The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: Franco B on July 02, 2009, 03:20:20 pm
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Finally got back last night after two days of driving, dismantling, loading, driving, unloading and assembling. I did about 620 miles all in all but its all worth it now :)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Naomi%20SD/2cabs1seganaomi.jpg)
As you can see I picked up two Sega Naomi cabs.
The first one I picked up is a Net City with a Naomi 6 button CP with JLFs, 31Khz beautiful and clear 29" monitor, JVS wiring SF4 marquee and marquee holder and SF4 instruction cards. It also came with two 360 pad hacks installed, a 360 VGA cable installed and white stools.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Naomi%20SD/sf4side.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Naomi%20SD/sf4cp.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Naomi%20SD/sf4insidecp.jpg)
The second one I picked up is a culmination of a few Naomis and the cab is absolutely mint. The previous owner repainted the whole thing, fitted new locks, bolts etc and it looks so fresh. The 31khz monitor has a little Initial D screen burn but its not too noticeable and the screen is crisp and bright. It has a Naomi 3 button CP with LS32's and also came with a dreamcast hacked pad. I also bought a Naomi cartridge board to complement the JVS wiring and I also bought a brand new marquee holder from him.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Naomi%20SD/mintynaomi.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Naomi%20SD/mintycp.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Naomi%20SD/mintyinsidecp.jpg)
As you can see it does not have the leg covers on at present. The seller gave me two sets of full size leg covers, a used set of full size legs, a brand new set of full size legs, a spare monitor surround, bezel and light cover.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Naomi%20SD/naomispares.jpg)
I need to cut the purple leg covers down and get them sprayed before fitting them.
As far as plans go for the cabs I'm pretty undecided right now. I think I may transfer the SF4 and 360 components over to the mint cab and then mame the other one. I definitely need to hack another DC pad and dig out my VGA box for some DC schmup goodness :)
As far as maming goes I think I'm going to resray the cab to get it looking as minty as the other. Since I'm respraying it I may go for a different colour(s). I would love to use the Space Invaders artwork BASS! did for me so I may go down that route. I'm undecided on what lighting I'm going for as yet. I have enough spare LED Wiz's to go full RGB on all buttons, ball tops and RBG lit 8 way direction arrows around the joysticks. I'm not yet decided but I need to go fairly bling to showcase some of my current and upcoming components for my webstore once its up and running.
Anyway, I just thought some of you guys may like too see. There's plenty to think about but right now I'm off to play :)
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Nice find. Well worth the drive.
I hate you now, but that doesn't matter. Congrats! ;D
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:o :o :o
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Wow. I am envious.
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Beautiful cabs. I'm very jealous and envious.
I'd prefer a Vewlix, personally, but I would love any candycabs.
Good luck with whatever you do with them (especially if giving them to me is an option! ;) )
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oh I hate you so hard. ;)
those are just damn sexy...and look like they dont take up as much room as other candys....might have to get one of those instead of a egret or astro. though it does look easy enough to build. hmmmmmm 8)
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Cheers guys :)
I am soooo happy with them. This is actually the first time I have had ANY kind of setup in about four years. I haven't even had a mame setup in that time, I think the last time I had an install was about .103
I'm really looking forward to playing some propper games again and hopefully join in on the high score competitions you guys have. I'll lose miserably but it will be fun trying :)
Oh, I forgot to mention, I think I may get a multi-sync chassis for one of the tubes for some 15khz goodness.
King Nerd, I would love a Vewlix too. There were a couple for sale at the time when I was sorting these out but I was stretching myself as it was, let alone something four times the price :)
Gatsu buddy, there pretty mutch the same width as the Egret 2 and Astra City (infact the Naomi's look to be 10mm wider according to hard candy)
They do come apart very easily and can be compacted for transport. The lad who I bought the 2nd one of has transported one in his VW Golf before.
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$?
I broke my piggy bank getting a Namco Cyberlead for $550USD (with Naomi MOBO)
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Sounds like you got a good deal to me! :)
Ok here goes, (I really didnt want to add it all up :-\ )
SF4 Cab (everything included)- £550
Other Cab/Monitor on is own - £340
JVS/Naomi - £150
Brand new marquee holder - £80 (not cheap but these things aint!)
Total £1120
Looks like its super noodles for the rest of the month! :laugh:
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Congrats on the cabs Franco... haha, and you said I was extravagant with my cabinets! ;)
V nice set up! Mame-ing one of these is extremely easy - I kept all the original wiring/mobo in mine as I love playing the originals (a bit of Virtua Tennis and Striker ;D) but as it's 31khz natively, you can just swap the VGA lead over when you want to play a bit of MAME/Naomi - so I quite often do! You just need a JVS-Pac - about £40 shipped from a nice chap in Norway and they work superbly!
I've managed to buggar my Naomi up somehow... nothing a bit of research (and probably cost :-[) won't sort out but it's frustrating as I'm not willing to play it until I fix it...
I'm sure you're going to have a lot of fun with these! ;D
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Looks like I'm gonna be scrounging up for a Astro once I get my vewlix finished.
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Nice! :)
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Cheers :)
Slapham bud, hehe I know I know, I couldnt help myself though :)
I'm building a new CP for the 2nd cab so I'm just going to put a IPAC in and then connect the PC straight to the monitors VGA port.
I saw your Naomi thread before I had picked mine up. I doubt I may be able to help but I'll go have another look at your thread now I have a rough idea of whats what.
Btw, if your ever over this way again feel free to come over for a game :)
I'm going to get this thread moved over to PA now. I've stripped the 3 button CP and I'm going to use it as a template to template route a new Acrylic CP tomorrow.
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Congrats to you!
That's a nice steal right there.
Where did you manage to find them?
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Yo Franco, just replied to your response to my thread - much appreciated on the offer! Just need to see whether it's my motherboard and if you could lend me one then I'd really appreciate it! Once I've concluded whether or not that's causing the problem then I can start to think of what needs doing!
All I can say is you're in trouble mate! It's like a tub of pringles, arcade collecting, once you pop you just can't stop! ;D Before you know it, you'll be eyeing up even more cabs! :lol
Yeah, if I'm ever in Lincs then I'll give you a bell, same goes for you in sunny Norfolk! Having said that I've just graduated and I'm thinking I may have a change of location relatively soon who knows where I'll be! :P
Got to say, I'm rather envious of those rather nice Marquees... daft thing is, they are worth a packet alone! You got some very nice cabs there, nice and clean!
Are you going to have some kind of system link-up set up? I played SF4 (arcade) over at Andy's (Segashed) when I collected my Naomi and while I didn't exactly play properly (I totally suck at SF4), the system link up was really nice on the 2 Net Cities he'd put them in! Doing a MAME system link would be very easy to achieve and would look good on your set-up!
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As you can see I picked up two Sega Naomi cabs.
And you put them in your bathroom. Seriously, that room looks to be about 6 feet wide.
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Ii desu ne?!
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@ slapaham: No worries dude, if you want to borrow the mobo just give me a shout. I know what you mean about the Pringles, I've picked up three cabs in as many weeks :-\ :lol Ooo, I hadn't thought about the link-up, that could be interesting! :)
:lol @ mlalena: It's actually our third 'bedroom'. We don't all have 1000sq/ft rooms over here in the UK :) We only been moved in about three months and it was just being used as storage. I much prefer it now! :)
@ ddnaldson: They sound great if that what you were asking (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Smileys/bliss.gif)
I've asked for this thread to be moved over to PA so I'll carry on with updates in this thread.
I've started work on the replacement CP for the cab on the left. I'm going to use 3mm acrylic but for a start I've been working on a CP template to use to route the acrylic.
I stripped the CP and traced the outline on some 12mm MDF:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Naomi%20SD/tracednaomi.jpg)
I jigsawed the profile out leaving 3mm or so to clean up with the router. As the metal CP is so thin I used some washers to raise it slightly so it would run along the bearing and allow the cutters flutes to clear the top of the MDF so all of the material was removed:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Naomi%20SD/washersnaomicp.jpg)
Then it was just a case of trimming the excess on my router table:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Naomi%20SD/routingnamoicptemplate.jpg)
I've not finished the router table as yet but you can see the top panel swings up to allow easy changing of cutters and adjusting the cutting height. I need to mount two lock arms I've made for it to keep the top panel elevated but a tool box works for now :D
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Naomi%20SD/hingeedrouters.jpg)
Pic of the template after cleaning it up a little:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Naomi%20SD/finishednaomicptemp1.jpg)
Then just a test fit on the cab:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Naomi%20SD/finishednaomicptemp2.jpg)
Not too shabby if I do say so myself :)
I need to get some black 3mm acrylic to continue with the CP now.
Whilst I was working I decided to change the washers for the JLFs on the SF4 themed cab as I don't really like the standard black textured ones.
These are the stock JLW washers, I'm sure you know what they look like:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Naomi%20SD/originalnaomiwasher.jpg)
I've made some acrylic replacements but I'm not sure which ones to go for. I made a gloss black washer, a gloss orange and a mirrored:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Naomi%20SD/blacknaomiwasher.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Naomi%20SD/orangenaomiwasher.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Naomi%20SD/mirrorednaomiwasher.jpg)
What do you think? I quite liking the mirrored at the moment.
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Mirrored, def... :o
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Mirrored is NIIIIIIIIIIIIIICE.
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Cheers :)
The other option is stainless grooved dustwashers and matching stainless 'Candy Cane™' JLF shafts.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Naomi%20SD/candycanesleeves.jpg)
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Cheers :)
The other option is stainless grooved dustwashers and matching stainless 'Candy Cane™' JLF shafts.
I do like the stainless dustwasher, although I think I'd prefer a plain stainless shaft.
