.  Not even joking.

Use that cash to get to Zapcon, and you get one for free...  :P

Tirekickers gotta tirekick
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on March 30, 2018, 11:33:41 am
Ive been a busy 3D printing elf!

So firstly I designed my first 3D model, a charging dock for a PSP and printed that:

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180330/90938335129ea2a0372240c50611b209.jpg)

I also printed this as a surprise for the Ms, is a wedding cake topper :p

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180330/7433cb8252ffba04193242599a6ad137.jpg)

Also I have just finished printing a fully articulated metal gear rex.
Ile get some pics up once its painted but that may be a while yet as theres lots of pieces!!

When I was printing Rex one of my box fans started getting noisy so I have ordered some new silent fans for that.
Fitted one but gotta wait a week for the other :(

I also fitted dampers to the X & Y steppers during the down time to help quieten it a bit and a new metal extruder.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180330/da847120ca70895731bf2fa1abe82ca6.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180330/4de8a961b45734a5623267567bc611c3.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180330/9daaae5b2aa27a5130092d331da7144e.jpg)

And finally just because You always want to see finished pieces heres one I finished earlier:

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180330/eb3d7015985e6be58939c2c7ed5de8b4.jpg)

So what you guys been making?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Slippyblade on March 30, 2018, 12:11:21 pm
Did you acetone smooth that PSP dock?  That looks great.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on March 30, 2018, 01:36:40 pm
Yeah I'd appreciate some more info.... finish looks top-notch.  Also do you have a link to that extruder?  I don't know if it's the humidity or what, but my filament has broke off while not in use 5 times this month.... I'm getting sick of taking the dang thing apart. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on March 30, 2018, 02:15:49 pm
Yeah the PSP dock looks great, looks like its possibly sanded and painted. If not then hot Dayumm. I also put Dampners on my CR10, need to get the metal extruder set though.
What design software are you using?

Besides all the badge holders I have been making, I made a Bi-Pod adapter for my Ruger 10/22 rifle.

Keep up the good work man
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on March 30, 2018, 02:47:39 pm
Yeah I'd appreciate some more info.... finish looks top-notch.  Also do you have a link to that extruder?  I don't know if it's the humidity or what, but my filament has broke off while not in use 5 times this month.... I'm getting sick of taking the dang thing apart. 

Yeah the PSP dock looks great, looks like its possibly sanded and painted. If not then hot Dayumm. I also put Dampners on my CR10, need to get the metal extruder set though.
What design software are you using?

Besides all the badge holders I have been making, I made a Bi-Pod adapter for my Ruger 10/22 rifle.

Keep up the good work man

Did you acetone smooth that PSP dock?  That looks great.

Cheers guys,

Yeah the PSP dock I made in sketchup, Its not an amazing designer if ime honest but its easy for someone like me to work with.
The finish was just sanded, Primed and painted with spray paint, But it needed it as it was printed at .2 where I normally print at .12

Howard, The extruder drive I replaced is this one:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/HICTOP-Upgraded-Replacement-Aluminum-Extruder/dp/B076LQ9TPZ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522435506&sr=8-3&keywords=hictop+extruder (https://www.amazon.co.uk/HICTOP-Upgraded-Replacement-Aluminum-Extruder/dp/B076LQ9TPZ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522435506&sr=8-3&keywords=hictop+extruder)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on March 30, 2018, 08:17:29 pm
Drill guide for joysticks...  Happ standard and Sanwa JLF

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=366653;image)

Leaf switch holders:

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=366655;image)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on March 30, 2018, 09:44:31 pm
Drill guide for joysticks...  Happ standard and Sanwa JLF

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=366653;image)

Leaf switch holders:

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=366655;image)

Nice idea!  You actually beat me to it on the joystick guide.  One suggestion..... the peg in the center... you might want to put a hole just big enough for a pencil/pen to fit.  That way if you are also drilling the hole for the joystick you'll have a mark for the pilot bit on your hole saw. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: wp34 on March 30, 2018, 09:51:24 pm
Those are cool.   :applaud:

Drill guide for joysticks...  Happ standard and Sanwa JLF

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=366653;image)

Leaf switch holders:

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=366655;image)


Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Nephasth on March 31, 2018, 12:05:30 am
WTF do you need a drill guide for? Mr. CNCman...?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on March 31, 2018, 01:37:17 am
???  To drill the hole for the joystick when making a panel from scratch.  I thought that was pretty obvious. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on March 31, 2018, 06:05:50 am
Cool idea
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on March 31, 2018, 06:35:01 am

Just remembered btw Howard,

I noticed my filament breaks if I have not used the printer for a week or 2, usually just infront of the extruder gear.
I guess the gear puts pressure on it over time and it breaks.

What I do to fix it is pull the Bowden tube out of the coupling that comes out of the extruder, pull the remnants of the fillament through them heat up the hot end to 200 and give it a sharp tug back down the bowden tube.

Then just feed new back in as normal.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on March 31, 2018, 09:34:57 am
Nice idea!  You actually beat me to it on the joystick guide.  One suggestion..... the peg in the center... you might want to put a hole just big enough for a pencil/pen to fit.  That way if you are also drilling the hole for the joystick you'll have a mark for the pilot bit on your hole saw.

Not a bad idea.  :cheers:
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Nephasth on March 31, 2018, 09:49:01 am
???  To drill the hole for the joystick when making a panel from scratch.  I thought that was pretty obvious.

CNC... duh.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on March 31, 2018, 10:16:18 am
???  To drill the hole for the joystick when making a panel from scratch.  I thought that was pretty obvious.

CNC... duh.

I don't CNC everything all the time... 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on March 31, 2018, 11:46:19 am
???  To drill the hole for the joystick when making a panel from scratch.  I thought that was pretty obvious.

CNC... duh.

I don't CNC everything all the time...

I would if I had access to a CNC
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on March 31, 2018, 12:37:19 pm
???  To drill the hole for the joystick when making a panel from scratch.  I thought that was pretty obvious.

CNC... duh.

I don't CNC everything all the time...

I would if I had access to a CNC

He doesn’t have direct access, which is good, since he doesn’t want MDF dust in his sandwiches.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on March 31, 2018, 12:39:30 pm
Ide totally be CNCing shapes in sarnies if I had the chance :p
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on March 31, 2018, 03:29:44 pm
Drill guide for joysticks...  Happ standard and Sanwa JLF
If/when you update this drill guide with a center hole as suggested above, you may also want to add a triangular notch on the center of each side.

Align the notches to horizontal and vertical lines drawn on the panel and your sticks are both perfectly positioned and squarely aligned.   :cheers:


Scott
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on March 31, 2018, 07:06:52 pm

Just remembered btw Howard,

I noticed my filament breaks if I have not used the printer for a week or 2, usually just infront of the extruder gear.
I guess the gear puts pressure on it over time and it breaks.

What I do to fix it is pull the Bowden tube out of the coupling that comes out of the extruder, pull the remnants of the fillament through them heat up the hot end to 200 and give it a sharp tug back down the bowden tube.

Then just feed new back in as normal.

Yeah there's gotta be an easier way though.  I've already added some g-code in my shutdown routine to push the bed out to present the finished part.... maybe if I add some code to back the filament up a bit it'll relieve some of the strain. 
Title: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on April 07, 2018, 05:02:09 pm
Got my extra fan last night and run my first print since the upgrade.

OMG what a difference those dampeners make! The X/Y motors are now almost silent!

And the print came out perfect

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180407/505a6c46439abc76df34386bbda877f2.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on April 07, 2018, 07:21:07 pm
Yeah I need to invest in better bearings.  I've been looking into tool changes actually.... there have been a few a8 mods that allow for plotting, vinyl cutting and small scale cnc.  (Think pcb mill.)  I've just yet to see a carriage that looked sturdy enough for precision printing.  I think it is doable though.... I actually made a simple plotter attachment and it worked fine. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on April 08, 2018, 03:12:43 am
Yeah I need to invest in better bearings.  I've been looking into tool changes actually.... there have been a few a8 mods that allow for plotting, vinyl cutting and small scale cnc.  (Think pcb mill.)  I've just yet to see a carriage that looked sturdy enough for precision printing.  I think it is doable though.... I actually made a simple plotter attachment and it worked fine.

Yeah ive seen a few options for my printer, Laser cutters/etching and CNC stuff.
Not something ime ever likely to consider seriously though tbh.

Anything that small ide get the guys at work to do for me on a night shift lol

But yeah totally do the fan/dampener mods to your printer if you can.
It really is a game changer!!

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on April 08, 2018, 02:25:17 pm
Alien Poker almost back to life.

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=366812;image)

Old and busted on the right, new hotness left.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on April 08, 2018, 02:58:19 pm
Nice.  I look forward to seeing that pin back in action. 

So I found something useful:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2070636 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2070636)

Ignore the part, that may or may not apply to you, but check out the program in the description.  That's what I've been looking for, an automated app to alter the gcode for x-axis plotting.  This would be useful for plotters, vinyl cutters and possibly even pcb milling.  See you need the code altered to basically keep the tool from dragging while moving about... it needs to retract for non 3d printing applications. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on April 08, 2018, 06:30:17 pm
Good stuff PBJ!

Ive just finished printing a prototype winder and speed loader for my TMC mags.

Its a bit rough but functional so ime going to do some further testing then smoothe it out a bit :)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on April 13, 2018, 04:24:47 pm
So has anyone converted the anet a8 to use a Bowden style extruder?  I've been thinking about it since, in theory getting the weight off the carriage would eliminate wobble and increase the overall speed.  The only thing holding me back is the fact that I would have to print a new carriage.  I dunno, a pla carriage just doesn't seem like it would be sturdy. 

But I mean the conversion itself is stupidly cheap.... you can get a j-head hotend complete with Bowden conversion parts for around 10 bucks on amazon.  I just wonder if I'm wasting my time. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Slippyblade on April 13, 2018, 04:34:50 pm
I'm sticking with direct drive since I plan on using flexible filaments soon.  Those don't work with a bowden setup.  If you are gonna stay with PLA, ABS, PetG, etc... I've heard bowden is great.
Title: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on April 13, 2018, 04:45:59 pm
No interest. I’m fine with what mine does.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on April 13, 2018, 09:12:41 pm
I'm sticking with direct drive since I plan on using flexible filaments soon.  Those don't work with a bowden setup.  If you are gonna stay with PLA, ABS, PetG, etc... I've heard bowden is great.

I would like the option to do ninjaflex and stuff but honestly I can't think of a use for it.  I'm trying to design a changeable head system as I'd really like to do a drag knife for vinyl and a laser for engraving and this just seemed like it would make the whole thing easier, but if my prints are going to suffer for it no dice.  I'm open to suggestions. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on April 13, 2018, 11:51:16 pm
So this is pretty cool:

https://hackaday.com/2018/04/13/resuming-failed-3d-prints-automatically/ (https://hackaday.com/2018/04/13/resuming-failed-3d-prints-automatically/)

If the cost isn't terribly high this would be really nice for those 15 hour prints. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on April 14, 2018, 01:52:34 am
Sounds interesting that!
I wonder how it knows if you got spaghetti going on though??
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on April 14, 2018, 07:50:43 pm
PBJ just confirmed that several prints of v0.03 of the Williams Drop Target Guide (P/N 03-7479 or 3B-7479) are installed and working in his Alien Poker.
- v 0.03 - Narrowed columns, adjusted ramp, adjusted position of wall near ramp, enlarged bottom screw hole 10 Apr 18
- v 0.02 - Changed default screw hole sizes 27 Mar 2018
- v 0.01 - First draft 27 Mar 2018

This SCAD file recreates and remixes the model posted here (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2792174) on Thingiverse by Haruman's friend.
 - Corrections to that part are based on measurements of original parts
 - PCB columns changed to ovals for greater strength
 - Inspected by PBJ for accuracy and suitability

This part is used in Williams System 3-6 tables.

Planetary Pinball has online copies of Bally and Williams parts catalogs here (http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=BOOK).

The Williams 1980 catalog here (http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/WMS_Parts_1980/index.html) contains related parts diagrams.

Drop target assemblies are on pages 113-118 -- they all use the 03-7479 guide.

The D-8362 assembly diagram on page 116 shows PCB screws that are the same P/N as the horseshoe screws. (4104-1001-06)

Drop target assemblies that use the 03-7479 guide:
     D-7931-#s  -  # = number of targets (between 1 and 5)
     D-8362     -  5 targets
     D-8442     -  3 targets
     D-9355     -  3 targets

Screw sizes:
 - #6-32 x 3/4" machine screw
 - #4 sheet metal screw

The attached .ZIP file contains the .SCAD file (you can modify the part using OpenSCAD (http://www.openscad.org/)) and .STL file.

Print with supports and your choice of filament -- the ones I sent to PBJ are Hatchbox PLA.


Scott
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on April 14, 2018, 10:40:14 pm
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=366970)

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=366972)

 :cheers:

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on April 14, 2018, 11:06:11 pm
So did you screw right into the holes or did you have to tap them first?  I'm only asking because I've had mixed success in regards to screwing into pla without it splitting.... seems to depend upon the model greatly. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on April 15, 2018, 12:15:02 am
Screwed right in.

This part is unobtainium, other collectors I know are happy to see this come to fruition.  Found out one of my mosfets is blown on my $300 repro MPU.  But that’s another thread.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on April 15, 2018, 12:45:50 am
So did you screw right into the holes or did you have to tap them first?  I'm only asking because I've had mixed success in regards to screwing into pla without it splitting.... seems to depend upon the model greatly.
No need to drill/tap this model because the screw hole sizes are exactly the right size . . . at least for my printer and slicer settings.   ;)

- The machine screw holes (outer columns) just barely brush against the threads.

- The PCB screw holes (inner columns, top) even survived a test using a #6 sheet metal screw instead of a #4 -- the hole stretched, but did not crack.

- The PCB bottom screw hole (center through-hole, bottom) is slightly larger than the PCB screw holes to prevent the cracking that PBJ noticed in one of the v0.02 prints.

If you print the part and have problems with cracking:
- Change the related screw hole size variable(s) in lines 37-39 of the SCAD file
- Preview
- Render
- Output a custom STL

The consideration that some part designers overlook is that instead of removing a circular hole (green), the software removes an inscribed polygon.(blue)

(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/85/OpenSCAD_Under_size_hole.jpg)

The number of sides of that blue polygon is controlled by the variable "$fn=" -- the number of fragments used to render a full circle. (Line 41 of the SCAD file)

To produce a hole like the blue hexagon in the picture above, use "$fn=6".

For an octagon, use "$fn=8".

For a 180-sided polygon, use "$fn=180" -- I know it's overkill, but this is a small part so the render time is still reasonable.


Scott
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on April 15, 2018, 01:19:29 am
Yeah I've ran into the polygon issue already with my 3d printing adventures.  I made a sort of hub to hold  a detachable star wars yoke for my racing rig and upon the first print I was disappointed to find I had wasted two hours printing a blocky mess that the neck of the yoke wouldn't plug into... cranked the poly count for the cylinder up to 180 and it was fine. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on April 15, 2018, 01:27:27 am
Nice!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Locke141 on April 15, 2018, 07:56:22 am
I love this thread.

Just got a 3D printer at work, a mono price select V1. It’s not for personal use but as I’m going to be buying the ABS & PLA and I need to train the technology teacher on how to use it, I don’t see whay I can’t get some test prints from here.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on May 16, 2018, 10:51:20 pm
Here's a weird one.   :dizzy:

PBJ asked me to print this (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:87920) Bally drop target from thingiverse.

I loaded the STL into Cura and turned it on it's side to reduce the odds of layer separation breaking the spring loop.  (supports and raft enabled)

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=367784;image)

When I tried to print it . . . fail.   :banghead:
(I stopped it at around 75% and removed the raft and supports)

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=367780;image)

The loop part of the model was "negated" (solid center, no loop  :dizzy:) and a slot ran down the middle and cut into the semi-circle under the target.

Re-loaded the model into Cura and normal view looks OK, but layer view shows the "negated" loop and slot down the middle in place of the center ridge.

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=367782;image)

Can anyone duplicate this?

Is this a problem with the model or is it caused by the old version (IIIP-i3?) of Cura that came with my Monoprice Maker Select V2 printer? (Wanhao Duplicator i3 clone)


Scott
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on May 17, 2018, 03:23:26 am
I am at work now but when I get home I will load this up in Simplfy3d and see if I get the same results.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on May 17, 2018, 05:26:29 am
Here's a weird one.   :dizzy:

PBJ asked me to print this (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:87920) Bally drop target from thingiverse.

I loaded the STL into Cura and turned it on it's side to reduce the odds of layer separation breaking the spring loop.  (supports and raft enabled)

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=367784;image)

When I tried to print it . . . fail.   :banghead:
(I stopped it at around 75% and removed the raft and supports)

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=367780;image)

The loop part of the model was "negated" (solid center, no loop  :dizzy:) and a slot ran down the middle and cut into the semi-circle under the target.

Re-loaded the model into Cura and normal view looks OK, but layer view shows the "negated" loop and slot down the middle in place of the center ridge.

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=367782;image)

Can anyone duplicate this?

Is this a problem with the model or is it caused by the old version (IIIP-i3?) of Cura that came with my Monoprice Maker Select V2 printer? (Wanhao Duplicator i3 clone)


Scott

Its probably the model, Ive had this issue before where it was caused by un sealed edges.

If you load it into a editor you may be able to repair it.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on May 17, 2018, 11:33:45 am
Yeah the model has the same issue and a few other discrepancies when I load it in Simplfy3d.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on May 17, 2018, 01:00:02 pm
Try this one, I just traced everything from the original in fusion360. It fixed all the weird issues I saw but the circle was still filled in. I change some settings to get the hole to show up. Enabled single outline extrusion.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on May 17, 2018, 02:08:53 pm
Can you add some support to either side of the center ring?  That area was reinforced on the original parts.

(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/GW8AAOSw5cNYGoQd/s-l300.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on May 17, 2018, 02:11:04 pm
Try this one, I just traced everything from the original in fusion360. It fixed all the weird issues I saw but the circle was still filled in. I change some settings to get the hole to show up. Enabled single outline extrusion.
Thanks.   ;D

Normal and layer views are both good -- looks like a winner!   :applaud:   :notworthy:   :applaud:


Scott
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on May 17, 2018, 04:48:52 pm
Can you add some support to either side of the center ring?  That area was reinforced on the original parts.

(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/GW8AAOSw5cNYGoQd/s-l300.jpg)

Done, now that I got it shaped out I can add whatever so get your requests in now.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on May 17, 2018, 05:00:23 pm
Yes... yes... good.... goooooood.

 :cheers:
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on May 17, 2018, 05:28:22 pm
Just finished testing the Version 1 print.

By printing the model on it's side, the spring loop is strong enough to suspend and gently bounce a 5 lb. dumbbell with no problem.   ;D

Version 2 looks even stronger.   :applaud:

I'll print one on it's back and another on it's side to see how they compare.


Scott
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on May 18, 2018, 01:08:05 am
The Version 2 flat and side prints came out great.

The spring loop on both is strong enough to suspend and gently bounce a 5 lb. dumbbell with no problem.   ;D
-----------
I probably should have asked this earlier, but which pinball machine are you repairing?

There are several versions of the Bally drop target.

The model we've been working with is a flat-top (a.k.a. tombstone) version with no spacer nub at the bottom.

The picture you posted is the ramp-top (a.k.a. hood or ledge) version with a spacer nub at the bottom.

Fathom (http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-3944-34SET12), Black Pyramid (http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/DT1082), and Spectrum (http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/DT1690) are the three pins I've found that use the green drop targets you mentioned in a PM -- all three use the ramp-top version.   :dunno


Scott
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on May 18, 2018, 09:39:42 am
Spectrum.   :timebomb:
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on May 19, 2018, 09:18:42 am
Well I finished my design for the TMC speed loader/winder and I have also altered it to fit my T15.

Also printed some extended mag releases for my TPX’s.

Paintball prints seem to be the order of business atm lol
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on May 19, 2018, 12:14:45 pm
Well I finished my design for the TMC speed loader/winder and I have also altered it to fit my T15.

Also printed some extended mag releases for my TPX’s.

Paintball prints seem to be the order of business atm lol

You use tinkercad?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on May 19, 2018, 12:53:17 pm
Well I finished my design for the TMC speed loader/winder and I have also altered it to fit my T15.

Also printed some extended mag releases for my TPX’s.

Paintball prints seem to be the order of business atm lol

You use tinkercad?


Ashamed to say ive been using sketchup lol
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on May 19, 2018, 02:47:11 pm
Well I finished my design for the TMC speed loader/winder and I have also altered it to fit my T15.

Also printed some extended mag releases for my TPX’s.

Paintball prints seem to be the order of business atm lol

You use tinkercad?


Ashamed to say ive been using sketchup lol

I like sketchup wayyyyyy better than tinkercad
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on May 19, 2018, 03:12:04 pm
Well I finished my design for the TMC speed loader/winder and I have also altered it to fit my T15.

Also printed some extended mag releases for my TPX’s.

Paintball prints seem to be the order of business atm lol

You use tinkercad?


Ashamed to say ive been using sketchup lol

I like sketchup wayyyyyy better than tinkercad

So do I but its nowhere near as versatile.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Vigo on May 19, 2018, 08:33:00 pm
Freecad, yo. Freecad.  8)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on May 19, 2018, 11:08:19 pm
Fusion360 is getting easier for me.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: JudgeRob on June 25, 2018, 07:39:08 pm
Just wanted to say thanks for all the contributors to this thread.  I learned a lot plowing through these 19 pages.  I picked up an A8 and am having fun with it.  Still getting through some test pieces and upgrades.   :cheers:
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on June 25, 2018, 07:41:06 pm
Just wanted to say thanks for all the contributors to this thread.  I learned a lot plowing through these 19 pages.  I picked up an A8 and am having fun with it.  Still getting through some test pieces and upgrades.   :cheers:

Same here! This thread was a great resource/kickstarter.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: JudgeRob on June 25, 2018, 08:17:47 pm
I've been obsessed with trying to get the tweaks right with the settings.  Printing lots of tiny stuff.  There's a lot to absorb!  I feel like I should try to set up octoprint before I try anything large. 

And your experiences were especially helpful!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on June 26, 2018, 05:02:00 am
Octoprint is super easy to setup and use. Let me know if you have any questions about it.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: JudgeRob on June 26, 2018, 04:37:16 pm
OK, thanks bud.  I have an old PI first gen collecting dust.  Allegedly it will work, so hopefully it's not too laggy.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Slippyblade on June 26, 2018, 06:45:03 pm
Yeah, basic OctoPrint is dead simple to get going and SOOO worth it.  I love having it.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on June 26, 2018, 06:57:23 pm
Yup octoprint FTW!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: JudgeRob on June 27, 2018, 11:43:43 pm
Anybody have tips for success printing something thinner than 1mm?  Like maybe down to .6mm?  ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- starts to get weird down there...
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on June 28, 2018, 02:46:09 am
Anybody have tips for success printing something thinner than 1mm?  Like maybe down to .6mm?  ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- starts to get weird down there...

What issues are you seeing?

I've been printing custom badge holders which most have very thin text or art work. It took me several passes to figure out the best settings. Fortunately, I use Simplfy3d as my slicer, it has some great options for Thin Walls.

You can try keeping your Nozzle at .40 but change the extrude diameter to .30. Keep in mind that if you cant setup multiple processes per layers then the entire model will print with that setting.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on June 28, 2018, 03:00:49 am
Thin and slow first few layers work well for me with no fan cooling.

I print at 0.2 20mm/s no fan for first 3 layers.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: JudgeRob on June 28, 2018, 11:08:28 pm
The prints are flimsy which is sort of expected at that thinness, but holes in the print and like the nozzle smears it around kind of.  I'll upload some pics. 

I'll try shutting off the fan.  Didn't think to try that...
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: JudgeRob on June 30, 2018, 01:08:36 am
Here's what I'm getting.  The one on the right is closer to 1mm.  Less than that and I get the other results.  (Those are supposed to be Galaga ships)

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=368773;image)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on June 30, 2018, 01:48:39 am
Here's what I'm getting.  The one on the right is closer to 1mm.  Less than that and I get the other results.  (Those are supposed to be Galaga ships)

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=368773;image)


My best guess would be a combination of your nozzle being to far away from the bed and/or your under extruding.

When its putting down the first layer it should be squished right down so the top is flat.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: JudgeRob on June 30, 2018, 01:51:31 am
OK cool, thanks, I'll try some changes.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on June 30, 2018, 02:42:14 pm
Can you go to 0.5mm on your printer?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on June 30, 2018, 03:34:47 pm
I'm no expert, but just looks like a bad first layer to me.  First thing to check would be the level of the bed.
Looks like the nozzle is too high or the filament isn't melted enough.

I don't have the same printer, but have a .4mm nozzle and my first layer is .3mm.
Check the first layer settings in the advanced tab of Cura.
There is also a setting for initial line width there.  (mine is set to 100%).

You can see the lines on mine, but gaps are rare.
I sometimes print thin .5mm breakaway tabs to hold smaller prints down and they always come out solid.

EDIT: print speed is set to 40 and bottom layer speed (under advanced) is set to 20.
I think I usually print stuff faster than this, but those are the settings currently in there.

http://youtu.be/RZRY6kunAvs?t=2m30s (http://youtu.be/RZRY6kunAvs?t=2m30s)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on July 23, 2018, 06:29:03 pm
Finally got around to these projects.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180723/9ab7feebfc8769a63ddcb633b7a10fed.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180723/b2529f8f34a69d46d3527b17468918ce.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180723/9b9ec90d8cc8e9e5bab7b8089c7feb60.jpg)

Sent from my Life One X2 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on July 24, 2018, 04:05:16 am
Got some stuff from Ikea to make a full room desk for the printers and PC.
And started a large Vegeta model.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180724/b82c4ae3efaeebae29a4dd9d066c5504.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180724/b0d469de7b01d5a69ae8229f6d7d1f16.jpg)

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on July 24, 2018, 07:18:30 am
That looks really cool, Nice print
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: jdbailey1206 on July 24, 2018, 07:37:56 am
05SRT4 can you print me a dog like you have in your picture?  How long did he take to print?  I like the model.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on July 24, 2018, 07:44:26 am
05SRT4 can you print me a dog like you have in your picture?  How long did he take to print?  I like the model.

120 lb Daniff, its gonna take some time.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 01, 2019, 01:21:22 pm
We had “The Grammys” as the theme at work for our department Halloween costume, so I printed these bad boys.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191101/4b72f8ed4da6299af12865892b48b2ae.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191101/90b4febdcfc18ddf815bb5eecff64664.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191101/a199abdb56f932759be60767abba3ba0.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Mr. Peabody on November 03, 2019, 12:46:57 pm
We had “The Grammys” as the theme at work for our department Halloween costume, so I printed these bad boys.

Look copper/bronze. Did you paint those?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 03, 2019, 12:52:37 pm
nice gram gramsa
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 03, 2019, 02:38:21 pm
We had “The Grammys” as the theme at work for our department Halloween costume, so I printed these bad boys.

Look copper/bronze. Did you paint those?

I used Geetech Gold silk PLA. The stuff has a beautiful sheen/shine to it, as you can see!

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191103/7ce6ea692b2b64b2dd22dfc167694548.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Mike A on November 05, 2019, 07:06:06 am
That is cool. You should hang that around your neck with a big ass gold chain and a clock.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Vigo on November 05, 2019, 05:18:33 pm
Tomorrow I am getting an U-P-G-R-A-Y-E-D-D! (Spelt thusly with two D's for a double dose of pimpin')


Time to say goodbye to the old Da Vinci.

(https://cdn.pricespy.co.nz/product/standard/800/4007821.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 05, 2019, 05:35:43 pm
Tomorrow I am getting an U-P-G-R-A-Y-E-D-D! (Spelt thusly with two D's for a double dose of pimpin')


Time to say goodbye to the old Da Vinci.

(https://cdn.pricespy.co.nz/product/standard/800/4007821.jpg)

What chu gettin’ Shaft?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: opt2not on November 05, 2019, 05:40:02 pm
So which one of you 3D Print studs wanna print me up this badass Metal Slug Tank?   :laugh:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2301417


Ooooooh, there are Robotron prints too! (though not very detailed)

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2606181
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Vigo on November 05, 2019, 07:40:18 pm
What chu gettin’ Shaft?

A sovol SV01. Supposedly a new offshoot brand from Creality, not much exposure right now, but it is suppose to be like a cr-10 mini with a few key upgrades and a direct drive extruder instead of Bowden.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Vigo on November 05, 2019, 07:45:55 pm
That tank looks awesome :cheers:
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: opt2not on November 05, 2019, 08:14:21 pm
That tank looks awesome :cheers:

Hook a brother up! :D
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Vigo on November 05, 2019, 10:12:15 pm
Hey, if the printer I am getting does the trick, I might just do that.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: opt2not on November 05, 2019, 11:53:24 pm
 :notworthy:
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on November 09, 2019, 10:12:09 am
So which one of you 3D Print studs wanna print me up this badass Metal Slug Tank?   :laugh:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2301417


Ooooooh, there are Robotron prints too! (though not very detailed)

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2606181

how big?
at a little over 5" tall it'll be a 24hr print.
I can give it a shot during the week when I don't care if the printer is tied up.
I did a test print with some cheap crappy brittle PLA that breaks during printing.
not too bad.

FYI Tree supports....love them.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: opt2not on November 09, 2019, 11:01:30 am
5” tall would totally be big enough.  :applaud:  :D
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on November 11, 2019, 07:11:35 am
I printed the slug tank last year.

Loved it!

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191111/3513491cc2265c3cae496114f33a425c.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on November 11, 2019, 10:36:53 am
I've always gotten bored around level 3 and never actually finished a Metal Slug game.

 :dunno
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 11, 2019, 03:00:35 pm
So I ended up getting a Resin printer. Anycubic Photon (https://www.anycubic.com/products/anycubic-photon-3d-printer).

(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0245/5519/2380/files/PHOTON-03.jpg?1408)

If anyone has questions about it let me know. Main things to note:

Smell is terrible, you cannot be in the same room with it. I printed a huge carbon filter which helped tremendously but you can still tell.

Clean up is a bit annoying, but once you have a nice setup its not that bad, basically gloves, 2 bath buckets of Isopropyl alcohol and a Curing station.

Post clean up is so much better, just pull off supports and a very little bit of sanding depending on how the supports came off.

Latest print: Zero sanding, just washed and cured. Detail is amazing
(https://i.imgur.com/v9GwMLL.jpg)

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 11, 2019, 03:01:53 pm
Ill try the tank, but maybe a little key-chain version.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: opt2not on November 11, 2019, 03:15:40 pm
I've always gotten bored around level 3 and never actually finished a Metal Slug game.

 :dunno
Credit feeding? Or on 1 credit?
I find the game is a lot more fun if you're not credit feeding it, and actually trying to save as many Prisoners as possible.  There are big bonus points to be had when saving those guys at the end of the level.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on November 11, 2019, 04:44:53 pm
I printed the slug tank last year.

Loved it!

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191111/3513491cc2265c3cae496114f33a425c.jpg)

We need to find a cheap rc tank for a base and make a slug army.  :)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on November 11, 2019, 07:04:35 pm
I printed the slug tank last year.

Loved it!

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191111/3513491cc2265c3cae496114f33a425c.jpg)

settings?

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on November 11, 2019, 07:04:59 pm
I printed the slug tank last year.

Loved it!

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191111/3513491cc2265c3cae496114f33a425c.jpg)

that looks solid.

settings?

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on November 11, 2019, 07:12:25 pm
So I ended up getting a Resin printer. Anycubic Photon (https://www.anycubic.com/products/anycubic-photon-3d-printer).

(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0245/5519/2380/files/PHOTON-03.jpg?1408)

If anyone has questions about it let me know. Main things to note:

Smell is terrible, you cannot be in the same room with it. I printed a huge carbon filter which helped tremendously but you can still tell.

Clean up is a bit annoying, but once you have a nice setup its not that bad, basically gloves, 2 bath buckets of Isopropyl alcohol and a Curing station.

Post clean up is so much better, just pull off supports and a very little bit of sanding depending on how the supports came off.

Latest print: Zero sanding, just washed and cured. Detail is amazing
(https://i.imgur.com/v9GwMLL.jpg)

I was looking at these, but the new ones are totally new and the intertubes is pissed off over it.
new control board, newish design and models of old photon are not compatible.
which, if you never owned one doesn't matter I believe.
I don't need one but i expect i'll get one eventually just because.

but damn.
can't even come close to that detail with a .4mm nozzle and .16 layer height.
might come close with a .2mm nozzle but it will take a whole lot longer to print it i'm guessing.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 11, 2019, 07:29:07 pm
That model was printed with a .05 layer height, super smooth.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on November 12, 2019, 03:09:10 am
I printed the slug tank last year.

Loved it!

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191111/3513491cc2265c3cae496114f33a425c.jpg)

that looks solid.

settings?

I printed it last year so dont remember the exact settings but I usually print with a 0.4 nozzle at .12 layer height.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 12, 2019, 12:50:22 pm
Printed waaay to small, but still crazy how some of the detail still stands out.

(https://i.imgur.com/09cOiE8.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on November 12, 2019, 01:22:25 pm
Man you are really selling me on a resin printer.  I think with tweaking I can achieve that level of detail, but the striation marks would be really pronounced, which kind of ruins it depending upon the model. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Vigo on November 12, 2019, 04:54:54 pm
They are gettin' affordable! Great option for hobbyists in the tabletop and modeling hobbies, it is pretty much cheaper to go with a resin printer to make figures than buying them to paint.

I know I would have bought one already had my original filament printer not kicked the bucket.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on November 12, 2019, 11:39:59 pm
I printed the slug tank last year.

Loved it!

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191111/3513491cc2265c3cae496114f33a425c.jpg)

that looks solid.

settings?

I printed it last year so dont remember the exact settings but I usually print with a 0.4 nozzle at .12 layer height.

how big is that and how long did it take to print?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on November 13, 2019, 01:53:55 am
I printed the slug tank last year.

Loved it!

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191111/3513491cc2265c3cae496114f33a425c.jpg)

that looks solid.

settings?

I printed it last year so dont remember the exact settings but I usually print with a 0.4 nozzle at .12 layer height.

how big is that and how long did it take to print?

Its about 4” high, I printed it as individual parts and stuck it all together.

Afraid I cant recall the exact print time but I did it over a weekend so about 2 days butbI dont print over night.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on November 13, 2019, 06:30:04 am
I printed the slug tank last year.

Loved it!

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191111/3513491cc2265c3cae496114f33a425c.jpg)

that looks solid.

settings?

I printed it last year so dont remember the exact settings but I usually print with a 0.4 nozzle at .12 layer height.

how big is that and how long did it take to print?

Its about 4” high, I printed it as individual parts and stuck it all together.

Afraid I cant recall the exact print time but I did it over a weekend so about 2 days butbI dont print over night.

sounds about right.
there is a two piece version I may try.
the 5 multi-part wasn't lining up for me and the single piece is looking like support removal hell.


Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on November 13, 2019, 07:10:03 am
I printed the slug tank last year.

Loved it!

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191111/3513491cc2265c3cae496114f33a425c.jpg)

that looks solid.

settings?

I printed it last year so dont remember the exact settings but I usually print with a 0.4 nozzle at .12 layer height.

how big is that and how long did it take to print?

Its about 4” high, I printed it as individual parts and stuck it all together.

Afraid I cant recall the exact print time but I did it over a weekend so about 2 days butbI dont print over night.

sounds about right.
there is a two piece version I may try.
the 5 multi-part wasn't lining up for me and the single piece is looking like support removal hell.

Yeah if I recall the tank base was 2 parts top n bottom, The gun was 2 parts front and back, Then there was wheels left and right and the 2 mini guns.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on November 13, 2019, 09:10:50 am
Titch - thanks for confirming.
I relooked are the 5 or 6 piece stls I printed and figured out why they didn’t fit.

The scaling is off between track and body. Not sure what I did wrong.
So I’ll go back and scale all the parts together.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on November 13, 2019, 09:18:12 am
Titch - thanks for confirming.
I relooked are the 5 or 6 piece stls I printed and figured out why they didn’t fit.

The scaling is off between track and body. Not sure what I did wrong.
So I’ll go back and scale all the parts together.

That’l do it heh.

Yeah I cant remember what I scaled it down by but as long as they all the same it should fit golden.

Just fare warning getting some of the supports out of the thing was a real PITA!!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 13, 2019, 01:04:17 pm
Slightly larger, different model from what opt2not is asking for. Looking at the one he asked for seems like a post print nightmare.

(https://i.imgur.com/SW5UyKS.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/c2EKRC2.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: opt2not on November 13, 2019, 01:10:00 pm
That looks awesome!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 13, 2019, 01:45:31 pm
im down to print a bigger one if you want that style
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on November 13, 2019, 10:46:06 pm
Slightly larger, different model from what opt2not is asking for. Looking at the one he asked for seems like a post print nightmare.


if it were to be printed in half or one piece I think so.
tree supports aren't too bad though.
You will be able to get him a much nicer print for sure.

i'm going to clean that crappy yellow filament out of my extruder teeth and give it a shot at a smaller size like 3 1/2 inches long.
also, I just upgraded my PC from 8gb to 16gb and yeah, stuff slices so much faster.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: opt2not on November 13, 2019, 10:52:39 pm
im down to print a bigger one if you want that style
Sure! I’d love one.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Osirus23 on November 14, 2019, 01:20:03 pm
That little tank is amazing. The rifling inside the main cannon, the individual barrels of the machine guns, wow.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 15, 2019, 11:30:52 am
im down to print a bigger one if you want that style
Sure! I’d love one.

PM me where this is going.

(https://i.imgur.com/asSo1SM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CNQ7veo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/neFzM0F.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Titchgamer on November 15, 2019, 11:34:03 am
Noice :)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Vigo on November 15, 2019, 04:07:05 pm
Looks great!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on November 15, 2019, 09:20:43 pm
those look amazing.
how long to print?
after many issues with my hot end i'm starting to print parts for this now.
got some nice shiny silver filament.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: opt2not on November 15, 2019, 10:22:20 pm
PM me where this is going.

PM sent!  :cheers:
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on November 16, 2019, 08:33:45 am
those look amazing.
how long to print?
after many issues with my hot end i'm starting to print parts for this now.
got some nice shiny silver filament.

The largest one was 7 hours.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on November 16, 2019, 10:02:00 am
those look amazing.
how long to print?
after many issues with my hot end i'm starting to print parts for this now.
got some nice shiny silver filament.

The largest one was 7 hours.

LOL!
20hrs on mine at .16 mm layer height at default size.
each section is taking 3.5 hrs min. for me.


Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on December 16, 2019, 01:16:09 pm
So this came out better than expected.
Too bad I printed it with supports on the bottom that won’t fricken come off.
Reprinting upside down with tree supports.
Generating then in meshmixer took about 45 mins.
Then slicing it in Slic3r took almost an hr.
Had to slow down support speed to 30 mm so they don’t get knocked over.

I found some models for modding an N64 case with usb front connectors, feet, switch ect and a tray for the rpi4.
I didn't have an n64 case and busted n64's are $25 on ebay. I call that plan B.
however I had already bought that lime green spool for $12 shipped on sale and the kids loved the color so i found an n64 model and printing that.
it isn't 100% accurate (off a few mm) so i need to do some adjustments on the fitted parts.


Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on December 21, 2019, 12:35:20 pm
Success!
though i'm wearing gloves for removing supports from the top piece.
Had to use a needle nose and channel locks to remove them and that plastic is sharp.
chewed up my fingers.

Think i'll start a project thread now.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on July 28, 2020, 06:55:50 pm
Sure would be cool if someone could print me one of these.....


https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3927079
 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3927079)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on July 29, 2020, 02:08:35 am
Sure would be cool if someone could print me one of these.....


https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3927079
 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3927079)

Seems easy enough, ill PM you once its done. I'm assuming you want it in Black?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on July 29, 2020, 08:08:17 am
Hold off, I think I suckered PL1 into doing it. 

 :cheers:
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on July 29, 2020, 10:47:11 am
Sure would be cool if someone could print me one of these.....


https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3927079
 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3927079)
Here's a modded version of the base for anyone wanting one without the button hole.
- The button is for the Rhea or Phoebe Saturn Optical Drive Emulators, not the Fenrir.

OpenSCAD code for the remix:
Code: [Select]
// Saturn Fenrir ODE (Optical Drive Emulator) Base

// Plugs unnecessary button hole in original base.

// Remix of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3927079 by Zitruskeks

/////////////////////////////
// Define variables
/////////////////////////////
basethick = 6.4;

// Number of fragments (polygon sides) used to render a full circle.
    $fn = 180; // Default = 180  Typical range = 6 - 360
    // 6 will render a circular hole as a hexagon, 8 will render a circular hole as an octagon.
    // Lower the number for faster rendering, raise the number for smoother rendering.

/////////////////////////////
//  Make the part
/////////////////////////////

// Import .stl
import("Base.stl"); // The .stl filename is case sensitive and the file must be in same folder as this OpenSCAD file

color("gray")
translate([19.6, -28, basethick/2])
cylinder(basethick,d=10.2,center=true); // Plug the button hole


Scott
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on July 29, 2020, 07:11:51 pm
Ah, so it is using one of those SD cables with the screw mounts.  Glad I didn’t order one just yet, though i suspect if you crack open the plastic case found on some of them, you find the screw mount version inside.

Anyway, purpose of this is to move the SD card slot to a more reasonable position, reduce wear and tear on the optical drive emulator micro sd port, and plug up the gaping hole left when you remove the CD drive.


Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on July 29, 2020, 10:11:21 pm
Ah, so it is using one of those SD cables with the screw mounts.  Glad I didn’t order one just yet, though i suspect if you crack open the plastic case found on some of them, you find the screw mount version inside.
The guy that posted the model on Thingiverse described the extender he used as "a 25cm one" -- no links or pics.   ::)

The screw holes in the base align with screw holes in the edges of the cover. (34mm center-to-center)

The hollow under the cover is 30mm wide x 37mm deep x 4mm tall.

I have an SD card extender like the pic below, but the plastic case makes it too tall to work with the cover.   :banghead:
- Looks like the cover was designed for a low-profile regular-size SD card holder.
- Not sure if he used something like this one (https://www.amazon.com/Extension-Adapter-Flexible-Extender-UHS-III/dp/B088NNVWQ8/) that has no case or decased one like mine.   :dunno

(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61HXoyQv4PL._AC_SL1200_.jpg)

If you can't find an extender that works with the cover dimensions listed above, it shouldn't be too hard to make a custom cover.


Scott
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on July 29, 2020, 11:28:05 pm
I'm pretty sure on the dreamcast versions of these prints you take the cover off the extender but I'm not 100% sure. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on August 03, 2020, 05:37:23 pm
Since the SD card extender I mentioned above is too big to fit without decasing, here's a cover for MicroSD card extenders like this one (https://www.amazon.com/LANMU-Extension-MicroSDHC-Monoprice-Raspberry/dp/B07WWVBK8V/) (7.5") or this one (https://www.amazon.com/LANMU-Extension-Extender-MicroSDHC-Raspberry/dp/B01D9J8KQE/). (19")

(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61YntwHCOzL._AC_SL1200_.jpg)

The .zip file contains the STL file and the OpenSCAD, DXF, logo image, and Inkscape files along with directions on how to vectorize a logo for OpenSCAD if you want to customize yours.

The OpenSCAD file is fully commented and parametric so you can easily customize the cover by changing the associated variable(s) -- no programming ability needed.   ;D

Print the cover with the small, flat back side down with no supports. (i.e. rotate -90 degrees on the X-axis.)

This cover is about 3mm taller than the original, but it should still fit inside with the CD lid closed.

Code: [Select]
// Saturn Fenrir ODE (Optical Drive Emulator) Micro SD Extender Cover

// Original cover hollow was the wrong size for many commonly available extenders.

// This remake cover is designed to work with the ODE base from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3927079 by Zitruskeks

// Logo exported from Inkscape to .dxf file using https://github.com/brad/Inkscape-OpenSCAD-DXF-Export

/////////////////////////////
// Define variables
/////////////////////////////
CoverX = 38.4; // Overall width of the case

CoverY = 40.7; // Overall depth of the case

CoverZ = 9; // Overall height of the case

ScrewHoleOffset = 21; // Distance from back of case to center of screw holes

ScrewHoleWidth = 34; // Center-to-center distance between holes

ScrewHoleDia = 2.5; // Screw hole diameter

CaseX = 25; // Overall width of the extender case

CaseY = 33; // Overall depth of the extender case

CaseZ = 7.4; // Overall Height of the extender case

CornerDia = 6; // Corner diameter on the extender case

CaseOffset = 0.1; // Distance the extender case protrudes beyond the cover

RibbonWidth = 21; // Ribbon cable width

RibbonDepth = 6; // Y-axis distance to allow ribbon cable to bend

LogoX = 32.15; //Logo X-axis size

LogoY = 21.7; //Logo Y-axis size

LogoDepth = 0.5; // Depth of the logo

CurveDia = 40; // Diameter of the front curve

CurveOffset = 32.5; // Distance past the front edge of the cover to place the front curve cylinder

// Number of fragments (polygon sides) used to render a full circle.
    $fn = 180; // Default = 180  Typical range = 6 - 360
    // 6 will render a circular hole as a hexagon, 8 will render a circular hole as an octagon.
    // Lower the number for faster rendering, raise the number for smoother rendering.

/////////////////////////////
//  Make the part
/////////////////////////////

difference(){ // Cover minus Saturn Logo, screw holes, extender case, ribbon cable space, and front curve

// Cover
    translate ([0, -CoverY/2, CoverZ/2])
    cube ([CoverX, CoverY, CoverZ], center=true);
    //

// Saturn Logo (Optional)
    // Comment out the next four lines to skip the logo.
    translate([-LogoX/2, -CoverY/2 - LogoY/2, CoverZ - LogoDepth + 0.01])
    resize(newsize=[LogoX ,LogoY ,LogoDepth])
    linear_extrude(height = LogoDepth, convexity = 10)
    import(file = "Saturn_Logo.dxf", layer="Logo"); // Saturn logo
    // The "Saturn_Logo.dxf" file needs to be in the same directory as this OpenSCAD file.
   
// Screw holes
    translate([-ScrewHoleWidth/2, -ScrewHoleOffset, CoverZ/4])
    cylinder (CoverZ/2 + 0.1, d = ScrewHoleDia, center=true); // Left screw hole

    translate([ScrewHoleWidth/2, -ScrewHoleOffset, CoverZ/4])
    cylinder (CoverZ/2 + 0.1, d = ScrewHoleDia, center=true); // Right screw hole

// Extender case
    hull() {
        translate([CaseX/2 - CornerDia/2, -CoverY + CaseY  - CornerDia/2 - CaseOffset, CaseZ/2])
        cylinder (CaseZ + 0.01, d = CornerDia, center=true); // Back right corner

        translate([CaseX/2 - CornerDia/2, -CoverY + CornerDia/2 - CaseOffset, CaseZ/2])
        cylinder (CaseZ + 0.01, d = CornerDia, center=true); // Front right corner

        translate([-CaseX/2 + CornerDia/2, -CoverY + CornerDia/2 - CaseOffset, CaseZ/2])
        cylinder (CaseZ + 0.01, d = CornerDia, center=true); // Front left corner

        translate([-CaseX/2 + CornerDia/2, -CoverY + CaseY  - CornerDia/2 - CaseOffset, CaseZ/2])
        cylinder (CaseZ + 0.01, d = CornerDia, center=true); // Back left corner

    } // End extender case

// Ribbon cable space
    translate ([0, -CoverY + CaseY + RibbonDepth/2 - CaseOffset - 0.1, CaseZ/2])
    cube ([RibbonWidth, RibbonDepth, CaseZ + 0.01], center=true);

// Front curve
        translate([0, -CoverY - CurveOffset/2, CoverZ/2])
        cylinder (CoverZ + 0.1, d = CurveDia, center=true);

} // End difference
//


Scott
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on August 08, 2020, 12:16:05 pm
After a lot of trial and error I have a refurb monoprice mini delta with a glass bed and a .2mm nozzle printing up some decent quality mini's in PLA.
I made a bunch up to use with Dungeon! Classic board game from early 90's.



Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on August 08, 2020, 07:58:14 pm
Had to take a soldering iron and hobby knife to it, but got it mounted.  Holes were a little too tight, and there’s some alignment pegs on the case that were blocking it.  I think the original author snapped his off or maybe his console revision didn’t have them.  So I melted out a notch and waved the shaft around in the holes to widen them and good to go.  I tacked it to the case with a few drops of hot glue, and used two tall mounting posts in the back and two short ones up front.  Used 2 8mm M3 screws to hold the SD card cable housing to the plate.

You have to twist the SD cable to get it turned the right way internally but no big deal.

Looks great and will protect my internals and keeps my hands off the Fenrir.

Thanks, PL1.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on August 08, 2020, 09:00:51 pm
Glad to assist and glad to see that the taller cover still fits under the CD lid.   :cheers:

Had to take a soldering iron and hobby knife to it, but got it mounted.  Holes were a little too tight, and there’s some alignment pegs on the case that were blocking it.  I think the original author snapped his off or maybe his console revision didn’t have them.  So I melted out a notch and waved the shaft around in the holes to widen them and good to go.
If anyone printing their own has this problem, LMK how much larger the holes need to be and measurements for where and how big to make the alignment notch.

I'll update the OpenSCAD code here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,152421.msg1719622.html#msg1719622) with easy-to-adjust variables for modifying the original base.   ;D


Scott
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on August 08, 2020, 11:15:31 pm
I started out with good intentions and my drill press, but I was afraid I was going to blow out the edges of 3 of the holes so I went to the soldering iron.  I’d make the holes bigger and expand them inward.  It’s not much.  I have no idea how you’re supposed to put it all back together without securing the insert to the top case first.  Probably just a little masking tape would have been fine as it’s really clamped in tight once the case is screwed together.

 :cheers:
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on August 09, 2020, 12:26:56 am
I’d make the holes bigger and expand them inward.
It'll be easy to reverse engineer the current X/Y position and size for the four mount holes -- then anyone can adjust those variables as needed, render, and export as an STL file.   ;D

I can guesstimate, but the three measurements I'd need to make the notch accurately are:
  1. The X-axis distance from the right edge of the base to the right edge of the notch.
  2. The X-axis width of the notch.
  3. The Y-axis depth of the notch.


Scott
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on August 21, 2020, 11:29:00 pm
Anyone bored and want to print something?  It’d be a whole lot cooler if you did.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4541111 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4541111)

 :dunno
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on August 22, 2020, 08:55:40 am
Anyone bored and want to print something?  It’d be a whole lot cooler if you did.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4541111 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4541111)

 :dunno

does it matter what color?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on August 23, 2020, 02:00:07 am
Anyone bored and want to print something?  It’d be a whole lot cooler if you did.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4541111 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4541111)

 :dunno

does it matter what color?

Never-mind you're getting a white and a grey one. Still at the same address?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on August 23, 2020, 08:24:18 am
Yes, but I think PL1 printed me one already.  You guys are too generous.

Maybe we can do a 3D printer showdown and see which one my gameboy likes better.

 :lol
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on November 27, 2020, 12:07:34 pm
Stretched the bed of my monoprice mini.  Waiting for the mailman to bring a longer belt today.  Original bed will attach to adjuster screws shown.  Piece of glass cut from scrap will go on top to print longer stuff when needed.  Spent about $25 including the epoxy to attach the bed halves to some small J channel. Might spend a couple more on nuts and bolts to make thumb screw adjusters.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201127/67539df6892375118745a6f53dcc3ac9.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on November 27, 2020, 03:12:04 pm
Nice, I need to repair the auto that leveling sensor that I bought about a year ago. It works great, but I need to change the sensor and I’m missing a replacement screw terminal.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on November 28, 2020, 10:34:11 am
Stretched the bed of my monoprice mini.  Waiting for the mailman to bring a longer belt today.  Original bed will attach to adjuster screws shown.  Piece of glass cut from scrap will go on top to print longer stuff when needed.  Spent about $25 including the epoxy to attach the bed halves to some small J channel. Might spend a couple more on nuts and bolts to make thumb screw adjusters.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201127/67539df6892375118745a6f53dcc3ac9.jpg)

do you need to adjust the dimensions in the firmware or doe that get handled in the slicer?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on November 28, 2020, 01:54:44 pm
do you need to adjust the dimensions in the firmware or doe that get handled in the slicer?

Don't need to mess with the firmware.
Dimensions are adjusted under machine settings in Cura.
(Point of origin set by limit switches on machine, then dimensions in each direction from there are whatever is entered in Cura.)

While using the stock heated bed, I have a magnet stuck to the underside to trip the y-axis limit switch at the front edge of the shorter bed instead of where the longer glass bed would be. 

The only PITA thing with this setup is the height change when stacking the glass plate on top.
Either the adjuster screws will have to be tightened down and re-leveled to lower the glass to the current height, or I'll have to rig up some type of spacer or adjuster on the z-axis limit switch.

I may end up just making a full length bed out of metal, but I suck at working with metal and don't want to spend money on an additional bed heater.

I am no expert on 3D printing stuff.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on December 01, 2020, 12:32:34 pm
do you need to adjust the dimensions in the firmware or doe that get handled in the slicer?

Don't need to mess with the firmware.
Dimensions are adjusted under machine settings in Cura.
(Point of origin set by limit switches on machine, then dimensions in each direction from there are whatever is entered in Cura.)

While using the stock heated bed, I have a magnet stuck to the underside to trip the y-axis limit switch at the front edge of the shorter bed instead of where the longer glass bed would be. 

The only PITA thing with this setup is the height change when stacking the glass plate on top.
Either the adjuster screws will have to be tightened down and re-leveled to lower the glass to the current height, or I'll have to rig up some type of spacer or adjuster on the z-axis limit switch.

I may end up just making a full length bed out of metal, but I suck at working with metal and don't want to spend money on an additional bed heater.

I am no expert on 3D printing stuff.

I'm not familiar with this printer.
I have the mini delta and it has true auto leveling so when I put glass on the metal bed after the sticker tore it wasn't an issue.
didn't know the other mini was different.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on December 17, 2020, 08:48:13 am
What are people using for adhesion/build surfaces these days?

I don't print a whole lot and have been using PEI on a heated bed.  Did a lot of printing recently and my prints are no longer sticking.  After getting nowhere with a lot of unnecessary bed leveling & heat level experimenting I'm thinking my year old PEI sheet may be shot.  Everything prints fine on painters tape.

So should I buy another sheet of PEI, or are there better alternatives now?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on December 17, 2020, 10:34:17 am
In the end Blue Painters tapes always win for me
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on December 17, 2020, 11:34:42 am
purple gluestick is my go to as all my beds are glass.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on December 17, 2020, 11:30:50 pm
purple gluestick is my go to as all my beds are glass.
Does the glass start to splinter? I’ve read that.

I think my PEI sheet is ready to give up the ghost soon as well. Considering going to glass myself.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on December 18, 2020, 12:56:05 am
I tried glass but quickly gave up.... my problem was things stuck too well..... I couldn't get them removed and I eventually cracked it.  It was just a cheap piece of scrap glass though, nothing specialized for a 3d printer. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on December 18, 2020, 12:41:38 pm
I’m going to do a complete tear down and upgrade of my 3D printer. Replacing the hot end, installing a glass bed, wire wrapping loose wires, installing a new aluminum Y carriage, and replacing the belts. Still rocking the Anet A8 - would like to get another year or so out of it before I look to upgrade. It’s been a workhorse and served me well so far.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on December 18, 2020, 12:42:34 pm
I tried glass but quickly gave up.... my problem was things stuck too well..... I couldn't get them removed and I eventually cracked it.  It was just a cheap piece of scrap glass though, nothing specialized for a 3d printer.
I ordered something specialized for a printer - we’ll see how it does.