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I'd vote for the stainless grooved washers. The mirrored looks really cool, but I'd be worried about keeping it all shiny and free of fingerprints. Unless I'm the only person in the world that rests his fingers on the base of the joystick between levels.
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Miles?
Um, shiny can be cool, but even with good stock it sometimes can seem plain. I also vote for the stainless.
Malenko, you may've broke your bank, but you got a ---smurfin--- smookin deal.
Gatsu: egret or astro city, all the way.
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So very nice.
The stainless washers look best to me.
Never having owned a candy before, I take it the CP isn't deep enough to hold a happs stick? I've always wanted a candycab but I just can't get used to the japanese sticks at all.
Going to have to make my own, more than likely.
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I think its deep enough for happ controls. I've seen a few happ modified candys around in other forums. Just don't see it a lot.
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Thanks for moving the thread Saint :cheers:
Yeah there is plenty of depth in the CP. I just had a quick measure and there is 8cm (3") at the narrowest part.
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Well I've ordered the acrylic for the CP and at the same time I ordered some 10mm black acrylic for some stools I'm making for the space invaders candy. I started work on these a while ago for my cocktail but I put them on the back burner as I didn't need them at the time.
I did have a CAD model of the stools but I can't find it after swapping PCs and HDDs around but here's a simple paint drawing:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Naomi%20SD/stooljpg2-1.jpg)
The seats are each going to house a 10" blue lumin disc that mountain kindly shipped over to the UK for me. On top of the blue disc there will be a space invader cut of 10mm black acrylic. To make the space invaders I had some 8mm thick steel templates made:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/image-upload-200-750188.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/image-upload-177-786488.jpg)
I then used the templates and a 1/4" guided bit to cut out the space invaders. This is a picture of one of them laid on top of one of the lumin discs.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Naomi%20SD/image-upload-136-7796411.jpg)
I decided to do a negative image of the space invaders as the lumin discs are white when they are not lit and so the space invaders show up as white. The lumin discs are light and touch sensitive. I did have some video of them in action but I cant find the mobile blog where I stored it but I have found this picture:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Naomi%20SD/pic11123.jpg)
The discs and space invaders will be set inside the stools so there wont be the bleed around the edges that can be seen in that picture. There will be a 8mm piece of clear acrylic between the invaders and the disc to give some added depth and there will also be a 8mm clear piece on top which will be the part you actually sit on.
The top and very bottom piece of the stool will be made from 10mm black acrylic. I'm planning on using two rings of black/pinstripe chrome t-moulding and then either black leather or carbon fibre to cover the section in between the t-moulding.
As I need to cut lots of circles of various sizes I thought It was about time I built a propper circle jig. I've been following javeryh's excellent [Circle Jig Tutorial (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=82554.0)] and made the main body this morning. I hope to get it finished tomorrow.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Naomi%20SD/circlejig1.jpg)
The main shaft of the stool will be made from some 90mm stainless tube. I have the tube turned, it just needs polishing and cutting to length:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Naomi%20SD/stoollowercoupling.jpg)
You can also see the lower coupling in that picture that will attach the 10mm black acrylic base to the shaft. There are tapped holes in the bottom to attach the coupling to base and then some grub screws will attach the coupling to the shaft.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Naomi%20SD/stoollowercoupling2.jpg)
I still need to make the upper couplings to attach the shaft to the main body of the stool.
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will you be taking....custom orders for some stools? Because those are gonna be friggin sweet.
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Franco, you are totally crazy - I love it! :cheers:
I don't know how you convinced the better half to go for TWO candy cabs - that is the biggest trick of all - nice work!
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will you be taking....custom orders for some stools? Because those are gonna be friggin sweet.
I would love to be able to make more but I'm afraid there going to be far too time consuming. I'm not looking forward to polishing all of the nook and crannys of the space invaders :-\
Franco, you are totally crazy - I love it! :cheers:
I don't know how you convinced the better half to go for TWO candy cabs - that is the biggest trick of all - nice work!
Ha! Cheers bud.
She actually said to me the other night 'You know what, we need a pinball table now' then she followed that with 'Actually, what we really need is a big game room' :D
She came up with the idea of builing one behind our my garage workshop. I told her that we need to buy the place first! (We're just renting at the moment but we want to buy it eventually). Still though, I'll hold her to that! :)
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thats cool. never hurts to ask though. hehe.
Getting the womans support is always good. My girlfriend doesn't know what to think about my arcade obsession. When I told her I was gonna build an arcade machine...at first she thought I was nuts. But after I showed her a few progress photos she thought it was a cool idea.
Now...when I told her I'd be buying another one....her first comment was "where are you gonna put it?" I just said I'd have to reorganize the game room. So shes fine with it as long as I'm the one doing the rearranging....not her. lol.
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Holy ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- at those stools!
You are a god among machinists.
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Good to see you getting back to the projects Franco. Let's see some more :pics
Michael
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You are a god... period
Small correction. ;)
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Ha! I wouldn't go that far! :P
Okies, plenty of pics ahoy! :)
I used the MDF template I made to route out a piece of black 3mm acrylic to make a new CP:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=128862)
Although its a perfect fit it sits just slightly too high so I'm going to get a CP CNC milled from 2mm aluminium.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Naomi%20SD/newcp11.jpg)
You can see the CP I am going to make here. I'm going to have RGB joysticks, RGB lit buttons and RGB lit arrows around each joystick. I seem to amassed eight LED Wiz's so I may as well put three to good use.
Pic of the modded RGB swivel JLF's I made:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=128888)
You can also see the instruction panel above the CP. I'm going to use the SI graphics that BASS! kindly designed for me and I'm going to use the instruction space and the CP area for the graphics as the CP is fairly narrow and a lot of the graphics would be missed off.
Original graphics for reference:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Naomi%20SD/Largepanelgraphicforumsmallversion.png)
BASS! is kindly tweaking the graphics for me to fit the new CP etc and is also designing a marquee and hopefully some art for the legs too
The two higher circles in the center will be player one and two start buttons and I'm thinking of installing the turbo twist spinner where the lower center circle is and using the SI spinner top I made:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Naomi%20SD/carbonspinner1.jpg)
Whilst I am getting the CP sorted I have been working on the stools some more. I made a template out of some scrap material I had at work to use as the template for the upper seat acrylic, lower seat acrylic and the base acrylic:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=128890)
As you can see the spacies will fit inside nicely:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=128892)
The black acrylic I ordered was six 300x300x10mm sheets. I needed to remove the excess material before template routing the rings. To do this I used the circle jig I made based of Javs design/how to.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=128866)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=128864)
Its basically the same as Javs, I just screwed it together instead of gluing it and made a knurled knob to fix the sliding block. I also added another t-nut with a long M6 bolt which acts as the pivot.
I marked the template out and drilled a 6mm center hole and countersunk holes in the corners to fix the material to my work bench.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=128876)
In the end I attached the material to a scrap piece of MDF as the two surfaces of the work bench are not parallel and it was causing the acrylic to bend. It was then just a case of setting the cutting radii and cutting the rings out.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=128870)
Just a safety reminder here, I had one of the bits break on me as I was routing. Always wear eye protection guys!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=128894)
Pic of the routed out pieces:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=128868)
Now I just need to attach the pieces to the template and route off the excess material. I have ordered some more flush trim bits which should be here tomorrow.
I have also had some luck on the monitor front. At the moment both candys have 31khz monitors. The one I am maming has some screen burn so I have been looking for a replacement. grantspain had some 29" (27" to you US guys) 15khz monitors shipped over from Spain and I bought two of them. This is one of them:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=128880)
I have replaced the monitor in my Jamma woody with one of them and the picture on them is awesome! The monitor I had before had some serious colour issues which I couldn't fix so I replaced it with one of the 29"s and its loads better :)
This is the old monitor:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=128882)
and this is the new one prior to decasing it and mounting it in the cab:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=128878)
The best thing about them is they were only £50 each! :D
I plan to replace the burned 31khz monitor in the mame candidate with the other 29" 15hkz monitor. I just need to weigh up the best way to connect it to the PC. Either ArcadeVGA>JPAC or soft 15khz or JVS-PAC or whatever.
This means I should have mame running at 15khz and I should also be able to connect my Saturn. I will leave the 31khz in the other cab for Naomi carts, Xbox 360 and dreamcast which should leave most of the bases covered.
Whilst I'm on the subject of the other cab I have the DC and 360 hooked up to the monitor via a VGA switch:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=128860)
The 360 has a VGA lead and the DC is connected though a VGA box. The DC looks awesome though VGA and me and the GF had a right 'blast' with some lightgun games last night. I played Confidential Mission for the first time and its great! :)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=128872)
The candys also have some hooks on the back which are ideal to hang the DC guns as you can see in that pic.
Haruman is hacking me some DC pads and I'm going to add AMP connectors so the controls can be easily changed from Naomi>360>DC.
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Awesome looking! I'd love to play some HotD2 with the wife but I don't have anything that can play it at the moment! Those cabs look great! :cheers:
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Cheers bud. Yeah the 31khz cab is great for DC light gun games. It only hit me the other day that I would be able to play light gun games on it. I quickly grabbed the light guns out the attic and 'acquired' some gun games :P
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Cheers bud. Yeah the 31khz cab is great for DC light gun games. It only hit me the other day that I would be able to play light gun games on it. I quickly grabbed the light guns out the attic and 'acquired' some gun games :P
Like you, I also don't have a full MAME cabinet in the house at the moment. I've got 2 verticals and a now-gutted cocktail and an unfinished wood-grain upright but nothing complete that people can come over and play "anything" on. I can get my fill of the classics for sure but I really wish I could play some gun, trackball and spinner games. I promised myself I wouldn't be starting anything new until all current projects are at 100% so it is going to be a while... I am drooling at that candy running HotD2... I almost want to go home and hook up the Dreamcast just to play it again...