Best upgrade I ever did was the auto bed leveling sensor.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on December 20, 2020, 01:02:28 am
First steps - replace the original janky y carriage with a new sleek one piece model:

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201220/cb2a04915e8e7594c25fb38b7aac9489.jpg)

Love the new one:

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201220/1280084e1aa2b7ff28d73958de0a0899.jpg)

Added the new glass bed as well.

Before:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201220/6ca01788845fb1decdec3caebd501227.jpg)

After:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201220/2d859f4f0953cc67659104f52e9d4b32.jpg)

I also swapped the belts as well and did some cable management. Still waiting for the new hotend so I can button this up.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on December 20, 2020, 07:50:45 pm
Nozzle in, test print run, everything looks good. Here she goes!

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201221/d9b983c89ce1beae693c75d66d59b178.jpg)


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on December 21, 2020, 12:40:54 am
First real test print - nice results!

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201221/247b7b42e8fe03a697c39dd0deb91ee4.jpg)


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Osirus23 on December 21, 2020, 10:25:40 am
.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on December 21, 2020, 12:12:04 pm
Nice! We need official BYOAC Dickbutts.
Actually, I’ve been handing them out to BYOACERS at ZapCon for years. That and Adventure dragons. Printing a Grundle as we speak, actually!


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on December 24, 2020, 10:11:16 am
purple gluestick is my go to as all my beds are glass.
Does the glass start to splinter? I’ve read that.

I think my PEI sheet is ready to give up the ghost soon as well. Considering going to glass myself.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I honestly have no idea how people splinter the glass beds.
Are they just trying to tear the model off with enough strength to lift the printer?

I just take a metal putty knife, slip it under one corner and give it a little nudge, then do the same thing on another corner and they usually just pop off.
my large Chiron has a dimpled bed so when it cools it usually takes care of breaking the model loose.
PET-G gives me the most trouble.

my straight glass bed on my mini sometimes doesn't want to let go but it's small so i just put it in the freezer for a bit and it pops off.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on December 24, 2020, 10:17:30 am
First real test print - nice results!

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201221/247b7b42e8fe03a697c39dd0deb91ee4.jpg)


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that's a good flat print.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on December 24, 2020, 10:39:56 am
A friend who does property management found an XYZ Da Vinci Jr abandoned in an apartment.
this is a printer with NFC tagged filament.
costs about $40 for a 500kg roll.
so I can see why it was abandoned.

it actually prints pretty good and is fully enclosed.
I have an NFC tag writer and tags so i'm either going to try and follow the instructions for spoofing the tags or replace the board with something that doesn't require tags.
the manufacturer does sell an NFC tag of their own to unlock the printer but for almost $70 shipped and nope'd right out of that option.

this printer will go on the shelf until i figure out what I want to do with it.
may even just replace the board.
will take a lot of splicing though because the xyz doesn't use standard connectors.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on December 24, 2020, 10:34:00 pm
A friend who does property management found an XYZ Da Vinci Jr abandoned in an apartment.
this is a printer with NFC tagged filament.
costs about $40 for a 500kg roll.
so I can see why it was abandoned.

it actually prints pretty good and is fully enclosed.
I have an NFC tag writer and tags so i'm either going to try and follow the instructions for spoofing the tags or replace the board with something that doesn't require tags.
the manufacturer does sell an NFC tag of their own to unlock the printer but for almost $70 shipped and nope'd right out of that option.

this printer will go on the shelf until i figure out what I want to do with it.
may even just replace the board.
will take a lot of splicing though because the xyz doesn't use standard connectors.
Nice! Always fun to tinker!


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Title: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on December 24, 2020, 10:38:44 pm
Working on a personal project, just finished the prototype...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201225/ae2a814dbf910e96ac810096117eaabc.jpg)

The final version will be printed in wood. I need to adjust the size of the holes. But this print was good for me to break in all the new changes.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on December 25, 2020, 02:00:09 am
How much were your upgrades total?  I want to get mine back online (needs a new table) and I might as well do improvements as I go. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on December 25, 2020, 12:30:29 pm
How much were your upgrades total?  I want to get mine back online (needs a new table) and I might as well do improvements as I go.
Good question. Here’s a list of the upgrades:

Gulfcoast Robotics Y CARRIAGE ANODIZED ALUMINUM PLATE

$21.99

https://gulfcoast-robotics.com/collections/anet-a8-upgrades-and-parts/products/anet-a8-a6-3d-printers-upgrade-y-carriage-anodized-aluminum-plate

3D Printing GT2 Timing Belt, Zeelo 5 Meters (16.4ft) GT2 Open Timing Belt 2mm Pitch 6mm Width Rubber Fiberglass Fit for RepRap Prusa Mendel Rostock CR-10 Ender 3 3D Printers - Black

$8.99

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0897CJKS1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_dbI5FbR2EDZD8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Those two items I bought a few years ago but didn’t actually do the upgrades until I got the items below.

HAWKUNG 3D Printer Glass Bed, 220x 220x 4 mm Upgraded 3D Printer Platform Tempered Glass Plate Build Surface with 4 Clips for Heated Bed

$10.99 (it’s now at $12.99)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HMSG639/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_W2H5Fb3ASWT05?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

(4) SWISS MOUNTING CLIPS FOR BOROSILICATE GLASS BEDS

$1.99

https://gulfcoast-robotics.com/products/4-swiss-mounting-clips-for-borosilicate-glass-bed?_pos=1&_sid=8423009b6&_ss=r

Aibecy DIY Hot End Kit 0.4mm Nozzle & M6 30mm Extruder Throat & 12V 40W Heater & NTC 3950 Thermistor & Aluminum Heater Block for RapRep i3 Anet A2 A8 3D Printer Replacement

$9.99

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0718WYN5R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_e5H5FbRGH7P8A?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Ewigkeit MK8 Silicone Sock Heater Block Cover MK7/8/9 Hotend for Creality CR-10,10S,Ender 3,Anet A8 3D Printer(not Include Heater Block))

$6.29

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NWKXJD6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_05H5Fb0S52B57?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

XHF 4mm(Wrapping Range:1.5mm-10mm) Spiral Cable Wrap Spiral Wire Wrap Cord for Computer Electrical Wire Organizer Sleeve Hose RoHS Black (Dia 4MM Length 20M)

$7.99

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JNRL843/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_Q6H5Fb29K1H45?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

The upgrades were triggered when this automatic bed leveling sensor went out and I needed to replace it:

Baomain Capacitance Proximity Sensor Switch LJC18A3-B-Z/BX NPN NO DC 6-36V 300mA 1-10mm

$9.99

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C57A80M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_LeI5Fb4C6K8V7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon no longer sells the actual kit I bought, which is too bad because it made bed leveling easy.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on December 25, 2020, 04:53:58 pm
All good info, thanks. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on January 07, 2021, 06:03:11 pm
Slicer of choice?

I've just been using an older version of Cura that came with my printer.  Tried the newest version, but had better results with the old one.

An issue has surfaced that I believe is caused by underextrusion following a long unnecessary travel path taken by Cura.  I fiddled with some setting that made it remove some of the trips accross the object, but am curious if a different slicer would just make trips around the perimeter like I think should be done.
EDIT: Newest version of Cura takes a much better path.  Still interested to know what slicer people are using.  I downloaded PrusaSlicer, but have only tinkered with it a few minutes.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210107/0c75d5a9a531f0ff18224a1d18b3fad0.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: SammyWI on January 07, 2021, 09:25:25 pm
I personally like PrusiaSlicer but I think the the real trick is to pick one and learn to tweak the settings to give you the best prints.  Each slicer has its quirks and will need to be set up a little different. For some reason I never warmed up to Cura though many people love it.  PrusiaSlicer seems to be developing at a good pace but doesn't seem to break my old settings as new versions come out.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: newmanfamilyvlogs on January 08, 2021, 09:45:42 am
Got a second-hand printer, then promptly learned just how hot a car can get during summer..
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on January 08, 2021, 02:07:56 pm
Oh man I think you just learned of pla's low melting temp.  That looks like a first generation printer.... you are probably better off buying an all metal frame anyway. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: newmanfamilyvlogs on January 08, 2021, 02:48:56 pm
It was free. I'll probably source replacement PLA parts, or get the guy who gave it to me to print them up, just to enjoy rebuilding it.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on January 08, 2021, 07:59:15 pm
Oh man I think you just learned of pla's low melting temp.

It doesn't hold up very well in water either.  I made some brackets to hold the lines to my automatic plant waterers to the bottom of the reservoir.  IIRC they lasted a few months submerged.

Bought a roll of ABS when I bought the printer.  Still haven't opened it because I don't want to smell ABS melting.

Got a deal on some PETG, so we'll see how that goes when it gets here.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on January 09, 2021, 02:46:02 am
Slicer of choice?

I've just been using an older version of Cura that came with my printer.  Tried the newest version, but had better results with the old one.

An issue has surfaced that I believe is caused by underextrusion following a long unnecessary travel path taken by Cura.  I fiddled with some setting that made it remove some of the trips accross the object, but am curious if a different slicer would just make trips around the perimeter like I think should be done.
EDIT: Newest version of Cura takes a much better path.  Still interested to know what slicer people are using.  I downloaded PrusaSlicer, but have only tinkered with it a few minutes.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210107/0c75d5a9a531f0ff18224a1d18b3fad0.jpg)
I’ve been using SuperSlicer to good results. The only thing I don’t like is how it does supports. Original Cura seems to do them best.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on January 10, 2021, 10:37:44 pm
I use Prusia slicer on my chiron.
i have it dialed in pretty good.

for my mini delta I use cura because the tree supports are wonderful when it comes to mini's and it took little effort on my part to get nice prints using someone else's profile.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on January 23, 2021, 07:45:50 am
This trick is probably common knowledge, but for anyone who hasn't heard about it....

The McMaster-Carr (https://www.mcmaster.com/plastic-gears/) website has 3D CAD files for most of their hardware including screws, gears, brackets, etc.

Your process will vary depending on software used, but I am still playing in TinkerCAD so here is what works for me:
Download the file from McMaster-Carr in 3-D STEP format.  (A couple others I tried came out like swiss cheese)
Start a new project in FreeCAD and import the STEP file.
Select All and export to STL.
Import to Tinkercad or slicer of your choice.

This morning I'm messing around with plastic reduction gears.
Haven't printed or tried to use any yet.
I've used the process in the past to create screw holes with countersinking.


Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: SammyWI on January 23, 2021, 09:27:41 am
McMaster is a great resource for 3D CAD files.  But be cautious about the gear files they have.  I've looked at several and the modeling of the curved gear tooth is an approximation in the CAD files and is not a true gear tooth form.  This may or may not be an issue depending on what your use is for the parts.

I'm a Mechanical Engineer and I do spur and helical gear design as part of my job.  The approximation that McMaster does is pretty common for 3D modeled gears.  In manufacturing most gears (not 3D printing) the manufacturing process makes the special curve of the gear teeth just by the nature of how the process works.  Hard to explain but it was found many years ago that the complex shape of that curve can be made with relatively easy to make tools and processes.  But making it in 3D modeling software is very difficult. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on January 23, 2021, 02:16:50 pm
I should be getting the parts today to upgrade my Anet A8 frame to aluminum! I’ve spent the past month really getting this machine dialed in, and this was the next natural step. It’s also the final step, as I plan to save up this year to build a Voron by this time next year. I’ve really enjoyed how much I’ve learned about 3D printing these last few month. The trick is to find someone just as enthusiastic who knows more than you and is willing to share knowledge! :)

I’m currently printing the connector parts for the new frame using PETG for the first time.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on January 23, 2021, 02:57:44 pm
I’m currently printing the connector parts for the new frame using PETG for the first time.

Just printed my first PETG parts an hour ago!

The shiny black looks better than the dull grey and blue PLA that I use for everything.
Parts seem soft/rubbery, but they are thin and were still warm when I made the observation.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on January 23, 2021, 03:10:32 pm
Dunno where else to post this.  $9 worth of Semitsu buttons + $6 shipping to have proper color buttons for my $140 cnc machine.  I seem to be drawing out the process of setting up the machine and 3D printing accessories rather than learning how to use it.  I did learn how to set up and calibrate the machine in grbl so that's something.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210123/16e2b964bbd04f081ce07c811c7f9649.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on January 23, 2021, 06:28:30 pm
Dunno where else to post this.  $9 worth of Semitsu buttons + $6 shipping to have proper color buttons for my $140 cnc machine.  I seem to be drawing out the process of setting up the machine and 3D printing accessories rather than learning how to use it.  I did learn how to set up and calibrate the machine in grbl so that's something.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210123/16e2b964bbd04f081ce07c811c7f9649.jpg)
Love it, dude!

Wish I had the space for a CNC. I bought the parts to make one, but ended up with no space. Keep us posted!


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on January 23, 2021, 06:29:30 pm
I’m currently printing the connector parts for the new frame using PETG for the first time.

Just printed my first PETG parts an hour ago!

The shiny black looks better than the dull grey and blue PLA that I use for everything.
Parts seem soft/rubbery, but they are thin and were still warm when I made the observation.
Once mine dried, they were rock solid.

They’re joints for the metal frame, so they’re thick, but they feel more solid than anything I’ve done with PLA.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on January 24, 2021, 09:00:35 am
FYI, if you need just a little filament in various colors for a few small prints, do not be tempted to buy the polaroid pen pla at Joanne fabrics.
I got some polaroid PTEG and it seems great.  The interwebs says that they buy and rebrand from wherever they can get a deal, so the quality is not consistent.

Some colors print fine.  Two of colors I need clogged my nozzle repeatedly and eventually bonded to the PTFE tube inside the heatbreak.
Kept going higher with the temperature hoping to get it to stop clogging.  Maybe I cooked it.
Printer is down until replacement parts come.   :cry:




Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on January 24, 2021, 02:12:50 pm
I should be getting the parts today to upgrade my Anet A8 frame to aluminum! I’ve spent the past month really getting this machine dialed in, and this was the next natural step. It’s also the final step, as I plan to save up this year to build a Voron by this time next year. I’ve really enjoyed how much I’ve learned about 3D printing these last few month. The trick is to find someone just as enthusiastic who knows more than you and is willing to share knowledge! :)

I’m currently printing the connector parts for the new frame using PETG for the first time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


how have I never heard of the VORON?
what's the average cost to build one of these?
i'm talking the parts other than those you 3d print.



Wish I had the space for a CNC. I bought the parts to make one, but ended up with no space. Keep us posted!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

mine is still on the dining room table.
soon to be leaning up against the china cabinet.
It draws a pretty crown though with a marker.

It turns out i need more room than i thought to set it up and be able to actually use it.
so I have more work down in the basement.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on January 24, 2021, 02:29:19 pm
FYI, if you need just a little filament in various colors for a few small prints, do not be tempted to buy the polaroid pen pla at Joanne fabrics.
I got some polaroid PTEG and it seems great.  The interwebs says that they buy and rebrand from wherever they can get a deal, so the quality is not consistent.

Some colors print fine.  Two of colors I need clogged my nozzle repeatedly and eventually bonded to the PTFE tube inside the heatbreak.
Kept going higher with the temperature hoping to get it to stop clogging.  Maybe I cooked it.
Printer is down until replacement parts come.   :cry:

get the Capricorn or Capricorn clone PTFE tube.
it's usually dark blue. get the cutter. it's worth it.
i also use it for small engine gas line (whacker and chainsaws) when replacing carburetors.

I had to replace the white one on my printer after trying to print pet-g.
when i pulled the white ptfe out it was almost black on the end and the hole had narrowed so much filament wouldn't go through it.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on January 24, 2021, 03:22:27 pm



get the Capricorn or Capricorn clone PTFE tube.
it's usually dark blue. get the cutter. it's worth it.
i also use it for small engine gas line (whacker and chainsaws) when replacing carburetors.

I had to replace the white one on my printer after trying to print pet-g.
when i pulled the white ptfe out it was almost black on the end and the hole had narrowed so much filament wouldn't go through it.

I saw bowden tube size, but none as small as what's in my heatbreak (3mmOD,  1.78 or 2mm ID).

Cheap heatbreak replacements with ptfe inserts will be here in a couple days, but after reading up on the subject I decided to order a genuine 3DP V6 all metal hotend.  The old mp mini select probably isn't worth the upgrade, but I felt like it was going to nickle and dime me to that amount of money anyway.  The V6 bracket was the first thing I printed, as is recommended.
 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on January 24, 2021, 06:06:18 pm



get the Capricorn or Capricorn clone PTFE tube.
it's usually dark blue. get the cutter. it's worth it.
i also use it for small engine gas line (whacker and chainsaws) when replacing carburetors.

I had to replace the white one on my printer after trying to print pet-g.
when i pulled the white ptfe out it was almost black on the end and the hole had narrowed so much filament wouldn't go through it.

I saw bowden tube size, but none as small as what's in my heatbreak (3mmOD,  1.78 or 2mm ID).

Cheap heatbreak replacements with ptfe inserts will be here in a couple days, but after reading up on the subject I decided to order a genuine 3DP V6 all metal hotend.  The old mp mini select probably isn't worth the upgrade, but I felt like it was going to nickle and dime me to that amount of money anyway.  The V6 bracket was the first thing I printed, as is recommended.

interesting.
it sounds like your mini and my mini delta use the same hot end.
I had to order the metal heat breaks with PTFE inside also because I tried printing ABS on it and I had the same issue.
those hot ends are mickey mouse.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on January 24, 2021, 06:08:44 pm
I should be getting the parts today to upgrade my Anet A8 frame to aluminum! I’ve spent the past month really getting this machine dialed in, and this was the next natural step. It’s also the final step, as I plan to save up this year to build a Voron by this time next year. I’ve really enjoyed how much I’ve learned about 3D printing these last few month. The trick is to find someone just as enthusiastic who knows more than you and is willing to share knowledge! :)

I’m currently printing the connector parts for the new frame using PETG for the first time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


how have I never heard of the VORON?
what's the average cost to build one of these?
i'm talking the parts other than those you 3d print.



Wish I had the space for a CNC. I bought the parts to make one, but ended up with no space. Keep us posted!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

mine is still on the dining room table.
soon to be leaning up against the china cabinet.
It draws a pretty crown though with a marker.

It turns out i need more room than i thought to set it up and be able to actually use it.
so I have more work down in the basement.
A good, upgraded Voron will run you over $1000, but the quality is impeccable. That’s why I’m playing the long game with that one.

I’ll keep the Anet as a secondary printer, but it’s definitely evolved from the stock version!


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on January 27, 2021, 09:02:41 am
After installing a new heatbreak with fresh ptfe liner, the mini select was back up and running with my usual filament.
Tried to print the polaroid pen filament again and it clogged again.  In the process of clearing that, I assume that I damaged the thermistor wires because the temperature showed maxed out.
Shows maxed out even without the thermistor plugged into the main board.  From what I read online, the main board is now bad.
So I have a $60 hotend on the way for a 5 year old $150 printer with a bad board.  :timebomb:

I could swap in a ramps setup (with learning curve), but at this point I'm sick of working on it and sick of spending money on it.
The hotend I ordered is 12v, so it will only work with certain printers.  The return policy (printedsolid) says they only process returns once a month, so a refund might take that long.
ugh......

I'd get an Ender 3, but they are 24v and the whole wheel/guide setup just doesn't seem like a good system to me.
Settled on an Anycube Mega S.  Not as much support for it, but it's ready to print after attaching a few screws and it's 12v so I can still use the e3d v6.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on January 27, 2021, 05:22:52 pm
After installing a new heatbreak with fresh ptfe liner, the mini select was back up and running with my usual filament.
Tried to print the polaroid pen filament again and it clogged again.  In the process of clearing that, I assume that I damaged the thermistor wires because the temperature showed maxed out.
Shows maxed out even without the thermistor plugged into the main board.  From what I read online, the main board is now bad.
So I have a $60 hotend on the way for a 5 year old $150 printer with a bad board.  :timebomb:

I could swap in a ramps setup (with learning curve), but at this point I'm sick of working on it and sick of spending money on it.
The hotend I ordered is 12v, so it will only work with certain printers.  The return policy (printedsolid) says they only process returns once a month, so a refund might take that long.
ugh......

I'd get an Ender 3, but they are 24v and the whole wheel/guide setup just doesn't seem like a good system to me.
Settled on an Anycube Mega S.  Not as much support for it, but it's ready to print after attaching a few screws and it's 12v so I can still use the e3d v6.
Nice. When I get done with this frame update this weekend, the only original parts will be the stepper
motors and the PCB.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210127/978ac4f1197b30c7e0892c1612a96b8b.jpg)


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on January 27, 2021, 05:26:02 pm
Oh, and let me know how the e3d v6 upgrade goes. I may or may not go that route myself.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on January 27, 2021, 06:02:45 pm
Oh, and let me know how the e3d v6 upgrade goes. I may or may not go that route myself.


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After watching a bunch of videos, I'm digging the new style hot ends like the slice mosquito that aren't a bunch of cylindrical parts screwed together.  They bolt on straight and don't twist, so you don't have to grab the heater block with channel locks when screwing in a different nozzle (and end up shorting out the thermistor circuit in the process).

After getting educated, it seems to all come down to a smooth bore finish and keeping everything north of the heater block cool.  I'm thinking there are other ways to accomplish this that require elbow grease and less money.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on January 27, 2021, 06:06:06 pm
Nice. When I get done with this frame update this weekend, the only original parts will be the stepper
motors and the PCB.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210127/978ac4f1197b30c7e0892c1612a96b8b.jpg)


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If only I had a working 3D printer, I could print parts to build a new 3D printer......

I think I need two.  Wouldn't have to wait for prints to finish before starting the next one either.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on January 28, 2021, 06:58:24 pm
After installing a new heatbreak with fresh ptfe liner, the mini select was back up and running with my usual filament.
Tried to print the polaroid pen filament again and it clogged again.  In the process of clearing that, I assume that I damaged the thermistor wires because the temperature showed maxed out.
Shows maxed out even without the thermistor plugged into the main board.  From what I read online, the main board is now bad.
So I have a $60 hotend on the way for a 5 year old $150 printer with a bad board.  :timebomb:

I could swap in a ramps setup (with learning curve), but at this point I'm sick of working on it and sick of spending money on it.
The hotend I ordered is 12v, so it will only work with certain printers.  The return policy (printedsolid) says they only process returns once a month, so a refund might take that long.
ugh......

I'd get an Ender 3, but they are 24v and the whole wheel/guide setup just doesn't seem like a good system to me.
Settled on an Anycube Mega S.  Not as much support for it, but it's ready to print after attaching a few screws and it's 12v so I can still use the e3d v6.

I have an anycubic printer.
check the fasteners on the parts you didn't assemble.
most of mine needed a few turns.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on January 29, 2021, 02:30:41 pm
Aaaaaaaand I decided to get a 12v e3d v6 as well. Might as well go the distance.

Should be here Saturday!


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on January 29, 2021, 07:03:13 pm
Aaaaaaaand I decided to get a 12v e3d v6 as well. Might as well go the distance.

Should be here Saturday!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I could have sold you mine!  Of course it wouldn't get there as fast.  I think I'm going to try a micro swiss heatbreak in the stock hotend before swapping over to the E3D.

I'm starting to regret ordering directly from Anycubic for the sake of warranty and after sales service.
Haven't received anything since the original order confirmation.  Emailed them today and received no response.  A quick google search reveals that this is pretty much par for the course.
No response or shipping information, then the printer will just show up in 3 or 15 or 30 days.  If I can't get in touch with them about whether it has shipped, I can't imagine the warranty service is worth much.
Should have just ordered from a 3rd party seller on Amazon and had it delivered in 2 days.

I'd never heard of the Voron before you mentioned it.  Whenever I get a cheap printer up and running, I'm going to start planning for a Voron. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on January 29, 2021, 08:07:45 pm
I'd never heard of the Voron before you mentioned it.  Whenever I get a cheap printer up and running, I'm going to start planning for a Voron.
My friend that built it is very thorough in her research and process. When she decided to get into 3D printing, she went straight for a Prusa and learned on that. She used the Voron recently to print a filter for her telescope, and I was blown away by the quality and complexity of the print. There’s no way my Anet could even approach that. I could probably print a nice spacer block to put under each telescope leg to raise it an inch!

I kid, but that what it felt like! I’m definitely going to start planning for my Voron. I want a nice big 330x330 built platform.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on January 31, 2021, 07:34:35 am
Quote
We have uploaded the product you bought,
and we will transport it for you soon, but the tracking number has not yet come out, please wait patiently
....yeah that thing is still sitting in China.  US warehouse ---my bottom---.
They followed up with a "DHL tracking number" that is actually a UPS tracking number, but I'm betting they've only printed the label.
We'll see if it gets scanned into the UPS system on Monday.

I want to get the MP mini select back up at some point, but have decided that I will not spend any money on parts unless they can be re-used on a Voron build.
I watched some videos on installing Marlin on the SKR v1.3 board the Voron uses and the learning curve doesn't seem bad at all.
Between those and details given in a MP Mini Select to Ramps instructables, I'm pretty sure that I can get the SKR board running the Mini without too much hassle.

So I've ordered the SKR v1.3 board, Fysetc display and 2209 drivers spec'd in the Voron 2.4 BOM with the intention of using them with the mini for now.

EDIT: got an email from UPS that the package is scheduled for delivery tomorrow, but the tracking number shows not picked up yet.  Email source seems to be legit.  It would be awesome to get it tomorrow.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on January 31, 2021, 05:29:41 pm
Quote
We have uploaded the product you bought,
and we will transport it for you soon, but the tracking number has not yet come out, please wait patiently
....yeah that thing is still sitting in China.  US warehouse ---my bottom---.
They followed up with a "DHL tracking number" that is actually a UPS tracking number, but I'm betting they've only printed the label.
We'll see if it gets scanned into the UPS system on Monday.

I want to get the MP mini select back up at some point, but have decided that I will not spend any money on parts unless they can be re-used on a Voron build.
I watched some videos on installing Marlin on the SKR v1.3 board the Voron uses and the learning curve doesn't seem bad at all.
Between those and details given in a MP Mini Select to Ramps instructables, I'm pretty sure that I can get the SKR board running the Mini without too much hassle.

So I've ordered the SKR v1.3 board, Fysetc display and 2209 drivers spec'd in the Voron 2.4 BOM with the intention of using them with the mini for now.

EDIT: got an email from UPS that the package is scheduled for delivery tomorrow, but the tracking number shows not picked up yet.  Email source seems to be legit.  It would be awesome to get it tomorrow.
Hah - I started an Amazon with list with Voron parts! I have a $50 gift card I got for Christmas that I think I’m gonna use to buy the six stepper motors.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on February 03, 2021, 10:13:08 pm
Mega S got here tonight, but it's still freezing cold from being in the UPS truck so I'm going to let it acclimate before turning it on.
For all my whining, delivery time was only six days.  (the tracking number showed "on way to UPS" up until yesterday)

I have an anycubic printer.
check the fasteners on the parts you didn't assemble.
most of mine needed a few turns.

You weren't kidding.  Every single one needed at least a half turn.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on February 04, 2021, 01:12:10 pm
Just printing some last minute items, but everything is ready for the transition to the metal frame. I might start as early as today, but really thinking about making it an all-day Saturday project.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on February 04, 2021, 03:07:58 pm
Just printing some last minute items, but everything is ready for the transition to the metal frame. I might start as early as today, but really thinking about making it an all-day Saturday project.

Comparing the metal frame of this Anycubic Mega S to the 20x20mm extrusion frame of my mini CNC, there is no comparison.
Although thick metal, the stamped steel L flexes like crazy compared to the extrusion which has no noticeable flex.
Extrusions all the way. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on February 04, 2021, 03:17:11 pm
Just printing some last minute items, but everything is ready for the transition to the metal frame. I might start as early as today, but really thinking about making it an all-day Saturday project.

Comparing the metal frame of this Anycubic Mega S to the 20x20mm extrusion frame of my mini CNC, there is no comparison.
Although thick metal, the stamped steel L flexes like crazy compared to the extrusion which has no noticeable flex.
Extrusions all the way.
Yeah, I’m excited to get this done. I opted to go a bit longer on the Y Axis, so I ordered some new side extrusions that should be here any minute now. Can’t wait to tear down and start rebuilding!

I think I got my money’s worth out of this spool of PETG.... :)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210204/b4856a734047822eb61a4c644ca5320c.jpg)


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on February 04, 2021, 07:45:47 pm
Yeah, I’m excited to get this done. I opted to go a bit longer on the Y Axis, so I ordered some new side extrusions that should be here any minute now. Can’t wait to tear down and start rebuilding!

I had ordered a small piece of extrusion from Amazon to test a few things out on, but after checking Misumi's prices I cancelled and did a larger order from there.
https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302683830/?curSearch=%7b%22field%22%3a%22%40search%22%2c%22seriesCode%22%3a%22110302683830%22%2c%22innerCode%22%3a%22%22%2c%22sort%22%3a1%2c%22specSortFlag%22%3a0%2c%22allSpecFlag%22%3a0%2c%22page%22%3a1%2c%22pageSize%22%3a%2260%22%2c%22stockItemFlag%22%3a%221%22%2c%22fixedInfo%22%3a%22innerCode%3aMDM00001299029%7c121%22%7d&Tab=wysiwyg_area_0 (https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302683830/?curSearch=%7b%22field%22%3a%22%40search%22%2c%22seriesCode%22%3a%22110302683830%22%2c%22innerCode%22%3a%22%22%2c%22sort%22%3a1%2c%22specSortFlag%22%3a0%2c%22allSpecFlag%22%3a0%2c%22page%22%3a1%2c%22pageSize%22%3a%2260%22%2c%22stockItemFlag%22%3a%221%22%2c%22fixedInfo%22%3a%22innerCode%3aMDM00001299029%7c121%22%7d&Tab=wysiwyg_area_0)

Wasn't going to mention it yet, but I dug out some new old stock NSK linear rails that a friend gave me a few years ago for helping them.
Was saving them for a CNC machine, but decided to see if they would work for a 3D printer.  The rails are huge, 40mm wide and thick.  The blocks only have threads for 3mm screws though, so I'm not sure they are fit for a bigger CNC router.  Surely overkill, but man are they smooth.  Zero play also.  Got two 740mm rails with 2 blocks each, so if I cut them in half (gasp), I'll have four <370mm rails.  They are too heavy to be on any moving parts, but could be used for rails that attach to the frame.  I could use them for the Y and Z on a giant Voron 0 or use them all on the Z axis of a Voron 2.4.
Thinking that a 40mm wide guide could be easily aligned on a 2040 extrusion, I ordered $100 worth of stock to play with from Misumi (three 2040x1000, six 2020x1000).

So I'm headed down the road to committing the Voron sins of using the wrong parts and cutting/drilling/tapping my own extrusion.  I don't think it will be that bad.  I'm tapping holes that are already there.  The holes drilled in the extrusion don't need to be precise. They just need to line up well enough for an allen key to reach the head of the button head bolt on the other side.  As far as getting the cuts straight, I have a table saw sled calibrated this way (still plan to keep track of the factory edges and use them on the most important joints):
https://youtu.be/UbG-n--LFgQ
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on February 04, 2021, 07:49:10 pm
Yeah, I’m excited to get this done. I opted to go a bit longer on the Y Axis, so I ordered some new side extrusions that should be here any minute now. Can’t wait to tear down and start rebuilding!

I had ordered a small piece of extrusion from Amazon to test a few things out on, but after checking Misumi's prices I cancelled and did a larger order from there.
https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302683830/?curSearch=%7b%22field%22%3a%22%40search%22%2c%22seriesCode%22%3a%22110302683830%22%2c%22innerCode%22%3a%22%22%2c%22sort%22%3a1%2c%22specSortFlag%22%3a0%2c%22allSpecFlag%22%3a0%2c%22page%22%3a1%2c%22pageSize%22%3a%2260%22%2c%22stockItemFlag%22%3a%221%22%2c%22fixedInfo%22%3a%22innerCode%3aMDM00001299029%7c121%22%7d&Tab=wysiwyg_area_0 (https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302683830/?curSearch=%7b%22field%22%3a%22%40search%22%2c%22seriesCode%22%3a%22110302683830%22%2c%22innerCode%22%3a%22%22%2c%22sort%22%3a1%2c%22specSortFlag%22%3a0%2c%22allSpecFlag%22%3a0%2c%22page%22%3a1%2c%22pageSize%22%3a%2260%22%2c%22stockItemFlag%22%3a%221%22%2c%22fixedInfo%22%3a%22innerCode%3aMDM00001299029%7c121%22%7d&Tab=wysiwyg_area_0)

Wasn't going to mention it yet, but I dug out some new old stock NSK linear rails that a friend gave me a few years ago for helping them.
Was saving them for a CNC machine, but decided to see if they would work for a 3D printer.  The rails are huge, 40mm wide and thick.  The blocks only have threads for 3mm screws though, so I'm not sure they are fit for a bigger CNC router.  Surely overkill, but man are they smooth.  Zero play also.  Got two 740mm rails with 2 blocks each, so if I cut them in half (gasp), I'll have four <370mm rails.  They are too heavy to be on any moving parts, but could be used for rails that attach to the frame.  I could use them for the Y and Z on a giant Voron 0 or use them all on the Z axis of a Voron 2.4.
Thinking that a 40mm wide guide could be easily aligned on a 2040 extrusion, I ordered $100 worth of stock to play with from Misumi (three 2040x1000, six 2020x1000).

So I'm headed down the road to committing the Voron sins of using the wrong parts and cutting/drilling/tapping my own extrusion.  I don't think it will be that bad.  I'm tapping holes that are already there.  The holes drilled in the extrusion don't need to be precise. They just need to line up well enough for an allen key to reach the head of the button head bolt on the other side.  As far as getting the cuts straight, I have a table saw sled calibrated this way (still plan to keep track of the factory edges and use them on the most important joints):
https://youtu.be/UbG-n--LFgQ
Yeah, Misumi is great. Ordered Monday, I already installed the longer pieces. Time to slowly tear down the acrylic frame.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on February 04, 2021, 08:18:05 pm
Mega S got here tonight, but it's still freezing cold from being in the UPS truck so I'm going to let it acclimate before turning it on.
For all my whining, delivery time was only six days.  (the tracking number showed "on way to UPS" up until yesterday)

I have an anycubic printer.
check the fasteners on the parts you didn't assemble.
most of mine needed a few turns.

You weren't kidding.  Every single one needed at least a half turn.

oh yeah. once i tightened everything up prints were good.
Also, when my chiron showed up the mail lady knocked on the door and asked if i'd pull it off the truck.
hell ya! i ran out in my slippers in the snow to grab that. :)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on February 04, 2021, 08:24:05 pm
so, it turns out with the XYZ 3d printer i was gifted, if you just use cura to connect to it, it ignores the NFC chip in the spool you buy.
also, it's actually a damn good printer.
it's trowing out .10 per level D&D miniature's at acceptable quality (at 30mms) with very little adjustments.
it took a weeks of tweaking on my mini delta to get solid prints.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on February 04, 2021, 09:44:58 pm
so, it turns out with the XYZ 3d printer i was gifted, if you just use cura to connect to it, it ignores the NFC chip in the spool you buy.
:cheers:
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on February 05, 2021, 02:44:52 pm
so, it turns out with the XYZ 3d printer i was gifted, if you just use cura to connect to it, it ignores the NFC chip in the spool you buy.
:cheers:

that last update allowed you to use cura instead of their in house slicer.
they do have an open chip they sell for $60 shipped but i found i don't need it.

I printed up a spool hanger for the outside, drilled a hole in the side and designed a simple guide with no edges for the filament.
then i just manually leveled it.


Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on February 06, 2021, 08:19:57 pm
It's alive!  No idea of it's accurate or can print, but the steppers are all moving in their proper directions.  Pretty sure the numbers I put in Marlin from the mpminiselect wiki are reliable.  Only part I had trouble with was the Fysetc Mini 12864 V1.2 board.  The tutorial I was following used a different LCD and there were some settings under NEOPIXEL_LED that I missed.  The bigger thing was that the connector on the board is upside down from what it needs to be when used with the skr1.3 board!  Finally came accross it on the Fysetc website. 

Tomorrow V6 gets installed and then I'm sure it's lots of tweaking.  Hoping this can be a dedicated ABS printer with which to build parts for a bigger ABS printer.  (It is on a chair because the USB cable that comes with the skr board is like 1ft long) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210207/54c42c7dbe60c694baa3d49e9e3d80b0.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on February 07, 2021, 11:53:11 am
I picked up an MPMD for cheap that someone bricked while trying to update.
so i put the custom firmware on it that is out there in the community that lets you use a 10 amp power supply to heat faster and higher.
took multiple tries to get it to take but it did.
thought i'd have to buy a new mainboard.
didn't have an old SD-card that it would read when booting.
had a micro-SD to SD adaptor cable and a 1gb SD card.
it worked!
ran the calibration program and so far it's printing good now.

Also, found out i'm getting a small bonus from work next week so i'm going to pick up a 2k mono-screen resin printer.
they are ~$200 now because everyone is about 4k.
looking at the voxlab Proxima and a led UV light with a light activated turntable.
just need a homer bucket to line with tin foil for a curing station.

I'm just printing mini's for D&D and skirmish games so i think i'll be good with just a paltry 2 k. :)
Title: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on February 07, 2021, 02:21:29 pm
It's alive!  No idea of it's accurate or can print, but the steppers are all moving in their proper directions.  Pretty sure the numbers I put in Marlin from the mpminiselect wiki are reliable.  Only part I had trouble with was the Fysetc Mini 12864 V1.2 board.  The tutorial I was following used a different LCD and there were some settings under NEOPIXEL_LED that I missed.  The bigger thing was that the connector on the board is upside down from what it needs to be when used with the skr1.3 board!  Finally came accross it on the Fysetc website. 

Tomorrow V6 gets installed and then I'm sure it's lots of tweaking.  Hoping this can be a dedicated ABS printer with which to build parts for a bigger ABS printer.  (It is on a chair because the USB cable that comes with the skr board is like 1ft long) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210207/54c42c7dbe60c694baa3d49e9e3d80b0.jpg)
Let me know how the V6 install goes. I plan to do mine in the next week or so.

Did the frame conversion this weekend - I love it! Everything is nice and sturdy. I also upgraded the LCD - man, so much better than the stock Anet LCD. The dial works so much better than those crappy buttons.

Waiting for a new MOSFET to show up for the heater bed, then I can try a test print.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210207/d380a7cabd165c50ffb13af4b03130ff.jpg)


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on February 07, 2021, 02:22:47 pm
I picked up an MPMD for cheap that someone bricked while trying to update.
so i put the custom firmware on it that is out there in the community that lets you use a 10 amp power supply to heat faster and higher.
took multiple tries to get it to take but it did.
thought i'd have to buy a new mainboard.
didn't have an old SD-card that it would read when booting.
had a micro-SD to SD adaptor cable and a 1gb SD card.
it worked!
ran the calibration program and so far it's printing good now.

Also, found out i'm getting a small bonus from work next week so i'm going to pick up a 2k mono-screen resin printer.
they are ~$200 now because everyone is about 4k.
looking at the voxlab Proxima and a led UV light with a light activated turntable.
just need a homer bucket to line with tin foil for a curing station.

I'm just printing mini's for D&D and skirmish games so i think i'll be good with just a paltry 2 k. :)
Nice - I kind of want to find a bricked printer to take the parts and convert it to a laser engraver.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on February 07, 2021, 06:26:58 pm
Let me know how the V6 install goes. I plan to do mine in the next week or so.

V6 install was gravy.  Started to watch a tutorial on youtube, but my parts were a bit different, so followed the official guide: https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/V6+Assembly/6?lang=en (https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/V6+Assembly/6?lang=en)
The firmware update would have been a sticking point if I had not already been changing and compiling Marlin the day before.  (If I hadn't fried the original monoprice board, it would have been one line of gcode to change the thermistor value).  Everything with the hotend went without a hitch.
The mount I used was literally the first thing I printed when I got the printer years ago because people online recommended doing so in case the hotend when bad.

The mini display continued to throw me for loops. My axis were reversed when I tested them in the menu, so I inverted them in Marlin.  Then homing was reversed.  I try to reverse homing, but it throws errors and can't be compiled.  Then I find out that the encoder wheel on the display can be reversed....and the direction the menu responds when the wheel is spun can be reversed.  Then I get where I think everything is right, I open Pronterface to my first PID tune on the hotend. ...and the axis are reversed there...meaning they were correct to begin with.   :dunno  So I go back and make sure everything is right in pronterface, then change the wheel and menu settings to work with that.

.....and then I struggled for hours (still struggling) to get my limit switches working.  It should be the simplest thing.  It's just a NO microswitch.  Tried everything and it was like they weren't there.  Then discovered that I was supposed to have jumpers on the board.  Then they showed always closed so I inverted them, now they show always open regardless of whether they are pressed or not.  I know I'm a bit in over my head, but setting up friggin' limit switches shouldn't be the difficult part.  :hissy:

I could be printing on it if the limit switches (and homing) would just work properly.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on February 07, 2021, 06:31:43 pm
Cobbled together a lcd case and card holder from thingiverse with a plate in tinkercad.  Board is just on standoffs on the base plate.  Got a 60mm fan wedged in one end and no cover on the other end.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210207/e828bc34dc708302a828a50ec9b14275.jpg)
(not going to run a parts fan, as this will be used for abs.)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on February 07, 2021, 08:02:36 pm
Bah, removed the jumpers and noticed the switches were working, but as NC.  Changed behavior in Marlin and now they are working properly.  I don't know what I just wasted all evening on.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on February 07, 2021, 09:00:55 pm
Bah, removed the jumpers and noticed the switches were working, but as NC.  Changed behavior in Marlin and now they are working properly.  I don't know what I just wasted all evening on.
Heh.

I just got the MOSFET wired in, but I belt getting heater errors. I checked, one of the power cables was unattached at the source. Tied that in. Still nothing. Found that a connector was off by a pin. Fixed that. Finally the heated bed was recognized. Sweet!


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on February 08, 2021, 04:22:14 pm
I picked up an MPMD for cheap that someone bricked while trying to update.
so i put the custom firmware on it that is out there in the community that lets you use a 10 amp power supply to heat faster and higher.
took multiple tries to get it to take but it did.
thought i'd have to buy a new mainboard.
didn't have an old SD-card that it would read when booting.
had a micro-SD to SD adaptor cable and a 1gb SD card.
it worked!
ran the calibration program and so far it's printing good now.

Also, found out i'm getting a small bonus from work next week so i'm going to pick up a 2k mono-screen resin printer.
they are ~$200 now because everyone is about 4k.
looking at the voxlab Proxima and a led UV light with a light activated turntable.
just need a homer bucket to line with tin foil for a curing station.

I'm just printing mini's for D&D and skirmish games so i think i'll be good with just a paltry 2 k. :)
Nice - I kind of want to find a bricked printer to take the parts and convert it to a laser engraver.


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good luck.
people are dreaming these days with what they want for a broken 3d printer.
I got mine on ebay before prices on everything went sideways.
should check craigslist and fb market place.


Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on February 08, 2021, 04:27:05 pm
Bah, removed the jumpers and noticed the switches were working, but as NC.  Changed behavior in Marlin and now they are working properly.  I don't know what I just wasted all evening on.

i know this feel.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on February 08, 2021, 08:41:07 pm
Well, I think the mini select is fully back now.  Laying down some petg as I don't want to open( or smell) the ABS until I'm ready to print parts.  Didn't know what to do with the rubber duck that came with the bigtree board, so I turned it into an extruder topper.

Man, this thing is near silent with the new board.  Only thing making noise is the hotend fan and it isn't much.  Gonna have to hack the obscenely loud anycubic mega s despite the warranty.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210209/f8e00e5f37e334bdcc43f26788370f3e.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210209/8e5e84db01272ec10951309b5a3ae9bf.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on February 08, 2021, 09:00:26 pm
Good to see it running again!

I printed this Voron cube.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210209/ca7e378079446c52d1ef9d761a6f5acf.jpg)


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on February 08, 2021, 09:25:15 pm
Good to see it running again!

I printed this Voron cube.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210209/ca7e378079446c52d1ef9d761a6f5acf.jpg)


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Is there some type of criteria the cube has to meet which means that you are ready to start printing voron parts?
If not, is there some other test to make sure the parts I'm printing would be up to standard?
Title: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on February 08, 2021, 09:29:27 pm
Actually, I started using a new Slicer that I love. It’s called SuperSlicer, and it’s a fork from the Prusa Slicer development. It has built-in calibration tools, and one of the options let’s you print a Voron cube.

I like it so much better than Cura. You can really get in there and control almost every aspect of your print, filament, and Gcode settings. Check it out.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on February 09, 2021, 03:07:16 pm
Wanted to share this with you guys, my friend sent this to me this morning. She’s printing a pinball topper on her Voron while printing replacement parts to go to a full metal frame for the Prusa. I think this gives you a good idea as to the scale you can achieve on the Voron.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210209/9cda445ad3f14fb9d544182d2e1aa873.jpg)


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on February 09, 2021, 10:00:18 pm
Nice.  I want one.  Gonna try to print some Voron pulley system parts on the mini this weekend.  Hopefully they turn out useable.

Been a bit disappointed with the Mega S.  I've gotten by with it, but couldn't seem to get any aspect dialed in.  Couldn't even get the bed level without the back corner knob loosened so much it would fall off. 

Turned out the Y axis plate was bent in multiple ways.  Was afraid I wouldn't be able to straighten it, but it turned out to be some weird super soft metal that bends easy.  Got a decent first layer now, but still have a long ways to go.  While IMO the design of this printer is superior to the Ender3, I can't say I recommend it.  Too many quality control issues and it makes a high pitch whine that won't allow me to get a good night's sleep with it running.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210210/534db03762ae8f807663b76e720c59ea.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on February 09, 2021, 11:16:07 pm
Nice.  I want one.  Gonna try to print some Voron pulley system parts on the mini this weekend.  Hopefully they turn out useable.

Been a bit disappointed with the Mega S.  I've gotten by with it, but couldn't seem to get any aspect dialed in.  Couldn't even get the bed level without the back corner knob loosened so much it would fall off. 

Turned out the Y axis plate was bent in multiple ways.  Was afraid I wouldn't be able to straighten it, but it turned out to be some weird super soft metal that bends easy.  Got a decent first layer now, but still have a long ways to go.  While IMO the design of this printer is superior to the Ender3, I can't say I recommend it.  Too many quality control issues and it makes a high pitch whine that won't allow me to get a good night's sleep with it running.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210210/534db03762ae8f807663b76e720c59ea.jpg)

my Chiron has the same thing with the Y stepper or bed motor.
I've already replaced it and it seems like the the mount is bent so i straightened it and it seems to work better.
but it squeaks.
not that much.
i'm in the next room watching TV and i have to look to see if it's still printing.
but it's next to my Work From home setup and i notice the squeak some times.

my MPMD's squeal so i can hear them in bed upstairs.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on February 12, 2021, 05:54:29 pm
Printed a Voron cube in ABS last night to see if the mini was up to the task.  Turned out great except for the bridge on the inside.  Thought I was ready to start printing parts.  Bracket looked good when I left it.  Came back to a lifted and warped corner.  Thought I could get away printing on a 75 degree bed since it was sticking.  Guess not.  Despite being warped it is crazy strong.  Gonna crank up the heat and build a foam wall.  Extending the bed is coming back to bite me in the ass when it comes to building an enclosure.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210212/5bd10e71f6350151b37097874136826c.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210212/d7328824d17652b08922081aede6d8dd.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on February 13, 2021, 02:58:37 pm
Printed a Voron cube in ABS last night to see if the mini was up to the task.  Turned out great except for the bridge on the inside.  Thought I was ready to start printing parts.  Bracket looked good when I left it.  Came back to a lifted and warped corner.  Thought I could get away printing on a 75 degree bed since it was sticking.  Guess not.  Despite being warped it is crazy strong.  Gonna crank up the heat and build a foam wall.  Extending the bed is coming back to bite me in the ass when it comes to building an enclosure.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210212/5bd10e71f6350151b37097874136826c)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210212/d7328824d17652b08922081aede6d8dd.)

I have a heat lamp clamped to my Chiron and that usually lets me print smaller ABS parts just fine.


Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on February 13, 2021, 03:03:30 pm
Printed a Voron cube in ABS last night to see if the mini was up to the task.  Turned out great except for the bridge on the inside.  Thought I was ready to start printing parts.  Bracket looked good when I left it.  Came back to a lifted and warped corner.  Thought I could get away printing on a 75 degree bed since it was sticking.  Guess not.  Despite being warped it is crazy strong.  Gonna crank up the heat and build a foam wall.  Extending the bed is coming back to bite me in the ass when it comes to building an enclosure.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210212/5bd10e71f6350151b37097874136826c)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210212/d7328824d17652b08922081aede6d8dd.)

I have a heat lamp clamped to my Chiron and that usually lets me print smaller ABS parts just fine.
That sounds like a good trick!

I think I’ve got stuff dialed in. Current state of the printer:

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210213/8928c3aa5c5da423247ae61202ceefb4.jpg)


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on February 13, 2021, 07:06:17 pm
Printed a Voron cube in ABS last night to see if the mini was up to the task.  Turned out great except for the bridge on the inside.  Thought I was ready to start printing parts.  Bracket looked good when I left it.  Came back to a lifted and warped corner.  Thought I could get away printing on a 75 degree bed since it was sticking.  Guess not.  Despite being warped it is crazy strong.  Gonna crank up the heat and build a foam wall.  Extending the bed is coming back to bite me in the ass when it comes to building an enclosure.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210212/5bd10e71f6350151b37097874136826c)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210212/d7328824d17652b08922081aede6d8dd.)

I have a heat lamp clamped to my Chiron and that usually lets me print smaller ABS parts just fine.
That sounds like a good trick!

I think I’ve got stuff dialed in. Current state of the printer:

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210213/8928c3aa5c5da423247ae61202ceefb4.jpg)


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looks like a totally different printer.
I assume it prints a little better?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on February 13, 2021, 07:07:42 pm
Printed a Voron cube in ABS last night to see if the mini was up to the task.  Turned out great except for the bridge on the inside.  Thought I was ready to start printing parts.  Bracket looked good when I left it.  Came back to a lifted and warped corner.  Thought I could get away printing on a 75 degree bed since it was sticking.  Guess not.  Despite being warped it is crazy strong.  Gonna crank up the heat and build a foam wall.  Extending the bed is coming back to bite me in the ass when it comes to building an enclosure.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210212/5bd10e71f6350151b37097874136826c)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210212/d7328824d17652b08922081aede6d8dd.)

I have a heat lamp clamped to my Chiron and that usually lets me print smaller ABS parts just fine.
That sounds like a good trick!

I think I’ve got stuff dialed in. Current state of the printer:

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210213/8928c3aa5c5da423247ae61202ceefb4.jpg)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

looks like a totally different printer.
I assume it prints a little better?
It prints a LOT better. A lot faster too, since this sturdy frame isn’t subject to the same wobble and sway of the acrylic frame.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on February 15, 2021, 07:25:22 am
I like the heavenly glow.  I can't wait to have something dialed in again.
Despite raising the maximum bed temp in the firmware, the bed of the mini topped out around 77 degrees.  It would go higher but not stay there.
A layer of rockwool (safe n sound) under it made a huge difference.  It made and maintained 80 no problem, then 85, then 90.  Then I started to worry that it was only designed for 80, so I didn't go any higher.
(the bed is actually a PCB with a thin aluminum sheet on one side).
Shortened the bed extension back to original size & bought some foil coated fiberboard insulation to build an enclosure.
Haven't attempted ABS again yet, except for running test prints for Marlin settings.

Bought a spring steel sheet with magnetic base for the Mega S.  What I didn't think about until after it was done is that it is only going to be as flat as the plate it is attached to.
So it isn't as flat as the original glass "ultrabase", which I had problems removing large flat prints from.  It's not horrible, a slight hump in the middle where the first layer goes on too thin.
Not sure if I'm keeping it or not, but the smart thing to do would have been to mount the magnetic sheet to a piece of tempered glass instead of the printer bed.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on February 15, 2021, 12:00:36 pm
My resin printer showed up late saturday after being on an amazon truck all day in 15 deg weather.
I left it sit out on the table all night to let it acclimate.
opened up the bottle of water soluble resin i bought with it and hollee heck it smells.
kids were complaining.
so i'm waiting until they go to their mom's tonight to play with it.
I've read the regular stuff smells even worse.
good thing i worked on my basement this weekend.

i have a long bench down there i can almost get to. :)
i have some insulation board and steel 2x4's I plan to use to build one giant enclosure for all my printers and use heat lamps to warm it.
looks like I need to add an exhaust fan to it now.

only cost to me is the plexi for the front and maybe a new surface for the bench if I can't sand it smooth and paint it.
I haven't seen the top in 5 yrs so no idea what it looks like. LOL!
And it looks like I can sheets of 24"x48" lexan for 32$ at lowes.
it's .08" thick but i really just want to keep air movement and temp changes from happening while being able to see what is going on with the printer vs really insulating it so it should be fine.
Title: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on February 15, 2021, 12:28:33 pm
I like the heavenly glow.  I can't wait to have something dialed in again.
Despite raising the maximum bed temp in the firmware, the bed of the mini topped out around 77 degrees.  It would go higher but not stay there.
A layer of rockwool (safe n sound) under it made a huge difference.  It made and maintained 80 no problem, then 85, then 90.  Then I started to worry that it was only designed for 80, so I didn't go any higher.
(the bed is actually a PCB with a thin aluminum sheet on one side).
Shortened the bed extension back to original size & bought some foil coated fiberboard insulation to build an enclosure.
Haven't attempted ABS again yet, except for running test prints for Marlin settings.

Bought a spring steel sheet with magnetic base for the Mega S.  What I didn't think about until after it was done is that it is only going to be as flat as the plate it is attached to.
So it isn't as flat as the original glass "ultrabase", which I had problems removing large flat prints from.  It's not horrible, a slight hump in the middle where the first layer goes on too thin.
Not sure if I'm keeping it or not, but the smart thing to do would have been to mount the magnetic sheet to a piece of tempered glass instead of the printer bed.
Yeah, I’ve been looking at steel spring surfaces as well. I’ll probably do the mount it to glass thing.

Back in December I invested in this, and it’s been great. It’s seems pricy until you realize what you get. How many sheets you get, and how much a much smaller roll of blue painters tape costs. Once I get close to running out of the stuff, I’ll look at getting a steel spring sheet.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210215/90f562c1e45ba5a0d3efd05e1704e27f.jpg)

The price is actually gone up three bucks since I ordered.

Here’s an example of what it looks like in use. I love it because I don’t have to worry about any unsightly seams from tape or anything like that. I just lay down the sheet, and everything proceeds nicely.


Here’s an example of the PCB cage I’m printing right now, you can see how everything lays down nicely on the single sheet.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210215/3dcdbe5e3757addc62dfb897df901fdc.jpg)


Here is the machine in the current state, with the lighting upgrades I made this weekend.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210215/b30b2d5076b3571edf174358361fea20.jpg)


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on February 15, 2021, 12:29:57 pm
My resin printer showed up late saturday after being on an amazon truck all day in 15 deg weather.
I left it sit out on the table all night to let it acclimate.
opened up the bottle of water soluble resin i bought with it and hollee heck it smells.
kids were complaining.
so i'm waiting until they go to their mom's tonight to play with it.
I've read the regular stuff smells even worse.
good thing i worked on my basement this weekend.

i have a long bench down there i can almost get to. :)
i have some insulation board and steel 2x4's I plan to use to build one giant enclosure for all my printers and use heat lamps to warm it.
looks like I need to add an exhaust fan to it now.

only cost to me is the plexi for the front and maybe a new surface for the bench if I can't sand it smooth and paint it.
I haven't seen the top in 5 yrs so no idea what it looks like. LOL!
And it looks like I can sheets of 24"x48" lexan for 32$ at lowes.
it's .08" thick but i really just want to keep air movement and temp changes from happening while being able to see what is going on with the printer vs really insulating it so it should be fine.
Yeah, and closures of the best. Once I get everything all buttoned up, I’ll post a picture of the new machine inside the enclosure I made.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on February 16, 2021, 05:31:48 am
That is a sweet looking pcb cage.

Removed the magnetic sheet from the Mega S.  The adhesive was a huge PITA to remove. Reinstalled the stock glass ultrabase.  Clipped the PEI/spring steel sheet on top of that using binder clips.  Had to cut out around the clips that hold the ultrabase on, but now I have a removable flexible base that is flat.
So FYI, you can get away with just clipping a spring steel sheet on without using (or buying) the magnetic base.  The one I got was flat enough anyway.

While I'm not a fan of binder clips, I'm much happier with this setup.  It is much flatter that using the magnetic sticker on the bare slightly domed buildplate.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on February 16, 2021, 09:59:41 am
That is a sweet looking pcb cage.

Removed the magnetic sheet from the Mega S.  The adhesive was a huge PITA to remove. Reinstalled the stock glass ultrabase.  Clipped the PEI/spring steel sheet on top of that using binder clips.  Had to cut out around the clips that hold the ultrabase on, but now I have a removable flexible base that is flat.
So FYI, you can get away with just clipping a spring steel sheet on without using (or buying) the magnetic base.  The one I got was flat enough anyway.

While I'm not a fan of binder clips, I'm much happier with this setup.  It is much flatter that using the magnetic sticker on the bare slightly domed buildplate.
Nice - yeah, that glass i bought was a nice upgrade. I also picked up a new bed to replace the stock Anet one.

Here’s the cage installed:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210216/81bd0602b3ec41167eb7f4fc2a2c7427.jpg)

I love how much cleaner it makes things already.

I have two more major upgrades planned for this. The first is a swap out the power supply, which Ialready have and just need to do. The second is to install the V6 hotend, and what I’m gonna do is actually build the Voron Afterburner extruder, and then mount it to this 3D printer. That’s a big, radical departure, and I’m excited to do that one. I’m going to print the parts in PETG, so we’ll see how it goes!


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on February 16, 2021, 10:48:00 am
I usually read this thread but don't participate.  One of the best things I did 5 years ago was bought my son a cheap 3D printer for Christmas.  Within a week he wanted a nicer one asking for an Ultimaker 2.  Another forum I was on had a similar thread and someone had posted build plans and a parts list for a UM2 clone.  So I told him I would buy the parts if he built it because I thought it would be a good learning experience.  He had to use the cheap printer to print a lot of the parts.  He made me buy him Simplify3D and he now runs it using a Raspberry Pi server I believe running OctoPrint.  So now whenever I need a part I design it and email him the file.  I never really learned how to use it myself and its been nice not needing to.  It doesn't have a bed leveler and I've watched him when the print starts he eyes it real close and reaches under making a couple fine tunings to the screws.  Not sure why but he seems to do this at the start of every print.  I attached a pic of what he built when he was 16.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on February 16, 2021, 11:23:56 am
That’s cool, brother. I’ve really enjoyed tinkering in upgrading the cheap printer I bought. There is some satisfaction in making something better.

I used to do the manual thing before every print too, then once I added the aftermarket auto bed leveler, it’s been send print and forget - it’s been the best!


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on February 16, 2021, 11:53:18 am
I was interested in the Voran printer you guys were talking about.  I checked out the website and downloaded the BOM for the Voron 2.  Its was a LONG listing and somewhat intimidating....lol.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on February 16, 2021, 11:57:18 am
That's a VERY clean print up there Yots.
my last rpizero print had a few strings in between the vents.


resin printer is up and running.
but man the Ball Joint leveling system the voxelabs proxima uses....i cannot recommend just for that.
took me 2 hrs to get it level.
it uses a set screw on the front and side along with a screw on the back which just keeps the ball from falling out and shifting when you crank down on the other set screws.
took a bit to get the back screw to the point where it kept the ball from shifting but not pushing it forward and keeping the build plate from popping up on a corner when you tightened the screw.

the other resin printers with the 4 screws seem like it would be a lot easier.

anyway I printed the test file NP.
printed a really tiny zombie an inch tall (i forgot to scale the model) now i'm printing something bigger to see how that goes.
smell actually is not as bad as I expected, can only really smell the resin when right next to it or i take the top off.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on February 16, 2021, 01:05:37 pm
Here’s the cage installed:

Clip yo zip-ties!

I attached a pic of what he built when he was 16.

Looks like a dream build for most people.  :cheers:

I was interested in the Voran printer you guys were talking about.  I checked out the website and downloaded the BOM for the Voron 2.  Its was a LONG listing and somewhat intimidating....lol.

I'm about $750 into it with probably another $300 to go.  Credit card company started stopping the charges about 5 orders in on AliExpress.  The Misumi site allowed me to order the black anodized extrusions, but they won't ship until May.  So I am expecting to have everything here and build in May.  I bought an SKR 1.3 to get the Mini back up and running with the intention of using it on the Voron later, but now the BOM specifies a 1.4 (sourcing guide still links to the 1.3).  I will buy the electronics last in case something changes.

I originally wanted to cut my own extrusion and use linear rails which I already had, but customizing Marlin for my Monoprice Mini Select made me realize that I would not enjoy setting up the software side of a custom build.  With the Voron, everything is already worked out (hopefully) and I just need to follow instructions (hopefully). 

This is very much against my BYO nature, but I am sticking to the plan down to the colors.
Title: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on February 16, 2021, 01:31:35 pm
Here’s the cage installed:

Clip yo zip-ties!

I attached a pic of what he built when he was 16.

Looks like a dream build for most people.  :cheers:

I was interested in the Voran printer you guys were talking about.  I checked out the website and downloaded the BOM for the Voron 2.  Its was a LONG listing and somewhat intimidating....lol.

I'm about $750 into it with probably another $300 to go.  Credit card company started stopping the charges about 5 orders in on AliExpress.  The Misumi site allowed me to order the black anodized extrusions, but they won't ship until May.  So I am expecting to have everything here and build in May.  I bought an SKR 1.3 to get the Mini back up and running with the intention of using it on the Voron later, but now the BOM specifies a 1.4 (sourcing guide still links to the 1.3).  I will buy the electronics last in case something changes.

I originally wanted to cut my own extrusion and use linear rails which I already had, but customizing Marlin for my Monoprice Mini Select made me realize that I would not enjoy setting up the software side of a custom build.  With the Voron, everything is already worked out (hopefully) and I just need to follow instructions (hopefully). 

This is very much against my BYO nature, but I am sticking to the plan down to the colors.
Cool, glad to see you’re all in on the Voron. I plan to be there by the end of the year. Building the AM8 has been a good exercise for me. Plus, I’ll be able to print better quality parts for the Voron. Hell. I might even reprint some of the parts for the AM8!

And I’ll clip the zip ties once everything is wrapped up! :-)

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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on February 16, 2021, 01:34:02 pm
That's a VERY clean print up there Yots.
my last rpizero print had a few strings in between the vents.


resin printer is up and running.
but man the Ball Joint leveling system the voxelabs proxima uses....i cannot recommend just for that.
took me 2 hrs to get it level.
it uses a set screw on the front and side along with a screw on the back which just keeps the ball from falling out and shifting when you crank down on the other set screws.
took a bit to get the back screw to the point where it kept the ball from shifting but not pushing it forward and keeping the build plate from popping up on a corner when you tightened the screw.

the other resin printers with the 4 screws seem like it would be a lot easier.

anyway I printed the test file NP.
printed a really tiny zombie an inch tall (i forgot to scale the model) now i'm printing something bigger to see how that goes.
smell actually is not as bad as I expected, can only really smell the resin when right next to it or i take the top off.
I need to research resin printers. I really don’t know anything about them. In a nutshell, how are they different from FDM 3D printers?


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on February 16, 2021, 03:54:01 pm
scratch that, i shoveled snow outside for 45 mins, came in and i could smell the resin.

Well you know how fdm works.

I actually had a very high level understanding of how they worked but after seeing mine work here is the rundown.

resin printers have the build plate upside down.
that dips into a vat of resin with a clear sheet (fep) on the bottom.
under the vat is an LCD with a strong UV light as it's back light.

when you start a print the plate dips into the resin, pushes up against the clear FEP, the LCD turns on? off? the pixels that compose the first layer go clear (allowing the UV light to show through) and the resin cures.
build plate lifts and lowers for the next layer...rinse repeat.
Original models used a color LCD.
the latest is a monchrome LCd which allows for faster printing.
but i wouldn't know how it compares to a color.
Also, you can load the build plate up on these because half the build plate vs a full build plate = same amount of time to print because it does whole layers at once.

If you are level and everything sticks (supports are more important it seems so use a lot, they just pull off) you scrape the model off into your big Tupperware of water or rubbing alcohol depending on the type of resin and use it to wash all the excess resin off though people use Mr. Clean which is so much cheaper and easier to find.
sometimes you have to use an old soft toothbrush for bigger models.

pick off your supports then cure with a UV light.
I bought a UV spotlight and a light powered spinny platform together for this purpose.
Stuck them in a homer bucket lined with tinfoil taped in place with foil tape and hung the light from the lid with zip ties.
I literally just built it in 15 mins for my big print going now.

also, always wear gloves where resin is being touched (except when you touch your printers plastic lid) you use clean hands for that or it's etched forever.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on February 17, 2021, 08:24:44 am
Ok I've decide to build a Voron 300mm.  I asked my son if he wanted to build another printer and he said "do we really need another printer we don't use this one very much".  I said no I "want" another printer.  Then later I said well you might move out soon and want to take this printer with you so I'd like to have one here I can use.  The instructions have a few options to sort out.  It says we should print the parts in ABS and we've never used that material.  Not sure if I'd need to enclose the sides of the current printer.  My other idea was print it with PLA like he normally does and then once built reprint everything with ABS.  They also recommend using direct drive and he has a Bowden drive installed on the current one so not sure why they have that recommendation.  Seems like they encourage you to buy the chain instead of printing one.  I also see a hundred mods users have uploaded and wondered if I should just switch to any of those right of out the gate.  So many decisions.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on February 17, 2021, 09:26:21 am
So I placed an order with Bolt Depot for everything listed from there in the sourcing guide.  Then I went to mark what I had bought in the BOM spreadsheet and noticed the quantities did not match for 6 items.  I ordered some spares of everything but not enough to cover the differences on 3 of those.  <bangs head on desk>  Now I don't know what to trust in these listed quantities.

Update:  Found another post online with the same comment so apparently only use the BOM spreadsheet for accurate quantities.  Let my mistake help you...lol.  I called and fixed my order.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on February 17, 2021, 10:12:48 am
Ok I've decide to build a Voron 300mm.  I asked my son if he wanted to build another printer and he said "do we really need another printer we don't use this one very much".  I said no I "want" another printer.  Then later I said well you might move out soon and want to take this printer with you so I'd like to have one here I can use.  The instructions have a few options to sort out.  It says we should print the parts in ABS and we've never used that material.  Not sure if I'd need to enclose the sides of the current printer.  My other idea was print it with PLA like he normally does and then once built reprint everything with ABS.  They also recommend using direct drive and he has a Bowden drive installed on the current one so not sure why they have that recommendation.  Seems like they encourage you to buy the chain instead of printing one.  I also see a hundred mods users have uploaded and wondered if I should just switch to any of those right of out the gate.  So many decisions.
Hey Gil - good questions!

My friend, who is an expert with these things, has told me she thinks it’s OK to build it out of PETG. PETG is a good middle ground between PLA and ABS. I used it for my AM8 upgrade and so far so good.

I’m going direct drive with mine. Her recommendation was to do so because there are less jams with a direct drive head as opposed to the Bowden set up. She knows what she’s talking about, so I trust her.

It’s awesome man. This Voron is definitely for you, not the kid. :-)


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on February 17, 2021, 10:39:54 am
Cool thanks for the tips.  Yeah I like to be more involved in building this one.  I'm sure my son will get interested though when I start.  He was a kid when he built that last one but he's 21 now and graduating from UofA with a Computer Science degree next year.  When I said hey checkout this video he was like "oh its a CoreXY..." like he already knew more than I do...lol.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on February 17, 2021, 10:58:42 am
So I placed an order with Bolt Depot for everything listed from there in the sourcing guide.  Then I went to mark what I had bought in the BOM spreadsheet and noticed the quantities did not match for 6 items.  I ordered some spares of everything but not enough to cover the differences on 3 of those.  <bangs head on desk>  Now I don't know what to trust in these listed quantities.

Update:  Found another post online with the same comment so apparently only use the BOM spreadsheet for accurate quantities.  Let my mistake help you...lol.  I called and fixed my order.

I've never heard of bolt depot.
when i was building my printed CNC i ordered the hardware from the guy who created it because it was cheaper and supported his project but mostly because it was cheaper. :).
I had to deal with 2 different places and their shipping along with home depot and their prices.

i'll check this place out for my next build.


Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on February 17, 2021, 11:12:08 am
I've never heard of bolt depot.
when i was building my printed CNC i ordered the hardware from the guy who created it because it was cheaper and supported his project but mostly because it was cheaper. :).
I had to deal with 2 different places and their shipping along with home depot and their prices.

i'll check this place out for my next build.

Yeah I was just following their "Sourcing Guide" that you can pop up after running the Configurator.  I didn't see any info about buying from the creator.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on February 17, 2021, 01:05:07 pm
I think I spent too much and ordered from too many different places by following the sourcing guide. https://vorondesign.com/sourcing_guide?model=V2.4 (https://vorondesign.com/sourcing_guide?model=V2.4)
The shipping charges from ordering 1 thing each from 8 different places probably made up for any money saved.

Got my bolt depot order yesterday.  All bags labeled with description and quantity sticker on the front.  (might have even had a drawing, I can't remember)
I noticed differences between the BOM and sourcing guide, but only caught half as many as you.

I wasn't finding a good source for the build plate and the local machine shops I've tried in the past haven't been cool to work with, so I ended up ordering the kit from digmach (along with the DIN rails for mounting the electronics).  Probably paid a premium, but I'm tiring of placing orders for one single item.


In non Voron news, I printed an ABS fan bracket for the Mega on the mini and noticed that the end that curled up faced the tower.
The hotend fan was blowing air through the hotend toward the tower with nowhere for it to go.  The part that curled up off the bed was getting hit by the airflow redirected by the tower.
I moved the fan to the least worst angle and the part printed fine.  Still not attempting any more Voron parts until I have an enclosure built.

The bed of the Mega can get much hotter which has me wondering if I'm using the wrong printer for ABS.  I'm still struggling to get the print quality dialed in on it though.


Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on February 17, 2021, 01:47:49 pm
Yeah well luckily 3 of the 6 items were wrong in the other direction so I already had enough on order.  I'd love to buy more items from less sources I've just been having trouble.  Even with just the fastener items it was looking like 4 to 5 orders.  I saw kits for some items like the extrusions but the number/length of the items didn't match the BOM so I avoided it.  Heck I'd probably give someone an extra 2 to 3 hundred just to order an all-in-one kit that was accurate.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on February 17, 2021, 03:06:36 pm
I think I spent too much and ordered from too many different places by following the sourcing guide. https://vorondesign.com/sourcing_guide?model=V2.4 (https://vorondesign.com/sourcing_guide?model=V2.4)
The shipping charges from ordering 1 thing each from 8 different places probably made up for any money saved.

Got my bolt depot order yesterday.  All bags labeled with description and quantity sticker on the front.  (might have even had a drawing, I can't remember)
I noticed differences between the BOM and sourcing guide, but only caught half as many as you.

I wasn't finding a good source for the build plate and the local machine shops I've tried in the past haven't been cool to work with, so I ended up ordering the kit from digmach (along with the DIN rails for mounting the electronics).  Probably paid a premium, but I'm tiring of placing orders for one single item.


In non Voron news, I printed an ABS fan bracket for the Mega on the mini and noticed that the end that curled up faced the tower.
The hotend fan was blowing air through the hotend toward the tower with nowhere for it to go.  The part that curled up off the bed was getting hit by the airflow redirected by the tower.
I moved the fan to the least worst angle and the part printed fine.  Still not attempting any more Voron parts until I have an enclosure built.

The bed of the Mega can get much hotter which has me wondering if I'm using the wrong printer for ABS.  I'm still struggling to get the print quality dialed in on it though.
Have you looked at enclosures? I did the IKEA Lack table hack but gave it my own flair. Most versions do all the sides in plexi but I wanted something a bit more industrial-looking:

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210217/11f0384509048d86da48e9163c1fba27.jpg)


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on February 17, 2021, 04:31:40 pm
Have you looked at enclosures? I did the IKEA Lack table hack but gave it my own flair. Most versions do all the sides in plexi but I wanted something a bit more industrial-looking:

I looked at some on sites where I was buying parts, but just chuckled at the big price tags.  I had not seen the Ikea table hack.  It looks good.
The mini setup will be temporary though. Bought a $14 sheet of 1/2" foil backed foamboard and a roll of aluminum tape.  I have piles of scrap optix left over from making cabs.
I want to maintain airflow through the bottom of the mini where the SKR board, Y and Z motors are.  It's gonna be ugly, but do the job.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on February 17, 2021, 04:37:46 pm
Have you looked at enclosures? I did the IKEA Lack table hack but gave it my own flair. Most versions do all the sides in plexi but I wanted something a bit more industrial-looking:

I looked at some on sites where I was buying parts, but just chuckled at the big price tags.  I had not seen the Ikea table hack.  It looks good.
The mini setup will be temporary though. Bought a $14 sheet of 1/2" foil backed foamboard and a roll of aluminum tape.  I have piles of scrap optix left over from making cabs.
I want to maintain airflow through the bottom of the mini where the SKR board, Y and Z motors are.  It's gonna be ugly, but do the job.
Cool. I think I paid $12 each for three IKEA Lack tables, and I bought one 24 x 48 sheet of plexi. The 1/2 MDF I had on hand, as well as the black and white paint. I printed clips for the windows as well.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on February 17, 2021, 05:55:52 pm
For the Voron they are showing two different types of T-nuts.  Hammer head and another style with a spring loaded ball bearing.  Wondering why I need both types.  I was about to order from Aliexpress but it was kinda expensive for just that part of the order.  Was considering the option of making the printed T-nut on Thingiverse where you just insert a nut.  Any thoughts?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on February 17, 2021, 06:32:13 pm
wood filament.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on February 17, 2021, 08:28:15 pm
For the Voron they are showing two different types of T-nuts.  Hammer head and another style with a spring loaded ball bearing.  Wondering why I need both types.  I was about to order from Aliexpress but it was kinda expensive for just that part of the order.  Was considering the option of making the printed T-nut on Thingiverse where you just insert a nut.  Any thoughts?
I asked my friend that question for you Gil. This is what she said:

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210218/5ea7c51171d1451c4e26803ee2de4969.jpg)


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on February 17, 2021, 09:44:35 pm
Thanks....I already ordered the metal ones.  It wasn't as bad once I got home and took and took another look.  When I clicked on the Amazon links it was coming to like $96 for just T-nuts.  So like someone else said on my 4th transaction on Aliexpress it didn't seem like it was going through.  So call the fraud dept and wait 15 minutes to get a person then he says he doesn't see any issue on their end.  I try again and then it works.  He says you won't have any problems using that card now.  Very next transaction boom...fraud alert email comes...lol.  I gotta take a break and continue ordering another day.  This is nerve-wracking trying to sort out.

One question I do have is do you guys like 1.75mm or 3mm.  I placed an order for some nice red colored tubing for 1.75mm.  Then as soon as I hit the order button I notice another line item on the BOM that says I need to order PTFE tube with 3mm inner diameter.  Then I'm getting mad thinking I just ordered the wrong thing.  I keep getting tripped up trying to line up the sourcing guide with the BOM.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on February 17, 2021, 11:07:09 pm
Not sure about the bowden tube.  A quick search when I was shopping led me to believe that the larger diameter was because it is direct drive and the tube is just to guide the filament, not control it like when being pushed from behind.  I haven't ordered it yet, so would be interested to know.  IIRC, that was the order that wouldn't go through after the charge was rejected a couple times.

Stayed up until my bedtime making an enclosure for the mini.  It may or may not work, but it sure is shiny!  Optix window is double pane...'cause I got lots of optix scraps.  The sides of the base of the printer are removed and a fan is pushing outside air through it.

Against my better judgement I decided to start a print before bed.....and the skr board is dead.  LCD light comes on, but there is nothing on the screen and it isn't recognized over USB anymore.  Tried to reload the firmware via sd card and I don't think anything happend.  Apparently this is not uncommon with the bigtreetech boards.  There may be a chance to resurrect it over serial, but since it has only been used a week I am returning it to Amazon as defective.  They are shipping the replacement immediately and I have 30 days to return the old one or get charged for the replacement.  So...that might be a reason to order the boards through Amazon despite them costing a bit more there.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210218/36eb148d0ad9d7d05a61495bdd523d71.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210218/71c66029cf679afa0e930bf7137f9035.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on February 18, 2021, 06:05:59 am
I fiddled with the skr board some more this morning.  The firmware.bin file on the sd card was disappearing, so the firmware was updating.  There was hope!
Finally came across a post with something other than flashing the bootloader over serial pins (which is over my head, but I can follow instructions). 
All I had to do was comment out #define SERIAL_PORT -1 and uncomment #define SERIAL_PORT_2 -1
Sucks that I had already disconnected everything and removed the board, but it's good that it is working again.  Guess I'll have the two boards needed for the Voron build now.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on February 18, 2021, 10:46:27 am
Wow this Voron build is adding up pretty fast.  I'm at $882 and I've only ordered the Fasteners, Motion, frame extrusions, motors, and hotend.  Hope there aren't too many more big ticket items.  I know the build plate will be one.  I found a build plate kit but of course it was only available in the two sizes I'm not building and sold out for mine.  I did find a kit for the belts and pulley stuff then I go to finish out the one last line item in that section, the rails, and find out they will be $139 ($112 + shipping).
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on February 18, 2021, 11:53:41 am
Wow this Voron build is adding up pretty fast.  I'm at $882 and I've only ordered the Fasteners, Motion, frame extrusions, motors, and hotend.  Hope there aren't too many more big ticket items.  I know the build plate will be one.  I found a build plate kit but of course it was only available in the two sizes I'm not building and sold out for mine.  I did find a kit for the belts and pulley stuff then I go to finish out the one last line item in that section, the rails, and find out they will be $139 ($112 + shipping).

Yeah, when I said I was at $750 with $300 left to go .......I was mistaken.
Spent another $250 on the build plate/heater/pei/din rail kit and still haven't bought much from the electronics section.
It has to come to an end eventually.  :scared

I am working 20 hours/week overtime to bankroll this, but it still hurts. 
Need to sit down and add everything up and see exactly what has been spent and how much more it will cost.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on February 18, 2021, 12:06:37 pm
Yeah what drive me crazy is almost every link for AliExpress goes to a different store.  I was trying to search for everything in a section to see if multiple items can be gotten from one place but I just lose track of all the tabs I have open and have to just start buying one by one and get $7 to $12 dollar'ed to death.  I was looking at the digimach electronics kit and almost was going to buy it but matching it up with the BOM a few things didn't match and they listed the SKR 1.3 vs 1.4.  Also every item becomes a research project.  I click on a link for what I expect to be a simple fan and get 20 options on the page and the sourcing guide doesn't say anything about which one to pick.  They might have different fan speeds, connectors, bearings, etc.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on February 18, 2021, 02:50:34 pm
Made a spreadsheet of money spent so far..... $910.  So at least I haven't spent more than I thought.
Haven't calculated the cost of what remains to purchase, but there is a ways to go.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on February 18, 2021, 03:59:37 pm
I think mine will be at least $1,500.  I'm at $1,335 and still need build plate, DIN rails, and side plastic items.  I've placed about 25 different orders.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on February 18, 2021, 07:01:27 pm
Heh, now you know why I said wanted to build one you this time next year. Slowly collecting the parts! ;)


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on February 18, 2021, 07:27:36 pm
My comedy of errors continues....
Got the min back together and in the enclosure.  Even just the LEDs are enough to get it above room temperature.
Felt good enough about it to go straight to printing Voron parts.
The print starts and the nozzle is against the bed, so I relevel.
Then the print starts and the nozzle is against the bed.
And I realize that the V6 mount that I printed out of PLA is now floppy.  :lol

So now it's back out of the enclosure for the purpose of printing an ABS bracket which will hopefully hold up in the heat.
Good thing I have a couple months to get this all worked out.

EDIT: So the hotend fan isn't kicking on after getting the board working again.....
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on February 19, 2021, 08:04:59 am
Yeah I joined the Voron Discord server and was reading and searching last night.  I searched for the term PETG and after reading all the comments I'm convinced I need to try to use ABS parts for the Voron.  There was confession from one guy who was always advocating PETG was fine and eventually he ended up with some of the parts warping.  I got myself in the queue for the Print It Forward program where you can pay existing users to print the ABS parts but its about a 2 month wait in the queue.  I'm sure some of the parts I've ordered will take that long anyways but I hate waiting.  In the meantime I'm gonna talk with my son to see if we can print ABS on his.  Not sure if that means I'd need to install side panels to enclose it.  I'd like to get them printed myself because then it feels more DIY and if we do get it done I can cancel my spot in the queue.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on February 19, 2021, 05:15:23 pm
Sounds like a good plan, Gil.

Almost done with the upgrades. My black PETG came in, time to start printing the Voron Afterburner parts! Since I’m still going to be using this hot end for another month or so, while I wait for parts to come in, there were a few original parts I needed to print to either upgrade, reinforce, or replace because they were cracking. So now my stock hot end has accent color parts!

Current status:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210219/56b80eddc1308f66e2e9925adf9bd144.jpg)


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on February 23, 2021, 12:42:49 pm
Bunch of my parts are arriving.  My Misumi black aluminum extrusions are already in.  I have an E3D and a Dragon hot end because I ordered one and then read about the other.  I have 2 different build plate kits on order.  They guys at DigMach took several days to reply and I had already ordered one from China.  But I kinda liked the looks of the DigMach set and it was higher wattage so I'll probably have an extra set if any AZ folks need one.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on February 23, 2021, 01:58:53 pm
I’ve been building the Voron Afterburner hot end gantry. It’s cool to see it come together.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210223/cdeabbd48ccc3cbab18ddb5a1fded99f.jpg)

Here’s the extruder. I’m just waiting for the heat inserts to come in so I can finalize the assembly.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on February 23, 2021, 03:32:51 pm
I’ve been building the Voron Afterburner hot end gantry. It’s cool to see it come together.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210223/cdeabbd48ccc3cbab18ddb5a1fded99f.jpg)

Here’s the extruder. I’m just waiting for the heat inserts to come in so I can finalize the assembly.


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those are some round circles.
very nice.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on February 23, 2021, 05:30:47 pm
I’ve been building the Voron Afterburner hot end gantry. It’s cool to see it come together.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210223/cdeabbd48ccc3cbab18ddb5a1fded99f.jpg)

Here’s the extruder. I’m just waiting for the heat inserts to come in so I can finalize the assembly.


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those are some round circles.
very nice.
Yep - couldn’t have done that without the aluminum frame!


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on February 23, 2021, 09:53:02 pm
I’ve been building the Voron Afterburner hot end gantry. It’s cool to see it come together.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210223/cdeabbd48ccc3cbab18ddb5a1fded99f.jpg)

Here’s the extruder. I’m just waiting for the heat inserts to come in so I can finalize the assembly.


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those are some round circles.
very nice.
Yep - couldn’t have done that without the aluminum frame!


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I noticed my circles were off a tad on my chiron.
which means i need to check the belts, bearings and for loose screws then recalibrate e-steps as last resort.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on February 25, 2021, 01:31:04 am
I still need two more parts before I can install the actual hot end, but this has been fun to print and assemble!

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210225/6baa0a2ef56f98d7f583db855089f147.jpg)

Heat inserts are awesome to work with!!


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on February 25, 2021, 10:32:53 am
Cool yots...not sure when I'll get to assemble mine.  The fans from Digikey had a 4 month backorder.  So many parts arriving and I'll be held up from simple fans.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on February 25, 2021, 10:51:57 am
Yeah, one of them things I’m waiting for is a blower motor. It’s been stuck in Oklahoma for a week now, so I just ordered one right now from Amazon, it’ll be here tomorrow.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on February 25, 2021, 11:28:24 am
Well they told me the fans were back ordered until 6/20 but I double-checked status and now they've shipped them already.  Gotta watch some of these websites.  I thought I was paying about $168 but they shipped in 3 different deliveries and now my total they charged me is $209.  McMaster Carr does the same thing.  They shipped my entire order except for these tiny 1mm washers.  Those got shipped from somewhere else so an extra $9 shipping.  It was such a small envelope my wife said they ripped you off on shipping...lol.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on February 25, 2021, 11:43:00 am
Have you guys used heat inserts yet? They’ve awesome!

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210225/3e7c631ebabdfecef069c45964ec9dfb.jpg)

So much nicer than just screwing directing into the plastic. You use a heated soldering iron to heat the insert, and then push it into the hole. They go in firmly and are snug.

Word of advice. Make sure you ordered the M3x4mmLx5mmOD ones. If you ordered the M3x5mmLx4mmOD ones, they aren’t going to work. I speak from experience.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on February 25, 2021, 11:55:59 am
Well you had me thinking I ordered the wrong ones because I knew mine were 3x5x4 but the ones on AliExpress have the diameter as the middle number so I think I'm ok.
Product properties: M3 X D5.0 X L4.0
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on February 25, 2021, 01:33:36 pm
Well you had me thinking I ordered the wrong ones because I knew mine were 3x5x4 but the ones on AliExpress have the diameter as the middle number so I think I'm ok.
Product properties: M3 X D5.0 X L4.0
Yeah, Ali and Amazon both list them differently. So if you bought them from Ali, you’re Golden.

They’re fun to use. I picked up a special soldering tip to insert them, but you can use a regular clean soldering tip.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on February 27, 2021, 07:22:06 pm
Ok, I spent the afternoon replacing the white X carriage parts on my machine. Since the new frame is so dialed in, I felt comfortable printing these high precision parts in PETG.

So now all the parts on the printer match the color theme. Waiting on some wiring to come in so I can install the Voron Afterburner extruder. Good times!

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210228/f2b784d6dd8dc0afe1f852eab5b71b64.jpg)


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on February 28, 2021, 02:36:02 am
Looking good.
Notice any less ghosting n stuff with the improved frame?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on March 01, 2021, 01:27:16 pm
Looking good.
Notice any less ghosting n stuff with the improved frame?
Oh yeah - I can print at higher speeds, with much greater accuracy. My circles are perfectly round as well


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on March 04, 2021, 08:44:16 am
I'm attempting to build one of those Lack table enclosures for my son's printer so he could print ABS for the Voron.  He printed all the parts for it but the table is not tall enough so I've got to figure out how to modify the design.  I had already ordered the plastic before I figured that out so I've got to modify in a way to hopefully still use those pieces.  Thinking it should be a making a wooden square piece to raise the top up more.  His printer uses a bowden drive so it has a stiff wooden tube that loops up over the top along with a wire bundle which makes you need at least 6 more inches above the printer.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on March 04, 2021, 09:21:21 am
Maybe you could scale up the topper for the V0 or do something similar.
(flip table upside down)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on March 04, 2021, 09:23:51 am
Hey Gilrock, what was the determination on the size of the bowden tube required for the Voron 2.4?
I saw the sourcing guide was updated to say that the size depending on your setup, but am still unclear if that means filament size or bowden vs direct drive.
What ID did you end up ordering?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on March 04, 2021, 09:26:30 am
Are you guys going Bowden or Direct Drive on your Voron? My friend suggested Direct, as does everything else I’ve seen.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on March 04, 2021, 09:28:49 am
I'm attempting to build one of those Lack table enclosures for my son's printer so he could print ABS for the Voron.  He printed all the parts for it but the table is not tall enough so I've got to figure out how to modify the design.  I had already ordered the plastic before I figured that out so I've got to modify in a way to hopefully still use those pieces.  Thinking it should be a making a wooden square piece to raise the top up more.  His printer uses a bowden drive so it has a stiff wooden tube that loops up over the top along with a wire bundle which makes you need at least 6 more inches above the printer.
I built a Lack enclosure that’s designed a bit taller:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2751130


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on March 04, 2021, 09:30:29 am
I found the sourcing guide has several mismatches with the BOM spreadsheet you get from the configurator so I've been using the BOM as the master.  It said "PTFE Tube (4mm OD 3mm ID) - 1m" so that's what I ordered and will see how it works out.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on March 04, 2021, 09:33:07 am
I'm attempting to build one of those Lack table enclosures for my son's printer so he could print ABS for the Voron.  He printed all the parts for it but the table is not tall enough so I've got to figure out how to modify the design.  I had already ordered the plastic before I figured that out so I've got to modify in a way to hopefully still use those pieces.  Thinking it should be a making a wooden square piece to raise the top up more.  His printer uses a bowden drive so it has a stiff wooden tube that loops up over the top along with a wire bundle which makes you need at least 6 more inches above the printer.
I built a Lack enclosure that’s designed a bit taller:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2751130


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Thanks for the link...  Yes I also saw a couple other designs after I had already ordered the plastic sides so now I'm trying to decide a way to not throw those pieces out. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on March 04, 2021, 09:35:42 am
I kinda like BadMouths idea of something similar to the V0 enclosure but my son's feed tube and wires currently loop up over the top back rail of the frame.  The Bowden drive is attached exterior to the frame cube so its not inside that cube space for an easy way to contain it.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on March 04, 2021, 09:37:38 am
I looked back at the photo I posted and that was when he first built it and the tubing is not even installed in that photo.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on March 04, 2021, 10:28:44 am
Are you guys going Bowden or Direct Drive on your Voron? My friend suggested Direct, as does everything else I’ve seen.

Direct drive.  The stepper motor was out of stock in the US, so I ended up ordering it from China (from stepperonline).  Only shipping option it gave was DHL.  $20 shipping on an $8 motor.  :cry:
Not even trying to have a budget at this point.  Mostly what's left to order at this point is the hotend and boards.  A long interview with the guy from E3D popped up in my youtube feed and I listened to it while getting ready for work this morning.  Sounds like they are coming out with a new hotend, possibly with copper heatsinks, possibly a replacement for the V6.  I will wait, as my black extrusion won't be here until May and will very likely be the last thing to arrive.

Been dealing with personal stuff and long work hours, but I hope to have Voron parts coming off the mp mini select by this weekend.  I just try to accomplish one thing a day with the one free hour I have.
The Marlin firmware build I had been using became corrupted somehow, so I started over with Visual Studio as Atom is no longer recommended.
As of this morning, the mp mini had the new board installed with a fresh Marlin build and seemed to be working fine.
This evening I will finish my leveling process of printing .3mm tall squares in each corner and measuring them with calipers, then print a new hotend mount out of ABS so it won't sag.
The enclosure gets to and holds at 90 degrees Fahrenheit fairly quickly with only the bed heating it.  Not sure how much higher it will go when left alone for hours.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on March 04, 2021, 10:57:37 am
I got my stepperonline pancake motor from eBay for 10 bucks I think.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on March 04, 2021, 12:50:46 pm
BadMouth where did you order those extrusions from?  I ordered from Misumi and they got here fairly quick.  They are black anodized.

I ordered the Voron stepper motor kit with all 7 motors from StepperOnline and it was $14.81 shipping.  They got here fairly fast.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Mike A on March 04, 2021, 01:01:18 pm
I don't know anything about 3D printers.

Isn't there a model out there that does what you guys want without spending a bunch of time, money, and frustration trying to modify a cheap one?

I am not trying to be critical. I am just curious.
Title: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on March 04, 2021, 01:15:10 pm
I don't know anything about 3D printers.

Isn't there a model out there that does what you guys want without spending a bunch of time, money, and frustration trying to modify a cheap one?

I am not trying to be critical. I am just curious.
Sure, but they’ll cost you a lot. The fun is in the tinkering, for me. Can’t wait to build my Voron.

Let’s put it this way - what’s more fun, buying a $100 Pac-Man and restoring it, or dropping $3000 on Barcade Trent’s restored one? One will save you time, but cost a lot more. The other is cheaper, and you’ll learn a lot from the process. It depends on what you’re looking for.

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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Mike A on March 04, 2021, 01:35:16 pm
I understand what you are saying. I guess I consider it a tool. And I don't like tinkering with my tools. I just want them to do their job.

I have my answer now. Carry on.

I like reading these posts because I don't have a 3D printer.
Title: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on March 04, 2021, 01:44:41 pm
I understand what you are saying. I guess I consider it a tool. And I don't like tinkering with my tools. I just want them to do their job.

I have my answer now. Carry on.

I like reading these posts because I don't have a 3D printer.
I was the SAME EXACT WAY..... until I bought one.

I find the tinkering enjoyable.

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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on March 04, 2021, 01:51:28 pm
I looked into a Makerbot, but they have become expensive.  I also felt like it might lock me into their software and filament.

Closest thing to what we are building would be Daedalus. https://www.projectr3d.com/shop/p/daedalus (https://www.projectr3d.com/shop/p/daedalus)
I didn't find out about them until after ordering most of the Voron parts.
Probably couldn't bring myself to spend that much anyway.

I am surprised that I laid out the money for Voron parts, but felt like a cheaper prebuilt printer would nickel and dime me on upgrades then fail to perform anyway.
I am not real comfortable with what I've spent, but hopefully the end result will be worth it.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on March 04, 2021, 01:54:59 pm
I looked into a Makerbot, but they have become expensive.  I also felt like it might lock me into their software and filament.

Closest thing to what we are building would be Daedalus. https://www.projectr3d.com/shop/p/daedalus (https://www.projectr3d.com/shop/p/daedalus)
I didn't find out about them until after ordering most of the Voron parts.
Probably couldn't bring myself to spend that much anyway.

I am surprised that I laid out the money for Voron parts, but felt like a cheaper prebuilt printer would nickel and dime me on upgrades then fail to perform anyway.
I am not real comfortable with what I've spent, but hopefully the end result will be worth it.
I hear you. I think you’ll be happy with the Voron. Having a friend who can vouch for it goes a long way for me. I’ve seen the quality firsthand.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on March 04, 2021, 01:58:24 pm
I understand what you are saying. I guess I consider it a tool. And I don't like tinkering with my tools. I just want them to do their job.

I have my answer now. Carry on.

I like reading these posts because I don't have a 3D printer.
I was the SAME EXACT WAY..... until I bought one.

I find the tinkering enjoyable.

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I still kinda laugh about the fact that most people use them to print figurines.  It reminded me of the King of The Hill episode where Peggy was obsessed with miniatures.  Upon review, it was Hank's mother who was obsessed with miniatures which isn't as funny for some reason.  (sorry Nitrogen_Widget)

I vowed to only print useful stuff, but since getting one I have also started tinkering with cheap 1/16th scale WPL RC trucks.
I couldn't resist the urge to print 1/16th scale coolers/chainsaws, and other accessories for them.  It's easy to scale an STL to whatever size you want.

I have become what I previously ridiculed.  :lol


Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on March 04, 2021, 02:13:52 pm
I'm itching to print this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zc7SxqoKL98 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zc7SxqoKL98)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on March 04, 2021, 02:51:03 pm
I understand what you are saying. I guess I consider it a tool. And I don't like tinkering with my tools. I just want them to do their job.

I have my answer now. Carry on.

I like reading these posts because I don't have a 3D printer.
I was the SAME EXACT WAY..... until I bought one.

I find the tinkering enjoyable.

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I still kinda laugh about the fact that most people use them to print figurines.  It reminded me of the King of The Hill episode where Peggy was obsessed with miniatures.  Upon review, it was Hank's mother who was obsessed with miniatures which isn't as funny for some reason.  (sorry Nitrogen_Widget)

I vowed to only print useful stuff, but since getting one I have also started tinkering with cheap 1/16th scale WPL RC trucks.
I couldn't resist the urge to print 1/16th scale coolers/chainsaws, and other accessories for them.  It's easy to scale an STL to whatever size you want.

I have become what I previously ridiculed.  :lol
I have printed a million of these. Just printed this last night. If you’re a BYOACer who went to ZapCon, you probably have one.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210304/2d79bb9bfbd972bbef7fbc939ffd28c7.jpg)

I bet you 90% of what I printed have been upgrades to this machine. :-)


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on March 04, 2021, 02:51:44 pm
I'm itching to print this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zc7SxqoKL98 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zc7SxqoKL98)
That’s bad ass


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on March 04, 2021, 02:58:59 pm
Yeah the guy uploaded all his STL files but there is nothing showing which piece goes where or how many of each piece you need.  People asked for instructions and he said he had uploaded all the instructions and somehow the site he used to upload deleted his entire description so he said just forget it.  Now its been a couple years and he seemed to have disappeared.  But its one of those things where you probably have nowhere to store it.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on March 06, 2021, 10:33:41 pm
I am amazed at how little airflow it takes to warp ABS (at least 5yo ABS of unknown quality).  My heatsink fan was loose and wasn't staying put, but whatever direction it was facing was the place where the ABS warped.  It was pulling air from that direction, but was also throwing a little air to the side of the blades.  I flipped the direction to pull air from the heatsink and couldn't feel any air to the sides, but the part still warped.  Installed the elbow pictured and the warping problem has miraculously stopped.  At least the current part has passed the point where it previously failed.  The highest temp that I can maintain on the bed is 89 and the edges aren't as hot.  That is holding me back from doing full plates of parts.

With the mini back up and running, I decided to try and improve the Mega.  Nearly every print off of it has been disappointing despite spending hours testing and adjusting slicer setting.  It was like it randomly underextruded and overextruded. This evening I installed a V6 heatsink and heatbreak on the spare stock hotend and nozzle.  The difference was immediately noticeable.  The filament flowed smoothly and the first print looked worlds better.  Unfortunately although the mega hotend looks like a V6, the real deal is a half inch shorter so the parts cooler is below the nozzle.  Bought this thing so I'd have a printer to use while messing with other printers.  Now it is also a project.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210307/bddc8875c1511dbdd4d2c99b3babfc96.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on March 08, 2021, 07:50:18 pm
Getting consistent full plates of ABS parts off the mini now.  The last (I hope) piece of the puzzle was giving the pei sheet a quick wipe of acetone between prints.

Ordered wires for the Voron today and strayed from the BOM a bit.  It calls for 220ft of 24awg silicone wire and the sourcing guide links to a pack of 5 <20ft spools in assorted colors.  Running all those separate strands for the steppers bugs me.  Both because of spaghetti and the rainbow visible through the drag chain.  The four steppers on the z-axis are stationary and the wire they come with is plenty long enough.  I opted for a 50ft roll of 4 conductor black silicone wire instead.  The conductor on one edge is marked and that's all you really need for a stepper motor. Ordered one pack of the stuff in the sourcing guide for limit switches and such.

The BOM only calls for 10ft of the 20awg wire.  I'm assuming it's mostly for power distribution, so ordered a roll of black and red 2 conductor instead of the assortment.  If any of this was the wrong move, I can get wire quickly from Amazon.

Not sure what I'm doing for the drag chain yet.  The cheap stuff I've used on other projects doesn't lay flat.


Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on March 08, 2021, 08:31:32 pm
So have you tried vapor smoothing yet?    I'm only really interested in working with abs if I can get some smoothing action working in a reliable way.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on March 08, 2021, 09:38:26 pm
So have you tried vapor smoothing yet?    I'm only really interested in working with abs if I can get some smoothing action working in a reliable way.
I have not.  Despite buying this roll of ABS with the printer long ago, this is the first time I've worked with it.  Haven't printed anything but Voron parts and a fan bracket for the Mega.  With this size print bed, I probably won't be printing anything but Voron parts for a few weeks, lol.

I think I have it dialed in except for the bridging.  Bridging is horrendous, but I'd have to learn something other than Cura to speed up or turn on a cooling fan only during bridges.  Could be that I'm only printing at 30mm/sec, but parts are printing while I sleep so might as well use the full 6-8 hours instead of 4.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on March 08, 2021, 10:48:16 pm
Try SuperSlicer. I’ve moved over to it and love it.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on March 09, 2021, 06:22:37 am
Try SuperSlicer. I’ve moved over to it and love it.

I need to.  Googled it before, but that's as far as I got.

Still getting some warping on long parts.  The the mating surfaces print face up and those come out level, so the parts are still usable.
I was hoping not to resort to "ABS juice" or hairspray, but might have to. 
Big parts either warp a little where I can get a putty knife under the edge and remove them easily or don't warp and are next to impossible to remove without damage.
Gonna print everything, then reprint the imperfect ones if time and ABS permit.
Some of the skirting on the 350x350 Voron is too big to print on the mini anyway, so going to wait until the Voron is functional and use it to do those large pieces.

I will probably give ABS a try on the Mega this weekend since an all metal hotend has been installed.  The print bed is larger and gets a lot hotter.
The print quality isn't as dialed in and I really don't want to mess with building an enclosure for it though.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on March 09, 2021, 10:48:38 am
So have you tried vapor smoothing yet?    I'm only really interested in working with abs if I can get some smoothing action working in a reliable way.

Yes.
This was a rush smooth job with no primer for one of my tap handles after I decided to bring hard cider to a party last yr.
just red filament.
Had to blob paint onto it because it wasn't adhering well to the smoothed ABS so that's why it isn't pretty, but I think it worked out.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on March 09, 2021, 12:31:52 pm
That looks cool!

I’m pretty happy with where my printer is now. The axes are all dialed in, I’ve got the z offset set just right. It’s pretty much set and forget when it comes to prints now.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on March 09, 2021, 08:49:20 pm
While the mini is printing black parts, I thought I'd try the red ABS on the Mega.
Don't have any full parts to show for it yet, but this Hatchbox ABS wants a much lower temperature than expected.
Started at 235 and had to step all the way down to 220 before the surface finish on each layer looked correct.
If other colors are the same, an all-metal hotend is not required for this brand.

I question whether it is really ABS, but the test parts I let print halfway seem tough....maybe a bit too flexible for ABS, but tough.
It still warps like ABS.  Gonna buy some hairspray tomorrow.  :afro:


Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on March 09, 2021, 08:50:49 pm
It’s pretty much set and forget when it comes to prints now.

That's a dream of mine.   The mini was set and forget until I moved onto things other than PLA.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on March 09, 2021, 09:26:10 pm
The extruder on my MPMD broke. :'(
so I ordered an all metal one.


got out the other MPMD and a pi zero for octoprint.
the one with the marlin upgrade.
it's printing something out in ABS since I have tpu printed sides to enclose it and 10 amp PSU.
However it's stuttering a little.
noticed baud is 115k instead 256k like my other one.
so i have to look at why i can't connect at the higher speed.


Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Malenko on March 11, 2021, 03:15:03 pm
I have printed a million of these. Just printed this last night. If you’re a BYOACer who went to ZapCon, you probably have one.

a lifetime on this site and my legacy is drawing a dickbutt on your zapcon poster :(
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on March 11, 2021, 03:34:20 pm
I have printed a million of these. Just printed this last night. If you’re a BYOACer who went to ZapCon, you probably have one.

a lifetime on this site and my legacy is drawing a dickbutt on your zapcon poster :(
It’s kinda your ZapCon thing...


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on March 11, 2021, 06:45:47 pm
I got the enclosure built for my sons printer.  Just need to get it inside there now.  I extended the top to accomodate the feed tubing and wiring.  The top also has a hinge in back so it can be lifted for top access.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on March 11, 2021, 07:11:56 pm
Nice job bro!


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on March 12, 2021, 10:09:58 am
banner week here:
MPMD extruder broke - have the new one now. need to install and re-calibrate e-steps.
put a hole in my FEP sheet on my resin printer (didn't notice a bit of cured resin in the vat) - new sheets on order.
my da vinci jr's extruder gears sound like a jabba walker in heat...think it just needs oiling.

but my other MPMD with the upgraded power supply is turning out decent pet-g prints with minimal stringing and my Chiron is still working.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on March 12, 2021, 12:07:08 pm
banner week here:
MPMD extruder broke - have the new one now. need to install and re-calibrate e-steps.
put a hole in my FEP sheet on my resin printer (didn't notice a bit of cured resin in the vat) - new sheets on order.
my da vinci jr's extruder gears sound like a jabba walker in heat...think it just needs oiling.

but my other MPMD with the upgraded power supply is turning out decent pet-g prints with minimal stringing and my Chiron is still working.

Sometimes I think this is a lousy hobby.  :cheers:

My current problem is that the Mega prints ABS well......except for one layer about a half a centimeter off the bed.   :hissy:
Same layer every time, every part, even with a full plate of parts. Was convinced it was an extrusion problem.
Rebuilt the extruder, relocated the spool, cleaned the leadscrews, loosened and realigned both the leadscrews and guides.
The last thing I can think of is that there is some weird airflow thing happening with the stock hotend fan box (which is 1/2" lower after installing a V6).
This morning I printed a new fan shroud to pull air through and away.  Fingers crossed that it works this evening.

Large Voron parts are warping on the mini, so I may have to break down and try abs juice or print them on the Mega if the bad layer problem can be fixed.

(I've since gone brimless, as breaking off the brims leaves an unsightly white line on the edge.  Sanding doesn't take it off.  Chamfering with an xacto knife leaves a nice edge, but is tedious.)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210312/8fdcc1f57cba3a8222107a6b401733df.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on March 12, 2021, 12:52:59 pm
If its always the same spot vertically I would suspect something in the drive train/gearing/belts that does the vertical lifting.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on March 12, 2021, 01:09:24 pm
If its always the same spot vertically I would suspect something in the drive train/gearing/belts that does the vertical lifting.
Yeah, but I can't find anything on the leadscrews that would cause it.  When I watch it happen, it looks like an extrusion issue, but when I feel the filament feeding in, it never slips and the rate doesn't change.  All of a sudden there are strings that seem too high to stick, which lead me to the longshot that maybe the ABS is shrinking downward because of the air from the fanbox.  Maybe that's the level at which the heat from the bed no longer overcomes it.  Longshot I know, but I've tested everything else I could think of.  Experimented with speeds, temperatures(both slight improvement), wall thickness, infill %.

EDIT: It could still be something mechanical, so please share any ideas.  I just visually inspected the leadscrews.  Did not see any wobble or debris.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on March 12, 2021, 03:42:36 pm
Just had the thought that I could raise the bed through the adjuster springs and see if the defect stays at the same level on the part or moves down.  If it moves down, that would point to a problem in the z axis hardware.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on March 12, 2021, 07:42:58 pm
banner week here:
MPMD extruder broke - have the new one now. need to install and re-calibrate e-steps.
put a hole in my FEP sheet on my resin printer (didn't notice a bit of cured resin in the vat) - new sheets on order.
my da vinci jr's extruder gears sound like a jabba walker in heat...think it just needs oiling.

but my other MPMD with the upgraded power supply is turning out decent pet-g prints with minimal stringing and my Chiron is still working.

Sometimes I think this is a lousy hobby.  :cheers:

My current problem is that the Mega prints ABS well......except for one layer about a half a centimeter off the bed.   :hissy:
Same layer every time, every part, even with a full plate of parts. Was convinced it was an extrusion problem.
Rebuilt the extruder, relocated the spool, cleaned the leadscrews, loosened and realigned both the leadscrews and guides.
The last thing I can think of is that there is some weird airflow thing happening with the stock hotend fan box (which is 1/2" lower after installing a V6).
This morning I printed a new fan shroud to pull air through and away.  Fingers crossed that it works this evening.

Large Voron parts are warping on the mini, so I may have to break down and try abs juice or print them on the Mega if the bad layer problem can be fixed.

(I've since gone brimless, as breaking off the brims leaves an unsightly white line on the edge.  Sanding doesn't take it off.  Chamfering with an xacto knife leaves a nice edge, but is tedious.)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210312/8fdcc1f57cba3a8222107a6b401733df.jpg)

That's weird how it does it in the same spot.
Are you printing from octoprint or sdcard? if Sdcard try a different card.
Try a different slicer or a different version of the slicer.
Is your Fan turning on at that layer by chance?
I can't think of anything else other than your z screw is tweaked at that height.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on March 12, 2021, 08:34:26 pm
That's weird how it does it in the same spot.
Are you printing from octoprint or sdcard? if Sdcard try a different card.
Try a different slicer or a different version of the slicer.
Is your Fan turning on at that layer by chance?
I can't think of anything else other than your z screw is tweaked at that height.

The new fan setup seems to have done the trick although I violated the main rule of testing; I changed two variables.
The other thing I did was remove the spring steel PEI sheet.  It was held on with binder clips, not magnets.
It could have been warping, but I don't think the problem layer would have been even across a whole plate of parts if that were the case.
30% into the Voron blower cover and all seems well.  Using hairspray on the Ultrabase.  Hoping it's not that hard to remove when finished.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210313/ce4262c0f9ad55772f39c9909e020d9f.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on March 13, 2021, 10:43:58 am
That's weird how it does it in the same spot.
Are you printing from octoprint or sdcard? if Sdcard try a different card.
Try a different slicer or a different version of the slicer.
Is your Fan turning on at that layer by chance?
I can't think of anything else other than your z screw is tweaked at that height.

The new fan setup seems to have done the trick although I violated the main rule of testing; I changed two variables.
The other thing I did was remove the spring steel PEI sheet.  It was held on with binder clips, not magnets.
It could have been warping, but I don't think the problem layer would have been even across a whole plate of parts if that were the case.
30% into the Voron blower cover and all seems well.  Using hairspray on the Ultrabase.  Hoping it's not that hard to remove when finished.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210313/ce4262c0f9ad55772f39c9909e020d9f.jpg)


Probably the reason my mini can't do ABS. The only fan is heat sink and part cooling. Kill fan and you get heat creep.
Keep fan and and warps.
But since PET-G loves cooling like PLA it works great.

 Metal scraper on a corner, be gentle it will pop up. Some people tear chunks out of their ultrbase  and I just don't know how.
They really have to  be  brutal to do that .
I have the ultra base and even with purple glue stick and still comes off.
Sometimes not easy but you just have to be patient and slowly work it from the corners.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on March 13, 2021, 05:15:46 pm
Left it until morning.  Not sure if it was because the ultrabase was cooled, but it felt like it was barely attached when I pulled it off.
First layer wouldn't stick to the ultrabase by itself.  The Aquanet extra super hold made a big difference.