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That's it bud, too much time making and not enough time playing! :)
Did some more work on the stools today. I stuck the first ring to the template with double sided tape like normal but I was having problems getting the acrylic off afterwards. It can also remove the protective film from one side of the component and/or leaves a sticky residue which takes an age to get off. Seeing as the acrylic is 10mm thick I thought I would drill and tap the acrylic to hold it to the template.
I drilled thought the template and into the acrylic leaving about 3mm so as not to break through. I have found the best way to tap a hole when using a pillar bench drill (assuming you don't have a tapping box is to do the following:
Drill your tapping hole with the job securely clamped. Remove the drill and insert the tap into the chuck:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=128967)
Bring the tap down to the hole and rotate the chuck by hand (make sure the power is off!) to start the first few threads.
Then just undo the chuck and raise the chuck/arbour with the tap still in the hole. You can then finish the tapping with a tap wrench:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=128969)
This method ensures that the tap starts cutting in line with the hole and wont wander etc.
I used a 5mm drill as I was tapping M6x1 holes (you just subtract the pitch from the thread size to get the drill size on metric threads). I used a M6 spiral fluted machine tap and then ran a straight fluted M6 tap which I had ground the lead off to make sure that the threads went all the way to the bottom of the hole:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=128971)
Then it was just a case of routing the excess off:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=128963)
Here you can see one of the Spacies sat inside the top ring to give you a better idea of how the stools will look. The Spacie will sit 8mm inside the top ring and there will be a piece of 8mm clear acrylic on top of it to bring it flush with the top of the seat. There will also be a 8mm clear piece below the Spacie and on top of the lumin disc to give it a little depth and make the Spacie look like its floating a little:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=128965)
Pic of all the pieces template routed and 6mm beveled:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=128959)
To polish them I bolted the pieces back to the template and held it in a lathe. Its making them easier to polish but its still heavy going:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=128961)
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another necro bump for you Franco. Let's see some progress...
Michael
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Damn you and your encouragement (x3!) :D
I've just come back to work today after two weeks on the sick with some severe dental pain but all is good now :)
I have made a fair bit of progress with the stools and other parts but I thought I would wait until they are nearly finished until I posted some more pics but if you are interested I will post what I have so far.
Edit: Damn, I thought I had my transfer cable here with me but I haven't, I'll get some pics up tomorrow.
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Okies, update as requested.
Lots o pics alert!
I have been really undecided about what to do with the cabs in relation to the monitors. I did toy with the idea of selling one of the cabs and using the money to buy a tri-sync Sanwa PFX and have all of the consoles/mame etc in the same cab but I can't really justify spending £700 on a monitor when I have a lovely 31khz monitor in one and I have an excellent 15khz monitor that I can put in the other. I will then use the one with the 31khz monitor for Naomi games, Dreamcast and Xbox 360. That way I get to keep two cabs too :)
Seeing as I'm replacing one of the monitors with a 15khz I am going to remove the JVS setup and rewire it for Jamma. I can then use an ArcadeVGA for Mame along with a J-Pac to wire the controls. I can then play my MVS carts in it along with Jamma boards and I also intend to put my Saturn in it too.
This is the JVS I/O board which needs removing:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=130836)
I/O board removed and getting the monitor ready for swapping:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=130862)
I then removed the 31khz monitor and unbolted it from the mounting frame:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=130840)
I then bolted the 15khz monitor to the frame and mounted it back onto the cab. The only slight problem I have is that the new monitor has a slightly different curvature to the old one so I will need to modify the bezel so that it sits flush. I don't have a pic of the new monitor in place at the moment but I managed to just squeeze one in my Jamma Woody and they are awesome monitors, especially for £50 each :)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=130820)
On to the stools:
Now I have the plastic parts cut I need to make up some MDF discs and rings to house the lumin discs and give the stools there depth.
I template routed a ring for the disc to sit in to keep it central:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=130850)
Lumin disc in place:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=130838)
I then needed to make some MDF discs to make up the bulk of the stools. As you cab see the PCB enclosure protrudes from the back of the disc so the discs has to have a cutout to clear the enclosure.
I find the best way (for me) to route out a square is to use a couple of pieces of aluminium section and then use a template bit to follow them. I just cut two of the edges and then move one piece of the section around to cut the other two sides. The radius of the cutter forms a natural radius in the corners:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=130854)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=130824)
This is the first piece on top of the disc and MDF ring. As you can see there is a gap at the disc sits slightly higher that the MDF ring:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=130830)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=130848)
To get the two sections of MDF to sit flush I had to counterbore the MDF disc with a pattern bit:
Setting the tool height:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=130846)
Mid routing:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=130844)
Finished counterbore:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=130842)
As you can see they sit flush now:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=130834)
Then it was just a case of building up the sections:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=130856)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=130858)
Pic of the disc from the other side:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=130832)
These are the clear 8mm thick acrylic discs that I cut out. One will sit below the spacie and the smaller one will sit on top of it flush with the black acrylic:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=130860)
The top MDF ring will be bolted with recessed machine screws to the top black acrylic ring and then the lower MDF layers will be screwed into the layer above it. I could glue them but then I would never be able to get to the lumin discs If I ever need to get them out.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=130866)
Obligatory t-moulding slot picture:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=130868)
I have also pretty much finished the stainless columns and couplings. They just need a good polish:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=130828)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=130826)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=130822)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=130864)
That's it for now :)
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Wow...sure leave us hanging right when the sexy steel is about to meet the cuts of wood!
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Heh heh, we'll there won't be any wood on show. There is a 10mm thick black acrylic disc on the top and bottom of the stool and a third one will be the stools base.
Inbetween the two discs will be two bands of black/chrome pin stripe t-moulding and then in the center of that I can't decide on carbon fibre or black or white leather. Any thoughts?
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I think carbon fiber would go nicely with those polished stems, but, damn, you make it look like you could pick up a dog turd, run it through a router and end up with a shining gold scepter :)
Seriously, very cool work!
Now, off to scope out a simple little queen anne step stool so my 5 year old can reach the controls without the flight stick being "in the way" ;D
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Ha ha! Cheers dude, I sometimes end up making a pile of poo before I end up with something that I am happy with though :)
Yeah I think I will go with the carbon fibre, thanks.
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(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=130862)
MY EYES, MY EYES, :cry: IT'S NAKID
LOL Good stuff there Franco. It is amazing how you can put all this together seeming so easy.
TTFN :cheers:
Michael
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Well, my plans have completely changed again!
At the last update I had replaced the 31khz monitor for a 15khz one. I have always wanted to get a Sanwa PFX tri-sync monitor for it but the £700 price tag put me off. I recently found out that Sega UK had a sale on and they were selling the monitor for £495+VAT (about £570). I also found out that they only had about 10 left in stock and wouldn't be replenishing it so I decided to bite the bullet and get one :)
It is still pretty expensive but they are the best 29" tri-sync monitor cab you can get. Obviously it is a brand new monitor so It should last me a long time if not forever. Now that I have a tri-sync monitor I can get all of the systems I want to run in one machine - 15khz for 15khz Jamma boards and MAME. I have a saturn too which I think you can connect to a 15khz display but I will have to look into that. I can then also hook the Naomi, Dreamcast and 360 to the 31khz VGA :cheers:
This means I will have the 15khz monitor left over. I recently managed to get a Cadillacs and Dinosaurs CPS1 PCB. I have been after this for aaaages.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=134162)
I think I will eventually build a 'dedicated' cab for this game using the 29" 15khz monitor. C&D never had a dedicated cab as it was sold as a kit so I want to eventually make a scratch built cab for it with full side art etc like Martijn's awesome SF2 cab
I think I will probably sell the 'SF4' cab to make space for a visual pinball table.
Since I now have the PFX all is change for the wiring too. I was going to remove the JVS I/O board and wiring etc but I am going to keep most of it intact for Naomi and for the degauss button etc.
The cab currently has a huge transformer in the base that powers the 110v Sun ATX PSU (which then powers the JVS and credit board), amplifier, strip light and the original 31khz. I need to get the PC components, Dreamcast, 360 in the cab and have space for Jamma PCBs too so I want to get rid of the huge transformer to make some space.
The new monitor can take 240v as can the strip light. The Sun ATX PSU takes 110v so I am going to have to get rid of that too. It gives out 3v for the JVS board but I can power that from the PC PSU. It also puts out 5v for the credit board but I am installing a mechanical 100 Yen coin mech so that clears that up too. This just leaves the sound amplifier which takes a funky 17v. Someone suggested that I could power it by using the 12v and -5v (for the ground) from the PC ATX but I still need to confirm this.
I have ordered another amplifier that takes 12-24DC which I can definitely power from the PC PSU. Its a Sanyo 115w (PMPO lol) DIY amp that Frizz and some others recommended in another thread. I ordered it from ebay US for £12 delivered. I'm going to compare the sound quality to the original amplifier.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=133974)
The current amplifier setup is handy as you can adjust the volume by a pot on the I/O board under the CP. You can see it in the lower right of this picture:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=134164)
To retain this functionality I am planning on making a new I/O panel to house the new amplifier too.
This panel will house the JVS board and controlls, the new amp (if I use it), the JVS AMP connectors and also the VGA switch for switching between DC and 360. I decased the switch to give me a little more room to play with:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=134087)
I am planning on having two sets of female AMP connectors in the panel 2(2x12pin + 1x15pin).
The controls will connect directly to one set of the female AMP connectors. The Jamma control loom, DC pad hacks and 360 pad hacks will then be terminated with male AMP connectors so that to change systems all I need to do is open the CP (takes two seconds) plug in the correct AMP connectors and push the appropriate VGA button if applicable. I will make a short male>male loom to connect the two sets of AMP connectors for Naomi.
I think that's most of the wiring covered.
I was planning on going full RGB on all of the buttons, joystick balls and have LED lit arrows around the joysticks and so I cut a new CP for it:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=131496)
However I have decided to cut back on the bling on this one and have no (shock, horror :laugh:) LEDs at all. I am going to save the LEDs for the C&D cab.
Ond is very kindly working on some custom art for me but I will save that for a later date.
The only other thing I have done is to cut a 5mm thick piece of white acrylic to replace the metal lid on the base. I am going to need to mount some fans in it to keep the base nice and cool as it is going to be pretty cramped in there.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=134166)
I think that's all for now. Sorry for the waffle but I find it helps to write everything down.
Pinky is taking priority at the moment but I am going to do the odd thing on this when I am waiting for parts etc for Pinky.
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I bought another Naomi today. It is a Confidential Mission light gun cabinet that looks like this:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=134245)
It it an upright cab that has full length legs. You can cut the legs down to make it like my other two but I'm going to keep this as an UR.
A friend of mine bought it kinda buy accident. He has sold the guns etc and he is selling me the rest of the cab for an absolute bargain price of £140 ;D
My sisters boyfriend has a bar on our local university campus so I'm going to put it on location there.
I have a few MVS and Jamma boards so I am going to run them on it (yes, no MAME). I think 20p a credit should go down well with the students. I have a 1 slot MVS mobo but I may get a four slot so I don't have to rotate the games as often.
It has no Naomi set up in so I am going to rewire it for Jamma. I have a small moped 12v audio amp that will power the speakers.
As It will mainly be running MVS I am going to make a Neo Geo style CP for it which should match the red on the cab.
I'm planning on something like this for the layout:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=134243)
The two lower buttons will me PL1+2 start and the one just above it will the game select button.
I need some artwork for it and have put a request [here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=97322.0)] if any one fancies earning some beer tokens.
The cab has a 31khz monitor so I have ordered a CGA/EGA/YUV to VGA converter for the 15khz Jamma/MVS.
I'm not using the tangle free JLF shafts on my Mame cab so I may as well put them to use on this one. I may also light the CP buttons with two of [these (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2-X-24-WHITE-LED-24CM-Linear-Flexible-Strip-Car-Light_W0QQitemZ130332129173QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item1e58667795)] which my friend used to light his Naomi CP like this:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=134252)
There will be a couple of other bits to sorted out but it shouldn't take too long. I hold be picking it up on on Wednesday or Thursday and I hope to have the conversion done in a few days so I can get it on site.
I'm also going to make it so that I can install a 360 and swap the CP over with one of my other cabs so that we can hold SF4 etc tournaments.
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you lucky devil you.
;)
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Yes, you can run the original amp from the -5 and +12 Volt PSU lines.
Simply connect the -5V to the GND connection on the amp and the +12V to the 17V or power connection on the amp.
It works because voltage is all about the "potential difference", that is the difference between the ground and voltage sources. By lowering the ground below 0V, you're increasing the potential difference of the positive voltage source. So the potential difference between -5V and +12V is 17V.
The only foreseeable problem with this is the need to isolate any grounded metal components on the amp from the rest of cabinet (ie: the heatsinks etc).
Steve
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@ saleem:
He he, yeah I think its a good deal if I do say so myself. Its going to be a 6 hour round trip to go and get it but it should be worth it. I should be able to get it up and running for less than £300 including everything. If it takes approx £5 a day I should get my money back in two months.
I thinking about doing some SF4 etc tournaments. £5 to enter, 16 players knock out. £40 for the winner, £20 for second and £10 for third or something like that.
@ KissMyWookie:
Thanks for the info. I think I'm just going to use the new amp in my cab. This new one doesn't have a I/O board at all so I'm going to transfer the metal frame to this new one for the AMP connectors.
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personaly i would just give them a 3 button setup on plain cp,stick a 48 in 1 in there and leave them to it.its like opening your doors to complete strangers and letting them into your house when you trust them with an expensive arcade machine.
i would just use a generic jamma cab,there is no way i would let them at such a lovely specimen naomi.
on a side not i wanna a naomi.on ebay them too expensive,dont think you got that from ebay.but,its funny as my fbot was on ebay for £120 buy it now,man what a bargain that was so its just a case of watching and waiting,man trolling through 40 odd pages is pain in the ass.but,one day i will get a naomi or a proper candy cab.
and when you get her,take some pics and let us all see what shes like.
:)
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I'm going to go with the four button Neo Geo layout as it will be running Neo Geo games most of the time. Neo Geo games tend to display the controls too so it will be a good idea to have a matching control panel.
I also have a spare 2 player 6 button panel so I can swap that out for 360 tournys etc. Its all going to be wired with OEM AMP connectors to make it easy to swap over.
I did think about the multi Jamma boards but most of them are vertical games so wouldn't really be any good to me. I have just ordered a 100in1 MVS cart to 'evaluate'. I'm not sure what the legalities are of running something like that though.
The cab I'm getting isn't in quite as good condition as that picture but it should look nice with the new CP and marquee holder etc. I'm not going to go over board as it will probably get bashed around a bit. These cabs are great as you can disassemble them in small pieces to it will be easy to move about. I have a Jamma woody myself and they are freaking heavy and cumbersome in comparison.
I'm not too fussed if it does get knocked about as its cheap. Everywhere is non smoking nowadays so the most abuse its likely to get is a few knocks and maybe spilt drinks/student vomit :laugh:
I've ordered quite a few more bits for it this morning:
New Seimitsu PS 14-K buttons from Gremlin Solutions (red, blue, yellow and green for the action buttons, red for the start buttons and white for the game select)
Jamma edge connectors, PCB mounting feet and Jamma PSU from JapanDeal
LED striplights from ebay
9/12/15 pin male/female AMP connectors from Sega Shed
Excel credit board and C120 mech from giz10p.co.uk
I have decided to go with a electronic coin mech so that 10p-£1 can be inserted. I'll probably charge 30p for one credit, two for 50p and 5 for £1 (takes me back :)) At least then it won't all be 20p's to collect/change.
I am probably going to sell my 'SF4' Naomi if you are interested ;)
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I just saw this thread, Franco and let me just say, those stools are looking awesome! How many projects are you working on right now anyway???? Slow down man..... your making me tired! :dizzy: ;D
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Cheers dude, they should look pretty nice once they are done. I have made a few other bits for them which should look quite nice :)
Yes, as normal I have far too many loads of projects on the go at them moment, hence my sig. :laugh: I think the current list is:
Pinky McJuke
Confidential Mission Naomi Convertion
My PFX Naomi project
SF4 Naomi cab (just a little tinkering)
My Jamma Woody cab
Custom CP enclosures for a customer
Custom work for Rich@Thisoldgame
Drilling routing templates for a couple of people
Dreamcast CP for a friend
R&D on various components
Repro marquee holders
Cocktail (on the back burner for now)
Visual pinball table in planning
Damn, I didn't realsie it was that much until I typed it out! :dizzy:
A friend of mine has been working on the artwork for the Neo conversion for me. It needs tweaking a little but I think it looks lovely :)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=134425)
I have also made a repro marquee holder for the Neo cab. They are about £80 to buy new and are quite hard to get hold of so I didn't want to put a genuine one on location.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=134361)
I will get some Neo Geo artwork printed for it.
A quite a few people have asked me to make repro marquee holders for them too I'm currently ordering all of the parts for them. More info [here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=97374.0)] if anyone is interested.
I have the van booked for Thursday so I should be able to get some pics up once I have it home.
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Wow, you really are busy! You must have a very understanding GF! Yeah she definitely deserves that juke for christmas! :) Good luck with all your projects! Now stop the chit chatting and get back to work!
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Wow, you really are busy!
Not to mention he just made some time to help me out with some custom work too :cheers:
Franco is a madman!
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The CPO turned out excellent, FrancoB! Kudos to whoever did the "final" design. :applaud:
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Wow, you really are busy! You must have a very understanding GF! Yeah she definitely deserves that juke for christmas! :) Good luck with all your projects! Now stop the chit chatting and get back to work!
Yeah she is very understanding luckily. I work shifts so I do get a fair amount of time to work on things. If I'm not working at home I'm normally doing something project related at work so it's definitely all go go go! :)
Wow, you really are busy!
Not to mention he just made some time to help me out with some custom work too :cheers:
Franco is a madman!
No worries dude. You have to sort your boys out don't you :cheers:
I just checked your tracking and it looks like your stuff should be stateside now although its not showing up on USPS but there system does seem to take longer to update.
The CPO turned out excellent, FrancoB! Kudos to whoever did the "final" design. :applaud:
Its nice isn't it :) Rosco (aryssoR) did it for me, I'm making him a new DC CP top in exchange. I have had to move the game select button down a fraction as it would have fouled on one of the mounting tabs but apart from that I should be good to go.
I had a thought about lighting the marquee. Some Candy marquees are lit from a light bar below. The Naomi's have a bar that lights the strip across the front of the machine but it won't be enough to light the marquee. The marquees I'm making are two sheets of 3mm acrylic so I'm thinking of making the back piece out of frosted acrylic with a clear front.
To light it I was going to insert an LED strip to sit inside the section that holds the marquee. The trouble is that that section is only 6mm wide and the narrowest LED strips I could find are 7mm wide. I ordered some 5mm square acrylic bar yesterday and some red 3mm LEDs to make my own strip with LEDs at 25mm intervals but thinking about it now, the bottom section that holds the marquee has an open bottom so I can just insert the pre made LED strips from the bottom. Doh! (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Smileys/speechless-smiley-004.gif)
Oh well, I'm sure the square bar and LEDs will come in useful for something!