The mini is now printing everything squished shorter than it should be.  So I'm printing some large parts on the Mega with the old mystery ABS that I was using on the mini.
It smells much more like the real thing than the Hatchbox stuff (cough, cough).  20% in and it looks great so far.  I'm actually impressed with the Mega now.  Using brims on these large parts because I've already wasted enough plastic trying to print them on the mini select.

Hey Yotz, what was the deal with your Z axis and how was it resolved?
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210313/16fce512d3323a24ad00dc5ec7038ae5.jpg)
Title: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on March 13, 2021, 08:25:19 pm
Doing this upgrade was fun and definitely a learning experience.

The main culprit was the replacement auto bed leveling sensor. The model I got was sensitive to fluctuations in temperature. I did some research and found a better model, swapped it out, then after I took care of that, I had to do some more dialing in and printed some new bed spacers. Once I took care of all that, it’s been perfect.

Oh, and that blower cover looks great!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on March 14, 2021, 09:34:40 pm
The mega is cranking out good parts steady now.  The only part that gives me trouble are the big z-bases on the right.  They were printed on the mini and warped a bit, but probably still useable.  They warp on the mega too.  It's a big block and fairly dense.

Extrusion won't be here until May, so I tinkered with the 1000mm sticks I bought before.  Chopped it up into a 250mm Voron 1.8 kit...mostly.  Had to use 20x40 on some parts.  Just going to throw leftover parts at it then see where it stands.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210315/d55720057489cac8479009f5ac033c74.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210315/9778945f2a06ddbda48eb84007f99aa7.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on March 15, 2021, 12:46:37 am
That’s awesome, dude. Nice to see


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on March 16, 2021, 01:13:06 pm
Stimulus money has me throwing money at the Voron BOM just to get it over with.

Bought the expensive Igus chains ($70).  I have generic chains on my 3018cnc which won't lay flat and it bothers me.
Bought an acrylic and laser cut aluminum panel sets from printedsolid.  (chloroplast seems kinda chincy)
Bought a 350x350 PEI spring steel sheet and magnet set not on the standard BOM.
Overpaid for stuff on Amazon just to get it over with.

Currently at $1,611
Still have to buy the SKR boards/drivers and Raspberry Pi.
I may just use the two SKR1.3 boards I have.
So we are coming in around $1,700-1,800.
I could do much better with what I know now, but that is where I'm at.
Probably could have bought a real nice printer already built for that.

The kits on Ali-Express look like a great deal now, even if some parts need to be swapped out for better quality.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on March 16, 2021, 01:18:29 pm
You’re all in, dude. I admire that. I’m telling you, From what I’ve seen from my friend’s Voron, the journey will be worth it.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on March 19, 2021, 08:54:17 am
I replaced the FEP on my resin printer.
if i just arrange prints around the missing part of polarizer things print fine.
a new screen with glass over the polarizer has been ordered.
but, since i really only print minis on it i can work around it until it needs replacement.

can't wait to see some voron's built and running.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on March 19, 2021, 03:52:08 pm
I replaced the FEP on my resin printer.
if i just arrange prints around the missing part of polarizer things print fine.
a new screen with glass over the polarizer has been ordered.
but, since i really only print minis on it i can work around it until it needs replacement.

can't wait to see some voron's built and running.

So is the resin worth the hassle?
How about for someone who only occasionally prints mins?

The ABS prints on my enclosed mp mini select were turning out short.
Not sure if it is from the ABS shrinking or the printer losing z-steps.
Outside of the enclosure, the z-axis is accurate.  I think maybe the z axis stepper was overheating.

I installed a .2mm nozzle thinking I would use it for miniature stuff, but haven't printed anything yet.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on March 20, 2021, 08:49:16 am
Bought the expensive Igus chains ($70).  I have generic chains on my 3018cnc which won't lay flat and it bothers me.

These weren't worth it.  They curve upward exactly like the cheap generic ones I have.
Maybe it is part of the design I don't understand to keep them from binding.

Either way, when you build a Voron, buy generic and save money to spend elsewhere on the build.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on March 20, 2021, 09:35:13 am

So is the resin worth the hassle?
How about for someone who only occasionally prints mins?

The ABS prints on my enclosed mp mini select were turning out short.
Not sure if it is from the ABS shrinking or the printer losing z-steps.
Outside of the enclosure, the z-axis is accurate.  I think maybe the z axis stepper was overheating.

I installed a .2mm nozzle thinking I would use it for miniature stuff, but haven't printed anything yet.

if you are only printing a few it may not be worth it.
you need gloves when handling the resin and emptying the vat.
the resin gets everywhere no matter how hard you try not to drip.
I use mr. clean in a sonic cleaner to get the excess resin off my mini's since it's cheaper than isopropyl and so much easier than shaking them in a container.
then i use an old tooth brush to clean the mr clean off them.
i built a curing station that took me 10 mins. to make.

you need a funnel and a paint filter for when you pour the resin back into the container when a print does fail and you need to clean the vat. there could be bits of plastic are floating in it.
i gotta say it was a HUGE pain in the ass for me when i started using the resin printer but now i have a system and it isn't so bad.

I printed a dozen or so mini's for the Dungeon! board game and they came out ok on my mini with a .2mm nozzle.
not a lot of facial detail but you could tell what what class each mini was for the game.
I see people get better fdm prints and it comes down to how long you want to print for and the scale of the mini.
here is a pic of my .2mm  fdm prints next to my resin prints.
I've seen people get much better fdm prints but they say print time for one mini is 4hrs.
i'm printing tree's in pet-g now on my mini delta and they are coming out good.
I'll still print larger miniatures like giants on FDM also. the quality is good enough for larger models.

I plan to print more mini's though and you can print 5 or 6 mini's in 3hrs or less on resin.
plus they really do look close to injection molded mini's you buy.

ok, for some reason my pic of my minis doesn't want to upload.
i get a security error.
i'll upload later.


Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on March 20, 2021, 02:41:02 pm
jr. extruder just needed oiling.
but had to disassemble the whole thing to do it.
then the ptfe connector gave up the ghost when i went to run a test print.
LOL!

I can't replace the extruder because the proprietary firmware doesn't allow e-step adjusting.
it was their thing.
easy 3d printers with easy to replace modular parts and locked firmware.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Vigo on March 20, 2021, 02:45:43 pm
Where do you get your miniature models, nitro? (or do you design your own?) Last time I checked, Thingiverse was only good for certain minis.

Love playing Dungeon! with my oldest son, BTW!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on March 20, 2021, 04:29:01 pm
Where do you get your miniature models, nitro? (or do you design your own?) Last time I checked, Thingiverse was only good for certain minis.

Love playing Dungeon! with my oldest son, BTW!

MyMiniFactory Is a great place for minis

https://www.myminifactory.com
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on March 21, 2021, 10:54:57 am
Where do you get your miniature models, nitro? (or do you design your own?) Last time I checked, Thingiverse was only good for certain minis.

Love playing Dungeon! with my oldest son, BTW!

My buddies and I play it every yr on our lake trip. :)

thingiverse, and as was said myminifactory.
thingiverse has a horrible search engine. google works better.
most models i used for Dungeon! were from the guy who does pocket tactics and there are large collections of mini's with non-descriptive names you have to download and pick through.
shapeways also.
I print the free one's mostly.

I'm looking to start doing skirmish battles with friends.
like the war hammer wars but with warbands instead of armies.
I have a buddy who just got a resin printer also and he's been churning them out.
He's been doing model painting and showed me which air brush and paints to get.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on March 26, 2021, 08:27:54 am
Just ordered the last of the stuff for the Voron.  Total damage $1,828.
I could do much better if doing it again.

My advice: 
Only use the sourcing guide for item reference.

Watch nero3dp's youtube videos before ordering anything.  The sourcing guide is not as set in stone as I thought when ordering.  I ordered the black robot digg rails from the sourcing guide then saw a video where he said not to buy the black rails from robot digg because they were more brittle. The sourcing guide changed later.  I bought an Skr3 board from the sourcing guide and the guide later changed to Skr4.
Join and check the Discord forum (I still haven't).

Place bigger orders at fewer vendors even if the individual part may be more.
If doing it over again, I would have gotten as many of the parts from Powge and TriangleLabs as possible.
For the hardware, I would have ordered 100pc bags from China for any bolts that I needed more than 25 of and tried to cover some of the others with assortment sets.
We are screwing together plastic and aluminum.  It doesn't take grade 8 bolts.

EDIT: I also would have bought generic cable chains instead of the Igus ones.

If doing it over again, I might even just order a kit knowing that I'll have to swap in some better parts.

Now that all the parts printed except for the skirts (which will be printed on the voron), I am circling back around to the main z-drive units which were warped.
Last night I printed one on a 110 degree bed, aquanet hairspray on anycubic ultrabase, draft shield enabled in cura, enclosed printer that stayed around 49-50 degrees.
...still very slight warp on the edges.  For all the other parts, hairspray and the enclosure with the front left open has been good enough.  The problem is that these are big dense chunks of ABS (using 40% infill).
eSun ABS+ came back into stock on amazon and I snagged a roll, so we'll see if that warps next week.


Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on March 26, 2021, 12:02:09 pm
DAMN!
if this thing prints that well you could probably start a business doing prints on commission.
I assume this printer will handle nylon and more exotic materials when enclosed?

It was probably posted before but what is the build volume?



Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on March 26, 2021, 01:03:46 pm
DAMN!
if this thing prints that well you could probably start a business doing prints on commission.
I assume this printer will handle nylon and more exotic materials when enclosed?

It was probably posted before but what is the build volume?
350mmx350mm
All the parts seem little compared to how it looks in pictures.  It will probably only hit the temperatures I am already getting with the Mega inside a foam insulated box.  I am hoping to print 1/16 scale RC bodies in one piece.

I started a 250x250 Voron 1.8ish build using leftovers and parts I already had on hand.  That will be the hot one with a hardened nozzle.  Loosely following nero3dp's hot boi build.

 I don't want to sink any money into that one until the 2.4 is done though.  Gonna start working on sub-assemblies this weekend, but the frame won't be here until May.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on March 26, 2021, 04:21:32 pm
DAMN!
if this thing prints that well you could probably start a business doing prints on commission.
I assume this printer will handle nylon and more exotic materials when enclosed?

It was probably posted before but what is the build volume?
350mmx350mm
All the parts seem little compared to how it looks in pictures.  It will probably only hit the temperatures I am already getting with the Mega inside a foam insulated box.  I am hoping to print 1/16 scale RC bodies in one piece.

I started a 250x250 Voron 1.8ish build using leftovers and parts I already had on hand.  That will be the hot one with a hardened nozzle.  Loosely following nero3dp's hot boi build.

 I don't want to sink any money into that one until the 2.4 is done though.  Gonna start working on sub-assemblies this weekend, but the frame won't be here until May.

Those RC bodies are big enough where you can get some amazing detail with .08mm layer height.
Pet-g would be a good standard filament for those.
since you will most likely be painting them the discoloration from sanding pet-g won't be an issue.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on March 27, 2021, 06:48:14 am
eSun ABS+ came early.  ABS+ part is top, regular ABS part is bottom.  You can see an edge on each where the part lifted as it shrank.  While the ABS+ did lift a little bit less, I am not overly impressed.  The corners still lifted despite taking a chunk out of my ultrabase.  It did not bridge as well as regular ABS.  It was left overnight, was cool when removed, and didn't take much force. While the base stuck, just above the base still shrank resulting in the side curving in like a vase (slightly).  The color is also flat and will not look right mated to shiny ABS parts, so if you're going to use ABS+, use it for everything.

So I'm going back to troubleshooting regular ABS.  I think my infill pattern may be contributing to the problem (tri-hexagon), as long straight runs shrinking are what causes enough force for the corners to lift.  I don't think tabs would help just yet.  The part is useable, but I'd still like to improve my abilities with ABS.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210327/d073dfc76195ec4a4d00f6fbb1d313cf.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210327/5e5895ce8d85417f08c378fa91b05a90.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on March 28, 2021, 11:28:18 am
try a heat lamp.
I have this hanging off the top bar on the Z axis with a non-infrared 250W heat lamp.
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71In%2B7SOjJL._AC_SL1500_.jpg)

I use it for ABS prints only and get very little warpage.
however I keep the infill low and increase the shells for most of my prints.

not sure how a 45% infill part would print, but with an enclosure it should keep things from cooling to quickly.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on March 28, 2021, 03:59:57 pm
Parts have less warp with gyroid infill, but the surface looks weird like all the shaking from doing the gyroid transfered to the outside. It's only visible under bright light at an angle. Anyways, have just a tiny bit of warp on the corners that probably could be fixed with tabs, but I've wasted enough plastic.  I deemed them good enough.

Started to organize parts and decided the best way to store them until the frame arrives is to go ahead and build sub-assemblies.  Waiting on the frame is actually a good thing, as now I won't rush anything just to get it together.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210328/c0b92324d0adbab10aac988ff7e9b69b.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210328/4694eebfc7c6477ce4188c8a41eac7cf.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on March 28, 2021, 04:49:09 pm
Went ahead and bought the Voron parts from the Print It Forward program.  I'm pretty happy with the quality.  Time to start building.  I will still need to print a lot of the decorative pieces.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on March 28, 2021, 05:05:49 pm


Went ahead and bought the Voron parts from the Print It Forward program.

Those look great!
I'm a bit dissapointed in the dull color of the Hatchbox red, but not enough to redo anything.  Yours looks like they have more color.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on March 28, 2021, 05:16:12 pm
Yeah I'm still going to have several parts to print.  This is just the standard parts needed to build it so you can print all the other decorative stuff.  It was $115 for these parts but would have been $225 for a full set.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on March 28, 2021, 09:02:57 pm
Parts have less warp with gyroid infill, but the surface looks weird like all the shaking from doing the gyroid transfered to the outside. It's only visible under bright light at an angle. Anyways, have just a tiny bit of warp on the corners that probably could be fixed with tabs, but I've wasted enough plastic.  I deemed them good enough.

Started to organize parts and decided the best way to store them until the frame arrives is to go ahead and build sub-assemblies.  Waiting on the frame is actually a good thing, as now I won't rush anything just to get it together.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210328/c0b92324d0adbab10aac988ff7e9b69b.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210328/4694eebfc7c6477ce4188c8a41eac7cf.jpg)

depending on your slicer adding a top surface skin layer or more top/bottom layers or shells they all use different terms makes them prettier.

after you build the voron, you can reprint them. :)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on March 28, 2021, 09:29:49 pm
...if I only had a frame....

Some of the hardware from boltdepot turned out to be the regular zinc plated instead of black.  Not sure that I paid any attention when clicking through the sourcing guide and ordering.  It wouldn't bother me except that I've gone to the trouble of doing everything by the book down to black rails and frame.  Guess I have a month to replace them or throw in some other silver accents. 

Sub assemblies went together super easy.  T-nuts are just there to keep the bolts with the assembly.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210329/eb447cf083e970a6e8471839a5f7f021.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on March 28, 2021, 11:17:00 pm
I wonder how they did this: pen, maybe?

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210329/cd1be4e5b971fad8cdad908ac7a7bb3a.jpg)


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Vigo on March 29, 2021, 01:02:08 am
Looks like filament, that’s gotta be from a dual extruder printer..

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on March 29, 2021, 01:06:13 am
I wonder how they did this: pen, maybe?
Looks like filament, that’s gotta be from a dual extruder printer..
Agreed.

Probably a dual extruder setup based on the very similarly-shaped thin spots in the red at the top and bottom of both O's, the evenly-colored red whisker at the bottom of the V, and the appearance of the other two black parts with red highlights in the original photo.


Scott
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on March 29, 2021, 01:10:57 am
I wonder how they did this: pen, maybe?
Looks like filament, that’s gotta be from a dual extruder printer..
Agreed.

Probably a dual extruder setup based on the very similarly-shaped thin spots in the red at the top and bottom of both O's, the evenly-colored red whisker at the bottom of the V, and the appearance of the other two black parts with red highlights in the original photo.


Scott

By pen, I meant those 3D printing pens that use filament. I've seen some people comment that they use them to fill in gaps.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on March 29, 2021, 01:24:33 am
By pen, I meant those 3D printing pens that use filament. I've seen some people comment that they use them to fill in gaps.
Given how consistant the thin spots on the O's are, I really doubt it was any kind of manually controlled process.

You need a plastic pooping robot to get that level of precision.   :lol


Scott
EDIT: Here's a closeup of those "thin spots" that happen on the curved parts of the O's and the R where a slicer program might not fill the gap.  Notice that the straight lines of the letters are perfectly straight, even, and filled.  The red straight lines on the right side of the V are also perfectly parallel and evenly spaced with the surrounding black lines.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on March 29, 2021, 09:12:58 am
Yeah its filament.  The guy that shipped me the set was super proud of it.  If you look close enough several of those black parts on the left side have red stripes  on some edges.  I had mixed feelings cause I thought that part looked pretty cool as red and he made it black with the red lettering.  If you look at the PIF Discussion on Discord you can see where I posted the photos and the guy who printed explained how he spent a lot of time with the slicer to get this right.  The photo makes the imperfections stand out worse than they really are.  Those little creases can't even be felt it feels super smooth to the touch.  <queue the That's what she said meme>
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on March 29, 2021, 11:20:21 am
Some of the hardware from boltdepot turned out to be the regular zinc plated instead of black.  Not sure that I paid any attention when clicking through the sourcing guide and ordering.  It wouldn't bother me except that I've gone to the trouble of doing everything by the book down to black rails and frame.  Guess I have a month to replace them or throw in some other silver accents. 

Yeah I made the same error.   I got no building done yesterday as planned.  First I couldn't find my package from Bolt Depot.  For some reason my brain was remembering a different box type and shape.  I was going crazy having people help me look and I knew I had only put all deliveries in two places.  On top of a pinball machine and in a crate.  I finally quit and came downstairs later and said well I'm gonna start opening all these  boxes.  Second box I pick up turns out to be a USPS small flat rate box with my bolts sitting on the pinball machine the whole time.  I was like did someone find this and put this here?  They were all like no so I guess I overlooked it the entire time.

Then after seeing your post I look at my bags and 5 of them are silver parts.  I could only find 2 of them in black at Bolt Depot so I went to McMasterCarr and was able to order all but 1 screw type.  Cost a little more because I had to buy lots of 100.  Actually McMasterCarr had that last screw (M3 x 0.8mm x 40mm) but it was $7 for 5 of them and I had bought 30 zinc ones from Bolt Depot for $0.15 apiece.  Bolt Depot only went up to 35mm for that size in black.  I decided I'd rather figure out another way to color those black instead of paying almost $50 to get that one bag of screws.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on March 31, 2021, 01:02:58 pm
Started building my Voron frame last night.  Ran into trouble immediately.  The M5 roll in Tnuts I bought from the sourcing list are almost impossible to insert into the MISUMI 2020 rails.  I say almost because I was able to use a screwdriver and bang it with a lot of force to finally get one in.  They slide in from the side just fine but for drop in they are slightly too large.  I ordered a different brand from Amazon so will try those out.  If you build you may want to test them out first because if you know its an issue you could pre-insert them into the rails before you assemble the frame.  I really feel they should be telling folks to do that anyways.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on March 31, 2021, 01:30:16 pm
Started building my Voron frame last night.  Ran into trouble immediately.  The M5 roll in Tnuts I bought from the sourcing list are almost impossible to insert into the MISUMI 2020 rails.  I say almost because I was able to use a screwdriver and bang it with a lot of force to finally get one in.  They slide in from the side just fine but for drop in they are slightly too large.  I ordered a different brand from Amazon so will try those out.  If you build you may want to test them out first because if you know its an issue you could pre-insert them into the rails before you assemble the frame.  I really feel they should be telling folks to do that anyways.

Thanks for the heads up.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on April 01, 2021, 10:16:39 am
Well learning mistake #2.  I was opening up one of the linear rails from the plastic and I cut along side it so I could pull it out from the wrapping.  But when I went to pull it out the square platform that rolls along the rail snagged on the plastic so the rail pulled out leaving the platform still in the plastic.  It didn't look like a big deal but when I pulled the platform out to look at it all these tiny 1mm bearings fell out into the rug and I'm like WTF.  Took me 30 minutes to fix it.  I used magnets to try to find all the bearings and then inserted them into the slots which they don't hold into very well.  Then as I'm trying to push the rail back in the bearings kept wanting to pop out.  I finally got it though.  Lesson learned do not let that platform come off the end of the rail.  There are rubber inserts on each end to prevent it but that popped right off when I pulled the rail out of the plastic.

Then I began to install the rails and I had the same issue with the M3 roll in T-nuts not fitting into the MISUMI 2020 frame.  I thought I had tested the M3's and saw it working but guess not.  I hadn't ordered any replacements for those.  I did some searching and found several folks complaining in the comments for the T-nuts on aliexpress where the sourcing guide leads you to buy that these are too big for the MISUMI frame.  I also searched and found many folks on Discord having t-nut issues for the Voron.  I finally said screw it and ordered the expensive ones from MISUMI.  Now my damn t-nuts are going to be 10% of the build cost.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on April 01, 2021, 11:40:02 am
FYI, you are supposed to degrease and regrease the bearings before install.
https://youtu.be/Q0l-zMLztCs

If you want to go for the full rebuild.  (you already had them apart).
https://youtu.be/i_F7D4UgkWY

I've only gotten as far as buying the simple green to soak them.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on April 01, 2021, 11:43:48 am
Thanks....I'll look again but was that mentioned in the build guide?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on April 01, 2021, 12:07:25 pm
Thanks....I'll look again but was that mentioned in the build guide?

No.  I wish Nero 3dp had more of these shorter videos to cover the entire build. 
Other good information is there on his channel, but buried in 3.5 hour livestreams that I don't have time to sift through.
Occasionally I will play one in the background while doing other things and pick up useful things.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on April 01, 2021, 07:57:19 pm
Wow I've got the worst luck.  The guy that printed my parts messaged and says he accidentally used old files so he needs to reprint them and it will be 2-3 weeks.  Told me to throw away all those parts I showed you guys.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on April 02, 2021, 12:33:31 pm
Wow I've got the worst luck.  The guy that printed my parts messaged and says he accidentally used old files so he needs to reprint them and it will be 2-3 weeks.  Told me to throw away all those parts I showed you guys.

That sucks.
but at least he reached out to you.


Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on April 02, 2021, 01:25:11 pm
Told me to throw away all those parts I showed you guys.

I bet most of them are still usable. 

Looking at them, the power inlet panel is for the separate switch and filtered inlet option.
Did you buy the filtered power inlet, or the regular inlet/switch combo we all use on arcade machines?
(you might need to clarify with him which one you need)

I bought the regular unfiltered one, but am thinking that the center of the back of the machine isn't the most convenient location for the power switch so I may move the switch to the back corner.

EDIT: If you bought everything on the sourcing guide around the same time I did, you probably have both.  ;)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on April 03, 2021, 10:28:40 am
Looking at them, the power inlet panel is for the separate switch and filtered inlet option.
Did you buy the filtered power inlet, or the regular inlet/switch combo we all use on arcade machines?
(you might need to clarify with him which one you need)

I bought the regular unfiltered one, but am thinking that the center of the back of the machine isn't the most convenient location for the power switch so I may move the switch to the back corner.

EDIT: If you bought everything on the sourcing guide around the same time I did, you probably have both.  ;)

Thanks for catching that I didn't even notice.  I'm not even sure the one I bought would fit either one I was going to have to wait and see.  I do not believe I bought both because by the time I got to those parts I was following the BOM and only using the sourcing guide to find where to buy.  I remember being quite confused by what they wanted me to get for the power inlet.  I ended up buying this one and figuring I might need to design and print my own part.  I liked this one because it fit my black/red theme.

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/FN9289-10-06/817-1693-ND/3516716 (https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/FN9289-10-06/817-1693-ND/3516716)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on April 03, 2021, 11:34:46 am
Looking at them, the power inlet panel is for the separate switch and filtered inlet option.
Did you buy the filtered power inlet, or the regular inlet/switch combo we all use on arcade machines?
(you might need to clarify with him which one you need)

I bought the regular unfiltered one, but am thinking that the center of the back of the machine isn't the most convenient location for the power switch so I may move the switch to the back corner.

EDIT: If you bought everything on the sourcing guide around the same time I did, you probably have both.  ;)

Thanks for catching that I didn't even notice.  I'm not even sure the one I bought would fit either one I was going to have to wait and see.  I do not believe I bought both because by the time I got to those parts I was following the BOM and only using the sourcing guide to find where to buy.  I remember being quite confused by what they wanted me to get for the power inlet.  I ended up buying this one and figuring I might need to design and print my own part.  I liked this one because it fit my black/red theme.

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/FN9289-10-06/817-1693-ND/3516716 (https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/FN9289-10-06/817-1693-ND/3516716)

Looks like the standard size mounting hole so I think you'll be ok...provided they print the piece for the non-filtered inlet. 
I think they switched away from the filtered inlet somewhere in the revisions on the way to 2.4, but the STL files still have both options.

I put together the carriage and extruder this morning.  No word on the rails which aren't supposed to ship until 5/5.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on April 03, 2021, 12:06:52 pm
I put together the carriage and extruder this morning.  No word on the rails which aren't supposed to ship until 5/5.

I remember from when I joined this thread you were saying that delivery date was so far out.  That's why I got surprised my rails arrived so fast.  Did you not order from MISUMI?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on April 03, 2021, 01:35:49 pm
I put together the carriage and extruder this morning.  No word on the rails which aren't supposed to ship until 5/5.

I remember from when I joined this thread you were saying that delivery date was so far out.  That's why I got surprised my rails arrived so fast.  Did you not order from MISUMI?
Yeah.  When I ordered the lead time for black pre-drilled/cut extrusion was that far out.  Last time I checked, the product page showed 4/15.  I tried the online chat to see if I could get my order moved up, but the customer service person didn't respond to the question.  I could have had it right away if I'd bought silver/clearcoat. 

I had some silver extrusion on hand, but did not trust myself to cut any pieces longer than my table saw sled allows.  I ended up chopping those up into a smaller voron 1.8 frame.  Haven't printed any parts for that yet.  It will be more about using leftover parts and what I have on hand rather than strictly following the plan like I am doing with the 2.4.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on April 03, 2021, 01:45:01 pm
Yeah I ordered black predrilled cut extrusions as well and I believe I ordered after you did.  It shipped within a week.  Only difference might be I ordered for 300mm frame but I can't see that being the reason.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on April 05, 2021, 07:31:16 am
When I started on the Voron project, I didn't realize that the printhead assembly that holds the hotend and cooling duct can be swapped out fairly easily.
It's just a matter of backing out two bolts to flip the fan up, two bolts to free the printhead, and disconnecting two wiring connectors.

The V6 on the monoprice mini select was having underextrusion issues with PLA.
After some testing and research I believe that the PLA is sticking to the inside of the stock V6 heat break when retracted far enough to pull melted plastic up that far.
The extruder on the mini isn't good enough to overcome the resistance.  If I give the plastic a pull and a push things start flowing again. 
I reduced retraction to 2mm.  The problem went away, but now I have stringing.

So I ordered some ptfe lined heatbreaks.  Also ordered one with a 4.1mm bore that allows the bowden tube to be all the way against the nozzle itself, but have to wait for that one to get here from China.

Where this pertains to the Voron having swappable printheads is that I now plan to make a separate printhead for PLA and maybe a third with a larger nozzle.
Heater cartridge and thermistor will need to be the same type on each since those are set in the firmware.

For anyone planning a future build, it will require two more M3x40 and two more M3x16 cap head bolts per printhead (in addition to the extra hotend/thermistor/heater).
The V6 clone from Trianglelab makes it fairly cheap to add an extra printhead.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on April 05, 2021, 11:23:42 am
Yeah, that’s pretty cool. I have mine built, I just need to take the time to swap it on to my machine.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on April 07, 2021, 09:27:02 pm
Hey Gilrock, got a tip for you.

I degreased and regreased my robotdigg linear rails this evening.
They seemed fine out of the package, but I am trying to follow the Voron way to the letter.
They didn't seem any better and maybe a bit worse afterward.  There were spots they bogged down or hung up slightly.
After trial and error and close inspection I discovered small spots in the channels the bearings ride in (on the rail) that didn't look like anything more than grease.
Those were the points where the carriage was sticking though.

After clearing the channels until absolutely nothing was visible the carriages fall freely from one end to the other.
I cleaned them by pushing the carriage to one side and then wiping the channel with my fingernail covered by a paper towel.  Always away from the carriage and always all the way past the end.
Repeat for the opposite direction.  Not sure if I was just clearing excess grease or there was tiny tiny debris mixed in, but I feel a lot better about the performance of the rails now.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on April 08, 2021, 08:24:59 am
Well I didn't talk about it but dude I already disassembled, degreased and re-greased 8 rails last Saturday.  It was 5-6 hours work.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on April 13, 2021, 09:14:43 am
Yeah I ordered black predrilled cut extrusions as well and I believe I ordered after you did.  It shipped within a week.  Only difference might be I ordered for 300mm frame but I can't see that being the reason.

This was the difference.
I had forgotten but the longest lead time was on the uprights which are 530mm on the 350x350.  I'm guessing Misumi didn't have any 1000mm in stock to cut to length, but did have 500mm (or at least expected it in in stock sooner).  The lead time on the HFSB5-2020-530-LCP-RCP uprights is now June.  Hopefully I still get mine early May.

The Mega has been doing a pretty good job cranking out ABS parts, so I went ahead and printed the rest of the parts including the skirts.
There isn't much more that I can assemble without the frame. 
It has been nice to work on it without there being any rush.

I may try to go ahead and set up the software which is going to be my least favorite part.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on April 13, 2021, 10:16:30 am
Yeah I received my re-printed Voron Print It Forward parts.  He didn't do the dual-color thing on the reprint.  I also received the MISUMI roll-in t-nuts and they actually work after the previous 2 orders failing to fit.  I wasted so much money on t-nuts.  And I got my IGUS chains.  That was an ordeal to order.  First IGUS emails and says they don't have what I want in stock but they have an alternative that bends the opposite way.  I said no I either want everything I've ordered or a refund.  Then they email that they can backorder the items if I want so I respond how long would a backorder take.  They email back and said 4-5 weeks.  I replied that is fine and then the darn order shows up in less than 2 weeks.  I've had too many other things going on to continue the build yet.  Part of the problem is I really have nothing I want to print when its done I just wanted to build one...lol.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on April 13, 2021, 10:49:37 am
Yeah I received my re-printed Voron Print It Forward parts.  He didn't do the dual-color thing on the reprint.  I also received the MISUMI roll-in t-nuts and they actually work after the previous 2 orders failing to fit.  I wasted so much money on t-nuts.  And I got my IGUS chains.  That was an ordeal to order.  First IGUS emails and says they don't have what I want in stock but they have an alternative that bends the opposite way.  I said no I either want everything I've ordered or a refund.  Then they email that they can backorder the items if I want so I respond how long would a backorder take.  They email back and said 4-5 weeks.  I replied that is fine and then the darn order shows up in less than 2 weeks.  I've had too many other things going on to continue the build yet.  Part of the problem is I really have nothing I want to print when its done I just wanted to build one...lol.

I haven't tested my T-nuts yet.  Just loaded up a cart at Misumi and by the time shipping is added it will be over $100.   :o
I think I'll do my best to pre-load the ones I have.   I am not above taking them to the grinding wheel either.


Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on April 13, 2021, 11:09:59 am
Yep they are about $100 from MISUMI.  I grinded a few t-nuts on the belt sander and then said screw this.  Don't know why everyone is always trying to save money I feel good when I spend it...lol.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on April 13, 2021, 10:40:13 pm
Tried the roll in T-nuts.  The M5 are fine, but the M3 have no chance of working properly.  Both are from "Change da Store" on Ali Express.  The M5 have more of a triangular shape that does not have any clearance problems.   I had some M4 ones from Polis3D on Amazon from a different project.  They are also the triangular kind.  Ordered a 100pc bag of M3 from there hoping they will be the same design.  At least I can return those if they do not fit.  I will still preload as many of the fat ones as I can think to.  Thank you for the heads up.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210414/f6d8f7d9cf9db529f75db5a403fa783d.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on April 14, 2021, 09:15:14 am
That's what's weird I also ordered all my original t-nuts from "Chang da Store" and neither my M5 or M3 would fit.  I saw others in Discord saying they had the same experience as you where M5 would fit.  It would be nice if the instructions would just tell us how many to preload in each rail section.  Funny I don't mind spending the $100 for t-nuts to a save some frustration but I get pissed when Digikey splits up my order into 4 different deliveries charging me shipping on every one.  I got a package yesterday that had pins that cost 44 cents and charged me $7 shipping.  I didn't even notice they had been backordered.  Not sure if I missed it but if they have an option to not split up the deliveries it could save you some shipping but there was like a month difference between my first and last delivery from them.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Vigo on April 18, 2021, 04:57:57 am
Spent half the night compiling Marlin firmware for my Sovol Printer. This is my first time compiling more than some simple arduino script, so I am pretty pleased with myself. I have been getting into modding my printer quite a bit, and that includes putting in a new BTT SKR board, which is not really designed for the Sovol. I was using someone else's firmware when I realized that the hotend fan was not turning on. Kinda a problem, so the only solution was to roll my own.

Anyway, I'll share pics of where I am at with my printer in a few weeks. I need sleep. For tonight, I'll share the custom boot screen I made. I gave her a stripper name.  ;D

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on April 18, 2021, 11:23:43 am
Boot screen looks awesome Vigo!

I went through the Marlin thing when compiling it for my monoprice mini select.  Make backups of your files including bin files.  At some point my build went to crap and I had to start over.  It went pretty quick the second time around though.  I was hoping the Voron build would be plug and play on the software side, but looking ahead I think it is going to be another huge learning curve time sink.

After I finished printing ABS Voron parts on the Mega Ss, I needed something with a cooling fan to start printing PLA again.  So I got this setup off thingiverse.  Pretty happy with it although I still can't seem to get this thing dialed in as well as the mini was.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210418/12a8aad1ffed5a20e99782d6d890d6ad.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Vigo on April 18, 2021, 01:56:41 pm
Thanks, BadMouth! Yeah, I will keep a backup as soon as I can confirm the settings are all good. I have a hunch I might need a few tweaks because I was shooting at the hip on a couple of the settings.

Hope for your sake the Voron is pretty plug and play, but after watching you guys hash out your builds, I am getting the impression you are going to finish up with the technical knowledge to start your own line of 3d Printers. I'd back your kickstarter.  :lol

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on April 18, 2021, 07:25:01 pm
Kept the printers running last night and today printing pegboard accessories for the RC/3D printing area of my home office.  Still a work in progress, but nice to have this stuff up off the desk.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210418/72db543b7fddcb5fc2a2d16543570620.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on April 24, 2021, 01:54:39 pm
Just an Fyi for those who think they will want an octopi server for their new printers.
I bought a couple of these and they run it swimmingly.
Im using the diet pi os and its built-in installer.
$20 shipped.
Comes in a case, sdcard, and power supply.
Will need a heatsink.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0868WSTXH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_N7CG39KDY1A30Q3QNFJD
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on April 24, 2021, 03:40:03 pm
Just an Fyi for those who think they will want an octopi server for their new printers.
I bought a couple of these and they run it swimmingly.
Im using the diet pi os and its built-in installer.
$20 shipped.
Comes in a case, sdcard, and power supply.
Will need a heatsink.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0868WSTXH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_N7CG39KDY1A30Q3QNFJD
Well, I just ordered one for the hell of it. You got any more information on what I can run on it? Might be good for a little project computer.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on April 24, 2021, 05:40:14 pm
Just an Fyi for those who think they will want an octopi server for their new printers.
I bought a couple of these and they run it swimmingly.
Im using the diet pi os and its built-in installer.
$20 shipped.
Comes in a case, sdcard, and power supply.
Will need a heatsink.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0868WSTXH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_N7CG39KDY1A30Q3QNFJD
Well, I just ordered one for the hell of it. You got any more information on what I can run on it? Might be good for a little project computer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

for starters, when you get it you will wonder "huh?" because it's actually some kind of network device.
you need to take the case apart to get to rock64.

recallbox runs on it pretty good.
armbian does also.
they have the video drivers.

dietpi does not.
most of the OS images out in the wild are a yr old because this card has been out for almost 5yrs and the pro version is what people are mostly supporting.
it appears to be roughly the same speed as an RPI3 (not the b).

the lack of current support for this board made me decide to just toss diet-pi on it and go with octoprint.
the diet pi distro has A LOT of software designed to make this an appliance.
web servers, media servers, home automation, wifi node, minecraft servers (I might use one to pull double duty for the kids)
too much to list.

https://dietpi.com/dietpi-software.html


Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on April 24, 2021, 05:59:21 pm
Just an Fyi for those who think they will want an octopi server for their new printers.
I bought a couple of these and they run it swimmingly.
Im using the diet pi os and its built-in installer.
$20 shipped.
Comes in a case, sdcard, and power supply.
Will need a heatsink.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0868WSTXH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_N7CG39KDY1A30Q3QNFJD
Well, I just ordered one for the hell of it. You got any more information on what I can run on it? Might be good for a little project computer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

for starters, when you get it you will wonder "huh?" because it's actually some kind of network device.
you need to take the case apart to get to rock64.

recallbox runs on it pretty good.
armbian does also.
they have the video drivers.

dietpi does not.
most of the OS images out in the wild are a yr old because this card has been out for almost 5yrs and the pro version is what people are mostly supporting.
it appears to be roughly the same speed as an RPI3 (not the b).

the lack of current support for this board made me decide to just toss diet-pi on it and go with octoprint.
the diet pi distro has A LOT of software designed to make this an appliance.
web servers, media servers, home automation, wifi node, minecraft servers (I might use one to pull double duty for the kids)
too much to list.

https://dietpi.com/dietpi-software.html
Nice, thanks for the link!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on April 30, 2021, 04:55:55 pm
Just an Fyi for those who think they will want an octopi server for their new printers.
I bought a couple of these and they run it swimmingly.
Im using the diet pi os and its built-in installer.
$20 shipped.
Comes in a case, sdcard, and power supply.
Will need a heatsink.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0868WSTXH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_N7CG39KDY1A30Q3QNFJD
Well, I just ordered one for the hell of it. You got any more information on what I can run on it? Might be good for a little project computer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

for starters, when you get it you will wonder "huh?" because it's actually some kind of network device.
you need to take the case apart to get to rock64.

recallbox runs on it pretty good.
armbian does also.
they have the video drivers.

dietpi does not.
most of the OS images out in the wild are a yr old because this card has been out for almost 5yrs and the pro version is what people are mostly supporting.
it appears to be roughly the same speed as an RPI3 (not the b).

the lack of current support for this board made me decide to just toss diet-pi on it and go with octoprint.
the diet pi distro has A LOT of software designed to make this an appliance.
web servers, media servers, home automation, wifi node, minecraft servers (I might use one to pull double duty for the kids)
too much to list.

https://dietpi.com/dietpi-software.html
The device showed up today, can’t wait to mess with it!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Vigo on May 03, 2021, 07:59:41 am
For those of you with those flexible magnetic beds, are the bases that adhere to the printer plate pretty thin and heat conductive? I am considering getting one, but I have a few glass beds I swap in depending on print need, and don't want to lose use of that. I also saw a person just not adhering it to their bed, just clipped in, is that feasible?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on May 03, 2021, 11:42:57 am
For those of you with those flexible magnetic beds, are the bases that adhere to the printer plate pretty thin and heat conductive? I am considering getting one, but I have a few glass beds I swap in depending on print need, and don't want to lose use of that. I also saw a person just not adhering it to their bed, just clipped in, is that feasible?

My experience is very limited, but here it is.
I installed it normally on an anycubic mega s.  It took the shape of the heated bed, which was not flat enough to suit me.
It had high spots and low spots to where I could not find a happy medium.  This was not the fault of the flexible plate as it was just conforming to the heated bed underneath.
The first order of business would be to figure out if the plate the magnetic sheet adheres to is flat or warps when heated.

So I removed the magnet and adhesive which was a PITA.  Left without a magnet, I tried clipping the flexible sheet to a glass bed.
It worked, but the thin sheet would warp very slightly when heated.
Not sure how much trouble it was causing, but this is not the way to go.

In retrospect, I think the best solution for that particular setup (where the underlying bed is not flat) would have been to adhere the magnetic sheet to a piece of glass. 
Even though it's more material for the heat to get through, at least it would be flat.  I have not spent the money on another magnetic sheet to try it.

I still think a PEI coated spring steel sheet is the way to go and have already purchased one for my Voron build. (frame finally supposed to ship tomorrow)
The machined heated bed is flat on that though, so I don't anticipate any of the problems I had on the Mega.

The ultrabase on the Mega has worked well, especially when sprayed with aquanet hairspray.  For the ABS parts I printed, it sucked having to wait for the bed to cool enough for the parts to release (20-30min).  Then I had to wait for the bed to heat back up to 100 degrees before the next part would start printing.  With a flexible sheet, I could have kept the printer warm and running.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Vigo on May 03, 2021, 01:16:40 pm
I appreciate the full response.  :cheers:  Didn't think about warping. It wouldn't take much to create a whole new issue. I think I will stick with my current setup for now, until I feel everything else is dialed in. One less variable to worry about.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on May 04, 2021, 01:20:05 am
Ok I've got a new question for the peanut gallery.....   Has anyone tried polysmooth?    I ran across it the other day.   Supposedly it's a pla but when you put it in an enclosed space and spray it with alcohol it melts and smooths the print similar to how abs melts with acetone.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on May 04, 2021, 08:12:13 am
Ok I've got a new question for the peanut gallery.....   Has anyone tried polysmooth?    I ran across it the other day.   Supposedly it's a pla but when you put it in an enclosed space and spray it with alcohol it melts and smooths the print similar to how abs melts with acetone.

i've never heard of this stuff.
youtube has.
this guy has a chamber to put the model in.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TeW5oRYQYJk

looks straight out of sci-fi.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on May 04, 2021, 09:46:40 pm
I've been waiting for someone to test fans like this:
https://youtu.be/lcJyFUcGg8U

results (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1jV-VOd-L0NSTz7ruDRIOj3mM9WI9cRUXQDgIiIQensg/edit#gid=0)

Oddly enough, this came out just after I installed a Winsinn fan on the Mega.
All seemed well until this weekend when it was 80 degrees in the house instead of 65.
It kept under-extruding part way into each print.  When it did it sooner in the print on each consecutive attempt, I figured it was heat creep.
Back to the original fan (with a non-original toolhead and hotend) and things are working fine again.
The V6 heatsink felt cool to the touch, but I guess internally the heat was creeping up too far.
EDIT: After swapping fans and it working correctly again, I also removed the silicone sock since it was basically creating a seal between the heater block and bottom of the heatsink.

I also bought Winsinn fans for the Voron based on the sourcing guide.
Guess I'll tack another new fan onto the build cost.
Misumi extrusion was supposed to ship today and did not. 
If it doesn't ship tomorrow I am going to call and see about just getting clear anodized extrusion if black is going to take much longer.

EDIT: Misumi extrusion shipped on time and arrived in two days.  Anxious to get started, but have other obligations.  Preloaded some t-nuts and arranged the parts.  Hopefully will assemble frame tomorrow, but rest will wait until next week.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on May 09, 2021, 02:17:28 pm
Frame and motion systems done.  Belts installed, but not trimmed.  Installed heating element and magnetic sheet on build plate, but it is not bolted down yet.

At first I was upset that the magnet and spring steel sheet didn't cover the entire build plate, then I realized that is was not undersized, the build plate is oversized (14").

The aluminum composite panels are worth the price.  I was afraid they'd just be cheap foamboard with super thin aluminum on the surface.  The aluminum is pretty thick and the surface finish is perfect.  The silver edges where it was cut bothered me so I hit them with a paint pen.

Not sure how fast wiring and software will go, as I don't enjoy those things as much as building.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210509/d3a914bf2c47a41fb40237f84781e268.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on May 10, 2021, 02:44:34 pm
Looks great, dude! Excited to see your progress!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on May 12, 2021, 05:35:24 pm
For anyone who missed Marsupial's  Build your own HID-mouse compatible spinner (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,165028.0.html) project, here are two parametric mounts created in OpenSCAD.

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=387890;image)

The first one has a chamfered bezel.
- The OpenSCAD code generates a model with both the nut and the mount.
- The .zip files linked below reorient the mount so it is print-ready. (i.e. face down)
- Be sure to download the .zip files for both the desired mount and the nut.  The mount .zip files do not include the nut.

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=387703;image)

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=387704;image)

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=387705;image)

Code: [Select]
// Rotary encoder mount and nut created using thread library found at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31363

// Metric Screw Thread Library
// by Maximilian Karl <karlma@in.tum.de> (2012)
//
//
// only use module thread(P,D,h,step)
// with the parameters:
// P    - screw thread pitch
// D    - screw thread major diameter
// h    - screw thread height
// step - step size in degree
//

module screwthread_triangle(P) {
difference() {
translate([-sqrt(3)/3*P+sqrt(3)/2*P/8,0,0])
rotate([90,0,0])
cylinder(r=sqrt(3)/3*P,h=0.00001,$fn=3,center=true);

translate([0,-P/2,-P/2])
cube([P,P,P]);
}
}

module screwthread_onerotation(P,D_maj,step) {
H = sqrt(3)/2*P;
D_min = D_maj - 5*sqrt(3)/8*P;

for(i=[0:step:360-step])
hull()
for(j = [0,step])
rotate([0,0,(i+j)])
translate([D_maj/2,0,(i+j)/360*P])
screwthread_triangle(P);

translate([0,0,P/2])
cylinder(r=D_min/2,h=2*P,$fn=360/step,center=true);
}

module thread(P,D,h,step) {
for(i=[0:h/P])
translate([0,0,i*P])
screwthread_onerotation(P,D,step);
}
//
////////////////////////////////////////////
//
// Variables:
//
////////////////////////////////////////////
ThreadPitch = 1;          // Screw thread pitch
ThreadMajorDiameter = 49; // Screw thread major diameter
ThreadedRodHeight = 23.8; // Threaded rod height
ThreadStep = 2;           // Thread step size in degrees
PlateThick = 2.4;         // Mount plate/bezel thickness
BezelTopDia = 50;         // Bezel top diameter
BezelBottomDia = 55;      // Bezel bottom diameter
BezelCenterHole = 21;     // Bezel center hole
ScrewHoleBottom = 3.45;   // Bottom of screw hole diameter
ScrewHoleTop = 3.45;      // Top of screw hole diameter, for non-countersunk screws use same value as ScrewHoleBottom
ScrewDistance = 15;       // Distance from center of shaft to center of screw hole, usually 14 or 15
CenterCylinder = 40;      // Center cylinder diameter
NutDiameter = 64;         // Nut diameter (point-to-point)
NutThickness = 4;         // Nut thickness
WiggleRoom = 1.02;        // Scale multiplier for threaded rod X-axis and Y-axis that allows nut to turn easier
NutOffsetX = 70;          // X-axis offset distance of nut
//
// Number of fragments (polygon sides) used to render a full circle.
    $fn = 180; // Default = 180  Typical range = 6 - 360
    // 6 will render a circular hole as a hexagon, 8 will render a circular hole as an octagon.
    // Lower the number for faster rendering, raise the number for smoother rendering.
//
////////////////////////////////////////////
//
// Make the part:
//
////////////////////////////////////////////

// Mount
    // Bezel/mount plate minus screw holes and center hole
    difference() {
        translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight + (PlateThick/2)])
        cylinder (PlateThick, d1=BezelBottomDia, d2=BezelTopDia,center=true); // Bezel/mount plate

        translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight + (PlateThick/2)])
        rotate ([0, 0, 0])
        translate ([ScrewDistance, 0, 0])
        cylinder (PlateThick + 0.01, d1=ScrewHoleBottom, d2=ScrewHoleTop,center=true); // Screw hole 1

        translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight + (PlateThick/2)])
        rotate ([0, 0, 120])
        translate ([ScrewDistance, 0, 0])
        cylinder (PlateThick + 0.01, d1=ScrewHoleBottom, d2=ScrewHoleTop,center=true); // Screw hole 2

        translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight + (PlateThick/2)])
        rotate ([0, 0, 240])
        translate ([ScrewDistance, 0, 0])
        cylinder (PlateThick + 0.01, d1=ScrewHoleBottom, d2=ScrewHoleTop,center=true); // Screw hole 3

        translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight + (PlateThick/2)])
        cylinder (PlateThick + 0.1, d=BezelCenterHole,center=true); // Center hole

    } // End bezel/mount plate minus screw holes and center hole
//
    // Threaded rod minus center cylinder and trim top
    difference() {
        translate ([0, 0, ThreadPitch/2])
        thread(ThreadPitch, ThreadMajorDiameter, ThreadedRodHeight, ThreadStep); // Threaded rod

        translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight/2])
        cylinder (ThreadedRodHeight + 20, d=CenterCylinder,center=true); // Center cylinder

        translate ([0, 0, (ThreadedRodHeight * 1.5) + 0.01])
        cube([ThreadMajorDiameter + 20, ThreadMajorDiameter + 20, ThreadedRodHeight], center=true); // Trim top

    } // End threaded rod minus center cylinder and trim top
//   
// Nut
difference() { // Nut body minus threaded rod
    hull() {  // Nut Body
    translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, NutThickness/2])
    rotate ([0, 0, 0])
    translate ([NutDiameter/2, 0, 0])
    cylinder (NutThickness, d = 0.01, center=true);

    translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, NutThickness/2])
    rotate ([0, 0, 60])
    translate ([NutDiameter/2, 0, 0])
    cylinder (NutThickness, d = 0.01, center=true);

    translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, NutThickness/2])
    rotate ([0, 0, 120])
    translate ([NutDiameter/2, 0, 0])
    cylinder (NutThickness, d = 0.01, center=true);

    translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, NutThickness/2])
    rotate ([0, 0, 180])
    translate ([NutDiameter/2, 0, 0])
    cylinder (NutThickness, d = 0.01, center=true);

    translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, NutThickness/2])
    rotate ([0, 0, 240])
    translate ([NutDiameter/2, 0, 0])
    cylinder (NutThickness, d = 0.01, center=true);

    translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, NutThickness/2])
    rotate ([0, 0, 300])
    translate ([NutDiameter/2, 0, 0])
    cylinder (NutThickness, d = 0.01, center=true);
    } // End nut body
//
    translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, - ThreadPitch])
    scale([WiggleRoom, WiggleRoom, 1])
    thread(ThreadPitch, ThreadMajorDiameter, ThreadedRodHeight, ThreadStep); // Threaded rod
//
} // End nut body minus threaded rod
//

The second one  has a rounded bezel.
- The OpenSCAD code generates a model with both the nut and the mount.
- The .zip files linked below reorient the mount so it is print-ready. (i.e. face down)
- Be sure to download the .zip files for both the desired mount and the nut.  The mount .zip files do not include the nut.

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=387869;image)

Code: [Select]
// Rotary encoder mount and nut created using thread library found at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31363

// Metric Screw Thread Library
// by Maximilian Karl <karlma@in.tum.de> (2012)
//
//
// only use module thread(P,D,h,step)
// with the parameters:
// P    - screw thread pitch
// D    - screw thread major diameter
// h    - screw thread height
// step - step size in degree
//

module screwthread_triangle(P) {
difference() {
translate([-sqrt(3)/3*P+sqrt(3)/2*P/8,0,0])
rotate([90,0,0])
cylinder(r=sqrt(3)/3*P,h=0.00001,$fn=3,center=true);

translate([0,-P/2,-P/2])
cube([P,P,P]);
}
}

module screwthread_onerotation(P,D_maj,step) {
H = sqrt(3)/2*P;
D_min = D_maj - 5*sqrt(3)/8*P;

for(i=[0:step:360-step])
hull()
for(j = [0,step])
rotate([0,0,(i+j)])
translate([D_maj/2,0,(i+j)/360*P])
screwthread_triangle(P);

translate([0,0,P/2])
cylinder(r=D_min/2,h=2*P,$fn=360/step,center=true);
}

module thread(P,D,h,step) {
for(i=[0:h/P])
translate([0,0,i*P])
screwthread_onerotation(P,D,step);
}
//
////////////////////////////////////////////
//
// Variables:
//
////////////////////////////////////////////
ThreadPitch = 1;          // Screw thread pitch
ThreadMajorDiameter = 49; // Screw thread major diameter
ThreadedRodHeight = 23.8; // Threaded rod height
ThreadStep = 2;           // Thread step size in degrees
PlateThick = 2.4;         // Mount plate/bezel thickness
Roundover = 2.2;          // Bezel roundover, must be less than PlateThick
BezelDia = 55;            // Bezel diameter
BezelCenterHole = 21;     // Bezel center hole
ScrewHoleBottom = 3.45;   // Bottom of screw hole diameter
ScrewHoleTop = 3.45;      // Top of screw hole diameter, for non-countersunk screws use same value as ScrewHoleBottom
ScrewDistance = 15;       // Distance from center of shaft to center of screw hole, usually 14 or 15
CenterCylinder = 40;      // Center cylinder diameter
NutDiameter = 64;         // Nut diameter (point-to-point)
NutThickness = 4;         // Nut thickness
WiggleRoom = 1.02;        // Scale multiplier for threaded rod X-axis and Y-axis that allows nut to turn easier
NutOffsetX = 70;          // X-axis offset distance of nut
//
// Number of fragments (polygon sides) used to render a full circle.
    $fn = 180; // Default = 180  Typical range = 6 - 360
    // 6 will render a circular hole as a hexagon, 8 will render a circular hole as an octagon.
    // Lower the number for faster rendering, raise the number for smoother rendering.
//
////////////////////////////////////////////
//
// Make the part:
//
////////////////////////////////////////////

// Mount
    // Bezel/mount plate minus screw holes and center hole
    difference() {

        minkowski() // Apply roundover to cylinder
        {
        translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight])
        cylinder(d=(BezelDia)-(Roundover*2),h=(PlateThick) - Roundover); // Bezel/mount plate body
        sphere(r=Roundover); // Roundover
        }

        translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight/2])
        cube([BezelDia + 20, BezelDia + 20, ThreadedRodHeight], center=true); // Trim bottom of bezel/mount plate body

        translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight + (PlateThick/2)])
        rotate ([0, 0, 0])
        translate ([ScrewDistance, 0, 0])
        cylinder (PlateThick + 0.01, d1=ScrewHoleBottom, d2=ScrewHoleTop,center=true); // Screw hole 1

        translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight + (PlateThick/2)])
        rotate ([0, 0, 120])
        translate ([ScrewDistance, 0, 0])
        cylinder (PlateThick + 0.01, d1=ScrewHoleBottom, d2=ScrewHoleTop,center=true); // Screw hole 2

        translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight + (PlateThick/2)])
        rotate ([0, 0, 240])
        translate ([ScrewDistance, 0, 0])
        cylinder (PlateThick + 0.01, d1=ScrewHoleBottom, d2=ScrewHoleTop,center=true); // Screw hole 3

        translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight + (PlateThick/2)])
        cylinder (PlateThick + 0.1, d=BezelCenterHole,center=true); // Center hole

    } // End bezel/mount plate minus screw holes and center hole
//
    // Threaded rod minus center cylinder and trim top
    difference() {
        translate ([0, 0, ThreadPitch/2])
        thread(ThreadPitch, ThreadMajorDiameter, ThreadedRodHeight, ThreadStep); // Threaded rod

        translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight/2])
        cylinder (ThreadedRodHeight + 20, d=CenterCylinder,center=true); // Center cylinder

        translate ([0, 0, (ThreadedRodHeight * 1.5) + 0.01])
        cube([ThreadMajorDiameter + 20, ThreadMajorDiameter + 20, ThreadedRodHeight], center=true); // Trim top

    } // End threaded rod minus center cylinder and trim top
//   
// Nut
difference() { // Nut body minus threaded rod
    hull() {  // Nut Body
    translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, NutThickness/2])
    rotate ([0, 0, 0])
    translate ([NutDiameter/2, 0, 0])
    cylinder (NutThickness, d = 0.01, center=true);

    translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, NutThickness/2])
    rotate ([0, 0, 60])
    translate ([NutDiameter/2, 0, 0])
    cylinder (NutThickness, d = 0.01, center=true);

    translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, NutThickness/2])
    rotate ([0, 0, 120])
    translate ([NutDiameter/2, 0, 0])
    cylinder (NutThickness, d = 0.01, center=true);

    translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, NutThickness/2])
    rotate ([0, 0, 180])
    translate ([NutDiameter/2, 0, 0])
    cylinder (NutThickness, d = 0.01, center=true);

    translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, NutThickness/2])
    rotate ([0, 0, 240])
    translate ([NutDiameter/2, 0, 0])
    cylinder (NutThickness, d = 0.01, center=true);

    translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, NutThickness/2])
    rotate ([0, 0, 300])
    translate ([NutDiameter/2, 0, 0])
    cylinder (NutThickness, d = 0.01, center=true);
    } // End nut body
//
    translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, - ThreadPitch])
    scale([WiggleRoom, WiggleRoom, 1])
    thread(ThreadPitch, ThreadMajorDiameter, ThreadedRodHeight, ThreadStep); // Threaded rod
//
} // End nut body minus threaded rod
//

Installation instructions:
1. Drill a 2"/50mm hole in your 3/4" thick (or less) control panel.