This is the LED strip:
(http://www.uksolarseller.com/GOHANKUU/D0017/003.jpg)
I think it should light marquee nicely :)
The bottom of the marquee is 600mm long. You can buy 600mm lengths of this but the LEDs are spaced much further apart. I am going to try two of these 300mm strips as they should be much brighter.
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I gotta say, I'm loving just about everything about this.
Now you just got to finish it!
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Its been a busy few days!
Thursday morning I got up about 6am as I wanted to give the shop a good clean before I picked the cab up. I took everything out of the shop I could and had a damn good sweep up and even hoovered the floor and walls :D I knew I was going to have some painting to do and I wanted to get rid of as much of the sawdust/plastic etc as possible.
I picked the van up about 9, took it back home, loaded a couple of old monitors up and took them to the tip. I set off for Chester at about 10, made it up there for about 12.45 had a chat with the guy I bought it off (top bloke!) and set off back home. I got back just after 4pm. It was 300 miles round trip and even after stopping twice on the way there, twice on the way back and was about 45mins picking it up I still averaged 50mph, even when I wasn't moving :D
Unloaded the van, took it back to the hire place and reassembled it:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=134722)
Since this is a Naomi and Neo Geo hybrid I have decided to call it Neomi :)
Its in pretty good condition to be honest. The only minor points are some rust/flaky paint on the base panel, worn paint on the CP and some general dirt but nothing some TLC and paint won't cure. The plastics are in great condition which is the main thing.
You can see I have swapped the bases over for one from one of my other Naomi's. This is because the cab was originally a Confidential Mission shooter and so the coins were inserted into the gun tower and the original base has no slot or coin bucket/door in the base.
I'm going to keep the base white but add some red stripes/decals to tie it all in together.
The CP was pretty grubby inside. I assume its a mixture of spilt drinks and ash. There was even a match stick in there. There was also £1.40 :)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=134700)
I gave it a good clean with some solvent cleaner and plenty of elbow grease and it has come up nicely:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=134724)
Pic of the back of the cab and the other base:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=134692)
Both cabs have a Sega transformer but they were wired slightly different. As I knew both setups worked with there own cabs the easiest thing to do was to swap the PSU's and power plates.
I also cleaned the back of the chassis plastic and gave the chassis a good clean with compressed air.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=134696)
I put my DC/VGA box in and for 'testing' purposes and had a quick game of Confidential Mission to check every thing is working ok. :)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=134694)
I have cut a new CP for the cab:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=134702)
Somehow I managed to get the PL1 button two hole in the wrong position. I must have transferred the hole locations wrong from the CAD drawing to the mill as its 3mm out of position :banghead:
I was going to fix it but I'm not overly keen on the button spacing and its a little too far apart. I imported a image from a Neo Geo CP and scaled the button holes but I didn't actually do a mock up (school boy error!!). I think it will be just as easy to design a new CP with the holes closer together and cut another panel with the holes in the right positions.
I have received the Seimitsu PS 14-K's (well they are actually KN's) and had to try them in the panel :)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=134704)
I have also made some mounting plates to secure the joys to the back of the panels. I just made some plates out of 3mm steel, drilled 5.5mm and couterbored them 10mm by 1.5mm deep. I faced some M5 machine screws so that the head is 1.4mm thick so that they sit in the counterbores. They will then be bonded to the back of the panel. I have shot blasted them on one side ready for painting:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=134706)
Onto the painting.
I made a spray enclosure in my shop just to keep the spray from getting everywhere and stop the wind blowing any crap around:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=134716)
The bezel isn't in too bad condition but I will respray it to match the CP. I was going to paint over the CP but I decided to strip it all back and start from scratch.
I couldn't find any paint stripper that was suitable for plastic but the solvent cleaner I used to clean out the CP base did revome the paint but it was still a very long job. I used it in conjunction with some wipes, 320 grit and a flat headed screw driver for the hard to reach parts. After I has got it all off I gave it a warm soapy bath (much to the GF's delight :D) and gave it a good rub down with 320 grit to key the surface before rinsing it all down and letting it dry.
CP stripped and prepped:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=134720)
I put it on an MDF base with a handle so that I could move it around to spray the sides and back easily.
I took the old CP to Halfords and picked up some Ford Sunburst Red paint wiched seemed to be the best match and red primer too.
Since the primer can only be applied to metal or paint I gave the CP a few thin coats of plastic primer for the metal primer to stick too before slowing building up thin coats of red primer:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=134714)
Since the monitor surround was in pretty good nick I just rubbed/cleaned it down and applied the primer directly to it. I masked off the Naomi logo but I left the grills uncovered as I'm going to spray them white once the painting is complete.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=134712)
That's where I'm up to at the moment. I'm at work this morning but when I get home I am going to wet sand the pieces with 1200 grit and get them painted. Once that's done I will rub that down and apply some lacquer to protect it.
I have never really done any propper spraying before and I'm quite happy with how its turning out so far :)
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Very nice "spray booth" with all the page 3 girls. :cheers: My girlfriend caught a glimpse of the pictures and went "HEY! THAT'S WHY YOU'RE SMILING!?" :D
I bet the cab will look awesome with the fresh paint job, those pretty Seimitsu's and the classy overlay.
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He he, cheers dude :)
I thought I may as well put some of the better pages up ;)
Yeah she should look pretty nice ones she's all done. I am going to respray the leg covers too and I'm thinking of doing them red with a white stripe to match the Neo CP. I'll do a mockup to see what they look like.
I need to get most of the painting done this weekend as I have about a dozen or so marquee holders to make this week and I want to get the painting done whilst the shop is still clean.
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I still have about a million things going on at once. I'm getting a little stressed but its better to be too busy than not busy at all.
I got the primed CP wet sanded and painted. It has come out really nice so far considering my lack of painting experience. I have let it dry and harden for the last few days before I wet sand it again prior to lacquering it.
I didn't have as much luck with the bezel cab front. When I was wet sanding it the primer was coming straight off as I don't think I had keyed it well enough. I should have just removed all of the primer and keyed it properly but I got annoyed with it and started removing all of the paint. It took about 20 mins to remove a tiny section of the paint so I decided to get the big guns out to remove the rest.
I used some Loctite 7200 which is a solvent gasket/seal remover. You have to be careful with this stuff as it will start to eat away at the plastic if you leave it on too long. You just have to spray it on, leave for about 20 seconds or so and then the majority of it will wipe off. I just a scotch pad and some 120 grit emery to remove the more stubborn parts. I also sprayed it with a water bottle as I was going along to wash off the solvent to make sure it wasn't eating away at the plastic. It took me nearly a whole morning to strip it due to all of the nooks and crannys but the end result should be worth it.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=135379)
I then gave it a bath and scrub down with 120 grit to remove any final stubborn bits before giving it the final key with 320 grit all over. I also gave the back etc a good clean with a tooth brush as it was a little grubby. I don't think the GF wants her toothbrush back now :D
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=135375)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=135377)
I let it dry overnight and I primed it yesterday ready for rubbing down and painting today.
I have the new CP cut. It took me three attempts in the end as the first one I had a hole out of position, the second one the endmill picked up some material on the way round and caused some huge burrs. It could have been salvaged but I wanted it to be 100% so I made a third. It cost me £30 in material alone but this last one is spot on.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=135266)
I also got a new pair of Sanwa JLF's that you can see ready to be mounted.
I bought a 4 slot and 6 slot MVS mobo's off ebay. I ideally wanted to put a 6 slot in but I wasn't sure if it would fit. They were ending at the same time so I bought them both. After receiving them it looks like the 6 slot wont quite fit so I will have to make do with the four slot.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=135264)
I also bought a 15k>31k converter to connect the Jamma/MVS to the 31k monitor
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=135262)
I also have a MVS>Jamma adapter on the way from jammaboards.com as the audio wiring on the MVS mobos is slightly different to Jamma.
My friend who designed the CPO for me has also done a marquee for me:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=135451)
I am going to have the white logos cut out and the back piece of the marquee will be 3mm opal acrylic so that the letters should light up by the red LED strip.
I submitted the CPO to arcadestickers.co.uk to get a quote for printing.
There is still crap loads to do but it's getting there slowly :)
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You used her tooth brush? :applaud:
Agreed, that panel does look spot on for NEO-GEO. Can't wait to see that marquee lit up. Hopefully it'll look just as awesome as you've planned.
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Well its kinda her spare one, we both have an ultrasonic one so I yoinked her spare :D
Yeah, I'm hoping that the acrylic should light up nicely. I'll have to see though. If it doesnt then the marquee should still look quite nice :)
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OOh I want that marquee for my candy.... noice
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I'll ask the guy who made it for me if he minds me sharing it along with the CPO, I'm sure he won't. :)
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I'll ask the guy who made it for me if he minds me sharing it along with the CPO, I'm sure he won't. :)
You could probably make some loose NEO-GEO panels and sell them for top dollar along with that artwork. Too bad most NAOMI cabs are 31kHz only.
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I would love to make more but CNC milling them takes far too much time. If I could get them water or laser cut it would be much easier/quicker but it would be too expensive to make the small runs that would be likely to sell.
I spoke to my buddy aryssoR over at arcadotaku.com and he said he didn't mind me posting the artwork files as long as I credited him and posted his email address which is rossyrara(at)googlemail.com
I have attached the files in the [Control Panel ART: Post all of your Control Panel overlays (Designs) here! (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=83312.msg1032392#msg1032392)] thread as I thought that would be the most appropriate place to upload them.
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Some excellent work going on in here Franco, nice one
:afro:
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Howdy bud, I see you made it over to the dark side (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=135581)
Thanks for the comment :)
I picked these up from the post office this morning ;D
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=135582)
I only have a few Neo Geo games when I bought a bundle off ebay a couple of months a go so I thought it would be a good idea to get a couple of good vertical scrolling and horizontal scrolling shooters.