2. Fasten the mount to the CP using the nut.
- Keep in mind that it is very easy to cross-thread if the nut isn't kept level.
- Use the "turn the nut backward until you hear a click then turn it forward" trick to avoid cross-threading.

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=387891;image)

3. Fasten the encoder to the mount using M3-0.5 x 8mm screws.

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=387892;image)

4. Install the knob.
---------------------------------------------
Links to .ZIPped, ready-to-print .STL files made using the OpenSCAD code above:

    Chamfered mount - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=387887 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=387887)

    Nut - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=387888 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=387888)

    Roundover mount - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=387889 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=387889)

*** Be sure to download both the desired mount and the nut. (the mount .zip files do not include the nut) ***


Scott
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on June 06, 2021, 07:28:50 pm
Finally wrapped up the wiring on the Voron (hopefully).
Observations:

I flipped the main power supply so the mains voltage is toward the center.  If arranged like in the manual, a finger stuck through the holes in the skirting could touch 110v.

I don't like the Molex microfit connectors and would not use them again.  The plastic housings are ok, but for some reason neither the hotend or part cooling fan would work when testing with a battery.  Something was wrong with the connector on the fan side, so I redid it.  Second attempt didn't fare any better.  Not sure if I was breaking the wires on the crimp or what.  Switch to JST SYP connectors and had no issues.   Hoping it was just the tiny fan wires since everything else including the hotend is still using the Molex connectors.  It is a PITA to get the pins to slide into the housings when using silicone wire....like trying to push the pin with a wet noodle.

Per the wiring diagram power is supplied to the Raspberry Pi via GPIO pins.  There is a warning that this involves some risk, but you are "unlikely" to have a problem.  I hacked a charging cable and used the actual power input.  They should just add a USB C charging pigtail to the BOM.

After laying out the wire, I decided to go with all black and red wiring on the top side.  The black 4 conductor ribbon cable really shined here.  I had several runs of it, but it was easy to tell what was what with a multimeter.  Limit switches were wired NC.  Inductive sensor had one wire removed, so only 3 conductors on that one.  With the steppers, you only really need one conductor referenced then the rest of the ribbon can be placed in order.  Only downside was trying to push pins into Molex Microfit connectors with the super soft silicone wire.  The JST connectors on the PCB end weren't nearly as difficult.

I flipped the connectors on the LCD, but the wiring would have worked out a bit better if I had flipped them on the SKR board instead.

Haven't set up software or powered it up yet.  Not sure if firmware should have been set up before making all these connections, but that is a project for another day.


(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210606/3ce6b3530e8497004656374992126fcc.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210606/78d55caeeeb0920a971a918857eeefeb.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Raktageno on June 07, 2021, 09:46:01 am
I've gone back a few pages and I'm not seeing anything about it, so I feel safe to ask how you were able to mount those components on what appears to be the bottom of this? I'm not seeing obvious connections for some rail-mounting system, so I'm suspecting magnets. Thinking this could be an effective way to mount items inside an MDF cabinet.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on June 07, 2021, 09:55:22 am
Yeah mounting that power supply in an enclosed place like that makes me nervous, especially considering one of mine had a meltdown in the past.   I mean it should be fine but you never know.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on June 07, 2021, 11:09:05 am
I've gone back a few pages and I'm not seeing anything about it, so I feel safe to ask how you were able to mount those components on what appears to be the bottom of this? I'm not seeing obvious connections for some rail-mounting system, so I'm suspecting magnets. Thinking this could be an effective way to mount items inside an MDF cabinet.

The boards, PI, power supplies, etc. are all mounted to those two silver DIN rails.  And those DIN rails mount to the black 2020 aluminum extrusion rails that you can see at the bottom in the second photo.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Raktageno on June 07, 2021, 11:14:00 am
...are all mounted to those two silver DIN rails.

Thanks for the info. Apologies if there is a better place to ask this. How are the components (PCBs etc.) attached to the DIN rail?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on June 07, 2021, 11:55:43 am
...are all mounted to those two silver DIN rails.

Thanks for the info. Apologies if there is a better place to ask this. How are the components (PCBs etc.) attached to the DIN rail?

It uses spring loaded clips.  If you push the item to one side to compress the spring, the opposite side of the clip is given enough clearance to be lifted off the rail.
The clip on the solid state relay is metal and was purchased.  The clips for the rest of the items were 3D printed. 
The rails I received were kind of thin, so I had to add a piece of duct tape so the clips fit tight enough to prevent sliding.

Here is a youtube video that came up in my feed recently, but I haven't watched it.  Looks like it provides the info you are looking for:
https://youtu.be/x_K3h05tQXc

Gil, how is your build going? (or how did it go if already completed)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on June 07, 2021, 12:13:58 pm
Gil, how is your build going? (or how did it go if already completed)

I got all the parts now I've lost interest in building it.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on June 13, 2021, 07:19:01 pm
Installed software on the Voron today.  It wasn't that bad, but I was annoyed by having to install and learn a bunch of tools that weren't already in my wheelhouse.  If you are already familiar with Pi and networking tools to manipulate files on the Pi then it will go very quickly.

I completed all the various calibrations and tunings without incident until the last friggin' one.  All that was left to do was calculate e-steps, probably the easiest thing.  Extruder makes a grinding noise, but does not move filament.  Turning the big gear with my finger moves filament.  Probably something stupid like the grub screw on the motor....

Done for today.  Next time it should be laying down plastic.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Malenko on June 13, 2021, 07:41:22 pm
Gil, how is your build going? (or how did it go if already completed)

I got all the parts now I've lost interest in building it.

go ahead and send them to me, I'll build it :)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on June 13, 2021, 09:02:02 pm
Installed software on the Voron today.  It wasn't that bad, but I was annoyed by having to install and learn a bunch of tools that weren't already in my wheelhouse.  If you are already familiar with Pi and networking tools to manipulate files on the Pi then it will go very quickly.

I completed all the various calibrations and tunings without incident until the last friggin' one.  All that was left to do was calculate e-steps, probably the easiest thing.  Extruder makes a grinding noise, but does not move filament.  Turning the big gear with my finger moves filament.  Probably something stupid like the grub screw on the motor....

Done for today.  Next time it should be laying down plastic.
Nice! I saw my friend’s Voron in person yesterday - it’s an impressive machine


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on June 18, 2021, 09:23:49 pm
Got the Voron far enough along to melt some plastic.
The problem with the extruder turned out to be the wiring.  I had the wiring wrong on the extruder end, then after correcting it still didn't work because one of the wires had broken at the molex microfit crimp.  Got that fixed and it worked, but filament moved in the wrong direction.  Reversing in printer.cfg didn't work, so I had to rewire yet again.  Same thing happened to Nero3dp on his most recent build, so it wasn't just me. 

It works now except that it doesn't save my z offset.  I will work on that tomorrow.  First print was crap because I had to adjust the z offset on the fly, so I cranked it up to 200% speed.  It was already at a fast draft of 120mm/sec so I guess it was running at 240mm/sec.   Cube looks horrible, but seems dimensionally accurate. I will install the sides and tune tomorrow.

With Mainsail and Klipper, the LCD is kind of pointless.  It displays temps, but the navigation knob doesn't do anything and the button only functions as an emergency stop.  You cannot tune anything on the fly with it.  Everything needs to be done via the web interface.   With Octoprint the LCD would have some functionality.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210619/ae7b40bbdc69f96fe1e2296a8574eeb9.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on June 19, 2021, 03:09:03 pm
Finished building the Voron completely with the exception of the interior exhaust grill which I thought I printed, but can't seem to find.
Did some more calibration and setup.

Clicked the update button on Klipper and now nothing works.  :banghead:
I believe I have to redo the firmware for the SKR boards which means I have to move the machine (which is harder now that the plexi is installed), remove the bottom panel, & remove the SD cards from them.

Dealing with crap like this is what I was hoping to avoid by following someone else's plans.  :angry:


EDIT: and now one of the Z stepper motors seems to have taken a dump.  Odd that it would coincide with the software thing, but I swapped leads on the stepper motors around and they all work fine on any output except this one. This is a horrible hobby.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on June 19, 2021, 06:01:26 pm
Meh.  Redid the firmware on the SKR boards and they seem to work as before.
Stepper motor turned out to be a wire that broke at the crimp.  Seems to be a theme with me.
Back on track and half a day behind where I wanted to be.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on June 20, 2021, 05:06:22 pm
Voron build is now 100% complete. (Anycubic Mega for scale).  Currently printing a ringing tower to tune input shaper.  Not sure what kind of effect sitting on a wobbly plastic table has, but I can always redo it.  I will build a base cabinet.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210620/0a16b9fe71091ed2e7966e594f474a1c.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on June 29, 2021, 03:15:50 pm
...(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210629/e3213c21b3b73e69044df468a0c9d6d3.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on June 29, 2021, 07:05:02 pm
But what were layer lines?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on June 29, 2021, 07:08:33 pm
...so this happened.  There didn't seem to be any clearance issues when calibrating or doing test prints.  The only thing I can speculate is that this side tweaked from me pushing the ptfe tube back into the toolhead and made the screw heads angle out. The printer self leveling would auto-correct for any height problems.  The clearance is only as much as the weatherstripping is thick.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210629/db5023fee0babad0f2aa97741f2815e8.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on June 29, 2021, 07:15:17 pm
But what were layer lines?
Huh?  It's a low res pic.  The layer lines are pretty smooth, but are also camouflaged by some vertical artifacts going on.  Not sure if the belts need retightened already or if it has something to do with seeing through the clear petg.

I bought an accelerometer to tune for resonances, but got tired of working on the thing and having never printed anything on it.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on June 30, 2021, 12:21:47 am
Your Voron looks great, dude!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on June 30, 2021, 07:46:18 am
First large format print complete (clear petg).  Not as oem looking as the design in my head, but it got done.  I did concentric infill at just under 100% hoping it would come out clearer.  It isn't clear, but it's solid as a rock.  Someday I'll graduate from Tinkercad to Fusion.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210630/19894284fb9fcc0d8c42b703838ed878.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210630/6a3530be53bbbf1410f4e0f37249bc9b.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on June 30, 2021, 07:49:44 am
But what were layer lines?
Huh?  It's a low res pic.  The layer lines are pretty smooth, but are also camouflaged by some vertical artifacts going on.  Not sure if the belts need retightened already or if it has something to do with seeing through the clear petg.

I bought an accelerometer to tune for resonances, but got tired of working on the thing and having never printed anything on it.

I was just trying to say in a clever way it looks great.

should of just said it looks great. lol

Also reminds me, need to reload the wine rack with some bottles of barefoot.
best cheap wine i've had.
and i've tried most because cheap wine is all i buy.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on July 01, 2021, 02:08:25 am
First large format print complete (clear petg).  Not as oem looking as the design in my head, but it got done.  I did concentric infill at just under 100% hoping it would come out clearer.  It isn't clear, but it's solid as a rock.  Someday I'll graduate from Tinkercad to Fusion.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210630/19894284fb9fcc0d8c42b703838ed878.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210630/6a3530be53bbbf1410f4e0f37249bc9b.jpg)

So my understanding is the best you are going to get out of clear filament is sort of opaque frosted and the way you do that is with a lot of sanding and polishing.   
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on July 02, 2021, 08:39:57 am
I was putting away some spools of filament this morning and thought I would share my storage method.

   It requires a vacuum sealer.  11" rolls for the vacuum sealer are just large enough for a 1kg filament spool to squeeze into.  The trick is to make the bag extra long so that instead of making a new bag every time the filament is stored, you can just trim off the end and reseal the same bag.

   Toss a dessicant packet in and vacuum seal.  The vacuum is strong enough to deform the spool, so hit the seal button just before the spool is pulled against the vacuum sealer.

From there I put the spool back in the original box it came in, which is much easier to stack or place upright on a shelf.


(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210702/f250c7609bdef83a2f00ae54bcde06bd.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210702/64728759e35baf7e3bbc816084553ab9.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on July 02, 2021, 02:41:10 pm
Nice.   ;D

Turns out that most filament spools *just barely* fit into a 1 gallon ziplock bag if you turn the bag diagonal so the top corners of the bag align with the edges of the spool.

A small (2" diameter) analog hygrometer (humidity meter) like this one (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DEN4UYG/) is an easy way to see how well your desiccant is -- or isn't -- working.
- It fits inside the hub of most spools.

(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51mKTkrQpkL._AC_.jpg)

For desiccant, I like to use two of these (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BL79JDK) small (2" x 1" x 1/2") 10 gram aluminum canisters per spool.
*** Avoid the old, toxic Cobalt Chloride canisters with blue beads. ***
- They fit inside the hub of most spools.
- When the beads turn from orange to dark green, put the canister in the oven for 2 hours @ 250 degrees. (F)
- The only downside is that the top and bottom halves of the canister are not solidly connected.
-- You can easily mod them by drilling out the corner vent holes and using 0.020" lock wire/safety wire.
- The 40 gram versions are more sturdy but are overkill.


Scott
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: opt2not on July 02, 2021, 07:20:53 pm
First large format print complete (clear petg).  Not as oem looking as the design in my head, but it got done.  I did concentric infill at just under 100% hoping it would come out clearer.  It isn't clear, but it's solid as a rock.  Someday I'll graduate from Tinkercad to Fusion.
I respect Wine-in-a-box ready to go in the fridge.   :cheers:  :lol
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on July 09, 2021, 05:08:04 pm
So, I picked up one of these because i had printed so much stuff that used this type of hardware.
(https://shop.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_19958.jpg)

thought it was pretty sweet for a few months.
until i knocked it off the bench.  :banghead:

the little drawers went everywhere scattering nuts and bolts and washers everywhere plus it cracked.

does anyone else keep an assortment of hardware for assembling projects?
what do you store them in?

I'm thinking now a bunch of these might work for me.
(https://shop.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/9/3/93928_W3.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Vigo on July 09, 2021, 06:13:08 pm
Been there! Those shelfs go down with a huge mess. :banghead:


I'm not about to suggest my small parts solution is great, but I have been working on this same problem. The issue I have is I bought so many of those tiny amazon boxes with assorted lengths of M screws, I would be wasting a lot of plano cases to keep them compartmentalized, so I just got a small tote to hold all my metric stuff and I keep them in their Amazon boxes.


(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/716jPa3-VcL._SL1500_.jpg)


(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/611BxxrmSLS._AC_SL1500_.jpg)

Other things like extruder parts, nozzles, springs, etc, I keep in those metric zip baggies and label the bag. I have a ton of them that I use for board game organization. The only thing left for me to do is print some partitions in the tote to separate out the baggies.

(https://i.etsystatic.com/11602341/r/il/45b057/1566528019/il_794xN.1566528019_f4os.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on July 10, 2021, 11:30:34 am
nice vigo.
i bought a few empty boxes with side locks about the same size as the amazon boxes of parts.

thanks.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on July 10, 2021, 12:04:05 pm
does anyone else keep an assortment of hardware for assembling projects?
what do you store them in?
I use a variety of storage systems.

- A wall-mounted parts bin similar to this one from one of the big-box hardware stores.
(https://mobileimages.lowes.com/productimages/438472bb-2ad6-4066-aa85-0d0836f8eb53/15277377.jpg?size=xl)

- A bunch of the Harbor Freight 24 compartment (https://www.harborfreight.com/tool-storage-organization/parts-storage/24-divider-storage-container-94458.html) tackleboxes that are OK for medium parts, but the divider system is . . . less than stellar . . . for very small parts.
(https://shop.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/265x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/9/4/94458_W3.jpg)

- For small parts like connector pins that would be a total pain to sort through, consider the Harbor Freight 25 box storage system (https://www.harborfreight.com/tool-storage-organization/parts-storage/24-container-storage-box-90243.html).  The 25 small boxes have snap-lock lids.
(https://shop.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/265x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/9/0/90243_I.jpg)

I'm thinking now a bunch of these might work for me.
Those are better for keeping small parts separate than the 24 compartment one, but are a bit more expensive and not as flexible.  YMMV.


Scott
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on July 10, 2021, 03:01:38 pm
I started accumulating extra nozzles, heatbreaks, etc and wanted a toolbox to keep it all in.

I ended up getting a very small Plano tacklebox with removable clear trays.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OES590/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OES590/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
It's ok, but anything too big to fit in a tray ends up in the big top compartment.  A bigger one might work out better.
It is smaller than it looks in the pictures.

The one thing that I have been happy with was this plastic storage box with individual compartment lids:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B089M45T8N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B089M45T8N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
You can get them cheaper from China if you are willing to wait for delivery.

For the small screws used in building stuff, I'm with Vigo.  Just buy the assortment packs that come with a case.
When building the Voron I ordered exactly what was needed from Bolt Depot, but I would not do it that way again.
You are much better off buying cheap assorted sets.  Attaching plastic to aluminum does not require grade 8 bolts.

EDIT: I also have 3 of these that random leftover bolts and screws go into.  It feels like more work than you would think to move them on top the workbench, unclip both sides, fold down the front, & pull out the tray to get at the parts.
https://www.harborfreight.com/multi-compartment-utility-box-40528.html (https://www.harborfreight.com/multi-compartment-utility-box-40528.html)

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on July 12, 2021, 07:56:26 am
that thing from harbor freight looks spiffy.
i'll have to give mine a second look.
don't think i've ever seen one of those.

as for the multiple drawers cabinet, I have no where to mount them right now unless i hang some wood from the joists in my basement.
so i think i'm going to stick with plastic cases.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on July 12, 2021, 10:13:29 am
Anyone have a system for remote access/monitoring that they would like to share?
I read somewhere that an alarming number of Octoprint installations are open to someone else on the internet accessing them.

I am using Mainsail/Klipper on the Voron, but it is only accessible via  local network.
I set up an old security camera (on a guest network) to monitor prints, but cannot do anything if there is a problem.
I considered using a smart plug that could be turned off remotely, but in some situations it would be better to pause the print.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Vigo on July 13, 2021, 05:19:10 am
I will be taking round 2 at setting mine up soon. I put in a pi and a touchscreen in on my printer as part of the control panel. My first attempt at putting octoprint on it failed, then I lost interest to keep pushing it.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on July 13, 2021, 02:26:59 pm
I am envious of that power switch on the front (instead of the center of the back like the Voron). 
Keep us updated on Octoprint.  It annoys me that Klipper doesn't use the click wheel for anything and only uses the button as an emergency stop.
I may give octoprint a shot.

My latest idea for remote pause is to wire something as a filament runout sensor. 
The old security camera I'm using can pan, so I could even use it to hit the switch.  :lol
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on July 26, 2021, 10:08:51 am
I finally started assembling my Voron.  It started with major frustration because I needed the 1mm shim washers and could not find that order anywhere.  I wasted 2 hours looking Saturday afternoon and gave up.  Then Sun morning decided I would clean up the side room that had tons of junk stacked around as one last chance.  I cleaned and stacked all my stuff on the shelving on one side and then told my wife it was her turn to clean up her sewing table area that looked like a tornado of material hit it.  Well of course she finds the box with my parts buried on her table but accuses me of putting it there.  I was like the last spot I had that box was on my pinball machine and you cleaned that off.  Its a major argument every time I can't find something...lol.  I'm like just don't move my stuff ask me to move it and then I won't have that variable in my head.

Then I started with the Z drive assemblies.  First off the gear would not fit onto the motor shaft the way they showed in the manual.  I could put it on with the fat side first but then it would stop near the end like it was tapered.  It wasn't until I tried all 4 gears that I found 1 of the 4 would freely fit all the way up and down the shaft so I had to use a drill to get the other 3 to fit.  I figure when they anodized the parts black it messed up the fit.  Then I got to the motor brackets and could not find the parts anywhere.  The part shown in the manual and the Nero video both showed a complete circle part attaching to the motor.  I finally found another video where the guy talked about the issues in the manual and he showed how they had changed the part so that it only has 3 screws and part of the circle is cut away.

I am impressed with the quality of the design so far.  The way they have the arm you swing in to tension the belt is pretty awesome.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on July 26, 2021, 10:45:42 pm
Weird about the z motor brackets.  I must have had the old stl files because my parts matched the manual.  I did go back and download newer stl files when the limit switches didn't fit right and I found a change submitted that referred to the issue.

One issue that I may be able to steer you right on.  When you attach the motors to the A/B drives on the gantry, rotate them so the wiring exits face each other.  I had the wires coming out the back, but then there was so little clearance that the wiring was going to rub against the back panel as the gantry moves up and down.  It wasn't a huge deal, but I did have to unscrew and rotate them in place with the belts already ran.


Enjoy.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on August 11, 2021, 10:02:27 pm
Started throwing a Voron 1.8 together from leftover parts and the extrusion I had cut while waiting on the 2.4 frame.  Had to use 2040 for some parts of the frame.  Might have to swap in two more pieces to free up 2020 for the bed.  This will start out as a test rig to experiment without screwing up the 2.4.  I spent money on rails and some 40mm bolts, but that is about it so far. Gonna run the crappy belts I already have for now.  Nickle and diming my way to a z axis.

Got some carbon fiber polycarbonate on the way.  Looking forward to testing its strength.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210812/70802e78bf3ae3fd3448bec04bedaf81.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on August 15, 2021, 03:17:48 pm
Polycarbonate I ordered wasn't carbon fiber.  I was actually kinda relieved as this meant I didn't have to swap hotends for fear of scratching up the copper heatbreak of the dragon.

Anyways, if you've done ABS, have no fear of polycarbonate (at least Polymax by polymaker).  Spool went straight from the package to a filament drier feeding the printer. Printed on PEI with a coat of aquanet.  Hotend at 270, bed at 110, no fan.  Chamber stays around 50.  Very, very slight warping.  Less warping than the same part printed in ABS. Then I cleaned the PEI and recoated with Magigoo PC.  No warping at all.  Been printing parts for two days.  The only thing that failed was a small part where my 15 second minimum layer time wasn't enough to let the layers solidify.  Reprinted with one small part on each corner of the bed and they turned out proper.

So if you can do those temps, give PC a try.  Stronger and more heat resistant than ABS, but no more hassle IMO as long as it is kept dry.  If it does sit around soaking up moisture, it will need baked for 8 hours per the instructions.  Mine is going right back into a vacuum bag when I run out if things to print.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210815/402a8ba658b5ef1288ba8bb761c53447.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Drnick on August 25, 2021, 04:38:46 am
Wife wants me to get a 3D printer, Wants to print off a bunch of Disney related stuffs.  What is the current recommendation for less then £200 in the UK?   Needs to be simple to setup, simple to use, and I think most of the stuff she wants to print is in the 3 to 4 inch range.  Was looking at the Creality Ender 3 Pro with tempered glass.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Vocalitus on August 25, 2021, 05:24:10 am
Ender 3 Pro is a good deal.

I hope the bed stick longer than 5 prints though before bed warping (even on glass).
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on August 25, 2021, 07:14:50 am
I bought an Anycubic Mega S thinking that the Prusa knockoff design would be superior to the Ender.  Upgrades like a different print surface were a PITA to find in the correct size though.  The extruder sucks, but I'd have to switch to custom firmware to upgrade it.  I wish I'd just bought an Ender because they have become the standard.  You will never not be able to get a replacement part or have a problem that someone hasn't already posted the solution to.  I don't see a reason to buy anything else in that price range.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on August 25, 2021, 09:34:23 am
If anyone out there is considering Klipper and debating Mainsail vs Fluidd for the pi:

Everything I found when searching the subject said they were pretty much the same and decide for yourself, so I went with Mainsail.
Added a pi cam to my test build.  It was fairly plug and play, but the results were less like video and more like a picture updated every so often.
It wasn't anywhere near the 15fps set.  Later, an update killed something in my Mainsail install and I could no longer connect, so I gave Fluidd a try.

They are extremely similar in appearance and function, but the pi cam works better in Fluidd and the control panel panes can be rearranged. 
It also reports information on the pi and warns when the pi is being throttled.
At this point in time, Fluidd is superior IMO.  I like it well enough that this evening's project is to switch the 2.4 over to Fluidd.

I also planned to use the test rig to experiment with physical buttons in Klipper.  There wasn't much experimenting as it turned out to be stupid easy.
It's odd that I couldn't find many online tutorials covering it and those that do exist complicate it by using pins on the pi or a secondary mcu.
A few lines in the config file is all it takes to use buttons wired to the extra endstop pins on the SKR board to send any gcode command or macro. 
I only have 2 inputs available on the 1.8, but have 9 on the 2.4 since it has 2 boards.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on August 25, 2021, 10:12:48 pm
Picked up a used Logitech C525 for $15.  Only 720p but it has autofocus.  Mounting to 20x20 extrusion turned out to be stupid easy.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210826/8f827bc27989082d0340f276a67199d4.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210826/7cc3530ff21780d88aa29c66d33a59f2.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on November 25, 2021, 08:02:05 am
if anyone is interested.

anycubic photon s resin printer is $99 shipped right now.

https://www.anycubic.com/collections/anycubic-photon-3d-printers/products/anycubic-photon-s?gclid=Cj0KCQiAhf2MBhDNARIsAKXU5GTj6TyzuXlpK6WJ62fB6LYUAO0A-ntemZir3DyzDwF9KWfQTeXvaswaApe0EALw_wcB

not mono or that big, but i ordered one for my kid.
he keeps bugging me to make cartridge stands for his n64 on mine so i figure this is a good time to introduce him to 3d printing so he can make his own.
he's 15 so i think he's old enough.

oh, and happy turkey day.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on January 24, 2022, 09:46:23 am
Did a fair amount of tinkering with the printers last week.  Moved them to the basement & vented the V2.4 to the exterior of the house.
Added lights & a cheap Arducam to the 1.8.  Very happy with both.
Made a double sided spring steel bed with PEI on one side and Garolite(for vinyl) on the other.
Spent a couple hours brute forcing the correct syntax to get chamber temps displayed on the LCD.  :-[

In previous testing, chamber temps only got up to 50°C.  When actually printing, they kept climbing and climbing.  Eventually it touched 70°, but averages closer to 66°.
I am glad it didn't get any hotter.  I originally wanted to build a 100° chamber, but after digging into the research realized that the plastic races in the linear rail guides are only rated to 80°.
I found that preheating to 55-60° with a heat gun gets the chamber temp up a lot faster than waiting on the bed to heat it.  Also the aluminum extrusions act as a heatsink, so any future custom printer is going to have an interior frame completely insulated from the outside world.

Also dealt with chamber temps on the V2, as the exhaust fan was pulling air out.  I came to the conclusion that it is better off sealed with some type of fume mitigation outside of the printer.
Not sure when I'll fiddle with that.

Did my first tests with vinyl filament using a small $10 roll.  Manufacturer recommended 260° max, but I had to go to 270° to get good layer adhesion.
The printer also shut off part way into the first print because the hotend wasn't heating as expected.  Not sure if this was caused by the enclosure temperature, or the high extruder temperature.
I ran a PID tune at 265° with the enclosure heated and the next print went fine.  The vinyl warped without a brim (on garolite, 110°).  With a brim it appeared to work perfectly while printing except for one corner.  The part seems to have warped after it was removed from the bed though.  I left it alone for a half hour after printing, but I guess that wasn't enough.  The chamber actually cools pretty slowly, which is good.
Next time I will try PVA glue on the garolite.  When I buy a big roll of vinyl it will be a copolymer, so that might be a lot less prone to warping.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Mike A on January 24, 2022, 09:54:05 am
Do those ---smurfing--- printers ever work?

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on January 24, 2022, 10:19:18 am
Do those ---smurfing--- printers ever work?

 :lol

The Voron 2.4 has actually not had any issues other than stinking up the house.

This was the first thing printed on the 1.8.  It would probably be reliable, but will be torn apart and reconfigured anyway because it is a test rig.

The tool is the hobby.  (and it's a horrible hobby)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: bobbyb13 on January 24, 2022, 12:57:30 pm
I realize that you gents are early adopters of this stuff and it is still evolving, but given tech pace these days one would assume it would be farther along in ease of setup/use/reliability.

It all kind of reminds me of my ex-wife.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on January 24, 2022, 01:52:09 pm
I realize that you gents are early adopters of this stuff and it is still evolving, but given tech pace these days one would assume it would be farther along in ease of setup/use/reliability.

It all kind of reminds me of my ex-wife.
The tech isn't that new.  The reason it exploded in recent years is that the patent for the process expired.  The heated chamber patent expired just recently.

What holds it back most IMO is the filaments.  They are extruded from standard industrial pellets meant for injection molding. Those plastics were originally formulated to shrink when cooling so they would pop out of the injection molds.  This is why plastics other than PLA warp so badly when different parts of the object cool at different rates.

PLA doesnt warp, but will deform in a hot car and degrades if placed in water.

I saw a story about BASF getting into filament a while back.  I am hoping they or some similar company formulate new types of plastic from the ground up.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: bobbyb13 on January 24, 2022, 11:43:51 pm
It's all very cool stuff.

I would be an absolute menace if I had space, time and $$ for one.
 :)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: RandyT on January 26, 2022, 01:22:41 pm
I realize that you gents are early adopters of this stuff and it is still evolving, but given tech pace these days one would assume it would be farther along in ease of setup/use/reliability.

The tech is about as evolved as it's ever going to get.  It's a low tech basis of operation, with a high tech layer applied over the top.  In other words, it's a glue gun (73 year old tech) with automation to mostly provide fine control of position and extrusion rates.

The problem with the whole process is not the automation parts, as much as it is with the glue gun portion.  Melting and extruding various different types of plastics, each with their own properties, even varying within plastic types, creates an ever changing target which requires skill and experience to hit with any sort of regularity.

The best you can hope to do without jumping in with both feet, is to try to spend your way into the hobby with expensive machines and using only filaments approved and sold by the machine's vendor.  Even that is fraught with potential issues related to head clogging and parts failure, which owners usually have to address themselves.

SLA is the future of 3D printing.  Resins are constantly evolving and eventually we may see very strong parts with fast cure times and simple cleanup.  Until then, it just is what it is.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on February 01, 2022, 04:27:42 pm
Still planning to build a Voron, but a much bigger purchase took the funds I had set aside for it. I still wanted a upgraded experience, so I took the plunge and ordered a Prusa MK3S+ kit. I’ll use that to print my Voron parts. I’ve had great fun with the Anet, but I’ve taken it as far as it can go.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on February 02, 2022, 06:18:20 am
Do those ---smurfing--- printers ever work?

 

The Voron 2.4 has actually not had any issues other than stinking up the house.


I spoke too soon.  The silicone wire for the proximity sensor broke internally in the middle, presumably from being rolled and unrolled inside the drag chain so many times.  This sent the nozzle crashing into the bed several random times and a few more times while diagnosing. Wasted over half a day figuring out the problem and running new wires.

 The sensor is normally closed and opens when triggered which should have prevented a crash. I dunno.

It never F-ing ends.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on February 02, 2022, 06:40:58 am
Still planning to build a Voron, but a much bigger purchase took the funds I had set aside for it. I still wanted a upgraded experience, so I took the plunge and ordered a Prusa MK3S+ kit. I’ll use that to print my Voron parts. I’ve had great fun with the Anet, but I’ve taken it as far as it can go.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The good thing with Prusa is that a lot of the guesswork with materials is removed.

Honestly if I already had a Prusa, I would invest in the multi material attachment instead of building a Voron.  With an enclosure and dissolvable support material, it could print just about anything.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on February 02, 2022, 10:45:00 am
Still planning to build a Voron, but a much bigger purchase took the funds I had set aside for it. I still wanted a upgraded experience, so I took the plunge and ordered a Prusa MK3S+ kit. I’ll use that to print my Voron parts. I’ve had great fun with the Anet, but I’ve taken it as far as it can go.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The good thing with Prusa is that a lot of the guesswork with materials is removed.

Honestly if I already had a Prusa, I would invest in the multi material attachment instead of building a Voron.  With an enclosure and dissolvable support material, it could print just about anything.
True. I just think the Voron looks cool, looks fun to build, plus I like the increased build size.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on February 17, 2022, 05:17:07 pm
Still planning to build a Voron, but a much bigger purchase took the funds I had set aside for it. I still wanted a upgraded experience, so I took the plunge and ordered a Prusa MK3S+ kit. I’ll use that to print my Voron parts. I’ve had great fun with the Anet, but I’ve taken it as far as it can go.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The good thing with Prusa is that a lot of the guesswork with materials is removed.

Honestly if I already had a Prusa, I would invest in the multi material attachment instead of building a Voron.  With an enclosure and dissolvable support material, it could print just about anything.

been thinking about a duel extruder printer with dissolvable supports.
IDEX type looks the best to me.
the Elegoo  Neptune 2D is about $240 on amazon but it's you standard small 200x200 build plate.


Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on February 17, 2022, 05:27:30 pm
ok. 3d printer status report.

mini-delta - over temp errors. fixed. was a botched octoprint update. i'm printing ABS again without issues and it looks fantastic.

Chiron - was having extrusion issues, replaced extruder...still have issues and getting clogs. checked heat block, it's not as hot as the printer reads. in fact it's only giving me 200 and some change in C when it should of been 230C.

soo i'm replacing the thermister.

on deck:

xyz Jr. needs a new PTFE connector.
anycubic photon - new screen. had it for 3 days. 3 days and dropped the damn build plate into the vat damaging the fep and the screen while taking it off.   :banghead:
other monoprice mini - new extruder and e-step calibration.


Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: bobbyb13 on February 20, 2022, 12:32:20 am
Damn.

You gents all rate high in my book for having the fortitude to keep at it long enough to sort out all those details.

Holy crap.

I avoid this thread (and then can't help myself!) because I need another hobby like I need bursitis.

And I can't resist the urge to look up a Prusa now either.

Dammit
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on February 20, 2022, 07:48:53 pm
Honestly, Bobby, I’ve printed a lot of items that have helped out in this hobby.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: bobbyb13 on February 20, 2022, 09:27:53 pm
Honestly, Bobby, I’ve printed a lot of items that have helped out in this hobby.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can imagine!
An entire discipline of its own.
Being able to recreate things that nobody has made in decades could be invaluable.

I can already think of stuff I would make if I was able.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on February 21, 2022, 05:20:17 pm
Dear diary...........

so, mini delta was printing like a champ.
until the ptfe connector on the stock extruder broke.
I have a replacement because this happens with these printers. just need to put it in.

spent more time than i cared to tracking down just what is wrong with my chiron.
long story short, i attached the thermistor directly to the motherboard bypassing the harness and i got proper temps.

I've also ordered 22awg silicon wire to create a new harness.
couple of people have already done it on youtube so i'll just follow their guide.
and currently printing up a new braket for a V6 hotend and will also be re-creating the junction box for all the stuff in the hotend since it is an annoying design.
will post pics when it's done.

my xyz junior is next. i learned octoprint is available for android so my kids have old firetab 7's and i have some OTG cables so i'm going to play with that.

oh and since i expect my chiron to be down a little while i ordered an anycubic Vyper.
it has good reviews.
true auto leveling.
magnetic bed.
dual gear extruder
silent steppers
volcano hotend.

it's basically got all the upgrades i wanted to put into my chiron but didn't because it still worked and i don't fix things that aren't broken.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on February 21, 2022, 08:32:10 pm
ok. 3d printer status report.

mini-delta - over temp errors. fixed. was a botched octoprint update. i'm printing ABS again without issues and it looks fantastic.

Chiron - was having extrusion issues, replaced extruder...still have issues and getting clogs. checked heat block, it's not as hot as the printer reads. in fact it's only giving me 200 and some change in C when it should of been 230C.

soo i'm replacing the thermister.

on deck:

xyz Jr. needs a new PTFE connector.
anycubic photon - new screen. had it for 3 days. 3 days and dropped the damn build plate into the vat damaging the fep and the screen while taking it off.   :banghead:
other monoprice mini - new extruder and e-step calibration.

 :cheers:

Mine were printing fine, so I had to change something.  I built this supposedly fast Voron 2.4, but still print at 60mm/s so things look nice.
Swapped to a high flow dragon hotend and .6 nozzle as a way of working toward faster print times.  I am still in the testing for best slicer settings stage.
The eventual plan is to have it dialed in for one brand of ASA and then print almost exclusively in that.

I bought a cheap beat-up jon boat and hope to print a bunch of stuff out of ASA for it; rod holders, drink holder, battery panel, fish finder mount.
Can't find the right size grease bearing cap for the trailer, so will be giving that a go in ABS or Tough Poly.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on February 22, 2022, 01:06:51 pm


 :cheers:

Mine were printing fine, so I had to change something.  I built this supposedly fast Voron 2.4, but still print at 60mm/s so things look nice.
Swapped to a high flow dragon hotend and .6 nozzle as a way of working toward faster print times.  I am still in the testing for best slicer settings stage.
The eventual plan is to have it dialed in for one brand of ASA and then print almost exclusively in that.

I bought a cheap beat-up jon boat and hope to print a bunch of stuff out of ASA for it; rod holders, drink holder, battery panel, fish finder mount.
Can't find the right size grease bearing cap for the trailer, so will be giving that a go in ABS or Tough Poly.

I thought voron could print something like 100mm/s with high quality because of direct drive and stiffness?


I was actually researching the dragon and if it was worth the $$4 compared to a v6 with volcano and found this.

https://3dprintbeginner.com/dragon-hotend-vs-copperhead-v6/#:~:text=As%20you%20can%20see%20from,40mm%20fan%20with%20higher%20airflow.

I have a new V6 hotend for a printer project i never did wired for 12v (chiron is 24) but i also have plenty of spare heaters along with volcano heat blocks so i'm thinking i'll go that route then purchase the copper heatbreak.
just need to make sure my cooling is adequate for the heatsink.


Is ASA easier to print than ABS?
i think you are the first person i've seen mention it online.




Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on February 22, 2022, 04:46:05 pm
I was actually researching the dragon and if it was worth the $$4 compared to a v6 with volcano and found this.

https://3dprintbeginner.com/dragon-hotend-vs-copperhead-v6/#:~:text=As%20you%20can%20see%20from,40mm%20fan%20with%20higher%20airflow.

I have a new V6 hotend for a printer project i never did wired for 12v (chiron is 24) but i also have plenty of spare heaters along with volcano heat blocks so i'm thinking i'll go that route then purchase the copper heatbreak.
just need to make sure my cooling is adequate for the heatsink.


Is ASA easier to print than ABS?
i think you are the first person i've seen mention it online.

I actually did have problems with the dragon high flow overheating and have to run it without a silicone sock on the heater block.  So my experience concurs with the article.
I did not have any such problem with the standard dragon.  The regular dragon probably could have handled the .6 nozzle.  I bought the high flow a while back wanting to try huge nozzles and fast speeds someday.

My Voron 1.8 has a Trianglelabs V6 knockoff with an E3D titanium heatbreak.  I notice no difference in print quality between it and the dragon.  IMO the only advantage is ease of nozzle removal since it doesn't spin like a V6.  FYI the titanium heatbreak sucks for PLA, but works great for everything else.  PLA sticks to it when it retracts and causes issues, especially rubbery PLA+.  Another note on the Dragon: I'm afraid to run any abrasive filaments through it because the heatbreak isn't easily replaceable like the V6.  I assume the filaments would also scratch up copper much faster than titanium.

I'm still on my first roll of ASA (white Overture).  So far it prints identical to ABS.  It doesn't smell quite as bad, but supposed to be just as bad to breathe.  I bought it because I had some bathroom and outdoor projects.  I had previously made some indoor plant watering parts from PLA and they became brittle and disintegrated after a year submerged.  ASA is more UV resistant than ABS, although I found out later that black ABS is pretty much UV resistant due to the black pigment absorbing all the UV light before it penetrates very far. 
 
This material comparison from Polymaker is interesting to look at: https://us.polymaker.com/pages/material-comparison (https://us.polymaker.com/pages/material-comparison)
(It's really just rating each category on a 1-5 scale, but the pictures are a neat way of comparing materials)

I like pursuing new materials.  Whenever you get one figured out, there is a more difficult one to try.  I had hoped to arrive at some perfect hardcore material, but have come to realize that every filament has some tradeoff.  I thought Nylon was my grail, but look on the Polymaker charts at how much the characteristics change depending on humidity.  Reinforce nylon and it gets more brittle to the point that the benefits of nylon are lost.  The glass or carbon fiber has to fit through the nozzle, so it's more like reinforcing concrete with loose nuts and bolts than rebar.  It's a shame because my insulated Voron 1.8 prints nylon perfectly.  I will probably end up using Nylon only for sleeve bearings and maybe RC car bumpers someday.   

So I am settling on ASA for most things because:
I print mostly brackets and tools which don't require fine detail and bridging of PLA.  I also want them to last.
It has the same characteristics as ABS with added benefits of UV and weather resistance.
It isn't going to melt if left in a hot car or disintegrate if left in contact with water like PLA will.
I think I have the bridging settings in Cura pretty dialed in for it (45% fan on bridges only, skin overlap to 40% or else Cura starts skin in mid-air)  EDIT: I have noticed that print times increase dramatically with the skin overlap increased. Overhang performance could use improvement.

I really like Polymax PC, but it is very expensive.  It prints a bit easier than ABS.  I still want to try straight PC filament to see how it compares. (requires Magigoo PC which is an added expense)

I had black Polaroid brand PETG that I bought because it was cheap.  It could just be the brand, but it is too flexible and overhang performance sucks so that turned me off to PETG. 

I want to try Polypropylene because it is food and dishwasher safe.  Haven't needed those characteristics for any projects, but I will think of one.  I did have to replace a polypropylene wheel in my dishwasher that fell off and melted against the heating element.  Ended up using Polymax PC for that.  The printed clip to hold the wheel on broke after a year of service.  Dunno if PP would have done better.

I want to try printing Delrin for no good reason.  Aside from sleeve bearings, it might make good joystick or shifter gates.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on February 25, 2022, 06:16:06 pm
I will have to try ASA when i get an enclosure.
what wattage is your hotend heater on the voron?
50w?

the only issue with food safe filament is all the microscopic nooks and crannies in the print where things can hide and grow.
though i can't imagine much living through a dishwasher cycle.
top rack only though.

I had to look up delrin.
they say bed should be around 130c and on top for delrin.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on February 25, 2022, 09:38:49 pm
I will have to try ASA when i get an enclosure.
what wattage is your hotend heater on the voron?
50w?

The Voron 2.4 has a 40w in a Dragon (both standard Dragon and High Flow).
The Voron 1.8 has a 50w in a V6 knockoff.
I haven't timed them, but don't feel like it makes a huge difference.
Hotends heat pretty fast in general.  It's the beds that take a while.

I am impressed with the Overture ASA.  I printed a fan tower from 50-10% fan to see when too much fan during bridging would cause layer separation.  I figured that I would see where the tower broke easiest.
...I cannot break it with my bare hands.  Not getting as good of a surface finish as ABS, but it's probably from running the bigger nozzle and fiddling with settings.  Or it could be that the white color shows everything. 

On the food safe filament: One of the reviewers printed a prosthetic hand out of polypropylene so it could be thrown in the dishwasher to clean it.

On a side note, I am going back to a .4 nozzle.  It could be the slicer, but the printing paths Cura chooses for the wider lines don't seem optimal to me and my prints aren't coming out as nice.  Lots of gaps between walls and spotty infills of those gaps with the .6 nozzle.  Outer surfaces aren't as clean. A more seasoned enthusiast could probably work through it, but I have stuff other than calibration tests that I want to get printed.  Odd thing is that when I switched Cura back to the .4 nozzle, the time for a two hour print only went up by twenty minutes. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on February 26, 2022, 10:20:17 am
I use prusia slicer with my chiron and it's .6 nozzle when printing terrain for miniatures and they come out fantastic.
can't even tell i used a bigger nozzle.
though my layer height is .16, it still prints a little faster than .4

I could never dial in the .6 on cura or more accuratly i tried both slicers and prusia worked better for me off the bat.

however i could never get prusiaslicer to give me prints as nice as i got with cura on my minidelta.
so i use both. :)

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on February 26, 2022, 10:23:36 am
I was going to build an enclosure on my old workbench in the basement for all my printers.
it's cold down there so i need one.
probably with a heat source.

then i saw this.

https://www.amazon.com/Green-House-HC-4202-Greenhouse-Indoor-Shelves-Grow/dp/B01GDVVZY4/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1Y8DCTDTWIA9P&keywords=green+house&qid=1645888424&sprefix=green+house%2Caps%2C112&sr=8-6

(https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81OvQjIhcYL._AC_SL1500_.jpg)

I think a properly hung heat lamp with those interlocking foam pads as the floor should do the trick.

bad idea, good idea?
I can't build an enclosure for just one printer for that price and i have the room.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on February 26, 2022, 11:42:32 am
For a heated chamber I don't think it would be anywhere near as good as a small box around the printer.  It may help as far as getting up to a normal room temperature in a cold basement, but is not going to get as hot as a small enclosure. I printed my Voron 2.4 parts on an anycubic mega with a box made out of a $15 sheet of foamboard insulation over the top of it.  Probably paid another $5 for the tape to hold it together.  Temps got up to and stayed around 50.  I repurposed the same pieces to insulate the Voron 1.8 and that one hovers around 65, but has touched 70.

I do think it would be good for fume mittigation.  After fiddling around with fans  ducts on the 2.4 (which cools the chamber), I came to the conclusion that it would be better to have the printer chamber sealed and then have a larger enclosure or fume hood around it with negative pressure to pull the fumes out.  I plan to build something, but the 2.4 is so friggin big (350mm build plate) that it will be cumbersome.  The greenhouse would be nice If I had more space.  It's a reasonable option though.  I kind of like the 250mm 1.8 more now.  It would fit in a resonably sized cabinet which could be vented to outside.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on February 26, 2022, 01:35:21 pm
I was going to build an enclosure on my old workbench in the basement for all my printers.
it's cold down there so i need one.
probably with a heat source.

then i saw this.

https://www.amazon.com/Green-House-HC-4202-Greenhouse-Indoor-Shelves-Grow/dp/B01GDVVZY4/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1Y8DCTDTWIA9P&keywords=green+house&qid=1645888424&sprefix=green+house%2Caps%2C112&sr=8-6

(https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81OvQjIhcYL._AC_SL1500_.jpg)

I think a properly hung heat lamp with those interlocking foam pads as the floor should do the trick.

bad idea, good idea?
I can't build an enclosure for just one printer for that price and i have the room.
Damn! THAT’S an enclosure, my friend!

My Prusa should be here on Wednesday. Once I get it dialed in, imma start printing Voron parts.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: eds1275 on February 26, 2022, 07:20:31 pm
Hi! I'm suddenly very interested in a 3d printer. Any suggestions? I would like to print things such as camera hot shoe mounts, lewd cookie cutters, microphone clips, cell phone stands... Likely nothing more than 10" in any one direction. I started looking at them but I honestly don't even know enough about it to make a decision. I make 3d models of stuff - is it as easy as converting to a proprietary format and then pushing a button (after what seems to be the scariest part, setting it up?)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on February 27, 2022, 02:08:25 am
I make 3d models of stuff - is it as easy as converting to a proprietary format and then pushing a button (after what seems to be the scariest part, setting it up?)
It's a little more complicated than that, but not much.   ;D

A slicer program (Cura, etc.) allows you to position/orient the model on the print bed, select temperatures for the nozzle and heated bed, and can add features like a raft, a brim, or supports if your model needs them. Once everything is set, the slicer program converts the settings, features, and 3d model into "g-code" that tells your specific plastic poopin' robot what temperatures to maintain, what path to follow, and when to extrude.

What software do you use for 3d modeling?  Can it save as/export to an STL file?

Likely nothing more than 10" in any one direction.
The larger the print bed, the harder it is to keep it flat and leveled.
- IIRC some systems and newer software have auto-leveling that can help with that . . . up to a point.

There are lots of printers with 200mm/7.8" print beds, if that is large enough for you.

lewd cookie cutters
:lol

If your current software doesn't handle this one, you can use Inkscape and OpenSCAD with this plugin to vectorize an image, export it to a DXF, and import the DXF into OpenSCAD.   ;D
- OpenSCAD
http://www.openscad.org/ (http://www.openscad.org/)
- Inkscape
https://inkscape.org/en/ (https://inkscape.org/en/)
- Inkscape to OpenSCAD converter plugin
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:24808 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:24808)

Here's the step-by-step process I used for the Ikari Warriors dust washer here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,155900.msg1647099.html#msg1647099), the SNK logo on the LS-30 handles here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,158253.0.html) and here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,158266.0.html), and the Data East logo handle for Howard in this thread (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,160595.0.html).
- LMK if you have any questions.   :cheers:

Code: [Select]
Convert an image to DXF for OpenSCAD

1. Prep the image in MSPaint.

2. Open Inkscape.

3. File -- Document Properties (Shift+Ctrl+D)
==> Set document size, units = mm

4. View -- Zoom -- Page

5. File -- Import
==> Import image into inkscape

6. Select image (resizing arrows visible)

7. Path -- Trace Bitmap (Shift+Alt+B)
Adjust settings.  When preview looks good, click OK then close the "Trace Bitmap" window.

8. Select then delete the original image, leaving the traced path.

9. Clean up the path as desired.

10. Position and scale image
(Ctrl+Click+Drag Corner to maintain ratio _or_ enter the position/size info via the Inkscape toolbar)

11. Select everything (Ctrl+A) and ungroup all groups. (Ctrl+Shift+G)

12. Path -- Object to path (Ctrl+Shift+C)
==> Converts everything into paths.

13. Ungroup all groups again. (Ctrl+Shift+G)

14. Path -- Union

15. Open the layer window (Ctrl+Shift+L), create new layer, name the new layer. i.e. Layername

16. Cut/paste the paths onto the new layer.

17. Delete the old layer.

18. File -- Save

19. File -- Save as and select “OpenSCAD DXF Output” as the file type.

20. SCAD code
translate([X, Y, Z])
linear_extrude(height = 2, convexity = 10)
import(file = "Filename.dxf", layer="Layername");

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=155900.0;attach=366307;image)  (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=371315;image)  (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=160595.0;attach=378021;image)


Scott
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on February 27, 2022, 09:00:37 am
Hi! I'm suddenly very interested in a 3d printer. Any suggestions? I would like to print things such as camera hot shoe mounts, lewd cookie cutters, microphone clips, cell phone stands... Likely nothing more than 10" in any one direction. I started looking at them but I honestly don't even know enough about it to make a decision. I make 3d models of stuff - is it as easy as converting to a proprietary format and then pushing a button (after what seems to be the scariest part, setting it up?)

Not a proprietary format.  3D models are usually STL files.  The "slicer" converts the STL file into g-code that tells the machine what to do.

Unless you have the money to spend on a Prusa (which will require less fiddling), I recommend starting out with an Ender brand.
I went with an Anycubic Mega S because it has two motors on the Z-axis and uses linear rods instead of wheels on v-channel extrusion.
The design is superior, but spare parts and available upgrades were limited compared to the Ender.  The Ender is the most popular therefore has a ton of third party parts available and the solution to any problem you might have has been addressed in a forum post that will turn up in an internet search.  I really like my Mega S and still use it for PLA prints, but for someone just starting out the Ender is probably the way to go.

The other good thing with the Prusa and Ender is that the default settings for them in the slicer software are pretty refined, so don't require as much fiddling.  You should be able to get really good prints with only adjusting the temperature and print speed.  (there are dozens of other settings)

Without an enclosure, you will pretty much be limited to PLA & PETG filament.  PLA+ has additives which make it a little more flexible (which makes it tougher).  It is easy to print, but both PLA and PLA+ can deform if left in a hot enough car.  It will work for everything you mentioned, but the microphone clip won't last as long as a store bought one.  It would work for the camera mount as long as any small threaded parts aren't 3D printed.  The thread will print fine, but will probably weaken and break off at some point.  The part should be designed to accommodate a bolt instead of relying on 3D printed threads.  Unless you are printing decorative things like figurines, I'd start out with PLA+ instead of regular PLA.  Just printing with PLA is fairly hassle free as long as you aren't using random cheap filament that clogs.

When you are ready to move up to PETG, you'll start getting into other variables.  The printer is capable of printing it in stock form, but the higher temperatures may degrade the PTFE tube inside the heatbreak of the hotend.  Have some spares and learn how to replace them.  You can upgrade to an all metal heatbreak, but then the printer may have problems printing PLA.  The PTFE tube is there to prevent the warmed filament from sticking when retracted.  PLA sometimes sticks to a metal heatbreak, causing a clog.

After you've become comfortable with PETG, you'll probably wan't to try more durable filaments like ABS or ASA.  An all metal heatbreak is required for these temperatures.  The printer also needs to be enclosed.  You may get away with something as simple as a cardboard box, but I made a box out of 1/2" insulated foamboard. These plastics were designed for injection molding and shrink as they cool.  If part of the object cools while another is still hot, it will warp.  A small breeze can cause a part to warp.  Long straight lines shrink more than shorter ones, so you might want to change the the infill pattern. The part cooling fan is usually turned off unless the enclosure is kept particularly warm.  Nitrogen Widget mentioned using a heat lamp to keep the print area warm enough to print ABS without an enclosure.  To get these filaments to print their best, you'll end up tinkering with all kinds of settings.  Lower the temperature so that overhangs and bridges print better and the layer adhesion isn't as strong, resulting in a weaker part.  Raise the temperature to get the layer adhesion strong and bridges and overhangs droop.  Parts have to be designed with these limits in mind.  There are a ton of variables and everything is a trade-off.  There are no perfect settings and you aren't going to get injection molded quality parts.  Keep your expectations in check and never forget that it's just a computer controlled hot glue gun.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: eds1275 on February 27, 2022, 09:42:54 am
I model in blender mostly, I just checked and it does indeed export the STL format. If I were to print something bigger than my printer would allow, do the models glue together easily?