IIRC, the MVS games I have are
Metal Slug
Metal Slug 2
Metal Slug X
Puzzle Bobble
Capcom League Bowling
NAM 1975
Art of Fighting
Samurai Shodown
...as well as those two I just picked up today.
I was planning on installing the 6 slot but as I'm going to use the four I think I will hvae to put four in at a time and rotate them now and again.
I think for a start I'll put Metal Slug, Puzzle Bobble, Strikers 1974 Plus and Samurai Shodown in for a bit of variety.
I'm not a fighters fan at all, hence why I don't have any decent fighters but I thought I may as well put one in incase people want to play one.
I'm hoping to pick up Neo Bomberman too and I'm keeping my eye open for other MVS carts so if any one has any they are looking to part with then let me know :)
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Oh, I forgot to add that I got a price back for the artwork printing from Nigel at arcadestickers.co.uk
He quoted me £23 delivered for the CP and instruction area graphic which I thought was pretty good value! I'm going to go ahead and order it. He said turnaround is about four days so I will let you know what it's like when I receive it :)
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Interesting... I would like to see the result of that...
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Howdy bud, I see you made it over to the dark side (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=135581)
Welcome to the humble dwelling of heavy equipment geekery en masse.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=135581)
I picked these up from the post office this morning ;D
Nice score!
My own NEO-GEO collection is also very small. Not a very impressive system IMHO. But the Slugs are very good for business I think, made for credit feeding.
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Oh, I forgot to add that I got a price back for the artwork printing from Nigel at arcadestickers.co.uk
He quoted me £23 delivered for the CP and instruction area graphic which I thought was pretty good value! I'm going to go ahead and order it. He said turnaround is about four days so I will let you know what it's like when I receive it :)
Great price, I should get off ---my bottom--- and design my own. I hate the Net City CP on mine, besides not even being original to the cab, it's garish orange ::) and matches nothing else really
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I think your panel looks really nice but then again I'm not sure what the rest of your NC looks like. Those dustwashers look great though, know where I can get some of them? :D
I started rubbing down the CP but the primer is coming through a little so I'm going to pick up another can of paint and give it a few more coats. I gave the monitor surround two cans worth and that looks like it should be plenty thick enough.
I let it dry for a day and decided to put some of the parts back in it to see what it will look like.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=135697)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=135693)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=135695)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=135691)
I'm thinking about keeping the panel under the monitor white and also the surround clips too for a little contrast.
I also thought about doing something like this (MS paint skillz ahoy!)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=135699)
I was thinking about painting the grills white and adding a white strip at the top inside the recessed section. I also thought about adding some red stripes to the panel under the monitor and possibly some Neo Geo decals too.
Any thoughts?
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I was thinking about painting the grills white and adding a white strip at the top inside the recessed section. I also thought about adding some red stripes to the panel under the monitor and possibly some Neo Geo decals too.
So this will be a "dedicated" NEO-GEO machine then? You haven't considered painting the bezel black btw? I think the gray looks kinda off against that red. Perhaps white stripes might be a bit too much? You should do some more mockups with the marquee and CPO, I think it's easier to decide then.
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Yeah it's going to be pretty much dedicated Neo apart from some 360/DC tournaments.
I have thought about painting the bezel black or white. I want to get this on location as quick as possible. I do have a spare bezel that I may paint once it is up and running so I'll just use the grey bezel for now.
It's only going to be students playing it so I shouldn't imagine they will care too much what it will look like but I want to do a good job for when it eventually comes back to me or I sell it on etc.
I would love to do some propper mock ups but I don't have the skills. I seem to remember you doing some mock ups for your Xiong-Ba cab. Do you think you could do a mock up for me if I sent you some decent images?
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Do you think you could do a mock up for me if I sent you some decent images?
Sure, send me a PM at AO or something.
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Top man :) I'll get some pics once I can actually move in my shop :dizzy:
Well, I have sold the 'SF4' Naomi. I am delivering it to the guy who bought it this week. This will free up some room so I can work more easily on my main Naomi project.
It will also free up a little cash and some room for my eventual visual pinball table ;D
I have been doing a little work in regards to the volume and degauss controls for the Neomi. Normally both of these are controlled by the pcb in the I/O panel but seeing as I have no JVS setup there is nothing for the panel to plug into. The only controls that I need from the panel are the volume for the Sega amp and the degauss for the monitor.
Thanks to the help from some of the guys over at AO I have managed to get both working.
For the volume control I got a 4k7Ω log pot from Maplins and soldered some wires/terminals onto the ends.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=135936)
Obviously the shaft is about a mile to long so I just hacksawed that off. I cut the end off the wires that came from the amp and wired them to the pot.
I then just drilled a hole for it and mounted it in the panel. I made a white PTFE/stainless knob for it just to tidy it up a bit.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=135938)
You can also see the NO SPST momentary button I added for degauss (the one with the black surround).
I found out that you just need to cut the end off the AMP power connector that plugs into the monitor chassis and wire it to the microswitches terminals.
The mounting enclosure looked a bit grubby so I have shot blasted it and I'm going to paint it appliance white.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=135959)
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I have received the CPO and instruction card graphics from Nigel at arcadestickers.co.uk and they are fantastic. I ordered them on Monday and he said he would try to get them posted out on Friday but he must have posted them on Thursday as I actually got them on Friday. I can't fault his service at all and I would recommend him to anyone.
Since I had the graphics I wanted to get the joystick mounting plates mounted to the CP as I didn't want to damage the CPO once it was applied.
I put the CP onto the top CP mount and traced around the mounting areas with a black sharpie and then offered the mounting plates up to the CP to see if they would fit ok. I found that a couple of them would foul slightly so I had to remove some material so that everything would fit.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=136385)
I masked off the area where the plates will mount and keyed the aluminium with 120grit to give the glue a better surface to stick to.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=136387)
To make sure that the joysticks shafts were mounted concentric to the hole in the CP I made some Nylon bushes to hold the joysticks in position.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=136389)
I then used Araldyte to glue the mounting plates in position:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=136391)
CPO and instruction space graphics applied:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=136399)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=136401)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=136397)
As you can see I have painted the speaker grills and the center panels appliance white.
I also painted the I/O plate:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=136393)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=136395)
I added the coin reject plunger, coin inlet and dummy plug. The cab didn't come with a dummy plug so I made a replacement SS one.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=136411)
I was going to use those LED strips to light the buttons but I had a better idea. I have been trying to come up for a solution to individually light the buttons without getting spotting that you usually get from inserting a LED or two either side of the microswitch. My originall idea was to make a Nylon ring insert with holes drilled at 15 degrees to aim the LEDs at the center of the plunger rather than straight up which gives you the spotting effect:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=136418)
I did make the inserts and it did work but it was going to be a PITA to mount the LEDs in each button so I came up with another idea.
I thought about making some tubes which would encase the button and microswitch etc. The plan then is to use Piranha/Superflux LEDs mounted in the bottom of the tubes to light the whole button from below.
These are the Piranha/Superflux LEDs:
(http://www.timeslight.com/pic/TLLF-18xx%20super%20flux%20LED%20lamp.jpg)
They are rated at a lower MCD rating but they have a much wider viewing angle and so kick out more usefull light for this application.
I made the tubes out of black Nylon 6 and made a drilling jig to drill each button accurately to mount the LEDs inside the buttons:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=136403)
The LEDs sit inside the tubes and the legs stick through the bottom. The tubes have a thread screwcut to match the thread on the buttons: The larger 4mm hole is for the microswitch wires.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=136405)
I have also been working on the hardware mounting in the machines base.
After trying a few different configurations I decided that the best plan was to mount the 4 slot mobo at the front of the base. I made a MDF base for it to sit on and routed out some reliefs that the MDF sits flush and stationary as it is held in place by the original MDF holders although not in the same way.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=136407)
The 4 slot will then mount to the MDF with PCB mounting feet.
I had to remove the original PSU/amp cradle to allow the 4 slot mobo to be positioned where it is so I am relocating the amp to the rear of the base on another piece of MDF. The Jamma PSU and video converter will also be mounted on this section.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=136409)
The video converter isn't in that picture as I have lent it to someone to troubleshoot their monitor.
Still plenty to do but its starting to look half decent now :)
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Looking pretty tight there, can you really switch out the cart pictured with the mobo in place, or do you have to pull the whole mobo out to do that?
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It's not as tight as the six slot was going to be ;D
Yeah you can swap the carts out no problem. there is about four inches or so vertical room now the amp/Sun PSU cradle has been removed.
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Just for you bud ;)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=136426)
The idea of having the MVS mobo on a seperate board was to make it easy to swap the mobo out for Jamma boards, 360 or DC so that the amp and Jamma PSU is still in place. It also made more sense for the 360 & DC to be at the front for swapping games.
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That angle shows everything much clearer. :applaud: Does the red color you've used on the panel surround match the CPO artwork better IRL than it does on the photos? Also, do you plan on more red color on the cab, like some red stripes on the bottom part?
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There is a gradient colour change of the red on the CPO so it matches it closer to the middle than the outside. I needed to get this up and running ASAP so I didn't have time to get colour swatches etc from the printers. I did match the colour as close to the original colour.
Yeah, I bought some plain red vinyl which is matched to the painted colour to do some stripes etc on the base.
I've ordered the correct crimping tool for the AMP UP pins from Japan but I think its going to take a while to get here but luckily one of my friends has posted me his for me to borrow which should be here today. I'm quite looking forward to doing some wiring as I haven't done any for aaages :)
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I then used Araldyte to glue the mounting plates in position:
is this a specific araldyte reference glue ??
how did the gluing process is made.
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Apologies, I spelt it wrong its Araldite. :-[
There is some information about Araldite [here (http://www.silmid.com/araldite/adhesives.htm#AralditeGeneralPurpose)]
I use [Araldite Rapid (http://www.silmid.com/araldite/rapid.htm)] as its what I have at work.
Its a two part adhesive. You squeeze out equal amounts of the resin and the hardener and mix is together for 30 seconds or so. You then just apply it to the surfaces to be joined, put them together and leave to set.
Its quite runny before it starts to set so you want to make sure the pieces are held/supported whilst it starts to dry. The rapid Araldite hardens within about an hour.
If the surfaces that you want to bond are smooth you need to roughen them to give the adhesive a key to stick to.
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thanks for the highlight, I would be affraid that gluing this kind of arts will not resist extensive usage (I mean playing of course).
aren't you affraid that it will be to much stress on the fixation that may break down the assembly ?
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Your welcome zorg.
I don't have any concerns with the strength of the bond. The glue is very strong and the joysticks would be more likely to fail before the plates come unstuck through impact or compression.
Quick update whilst I'm here.
Thanks to a lot of help of from the guys over at arcadeotaku I have the Jamma/MVS complete.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=136651)
I used 12 core 16/0.2 cable for the joystick/button signal wires, single core 16/0.2 for the other signal wires and 24/0.2 single core for the power ground cables.
The player one/two D buttons are connected pins to Ac and 25 and the game select button (select down) is connected to Ad.
The other end of the 12 core cable is connected to the AMP plug receptacles which will be housed in the I/O plate under the CP.
To crimp the pins on I borrowed a Hozan P-706 crimp tool from a friend. I have one on order from akihabarashop but I borrowed one as I need to get this wired up fast.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=136653)
The wires are stripped, inserted into the pins and then crimped on the wire and on the cable. The pins then click into position in the AMP plugs.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=136655)
I have wired some of these up before just using a pair of pliers to crimp the pins but using this tool makes them much stronger and neater. As always, the right tool for the job....
I'm currently wiring up the CP/LEDs and hope to have that finished tonight. I'm also hoping to get the marquee graphic printed over the next couple of days.
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I always solder those amp pins...
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Crimp and solder or just solder?
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Well she is finished and in the bar now :)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=141381)
I had been meaning to update the thread as I went along but I have been that busy that I haven't had time. I do have some more pictures and build info if anyone is interested.
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Hell yeah! :pics
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:cheers:
In that picture, the bezel really looks washed out as your cab is red. A black or white repaint in the future? ;)
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now thats sexy.
looks real good man. all that work paid off.
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Damn Franco - you have a really nice basement(?) area. Lots and lots of room. I'm jealous! Oh yeah, the cab turned out awesome too. :cheers:
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:cheers:
In that picture, the bezel really looks washed out as your cab is red. A black or white repaint in the future? ;)
Yeah I completely agree, I just wanted to get the damn thing in! I think when I get it back I will chop it down, paint the bezel white, strip the legs and paint them red with white Neo Geo decals or vice versa and strip and repaint a couple of other parts. I'll probably also install the spare 15khz monitor I bought of Grant from IC09.
I'm picking up a minty red base off fire-bug soon which I will swap for this one. I also bought the 'SF4' Naomi back of Red5 so I can put the white base back on that.
now thats sexy.
looks real good man. all that work paid off.
Cheers mate. Yeah it did take a little more work/time than I anticipated but I got there in the end :)
Damn Franco - you have a really nice basement(?) area. Lots and lots of room. I'm jealous! Oh yeah, the cab turned out awesome too. :cheers:
Ha ha! :laugh2:
I wish buddy, I really really wish it was mine. It's actually on site at a University bar. :)
It did feel really strange leaving it there.
Hell yeah! :pics
Ok sir....
I think I left off at the start of the CP wiring.
As I said before I was using the nylon button surrounds to test an idea I had for button lighting for one of my other Naomi projects. I didn't need to use them on this project as I could have just used some LED strips to light the buttons as they don't need to be independently lit but I wanted to try them out before using them for real.
As the micros were going to be inside the button surrounds I needed to solder wires onto the micros so I could thread them through the hole once the surround had been screwed onto the holder:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=138074)
I put some aluminium foil inside the surrounds to reflect any light from the wide angle LEDs to the buttons:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=138078)
I then mounted the buttons/surrounds and added quick disconnects purely to help with the rest of the wiring:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=138076)
The rest of the CP was then wired. The blue wire is the ground loop and the wires from the control loom will connect to the other disconnects.
The single colour superflux LEDs have four legs. Two are anodes and two are cathodes. I wired them in parallel for 5v and added disconnects at the far side for power connection. The bunch of disconnects you can see are from the JLF harness.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=138027)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=138029)
I used liquid electrical tape to insulate the bare LED legs.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=138070)
I punched out some coloured vinyl discs to put in the buttons to make the colours more solid and to block the light shining through the plunger.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=138072)
One very blurry LED picture:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=139917)
I made some control harnesses to connect the CP to the AMP connectors in the IO plate:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=138546)
I wired up all of the components in the base:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=138062)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=138066)
The transformer on the left powers the monitor, strip light and Sega amp. The Jamma PSU next to it powers the Jamma/MVS harness, video converter, credit board and CP lighting.
The R,G,B, sync and ground from the Jamma harness connect to the CGA>VGA video converter which is then connected to the monitor with a VGA cable. The audio is taken from the Jamma harness/MVS PCB and connected to the Sega amp via a RCA line level converter cable so that it can be controlled by the volume pot in the IO panel in the CP.
I had a bit of a game trying to get the select game button to work. I eventually found out that there is no link across the MVS>Jamma PCB as they expect you to use the optional crazily priced cables that connect to the headers. As I only wanted to use this extra button I just soldered a wire over the board to link the contacts:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=138123)
The board was setup so that player one button one and player two button one also worked as a game select button but I did not want them to do that so I cut the traces on the PCB.
You can also see the MB header cable I used to take the audio from the board rather than use the expensive cable you can buy.
I also had an issue with the video jumping just before the cab was about to go on location. After trying various things it was apparent the video converter was faulty so I had to buy a new one. The monitor chassis also decided to start sparking at the flyback the day before it went in but luckily I had a complete spare monitor I could put in.
I had a friend of mine design the marquee for me and I had it printed at a local sign place.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=141503)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=141501)
He did me a couple of copies of it and also printed a load of the start button insert graphics for me.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=138060)
And thats it really I think. Here's a couple of finished pictures together:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=136397)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=136399)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=136401)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=141381)
I really enjoyed doing this conversion and learnt a hell of a lot about Jamma/MVS wiring etc etc. I couldn't have done a lot of it without some help from the guys here and at Arcade Otaku so I am truly gratefull to you all :cheers:
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I used a regular jamma harness and relabeled it by printing out MVS harness labels and attached them with some double sided tape.
Labels here ---> http://www.hardmvs.com/manuals/JammaLabels.zip (http://www.hardmvs.com/manuals/JammaLabels.zip)
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Yeah I saw them. I kept meaning to print them off but I never got round to it.
I wanted to keep the harness as Jamma so that I can just unplug the adapter and plug in a Jamma board.
To be honest the MVS>Jamma adapter is a waste of money for what it is. If I had known then what I know now and had to do something similar I would have made my own adapter from a edge connector and fingerboard.
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Love the way you've lit up the buttons! :applaud:
Every other time I've seen those buttons modded the light is uneven and there's always a brightly lit spot directly under the LED. Very clever idea.
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Yeah the buttons look amazing. ;D
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Thanks, that was the idea Kop :)
They do look good for this application, however they are not perfect. I have some plans for buttons for my main Naomi project that will involve some heavy modding to achieve what I'm thinking of but they should turn out pretty nice. I'll let you know how I get on with them once they are in progress.
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I have some plans for buttons for my main Naomi project that will involve some heavy modding to achieve what I'm thinking of but they should turn out pretty nice. I'll let you know how I get on with them once they are in progress.
Lit only when pressed?
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I'm hoping to hook ond up with some Seimitsu versions of his Happ halo button mod. I said I would post some pictures/info so here goes.
I am going to use these on one of my cabs but ond is definitely going to get there before me so I thought I had better get cracking :)
The happ buttons are fairly easy to mod once you have the translucent disc in as you can just bang a LED in the middle of the button and it will light the disc evenly.
The Jap buttons however are a different kettle of fish as there is no space to fit a LED like you can in the Happ buttons. You can put LEDs in the side of the buttons but you just end up with an nasty spotting effect IMO.
My first thought was to insert a translucent disc into the button and also mount some LEDs inside the button at an angle so that they light the button without the spotting effect.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144487)
I did made some nylon LED holders (the black part in that drawing) to hold the LEDs but there was just not going to be enough room to hold and wire the buttons, especially as I want to use RGB LEDs.
I abandoned the idea for a while and decided to try another effect. My next plan when working on my Neo Geo Naomi was to use the translucent Seimitsu PS-14-KN's:
(http://www.arcadeshop.de/images/thumbs_gr/arcade-pb-ps14kn-red.jpg)
I made some black nylon tubes with a matching button thread (M30x1.5mm or something IIRC, I know it wasn't a standard pitch) to house some Piranha/Superflux LEDs:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=136403)
The wide angle LEDs were mounted in the bottom and shone though the translucent button to light it up:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=139917)
While this looked ok there was a couple of problems. Firstly the buttons ended up not being fully lit because of the large microswitch in the PS-14-KNs. They also did not have the more subtle Halo effect that I wanted as they were translucent buttons rather than opaque and there was no disc inside them that could be lit to give the halo affect.
So after a little more thinking on and off I decided to create a button with a opaque shell, a clear bottom, a smaller microswitch to allow more light through and a translucent disc inserted into the top of the button that could be lit.
To do this I needed to use two buttons to make one.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144489)
At the top is the older style PS-14K snap in buttons and the bottom is the PS-14-GN which is the opaque version of the PS-14-KNs I had used previously.