A little bunker made of insulation is a great idea!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on February 27, 2022, 10:05:08 am
For a heated chamber I don't think it would be anywhere near as good as a small box around the printer.  It may help as far as getting up to a normal room temperature in a cold basement, but is not going to get as hot as a small enclosure. I printed my Voron 2.4 parts on an anycubic mega with a box made out of a $15 sheet of foamboard insulation over the top of it.  Probably paid another $5 for the tape to hold it together.  Temps got up to and stayed around 50.  I repurposed the same pieces to insulate the Voron 1.8 and that one hovers around 65, but has touched 70.

I do think it would be good for fume mittigation.  After fiddling around with fans  ducts on the 2.4 (which cools the chamber), I came to the conclusion that it would be better to have the printer chamber sealed and then have a larger enclosure or fume hood around it with negative pressure to pull the fumes out.  I plan to build something, but the 2.4 is so friggin big (350mm build plate) that it will be cumbersome.  The greenhouse would be nice If I had more space.  It's a reasonable option though.  I kind of like the 250mm 1.8 more now.  It would fit in a resonably sized cabinet which could be vented to outside.

I'll have 5 FDM printers.
one is a freebie for the kids to play with and PLA only.
but the mini's I do ABS with and need an enclosure.
if I want to ABS with my chiron i need an enclosure and that has a 400x400mm bed with 400 or 450 height. that's a big enclosure.

then my two resin printers.
one plastic room with a heater and small dehumidifier in the basement can keep my printers and filament warm and dry in a place that is only suitable a few months out of the yr.
i could easily vent fumes outside with a small vent at the top in spurts without losing much heat.

your notion of an enclosure in the enclosure makes me wonder if I can use thick plastic to create a secondary enclosure within the bigger one.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on February 27, 2022, 10:10:26 am
I model in blender mostly, I just checked and it does indeed export the STL format. If I were to print something bigger than my printer would allow, do the models glue together easily?

A little bunker made of insulation is a great idea!

i know prusia slicer has an option to break models up so you can glue them together after.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on February 27, 2022, 10:30:27 am
If I were to print something bigger than my printer would allow, do the models glue together easily?
You can glue flat surfaces, but sometimes it's easier to use alignment posts/holes for non-hollow parts or alignment blocks and safety wire (or zip ties) for thin hollow parts like in this 13" tall TARDIS doorbell cover remixed from a parametric OpenSCAD model found here (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13109) on Thingiverse.

Click on photos for full-size view.

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=390281;image)

You can clearly see the split here, but it's very hard to see with normal lighting and viewing angles.

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=390282;image)

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=390283;image)

Interior view -- don't get your hopes up, this one isn't bigger on the inside than it is on the outside.   :lol

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=390284;image)

Closeup showing the alignment blocks and 0.032" safety wire.

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=390285;image)


Scott
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on February 27, 2022, 11:09:23 am
If I were to print something bigger than my printer would allow, do the models glue together easily?
You can glue flat surfaces, but sometimes it's easier to use alignment posts/holes for non-hollow parts or alignment blocks and safety wire (or zip ties) for thin hollow parts like in this 13" tall TARDIS doorbell cover remixed from a parametric OpenSCAD model found here (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13109) on Thingiverse.

Click on photos for full-size view.

[img width=500]http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=390281;image[img]

You can clearly see the split here, but it's very hard to see with normal lighting and viewing angles.

[img width=500]http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=390282;image[img]

[img width=500]http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=390283;image[img]

Interior view -- don't get your hopes up, this one isn't bigger on the inside than it is on the outside.   :lol

[img width=500]http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=390284;image[img]

Closeup showing the alignment blocks and 0.032" safety wire.

[img width=500]http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=390285;image[img]


Scott

i've looked into this and wood filler or a 3d pen are popular options for hiding the seam if you are planning to paint it.
i've seen people use bondo but i've used that on my car and wood getting painted and it's more annoying than the other options.

my chrion goes up to 17" high with prints.
though i've never printed anything that tall.
i've gone past the average printers build plate and i've loaded up my build plate to let it run for a few days.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: bobbyb13 on February 28, 2022, 01:06:38 am
If I were to print something bigger than my printer would allow, do the models glue together easily?
You can glue flat surfaces, but sometimes it's easier to use alignment posts/holes for non-hollow parts or alignment blocks and safety wire (or zip ties) for thin hollow parts like in this 13" tall TARDIS doorbell cover remixed from a parametric OpenSCAD model found here (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13109) on Thingiverse.

Click on photos for full-size view.

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=390281;image)

You can clearly see the split here, but it's very hard to see with normal lighting and viewing angles.

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=390282;image)

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=390283;image)

Interior view -- don't get your hopes up, this one isn't bigger on the inside than it is on the outside.   :lol

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=390284;image)

Closeup showing the alignment blocks and 0.032" safety wire.

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=390285;image)


Scott

This is awesome.

I love epoxies of different types for weird adhesion problems myself.

Combo of that/those and good alignment holes/posts...?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on February 28, 2022, 03:17:01 am
This is awesome.
Thanks.   ;D

Some print smoothing epoxy probably would have made it even better and hidden the seam, but I didn't want to try it for the first time on a big print like this one.   :scared

(https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71+3+hvGoOL._AC_UY327_QL65_.jpg)

Combo of that/those and good alignment holes/posts...?
I thought those three alignment block pairs would be enough to keep everything perfectly aligned.   :embarassed:

If I ever make another, I might consider adding blocks in the front corners for small alignment holes and separately-printed posts so the layers are parallel with the long axis of the post for strength.
- The bottom of the lower blocks would be tapered like the fins under the alignment blocks so you can print the bottom half of the TARDIS with no supports.

One trick that I used for another print was to use a power drill to friction fit the posts and holes holding the parts together -- use the posts like drill bits.


Scott
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on February 28, 2022, 07:18:34 pm
the reason i like ABS is because i can smooth prints with nail polish remover and a large steel coffee can.

The vyper arrived.
auto level is cool.
the cube xyz print came out almost perfect.
x & y were 20.02mm
Z was 20 mm.

I can live with that.
tossed a longer print on it to see how it comes out.

all my chiron stuff came in.
I decided to print the hot-end adaptor for the V6 volcano out of abs-like resin instead of filament.
this will hold the heatsink, cooling fan and the part cooling fan.
it just looks better, faster print and i don't have an enclosure right now to print ABS.

will it crumble from heat? IDK.
guess i'll find out. :)

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on March 01, 2022, 06:15:26 am
I've used acetone to solvent weld and make slurries to patch non-printed things, but somehow never tried vapor smoothing.  Need to add that to my to-try list.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on March 01, 2022, 11:26:57 pm
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220302/e71b7de0a86931a89a2428ef3422a24e.jpg)

Gonna be a fun weekend!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Mike A on March 02, 2022, 08:16:29 am
Quote
Gonna be a fun weekend!

Is there a sex doll in that box?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Gilrock on March 02, 2022, 09:12:12 am
I could have saved him a ton of money.  I already have one completely built mechanically and all the parts to finish I just have too many other things to do.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: RandyT on March 02, 2022, 09:57:11 am
Gonna be a fun weekend!

Congrats!  I'm sure you'll have fun with it.  When it's all together, let us know if it "just works" like they claim :). 

I love the marketing around these things.  Two of my printers "just worked"... until they didn't anymore.  Finally fixed the Zortrax after being dead for two years with little clue as to what went south.  Turns out that the thing ate one of it's own wires deep inside of a protective sleeve where it couldn't be seen, after only around 150 hours.  But credit where credit is due, once I fixed the wire it's still making PERFECT parts.  The other (a little UP! unit), while not inexpensive and a small build volume, was always a trooper.  There's thousands of hours on it and many, many parts made.  Still works, but the heating element wires broke (can't re-attach with regular solder...it melts) and the nozzle/extruder tube is hopelessly plugged.  Nothing time and money won't fix, but I don't need it right now.

The other two, well, I don't like to think about them too much.  Let's just say you made a wise decision by purchasing a printer with a decent record of support and a vibrant community.  Clone printers from unknown Chinese companies should be avoided like the COOF.  I have a 50lb "red star" monster with a crazy build quality that I don't think I ever got a good print out of.  By time I finally reached out to the company to try to get it's brain upgraded enough to be usable, they had already moved on to different design without making any improvements to the firmware to make it usable.  It's a nice foundation for DIY and should be pretty amazing with enough tinkering, but for what it cost it should have done as well as the Zortrax.  I'll be attempting a brain transplant on that one soon, so wish me luck (I'll need it ).

Another clone (if you can really call it that...I'll lay money that even Crealitys are crapped out of the same Chinese factory) was a Labists.  Looked nice, easy to set up, but terrible problems.  Would often die in the middle of a print by either backing the filament all the way out for no reason or sitting in the middle of it's own giant glob of melted filth, while stuttering like it was having a seizure.  The extruder never seemed to get hot enough so it was constantly grinding filament, etc.  Upgraded the firmware, but still the same issues and no fix in sight from the company.   Finally re-built the hot-end with a cheap aftermarket for a different printer (even bought spares) and at least that part was finally doing it's job, but still had the random spazz-out.  But one day I made the mistake of trying to clear melted plastic from around the heater and saw some sparks and lost the display.  Not one of the half-dozen fuses on the mainboard blew, but the processor fried and was heating the regulator up way high.  Waiting now on a mainboard from an Anet (which is a virtually identical printer with an absolutely identical mainboard...outside of the firmware) to attempt a transplant/personality change.  I never considered that the touchscreen might have it's own firmware which may not be compatible.  Guess I'll find out when it gets here.

But in the meantime, I just got in a Creality Ender 3 V2 yesterday, which is waiting for me to put it together.  The bed sensor should arrive today.  This one gives me hope, due to the huge community, aftermarket support and decent company reputation.  Somehow, I get the feeling that it will soon be dashed, but that's just experience talking.

I have enough printers for a nice little farm, but at the moment it's more like a 3D printing slum.   My new year's resolution is to whip these things into submission, even it it kills me (it well may).

Thanks for letting me vent.  I feel better now  :laugh2:


Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on March 02, 2022, 10:02:03 am
Quote
Gonna be a fun weekend!

Is there a sex doll in that box?
Now I can print you a better quality one.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on March 02, 2022, 10:06:51 am
Gonna be a fun weekend!

Congrats!  I'm sure you'll have fun with it.  When it's all together, let us know if it "just works" like they claim :). 

I love the marketing around these things.  Two of my printers "just worked"... until they didn't anymore.  Finally fixed the Zortrax after being dead for two years with little clue as to what went south.  Turns out that the thing ate one of it's own wires deep inside of a protective sleeve where it couldn't be seen, after only around 150 hours.  But credit where credit is due, once I fixed the wire it's still making PERFECT parts.  The other (a little UP! unit), while not inexpensive and a small build volume, was always a trooper.  There's thousands of hours on it and many, many parts made.  Still works, but the heating element wires broke (can't re-attach with regular solder...it melts) and the nozzle/extruder tube is hopelessly plugged.  Nothing time and money won't fix, but I don't need it right now.

The other two, well, I don't like to think about them too much.  Let's just say you made a wise decision by purchasing a printer with a decent record of support and a vibrant community.  Clone printers from unknown Chinese companies should be avoided like the COOF.  I have a 50lb "red star" monster with a crazy build quality that I don't think I ever got a good print out of.  By time I finally reached out to the company to try to get it's brain upgraded enough to be usable, they had already moved on to different design without making any improvements to the firmware to make it usable.  It's a nice foundation for DIY and should be pretty amazing with enough tinkering, but for what it cost it should have done as well as the Zortrax.  I'll be attempting a brain transplant on that one soon, so wish me luck (I'll need it ).

Another clone (if you can really call it that...I'll lay money that even Crealitys are crapped out of the same Chinese factory) was a Labists.  Looked nice, easy to set up, but terrible problems.  Would often die in the middle of a print by either backing the filament all the way out for no reason or sitting in the middle of it's own giant glob of melted filth, while stuttering like it was having a seizure.  The extruder never seemed to get hot enough so it was constantly grinding filament, etc.  Upgraded the firmware, but still the same issues and no fix in sight from the company.   Finally re-built the hot-end with a cheap aftermarket for a different printer (even bought spares) and at least that part was finally doing it's job, but still had the random spazz-out.  But one day I made the mistake of trying to clear melted plastic from around the heater and saw some sparks and lost the display.  Not one of the half-dozen fuses on the mainboard blew, but the processor fried and was heating the regulator up way high.  Waiting now on a mainboard from an Anet (which is a virtually identical printer with an absolutely identical mainboard...outside of the firmware) to attempt a transplant/personality change.  I never considered that the touchscreen might have it's own firmware which may not be compatible.  Guess I'll find out when it gets here.

But in the meantime, I just got in a Creality Ender 3 V2 yesterday, which is waiting for me to put it together.  The bed sensor should arrive today.  This one gives me hope, due to the huge community, aftermarket support and decent company reputation.  Somehow, I get the feeling that it will soon be dashed, but that's just experience talking.

I have enough printers for a nice little farm, but at the moment it's more like a 3D printing slum.   My new year's resolution is to whip these things into submission, even it it kills me (it well may).

Thanks for letting rant.  I feel better now  :laugh2:
Yeah, I cut my teeth on my Anet A8, which initially got recommended here. It’s been a fun machine to tinker with. Last year converted into an aluminum frame, so now it’s an AM8. It’s a solid little workhorse, but I want to be able to print some more exotic filaments, and I want a boost in quality/resolution, so I took the plunge.

I have a few friends who have Prusas, Including one who I consider quite printing guru. She’s been a great resource for me over the last year’s, and I trust her opinion.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: RandyT on March 02, 2022, 11:24:08 am
Yeah, I cut my teeth on my Anet A8, which initially got recommended here. It’s been a fun machine to tinker with. Last year converted into an aluminum frame, so now it’s an AM8. It’s a solid little workhorse, but I want to be able to print some more exotic filaments, and I want a boost in quality/resolution, so I took the plunge.

I have a few friends who have Prusas, Including one who I consider quite printing guru. She’s been a great resource for me over the last year’s, and I trust her opinion.

Wild.  Didn't even know they made an acrylic one.  I'm sure it's much more stable now.  My monsters are welded steel enclosures and judging from the quality the Zortrax puts out, I think that extra stability makes a big difference in the output.  It's nice that your new machine has all the frills (bed leveling, all-metal hot-end, etc.)  They'll come in handy when you start playing with the tricky stuff.

With too many unfortunate exceptions, paying more usually gets better working and more reliable machines that tend to be around for the long haul.  Research and a brain to pick/shoulder to cry on can make all the difference in the world with these things.  Sounds like you have that covered.  I sure didn't when I started out and paid for it dearly :)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on March 02, 2022, 11:31:30 am
Yeah, I cut my teeth on my Anet A8, which initially got recommended here. It’s been a fun machine to tinker with. Last year converted into an aluminum frame, so now it’s an AM8. It’s a solid little workhorse, but I want to be able to print some more exotic filaments, and I want a boost in quality/resolution, so I took the plunge.

I have a few friends who have Prusas, Including one who I consider quite printing guru. She’s been a great resource for me over the last year’s, and I trust her opinion.

Wild.  Didn't even know they made an acrylic one.  I'm sure it's much more stable now.  My monsters are welded steel enclosures and judging from the quality the Zortrax puts out, I think that extra stability makes a big difference in the output.  It's nice that your new machine has all the frills (bed leveling, all-metal hot-end, etc.)  They'll come in handy when you start playing with the tricky stuff.

With too many unfortunate exceptions, paying more usually gets better working and more reliable machines that tend to be around for the long haul.  Research and a brain to pick/shoulder to cry on can make all the difference in the world with these things.  Sounds like you have that covered.  I sure didn't when I started out and paid for it dearly :)
Heh - I’d say easily 60% The things I printed on my Anet were improvements or hacks for the original machine. I’ve spent a lot more than original $160 shipped I paid on Banggood for the original.

Once I built the Prusa, I’m donating this AM8 printer to my brother-in-law who is an engineer. He’s gonna learn how to prototype using it.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on March 02, 2022, 06:16:56 pm
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220302/e71b7de0a86931a89a2428ef3422a24e.jpg)

Gonna be a fun weekend!


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that's a serious printer.
direct drive
300C top end
auto leveling.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on March 03, 2022, 08:19:22 am
I love the marketing around these things. 

I find it reminiscent of the car tuner thing in the early 2000's.
Young, mostly males, making consistent cheap "upgrades" to an entry level machine with dreams of making it into a high performance machine.
Plenty of companies willing to capitalize on it with cheap products that may or may not make much of a difference.

I can't rag on people too much, because I fall into the same trap because it is fun when an upgrade makes a difference.
Currently looking at my Anycubic Mega thinking about how most of the problems I've had are related to the extruder....a new dual gear one can be had on Ali-Express for $8....$8 and a ton of my time to fiddle with the firmware to account for gearing changes....

But one day I made the mistake of trying to clear melted plastic from around the heater and saw some sparks and lost the display.  Not one of the half-dozen fuses on the mainboard blew, but the processor fried and was heating the regulator up way high.  Waiting now on a mainboard from an Anet (which is a virtually identical printer with an absolutely identical mainboard...outside of the firmware) to attempt a transplant/personality change.  I never considered that the touchscreen might have it's own firmware which may not be compatible.  Guess I'll find out when it gets here.

That's how I killed my first 3D printer, a Monoprice MP Mini Select.  I touched the wires with an adjustable wrench while trying to hold the heat block to tighten the nozzle.
 :cheers:
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on March 07, 2022, 09:27:05 pm
So which one of you can I talk into making an STL for me?  Here’s some crude mock-ups on cardboard.  The idea is to fit a SEGA genesis PCB into an EA case.  Why?  Because I have a stack of EA Sports games and the flash cartridges aren’t compatible with the EA hole pattern. 

I think with some slight trimming of the original case, this adapter, some epoxy to affix it to the case, and two new screw holes through the back, it could be made to work.

Some quick and dirty photos….

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on March 07, 2022, 11:52:34 pm
So which one of you can I talk into making an STL for me?  Here’s some crude mock-ups on cardboard.
Assuming that the adapter is just a flat plate, it looks pretty straight-forward -- a cube for the adapter body minus two screw hole cylinders, a cube for the upper right corner notch, and a notch on the bottom.

  I'll need the following measurements in mm:
BodyX
BodyY
BodyZ

ScrewHoleDiameter
ScrewHole1X (X-offset from lower left corner)
ScrewHole1Y (Y-offset from lower left corner)
ScrewHole2X (X-offset from lower right corner)
ScrewHole2Y (Y-offset from lower right corner)

TopNotchX
TopNotchY

LowerNotchShortX (top of the notch)
LowerNotchLongX (bottom of the notch)
LowerNotchY

I think with some slight trimming of the original case, this adapter, some epoxy to affix it to the case, and two new screw holes through the back, it could be made to work.
Are you planning to epoxy the adapter to the front of the case, the back of the case, or both?
- I assume the back so it's easier to work on.

How/where are you going to fasten the screws going through the new screw holes?
- A nut on the front side of the adapter plate? (easy)
- A nut trapped in the adapter plate? (harder)
- Screw into the filament of the adapter plate? (more likely to fail)

Will the adapter, epoxy, and screws keep the PCB properly aligned and handle the mechanical stresses of multiple insertions and removals of the cart from the console?


Scott
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on March 08, 2022, 12:30:33 am
Hm.  Good things to consider.  Plate will definitely have to be glued to the front cover because screws will run from the outside of the case into the plate to hold it all together.  New holes will have to be drilled in the back cover.

Cartridge pcb will need to sit on posts sticking out from the plate.

Maybe worth taking a looking at these models?





https://www.hdretrovision.com/s/GEN-CART-SHELL.zip

 (https://www.hdretrovision.com/s/GEN-CART-SHELL.zip)



http://www.mrdictionary.net/gameraccoon/revision1/GAMERACCOON_Revision1_gerbers_2020-02-14.zip

 (http://www.mrdictionary.net/gameraccoon/revision1/GAMERACCOON_Revision1_gerbers_2020-02-14.zip)

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on March 08, 2022, 03:50:29 am
Plate will definitely have to be glued to the front cover because screws will run from the outside of the case into the plate to hold it all together.
Are you sure about that?

New holes will have to be drilled in the back cover.

Cartridge pcb will need to sit on posts sticking out from the plate.
Agreed.

How about something like this?

1. Make a printed drilling jig that fits snugly over the old mounting posts and lets you drill the new holes for the back cover in the correct position.
- Will the screw heads and washers be clear of the cart slot if you drill the new holes aligned with the new PCB holes or do we need to move the new holes for mounting the back cover to the adapter plate further up and make separate screw holes on the adapter plate (countersunk on the back) for mounting the PCB to the adapter plate?  Both options shown below.

2. Make an adapter plate similar to your prototype or modified as mentioned above.
- Include short alignment posts for the PCB holes.
- Use #4-40 or M3 screws/washers/insulated washers for the PCB/nuts to connect the back cover, adapter plate, and PCB.
- Shouldn't need epoxy or the front cover to mount these three parts to each other.

3. Trim the part of the old mounting posts that poked through the old PCB.
- Do the old mounting posts run into any components on the new PCB?  If so, you'll need to trim them accordingly.

4. Use the top screws to hold the front and back covers together.
- For additional support, squeeze the front and back covers together when you insert/remove the cart.

Maybe worth taking a looking at these models?
Someone might be able to remix the cart shell parts, but how well will the finish and strength of a 3d printed shell compare to the injection molded originals.   ::)


Scott
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on March 08, 2022, 10:35:16 am
1 - the Sega PCB holes are higher than the EA PCB holes, so any new drilled holes will clear the cartridge slot.

2 - That gets the parts mounted to each other, but doesn't hold the front cover on.

3 - Old mounting posts will have to be trimmed slightly.  They sit lower than the sega posts and fit through the EA pcbs.  You can't close the cartridge shell with a sega PCB in there.

4 - There aren't "top screws" on an EA shell (or sega shell).  Both shells use two screws through the back, through the PCB, and into standoffs molded into the front piece.

Can I just mail you two different carts and you take a look?


Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on March 08, 2022, 07:03:08 pm
1 - the Sega PCB holes are higher than the EA PCB holes, so any new drilled holes will clear the cartridge slot.
The old screws are in a recess, but the new screws would stick out.

   |
   |S  - New screw head (not recessed) for a Sega PCB in an EA cart
   |
---
|S  - Old screw head (recessed) for an EA PCB in an EA cart
---
   |

Based on front-view pictures showing a cart installed in the console, it looks like the Sega PCB screws might be below the top lip of the cart slot, but I didn't find any back-view pictures to confirm.
- Please check this by putting a Sega PCB cart in the console slot to verify the Z-axis positioning of the screw holes relative to the top lip of the cart slot.

2 - That gets the parts mounted to each other, but doesn't hold the front cover on.
 . . .
4 - There aren't "top screws" on an EA shell (or sega shell).  Both shells use two screws through the back, through the PCB, and into standoffs molded into the front piece.
Oops.  I confused the top alignment posts in your pics with screw posts   :embarassed:

It would be easy to add a screw hole high-center on the back cover and epoxy a printed block with a nut trap onto the front cover.

That should hold the front and back covers together well enough, right?

Can I just mail you two different carts and you take a look?
That would be very useful, assuming we can come up with a viable plan for the screws on this cart mod.   :cheers:
- Please slap a piece of tape on the back of the EA cart with a line showing where the top lip of the cart slot is.
- If possible send two EA and two Sega PCB carts so I can do a side-by-side comparison of an original Sega cart and and the modded EA cart with the donor Sega PCB.  The second EA cart would be for the off-chance that I make a mistake during the mod design/fitting process.


Scott
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on March 08, 2022, 07:23:03 pm
I will make it so.  I’m sitting on a box of 44 genesis cartridges.  PM me your address.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on March 08, 2022, 08:30:15 pm
PM sent.   ;D

Before you ship anything, let's double-check how much vertical space there is on the back cover for screws.
- No sense shipping the carts if there isn't enough vertical clearance to do this mod.

Can you take a back-view pic of a Sega PCB cart in the console slot so we can see the positioning of the screw holes relative to the top lip of the cart slot?


Scott
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: RandyT on March 08, 2022, 08:30:40 pm
1 - the Sega PCB holes are higher than the EA PCB holes, so any new drilled holes will clear the cartridge slot.

2 - That gets the parts mounted to each other, but doesn't hold the front cover on.

3 - Old mounting posts will have to be trimmed slightly.  They sit lower than the sega posts and fit through the EA pcbs.  You can't close the cartridge shell with a sega PCB in there.

4 - There aren't "top screws" on an EA shell (or sega shell).  Both shells use two screws through the back, through the PCB, and into standoffs molded into the front piece.

No need to over-engineer a solution for this.  Just find the appropriate sized "Binding barrel and screw" with a barrel long enough to pass through what should be the 1/4" holes(?) but shorter than the space inside and a diameter without much slop.  Two of these with the holes drilled in the proper places on the cart will hold the cartridge together, keep the board centered (it's sandwiched between the halves and/or trimmed bosses) and lock it from moving vertically in the shell.  You can also take it back apart easily to change your battery if you have one.

Personally, I have some pretty nasty hi-temp glue for a glue gun I would likely have taken to it.  The bond would outlast the electronics :)

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on March 09, 2022, 04:21:16 am
Hm, yeah that would definitely work.  I was trying to avoid putting holes in the front, but it would need a new label anyway.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: RandyT on March 09, 2022, 09:52:50 am
Hm, yeah that would definitely work.  I was trying to avoid putting holes in the front, but it would need a new label anyway.

Along the same idea, you could use a couple of blind rivet nuts and some JB Weld epoxy.  Rough up the plastic a little first and it'd probably be just as strong with no holes in the front.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on March 09, 2022, 11:36:13 am
I took a bunch of photos this morning but give up on fighting the forum and its security checks. 

Basically, the EA screws are 10mm lower than the Sega screws, so it won't be an issue drilling new holes in the EA shells, as the new screws will sit above the cartridge slot.

Drilling holes in the front will mean that a 6mm has to be made in the lower right of the artwork.  The other hole will be on black plastic.  The binding screw idea is growing on me.  Possibly JB Welding it in place.




Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on March 09, 2022, 12:43:32 pm
The photos you posted here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,164992.msg1753191.html#msg1753191) show the info that I wanted to confirm. (click for full-size)   :cheers:
- Looks like there is probably enough vertical clearance for the PCB screws to go straight through the back cover.

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=390367;image)

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=390368;image)

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=390371;image)

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=390372;image)


Scott
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on March 09, 2022, 01:27:18 pm
Definitely enough clearance.  Maybe the simplest solution is drill through the back, and just glue the front on with something that's firm but not permanent (hot glue, silicon...)

Title: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on March 10, 2022, 01:43:37 pm
Man, oh man, I am loving the M600 command….


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Vigo on March 10, 2022, 09:49:37 pm
Looks good!  :cheers:
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: bobbyb13 on March 11, 2022, 02:17:28 am
That's rad.

I have to keep telling myself...

Don't need another hobby-
Don't need another hobby-
Don't need another hobby-
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: eds1275 on March 11, 2022, 09:20:16 am
Don't need another hobby-
Don't need another hobby-
Don't need another hobby-

Me either... but... I can't stop being creative!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on March 11, 2022, 12:57:57 pm
I don’t look at it as a hobby so much as a tool. In 20 years, these things will be standard in any new home, watch.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on March 11, 2022, 07:35:35 pm
Man, oh man, I am loving the M600 command….


/img]

very cool.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on March 12, 2022, 08:22:32 am
I don’t look at it as a hobby so much as a tool. In 20 years, these things will be standard in any new home, watch.


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....a tool that's always one upgrade away from being better, but somehow will always be short of what you'd like it to be.

I print a bunch of oddball stuff around the house, but the time and money spent on the printer, designing parts, and experimenting with new materials will always be a net loss.  I accept because it is a hobby.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: RandyT on March 12, 2022, 02:32:09 pm
I don’t look at it as a hobby so much as a tool. In 20 years, these things will be standard in any new home, watch.

As user-friendly as modeling tools have become, there's likely to still be a broad swath of people who won't have the mechanical ability, patience or interest in learning, to actually make a scenario like that very likely.  Heck, most home wiring and plumbing is pretty simple and has been for quite a long time, yet electricians and plumbers always seem to have plenty of work at the prices they demand.

As complicated as these machines can be in use and maintenance, I just don't see it.  Now, if someone comes up with a water washable. food-safe resin one could strike with a hammer or screw into without worry of it breaking, an SLA printer with modular, plug-in replacement parts from Home Depot and AI-driven modeling software capable of creating models from natural-speech descriptions,  I  might say "maybe" :)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on March 12, 2022, 02:44:41 pm
I don’t look at it as a hobby so much as a tool. In 20 years, these things will be standard in any new home, watch.

As user-friendly as modeling tools have become, there's likely to still be a broad swath of people who won't have the mechanical ability, patience or interest in learning, to actually make a scenario like that very likely.  Heck, most home wiring and plumbing is pretty simple and has been for quite a long time, yet electricians and plumbers always seem to have plenty of work at the prices they demand.

As complicated as these machines can be in use and maintenance, I just don't see it.  Now, if someone comes up with a water washable. food-safe resin one could strike with a hammer or screw into without worry of it breaking, an SLA printer with modular, plug-in replacement parts from Home Depot and AI-driven modeling software capable of creating models from natural-speech descriptions,  I  might say "maybe" :)
That’s why I’m thinking it will be about 20 years down the road. The ease of use isn’t there yet, but my experience with the Prusa shows it’s well on the way.

I used to recommend to people to get a cheap Chinese printer to learn about 3D printing. Not anymore. I’m going to tell them to open their wallet and invest in a Prusa.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: bobbyb13 on March 13, 2022, 01:40:21 am
I don’t look at it as a hobby so much as a tool. In 20 years, these things will be standard in any new home, watch.

As user-friendly as modeling tools have become, there's likely to still be a broad swath of people who won't have the mechanical ability, patience or interest in learning, to actually make a scenario like that very likely.  Heck, most home wiring and plumbing is pretty simple and has been for quite a long time, yet electricians and plumbers always seem to have plenty of work at the prices they demand.

As complicated as these machines can be in use and maintenance, I just don't see it.  Now, if someone comes up with a water washable. food-safe resin one could strike with a hammer or screw into without worry of it breaking, an SLA printer with modular, plug-in replacement parts from Home Depot and AI-driven modeling software capable of creating models from natural-speech descriptions,  I  might say "maybe" :)
That’s why I’m thinking it will be about 20 years down the road. The ease of use isn’t there yet, but my experience with the Prusa shows it’s well on the way.

I used to recommend to people to get a cheap Chinese printer to learn about 3D printing. Not anymore. I’m going to tell them to open their wallet and invest in a Prusa.


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I can appreciate your enthusiasm for the discipline yotsuya! but I suspect RandyT is correct as regards the populace in general.
All of you posting here are an anomaly, certainly as regards intellect, interest, discpline, etc.

The bread and circuses crew will never get to where you are until a 3d printer works like a microwave.
Most people couldn't bother to read a package or even pay attention to what was going on once they pressed 'Start' , so now even such a mindless machine as a microwave has a 'Popcorn' button.

Scratch that even.
Never mind everything I wrote after the word 'are.'
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on March 13, 2022, 04:20:10 am
I don’t look at it as a hobby so much as a tool. In 20 years, these things will be standard in any new home, watch.

As user-friendly as modeling tools have become, there's likely to still be a broad swath of people who won't have the mechanical ability, patience or interest in learning, to actually make a scenario like that very likely.  Heck, most home wiring and plumbing is pretty simple and has been for quite a long time, yet electricians and plumbers always seem to have plenty of work at the prices they demand.

As complicated as these machines can be in use and maintenance, I just don't see it.  Now, if someone comes up with a water washable. food-safe resin one could strike with a hammer or screw into without worry of it breaking, an SLA printer with modular, plug-in replacement parts from Home Depot and AI-driven modeling software capable of creating models from natural-speech descriptions,  I  might say "maybe" :)
That’s why I’m thinking it will be about 20 years down the road. The ease of use isn’t there yet, but my experience with the Prusa shows it’s well on the way.

I used to recommend to people to get a cheap Chinese printer to learn about 3D printing. Not anymore. I’m going to tell them to open their wallet and invest in a Prusa.


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I can appreciate your enthusiasm for the discipline yotsuya! but I suspect RandyT is correct as regards the populace in general.
All of you posting here are an anomaly, certainly as regards intellect, interest, discpline, etc.

The bread and circuses crew will never get to where you are until a 3d printer works like a microwave.
Most people couldn't bother to read a package or even pay attention to what was going on once they pressed 'Start' , so now even such a mindless machine as a microwave has a 'Popcorn' button.

Scratch that even.
Never mind everything I wrote after the word 'are.'
You’d be surprised how many 3-8 graders are learning to create and print objects in school due to STEM programs. That’s why I say 20 years.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: bobbyb13 on March 13, 2022, 05:16:30 am
I hope you're right!

The kids in my household are sharp as a scalpel compared to their peers, but I truly do fear for the future- certainly in the islands.
I'm from the NE corridor myself and it is remarkable how behind the curve we are out here in regards to scholastics on average.
Producing more NFL players than astronauts, for sure.

Heaven above do I sound old, just to myself even-
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: RandyT on March 14, 2022, 11:47:51 am
I guess even microwaves and toasters break and stop working, but really not nearly at the frequency of most 3d printers.  I wonder how ubiquitous microwaves would be if they suddenly stopped working because you tried heating the wrong food or set the time incorrectly.  Consumers tend to expect reliability from appliances which cost more than a couple hundred dollars and since what we are talking about are using precision motion- control mechanical components, the cost is in line with refrigerators, washing machines and stoves, which usually last a couple of decades with constant use.  I.e. unless something changes drastically, it'll be a hard sell to "normies". 

I've finally made a bit of progress in my never ending saga. My "little guy" is finally back up and running.  It was literally spitting out it's all-metal hot end, thanks to some questionable engineering, and the filament advance was broken due to age and constant stressing of the 3d printed ABS parts designed to flex.  A drilled and tapped hole for a grub screw, some well-placed massaging with a hot soldering iron and a new heating cartridge put it back into action.  After watching how well this little printer seems to like ABS (with a raft on perfboard), I'm happy to have it back in the arsenal to help with repairs.

The photos show it in progress on an ABS direct extruder motor mount for the big guy next to it.  Right from the Chinese factory, that $2000 beast had many stripped screws and the poorly thought-out hot end was oozing plastic at the threads after the third print.  It eventually spat out the nozzle and tube when those threads failed.  I'm currently converting it from a 3mm Bowden extruder to a more standard 1.75mm direct extrusion meant for a completely different printer.  I'll lose about 50mm in the Y, but at least it should actually work.  Fortunately the old firmware on the machine allows for tuning steps and I was actually able to air print something from the computer, so I'll give it a chance before changing it's brain.

Now waiting for some longer stepper cables and I'll need to machine some large standoffs on the lathe and get some longer screws to raise the bed, so it reaches the new nozzle position.  Getting closer! :)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on March 14, 2022, 01:21:57 pm
I don’t look at it as a hobby so much as a tool. In 20 years, these things will be standard in any new home, watch.

As user-friendly as modeling tools have become, there's likely to still be a broad swath of people who won't have the mechanical ability, patience or interest in learning, to actually make a scenario like that very likely.  Heck, most home wiring and plumbing is pretty simple and has been for quite a long time, yet electricians and plumbers always seem to have plenty of work at the prices they demand.

As complicated as these machines can be in use and maintenance, I just don't see it.  Now, if someone comes up with a water washable. food-safe resin one could strike with a hammer or screw into without worry of it breaking, an SLA printer with modular, plug-in replacement parts from Home Depot and AI-driven modeling software capable of creating models from natural-speech descriptions,  I  might say "maybe" :)
That’s why I’m thinking it will be about 20 years down the road. The ease of use isn’t there yet, but my experience with the Prusa shows it’s well on the way.

I used to recommend to people to get a cheap Chinese printer to learn about 3D printing. Not anymore. I’m going to tell them to open their wallet and invest in a Prusa.


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compared to my chiron the vyper feels like cheating.
i just finished a 54 hour print.
no issues.
with a cura profile off the FB group.
i'd recommend this printer to first timers.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on March 14, 2022, 01:49:37 pm
I guess even microwaves and toasters break and stop working, but really not nearly at the frequency of most 3d printers.  I wonder how ubiquitous microwaves would be if they suddenly stopped working because you tried heating the wrong food or set the time incorrectly.  Consumers tend to expect reliability from appliances which cost more than a couple hundred dollars and since what we are talking about are using precision motion- control mechanical components, the cost is in line with refrigerators, washing machines and stoves, which usually last a couple of decades with constant use.  I.e. unless something changes drastically, it'll be a hard sell to "normies". 

That’s why I’ve clearly stated I think it’ll be about two decades down the road. Come on, you know that technology is constantly improving. E3D has just come out with a nozzle that you can change with your fingers, no tools or fear of burning yourself. Technology advancements and improvements like that will benefit consumers 20 years from now.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: RandyT on March 14, 2022, 02:13:37 pm
That’s why I’ve clearly stated I think it’ll be about two decades down the road. Come on, you know that technology is constantly improving. E3D has just come out with a nozzle that you can change with your fingers, no tools or fear of burning yourself. Technology advancements and improvements like that will benefit consumers 20 years from now.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=post;topic=152421.1200;last_msg=1753359#postmodify

The catch with these is that unless they are WIDELY accepted, the cost of these types of systems will be prohibitive.  A 49 cent nozzle which works fine in the hands of the actual enthusiast will prevent that wide adoption when the alternatives are 100x+ more costly.

In 20 years, I find a much more likely scenario is that FDM printers are relegated to history and will be supplanted by something more capable and user-friendly.  As I mentioned earlier, FDM is literally built upon a 70 year old concept, which just happens to be one of it's majorly limiting facets.

compared to my chiron the vyper feels like cheating.
i just finished a 54 hour print.
no issues.
with a cura profile off the FB group.
i'd recommend this printer to first timers.

And that's the FDM rub.  Amazon reviews (taken for what they are) show the Vyper to have ~25% of reviewers being somewhat to terribly dissatisfied with the purchase.  And it looks like a very nice printer!  While some of that can be chalked up to manufacturing issues, which should only be a few percent, there's still a lot of "not happy" purchasers.   I believe a good chunk of it is nearly impossible expectations given the technology in use.

I've actually had a change in thought.  The fact that just about every printer at a price point is nearly identical nowadays, it gives a good indication that, for the money, that design delivers the best possible result.  Unless one has mushrooms growing between their ears ( :) ) I think a good recommendation would be to jump in on one with the least negative reviews for manufacturing issues, play with it and learn it well.  Then, if the hobby is found to be enticing, begin doing the upgrades yourself to turn it into a better printer.  Because the models are so similar, there is an abundance of inexpensive options for upgrading it to a very good printer.  And doing it yourself means that if you need to fix something (you will) you will know right where to go and how to do it.

Everyone else should throw money at it if available. :)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on March 14, 2022, 03:25:35 pm
Remember there was a time when the only place you could find a computer was a college campus? Yeah.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: RandyT on March 14, 2022, 03:38:23 pm
Remember there was a time when the only place you could find a computer was a college campus? Yeah.

Sorry.  I don't see that as refuting the points I made :)  Widespread adoption, which is brought about by ease of use, reliability, price tags and intense consumer desire for what the technology offers is what brought about the information age.  FDM printing, as incredibly useful as it is for a certain segment of the population, just isn't as enticing to average, non-creative, and/or non-mechanically inclined consumers.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on March 14, 2022, 03:40:22 pm
Remember there was a time when the only place you could find a computer was a college campus? Yeah.

Sorry.  I don't see that as refuting the points I made :)  Widespread adoption, which is brought about by ease of use, reliability, price tags and intense consumer desire for what the technology offers is what brought about the information age.  FDM printing, as incredibly useful as it is for a certain segment of the population, just isn't as enticing to average, non-creative, and/or non-mechanically inclined consumers.
I had a friend here reach out about printing some replacement handles for his shower doors. When people realize they can do stuff like that, and the technology is there to make it easier for them (in, say, 20 years), they’ll find it incredibly useful.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: RandyT on March 14, 2022, 04:12:01 pm
I had a friend here reach out about printing some replacement handles for his shower doors. When people realize they can do stuff like that, and the technology is there to make it easier for them (in, say, 20 years), they’ll find it incredibly useful.

No doubt.  But if that same friend had to spend what you did , learned how to design the models, waited 4 hours for his handles to prints, nicked himself a couple of times with the sharp tools required to clean up the print and had to listen to his wife always asking when he was going to get REAL handles for her shower, his interest will likely have waned considerably.  And God help him if he experienced a machine malfunction or clog somewhere during the process :laugh2:

FDM (and current SLA) technology doesn't really deliver on the promise average consumers want to believe is true. Those who do enough research into the technology already know this and either accept it for what it is (an investment/toy unlikely to ever pay for itself for many who use it) or immediately discard the notion of investing their time and capital to get involved in it.

There are always those for whom it is a godsend and I am one of them.  I am atypical (in more ways than one :) )
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on March 14, 2022, 04:17:41 pm
I don’t disagree with you on a lot of points, I’m just not discounting the fact that
a) there are a lot of young kids right now learning about 3-D printing technology, so by the time they’re adults, it won’t be so foreign and
b) I’m assuming the industry is going to innovate and refine in the next two decades. I have no doubt it’s not gonna look the same as it does today.

Is my mom gonna run out and buy a 3D printer in 20 years when she’s 87? Probably not. Will my daughter, who is taking design classes in college right now and learning about 3-D printing? You bet, if she doesn’t already have one because she’s already learned the basic principles and has already experimented with them.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on March 14, 2022, 04:35:27 pm
In 20 years, I find a much more likely scenario is that FDM printers are relegated to history and will be supplanted by something more capable and user-friendly.  As I mentioned earlier, FDM is literally built upon a 70

I am with Randy on this one.  If they become a standard household appliance, it won't be the FDM version.
I handed an air duct adapter to a friend to show off the print quality.  He has no experience with 3D printing and was very put off by the .2mm layer lines.
It was not the reaction I expected.

The only technology I see as a possibility is PolyJet.  InkJet printer style nozzles deposit resin and are followed by a UV light that cures the resin as it is deposited.
If an affordable desktop PolyJet printer could print three dimensional objects as well and as simply as inkjet printers print photographs, then we would have something.
This isn't a new technology either and the price would have to come down tenfold before even hobbyists mess with it.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on March 14, 2022, 05:40:15 pm
I also agree with Randy.   It's very much one of those specialty tools that the average consumer isn't going to want or need but that's compounded by the fact that it just doesn't work reliably.   Is a microwave a ---smurfy--- way to cook food?  Sure, but it does heat things pretty reliably, so it caught on.  3d printers need to do at least one thing reliably before they will ever go mainstream and due to the limits to the technology, I don't see that ever happening.   
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on March 14, 2022, 06:56:33 pm
Well, let’s just check in in 20 years and see what’s going on.


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Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: bobbyb13 on March 14, 2022, 09:35:25 pm
Well, let’s just check in in 20 years and see what’s going on.


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You very well could be right.
Ironically, it will be YOU all here who succeed in re-engineering these things into units functional enough that one COULD build a printer for the masses.

I always check in on this thread because I enjoy watching you all take products that are still in beta- as far as I am concerened and turn them into functional machines.

Maybe I deal with the public more often or intimately than some of you but I can tell you that you gents are not the norm.

I'm sharper than your average bowling ball and there are scads of discussione here that I sometimes read a few times just to remind myself that they had been typed in english.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: RandyT on March 15, 2022, 11:39:29 am
The only technology I see as a possibility is PolyJet.  InkJet printer style nozzles deposit resin and are followed by a UV light that cures the resin as it is deposited.
If an affordable desktop PolyJet printer could print three dimensional objects as well and as simply as inkjet printers print photographs, then we would have something.
This isn't a new technology either and the price would have to come down tenfold before even hobbyists mess with it.

The latest craze in sign making are the printers which use UV curable "ink".  The major issues with the earlier printers are the solvent -based inks, which are nasty to work near, but which also quickly dry up on and around the tiny print nozzles, leading to clogs and very costly repairs.  The UV curable inks are much slower to dry, and really only do so fully in the presence of UV.  They are already printing multiple layers with the machines for raised lettering you can feel, which also increases durability and fade resistance.

The problem is that this technology is SLOW as the head must use raster motion algorithms to lay down the tiny layers.  Obviously, the smaller the layer, the better the quality, so something like this may be worth the wait.

I have no idea if this already exists, but an interesting machine would be one which uses a UV curable resin "goop" which can be accurately dispensed from a nozzle and subsequently cured by UV to create the layers.  However, unless the "goop" is sufficiently stringy and fast curing enough to deal with unsupported overhangs, without negatively affecting print quality, then the method wouldn't be very useful.  "Goop" also tends to easily trap air, so it would need to come in vacuum treated and sealed pouches, and a certain amount would need to be expelled when changing or adding resin, just to make sure none got in the dispensing path.

That's just one possibility which borrows from current (old) technology and blends with it, something newer.  Just removing the heat and thermal breakdown from the materials would go a long way to alleviate the current issues with FDM (which it technically would still be :) ).  But this seems like an unlikely path for the technology, as SLA printers work much more efficiently and results would be limited in the same ways due to the current state of resin formulation.  The good news is that technology is actually pushing forward on this front, with new and better resins being formulated at a pretty good pace.  This is why I believe that SLA (or similar) technology is the future of 3D printing.  Simpler operation, less moving parts, better results and a more viable path moving forward for achieving durable and genuinely useful parts.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on March 15, 2022, 12:52:08 pm
If it floats, flies, 3D prints, or ---smurfs--- - borrow your friend's.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on March 15, 2022, 07:03:24 pm
That’s why I’ve clearly stated I think it’ll be about two decades down the road. Come on, you know that technology is constantly improving. E3D has just come out with a nozzle that you can change with your fingers, no tools or fear of burning yourself. Technology advancements and improvements like that will benefit consumers 20 years from now.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=post;topic=152421.1200;last_msg=1753359#postmodify

The catch with these is that unless they are WIDELY accepted, the cost of these types of systems will be prohibitive.  A 49 cent nozzle which works fine in the hands of the actual enthusiast will prevent that wide adoption when the alternatives are 100x+ more costly.

In 20 years, I find a much more likely scenario is that FDM printers are relegated to history and will be supplanted by something more capable and user-friendly.  As I mentioned earlier, FDM is literally built upon a 70 year old concept, which just happens to be one of it's majorly limiting facets.

compared to my chiron the vyper feels like cheating.
i just finished a 54 hour print.
no issues.
with a cura profile off the FB group.
i'd recommend this printer to first timers.

And that's the FDM rub.  Amazon reviews (taken for what they are) show the Vyper to have ~25% of reviewers being somewhat to terribly dissatisfied with the purchase.  And it looks like a very nice printer!  While some of that can be chalked up to manufacturing issues, which should only be a few percent, there's still a lot of "not happy" purchasers.   I believe a good chunk of it is nearly impossible expectations given the technology in use.

I've actually had a change in thought.  The fact that just about every printer at a price point is nearly identical nowadays, it gives a good indication that, for the money, that design delivers the best possible result.  Unless one has mushrooms growing between their ears ( :) ) I think a good recommendation would be to jump in on one with the least negative reviews for manufacturing issues, play with it and learn it well.  Then, if the hobby is found to be enticing, begin doing the upgrades yourself to turn it into a better printer.  Because the models are so similar, there is an abundance of inexpensive options for upgrading it to a very good printer.  And doing it yourself means that if you need to fix something (you will) you will know right where to go and how to do it.

Everyone else should throw money at it if available. :)

I will say the most common problem with the vyper is the strain gauge which is used for leveling can break way too easily if the printhead crashed into the bed or a print.
i'm the type of guy who drops his fricken build plate into his resin printer's vat wrecking the FEP and the screen so i ordered a spare.
sometimes they do come broke from the factory and almost all of the anycubic fdm's suffer from loose fasteners.

i belong to the FB groups where people post their problems and 95% of it is user error / ignorance on how these printers work.
90% of their problems is bed adhesion from not leveling the bed.
very few of the people who have had problems legit had a bad part or dead board on their printer.
it comes down to people seeing pretty pictures of prints and not understanding it's a PITA to dial a printer in to get great prints.
usually.
i'm still amazed by the vyper. lol.

I just bought an aquila fdm for $100 in pieces.
that's almost half price.
it was a return.
it looks like the person who bought it couldn't assemble it.
it was never heated up with filament in it.
that much i can tell.
could be a dead board. :)

i'll find out after i finish replacing the wire harness on my 3yr old chiron.  :lol

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on March 15, 2022, 07:06:51 pm
Remember there was a time when the only place you could find a computer was a college campus? Yeah.

Sorry.  I don't see that as refuting the points I made :)  Widespread adoption, which is brought about by ease of use, reliability, price tags and intense consumer desire for what the technology offers is what brought about the information age.  FDM printing, as incredibly useful as it is for a certain segment of the population, just isn't as enticing to average, non-creative, and/or non-mechanically inclined consumers.
I had a friend here reach out about printing some replacement handles for his shower doors. When people realize they can do stuff like that, and the technology is there to make it easier for them (in, say, 20 years), they’ll find it incredibly useful.


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I actually printed replacement handles for the sliding access door on my keggerator.
It had been broken for a while and just sucked to use because it was more of a piece of raised plastic you pushed and pulled on instead of an actual handle you could grip.
PET-G of course since it is outside.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: RandyT on March 16, 2022, 11:17:16 am
i belong to the FB groups where people post their problems and 95% of it is user error / ignorance on how these printers work.
90% of their problems is bed adhesion from not leveling the bed.
very few of the people who have had problems legit had a bad part or dead board on their printer.
it comes down to people seeing pretty pictures of prints and not understanding it's a PITA to dial a printer in to get great prints.
usually.
i'm still amazed by the vyper. lol.


I'd say that was a pretty good assessment of the situation.  It doesn't matter how many times it is stated that the first layer is the most important for achieving a good print.  What's as important is that the individual needs to fully understand how to reach that delicate balance between bed adhesion and thickness/uniformity for that first layer.  And of course, how to get there varies with type/brand of filament being used.  But it's absolutely true, assuming the rest of the machine is assembled and functioning as intended.

Time will tell, but I'm currently convinced that the "bed slingers" upgraded with dual Z-Axis, an optics-based bed probe (with appropriate mesh-leveling firmware), and a direct extruder, optionally with an all-metal hot-end, will provide the best bang-for-buck and help to achieve that balance more easily.  The mid-grade machines like the Vyper already have these (or similar) installed, which is what I believe accounts for the better experience you are having with it.  Fortunately for you, Anycubic hasn't deviated too much in the design, so you'll have options down the road for repairs/upgrades when needed

I actually ordered a similar Cubicon Prime unit, but immediately regretted it when I looked more deeply into the cost of ownership and ease of getting parts, specifically the nozzles for their fancy hot-end.  The company is relatively obscure, and the parts are patented/uncommon so less likelihood of 3rd party replacements.  And of course, this leads to them being able to charge whatever they desire for them, or ceasing production when the next revision arrives.  This happens to be exactly what I am experiencing with the Zortrax and UP! units and it's not a fun ride.  It's a shame that many of the nice, feature-rich machines end up like this and I understand that it's somewhat necessary for the sake of progress.  But I've learned my lesson :)  Even the "perfectly functioning out-of-the-box" units will eventually need TLC and as far as I'm concerned, the easier it is to provide it, the better the printer is.

*edit*
Oh, and forgot to mention...Amazon screwed up and eventually declared the package lost, so I bailed on the Cubicon.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: RandyT on March 16, 2022, 01:11:11 pm
Quick note for those who might care.  An ET4 printer seems to be an ET4 printer, regardless of manufacturer, so long as features are the same.  If you directly flash the MCU, that probably doesn't matter either, as the boards are identical.

My Labists works again and now thinks it's an Anet.  Silent steppers to boot! :)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on March 16, 2022, 07:06:21 pm
i belong to the FB groups where people post their problems and 95% of it is user error / ignorance on how these printers work.
90% of their problems is bed adhesion from not leveling the bed.
very few of the people who have had problems legit had a bad part or dead board on their printer.
it comes down to people seeing pretty pictures of prints and not understanding it's a PITA to dial a printer in to get great prints.
usually.
i'm still amazed by the vyper. lol.


I'd say that was a pretty good assessment of the situation.  It doesn't matter how many times it is stated that the first layer is the most important for achieving a good print.  What's as important is that the individual needs to fully understand how to reach that delicate balance between bed adhesion and thickness/uniformity for that first layer.  And of course, how to get there varies with type/brand of filament being used.  But it's absolutely true, assuming the rest of the machine is assembled and functioning as intended.

Time will tell, but I'm currently convinced that the "bed slingers" upgraded with dual Z-Axis, an optics-based bed probe (with appropriate mesh-leveling firmware), and a direct extruder, optionally with an all-metal hot-end, will provide the best bang-for-buck and help to achieve that balance more easily.  The mid-grade machines like the Vyper already have these (or similar) installed, which is what I believe accounts for the better experience you are having with it.  Fortunately for you, Anycubic hasn't deviated too much in the design, so you'll have options down the road for repairs/upgrades when needed

I actually ordered a similar Cubicon Prime unit, but immediately regretted it when I looked more deeply into the cost of ownership and ease of getting parts, specifically the nozzles for their fancy hot-end.  The company is relatively obscure, and the parts are patented/uncommon so less likelihood of 3rd party replacements.  And of course, this leads to them being able to charge whatever they desire for them, or ceasing production when the next revision arrives.  This happens to be exactly what I am experiencing with the Zortrax and UP! units and it's not a fun ride.  It's a shame that many of the nice, feature-rich machines end up like this and I understand that it's somewhat necessary for the sake of progress.  But I've learned my lesson :)  Even the "perfectly functioning out-of-the-box" units will eventually need TLC and as far as I'm concerned, the easier it is to provide it, the better the printer is.

*edit*
Oh, and forgot to mention...Amazon screwed up and eventually declared the package lost, so I bailed on the Cubicon.

agree on dual z's.
i'm redoing my chirons hot end along with wire harness and didn't want to go the direct drive route because i just replaced the extruder and calibrated e-steps.
but, if i'm replacing the whole hot end bracket i'm thinking of printing up the direct drive also.

edit: yeah i have a right hand duel drive extruder.
just need the slim stepper so going direct drive. 
it took so much to convince also. lol.

was planning on v6 volcano with copper heat break.
I have a BLtouch also and it looks like there is some voodoo i can do to make that work with the stock board so i may go there also.
though i manually leveled the giant glass bed good enough to fill the whole tray with parts and not have adhesion issues.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: RandyT on March 17, 2022, 11:25:14 am
agree on dual z's.
i'm redoing my chirons hot end along with wire harness and didn't want to go the direct drive route because i just replaced the extruder and calibrated e-steps.
but, if i'm replacing the whole hot end bracket i'm thinking of printing up the direct drive also.

edit: yeah i have a right hand duel drive extruder.
just need the slim stepper so going direct drive. 
it took so much to convince also. lol.

was planning on v6 volcano with copper heat break.
I have a BLtouch also and it looks like there is some voodoo i can do to make that work with the stock board so i may go there also.
though i manually leveled the giant glass bed good enough to fill the whole tray with parts and not have adhesion issues.

Just watch for "ringing" in the print surface if using a direct extruder on such a large machine.  If the parts are functional rather than purely cosmetic, it's not really an issue and direct is usually a better overall setup.  Auto-bed leveling is more a quality-of-life thing, but I think that it's especially important on a dual-Z machine and that leveling is performed at least once when the machine is powered on, although it's best done before each print if you can afford the time.  I believe the Chiron has dual Z homing sensors, so that would take some of the possible issues out of the equation.  But if you're ok with doing it manually, and the firmware supports manual mesh leveling, then the bed probe sensor isn't really a necessity.

Through a series of fortunate events, I ended up with the Cubicon PRIME unit anyway.  It got itself "un-lost" and showed up on my doorstep yesterday.  Amazon told me to just keep it when I informed them.  Never before have I felt so dirty opening a box, but I set it up and checked it out.  At first glance, it looks like a normal "bed slinger" of the ET4 style, with a nice fully enclosed steel bottom section and a touch screen which also has a knob for navigating the advanced functions of the firmware.  I have to say, the unit is very well-built and feels more solid and heavy than something like an Ender 3 v2.  There is a lot of attention to detail that seems to be missing on other units and it comes mostly assembled out of the box.  One thing which jumps out immediately is the huge direct extrusion hot-end/fan assembly which necessitated a double height cross extrusion just to support it's weight.  It's clear that the machine's frame was designed around this assembly.  One of the first things I do with a new machine is force it to print one of it's demo files in ABS by tweaking the temps and fan at run-time, instead of using the supplied PLA the files are meant for.  Aside from being a bit difficult to change the values on the fly without grinding the filament, the resulting print passed with flying colors.  No curling, perfect bed adhesion and a very uniform surface.  It also printed faster than I would usually go with ABS and it did it without a problem.  The transducer in the extruder section worked exactly as it should.  There are NO bed adjustment knobs on the unit whatsoever.  You just tell the unit to perform it's mesh leveling procedure, which it does directly from the nozzle tip, and afterward set the Z-offset from the center of the table with a slip of paper or the included card.  That's it.  Done.

I really didn't want to like this printer, but I really do.  The only thing which would keep me from recommending it is the question of long-term reliability and accessibility of the specialized parts.  But if they hold up over time, it's possibly the nicest printer I have seen for the $320 (with the current $80 coupon on Amazon).  Especially when it would cost more in total to add those features to an Ender 3 V2, and still not have the same build quality.  Out of the box, and replacement parts aside, I'd have been extremely happy having this as my first 3D printer.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on March 17, 2022, 07:03:35 pm
Had a look at that Cubicon Prime...
Proprietary nozzles?
Randy, please stop buying these things.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: RandyT on March 17, 2022, 09:59:52 pm
Had a look at that Cubicon Prime...
Proprietary nozzles?
Randy, please stop buying these things.

I tried!  They wouldn't take no for an answer and gave me a 100% discount :).  There is a saving grace with that machine, though.  It's built quite well and reportedly is using an MKS Robin Nano V3.0 main board for it's brain with TMC2209 motor drivers , running what looks like fairly normal Marlin 2.0 firmware.  From the looks of it, it wouldn't be too hard to slap just about any extruder on that substantial cross member/carriage plate, tweak the steps/mm and be back in business.  Much easier to do on the Cubicon than either the Zortrax or the UP! units I have.

And to be fair, they do provide a spare and the nozzles don't seem so complex that I couldn't knock off a dozen or so in a couple of hours, based on readily available parts, but who wants to do that?

But in the end, I agree.   It's hard to get past anything on a printer made from unobtainium.


*edit* Forgot the need for an alternative bed leveling device like the BLTouch/CRTouch in the mod, but still not terrible as I would want that anyway .
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on March 18, 2022, 07:12:07 pm
agree on dual z's.
i'm redoing my chirons hot end along with wire harness and didn't want to go the direct drive route because i just replaced the extruder and calibrated e-steps.
but, if i'm replacing the whole hot end bracket i'm thinking of printing up the direct drive also.

edit: yeah i have a right hand duel drive extruder.
just need the slim stepper so going direct drive. 
it took so much to convince also. lol.

was planning on v6 volcano with copper heat break.
I have a BLtouch also and it looks like there is some voodoo i can do to make that work with the stock board so i may go there also.
though i manually leveled the giant glass bed good enough to fill the whole tray with parts and not have adhesion issues.

Just watch for "ringing" in the print surface if using a direct extruder on such a large machine.  If the parts are functional rather than purely cosmetic, it's not really an issue and direct is usually a better overall setup.  Auto-bed leveling is more a quality-of-life thing, but I think that it's especially important on a dual-Z machine and that leveling is performed at least once when the machine is powered on, although it's best done before each print if you can afford the time.  I believe the Chiron has dual Z homing sensors, so that would take some of the possible issues out of the equation.  But if you're ok with doing it manually, and the firmware supports manual mesh leveling, then the bed probe sensor isn't really a necessity.

Through a series of fortunate events, I ended up with the Cubicon PRIME unit anyway.  It got itself "un-lost" and showed up on my doorstep yesterday.  Amazon told me to just keep it when I informed them.  Never before have I felt so dirty opening a box, but I set it up and checked it out.  At first glance, it looks like a normal "bed slinger" of the ET4 style, with a nice fully enclosed steel bottom section and a touch screen which also has a knob for navigating the advanced functions of the firmware.  I have to say, the unit is very well-built and feels more solid and heavy than something like an Ender 3 v2.  There is a lot of attention to detail that seems to be missing on other units and it comes mostly assembled out of the box.  One thing which jumps out immediately is the huge direct extrusion hot-end/fan assembly which necessitated a double height cross extrusion just to support it's weight.  It's clear that the machine's frame was designed around this assembly.  One of the first things I do with a new machine is force it to print one of it's demo files in ABS by tweaking the temps and fan at run-time, instead of using the supplied PLA the files are meant for.  Aside from being a bit difficult to change the values on the fly without grinding the filament, the resulting print passed with flying colors.  No curling, perfect bed adhesion and a very uniform surface.  It also printed faster than I would usually go with ABS and it did it without a problem.  The transducer in the extruder section worked exactly as it should.  There are NO bed adjustment knobs on the unit whatsoever.  You just tell the unit to perform it's mesh leveling procedure, which it does directly from the nozzle tip, and afterward set the Z-offset from the center of the table with a slip of paper or the included card.  That's it.  Done.

I really didn't want to like this printer, but I really do.  The only thing which would keep me from recommending it is the question of long-term reliability and accessibility of the specialized parts.  But if they hold up over time, it's possibly the nicest printer I have seen for the $320 (with the current $80 coupon on Amazon).  Especially when it would cost more in total to add those features to an Ender 3 V2, and still not have the same build quality.  Out of the box, and replacement parts aside, I'd have been extremely happy having this as my first 3D printer.

I was told the fact the chiron is such a big machine the direct drive affects it less than a smaller printer.
however many people have done this mod without any issues plus i'm using a shorter stepper with less weight.
yeah i don't need the bl-touch but i bought it for a different printer (mini delta) and then found better firmware with a higher mesh for auto leveling and decided i didn't need it.

so i want to use it because i have it. And honestly most of my prints on the chiron go hours to days so a few minutes auto leveling are no big deal.
i do all my small stuff on my mini-delta anyways.

i wouldn't feel too bad. i've heard of people getting shipped two printers accidently and amazon told them to keep it.
the cubicon - never heard of it but let us know how it works.
auto leveling is a nice feature.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: RandyT on March 18, 2022, 10:33:31 pm
I was told the fact the chiron is such a big machine the direct drive affects it less than a smaller printer.

Hmmm... I've always interpreted the issue as being from oscillations at the nozzle or bed caused by an overall lack of frame or motion component rigidity.  As the size of the structure increases, the more difficult it becomes to maintain that rigidity.  The addition of weight on any of these moving, suspended structures would tend to exacerbate such an issue.

Even so, it can be managed even if it happens, through acceleration and jerk value tuning.  With slower accelerations and direction changes, rigidity becomes less of an issue.  I doubt the large machine will have any issues which can't be addressed in one way or another.  I suppose I'll find out first-hand, as I just set up an SV-03 last night.  Not quite as big a machine as yours, but probably larger than I'll likely take advantage of very often, unless it proves reliable enough to fill that large bed with parts.   

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on March 21, 2022, 01:07:09 pm
I was told the fact the chiron is such a big machine the direct drive affects it less than a smaller printer.

Hmmm... I've always interpreted the issue as being from oscillations at the nozzle or bed caused by an overall lack of frame or motion component rigidity.  As the size of the structure increases, the more difficult it becomes to maintain that rigidity.  The addition of weight on any of these moving, suspended structures would tend to exacerbate such an issue.

Even so, it can be managed even if it happens, through acceleration and jerk value tuning.  With slower accelerations and direction changes, rigidity becomes less of an issue.  I doubt the large machine will have any issues which can't be addressed in one way or another.  I suppose I'll find out first-hand, as I just set up an SV-03 last night.  Not quite as big a machine as yours, but probably larger than I'll likely take advantage of very often, unless it proves reliable enough to fill that large bed with parts.

yep. I will find out.
people are claiming 100 mm/s print speed with direct drive and volcano.
not expecting that speed. But if i can do it.

should get my right handed dual drive extruder today.
I only had the left handed which doesn't fit the bracket.

Bracket and cooling vent are painted but man paint isn't drying.
too cold outside and basement.
going to bring the parts in and put them on the heat vent to dry.

the wiring in this chiron has issues.
every wire placed in a screw terminal is tinned.
I don't care about the non-load carrying stuff like sensors and stepper wires, but the wires for the heat bed and hot end need to be fixed.
there are also many points of failure in this printer's wiring.
WAY too many junctions for sub PCB's just for the connector to the wiring harness (main reason i'm doing this).
going to eliminate them and go directly to the control board with as much as I can before going to perf board with screw terminals on the print head.
tired of stupid little clips that are non-standard size where i have to solder a clip every time i replace a thermistor or heating element.
going straight screw terminal so i can just strip the wire and jam it in there and be done.

all this said, i've never had a wiring issue or a fire with my chiron despite this happening to others.
I just have broken wires in my main harness.

there are a dozen videos on this but i'll take pics of each step and post them up.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on March 23, 2022, 05:42:06 pm
This is the hotend i've printed up.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4236354

Here is the dual drive extruder.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094HRCSYF?ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_asin_title&th=1
Here is the smaller stepper for the extruder.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TY4BFF2?ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_asin_title&th=1

I never saw a direct drive's components so was very confused at first on how the hotend heatsink mounted to the printer with me removing the the mount from the chiron.
I feel stupid now because i stared at the extruder and the heatsink and then the bulb went off and it was easy.

The new stepper is so small next to the original stepper.

after i got it all assembled i realized i forgot to press the nuts into the inside so had to take apart and do again. this is where the new bracket attaches to the carriage via the original hotend bracket.

painted up and almost ready to go on.
I put some rubber cement on the part cooling fan because even though there isn't much resistance i felt some kind of seal should of been between the fan and the part cooler.
I'm waiting for some heat sink compound to arrive since my last bit was rock hard. i want to use it on the threads for the copper heatbreak going into the heat sink.

I just printed up a new heatsink for the V6 that uses a standard 40mm fan.
I can't find the cooler that came with it. eh, it was 30 mm anyways.
painting that now.

yes i know these prints looks awful finish wise.
nobody will ever get that close to the hotend so i don't need a show piece.

now i need to create a part to mount my junction PCB to the carriage.


Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on March 26, 2022, 09:17:40 am
yes i know these prints looks awful finish wise.
nobody will ever get that close to the hotend so i don't need a show piece.

Looks as good as what I've been getting recently.   :banghead:

I've been tweaking the Voron 2.4 trying to get more speed out of it, but am coming to the conclusion that the materials I print with (ABS & ASA mostly) just don't like to be printed fast. 
Even if I manage to print a layer fast, the print goes to crap if the minimum layer time isn't long enough.  This pretty much cancels out any increases in print speed when printing a single object that isn't huge.  Part fan cooling may make the parts look better, but will result in weak parts.  60mm/s walls and 150mm/s infill seems to be as fast as it wants to go and still produce decent looking prints.  Acceleration max is only set to 3500 because when I did the initial setup, whatever test results dictated that print quality decreased over that.  I've run the full setup including input shaping using an accelerometer. Someday I'll do all that testing again I guess.  :-[

I got some Black Polymaker ASA and printed a bunch of tests to dial it in.  Everything looked great until I printed an actual useful part (fishing rod holder).  I dunno why the valleys look like crap.  Maybe having ironing turned on messed with the valleys.  The (supported)overhangs underneath look really bad, but they could be designed out of the part.  Seams always look bad.  Guess I need to spend days reprinting the same part to figure it out.  :'(

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on March 26, 2022, 09:47:27 am
yes i know these prints looks awful finish wise.
nobody will ever get that close to the hotend so i don't need a show piece.

Looks as good as what I've been getting recently.   :banghead:

I've been tweaking the Voron 2.4 trying to get more speed out of it, but am coming to the conclusion that the materials I print with (ABS & ASA mostly) just don't like to be printed fast. 
Even if I manage to print a layer fast, the print goes to crap if the minimum layer time isn't long enough.  This pretty much cancels out any increases in print speed when printing a single object that isn't huge.  Part fan cooling may make the parts look better, but will result in weak parts.  60mm/s walls and 150mm/s infill seems to be as fast as it wants to go and still produce decent looking prints.  Acceleration max is only set to 3500 because when I did the initial setup, whatever test results dictated that print quality decreased over that.  I've run the full setup including input shaping using an accelerometer. Someday I'll do all that testing again I guess.  :-[

I got some Black Polymaker ASA and printed a bunch of tests to dial it in.  Everything looked great until I printed an actual useful part (fishing rod holder).  I dunno why the valleys look like crap.  Maybe having ironing turned on messed with the valleys.  The (supported)overhangs underneath look really bad, but they could be designed out of the part.  Seams always look bad.  Guess I need to spend days reprinting the same part to figure it out.  :'(

I would flip that part on the long end to print.
but i'm guessing the velcro run inside it might cease to exist if you did that.
the fact you were able to get velcro to work with a print like that is amazing.
sometimes i can't even get nuts to sink properly.

I found a profile for pet-g on the vyper and it's printing amazingly. hardly any stringing and high quality.
printing loot studios swamp shack made for resin printers in pet-g and while annoying to print so many little parts to glue together it looks good.

I had to print some 30mm to 40mm extender adaptors in order to clear the mounting plate.
i'm doing a 35mm and 40 mm extender.
for the second time.
I didn't realize how thin they printed and broke both trying to remove supports so a reprint with different supports is happening now.
i'm building a franken hotend now.
i've been dragging my feet on the re-wire process though.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on March 26, 2022, 10:32:52 am
I would flip that part on the long end to print.
but i'm guessing the velcro run inside it might cease to exist if you did that.

That was my original plan, but I didn't like the way Cura was handling the bridge over the open velcro channel.
It chooses to print long lines over empty space rather than bridge over the narrow horizontal channel. 
I will still give it a shot.

I dislike a lot of the decisions Cura makes about the toolpath.
I try SuperSlicer every few months, but end up getting annoyed with it. Why can't I just add a friggin' filament? Instead it requires you to make changes to an existing one & save it as something else. 
The last time around there was something in the g-code for the included calibration prints that the Voron didn't like.  There is always something to make me give up and go back to Cura.

EDIT: Trying SuperSlicer again with this Voron profile: https://github.com/AndrewEllis93/Ellis-PIF-Profile (https://github.com/AndrewEllis93/Ellis-PIF-Profile) .  The printer was trying to extrude my purge line before heating, so I had to add heat and wait lines before print_start in the superslicer start g-code.  This is probably what was happening with the built in calibration tests last time I tried SuperSlicer.  Not crazy about 40% part cooling fan for ABS/ASA, but I want to try the guy's settings without changing anything.  Even if the part comes out nice, I will probably break it just to see how much strength was lost.   :lol
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on March 26, 2022, 04:44:53 pm
Surface finish and corners look sooo much better with the borrowed SuperSlicer profile.
Had a couple issues with the supports though.  The ceiling popped right off and left a decent finish.
The floor that was touching the part however, is adhered to the layer below it.  No way to get it separated, but sand it off.
Superslicer also added supports with brims around the bottom of the part all the way to the bed.  The brims need trimmed off my part now.
This could probably be improved by tweaking the support settings.  In Cura, using tree supports that only touch the build plate would solve it.

Biggest issue I have is that the part broke fairly easily when I squeezed both hooks together.  That 40% fan probably both made the surface finish look good and killed layer adhesion.
I could not break the old part that was printed without a fan (except for bridges).

So now I guess I compare the superslicer settings to my Cura settings and decide which one to move forward on.
Both slicers are within a minute of each other, so the speed settings I arrived at myself in Cura must not be too far off.
The surface finish is much better on Superslicer though.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on March 26, 2022, 07:44:25 pm
Last one I post.  I swear.

This one was done in Cura, but oriented on its end like the Superslicer one.  Surface finish is much better.  This one was printed with 0% fan (40% on bridges).  It is STRONG.
Tree supports were used which kept the left side perfect.  The inside of the right hook which printed on top the support leaves a bit to be desired, but could probably be improved.
The holes and recesses are kind of messed up from where the supports connected.  They probably weren't necessary and I should have blocked them.
Anyways, the left half of this print is up to my standards now.   :lol

Probably sticking with Cura.  I did notice that Superslicer has the option to add a shrinkage amount to the filament properties, which is awesome.
I've been redesigning parts to fit through trial and error when I should have just been scaling them in the slicer.  I thought shrinking while cooling was too complicated to be a set percentage.  After some research, it seems I may be wrong about that.


Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on April 01, 2022, 05:31:53 pm
I did a lot of testing yesterday trying to get nice overhangs with Polymaker ASA and no fan. This stuff is crazy strong when printed with no fan.
Conclusion: Without using the part cooling fan, the only solution is to go slow.....stupid slow....5mm/sec slow.   :o
I would have never thought to go that slow, but that is where the testing led me.

There is an experimental setting in Cura for overhang angle and overhang speed % (% of wall speed).
I set that to 10% and then look at the "speed" color scheme in the preview to see how fast the overhangs are printed.
I printed a Benchy and the sides of the boat further up were still crap, so I reduced the overhang wall angle to 20% so that would print slow as well.

Also did some experimenting with minimum layer time on the benchy pipe up top.  Lifting head resulted in a worse print.  Pausing to wait at all resulted in a worse print.  Filament oozes while printing has stopped and makes a mess.  It's better to keep the nozzle moving, but get the longer layer time by going.....stupid slow again.  Under cooling, I set the minimum speed to 5mm/s then adjusted the layer time until the pipe printed around that speed.  (so the nozzle doesn't stop moving)  Ended up with an 18 second layer time and the pipe comes out perfect every time.  This is actually faster than the 25 second layer time I've seen some people use for ABS.  The one I printed with slow sides and pipe was just over 2 hours.  It still has issues on the posts of the cab at the level of the windows.  I am pretty sure that could be fixed by printing the entire thing slower, but I don't feel like doing a 3 hr Benchy.

Thought I would share since I've never seen anyone anywhere printing this slow before.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on April 18, 2022, 10:14:25 am
Voron 1.8 widebody edition, with double the toolheads.  ;D

I was a bit apprehensive of going down this path, but it wasn't as hard as expected.
It took an evening and a morning to get the config file squared away.

Nowhere near printing yet, but I can home and control the toolheads independently.  Everything moves in the direction it supposed to.
I'm not using anything that wasn't already in klipper (hybrid_corexy kinematics, dual_carriage).  Getting all the directions correct so the X motors don't fight the Y motors took some trial and error, but wasn't that bad.
The only issue is that when homing Z, Klipper doesn't have an option to automatically switch to the required toolhead if the wrong one is currently selected.
It can be worked around, but is more complicated than it should be.

I started printing the parts eddietheengineer has on github https://github.com/FrankenVoron/Tridex (https://github.com/FrankenVoron/Tridex), but didn't want to buy NEMA 14 motors and didn't like how thin some parts of the front idler assemblies were.  I also didn't want to spend the time & plastic printing parts that will most certainly be revised later.  So for the Y axis, I used a pair of NEMA 17s from the dead printer junkyard and mounted them the quickest/least effort way with parts I had on hand.  He had an issue with the backs of the x-axis belts rubbing against the linear rail blocks.  My setup also has this problem.  Either the idlers on the x/y gantry need moved forward or the extrusion between them needs moved back.  For now I ordered smaller idlers which aren't ideal, but will hopefully move the belts forward a tiny amount.  EDIT:  Also wondering if using toothed instead of smooth idlers would give any clearance.

eddietheengineer's BOM calls for a mcu that can handle 7 motors.  This is only the case if you are using CANBUS to control the two extruder motors.  If not, 9 motor drivers are needed.  The CANBUS setup is another layer of expense & complication that I am not ready for.   I can get away with 8 motor drivers(Octopus) since the 1.8 only needs two for the Z axis instead of 3 like the Trident.  Right now I am running both Y motors off the same driver, so could add a third Z for a Trident conversion.  I need to see if the linked Y motors cause any issues first.  I already had a 3 driver expansion board on the way from aliexpress.  When it arrives I will see if it works with the Octopus.

This is a test rig and pretty much everything on it is temporary.
I wanted to make sure that I could get the kinematics working before sinking more time and money into details.
Now that the concept works (I think), it can be refined.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on April 21, 2022, 06:55:13 pm
(https://www.memesmonkey.com/images/memesmonkey/d1/d105562d38cf529529b119d997bd899e.jpeg)

is this for water soluble supports or just to be an absolute madman?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on April 21, 2022, 08:55:15 pm
is this for water soluble supports or just to be an absolute madman?

Soluble supports.  It might be HIPS with limonene though, I haven't worked out the math.  HIPS is cheap, but the limonene solvent is expensive.  PVA filament is expensive, but water is cheap.  I also think HIPS is fairy brittle, so it might break off easy then just require a spot clean with the solvent?

This thing is a long term project with an indefinite time frame.
Today I reworked the STLs for the ends of the gantry to add clearance behind the X belts and secure the Y belts. 
Those will print tonight.

I flipped the Y motors to higher up inside the frame and am working out a pulley and tensioner system.

After the motion control is worked out, there are still many issues that I am choosing not to think about until I have to.


Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on April 25, 2022, 08:39:23 am
Dunno if anyone here cares about my 3D printer tinkering, but I don't belong to any other forums to post on.  :lol

Settled on this boring belt path for the Y axis.  I planned to put a tensioning adjustment in the back, but there isn't room so need to rework the front.  This is just a plate for testing.  The final version will have the bolts holding the idlers supported on both ends.  I flipped the X motors over so they are above the back crossbar instead of below it.  That with this Y motor mounting puts all four X and Y motors in the same area which will eventually be isolated from the build chamber and cooled.  I think the Octopus control board can fit in there as well which would make every run of wire in the machine much shorter.

I installed the new X/Y joints which pushed all the belts out 2mm.  This looked like too much and the back idlers pushed the belts out way too far.  So I did what I should have done the first time around and measured the distance between the belts and the linear rail at both ends.  It turns out that leaving the rear idlers where they were and only pushing the front ones out 1mm would have been the correct thing to do.  So another overnight print and I have X/Y joints that give the belts 1mm clearance over the blocks.  The top and bottom belts are in perfect alignment with each other which gives me a warm and fuzzy feeling.

Since the belts are still pressed against the blocks where they are attached, they can still rub when both X axis blocks are near each other.  So next up is to rework the x-carriage to incorporate a 1mm shim behind the belt being attached.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on April 26, 2022, 10:30:33 pm
I've been following along... I just don't have anything useful to comment on.   The documentation of your experiments are very much appreciated. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: bobbyb13 on April 27, 2022, 02:09:02 am
I am merely a voyeur here because the stuff is fascinating but I still know almost nothing about it all !
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on April 27, 2022, 02:22:17 pm
Progress:

The belts for each X carriage must pass through each other. 
In the last installment, I moved idlers forward 1mm to provide 1mm of clearance behind them.  (pic1)

The other worry is that the belts will rub the mounting screws.  I verified they did not by attaching the belt to only one carriage and installing only bolts in the other so that everything was visible.  (pic2)
I may have thrown in the towel or restarted from scratch if this hadn't worked out.

The next issue was to raise the secured belt 1mm off the block so it doesn't rub the other carriage when they are close.  I started out with a shim, but really hated the idea of having to hold the shim, belt, and carriage all in place while installing screws.  Finally came up with a different way.  (pic3)

Final clearances.  (pic4)  Top is secured, bottom is pass-through.  Other carriage will be opposite.  Passthrough tolerance looks super tight, but I pushed on the belt in all directions and it moves (meaning it has room to move).  Did the same test with the carriages at the ends and close to each other.  An official design would probably have more clearance toward the front to account for variation in parts used.  I am running with this for my build though.  The parts pictured are test pieces.  I will print the full carriage parts tonight.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on April 29, 2022, 12:49:10 pm
Complete dual toolheads now mounted.  Waiting on Y drive parts to print, then it will be alive again.  It turns out that the old induction sensor will not work with the newer Voron carriages (it touches down before the nozzle!).  I had a pair of the newly specc'd ones on the way from Ali-Express, but shipping was delayed.  So I ordered a knock-off from amazon along with some HIPS filament.  Hopefully I will be pushing plastic next week.

The BTT EXP-MOT expansion board came in.  It allows you to drive 3 more motors.  It works fine with the Octopus.  This means that I can run the Y motors independently and also upgrade the to the Trident Z axis.

If anyone has a need to add a few more motor drivers to a BTT board, here is what you need to know:

It connects to EXP1 & EXP2 that the screen would normally use.  If you have a setup where the display connected to the mcu is required, this is not an option.
The included cables are only about an inch long.  This is because the board was designed to work with SKR 1.3/1.4 and sit right up against it.
I used a set of cables that came with a display and had no issues.

All pin assignments just use the EXP1 & EXP2 pins on the Octopus.  There are no separate addressable pins.
Wipe out your display pin assignments before connecting the expansion board.
It took me longer than it should have to work out the pins because I tried to translate an SKR 1.4 example to the Octopus.  Something was either wrong on the example, or I transposed a couple things. 
The pinout included with the expansion board documentation is from the silkscreen on the back of the board, so it is a mirror image.  It is not a guide as if looking down on the board like the documentation for other BTT products.

Anyways, worked through it and pic of pin assignments is attached if anyone is looking for them on a diy arcade forum.  I only tested Motor 1.  Now using all of them and they are correct, but always check every pin assignments yourself.  Jumpers were set for 3.3v logic & UART mode.  Other jumpers next to EXP2 removed.

This expansion board is a neat thing to have on hand.  I haven't gone through everything required, but with one of these someone could probably run a Voron 2.4 with a single old SKR1.3 or 1.4 that they already have on hand instead of buying an Octopus or second MCU.  A Trident could definitely be run off of it.

EDIT:  I also should have mentioned that I cut the sensorless homing pin off the stepper driver per Voron instructions, as there is no jumper to disable it.

 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on April 29, 2022, 07:38:58 pm
Your progress is inspiring!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on May 03, 2022, 01:10:37 pm
The Y drive is back together.  Everything fits inside the frame with absolutely no travel lost.  The Y limit switches needed a home so I added a place for them last minute before printing.
The back pulleys are a couple mm too high.  I thought I had fixed this, but might have started with the wrong file when I added the limit switches. 
It will need at least one more revision, but I'm rolling with these parts for now to see if any other changes need made.

I need to make a decision on whether or not to move the octopus board up between the motors before I can start rewiring everything.



Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on May 04, 2022, 03:31:19 pm
So I'm printing parts on the Voron 2.4 and they start looking weird.  The back is perfectly fine, the front is missing starting at a certain layer.
Filaments spool preload might be a little tight, so I loosen it up and start the next print.  Again, printer stops extruding filament toward the front.
Diagnosis = extruder motor wires are probably broken inside the drag chains.   :banghead:

I already went through this with the inductive sensor a month ago, but was hoping it as an isolated case.
I guess the silicone ribbon cable I used just wasn't up to the task. 
So now a complete rewire of the toolhead is required when I'd rather be working on other things.


Again, this is a horrible hobby.   :angry:

EDIT: Fixed after three hours of work.  I had just enough of various color silicone wire to make a new run for the extruder motor.  The only other run from the toolhead using the bad wire was for the induction sensor which already failed and was already replaced a month ago.  Now my "by the book" black and red V2 has a rainbow of wiring colors.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: bobbyb13 on May 04, 2022, 11:49:43 pm
The fortitude you guys have on getting/keeping these things running is admirable.
And I thought learning CRTs was the ultimate time-suck.
What a freakin rabbithole printing is.

Like my neighbor the programmer (whose computer I used to play Zork on back in the mid 80's!) used to say about IBM.
It actually stood for-
Interesting
But
Maddening
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Mike A on May 05, 2022, 08:19:53 am
If you spend the money and don't buy a kit, then a 3D printer is a tool that just works with minor maintenance. Same with a CNC machine.

These guys are buying kits and they enjoy the tinkering.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on May 05, 2022, 09:48:34 am
If you spend the money and don't buy a kit, then a 3D printer is a tool that just works with minor maintenance. Same with a CNC machine.

These guys are buying kits and they enjoy the tinkering.

Kit?  What kit?  I did it the hard expensive way and ordered every bolt and piece of wire separately.   :lol
For the one I'm building now, I cut, drilled and tapped the extrusion myself.


Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on May 05, 2022, 06:32:27 pm
So I'm printing parts on the Voron 2.4 and they start looking weird.  The back is perfectly fine, the front is missing starting at a certain layer.
Filaments spool preload might be a little tight, so I loosen it up and start the next print.  Again, printer stops extruding filament toward the front.
Diagnosis = extruder motor wires are probably broken inside the drag chains.   :banghead:

I already went through this with the inductive sensor a month ago, but was hoping it as an isolated case.
I guess the silicone ribbon cable I used just wasn't up to the task. 
So now a complete rewire of the toolhead is required when I'd rather be working on other things.


Again, this is a horrible hobby.   :angry:

EDIT: Fixed after three hours of work.  I had just enough of various color silicone wire to make a new run for the extruder motor.  The only other run from the toolhead using the bad wire was for the induction sensor which already failed and was already replaced a month ago.  Now my "by the book" black and red V2 has a rainbow of wiring colors.

this is what i bought for my chiron hot end.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T4SYVYG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81IeiXCXr5L._SX522_.jpg)

also just for the heater.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0746H2K6G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
(https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71CqKiOvtoL._AC_SX679_.jpg)

have yet to put it in.
too many other things going on now that it's spring.

also that feeling when you are 48 hrs into a print and realize stupid fing cura decided to not put supports on one small 90 degree part.
it's just the mast mount for a ship piece i'm printing vertically.
i can cut the part out of the model, reprint then glue it in but it's going to be a pain to dril it out of the deck
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Howard_Casto on May 05, 2022, 08:29:21 pm
If you spend the money and don't buy a kit, then a 3D printer is a tool that just works with minor maintenance. Same with a CNC machine.

These guys are buying kits and they enjoy the tinkering.

I wish that were that case Mike, but it really isn't.  Even with a top-of-the-line printer the success rate is probably 80% on prints at best.   Filament reacts to moisture, bed adhesion fluctuates, hot ends overheat ect.   Remember we are essentially making a cake by stacking row after row of squirts of icing on top of each other and hoping that it doesn't fall over..... that ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- shouldn't even work so it's a miracle that it even works half of the time exactly as you intend it to. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: talkgeek on May 06, 2022, 04:26:19 am
...honestly I think 80% is a bit low, and that will scare off people getting into this  - its prob closer to 90+% - and my experience is most issues are filament (temp / moisture / bed adhesion) or slicer config - once you have tuned in your printer, ..and yes, (like anything including building arcades) you have to invest time to get the most out of it - the more prints (experience you gain) the less issues.
I have 3 filament printers (and 2 resin printers)
1x Ender3 Pro (basic mod's - BLTouch, SKR-Mini3 board, Dual drive Bowden - my first printer)
2x Ender 3 standards
- one heavily modified including V4.2.7 silent board with direct drive dual extruder, strong bed springs, dual Z axis drive, BLTouch, glassbed etc (tuned to print mostly Ninjaflex TPU)
- the other E3 standard (last purchase) has had very little done to it (bar PFE Capricorn tube, strong bed springs and metal dual gear bowden drive) - and (probably because) I run same brand PLA only on that machine, almost never have issues with it (that aren't caused by me forgetting to add (or remove) supports when slicing)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on May 06, 2022, 09:45:22 am
Thanks for the links nitrogen_widget.  Those are cheaper than what I remember coming up in my searches.  I am wondering if silicone cable is a good choice for inside cable chains though.  It's flexible, but also grabs everything it comes into contact with.  When the first wires to the inductor broke (four conductor silicone ribbon cable), I left them in the cable chain because it was easier than removing them.  This time around I removed them and the other broken wires.  The first set which was no longer connected at the toolhead end had worked itself backwards through the cable chain five or six inches.  I am wondering if the sticky silicone ribbon cables weren't "walking" themselves backwards against each other as the cable chain rolled and unrolled.  If so it would be an argument for $PTFE$ cable.  I already ordered a larger gauge silicone ribbon cable on the current build, but it won't be inside a cable chain.

Printed some brackets to hold the electronics where I would like them to live.  The goal is to have the electronics and motors in a compartment insulated from both the frame and chamber with a couple big fans moving air across them.  Still don't know exactly how that will work, but this lets me visualize how things fit.   A lot less wire will be required.  Still haven't lost any Y axis travel.  Gonna start rewiring & printing parts for the Trident Z axis conversion.  After the Trident conversion is done, I am going to try to incorporate the filament spools inside the frame under where the toolheads park on the sides. 

 

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: RandyT on May 06, 2022, 02:26:44 pm
If you spend the money and don't buy a kit, then a 3D printer is a tool that just works with minor maintenance. Same with a CNC machine.

These guys are buying kits and they enjoy the tinkering.

I wish that were that case Mike, but it really isn't.  Even with a top-of-the-line printer the success rate is probably 80% on prints at best.   Filament reacts to moisture, bed adhesion fluctuates, hot ends overheat ect.   Remember we are essentially making a cake by stacking row after row of squirts of icing on top of each other and hoping that it doesn't fall over..... that ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- shouldn't even work so it's a miracle that it even works half of the time exactly as you intend it to.

Agreed.  These two responses demonstrate the difference between marketing-influenced perception, coupled with seeing the results from someone who knows their machine(s) really, really well and someone who has actually tried to make good prints with any sort of regularity on a machine they own.  A chisel is also a tool which just works with minor maintenance, but if you don't know how to properly sharpen one, the results will show it.

...honestly I think 80% is a bit low, and that will scare off people getting into this  - its prob closer to 90+% - and my experience is most issues are filament (temp / moisture / bed adhesion) or slicer config - once you have tuned in your printer, ..and yes, (like anything including building arcades) you have to invest time to get the most out of it - the more prints (experience you gain) the less issues.

The Ender series are probably the best of the low-cost bed-slingers, but not out of the box unless you get very lucky.  They still really require the upgrades you mentioned to take away a lot of the variables which are just part of the process. And those aren't even worth anything if you don't REALLY understand the slicer software and can make proper adjustments to get rid of the problems.  Even that won't fix all of them, forcing you to go back to your CAD software to make changes to the part to be more conducive to the process and how you want your workflow to go.  Experience is everything with these machines and it transcends the hardware.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on May 08, 2022, 05:44:52 pm
Thanks for the links nitrogen_widget.  Those are cheaper than what I remember coming up in my searches.  I am wondering if silicone cable is a good choice for inside cable chains though.  It's flexible, but also grabs everything it comes into contact with.  When the first wires to the inductor broke (four conductor silicone ribbon cable), I left them in the cable chain because it was easier than removing them.  This time around I removed them and the other broken wires.  The first set which was no longer connected at the toolhead end had worked itself backwards through the cable chain five or six inches.  I am wondering if the sticky silicone ribbon cables weren't "walking" themselves backwards against each other as the cable chain rolled and unrolled.  If so it would be an argument for $PTFE$ cable.  I already ordered a larger gauge silicone ribbon cable on the current build, but it won't be inside a cable chain.

Printed some brackets to hold the electronics where I would like them to live.  The goal is to have the electronics and motors in a compartment insulated from both the frame and chamber with a couple big fans moving air across them.  Still don't know exactly how that will work, but this lets me visualize how things fit.   A lot less wire will be required.  Still haven't lost any Y axis travel.  Gonna start rewiring & printing parts for the Trident Z axis conversion.  After the Trident conversion is done, I am going to try to incorporate the filament spools inside the frame under where the toolheads park on the sides.

as for silicone grabbing
I also have this stuff for my cnc and it's slickery.
i'll either use original wire loom inside the chain or use this stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/100ft-Expandable-Braided-Sleeving-Sleeve/dp/B074GM1PK1/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1O6NPW0S4REVA&keywords=wire+loom&qid=1652046194&sprefix=wire+loom%2Caps%2C107&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExQVRVV0hCVTNBN0hJJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTUwODQzM1QzVDZQSERKOEgwQiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTg4ODcxMTg2WTlPUjhHTDA1MiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

(https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71J3ut33s4L._AC_SX679_.jpg)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on May 08, 2022, 05:52:49 pm
If you spend the money and don't buy a kit, then a 3D printer is a tool that just works with minor maintenance. Same with a CNC machine.

These guys are buying kits and they enjoy the tinkering.

I wish that were that case Mike, but it really isn't.  Even with a top-of-the-line printer the success rate is probably 80% on prints at best.   Filament reacts to moisture, bed adhesion fluctuates, hot ends overheat ect.   Remember we are essentially making a cake by stacking row after row of squirts of icing on top of each other and hoping that it doesn't fall over..... that ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- shouldn't even work so it's a miracle that it even works half of the time exactly as you intend it to.

Agreed.  These two responses demonstrate the difference between marketing-influenced perception, coupled with seeing the results from someone who knows their machine(s) really, really well and someone who has actually tried to make good prints with any sort of regularity on a machine they own.  A chisel is also a tool which just works with minor maintenance, but if you don't know how to properly sharpen one, the results will show it.

...honestly I think 80% is a bit low, and that will scare off people getting into this  - its prob closer to 90+% - and my experience is most issues are filament (temp / moisture / bed adhesion) or slicer config - once you have tuned in your printer, ..and yes, (like anything including building arcades) you have to invest time to get the most out of it - the more prints (experience you gain) the less issues.

The Ender series are probably the best of the low-cost bed-slingers, but not out of the box unless you get very lucky.  They still really require the upgrades you mentioned to take away a lot of the variables which are just part of the process. And those aren't even worth anything if you don't REALLY understand the slicer software and can make proper adjustments to get rid of the problems.  Even that won't fix all of them, forcing you to go back to your CAD software to make changes to the part to be more conducive to the process and how you want your workflow to go.  Experience is everything with these machines and it transcends the hardware.

I pissed away a roll of pet-g on multiple 40-50hr prints (same model) that failed half way through (layer shift) because there was slop in the bearing roller for the bed.
since i replaced it i'm back to back 60+hr prints with zero issue.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: RandyT on May 09, 2022, 09:35:49 am
I pissed away a roll of pet-g on multiple 40-50hr prints (same model) that failed half way through (layer shift) because there was slop in the bearing roller for the bed.
since i replaced it i'm back to back 60+hr prints with zero issue.

Sounds about right.  That's where, I think, most of the waste and difficulty occurs.  Not knowing where the problem is and whether it is an isolated "glitch" somewhere or a genuine machine issue which needs to be addressed.

I had a similar situation on an ET4 where I would print a bed full of small parts and would inevitably get a layer shift or the head would stall and deposit a pile of plastic and then back the filament all the way out of the tube.  Fewer parts on the table and it would usually print fine.  Thinking the firmware was crap, I upgraded it and still had the same issues.  Then after replacing the mainboard after smoking it by shorting the heater with some tweezers due to the aforementioned blobs, I put the latest Anet firmware on it, thinking it might solve the issue (same base machine and MB.) But still the exact same problems.  Wasn't until I found a Marlin replacement firmware that the issues went away and the machine started behaving.  If I didn't have the sense that the firmware was the root of the problems, the "rabbit-hole" would have gone much deeper and been more costly to remedy.  I don't know how the Chinese engineers manage to bork Marlin so badly when they skin the software for touch screens, but somehow they do.  If I were to guess, knowing how they tend to operate, one guy does a shoddy job and it gets copied/modified by everyone, with existing bugs plus potentially new ones, which are never fixed because it almost works well enough to sell the printer.

So there's another bullet point for my list of machines to avoid; anything which doesn't have a reasonably easy path to make it swallow a stock Marlin firmware or a community modded one which has been well-tested.  In the low-cost market, that means sticking with the most popular brands and models, even if they tend to cost a little more than other similar machines.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on May 09, 2022, 09:46:57 pm
I pissed away a roll of pet-g on multiple 40-50hr prints (same model) that failed half way through (layer shift) because there was slop in the bearing roller for the bed.
since i replaced it i'm back to back 60+hr prints with zero issue.

Sounds about right.  That's where, I think, most of the waste and difficulty occurs.  Not knowing where the problem is and whether it is an isolated "glitch" somewhere or a genuine machine issue which needs to be addressed.

I had a similar situation on an ET4 where I would print a bed full of small parts and would inevitably get a layer shift or the head would stall and deposit a pile of plastic and then back the filament all the way out of the tube.  Fewer parts on the table and it would usually print fine.  Thinking the firmware was crap, I upgraded it and still had the same issues.  Then after replacing the mainboard after smoking it by shorting the heater with some tweezers due to the aforementioned blobs, I put the latest Anet firmware on it, thinking it might solve the issue (same base machine and MB.) But still the exact same problems.  Wasn't until I found a Marlin replacement firmware that the issues went away and the machine started behaving.  If I didn't have the sense that the firmware was the root of the problems, the "rabbit-hole" would have gone much deeper and been more costly to remedy.  I don't know how the Chinese engineers manage to bork Marlin so badly when they skin the software for touch screens, but somehow they do.  If I were to guess, knowing how they tend to operate, one guy does a shoddy job and it gets copied/modified by everyone, with existing bugs plus potentially new ones, which are never fixed because it almost works well enough to sell the printer.

So there's another bullet point for my list of machines to avoid; anything which doesn't have a reasonably easy path to make it swallow a stock Marlin firmware or a community modded one which has been well-tested.  In the low-cost market, that means sticking with the most popular brands and models, even if they tend to cost a little more than other similar machines.

yeah.
the only way i found it was by pressing on stuff and tightening fasteners.
again.
I found 4 on the underside for the rail the rollers run on were loose.
then found the bad bearing shift but it only happened when one corner was pushed. i don't push on my printer beds so....

it is amazing how some dude who is a hobbyist can make marlin work better than the manufacturer of the printer aint it?







Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on May 09, 2022, 10:44:57 pm
It doesn't surprise me when it comes to most Chinese manufacturers.  R&D is not their strong suite, hence reliance on hobbyists for design, software, & support.
Cost control is their strong suite and I do appreciate that to an extent.

The youtube channel Clough42 recently did a review of the Quidi i-Fast where the conclusion is that it's a great printer with half assed software.  It has a camera installed inside, but you have to separate camera software to view it.  It is not even integrated into the 3D printer control software.

It's a shame because it seems to have everything I'm trying to accomplish with my current build.  Dual hotends and an 80 degree heated chamber.  He shows huge chunky ABS parts that printed with absolutely no warping.  If I didn't already spend so much building a Voron (and another), I'd be tempted.  Not sure if I'd pull the trigger on it or not though based on the software and concern about future parts availability.

EDIT:  watched the video again and he says the specs claimed a chamber temp lf 65, but it went to 80.  I wonder if the parts it's built from are even rated for continuous duty at 80.  I've beem looking at ceramic heaters.  Some of them come with pc style fans and say they are limited to 65 because of the fans.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on May 16, 2022, 03:04:48 pm
Did some more tinkering....

A few weeks ago it was unseasonably cold and I had a few failed ASA prints.  It was cold in the basement and chamber temps were only getting to the mid 30's (celsius).
So I finally ordered a pair of 50mm fans to tinker with a PTC heater that I had purchased long ago.  Also orderd a 500w personal heater from amazon warehouse for $15, figuring that it might be a simpler and cheaper route.

Supposedly the aluminum fins on these heaters are carrying 110v when they are active.  I couldn't get anything with the meter, but am treating them as live just in case.  There is a cover over the ceramic portions, which may be where the angry pixies are.  PTC is labelled 500w.  Harbor Freight clamp meter says 3 amp, so probably more like 360w.  Fans are 12.6 cfm each and seemed to provide enough airflow.  It took 12 minutes to heat the build chamber of the 350mm Voron V2.4 from 27 degrees to 50 (No other heat source.  Bed wasn't on.)  It took forever to reach 51 degrees, so I think any further increases would have been minimal.  I am not looking to get it hotter than 60-65.  All the small fans in the printer are only rated for those temperatures, and the linear bearings (which have plastic races) aren't rated for a whole lot more. 

There are a lot of considerations to work through before I would feel safe leaving it unattended.  The fan must be on when the heater is, so it would be bad practice to rely on software to control the fan.  The fans I am currently using are 24v.  They could be connected directly to the power supply which would make them run whenever the machine's 110v power switch is on.  Not sure if that is better or worse than using a 110v fan.  If something caused the fans to stop, the area surrounding the PTC must be able to tolerate the heat until a thermal fuse or relay is tripped.  Relay probably isn't the way to go as it would reset itself when it cooled down and then the PTC would just heat up again.  There are probably other things I haven't even thought of yet.

Not sure how it could be incorporated into the 2.4.  Best thing I've come up with is a blower and ductwork attached to the outside of the back panel with the PTC mounted about where the exhaust outlet currently is.

I worked out an idea for the new IDEX build where it could be mounted underneath the chamber in the center with ductwork pulling air from the sides.  I am thinking heat rises in the center.  Cold air falls, but is pushed to the outer edges by the heat rising off the buildplate.  The only problem I could think of with this setup (in addition to crap falling in the ducts), is that on really tall prints the bed will get close to the PTC heater and that might trigger a "bed heater not behaving as expected" automatic shutdown.  Dunno, but I've arranged things so the possibility is there.  The ductwork would be a pain to print.  The picture of it under the IDEX is just of it sitting in place.  Nothing has been done as far as adding it. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on May 16, 2022, 03:32:37 pm
IDEX build has been half apart and back together a couple times.

I had to flip both x steppers back over so they hang under instead of sitting on top.  I do not understand, but I could not get the kinematics to work correctly with them on top.  I reversed motor direction in software, homing direction, physically reversed wiring, etc.  All combinations either lead to having to home toward the front or move 0,0 coordinates to the back.  I gave up and redid the back assembly and belts, etc.   :-\  It is still irking me.

Trident Z axis conversion is complete and everything is working correctly.  It really opens up visual space (and real space) on the sides.  Original plan was to incorporate spool holders on the sides, but there was enough room in the back.  They are far enough back that oozing filament can't drip on them.  Only problem is that the bed has to be all the way up or down to load filament.  Swapping rolls in the middle of a print may not be possible.  The spool holders are mounted with removable t-nuts, so nothing is set in stone.  There is just enough room on the side for a 5lb roll from Keene Village Plastics, but it would be super close to the bed.  I had a piece of textured ABS that was the right size for the bottom panel, so I went ahead and added it.  I will probably change it to aluminum composite later.

Still haven't wired the toolheads.  Not looking forward to it.  The silicone wire I planned to use droops instead of arching like an umbilical.  It will take a lot of wirres and I have not found the perfect toolhead connector yet.  I happened to come across a new BigTreeTech canbus pcb for "introductory pricing" which was not much more than simple "Voron" connector PCBs go for.  So I ordered a pair.  I will be in over my head with the canbus stuff, but it would mean only having to run 4 or 6 wires to the toolhead instead of 17.

I was also tempted by this Biqu hotend kit hat uses a proprietary "USB-C" cable for all the hotend connections.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001995220414.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.6b772e0eARS7X4 (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001995220414.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.6b772e0eARS7X4)
I would have to order a bunch backup cables though, because you probably won't be able to get them in the future.
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/e-AAAOSw6exhZ674/s-l400.jpg)

Not much else is going to happen until I wire the toolheads so the actual IDEX testing can begin.
I am fiddling with the camera mount and lights to avoid working on the wiring.
Was going to start on the insulated enclosure, but all the local big box stores are out of 1/2" polyiso.  Might break down and use 3/4....


Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on May 17, 2022, 05:14:55 pm
So I need basically the simplest thing in the world printed.... more or less this design:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3223106 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3223106)

I had an outlet installed in my gameroom, but it's mounted to a brick wall that was covered with sheetrock.  (God bless the former owners)  So that means about 9/16" of electrical box is exposed between sheetrock and back of the outlet face plate.  (I was made aware of this before the electrician installed it and I told him to do it anyway)

All I need is a rectangular frame that lines up with the edges of my wall plate cover.  The edges have to be narrow because it needs to clear the mounting tabs of the outlet itself.  I made one out of wood but it was too thick and looked dumb.  Right now I've got it covered with a few wraps of black velcro tape.  Your eye passes over it, and it's better than exposed metal, but I'd like something more finished. 

That's a company that makes these rings, but I'd need three of them:

https://www.kyleswitchplates.com/depth-ring-wall-plate-extenders-1-gang/ (https://www.kyleswitchplates.com/depth-ring-wall-plate-extenders-1-gang/)

And the pricing seems absurd.

Anyone?




Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on May 17, 2022, 05:59:39 pm
I can do that...  just get me some dimensions.   :cheers:
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on May 18, 2022, 10:49:00 am
Outside dimensions should be 4.5" tall by 2.75" wide.  I wouldn't make it more than 1/8" thick from outside to inside edge.  And 5/16" tall.  I'll try to get some more precise measurements.

 :cheers:

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on May 18, 2022, 11:20:16 am
Outside dimensions should be 4.5" tall by 2.75" wide.  I wouldn't make it more than 1/8" thick from outside to inside edge.  And 5/16" tall.  I'll try to get some more precise measurements.

 :cheers:

Ok cool
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on May 28, 2022, 07:37:27 pm
Made some progress, but still not pushing plastic yet.

The wiring to the toolheads that I had planned to use was too droopy to work as an umbilical.  After weighing options and wanting to try something not seen before, I ordered a length of 20 conductor motion rated cable from Igus (part no. CF9-02-20).  24awg covers everything but the hotend heater, but there are enough conductors to double up two pairs for the hotend.  I knew the thickness ahead of time ( around 9mm), but it's not quite as flexible as I'd hoped.  It should still be fine with a decent size arch.  I wouldn't use it on anything less rigid than the Voron setup for fear of it making the toolhead flex out of alignment.  In retrospect, multiple runs of simple stranded CAT6 is probably the better way to go.  This is top quality wire though.  Lots of strands and strong. 

I looked at PCBs for toolhead connections, but couldn't find exactly what I was looking for.  Started to mock some things up with generic prototyping boards and realized that what I had in mind was possible without any pcb.  Soldering all those pins took a while, but wasn't too bad.  There isn't much plastic where the male pin passes through, so they would go all wonky when soldering.  Plugging in the connector while soldering kept them in place.   There wasn't nearly as much room for excess wire as I had pictured in my mind, but it fits.  I am still making some design decisions about the cap.

Also made some progress on the chamber heater.  I decided to violate my own rules and have the fans be software controlled.  Otherwise they will either run constantly or only run while the heater is on, meaning they would shut on and off as the heater cycles on and off.  To mitigate the danger of the heater getting out of control, it is held in place by metal parts and has a 120 degree thermal fuse attached to the outside fin.  I may switch to a lower temp fuse, but that is what I had on hand.  Basic idea is that the fans pull air from the edges of the chamber and push it through the heater in the center.  I still need to cut the deck to accommodate the intakes and heater.

Next time around I'll get the toolheads wired so IDEX tinkering will be back on the menu....which is the whole point of this project anyway. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on June 02, 2022, 06:52:55 pm
I was hoping to have a cooler print to demonstrate with, but I'm short on time and won't be able to work on this again until next week.
This is just a test to see if the printer will work the way I intend to use it; using the second toolhead exclusively for support material (currently HIPS filament).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XY28mjUTBFI

Getting to this point was straightforward enough that I didn't expect the start routines and tool changes to be so much of a PITA.  Cura automatically inserts gcode to switch toolheads before my start macro, which is annoying because Klipper will refuse to switch toolheads if the printer hasn't been homed.  If Cura would put it after the start gcode where it belongs, several problems would go away.  (only the first toolhead has a sensor for bed leveling).   I added some stuff to the start macro to temporarily switch to the first toolhead if the second one is active, but for some reason it doesn't behave correctly in all situations.
I could manually change the gcode for every print, but don't consider that or postprocessing scripts to be acceptable solutions.

There are other problems like Klipper only allows you to specify one part cooling fan, despite having two toolheads.  I can specify the second one as a generic fan, but am not sure the commands from Cura will register correctly.  I am sure there is a complex workaround, but for now I am using the multi_pin option in Klipper to run both fans as one.  I'd prefer to get it working as simply as possible before adding layers of complexity.  That's also why I've stayed away from forked builds of Klipper.  I'd rather get it working as good as possible with the standard build first.



Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: RandyT on June 03, 2022, 12:44:43 pm
Very nice!   But man, those extruder swaps definitely need to be moving in tandem.  I would think that two motors on the same axis, with the same feed rate and direction with differing destination points, should never result in a conflict.  Or is this just a safe test?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on June 03, 2022, 04:41:58 pm
Very nice!   But man, those extruder swaps definitely need to be moving in tandem.  I would think that two motors on the same axis, with the same feed rate and direction with differing destination points, should never result in a conflict.  Or is this just a safe test?
Hmmm.... It's just the order of operations in the tool swap macro which I copied and pasted from the Klipper documentation.  The only other Klipper based IDEX system I saw behaves the same way.

What you say makes sense. I will see if I can get them moving simultaneously.  If nothing else, I can crank the travel speed.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on June 09, 2022, 08:56:37 am
Very nice!   But man, those extruder swaps definitely need to be moving in tandem.  I would think that two motors on the same axis, with the same feed rate and direction with differing destination points, should never result in a conflict.  Or is this just a safe test?
Hmmm.... It's just the order of operations in the tool swap macro which I copied and pasted from the Klipper documentation.  The only other Klipper based IDEX system I saw behaves the same way.

What you say makes sense. I will see if I can get them moving simultaneously.  If nothing else, I can crank the travel speed.

Not only was I not able to get both carriages moving at the same time, the switch got even slower once I attempted to print larger objects.
To prevent oozing, Cura drops the hotend temperature of the inactive toolhead to whatever holding temperature is specified in filament properties.
The next time the toolhead is called up, it doesn't move until it comes back up to filament melting temperature.
Easy enough to tweak the holding temperature, but it is one of many things I did not see coming.
Eventually I plan to have some type of plate over the nozzle while it is parked.