The major differences between them (apart from the fact that one is a screw in and one is a snap in) is the size of the microswitch and the mating inner plunger.
I needed to mount the smaller PS-14D microswitch in a transparent disc, remove the bottom of the PS-14-GN and stick the disc to the bottom.
I just held the button in a lathe and skimmed off the bottom:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144503)
My phone died on me at this point so I couldn't get anymore pictures at the time, just imagine it is now without a bottom.
I then made a turned, drilled and slotted a template and then used that to template route some 2mm acrylic to create a new bottom.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144499)
The template is on the left. The disc on the middle is how the router cuts it. The 1/4" bit leaves a 1/8" radius in the bottom which then needs to be filed out so the micro will fit.
Finished bottom with micro in:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144501)
I turned a smaller template and used that to route an insert for the button from translucent 3mm acrylic.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144495)
As this was going to sit in the top of the button I needed to remove 3mm from the top of the inner plunger. To do this I made a split bush out of nylon and then held that in a chuck and skimmed 3mm off in a lathe.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144491)
The finished X-Wing (:P) plunger and a stock one next to it.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144493)
Pic of the plunger and insert in the plunger cap:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144497)
I then glued the bottom section onto the button. You can see how much light can get through:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144505)
This time I decided to use four 5mm LEDs as the Superflux LEDs I used before were not bright enough and the standard 5mm RGBs will be much easier to wire.
I made another drill jig to drill the buttons. The center hole is for the micro wires.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144507)
I then wired up some LEDs. I just used some blue ones I have as I don't have any RGBs left.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144511)
I also punched out a piece of red vinyl using a hardened steel punch I made and inserted it into the plunger cap.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144509)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144513)
And the final lit pictures:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144515)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144517)
I couldn't be happier with the results, its exactly what I was after. It will be a lot of work to do the 12 buttons for my (eventual!) project but I think its worth it and its damned good fun too :)
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Very nice! I think you've nailed it Franco. I understand the thinking behind your approach too. Smaller switch, transparent switch bottom, translucent insert in the plunger top capped with something opaque. It is a fair bit more effort than for the Happs, but the even effect is achievable. I like it. Damn, does this mean I have to get cracking on that artwork? J/K I'm looking forward to doing more of that.
:cheers: man and thanks for sharing your amazing innovation.
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Those buttons... :notworthy:
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Those buttons...
:notworthy: :notworthy:
Ya FrancoB and Ond make you realize that despite what you/me/us may have learned to date there is a whole new level that many of us will never get to.
:cheers:
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Just awesome. :applaud:
As close to perfection as you're ever going to get lighting a Seimitsu button. Looks so good!
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WOW!
Why don´t I have the patience to make stuff like this... :banghead:
Great work I like :applaud:
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Very nice! I think you've nailed it Franco. I understand the thinking behind your approach too. Smaller switch, transparent switch bottom, translucent insert in the plunger top capped with something opaque. It is a fair bit more effort than for the Happs, but the even effect is achievable. I like it. Damn, does this mean I have to get cracking on that artwork? J/K I'm looking forward to doing more of that.
:cheers: man and thanks for sharing your amazing innovation.
Got it in one buddy :)
I wouldn't exactly call it an amazing innovation but I am happy with the results. I have you to thank for the inspiration anyway :cheers:
No rush for the artwork, I still have a bit of a backlog of work to get through before I can get to work on my main Naomi project but I'm really looking forward to it. I have some nice ideas for it that I want to try out.
@ everyone else:
Thanks for the kind words.
Its a shame that you have to sacrifice two buttons to make one. You can readily buy the smaller PS-14D microswitch but AFAIK you cannot buy the longer inner plunger on its own.
What makes it worse is that the only button I have seen these plungers in are the PS-14K that I used and they are now discontinued. I have managed to secure the remaining stock of them from one vendor though so I have enough for a couple projects worth of buttons.
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I love all the metalwork and custom buttons. I can't believe I missed this thread last year. :(
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Uhhhhhhhhhhhh, very nice! Any chance you will be making a few extra for sale?
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Not unless you want to spend crazy money.
You need two buttons to make one and Seimitsu buttons are not exactly cheap. The KN's are about £2.50 each. The K's that you need to steal the plunger and micro from were about the same price but you cannot buy them anymore as they are discontinued and they are the only button I know with the long plunger that you need.
Luckily I managed to secure the remaining stock of Ks from arcadeshop.de :)
Then you have the price of the black Nylon, cost of machining that, cost of machining the other parts, assembly, LEDs etc.
Basically you would be looking at about £20 per button provided you wanted 6+
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wow, too rich for my blood for a button....but regardless of price they are a work of art.......... :applaud:
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I'm now working on my main Naomi project.
My main aim for this project is to be able to run all of my games though my cabinet. To do this I need to be able to support Naomi Carts, Jamma PCBs, MVS Carts as well as being able to play Xbox360, Dreamcast, Saturn, MAME etc.
Seeing as there is a lot of hardware to deal with and that there is no chance of fitting it all in the cabinet I have decided to only have arcade hardware in the cabinet and then have an I/O board on the rear of the cabinet to interface the consoles/PC etc.
This is the inside of the cabinet originally:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Naomi%20SD/stockone.jpg)
You can see the transformer in the left hand corner, Naomi mobo in the middle and then the Sun ATX PSU and Sega amp on the cradle above.
As you can see there isn't actually a lot of space to pay with in the first place but I would also like to be able to run Jamma PCBs and MVS carts in the machine.
I am plannig on arranging the components like this:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Naomi%20SD/stock1.jpg)
I'm going to remove the cradle and move the Sun ATX PSU and Sega amp to the rear of my cabinet to give some extra height to play so I can build a two stage tier for the Naomi mobo and Jamma PCBs to sit on.
I'm going to bring the transformer forward a little so that I can mount the MVS one slot behind that.
The Naomi is wired to the JVS standard and to be able to play Jamma games I need to use a converter and so I bought a Namco Jamma>JVS convertor. The 1 slot MVS mobo is also Jamma wired and so will work with the convertor.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Naomi%20SD/JammaJVS.jpg)
I have been working on the two stage tier for the last couple of months on and off and this is what I have come up with:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/PCB%20holder/holder5.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/PCB%20holder/holder1.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/PCB%20holder/holder2.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/PCB%20holder/holder4.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/PCB%20holder/holder3.jpg)
It consists of two tiers of acrylic. Each tier is made three 5mm sheets, one white and two clear. The tiers are supported by some columns made from stainless steel, clear acrylic tube and white Delrin.
The item on the bottom tier is a decased Naomi motherboard. I had to decase the motherboard to reduce the height required between the two tiers so that it would fit in the base of the Naomi. I added a fan in an acrylic enclosure to keep it cool.
The top tier holds PCBs. I made two sliding clamps so that it will hold my smallest and largest boards whilst keeping the Jamma edge at the rear of the holder.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/PCB%20holder/pcbibara.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/PCB%20holder/pcbespgaluda.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/PCB%20holder/pcbtoki.jpg)
The vertical PCB attached to the top tier is a Namco Jamma>JVS adapter. Its mounted vertically due to space constraints.
Here are a couple of photos of the holder in the cab:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/PCB%20holder/Holderincab1.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/PCB%20holder/Holderincab2.jpg)
As you can see I have removed the PSU ATX/amp cradle to allow the holder to fit. The PSU and amp will be relocated to the back of the cabinet on an acrylic base. The transformer will be mounted to an acrylic base and a one slot MVS mobo wil sit behind that.
I mounted a Jamma fingerboard to the bottom of the PCB holder as you can see here:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/PCB%20holder/jammaedge.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/PCB%20holder/fingerboardmounted.jpg)
The fingerboard will be wired to the MVS mobo so that I can swap between Jamma and MVS by moving the edge connector of the Namco adapter to the mounted fingerboard.
The dimensions of the holder were quite tricky to determine as it needed to be tall enough to swap Naomi Carts but short enough to fit in the base. It also needed to be long enough to hold my largest PCBs but not leaving space at the rear of the cabinet for the other components.
It will just accommodate the largest thing I plan on running, CPS2 boards:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/PCB%20holder/cps2incab.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/PCB%20holder/cps2incab2.jpg)
Here are a few other random photos from the build:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/PCB%20holder/columncomponents.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/PCB%20holder/columns.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/PCB%20holder/topparts.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/PCB%20holder/PCBKnob.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/PCB%20holder/topparts2.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/PCB%20holder/bottomsection.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/PCB%20holder/converterholder1.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/PCB%20holder/converterholder2.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/PCB%20holder/fanshroud.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/PCB%20holder/fanshroud2.jpg)
The stainless steel parts were CNC turned. Everything else was hand routed.
There is still ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- loads to do in the project but the PCB holder was quite a large part of it and I can get on with the next parts now :)
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Bloody hell. :applaud: Fantastic!
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I have absolutely nothing of worth to say, but I *NEED* to continue to see the progression of your Godlike work, so I am commenting in your amazing thread so that it appears when I click "Show new replies to your posts.". That is all.
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Bloody hell. :applaud: Fantastic!
^^ what he said.
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OMG Franco! :notworthy: I didn't see this coming at all. I wish I had the skill/tools to do stuff like this myself.
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Hey Franco - I would love to buy 4 of those stainless dustwashers shown earlier in the thread...got any plans for producing them?
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Cheers guys :)
Nothing Godlike here, just too much time being spent on projects without completing them :D
Santoro, I will shoot you a PM Sir.
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:o
(no need for words)
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Looks great Franco! How's Pinky?? >:D
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>:D
She's still coming bud. I have been instructed to get my arcade projects finished first before I finish the juke.
I'm just following orders (http://www.militaryimages.net/forums/images/smilies/salute2.gif) :)