Printing seemed to work fine in my short test last week, but now I keep getting layer shifts.  All the belts are tight, but at some point in the print where the toolhead is performing extremely harsh and quick movements, I can hear belts jump teeth and the layer shifts diagonally.  Everything seems tight.  The Y drive motors don't have a flat spot for the pulley's grub screw, but if that were slipping I don't think the belt would make noise.  It's a similar sound to when one of the motors is backwards and fighting the others.  If I slow the print down to 30mm/s with 60mm/s infill, it doesn't happen.  Everything keeps getting slower.  :(  I am going to grind flats on the Y drives and look for mechanical causes.  I will also also swap the drivers around.  Already tried cranking up the current and it made no difference.

The one thing that has worked out well is using HIPS filament as support material.  ABS and ASA hardly stick to it.  It holds well enough to stay in place, but peels right off when pulled.
I wasn't looking forward to buying expensive solvent to dissolve it.  It turns out that solvent will only be necessary in cases where there are internal supports that can't be reached.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: RandyT on June 09, 2022, 01:01:36 pm
I get the feeling that a gcode post-processor is in your future.  Filament drool is always going to be an issue with a dual hot-end setup, which means cool-downs, heat-ups, primes and maybe even nozzle wipes.  All of which introduce slow-downs. The X1 Carbon (coming soon) actually swaps filaments on the fly, with purging and wiping steps between.  It's a very fast Core X-Y printer, so the swaps tend to be absorbed somewhat into the overall print time, but at the cost of wasted material.  I'd suspect that leaving the hot-ends up to temp, with a short purge/prime and wiping blade might be the best bet for swaps.  If the gcode interpreter sees the extruder assembly motion as X1 and X2, one would think that substituting something like G0 F<feedrate> X1<park position> X2<print position> would get them moving in tandem.  The PP would need to be able to identify a swap, and set the positions accordingly, depending on which head was doing the printing. 

The bright side of this is that the world would be your oyster once you had a framework for doing this, as any custom actions (wiping, priming, etc.) could be wedged into the same space.

As for your other issue, be careful of stepper motor resonance.  Not saying that this is your issue, but if you are operating in the resonance band for the motors, it could cause problems.  Decreasing or even increasing the speeds could help in this case.  Honestly though, it sort of sounds like an acceleration/jerk problem.  Unfortunately, if that's what's going on, the only way other than reducing the overall speed of the movements is to reduce the weight and/or stiffen some of your components.  While I like the idea of these massive, heavy duty machines, I think they start to get so large and heavy that some of the pitfalls of CNC routers start to appear on them.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on June 09, 2022, 01:24:45 pm
I followed a couple people trying to use filament swaps for dissolvable supports, but they claimed that the parts turned out weak due to contamination from the support material no matter how much they purged.
They were engineers so I assume then knew what they were talking about, which is why I went down the IDEX path.
The Qidi iFast looks to have what I want, but I can't spend that much on another printer after building the Vorons.

I ground flats on the Y motors and added a shim behind where the belts are attached to make them tighter.
Just did a test print and had a shift and a shift back!  :lol

I think it is something to do with the Y motors.  It just dawned on me that both are running off the same driver, so they may be starving for power.
That and they are unknown scrap motors pulled out of an original monoprice mini select.
I upped the vref voltage to what the driver board can handle and am giving it another go.

If that doesn't work, I'll put them on separate drivers.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: RandyT on June 09, 2022, 03:04:20 pm
I followed a couple people trying to use filament swaps for dissolvable supports, but they claimed that the parts turned out weak due to contamination from the support material no matter how much they purged.
They were engineers so I assume then knew what they were talking about, which is why I went down the IDEX path.

This is where a wiper comes in (guessing they didn't add one).  A thin piece of silicone at the edge of the print volume and over which the nozzle must pass would go a long way to counteract drool contamination.

Quote
I think it is something to do with the Y motors.  It just dawned on me that both are running off the same driver, so they may be starving for power.

Believe it or not, that makes resonance even more likely the culprit.  Even though it is done often on the Z-axis, it's considered bad practice to connect two motors to a single driver.  With small and seldom moves it can be gotten away with, but when the motors resonate they can fight each other as they will not be resonating in sync with one another.

Or it could be a power issue :)  Either way, giving each motor it's own driver would be a good step to take.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on June 09, 2022, 03:09:22 pm
I messed around with power output with not much variance.  I got pretty honed in on the layer it was happening and there was a distinct "thud" sound every time.

Disconnected one of the Y motors and it prints fine with no layer shift.

Next step is to put it on a separate driver and limit switch, which was the eventual plan anyway.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on June 09, 2022, 04:24:08 pm
Believe it or not, that makes resonance even more likely the culprit.  Even though it is done often on the Z-axis, it's considered bad practice to connect two motors to a single driver.  With small and seldom moves it can be gotten away with, but when the motors resonate they can fight each other as they will not be resonating in sync with one another.

Or it could be a power issue :)  Either way, giving each motor it's own driver would be a good step to take.

Putting them on separate drivers seems to have done the trick.   :cheers:
Motors seem a lot noisier.  I'll turn the voltages back down.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on September 07, 2022, 05:27:29 pm
I just broke down and spent way too much money on a professionally made wall plate for the gameroom.  Looks finished now, though.

Who can print this:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3407862 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3407862)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on September 07, 2022, 05:47:49 pm
I just broke down and spent way too much money on a professionally made wall plate for the gameroom.  Looks finished now, though.

Who can print this:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3407862 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3407862)
Do you want it in yellow, red, green, blue, gray, or black PLA?


Scott
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on September 07, 2022, 08:56:44 pm
What’s the cheapest?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on September 07, 2022, 09:35:55 pm
What’s the cheapest?
No worries.  It's on the house.   :cheers:

Which color(s) do you want?
- From what I've read, gray is a tiny bit weaker than the other colors, otherwise same same.

I assume you're still at the same mailing address, right? (Houston, TX  77071)


Scott
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on September 07, 2022, 09:46:03 pm
PM sent

 :cheers:
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: eds1275 on September 25, 2022, 11:38:36 pm
I recently picked up an Anycubic Kobra. I have made an army of house hippos, the default owl test project, a penis raptor for a friend (look it up... wtf?) and am now working on some X-Men stuff for my daughter's Halloween costume (she's gonna be storm!) and mine (Mr. Freeze from Batman) plus some coasters with the logo of my friend's business on them. She makes all my swag and clothing for my company (t-shirts, key rings, stickers,  lanyards, pens, even a stencil so I can label my gear quickly.)

I've also designed a bunch of cookie cutters since the colder weather is coming and we will be doing more baking.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on September 26, 2022, 05:42:59 am
Awesome!  I'm glad you finally jumped in.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on September 26, 2022, 02:16:16 pm
My daughter is taking a History of Film class and fell in love with a specific genre. I am printing a replica of a famous movie prop and will post it here when done.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on September 26, 2022, 08:40:44 pm
I recently picked up an Anycubic Kobra. I have made an army of house hippos, the default owl test project, a penis raptor for a friend (look it up... wtf?) and am now working on some X-Men stuff for my daughter's Halloween costume (she's gonna be storm!) and mine (Mr. Freeze from Batman) plus some coasters with the logo of my friend's business on them. She makes all my swag and clothing for my company (t-shirts, key rings, stickers,  lanyards, pens, even a stencil so I can label my gear quickly.)

I've also designed a bunch of cookie cutters since the colder weather is coming and we will be doing more baking.

nice.
I have the Vyper and the Chiron.
Chiron is in a pile waiting for winter to work on.

I did print a fallout power armor helmet for my kid for Halloween on the Vyper though.
it had to be printed in 8 pieces (chiron would of handled it whole)  :banghead:. i tried using a 3d pen to fill the seams and it worked ok but using the squeeze epoxy from home depot and a business card cut to the curve of the helmet is working way better.

i'm also thinking of making the pip boy for him.
i've got a touch screen, rpi zero 2, and all the hardware needed to bolt it together.
he mainly wants it to play the fallout music while he's out with friends.
so i may attempt this without telling him so he isn't let down.

back up is $30 fake pip-boy that doesn't do anything but light up from the spirit store.
but i can give him a BT speaker and he can load the music on his phone.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on September 28, 2022, 06:34:01 pm
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220928/5ae7dd09ad654eeb985a377023581b25.jpg)
Here you go - printed in 3 parts to make an exact size replica.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220928/44415d7857b547c08f3517421f6ae0bf.jpg)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: bobbyb13 on September 29, 2022, 02:21:26 am
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220928/5ae7dd09ad654eeb985a377023581b25.jpg)
Here you go - printed in 3 parts to make an exact size replica.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220928/44415d7857b547c08f3517421f6ae0bf.jpg)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Holy ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---!
Love that.
How much does the little beast weigh?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: yotsuya on September 29, 2022, 12:19:56 pm
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220928/5ae7dd09ad654eeb985a377023581b25.jpg)
Here you go - printed in 3 parts to make an exact size replica.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220928/44415d7857b547c08f3517421f6ae0bf.jpg)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Holy ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---!
Love that.
How much does the little beast weigh?
It’s actually pretty light, because it’s hollow. It was printed in three pieces, and I plan to fill it with sand before I seal it up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on September 29, 2022, 04:55:00 pm
That would be a good candidate for printing in ABS and acetone smoothing.  It would look even more original.
EDIT: Andy shiny!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on October 01, 2022, 11:03:27 am
That would be a good candidate for printing in ABS and acetone smoothing.  It would look even more original.
EDIT: Andy shiny!

5% octo infill, twice as many walls, heat lamp over the printer.
wait, doesn't he have an enclosure?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on October 06, 2022, 06:37:44 pm
so fallout helmet is just too ginormous for my kid.
he looks like a bobble head.
so I measured his head and measured the helmet i printed and i'm scaling down to 90% and reprinting.

edit:
got most of the helmet printed and glued (badly) at the smaller size and we have a winner.
i'm just bad at gluing but i think i can fix that spot with some epoxy filler and liquid steel putty.
I just could not get those sides in the middle to touch no matter how hard i pushed.
this was done in PET-G with a .4mm nozzle at .28 layer height to shave a few hrs off print time.







Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on November 01, 2022, 05:40:51 pm
not exactly cos-play quality.
but he got a lot of compliments at school and the bad resin fill job doesn't show up as much in person.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: gamepimp on February 09, 2023, 08:09:49 pm
So it looks like there's a new kid in town. Has anyone been following the Bambu Lab printers? From what I've seen on YouTube and social media they are built very well and come fully assembled, are fairly affordable for what they offer, and can print in multiple colors at crazy speeds. I have a Creality CR-10S Pro which is a nice printer and has served me well, but I'm really tempted to pick up the X1 Carbon to replace it. The only downside is that the bed is slightly smaller. If anyone happens to have one or knows someone who does it would be cool to get some feedback.

https://youtu.be/Eci4iFoyoS4 (https://youtu.be/Eci4iFoyoS4)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: RandyT on February 10, 2023, 01:27:23 pm
I was pretty impressed when I first saw these printers.  Looks like a lot of engineering and capability for the buck. 

That said, nothing is perfect. While I have no specific experience with the printers, there seems to be some disgruntled owners who don't seem to be happy with the carbon fiber rods.  While they are light and probably the very thing which gets them to move so quickly, I have my doubts about their suitability for a wear surface over stainless. 

Could be a non-concern, but if I were you, I would look into this by gathering comments from long-time users, and decide whether or not this is a real thing before deciding.  There must be something to it, as the company has released a "how to clean" video for them.  This makes me concerned that the surface is wearing and gunking up the bearing, leading to jams.  But again, who knows for sure?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: gamepimp on February 12, 2023, 09:52:02 pm
I was pretty impressed when I first saw these printers.  Looks like a lot of engineering and capability for the buck. 

That said, nothing is perfect. While I have no specific experience with the printers, there seems to be some disgruntled owners who don't seem to be happy with the carbon fiber rods.  While they are light and probably the very thing which gets them to move so quickly, I have my doubts about their suitability for a wear surface over stainless. 

Could be a non-concern, but if I were you, I would look into this by gathering comments from long-time users, and decide whether or not this is a real thing before deciding.  There must be something to it, as the company has released a "how to clean" video for them.  This makes me concerned that the surface is wearing and gunking up the bearing, leading to jams.  But again, who knows for sure?

I have seen many comments on Reddit about the need to clean those carbon fiber rods when prints start looking bad. They must gunk up regularly. If it’s the actual rod wearing down that could be a huge problem long term. I’m not a big fan of being an early adopter for this very reason and will probably wait until these printers have been out for at least a year before I decide whether or not to pick one up.

FWIW the Prusa XL also looks like another promising new printer, but details on it have been pretty limited so far. Would be nice if it ended up printing as fast as the Bambu printers…
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on March 01, 2023, 07:16:02 pm
bought a refurb Longer lk5 pro.
300x300 bed.
won't finish a print.
they sent me new parts including a mainboard.
it just stopped 20hrs in. acting like it lost power.
it didn't.
then it does it again a few hrs later and each time it does it it takes less time until it can't print more than a few mins before claiming it lost power.
feels like a heat issue.

according to the FB groups Longer has really poor quality control on their mainboards and it took multiple mainboards sent to them before the problem was fixed.
i bought it just before chinese NY so i've had a printer for months that doesn't work.
waiting weeks for each new part.

was going to just send it back then decided to grab a SKR-PICO and convert it to Klipper.
I have the pico loaded with klipper.
have the pico default config and have a lk5 pro config from the manufacturer.
going to add the printer specific stuff to the default config and then start testing running it off an old laptop with linux.

everything should be fine. ;D
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on March 01, 2023, 09:26:21 pm
7 years later and none of you has a 3D printer that works.

Peak BYOAC.

 :applaud:
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: HaRuMaN on March 02, 2023, 12:21:52 pm
Mine is still working  :cheers:

Prusa FTW
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on March 02, 2023, 07:30:56 pm
I have multiple 3d printers that work.
they are just too small for some of the models i want to print.



Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: RandyT on March 02, 2023, 09:58:40 pm
I have multiple 3d printers that work.

Yeah, nobody complains when things are working like they are supposed to.  I think I've put 10lbs of filament through my upgraded Ender3 without a bad print...well, at least none which were the printer's fault. :)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on March 03, 2023, 07:51:31 am
No pics = no prints
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: RandyT on March 03, 2023, 11:53:01 pm
No pics = no prints

Buckeyes fan?   :lol
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on March 06, 2023, 07:43:34 pm
No pics = no prints

I've been printing up 15mm and 28/32 mm terrain pieces for tabletop games to sell.
these are 15mm scale.

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on March 06, 2023, 08:59:25 pm
Can you print me a set of blue ships for the table top game Plunder?  I may resort to spray paint.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on March 07, 2023, 08:26:26 pm
Can you print me a set of blue ships for the table top game Plunder?  I may resort to spray paint.

can't find a model specifically but i could probably clear the deck on this and add some holes.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16419

i'd need size of holes and dimensions of the ships.
need to see how the model scales.

Also, i take it the game is decent?
was looking at it a while back.


Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: RandyT on March 19, 2023, 02:12:47 pm
No pics = no prints

You asked for it  :lol

So I picked up a relatively cheap-ish S20 Ultra with a cracked back for a DIY handheld experiment.  There's a couple of screen digs, but they aren't visible with the screen on.  Everything else was in perfect working condition, including the amazing 6.9" OLED screen, which is bright and has zero burn-in, and the fancy cameras.  But due to the splintery glass cracks on the back I needed to put a case on it.  Unfortunately, even the thinnest one I could find which would still even out the camera hump, made it too thick to fit the channels in the BT controller I had laying around from a years-gone-by AliExpress Winter sale.  Even though it worked, it looked and felt janky, and I was worried the S20 would fall out.

3D printing to the rescue.

I'm especially proud of this one.  Not only is it the largest thing I've printed to date, bed-width wise, it was "one and done" from design to print, which is something which almost always eludes me.  Now, everything is solidly locked into place and it feels like a one-piece unit when assembled.  The fancy cameras are even still clear and the buttons on the game controller can be used to snap photos. :)

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on March 19, 2023, 08:55:31 pm
So I picked up a relatively cheap-ish S20 Ultra with a cracked back for a DIY handheld experiment. 

Check out ReDream emulator if you haven't already.
PPSSPP as well, but I assume you already know about that one.

Since I'm posting in this thread....pic of sink trays.
(kitchen is WIP, hence the melamine scrap countertop.)
EDIT: Also printed jigs to mount the cabinet hardware.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on March 19, 2023, 09:46:48 pm
so lk5pro psu replacement was a bust.
going with klipper and skr pico main board.
rpi zero 2 will be the brains along with a 3.5" rpi touch screen.

I have a rock64 i was going to use but i could only get the display on the screen without touch which honestly i'd be better off using an old tablet.

so installing klipper now on the zero 2. have klipper installed on the pico.
have pico default config and have a klipper config file from longer.
so i'll match pins up to function and start with the mesh leveling.
I do have a real BLtouch which bolts on but..babysteps.
I get good adhesion doing the manual leveling.
will update as i have time to work on this.


also..umm bought a sidewinder X2 with 300x300 bed and direct drive.
it was on sale.
i need a large printer now to get some of my models done so...
it prints really nice, has auto leveling with some bltouch type thing.
i had to get it close manually then i ran the auto and its printing great also. :)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: RandyT on March 20, 2023, 02:52:39 pm
....pic of sink trays.

That's a slick use of otherwise wasted space.  Nice work!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on May 13, 2023, 01:05:45 pm
I ordered a returned aquila x2 from allie express.
they sent me an ender 3 pro.
the carriage was bent.
the extruder was missing
the spool holder was missing.
one of the limit switches was shot.
someone had also trapped the fan wires between the housing and the carriage and cut them/shorted them out.
so the main board cooling fan and part cooling fan were dead because of on board fuse.

I complained and they sent me what i actually ordered free.

sooo i bought an upgraded ender 3 board for $35 and the spool holder for $11.
i had extra steppers and metal extruders.
i  also ordered a cheap 3d touch for $12 and printed up a new hot end cover with dual blower fans for cooling and 3dtouch holder and added a magnetic sheet and switched to a .6 nozzle.
it prints pretty good.
i also added silicon bushings in place of the bed springs.
i haven't tried to assemble the X2.

i just added a pei sheet and z braces to my sidewinder.

i'm working on designing mounting brackets for the skr pico and the rock64 to mount inside the longer.
and when i say working on it i have someone else's bracket models and planning to just merge them and add tabs so it can mount in the case.
I also have the stuff to build and input shaper though i'm not trying to go crazy on the speed. i'd settle for 100 or so mm/s perimeter speed with no ghosting.
i'll probably need better part cooling also.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on May 21, 2023, 10:23:17 am
the stepper from my parts bin i used for the extruder on my ender 3 pro stopped working.
new one is coming.
also the cooler i printed up never really fit properly and the fans were flexed a little and now after a few weeks straight of printing are going bad.
so i printed up what i hope is a better cooling bracket.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: eds1275 on May 25, 2023, 09:43:49 am
I've been using mine non stop for like 6 months, maybe more now. I print a lot of stupid crap but also lots of practical things, a lens hood for my canon 100-400L, a handle for my table saw fence, boobs for my lego. Working on my he-man halloween costume and my daughter's she-ra. Some arcade parts, specifically a mount for the sensor bar for my ultimarc guns.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on May 25, 2023, 06:47:50 pm
I've been using mine non stop for like 6 months, maybe more now. I print a lot of stupid crap but also lots of practical things, a lens hood for my canon 100-400L, a handle for my table saw fence, boobs for my lego. Working on my he-man halloween costume and my daughter's she-ra. Some arcade parts, specifically a mount for the sensor bar for my ultimarc guns.

nice.
i've probably burned through 20 rolls of filament on some of my printers since last fall.
eventually they do end up needing maint.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: JudgeRob on August 09, 2023, 08:10:59 pm
Dang Badmouth, that dual extruder looks very ambitious!  That will be awesome when you get it working. 

So I have been lightly rocking the Anet A8 for a few years now and am looking at some of the high speed units to upgrade to.  Any thought on these two?

Creatlity K1:
https://store.creality.com/products/k1-speedy-3d-printer?sscid=81k7_aolwq&

Bambu P1S:
https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/p1s?variant=41211805696136&sscid=81k7_aof80

Kind of pricey but with those speeds and enclosure, it seems like they could be a good deal.  I am trying to find out more about the K1...
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on August 09, 2023, 09:42:54 pm
Dang Badmouth, that dual extruder looks very ambitious!  That will be awesome when you get it working. 

So I have been lightly rocking the Anet A8 for a few years now and am looking at some of the high speed units to upgrade to.  Any thought on these two?

Creatlity K1:
https://store.creality.com/products/k1-speedy-3d-printer?sscid=81k7_aolwq&

Bambu P1S:
https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/p1s?variant=41211805696136&sscid=81k7_aof80

Kind of pricey but with those speeds and enclosure, it seems like they could be a good deal.  I am trying to find out more about the K1...

I'd lean toward the Bambu.  It just seems more plug and play with less fiddling.  The question is will parts be available when everything wears out in two years?  Probably yes. 
Just in case..... are you going to get your money's worth if it only lasts two years?  If so then it's a no brainer.
Belts, print surfaces, wiring, bearings, sometimes heaters all start giving out after a couple years if you enclose them and run them a lot.  It doesn't matter which brand.
Personally I'd get the P1P and slap some ugly polyiso sheet insulation on the sides and clear acrylic on the front.

It's getting harder to justify building my own.  I threw extrusion offcuts and spare parts into a "Tiny-M" which is basically a Voron V0 with bigger extrusions.  It was going well until it came time to order the rails, some extra hardware, & bed/bed heater.  I'm going to end up with $200 in a junk build when a brand new V0 kit can be had for as little as $400 and a Bambu P1P for as little as $530.

All the issues on my IDEX got worked through and it is both fast and reliable. After I updated it from a Voron 1.8 to a Trident, progress started being made on the more official "Tridex" and a good number of people are building those now.  It works well and is reliable, but the 250mm bed keeps coming up short for the things I want to print so I'll be transplanting it into a bigger frame soon.
The size of the bed is an even bigger issue now that copy and mirror modes have been added to Klipper firmware.

I did some beta testing for it:
https://youtu.be/XteEZ3Ho3T0
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: JudgeRob on August 10, 2023, 10:09:32 pm
Thanks for your thoughts.  I am going to take a closer look at the Bambu.  IDK why but it seems to have a larger backing behind it.  I just saw a video showing the "poop chute" on the backside of it.   :laugh:  It's pretty incredible how it self cleans the nozzle and takes care of so much of the prep stuff I thought would always be part of setting up a print.  So cool to watch the evolution of these things. 

Your video is pretty sweet with the dual extruders.  It looks like they are racing each other.  I think you said one might be used for dissolvable supports?  That would be a dream man.  I hate removing those ---smurfing--- supports!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: JudgeRob on August 12, 2023, 08:39:12 pm
I think I am going with the Bambu P1S.  It looks incredible.  Now I have to decide on the AMS add on.  I was hoping it would be more like $150 instead of $250, but it looks like it would be really convenient. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on September 10, 2023, 09:35:36 pm
I have everything i need to rebuild 2 dead printers into klipper machines.
except time.
longer lk5 that i don't even want to go faster than 100.
a dead vyper where the strain guage died and i decided i was done with that nonsense.
printed up the stealth burner head.
have a new print head board to accept bltouch.
have an orange pi with klipper installed.

just need time to do it.

but now there is the 7" touch screen with klipper installed that can just replace the SBC.
not the creality one, the other one that is opensource.

but i still have two perfectly runing printers, one that needs a new thermister and one that i'm assembling so i don't feel pressed for time.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on October 01, 2023, 03:14:46 pm
Which one of you beautiful men can print the ones for megadrive / genesis 2?

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on October 01, 2023, 04:27:47 pm
Which one of you beautiful men can print the ones for megadrive / genesis 2?
FIFY.   :lol

1. Plain, accented, or both?

2. What color(s)?  Black, red, green, yellow, gray, blue (PLA) or white (PETG)


Scott
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on October 01, 2023, 08:00:48 pm
Accented black, kthx.


(Maybe one of both?)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on October 01, 2023, 09:33:40 pm
Accented black, kthx.

(Maybe one of both?)
Accented and plain in black PLA.

Might take a few days to print and prep them for shipment.

I'll PM you the tracking data once they're on the way.   :cheers:


Scott
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: eds1275 on October 03, 2023, 12:15:17 pm
I have a big exciting win for myself, courtesy of 3d printing.

Value Village! $7.99, a Sears Craftsman router table missing all accessories. I printed a plate that I can slide my small router (Milwaukee Fuel cordless) into, making it tool-less to add and remove. I printed a vacuum splitter so that my mini vacuum can attach to both the router dust port and the dust collector up top I printed, and some feet so that when I mount this to a board it will lock into my Packout tool boxes.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Fursphere on October 03, 2023, 06:07:54 pm
I think I am going with the Bambu P1S.  It looks incredible.  Now I have to decide on the AMS add on.  I was hoping it would be more like $150 instead of $250, but it looks like it would be really convenient.

After this:  https://www.theverge.com/2023/8/16/23064592/bambu-print-asleep-cloud-outage 

I wouldn't touch a Bambu.   Always connected, forced cloud service usage?   Nope.  Count me out. 

I started with a generic Chinese printer (Tevo Tornado), and then after I learned my lesson I bought a Prusa MK3s.  Should have started with the Prusa. 

it.just.works
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on October 03, 2023, 08:49:45 pm
I have a big exciting win for myself, courtesy of 3d printing.

Value Village! $7.99, a Sears Craftsman router table missing all accessories. I printed a plate that I can slide my small router (Milwaukee Fuel cordless) into, making it tool-less to add and remove. I printed a vacuum splitter so that my mini vacuum can attach to both the router dust port and the dust collector up top I printed, and some feet so that when I mount this to a board it will lock into my Packout tool boxes.
Nice.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: RandyT on October 05, 2023, 02:36:06 pm
I wouldn't touch a Bambu.   Always connected, forced cloud service usage?

I always imagine that 3D printer cloud servers are located at Chinese injection molding companies, where their motto is "Your prototype is our new product!"  But that might just be paranoia talking.

If something needs an unnecessary network connection for it to even work....No way, no how.  That's not paranoia, just good sense.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: lilshawn on October 05, 2023, 07:08:24 pm
just throwing my hat in the ring... just bought an Ender 3 pro... it went on pretty cheap so I got it.

after printing a few things to make it better/more reliable and adding a sheet of 1mm glass under the magnetic bed... it's pretty good and reliable to print with.

gonna update the firmware so i can use mesh leveling, then i might be able to ditch the glass sheet.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: lanman31337 on October 17, 2023, 02:55:26 pm
just throwing my hat in the ring... just bought an Ender 3 pro... it went on pretty cheap so I got it.

after printing a few things to make it better/more reliable and adding a sheet of 1mm glass under the magnetic bed... it's pretty good and reliable to print with.

gonna update the firmware so i can use mesh leveling, then i might be able to ditch the glass sheet.

Get a BLTouch or CRtouch if you don't have one already.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: lilshawn on October 17, 2023, 04:54:55 pm
Get a BLTouch or CRtouch if you don't have one already.

Yeah i'm going to get a CRtouch for it as well as a dual Z drive. i haven't decided on a dual z motor kit, or the kits that transfer the Z from the one side to the other with a belt. both seem to have their own advantages and disadvantages.

updating the firmware to have mesh bed leveling really improved things. I also hard mounted the bed instead of using the adjustable spring mounts... since i was using a better leveling method than the original one point level there was no need for it.

just as a side note, why is getting marlin firmware such a pain in the absolute ass? people talking about building their own firmware and having to download like 3 programs and modifying cfg files and editing code and removing remarks and adding remarks to take stuff out.... crap, like, I'm not new to computers and microcontrollers and stuff, but this is another level of ridiculous. is it so hard to have a bunch of the mainline 3d printer firmware just available for download? yeah if you roll your own 3d printer and need a custom deal then sure... download the main marlin package and modify all the stuff and build your own... that is expected... but crealty, elgoo, prusa? the bigger names out there? all have to deal with this? man. i can see how people brick their stuff if they aren't careful.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on October 17, 2023, 05:55:04 pm
This is why people make such a big deal about Klipper.  Everything is in a plain text printer.cfg file.  Want to change something? Just change the cfg file in the web UI (mainsail or fluidd) and click "save and restart".  All it does is stop and restart the klipper program running on the pi.  No other programs or devices need to be restarted.  It it usually ready to go again in about 8 seconds and if you screwed something up it tells you where the problem is.  Sending the file to print via the webui spoils you as well. 

If you have any unused raspberry pies or spare PCs laying around, check out a tutorial on  installing the mainsailOS image.

I just built another printer out of spare parts and it is being run by a pi zero v1.3.  Couldn't get any wifi dongles to work with it, so using a usb hub with ethernet adapter built in.   I could spend $15 on a pi zero 2w, but meh.   It prints fine, but the zero isn't powerful enough for a webcam or input shaping.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on October 17, 2023, 06:07:44 pm
Did a quick search & the first tutorials to come up look outdated.
This one looks good, at least the first few minutes I watched.
https://youtu.be/N41JY1Gukuk?si=KWiJxOzJbPbMA2hD
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: lilshawn on October 17, 2023, 08:47:43 pm
I have heard of klipper, but i know nothing about it. kinda seems like it just plugs in via usb and sends gcode directly through to the controller... then you just send your slices to the pi instead?

i do have a pi zero w kicking around... but apparently according to klipper there isn't enough processing power there to do it (well anyways)... i may just try it anyway and see if it ends up being an issue.

i do have some actual real mini ITX computers i could maybe use one of those. something to look into i guess... maybe a project for next weekend if i don't end up busy anywhere else.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: RandyT on October 18, 2023, 01:53:00 pm
You may want to look into Octoprint.  There's also a 3rd party fork for Android.  I bought a number of LG G6 "retail demo" phones and flashed new firmware on them.  For about 30$ per printer, it adds WiFi, a web interface, a touch screen and a webcam.  Not sure if it will solve firmware issues, but if the printer works properly with G-CODE, you should be able to post-process your files to do whatever you need to.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: gamepimp on October 18, 2023, 04:11:20 pm
I have heard of klipper, but i know nothing about it. kinda seems like it just plugs in via usb and sends gcode directly through to the controller... then you just send your slices to the pi instead?

i do have a pi zero w kicking around... but apparently according to klipper there isn't enough processing power there to do it (well anyways)... i may just try it anyway and see if it ends up being an issue.

i do have some actual real mini ITX computers i could maybe use one of those. something to look into i guess... maybe a project for next weekend if i don't end up busy anywhere else.

I just picked up a Creality K1 that uses Klipper firmware. You can use a web interface like Fluidd or Mainsail to access the firmware configuration file. You basically open it up like a text document, make whatever change you want, save, and restart the printer. It can't get much easier to tweak things. A lot of folks will use a Sonic Pad or Big Tree Tech Pad to add Klipper to a machine currently running Marlin. The pad does the processing and tells the controller board how to move the printer. Plus you get a nice big screen for your printer. Win-win. :) Klipper gives you the ability to adjust pressure advance and input shaping with an accelerometer. There are also lots of other calibrations that can be done through macros. It certainly has made fine tuning my printer a much easier process.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: lilshawn on October 18, 2023, 06:37:30 pm
You may want to look into Octoprint.  There's also a 3rd party fork for Android.  I bought a number of LG G6 "retail demo" phones and flashed new firmware on them.  For about 30$ per printer, it adds WiFi, a web interface, a touch screen and a webcam.  Not sure if it will solve firmware issues, but if the printer works properly with G-CODE, you should be able to post-process your files to do whatever you need to.

I just picked up a Creality K1 that uses Klipper firmware. You can use a web interface like Fluidd or Mainsail to access the firmware configuration file. You basically open it up like a text document, make whatever change you want, save, and restart the printer. It can't get much easier to tweak things. A lot of folks will use a Sonic Pad or Big Tree Tech Pad to add Klipper to a machine currently running Marlin. The pad does the processing and tells the controller board how to move the printer. Plus you get a nice big screen for your printer. Win-win. :) Klipper gives you the ability to adjust pressure advance and input shaping with an accelerometer. There are also lots of other calibrations that can be done through macros. It certainly has made fine tuning my printer a much easier process.

I got lots of android phones and pads and stuff kicking around... i'll have to look into this.  :cheers: thanks <3
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on October 18, 2023, 08:01:20 pm
kinda seems like it just plugs in via usb and sends gcode directly through to the controller... then you just send your slices to the pi instead?

i do have a pi zero w kicking around... but apparently according to klipper there isn't enough processing power there to do it (well anyways)... i may just try it anyway and see if it ends up being an issue.

Yep, the pi handles the heavy lifting and sends basic commands to the control board.  Only downside is that the commands are sent in small batches, so aside from hitting the kill switch (which is instant) a command won't be processed until the last batch has finished.  It's only noticeable if you know to look for it.

The pi also runs a web ui which can be accessed through any device on the home network with a web browser.

A pi zero will work, it just won't have enough power to send a webcam stream or use the input shaper function.
The input shaper function allows the printer to run faster by avoiding resonant frequencies that cause artifacts at higher speeds.  The more aggressive settings will round corners a bit, but the settings are up to you.

There is a plugin called Klipperscreen that will allow you to use the old android phones as screens, but I haven't used it.
I am happy with the web interface and have started building printers without screens.

Just install mainsailOS on the pi zero w via Raspberry Pi imager and poke around the web ui.  That will give you a feel for it without committing much time.
I did it on an original Pi zero and it worked.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: lanman31337 on October 19, 2023, 01:47:58 pm
Those of you with an ender printer - I use this site here for my firmware - https://marlin.crc.id.au/ (https://marlin.crc.id.au/)

Also, I use Octoprint on of all things, a 30ish dollar android tv box. https://www.amazon.com/T95-Mini-TUREWELL-cortex-A53-Streaming/dp/B07SM8WTBT/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=1KAW4SK9EUEJN&keywords=android+tv+box+t95+mini&qid=1697737466&sprefix=android+tv+box+t95+mini%2Caps%2C143&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/T95-Mini-TUREWELL-cortex-A53-Streaming/dp/B07SM8WTBT/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=1KAW4SK9EUEJN&keywords=android+tv+box+t95+mini&qid=1697737466&sprefix=android+tv+box+t95+mini%2Caps%2C143&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1)

You can load armbian onto it, latest firmware here - https://forum.inovato.com/post/where-can-i-get-the-quadra-firmware-12449387 (https://forum.inovato.com/post/where-can-i-get-the-quadra-firmware-12449387)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: lilshawn on October 19, 2023, 07:10:06 pm
Those of you with an ender printer - I use this site here for my firmware - https://marlin.crc.id.au/ (https://marlin.crc.id.au/)

yeah, that's who i got mine from.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: lilshawn on November 06, 2023, 02:32:53 pm
does this look like it's just under-extruding? or something else?

freshly opened new filament, it says 210 =/- 15 degrees so i'm printing at 200 (like all my other stuff). 100% infill so it's not hollow.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on November 06, 2023, 05:26:43 pm
does this look like it's just under-extruding? or something else?
Hard to tell on a print like that.  Could be the extrusion rate.  Could be the slicer trying to deal with the varying widths/angles of the model.  Could be the angle.  Could be the nozzle size is too large/small.   :dunno

Try printing one of these with the settings mentioned in the "Thing Details" tab.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3695183 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3695183)

(https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/06/47/a9/d1/51/82341a6c6f03e3af261a95ba81050c0a_display_large.jpg)

There are also a number of temperature/bridging/stringing test prints on Thingiverse so you can find if that 200 degree setting + extrusion rate + retraction setting is ideal for your printer/filament or not. (not sure which print to recommend)


Scott
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: lilshawn on November 06, 2023, 07:52:06 pm
i tried a couple different flow tests and it seems to be set properly (IE the best looking one is the 100% setting my printer currently has as default)

normal flat areas with the diagonal fill look fine with this filament... could just be how the printer/slicer is doing the last layer in this particular item since they are thin?
maybe applying a perimeters overlap might help...

so much learning curve to this 3d printing.  :o
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on November 06, 2023, 11:39:06 pm
i tried a couple different flow tests and it seems to be set properly (IE the best looking one is the 100% setting my printer currently has as default)
OK.  That eliminates that variable.   ;D

normal flat areas with the diagonal fill look fine with this filament... could just be how the printer/slicer is doing the last layer in this particular item since they are thin?
Is this an .STL that you downloaded from somewhere or are you generating the .STL from a font or .PNG using a program like OpenSCAD?

Does Meshmixer report any errors/flaws in the .STL?

Do you see the gaps in the slicer's layers/path preview or are they nice and even like the diagonal green lines in this pic?

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=371323;image)

You could also try slightly scaling the overall size of the print up/down, if size isn't a critical parameter.
- It looks like the slicer doesn't have enough room to fit another vertical pass into the vertical strokes of the "P" and "E".
- If you're using a 0.4mm nozzle and the width on those vertical strokes is aroud 2.6mm, there's more than enough room for 6 passes (2.4mm), but not enough for 7 passes. (2.8mm)
- If you up-scale the print by ~7.7% (2.8/2.6), you add half a nozzle-width to those vertical strokes which might make enough room for a seventh pass.
- If you down-scale the print by ~7.7% (2.4/2.6), you remove half a nozzle-width from those vertical strokes which might take away the excess room between the six passes.

If size is a critical parameter, you could try slightly repositioning or slightly rotating the model along the Z-axis and reslicing.

Of course, you could also try some spray paint after using either high-build primer or print smoothing epoxy to fill in the gaps on the print.


Scott
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: lilshawn on November 07, 2023, 11:49:52 am
- It looks like the slicer doesn't have enough room to fit another vertical pass into the vertical strokes of the "P" and "E".


I have a feeling you are right on this one. The slicer probably just couldn't fit another pass in the space given and just filled it the best it could.

Size and font isn't a real concern here... There is a bunch of parents chipping in stuff and putting together some swag bags for the cheer team my daughter is on. They have a big competition coming up, so I figured I'd make some tags with the cheer gym logo and their team name on them. so really, it could be any size.

I just threw it together in Tinkercad just randomly picking sizes figuring this and that was about right size... exported the STL and sliced it in Cura, hit print, and didn't think much of it.

I'll take a look at the sliced preview in Cura later today and see if I see a gap like you mentioned. I hadn't really considered a line width multiplier being an issue I'd have to look out for, but in a smallish area, I guess it would be... but I'll first just size it up a little bit like you say and see how it looks.

Thanks for the insight!
I'll let ya know how it turns out  :cheers:
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on November 07, 2023, 02:04:43 pm
I hadn't really considered a line width multiplier being an issue I'd have to look out for, but in a smallish area, I guess it would be...
I ran into that and another somewhat-related problem with the Ikari Warriors themed dust washer (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,155900.msg1647099.html#msg1647099).

In this Cura layers view you can see the gaps in the numbers and missing lines compared to the regular view.
- Tried fine line widths of 0.41 and 0.45 with a 0.4 nozzle, but the slicer dropped some of the lines.
- Had to bump the fine line width up to 0.6 to get them all to slice/print reliably.

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=157889.0;attach=369549;image)

I used a Sharpie to make the lines and numbers stand out, and soaked the inside of the gaps to "fix" them on later prints.   :lol


Scott
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: lilshawn on November 07, 2023, 07:05:43 pm
i don't see any gaps, but the difference between this preview and reality is likely not actually accurate width wise.

FYI, the width of the straight part of the P and E is 2.5mm.

i've seen mention of turning on "ironing". basically a 2nd pass on the last layer at the same z height with a tiny bit of filament extrusion to help fill in gaps and smash down any lumps that might be sticking out... i might give that a try too.

that's the fun part about 3d printers is it's basically free to try again...and again...and again...

Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: PL1 on November 07, 2023, 08:28:40 pm
Try downscaling 4% (2.4/2.5) or upscaling 12%. (2.8/2.5)

Two other variables that might make a difference:

Speed - If the speed is a bit high on the straight vertical passes, it might stretch the filament as it deposits it.
- If it loses contact between each vertical pass and the one before it, the deposited filament could cool and contract leaving the gaps.
- Notice that there is a little contact between the passes at the top and bottom, but gaps in the middle.

(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=152421.0;attach=394650;image)

Temperature - If you bring the temperature up to 208 or 210, the filament should flow and spread a bit easier than it does at 200.  That could help maintain contact during these vertical passes.
- How well does the heater maintain temperature while printing?


Scott
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: lilshawn on November 07, 2023, 09:10:27 pm
- How well does the heater maintain temperature while printing?

it's spot on all the time. I've modded the hotend to remove the screws they put to attach the heatblock to the heatsink. of course if i crash it into the bed, it'll probably snap off at the heat break... but there was no real sense in having hot metal screws sucking heat from the heatblock into the heatsink.

Speed - If the speed is a bit high on the straight vertical passes, it might stretch the filament as it deposits it.
- If it loses contact between each vertical pass and the one before it, the deposited filament could cool and contract leaving the gaps.
- Notice that there is a little contact between the passes at the top and bottom, but gaps in the middle.

the 2 lines in the middle are actually deposited slightly lower than the outside perimeter. (according to cura) also according to cura the flow is consistent across the entire thing, so in theory.. it should be building up on the 2 lines due to the slightly slower speed. (unless it's being overcompensated for.)

i may also try bumping up the temp a little and see what it does as well. the filament is stickered saying it's good up to 235 (not that i'd go that high.)

i did print extrusion test parts with this green filament and had zero issues at 200, even bridges and stuff with no issues. i think it has to be the slicer and that weird size thing.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on November 09, 2023, 10:41:44 am
Your issue looks too bad to be caused by this, but worth a try:

Set extra infill wall count and extra skin wall count to zero.

I had issues with gaps at the edges of the infill and cura seemed to ignore whatever overlap percentage I called for.
The problem was that it considered that extra wall as infill, not a wall, so it did not add any extra overlap between it and the other infill/skin.

If you want to export as a 3mf file and upload, I will take a look.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: lilshawn on December 23, 2023, 12:56:40 am
sorry for the lack of update. i delayed this project... and then tend to forget things often these days. getting old sucks. but, here i am with an doozy update

i took the advice to embiggen the tags slightly and it did VASTLY improve the infill spacing. in my various tests, i did play around with increasing extrusion slightly (to 104%) which also helped close up some gaps but resulted in a bit of stringing and slight over extrusion in some really specific encounters... so i ended up dialing it back. i did increase overlap a tiny bit and it seemed to help as well. just a matter of playing around and seeing what combination works best.

i ended up settling on setting my extrusion up 2%, increasing overlap 10% and increasing the print size 12% and increased the printing speed (apparently this printer seems to perform better at higher speed (infill 100mm/s, internal perimeters 60mm/s, 2500mm acceleration) Turning jerk up to 20mm/s and AND printing external perimeters at the same speed as jerk...effectively turning it off. WEW! this also eliminated some of the weird bulging corners I was getting at right angles.

Apparently it's a nozzle pressure timing thing with the variable speeds they are seem to be trying to use when rounding a corner causes a sight overextrusion as it hits the corner and the molten extrude sort of rolls out the side of the nozzle kinda like a wobbly jello mould when you drive around the corner to grandmas house for christmas dinner. my theory about this is that keeping the speed linear when changing directions around the corner seems to keep the hotend pressure constant instead of spiking up when the nozzle slows down for the last few steps of the corner. but, i digress...

overall the project worked out fairly well. i ended up delaying starting this project because i wanted to upgrade some parts first. (which is also why i haven't updated till now)

I upgraded my Ender 3 pro with a CRtouch bed probe and an additional Z drive motor and lead screw so now it's dual Z drive instead of cantilevered and all setup for auto mesh bed leveling... so...basically an Ender 3 Max Neo (but with a slightly smaller print size and no touch screen)

dual z drive will help if i want to direct drive filament extrusion later.

after a firmware update, and a couple slicer config changes... I can't believe how much these 2 things have changed the quality of the first layers and how much messing around with leveling it eliminates... and the likelihood of success of those attempts to print.

where before i would have to restart about 90% of the prints 3 or 4 times to get good/proper bed adhesion... with these upgrades... I have since printed over 88 projects on the printer (i have a cat container on my desk that i peel off and put the purge lines from the successful prints in) and have maybe only had an issue 3 or 4 times and 1 of them was simply because an error in the configuration.  I had changed some parameters then forgot to save them and powered off, thus not having the proper parameters on power up again.

so with this new setup, I started the tag project. I ended up pumping out 28 of the tags in 7 batches of 4 in just a couple days (~8 hours per print), with one big session to finish off. the tags required a filament change part way through so i figure it had to be babysat, but i guess in the firmware update (thanks to marlin) they fixed the filament change gcode.

Before, it would move up away from the build... beep like 4 times... them move back down and continue printing. when it beeped i would menu over and select pause print, and change the filament by opening the extruder drive and ripping out the  filament and loading the new one, manually pushing it through to purge, then resume. it was kinda hit or miss and required some timing.

Now, it properly supports M600 command so it pauses and moves out of the way, unloads the filament and waits for you to load new filament. Then it loads and purges the nozzle... giving you the option to purge more, or continue...the whole shebang is basically automagic. so it made it super easy... just wait for the beeping and follow the on screen instructions.

all in all, it's been super fun learning the in's and outs of 3d printing. it's a steep AF learning curve to it, but it's awesome how many people there are that have the same issues, and finding so many people to help. it also helps that this model was so popular that literally 100's of thousands of them are out there.

also thank you guys!

merry christmas/xmas/holidays/etc/etc/etc
and happy new year!
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: RandyT on December 24, 2023, 12:08:04 pm
Nice parts!

I decided long ago that I would no longer consider a bed slinger machine to be viable without automated mesh leveling and a dual Z-axis.  Additionally, my Ender3 V2's all got upgraded filament feeders mounted directly above the hot-end assembly and that crazy Bowden tube was cut down to a couple of inches of filament guide tube.  This makes it a quasi-direct extruder.  Since doing this, prints have been much more uniform and reliable and I have only had to replace a nozzle once due to a severe clog, and that was probably due to overcooking the filament during prolonged pre-heat cycles (don't do that :) )  I've literally yet to have a failed print otherwise.  The modifications increase the cost of the printer pretty substantially, but IMHO, they are worth every penny.  Also, touch screens are over-rated for displays that small. They just limit the amount of information one can display or make it difficult to operate :)

Corners can be weird on a lot of automation processes.  Especially when higher speeds come into the equation.  With CNC cutters, it usually manifests as burning of the material, or rounding of the corner to account for the abrupt change in direction at speed.  It's all physics.  The heavier the head and the faster the change in direction, the more tricky this can be to overcome, as the travel must slow down.  As you found, it seems that in the case of 3D printing, the effect of the ramp down to the corners results in heavier extrusions/drool at those features.  Ramp speeds/acceleration/deceleration settings can be altered to give an acceptable result, but sometimes the design of the part is better altered a bit to avoid the problematic features if possible.

It's definitely nice that you got the filament change command to work.  But another way to do that for those parts would be to just have a black program and a green program.  It would require generating the g-code for the complete part and from that, creating separate files for each color through some manual editing, but it would negate the need for any babysitting of the machine.  Maybe something for others who want to do this type of thing to keep in mind if that capability isn't already present (or working properly) on their machines.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: lanman31337 on January 10, 2024, 10:36:50 am
Over the holidays I upgraded my Ender 3 - Dual Z drive, direct drive, new allmetal hotend, printed a fan shroud. I bought an Ender 3 V3 SE, and purchased an HP 705 G4 to run multiple instances of Octoprint and cameras.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on January 10, 2024, 12:46:50 pm
Over the holidays I upgraded my Ender 3 - Dual Z drive, direct drive, new allmetal hotend, printed a fan shroud. I bought an Ender 3 V3 SE, and purchased an HP 705 G4 to run multiple instances of Octoprint and cameras.

Can it print pirate figurines?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: 05SRT4 on January 10, 2024, 05:16:32 pm
Can it print pirate figurines?

I need to dust off the ole resin printer, whatch ya need?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: lilshawn on February 04, 2024, 06:18:53 pm
all you bambu owners with an A1

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AoXa_kFw-os
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: pbj on February 05, 2024, 06:44:12 pm
Screwed right in.

This part is unobtainium, other collectors I know are happy to see this come to fruition.  Found out one of my mosfets is blown on my $300 repro MPU.  But that’s another thread.

Well, well, well...

https://www.siegecraft.us/presta/index.php?id_product=79&controller=product&id_lang=1 (https://www.siegecraft.us/presta/index.php?id_product=79&controller=product&id_lang=1)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Ond on February 17, 2024, 03:32:03 pm
Never thought I'd post in this thread. Stuff happens, things change. So I have a side hustle to my part time job  (I am an Access Technology Specialist) working in a electronics hobbyist shop generally one day a week. There we sell a large range of things, you name it, everything from Raspberry Pi stuff, Arduino, security cameras, retro gamer hardware and .. 3D printers.  To sell these things I at least had to learn something about them. We have variety of demo units including the Ender 3 V3 SE as well more expensive models, both filament and resin. Point is, I'm printing stuff off in the shop on the Ender 3 which just happen to be for my Vpin  ;D.  I know quite a few folk use Fusion 360 for their design work but I prefer 3ds MAX just because I've been using it for so long.  Apparently the Creality Ender-3 V3 KE  is the sexy-go-to machine right now, I'll have a play with it and see...
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Ond on February 18, 2024, 07:48:10 pm
Even on superfine mode filament printers are still coarse to my eye. But this print will be refined quite a bit for a project.

(https://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=395213;image)

(https://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=395215;image)
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Fursphere on February 20, 2024, 08:32:45 am
Even on superfine mode filament printers are still coarse to my eye. But this print will be refined quite a bit for a project.

Use a smaller nozzle, like a 0.25mm.   However, this makes print times increase dramatically on larger parts.  You can get down to 0.07mm layer heights, which is almost resin-like quality. 
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: BadMouth on February 20, 2024, 08:11:24 pm
https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/index_tuning.html

3D printing is an endless progression of "could be better" and diminishing returns.

...and there are limits to how good an fdm print can look.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Ond on February 21, 2024, 02:43:04 am
Even on superfine mode filament printers are still coarse to my eye. But this print will be refined quite a bit for a project.

Use a smaller nozzle, like a 0.25mm.   However, this makes print times increase dramatically on larger parts.  You can get down to 0.07mm layer heights, which is almost resin-like quality.

Thanks, yeah that print was done with a standard 0.4mm nozzle which is what our shop demos run. We have resin printers on display but work health safety rules mean they don't actually get to print anything.

https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/index_tuning.html

3D printing is an endless progression of "could be better" and diminishing returns.

...and there are limits to how good an fdm print can look.

Ha hah, well filament printers have their uses I guess. By the time I'm finished with that print you wont think it came from one.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: lilshawn on February 21, 2024, 10:13:55 am
honestly, i don't really care what it looks like, as long as the part the comes out of the printer is functional.

i mean, yeah i print out decorative items once in a while, but for the most part i'm printing replacement parts for something broke, or a part to achieve a function. if it does that function, it's good enough for me.

my first layers could be better, my attention to preventing warping could be better, my corners could be square-er, my elephant's foot is very slight, but i trim the edges anyway... i occasionally get under extrusion on my outer layers...but also really, why waste the time and effort and filament testing out 2000 different fixes for stuff when it's "good enough" for what i need.

as long as my 3d print can hold up the rod, or hold the circuit board, or skim the scum, or drain the water... good 'nuf!

picrel... new output board adapter endplate for an amplifier. one that no one will ever see but me when i plug the stuff into it and then basically never again until it breaks... if it's ugly...who cares... if it's half ass structurally sound and it's holding the board...  :cheers:
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: RandyT on February 21, 2024, 12:51:41 pm
It is possible to make pretty parts with FDM, but it involves printing with the loathsome ABS and finishing with chemical vapor.  I experimented with this a bit.  It's a fair amount of work and really only good for one-off "artistic" works, and that which does not involve fine details.  IMHO, resin printers are a better choice for pretty things, so long as they need not be too tough.

But for relatively strong and functional parts, it's hard to beat FDM.  I would venture a guess that today there are millions of little 3D-printed pieces of plastic in the world, doing jobs that otherwise would have been impossible for the amount they cost to produce.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Ond on February 21, 2024, 02:46:35 pm
Like I said, FDM printers have their uses.. We get some customers coming in that print simple functional parts for things and the only thing they care about is "how fast can the new model print". Those same customers are only printing in the toughest plastics as well.  A few of the guys in the shop have their own resin printers so I get them to print me the occasional "pretty" things when needed.

I just wanted to be able to understand the end-to-end process of design to print stages in 3D printing, at least enough to speak convincingly to customers anyway.  Finishing techniques for printed things like Randy mentioned interest me. Not just to smooth prints but paint them as well. Anyone got any examples of painted stuff that looks slick? For example, I see really nice resin printed figures but I never see any painted or detailed?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: nitrogen_widget on February 21, 2024, 08:49:04 pm
had a watermain break in the basement last month.
Happy New Year.
printers survived but i had to fit a basements worth of crap into 3/4ths of the basement to make room for contractors.
all fixed.
cost more than i could of ever imagined.

so no printing for a while until i throw stuff out and make a real shop.
not going back to an old bench with a yoga mat on it and a cheap table top green house as an enclosure.

going to build more shelves and throw more stuff out so it looks less like a storage locker with a path and more like a shop.
lol.
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: Ond on March 18, 2024, 11:38:43 pm
I've not had a good week.  It doesn't really matter why.  *sigh* Anyway, I'm thinking of buying me my very own 3D printer!  I watched a Creality K1 working at speed in the shop the other day, very impressive!  A bit pricey though, so I think I'll get me a V3 KE.  They seem to be the best value for money. Has anyone got one?  Are they good? Alternatives?
Title: Re: So ... 3d Printers....
Post by: RandyT on March 20, 2024, 11:21:23 am
I've not had a good week.  It doesn't really matter why.  *sigh* Anyway, I'm thinking of buying me my very own 3D printer!  I watched a Creality K1 working at speed in the shop the other day, very impressive!  A bit pricey though, so I think I'll get me a V3 KE.  They seem to be the best value for money. Has anyone got one?  Are they good? Alternatives?

I don't own one, but the V3 KE seems decent considering the price.  The important bed-slinger upgrades, like auto-bed-leveling, direct extruder and dual-z-axis drive are already there.  Those alone represent over $100 in add-ons for one of their lower tier offerings.  There are other niceties, like Klipper out-of-the-box and the slide rails as well, although the value of those things depends on your usage profile.  Klipper can improve the appearance of parts printed at high speeds, but if appearance is important, slower speeds almost always yield a better result, especially where materials other than PLA are concerned.  And the value of the rails is also a bit controversial.  They add weight, but also rigidity to the beam and are less likely to wear out over long and hard use.  That stated, the regular wheels are very accurate, durable (when not overtigthened) and are dirt cheap and easy to replace if ever necessary.

Normally, I would shy away from units with special nozzles.  However, since this is a Creality machine, I suspect that they will be supported for a reasonable time to come, and it helps that there are several models which use the same nozzle design.  Just be aware that they are a consumable and that they cost more than the typical nozzles, so you'll likely be tempted to try to fix one (often times unsuccessfully) rather than tossing it and using a new one.  Just factor in the cost of the replacements and have plenty on the shelf so you won't need to in a pinch.

But the consensus seems to be that they are decent machines, and Creality has a reasonably good track record compared to other brands. So for the price, and more importantly what you get for it, I think it's something I would buy as a first 3D printer as someone who has already been exposed to them and intends to use it productively.